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The Infamous Black Bird Southern Oregon History, Revised


Samuel Colver
Papers written about him by his granddaughter Nellie Rose Jones, much of it copied and edited from previous works. From typescripts held by the University of Oregon Special Collections, Ax 126.
SAMUEL COLVER
(1815--1891)
P I O N E E R   O F   S O U T H E R N   O R E G O N
   

INDIAN AGENT [No, he wasn't]--FIRST IMPORTER OF BLOODED HORSES TO OREGON--BRINGING THEM FROM FRENCH CANADIAN STOCK--FIRST IMPORTER OF MULEY CATTLE TO OREGON--ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY IN OREGON--PUBLIC-SPIRITED MAN--LEADER IN WHATEVER HE UNDERTOOK--MAN OF HIGH MENTAL POWER.
   

NEWSPAPER ACCOUNTS OF THE DEATH OF SAMUEL COLVER

   

ASHLAND TIDINGS, MARCH, 1891
UNCLE SAM COLVER'S FATE
His horse found dead in a swamp.

    The TIDINGS last week last week contained an account of the probable death of Uncle Sam Colver. The following dispatches from Linkville in regard to his sad fate have appeared in the OREGONIAN:
    Linkville, Or., March 20.--Considerable alarm is felt here as to the probable fate of Samuel Colver, who left here on March 13, and has not been heard from since. He was supposed to be in Jackson County, but is not there. Today Indians came in and reported that a horse answering the description of the one Colver rode had been found dead on the trail leading through Wocus Lake, an arm of the Big Klamath. The trail is full of potholes, and the horse was found drowned in one of those. The horse was saddled and had blankets tied on. The Indians were afraid to search further, and came here and reported. The probabilities are that the horse fell in a hole, throwing Colver underneath him and so drowning him. Colver is a pioneer and has been prominent in the politics of the state. A search party has been organized here, and will leave in the morning for the scene.
   

    Linkville, Or., March 21.--The party sent to search for Samuel Colver, supposed to have perished, have not all returned. The horse was found in a pothole. The saddle had been taken off and the horse's head tied to a bush. An overcoat was found near the horse with letters addressed to Colver. There is no doubt of his fate, although no body was found. It is supposed that after tying his horse's head up out of the water Colver started for help, but being crippled by a leg which had been broken some time before, became exhausted and perished.
    Samuel Colver was born in Ohio, and at the time of his death was about 77 years old. He moved to Texas in early days, was in the war between the Texans and Mexicans, and came to Oregon among the early settlers. He settled on a claim where the town of Phoenix now stands, and was the first importer of blooded horses to Oregon, bringing them from French-Canadian stock. He was one of the first Republicans and prominent in the early history of that party. Later he joined the prohibition movement and stumped the state for prohibition in 1897. He was a man of high mental power, though of late years his faculties were somewhat impaired.
    General John A. Miller says he came through Rogue River Valley in June, 1852, and found Mr. Colver on a claim where Phoenix now is. He was then a well-to-do, kind-hearted, hospitable, public-spirited man. At the first Republican meeting I remember, held at Jacksonville, he was one of the leaders, and he was always a leader in what he undertook.
   

THE MYSTERY SOLVED.
    The remains of Uncle Sam Colver were accidentally found by Charles Rolfe last Saturday evening. They were lying on the west shore of Big Klamath Lake, near what is known as Coon Point, in the Pelican Bay country. Mr. Colver undoubtedly came to his death by drowning. After the horse had fallen in the bog-hole, near Howard Bay, he took the saddle off and started on foot to the place of his destination, the Spencer ranch. Being crippled at the time, he left the rough mountain road and went on the ice on the lake. After having traveled seven or eight miles in this way, he would reach a portion of the lake in which there are many hot springs, hence thin ice and holes. It being dark, he probably fell into some one of them. When the ice broke up the winds carried the body to where it was found. Papers on his person positively identified Colver. Besides, his left foot was crippled and done up in rags, while his skull bore the pistol marks received at the hands of ruffians in Idaho some years ago.
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    The late Professor J. B. Horner of Oregon State College, writing for the CORVALLIS GAZETTE TIMES, March 25, 1927, says:
    "The late Samuel Colver was one of the first to move toward the formation of a republican party, in Oregon, the other three members being T. W. Davenport, John Davenport and Orange Jacobs. The meeting was held in May, 1856, at the Lindley schoolhouse in Eden precinct, Jackson County, and like the Republican Party that arose from the ashes of the old Whig organization, Phoenix arose from the ashes of the old voting place in Eden precinct. (Bancroft's History)
    "One of the resolutions adopted at the Phoenix meeting was, 'Freedom is national and slavery is sectional.' This with some other resolutions of the meeting antedated similar declarations made at Philadelphia.
    "Largely as the outgrowth of this meeting, Paul Crandall, O. Jacobs, T. W. Davenport, Rice Dunbar and E. N. Cook, on October 11, 1856, effected at Silverton the first Republican organization in the Willamette Valley. The last three members mentioned were appointed a committee on correspondence for the promotion of the party; and all the leaders in that meeting became noted in the history of the dominant political party of Oregon."
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    The Morning Oregonian of March 15 (year not given) says:
    "General Canby in 1873 spent the last night in Jackson County at the Samuel Colver houses when he left here to make peace with the Modoc Indians and was killed, having ridden a horse borrowed from the Colvers." [Reprinted in the Sunday Oregonian of March 17, 1929, page 16]
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    The late Honorable O. A. Stearns, who lived and died at his home, 78 Pine Street, Ashland, Oregon, was for more than forty years a resident of Klamath County. During most of this time he was closely associated with Samuel Colver and has left some interesting notes concerning the life of this well and widely known pioneer.
    Most of the facts in the following pages are taken from the notes of Mr. Stearns, who wrote the introductory paragraphs which follow:
    "It is usual, as well as eminently fitting and proper, that the passing of a citizen of local prominence should receive a public notice commensurate with that person's prominence and notoriety in the community in which he or she had spent a larger part of their lives. In the passing of Samuel Colver, more than thirty years ago, there was a very noticeable lack of the usual biographical notice of his life which was certainly due to so noted, though eccentric, a character. A man of such unquestioned ability and marked public service to the pioneers of Rogue River Valley deserved better of his compatriots than the brief announcement of his tragic death, which was the extent of his public eulogy.
    "After this long silence, hoping for a proper memorial notice and public acknowledgment of the life and services of a citizen who contributed no small sum to the safety and welfare of the early pioneers of Rogue River Valley to be preserved, the writer will, in a crude and modest way, briefly sketch the life and public services of the deceased, and thereby pay a merited though belated tribute to one whose public and private life was devoted in large measure to the betterment of pioneer conditions and the comfort and happiness of his fellows, as also to recall many incidents so typical of this talented and many-sided character.
    "Samuel Colver was a native of Ohio, born September 10, 1815, near Irwin, Union County, and attended the common schools of that state and attaining some prominence as a debater, his name is found in at least one Ohio state history, in connection with his skill in this field. In his early teens he, in company with a younger brother, Hiram, was sent to a well-known college to complete his education (Plymouth, Indiana).
    "Here he found the strict orthodox so distasteful to him that he was often in verbal conflict with his teachers, and his rhyming witticisms and caustic criticisms soon brought him into open conflict with the faculty until finally, he was publicly reprimanded and given his choice of publicly apologizing or leaving the college. He chose the latter course, which terminated his scholastic career.
    "About that time the state of Texas was attempting to throw off the yoke of Mexico, and young Colver went to that new field where there was abundant room for adventurous spirits, and no restrictions by narrow orthodox teachers.
    "Young Colver joined the Texan army under the banner of Sam Houston, and served as Texas Ranger until after the sanguinary battle of San Jacinto, which established Texan independence. After the independence of the Lone Star State was established, Colver served under the flag on the frontier as scout and trader with the Indians, sometimes in conflict with hostile tribes and in peril of his life. In one adventure he was forced to cross a wide extent of country occupied by a hostile tribe of Indians, and his only method of travel was on foot and by night. The cactus and other thorny shrubs soon tore his clothes to shreds and he had to clothe himself entirely with the untanned skins of wild animals and eat of their unsalted flesh for days at a time until he reached a settled portion of the country.
    "In 1838, Colver was granted 640 acres of and for his services in this war. This land is the present site of Lampasas Springs, Texas.
    "Samuel Colver's next adventure was in his native state, which he canvassed pretty thoroughly as public lecturer on the then newly discovered science of Mesmerism. He had as a subject a remarkable character by the name of Buchanan, whose feats of mind reading and other stunts while under the power of the mesmerist were truly wonderful, and at that time unaccountable.
    "Soon after the discovery of gold and the opening up of the Oregon country to settlement under the liberal donation land law the Colver brothers, Sam and Hiram, together with their families and many relatives undertook the long and perilous journey across the plains by way of the Old Oregon Trail to the Willamette Valley, at that time the only well-known part of Oregon Territory.
    "They first came to the Waldo Hills east of Salem, where the Davenports and others of their kin were located. Samuel filed on a claim where the present city of Eugene is located, but soon after the discovery of gold on Jackson Creek and the consequent settlement of, or desirability of the Rogue River Valley for farming purposes, both Colvers proceeded to that valley and Samuel abandoned the Eugene claim. Neither of the brothers seemed to have any desire to seek their fortunes in the gold fields, but rather to avail themselves of the liberal offerings of land claims.
    "They both took up a section of land along Bear Creek in the richest and most picturesque section of the valley, and some eight or ten miles from the site of the gold discovery (Jacksonville), where a rough camp of tents and log cabins was being erected as the nucleus of a considerable town, and for years the county seat of Jackson County.
    "The land claim of Samuel Colver was of less value agriculturally than that of the younger brother, Hiram, as it was more broken and timbered; but at the same time it was more picturesque, having a really notable butte on the southwest corner standing some two hundred feet above the surrounding lands, about equal distance from the spurs of the Siskiyou Mountains that formed the east and west borders of the valley.
    "There had been more or less discontent among the Indians of the Rogue River Valley since the advent of the first white trappers several years before, and the opening up of the Southern Oregon trail in 1846, after which an increasing number of emigrants passed through the country either going north to the Umpqua and Willamette valleys or south to the gold fields of California caused the Indians to become more jealous of the incursions of the palefaces, and when the miners began to flock into the country and white people began to settle upon their lands, there were frequent clashes between whites and Indians, resulting in killings of many innocent persons as well as the destruction of property until a state of open warfare existed in the early part of 1853, when a treaty was made with the Indians. A company of U.S. regulars stationed at Table Rock and Samuel Culver, who had been appointed Indian Agent by Superintendent Joel Palmer, was in charge of the Rogue River Indians. [Samuel H. Culver was appointed Indian Agent, not Samuel Colver.] In the treaty made by Joe Lane and others with the Rogue River Indians at Table Rock on September 10, 1853 as recorded in Volume 1, page 399 Gaston's Centennial History of Oregon, the following names appear as those of the party of the whites who visited the Indians in their encampment under the cliffs of Table Rock, at the invitation of Chief John. They were:
    "Gen. Joseph Lane; Joel Palmer, Supt. of Indian Affairs; Samuel H. Culver, Indian Agent; Capt. A. J. Smith, 1st Dragoons; Capt. L. Mosher, Adjt.; Col. John E. Ross; Capt. J. W. Nesmith; Lieut. A. V. Kautz; R. B. Metcalfe; J. D. Mason & T. T. Tierney. Eleven white men and 700 Indians.
    "This treaty was observed by the Rogue River Indians and whites until the fall of 1855, when the Indians broke it by killing and robbing freighters on the Siskiyou Mountains, which precipitated the war of 1855-56.
    "The settlers in most parts of the valley had arranged their houses for defense in case of attack, but many of them left their homes and concentrated at different points in the valley where numbers of them could most easily collect in emergencies to assist each other. One of these points was the Samuel Colver residence, where quite a village had commenced, there being a small sawmill running, a grist mill under construction, and a large blockhouse was built by Colver to serve as a defensive point for settlers to rally in case of attack.
    "Samuel Colver was an athlete, and was always an outdoor man. He was very hospitable, and his house was open to strangers. His wife, Aunt Huldah, as she was familiarly called, was one of the most generous and kind-hearted women that ever lived, a fine cook and housekeeper, a very domestic and home-loving woman, while Sam Colver, or Uncle Sam, as he was usually called, cared little for home life and seemed to prefer the out of doors. His love for horses, dogs and all animals was a distinguishing peculiarity of his.
    "Colver was a good debater and always ready to express his opinion on any subject, was an early abolitionist, an advocate of woman's rights and a prohibitionist of the most pronounced type, and ready to defend his beliefs at all times and against all comers. Though active in politics, he was never an office seeker. While he was a pronounced agnostic, Aunt Huldah was decidedly religious, and her house was a favorite haven for preachers, and seemingly without protest from Uncle Sam.
    "Another peculiarity of Uncle Sam's was his habit of composing some rhymes which he would delight in singing (to his own music) or reciting before a crowd. Some of his compositions were very fine, both in sentiment and in rhyme. He used to correspond with some of the leaders of the Equal Suffrage Society, and I have heard him recite some of his caustic verses in connection with this movement.
    "There was one song I have heard him sing that he composed for the occasion of a large public gathering in California, I think, in which the demand for a transcontinental railroad was urged. The music was supplied by a young lady in the audience, and it was certainly worthy of the occasion and awakened great enthusiasm. It is a shame that this composition has not been preserved. I can recall only a portion of the refrain, which was given as answer to a question propounded in the several stanzas of the song as to what the spirits of the dead demanded of the living as recompense for the hardships and sufferings of the pioneers:
            'Tis the voice of the Immigrant, dead
            Comes floating o'er the main
            And asks for a road across--
            For a railroad across the plain.
  [The poem was printed in the Oregon Statesman in 1851; click here.]
    "There were quite a number of stanzas, depicting the horrors of cholera, both among the land emigrants and those coming by water--around the Horn and by way of the Isthmus of Panama, the Indian massacres and the dangers met and overcome, and at the end of each stanza a variation of the above query.
    "Most of Colver's verses were aimed at some common fault or frailty in human nature and exposing the same to ridicule. He had one, a favorite of his, to which he was adding verses from year to year and applying to all manner of tradesmen, politicians, merchants, stockmen and nearly everybody. It always terminated in something like this, a common excuse for doing something known to be wrong, 'For if I don't do it some other rogue will.' He delighted to get into a crowd and sing this song for the diversion it would create.

    "In 1859 or '60, he went back to Texas, sold his land that had been given him as bonus for his services in the war with Mexico, went to Canada and bought a number of very fine French horses, stallions and mares. One horse, a very fine one, cost him $2500.00. He lost this one on the plains coming back to Oregon. He also lost another stallion that had cost him $1000.00. He arrived home in the fall of 1860, with some fifty head of horses and quite a few mules that he had brought from Missouri.
    "Two of the stallions he brought with him were notable animals, having records as light and heavy draft animals from the Montreal Horse Fair, registered as having received first premiums in their respective classes for that year; the light draft animal was of the "Coeur de Leon" or Lion Heart breed, and had a record of traveling on a test a mile in three minutes with a cart and twelve hundred pounds weight. The heavier draft animal was of Norman blood and not calculated for speed. These animals, kept by Colver for several years for breeding purposes, left their impress on the horses of the valley, and no horses were ever brought to the valley that so improved the character of the stock then here, or left such a permanent impress on their character as did those two animals. Colver brought another stallion, a smaller animal of the Blackhawk breed, a fast trotter, which he sold for about $1400.00. He was also an importer of blooded cattle, being the first to bring the muley or hornless cattle to the county.
    "It was soon after his return from Canada that Uncle Sam saw a chance to make money by taking a lot of horses and mules up to the northern mines and running a saddle and pack train from the mines to the nearest source of supply. Leaving a man named John Waggoner in charge of his Phoenix property, he took quite a bunch of animals to the mines in Eastern Oregon (now Idaho and Montana), where he operated a saddle train for the greater part of a year, conveying miners to and from the mines, and sometimes carrying gold out. As there was a very dangerous gang of outlaws infesting that region at that time who, when not running the many gambling dens that were a part of every mining camp were waylaying miners who were going out of the country to invest their gold, or they would swoop down on isolated miners, rob them and their cabins or sluiceboxes, steal horses, and commit all kinds of deviltry.
    "Uncle Sam was knocked down and robbed at one time, the robbers leaving him for dead, but he was only stunned and managed to crawl to safety. He returned home shortly after.
    "Having long realized the necessity for a county road from Rogue River Valley over the mountains to the Klamath country, I (I in this story is always O. A. Stearns) drew up a petition in 1869 to the county court of Jackson County. When I presented the petition, the court debated a long time whether the country across the mountains was of sufficient importance to justify the expense of the survey and location [of a road], and finally agreed that if the petitioners, or two of them, would give $1,000 in bonds to reimburse the county in case of an adverse report of the viewers, they would order the survey. Captain Sprague and myself executed the required bond, and the order was made. At my solicitation the following men were appointed viewers: William Songer, Samuel Colver, O. T. Brown. J. S. Howard was the surveyor, who made the survey which was duly accepted, and a subscription was immediately circulated to raise money to open the road, as no public funds were available. A sum of $600.00 was raised, $400.00 of which was subscribed east of the mountains, where the entire voting population was but thirty. Uncle Sam and my father were the only subscribers to the fund below Ashland.
    "Uncle Sam Colver volunteered to take charge of the work and raised a lot of laborers and commenced early the spring of 1869 at the Songer place on the stage road, and by early fall had it opened clear through to the Klamath Valley. While it could not be expected that such a small sum of money would build near fifty miles of mountain road, it remains a fact that teams of two horses could haul over it a full ton without having to unload and pack up the steep places as formerly. In fact, Uncle Sam Colver did more actual road work with that $600.00 than has ever been done at any time since with ten times that sum. The building of that road was the beginning of the development of the great inland empire consisting of what is now Klamath and Lake counties in Oregon, and the valleys of Surprise, Hot Springs and Big Valley in California, because it was their nearest and only route over which they got their supplies for many years.
    "Samuel Colver was fifth in descent from Edward Colver, the Puritan, who came to America in 1635, was a member of the Massachusetts Bay Colony and a founder of Boston, Dedham and Roxbury, Massachusetts and New London and Mystic, Connecticut.
    "Perhaps the most able and noted of the Colvers was Rev. Nathaniel Colver (1794-1870). He held the pastorate of Tremont Temple, the First Baptist Church of Boston, Massachusetts, 13 years, from 1839 until 1852. This church was at that time the most prominent church in Boston. He was referred to as "the grandest abolitionist in Boston." President John Quincy Adams said of him, "He was the best offhand speaker I have ever heard." Rev. Nathaniel Colver was a first cousin of the subject of this sketch.
    "The Colver family has been well represented in the American Colonial wars, and in the subsequent wars within the United States. More than one hundred soldiers bearing the surname of Colver, and who were direct descendants of Edward Colver, the Puritan, served in the American Revolution, 1775-1783.
    "In 1867, Uncle Sam bought out the interest of his son in what was known for many years as the Stearns ranch in Klamath County. He owned this property at the time of his death.
    "In 1884 his only son was accidentally shot by a neighbor, P. W. Olwell, at Phoenix, Oregon. Mr. Olwell owned and operated the flour mill at Phoenix. One night he heard someone prowling round his home and thought he was being robbed, as he often had considerable sums of money in his safe. He raised a cry for help, and Louie Colver and Dr. George Kahler, who were close neighbors, were the first to reach the Olwell home. Louie Colver carried a lighted lantern, and seeing Mr. Olwell standing at the window, waved his lantern and shouted. Mr. Olwell was so excited that he fired his gun, killing Louie Colver, one of his best friends. This was in March, 1884. In April, 1885, Isabel Colver Rose, weakened by grief over the loss of her only brother, succumbed to the ravages of diphtheria. This double tragedy left Uncle Sam and Aunt Huldah Colver childless. From this date Uncle Sam spent very little time in Rogue River Valley. The loss of his children preyed on his mind, and he seemed to want to be away from scenes that would remind him of them. He had taken a very active part in the Modoc Indian war, had been one of the first property owners in Klamath country, and had many warm friends among the pioneers of this region.
    "In March 1891, while attempting to pay a business visit to one William Spencer, who lived on the west shore of Upper Klamath Lake, Uncle Sam was drowned or frozen to death. His body was not recovered until several months later. His remains are now buried in the Phoenix cemetery beside those of his wife. This cemetery is a part of his donation land claim."
Colver Papers, University of Oregon Special Collections Ax 126.  This document appears in several versions in the papers; one of them is attributed "By his great-grandson Wilbur W. Jones, Oregon State College, August 1939."




A STORY OF THE HISTORIC OLD COLVER HOME AT PHOENIX, JACKSON COUNTY, OREGON, BUILT BY SAMUEL COLVER, JR., IN 1854.
Also some interesting facts concerning the Colver ancestry, tracing the family genealogy back to EDWARD COLVER, the PURITAN, who came to America with Governor Winthrop in 1635.
Compiled by Nellie Rose Jones (Mrs. Wilbur A.), 215 High Street, Klamath Falls, Oregon, a granddaughter of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Colver.
   
    "The early history of our country is one of peril and privation--of patient industry and slow development. Our Fathers, the Pioneers of this region, were earnest, hardy and fearless men, who, in addition to the labors of backwoodsmen, found abundant opportunities for the display of their heroism in guarding their humble firesides from the prowling wolf and stealthy savage. The annals of such a people, and their successors, cannot be devoid of interest to anyone; and should especially be cherished with the liveliest satisfaction by those who are able to claim descent from them."
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    This picture of the Colver House was taken in August, 1921, at Phoenix, Jackson County, Oregon. It is the historic old home built by Grandfather, Samuel Colver, and Grandmother Huldah Callender-Colver, on their donation land claim number 42. This building, which is on the paved Pacific Highway, was completed in 1855, and is, perhaps, one of the most interesting structures erected in Oregon during the pioneer period of the state. It was constructed, primarily, for hotel purposes and also as a refuge for the various families in the settlement during the Indian uprisings. As Grandmother Colver did not take kindly to the idea of presiding over a hostelry, the hotel project was abandoned and the building was never used for that purpose. It furnished protection from the Indians to the neighbors for miles around on several occasions.
    Considering the early day in which it was built, it is an enormous structure, being 50x50 feet in size, built of smoothly hewn logs, 14 inches in thickness. The logs are planed smooth on their outer surface and dovetailed together at the corners. The port holes in the second story are not now visible as the outside has been weatherboarded over. The house is plastered throughout and originally contained four fireplaces. The kitchen fireplace has been removed.
    This historic old home was the old community center. The large second floor, now divided into thirteen good-sized rooms, was, at one and the same time, school room, dance hall, church, lodge and playhouse. Old timers still refer to this old home as the "blockhouse." It is the oldest house standing in Jackson County, Oregon, and one of the most interesting relics from pioneer times. The building is in a state of perfect preservation, and the interior is, today, finished and furnished as well as many of the finest homes in the county.
    This was the home of my grandparents, Uncle Sam and Aunt Huldah Colver, as they were familiarly known, from 1855 until their death. Grandfather Colver died in 1891, and grandmother Colver died in 1907. It was also the home of my great-grandfather, Samuel Colver, Sr., and great-grandmother, Rachael Curry-Colver, from the time they came to Oregon by way of Cape Horn, in the early '50s, until their death in 1866.
    Originally, an upper balcony extended across the entire front of the house connected by an outside stairway with the lower porch. This upper balcony was removed about 1918 in order to give the house a more modern appearance.
    This old home was inherited in 1910 by Lloyd Colver, a grandson of the original owners. In the fall of 1923, Lloyd Colver sold the property to Miss Edith Prettyman, who has converted this old family mansion and historic structure into an inn, known as "The Blue Flower Inn."
    As a mother, who has given the best years of her life and energy to rearing her children, seeing them go forth into the world no longer needing her care, resolves to use her time and inspiration in developing some talent--music--drama--which has been dormant in her being during her busy years, so this old home, after sheltering Grandfather and Grandmother Colver, their parents, children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren for seventy years, is, for the first time, being used for the purpose for which it was originally constructed, a public inn.
    This old home has resounded to the merry frolics of the little children who have grown up within its friendly walls.
    It has witnessed the wedding ceremonies of many of its descendants. The massive dining room has often been a scene of radiance when the long tables were fairly groaning under their weight of good things prepared for the wedding feast. It stood with solemn and impressive dignity when neighbors and pioneer friends from far and near gathered to say their last tribute to dear Grandmother Colver, the first mistress of the old home. Her remains lay in state across the east corner of the north room. Smilax and purple tulle were festooned over the handsome casket. Grandma wore a peaceful smile--her hands were folded across her breast--her
work was done. The neighbors and old pioneer friends, who had so often enjoyed the hospitality for which her home was justly famous, now moved in solemn procession past her remains, paying mute tribute to one they had known so long and loved so well.
    The memories of this old home, with all their joys and sorrows, will ever be treasured by all of us who have lived within its much-loved walls. Each room, to us, has a history--each well-worn path marks "the spot where our fathers have trod."
    Huldah Callender-Colver was born near Mechanicsburg, Champaign County, Ohio, January 1, 1823, married Samuel Colver of Union County, Ohio, 1845. She was the daughter of Samuel Callender and Mary Isham-Callender, who were married in Vermont about 1811, and died in Champaign County, Ohio, 1825, both dying in one week of what was then called "milk sickness." Samuel Callender was a fifer in the Revolutionary War. He served in Capt. Samuel Lewis' company of Col. Thaddeus Crane's regiment of Westchester County (New York) militia (Roster of State Troops printed in: New York State Archives, Vol. I). (Documents Relating to the Colonial History of New York, Vol. 15, p. 337) Samuel Callender also served in the War of 1812 as fifer in Capt. Hezikiah Barnes, Jr.'s Company of Infantry, 4th Regiment (Williams) Vermont Militia (Adjt. Gen. War Dept.)
    Captain John Callender of Boston, Mass,, was a great-uncle of Huldah Callender-Colver. He was Captain in Col. Richard Gridley's (artillery) regiment at the battle of Bunker Hill. He was also in the Battle of Long Island, where he was captured by the British. Later, he was exchanged for a British prisoner, and served as Captain in Col. Crane's (artillery) regiment from Jan. 1, 1777 to Dec. 31, 1780 (Archives Div., Sec. of the Commonwealth, Boston, Mass.).
    The great-grandfather of Huldah Callender-Colver was Eliezer Callender. The records show that Eliezer Callender was a Captain in the Virginia State Navy for a period of three years during the Revolution, and received a grant of 5333⅓ acres of land for his services. Callenders served in the Revolution from nearly every one of the Thirteen Colonies.
    The Ishams are an old and distinguished family of title. The first Mary Isham of whom we have a record married William Randolph of Virginia. She was a direct descendant of Alfred the Great, King of England, and of Henry I, King of France, also of the Scotch Earls of Murray. She and her husband were the progenitors of the Randolphs of America.
    Huldah Callender-Colver had two brothers, John Callender and Elisha Callender, both of Ohio. Shows how the family names were handed down through the generations. Her sisters were Rhoda, Alice and Catherine Callender. Rhoda Callender-Campbell died at Bastrop, Texas, in her ninety-fifth year. Alice Callender-Johnson died at Clinton, Illinois, in her ninety-sixth year. Catherine Callender Humphrey died Sept., 1923, at Bellefontaine, Ohio, in her ninety-ninth year.
    Some record for longevity.
    The following story of the Life of Samuel Colver, Jr., was written by Hon. Orson A. Stearns, 78 Pine Street, Ashland, Ore. Mr. Stearns' acquaintance with Samuel Colver extended over a period of more than forty years.
 

A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LIFE AND CHARACTER OF SAMUEL COLVER.
    It is usual, as well as eminently fitting and proper, that the passing of a citizen of local prominence should receive a public notice commensurate with that person's prominence and notoriety in the community in which he or she had spent the greater part of his life. In the passing of Samuel Colver, more than thirty years ago, there was a very noticeable lack of the usual biographical notice of his life which was certainly due to so noted, though eccentric, a character. A man of such unquestioned ability and marked public service to the pioneers of Rogue River Valley deserved better of his compatriots than the brief announcement of his tragic death, which was the extent of his public eulogy.
    After this long silence, hoping for a proper memorial notice and public acknowledgment of the life and services of a citizen who contributed no small sum to the safety and welfare of the early pioneers of Rogue River Valley to be preserved, the writer will, in a crude and modest way, briefly sketch the life and public services of the deceased, and thereby pay a merited though belated tribute to one whose public and private life was devoted in large measure to the betterment of pioneer conditions and the comfort and happiness of his fellows, as also to recall many incidents so typical of this talented and many-sided character.
    SAMUEL COLVER was a native of Ohio (in 1815), and attended the common schools of that state until in his early teens he, in company with a younger brother, Hiram, was sent to a well-known college of that state to complete his education. Here he found the strict orthodox requirements so distasteful to him that he was often in verbal conflict with his teachers, and his rhyming witticisms and caustic criticisms soon brought him into open conflict with the faculty until, finally, he was publicly reprimanded and given his choice of publicly apologizing or leaving the college. He chose the latter course, which terminated his scholastic career. His brother Hiram graduated from the Plymouth, Indiana, Law School. What Samuel followed for the next few years, the writer is unable to state, but about that time the state of Texas attempted to throw off the yoke of Mexico, and young Colver went to that new field where there was abundant room for adventurous spirits, and no restrictions by narrow orthodox teachers.
    Young Colver joined the Texan army under the banner of Sam Houston, and served as Texas Ranger until after the sanguinary battle of San Jacinto, which established Texan independence. After the independence of the Lone Star State was established Colver served under the flag on the frontier, as scout and trader with the Indians, sometimes in conflict with hostile tribes and in peril of his life. A detailed account of his adventures during that period I never learned, except his account of one adventure, where he was forced to cross a wide extent of country occupied by a hostile tribe of Indians, and his only method of travel was on foot and by night. The cactus and other thorny shrubs soon tore his clothes to shreds
and he had to clothe himself entirely with the untanned skins of wild animals and eat of their unsalted flesh for days at a time, until he reached a settled portion of the country. How many years he followed this wild adventurous life, I never learned.
    His next adventure was in his native state, which he canvassed pretty thoroughly as public lecturer on the then newly discovered science of Mesmerism. He had as a subject a remarkable character by the name of Buchanan, whose feats of mind-reading and other stunts, while under the power of the Mesmerist, were truly
wonderful and, at the time, unaccountable. Shortly after completing his lecture tour, Colver met and married Huldah Callender, and for a few years it is presumed he lived at his father's farm in Ohio.
    Soon after the discovery of gold and the opening up of the Oregon country to settlement under the liberal donation land law, the Colver brothers, Sam and Hiram, together with their families, and many relatives, undertook the long and perilous journey across the Plains by way of the Old Oregon Trail, to the Willamette Valley, at that time the only well-known part of the Oregon Territory. This was in 1850.
    Their first location was in the Waldo Hills east of Salem, where the Davenports, Geers and others of their kindred lived for years. In the fall of 1851 SAMUEL COLVER took up a donation land claim where the town of Phoenix, Jackson County, Oregon, now stands. In the following summer (1852), his brother Hiram came from the Waldo Hills, bringing the families of both, Hiram took up a claim adjoining Samuel's, and like the other of 640 acres of land.
    The land claim of Samuel Colver was of less value agriculturally than that of Hiram, as it was more broken and timbered; but at the same time it was more picturesque, having a really notable butte on the southwest corner standing some 200 feet above the surrounding lands and about equal distance from the spurs of the Siskiyou Mountains that formed the east and west borders of the valley.
    There had been more or less discontent among the Indians of the Rogue River Valley since the advent of the first white trappers several years before, and the opening up of the Southern Oregon trail in 1846, after which an increasing number of immigrants passed through the country either going north to the Umpqua and
Willamette valleys, or south to the gold fields of California, caused the Indians to become more jealous of the incursions of the palefaces, and when the miners began to flock into the country, and white people began to settle upon their lands, there were frequent clashes between whites and Indians, resulting in the killing of many innocent persons as well as the destruction of property, until a state of open warfare existed in the early part of 1853, when a treaty was made with the Indians. A company of U.S. Regulars stationed at Table Rock and Samuel Colver, who had been appointed Indian Agent by Superintendent Joel Palmer, were in charge of the
Rogue River Indians. [No. There is a long-standing confusion between Samuel Colver and the actual Indian agent, Samuel H. Culver. Sam Colver was not an Indian agent.] At what date Colver's appointment was made, or when it terminated, I do not know, but in the treaty made by Joe Lane and others, with the Rogue River Indians at Table Rock, on Sept. 10, 1853, as recorded in Vol. I, page 399 "Gaston's Centennial History of Oregon," the following names appear as those of the party of the whites who visited the Indians in their encampment under the cliffs of Table Rock, at the invitation of Chief John. They were:
    Gen. Joseph Lane; Joel Palmer, Supt. of Indian Affairs; Samuel Culver, Indian Agent; Capt. A. J. Smith, First Dragoons; Capt. L. Mosher, Adjt.; Col. John E. Ross; Capt. J. W. Nesmith; Lieut. A. V. Kautz; R. B. Metcalfe, J. D. Mason, and T. T. Kierney. Eleven white men and 700 Indians.
    This treaty was observed by the Rogue River Indians and the whites until the fall of 1855, when the Indians broke it by killing and robbing freighters on the Siskiyou Mountains, which precipitated the war of 1855-56. I think Colver's authority over the Indians terminated soon after the breaking out of hostilities in 1855. The settlers in most parts of the valley had arranged their houses for defense in case of attack, but many of them left their homes and concentrated in different points in the valley where numbers of them could easily collect in emergencies to assist each other. One of these points was the Samuel Colver residence where quite a village had commenced; there being a sawmill running, a grist mill under construction, and a large blockhouse was built by Colver to serve as a defensive point for settlers to rally in case of attack.
    Samuel Colver was an athlete, and was always an outdoor man. He was very hospitable and his house was open to strangers. His wife, Aunt Huldah, as she was familiarly called, was one of the most generous and kind-hearted women that ever lived, a fine cook and housekeeper, a very domestic and home-loving woman; while Uncle Sam Colver cared little for home life and seemed to prefer the out of doors. His love for horses, dogs and all animals was a distinguishing peculiarity of his.
    Colver was a good debater and always ready to express his opinions on any subject; was an early ABOLITIONIST and advocate of WOMAN'S RIGHTS, and a PROHIBITIONIST of the most pronounced type, and ready to defend his beliefs at all times and against all comers. Though active in politics, he was never an office seeker. While he was a pronounced AGNOSTIC, Aunt Huldah was decidedly religious, and her house was a favorite haven for preachers, and seemingly without protest from Uncle Sam.
    Another peculiarity of Uncle Sam's was his habit of composing rhymes which he would delight in singing, to his own music, or reciting before a crowd. Some of his compositions were very fine, both in sentiment and in rhyme, but none of them, so far as I know, have ever been preserved. He used to correspond with some of the leaders of the Equal Suffrage Society, and I have heard him recite some of his caustic verses in connection with this movement. There was one song I have heard him sing that he composed for the occasion of a large public gathering in California, I think, in which the demand for a transcontinental R.R. was urged. The music was supplied by a young lady in the audience, and it was certainly worthy of the occasion and awakened great enthusiasm. It is a shame that this composition has not been preserved. I can recall only a portion of the refrain, which was given as answer to a question propounded in the several stanzas of the song as to what the spirits of the dead demanded of the living as recompense for the hardships and sufferings of the pioneers. I wish I could recall more of it.
            "'Tis the voice of the Immigrant, dead,
            Comes floating o'er the main,
            And asks for a road across--
            For a railroad o'er the Plain."
  [The poem was printed in the Oregon Statesman in 1851; click here.]
    There were quite a number of stanzas, depicting the horrors of cholera, both among the land immigrants and those coming by water--around the Horn and by way of the Isthmus of Panama, the Indian massacres and the dangers met and overcome, and at the end of each stanza a variation of the above answer.
    Most of Colver's verses were aimed at some common fault or frailty in human nature and exposing the same to ridicule. He had one, a favorite of his, to which he was adding verses from year to year and applying to all manner of tradesmen, politicians, merchants, stockmen and nearly everybody. It always terminated in something like this, a common excuse for doing something known to be wrong; (the cattle thief) "For if I don't do it some other rogue will." He delighted to get into a crowd and sing this song for the diversion it would create.

    Note:
    One of Grandfather Colver's poems, "Death Knocking at the Door," is in the possession of his granddaughter, Mrs. E. L. Taylor, 521 Penn. Ave., Medford, Oregon. Also the tract entitled "Vote as You Pray," which he used while campaigning for St. John, the prohibition candidate for President in the '80s. O1d letters show that a volume of his poems was published in the '70s, but none of his
descendants, so far as I know, have any of these.
    In 1859 or '60, Uncle Sam went back to Texas, sold his land that had been given him as bonus for his services in the war with Mexico, went to Canada and bought a number of very fine French horses, stallions and mares. One horse, a very fine one, cost him $2500.00. He lost this one on the plains coming back to Oregon. He also lost another stallion that had cost him $1000.00. He arrived home in the fall of 1860, with some fifty head of horses and quite a few mules that he had brought from Missouri.
    Two of the stallions he brought with him were notable animals, having records as light and heavy draft animals from the Montreal Horse Fair, registered as having received first premiums in their respective classes for that year. The light draft animal was of the "Coeur de Leon" or Lion Heart breed, and had a record of traveling on a test a mile in three minutes with a cart and 1200 lbs. weight. The heavier draft animal was of Norman blood. These animals were kept by Colver for several years for breeding purposes and their impress on the horses of the valley was very pronounced, and no horses were ever brought to the valley that so improved the character of the stock then here, or left such a permanent impress on their character as did those two animals. Colver brought another stallion, a smaller animal of the Black Hawk breed, a fast trotter, which he sold for about $1400.00. He was also an importer of blooded cattle, being the first to bring the muley or hornless cattle to the county.
    It was soon after his return from Canada that Uncle Sam saw a chance to make money by taking a lot of horses and mules up to the northern mines and running a saddle and pack train from the mines to the nearest source of supply. Leaving a man named John Waggoner in charge of his Phoenix farm, he took quite a bunch of animals to the mines in Eastern Oregon (now Idaho and Montana), where he operated a pack train for the greater part of a year, conveying miners to and from the mines, and sometimes carrying gold out. As there was a very dangerous gang of outlaws infesting that region at that time who, when not running the many gambling dens that infested every mining camp, were waylaying miners who were going out of the country to invest their gold, or they would swoop down on isolated miners, rob them and their cabins or sluiceboxes, steal horses, and commit all kinds of deviltry. Uncle Sam was knocked down and robbed at one time, the robbers leaving him for dead, but he was only stunned and managed to crawl to safety. He returned home shortly after.
    Having long realized the necessity of there being a county road from Rogue River Valley over the mountains to the Klamath country, I [Orson Avery Stearns] drew up a petition in 1869 to be presented to the county court of Jackson County. When I presented the petition, the court debated a long time whether the country across the mountains was of sufficient importance to justify the expense of the survey and location [of a road], and finally agreed that if the petitioners, or two of them would give $1,000 in bonds to reimburse the county in case of an adverse report of the viewers, they would order the survey. Capt. Sprague and myself executed the required bond, and the order was made. At my solicitation the following men were appointed as viewers: William Songer, Samuel Colver, O. T. Brown. J. S. Howard made the survey, which was duly accepted, and a subscription was immediately circulated to raise money to open the road, as no public funds were available. A sum of $600.00 was raised, $400.00 of which was subscribed east of the mountains, where the entire voting population was but thirty. Uncle Sam and my father were the only subscribers to the fund below Ashland, as many people waned the road to go through the Dead Indian country. Uncle Sam Colver volunteered to take charge of the work and raised a lot of laborers and commenced early in the spring of 1869 at the Songer place on the stage road, and by early fall had it opened clear through to the Klamath Valley. While it could not be expected that such a small sum of money would build near fifty miles of mountain road, it remains a fact that teams of two horses could haul over it a full ton without having to unload and pack up the steep places as formerly. In fact, Uncle Sam Colver did more actual road work with that $600.00 than has ever been done at any time since with ten times that sum. The building of that road was the beginning of the development of the great inland empire consisting of what is now Klamath and Lake counties in Oregon, and the valleys of Surprise, Hot Springs and Big Valley in California, because it was their nearest and only route over which they got their supplies for many years.
    In 1867, Uncle Sam bought out the interest of his son in what was known for many years as the Stearns ranch in Klamath County, and kept this property as long as he lived. In 1884 his only son was accidentally shot by a neighbor, P. W. Olwell, at Phoenix, Oregon. Mr. Olwell owned and operated the flour mill at Phoenix (now the Fred Furry property). One night he heard someone prowling around his home and thought he was being robbed, as he often had considerable sums of money in his safe. He raised a cry for help, and Louie Colver and Dr. George Kahler, who were close neighbors, were the first to reach the Olwell home. Louie Colver carried a lantern, and seeing Mr. Olwell standing at the window, waved his lantern and shouted to Olwell not to shoot as this was Colver. Mr. Olwell was so excited that he did not hear or at least did not heed the call and fired, killing Louie Colver, one of his best friends. This was in March, 1884. In April, 1885, Isabel Colver-Rose, Uncle Sam's only daughter, weakened by grief over the loss of her only brother, succumbed to the ravages of diphtheria. This double tragedy left Uncle Sam and Aunt Huldah Colver childless.
    From this date Uncle Sam spent very little time in Rogue River Valley. The loss of his children preyed on his mind, and he seemed to want to be away from scenes that would remind him of them. He had taken a very active part in the Modoc Indian war, had been one of the first property owners in Klamath country, and had many warm friends among the pioneers of this region. In February, 1891, while attempting to pay a business visit to one William Spencer, who lived on the west shore of Upper Klamath Lake, Uncle Sam was drowned or frozen to death. His body was not recovered until several months later. His remains are now interred in the Phoenix cemetery beside those of his wife. This cemetery is a part of his donation land claim.
    Samuel Colver was the son of SAMUEL COLVER, SR., who was born in 1778 at Spencertown, New York, and Rachael Curry-Colver, born 1791 in Virginia or Kentucky. They were married in the Ohio country in 1806, and lived for more than fifty years in Union County, Ohio. This Samuel Colver is said to have carried the
first surveyor's chain taken into the Ohio country. His home was one of the underground stations for slaves who were escaping into Canada during pre-Civil War days. Samuel and Rachael Colver ware the parents of five children, Rachael Colver-Wilson, Sarah Colver-Cronkrite, Abi Colver-Baldwin, Samuel and Hiram. Only the sons came west.
    Samuel Colver Sr., was the son of NATHANIEL COLVER, born 1728, at Litchfield, Connecticut, and RUTH KILBOURN-COLVER, born 1734, at Litchfield.
    (F. L. Colver, of Tenafly, New Jersey, in his book on the Colver-Culver genealogy furnishes the following facts.)
    Nathaniel Colver held the following positions of public trust in his native town: In 1756 he was grand juror; lister in 1755; member of the 5th company in Col. Phineas Lyman's Conn. Regiment in 1755; selectman in 1758; In 1757, he was among the number of grantees of the territory of Spencer township in Albany County, New York. About this time he removed to that locality. In 1767, he was sent with John Savadge, from Albany County (now Columbia County), New York, to England, to lay disputed titles before the English Crown. In 1770, he was First Lieutenant, Colonel John Van Renssalaer‘s Regiment of New York Militia, and was recommended for Captain the same year. In 1772 and 1780 he was appointed Justice of the Peace for Albany County, by the Crown. In 1775, he was one of the Deputies to the Provincial Congress from Albany County. In 1776, he enlisted in the Revolutionary War and served as Ensign in the Albany County Militia. After his service in the Revolution, there is mention of his effective work for the Baptist denomination as a Circuit Elder or Minister. In 1787, he was located at Hubbardton, Vermont. Here Nathaniel passed the remainder of his life, preaching the gospel and farming his land, and there he died after a long and useful career, in 1809. At the age of 24, in 1752, he was married to Ruth Kilbourne, the daughter of Capt. Joseph Kilbourne. She was a descendant of an old and distinguished family of title, the family having been authentically traced back to Sir William De Kilbourne, Lord of the Manor of Kilbourne, Yorkshire, England, 1233, by Payne Kenyon Kilbourne, A.M. of the New England Historic Genealogical Society, in his book upon the Kilbourne family. Nathaniel and Ruth Colver were the parents of twelve children, all of whom were alive in 1809, when Nathaniel made his last will. They were: Susanna, Nathaniel, Elizabeth, Philomela, David, Charles, Ruth,
Joseph, Angelina, Orondatus, Abigail and Samuel.
    Nathaniel Colver was the son of SAMUEL COLVER, born 1691, at Norwich, Connecticut, and his wife Hannah Hibbard, born 1714, at Lebanon, Conn. Nine children were born of this marriage, as follows: Benjamin, Zebulon, Zeruiah, Samuel, Joshua, Ebenezer, Hannah, Jonathan and Nathaniel.
    Samuel Colver removed to Litchfield, Conn,, about 1722. He was one of the original proprietors of this place. In 1723 Samuel assisted in the building of town forts; in 1726, he was a town surveyor; a school trustee in 1731; then a selectman, and in 1744, a sergeant. He was a large land holder; he also held responsible appointments from the Colonial Assembly of Conn. In 1741, he was a member of the General Court at Litchfield. He was a liberal contributor to the church. He died at Litchfield about 1770. From his prominence in the town, he is usually spoken of by the local chroniclers as Samuel Colver of Litchfield. There was still standing, in 1904, the substantial chimney of his Litchfield home, locally known as Samuel Colver's chimney.
    Samuel Colver was the son of EDWARD COLVER, JR., born about 1653, at Pequot, Conn., and his wife, Sarah Backus, born 1663, at Windham, Conn., and the daughter of Lieutenant William and Elisabeth Pratt-Backus. The Edward Colvers had twelve children as follows: Edward, Ephraim, John, Sarah, Edward, Samuel, Hezekiah, Sarah, Daniel, Lydia, Ann and Abigail.
    Edward Colver took up his residence in Norwich, Conn., when quite a young man. He was one of the fifty-one original proprietors of Lebanon, Conn., also of Litchfield. Lieut. Edward Colver at the age of 21 years was appointed to command the Colonial troops at Norwich, and held this post for more than twenty years.
    Edward Colver was the son of EDWARD COLVER, the PURITAN, founder of the family in America. He emigrated to this country with John Winthrop, the younger son of John Winthrop, governor of Mass., and himself governor of Conn. Two of Governor Winthrop's daughters later married two of Edward Colver's son. Edward Colver was a native of the southeast of England and arrived with the party of emigrants brought out by John Winthrop in the autumn of 1635.
    Prior to this the Colvers were French Huguenots, being driven out of France by the religious persecutions under Catherine de Medici, 1585, some going to Holland and some to England.
    Edward Colver was quite a young man in 1635, and belonged to the guild of millwrights and wheelwrights, which latter occupation he followed in America, being sometimes designated in old records as "Edward Colver, wheelwright," He was a member of the Mass. Bay Colony at Boston in 1635. In the first Pequot War, in 1637, he was sent to enlist the help of the Mohicans, with the result that Uncas brought 150 of his warriors to take part in the battle. At daybreak, June 4, 1637, they surprised the Pequots in their stronghold and utterly exterminated them. For this service, Edward Colver received two grants of land, one of 200 acres and another of 400 acres. These grants were situated about four miles north of the scene of the battle, the 200[-acre] lot being near the head of the Mystic River, and the other about two miles further to the northwest. This was called by the Indians "Chepadas," and remained in the family for generations.
    In 1675, when King Phillip made war against the New England Colonies, Edward Colver, then an old man of seventy-five, went with his four sons to fight against the noted Indian chief. They took part in the "Swamp Fight" which occurred near Tiverton, Rhode Island, 1675. Edward Colver was the only soldier engaged in the "Swamp Fight" who had participated in the previous Pequot War. About 1654, he built a water-power grist mill at the head of the cove at New London, as Pequot was afterwards called; the grist mill being in daily use in 1897, and perhaps later. In 1635, about the time of his coming to America, Edward Colver assisted the Winthrops in building a fort at Saybrook, Connecticut, the mouth of the Conn. River.
    Like most of those early pioneers, Edward Colver was a man of many trades, and could turn his hand to whatever the exigencies of the moment called for. The erstwhile millwright and Indian scout was also a farmer. The records of this time speak of Edward as the "wheelwright of Mystic," this trade being followed by his sons and some of their descendants. The last years of Edward Colver were passed in his home on the Groton side of the Mystic River. He died in 1685, full of years and of honor (probably 85 years of age), leaving to his numerous family not only a comfortable patrimony, but the record of a good and useful life, a life which left its characteristics deeply impressed upon the generations which followed. He had married, at Dedham, Mass., 1638, Ann Ellis, daughter of John Ellis. Their marriage is the second entered in the records of the first church of Dedham, Mass. They were the parents of nine children, as follows: John, Joshua, Samuel, Joseph, Gershom, Hannah, Edward and Ephraim.
    Courage and the love of adventure as well as the military spirit have ever been manifest in the Colver character, and these traits have been stimulated by the exceptionally sturdy physical natures with which the members of the family were endowed. The rough experiences and privations which were the lot of the earliest members of the family in the Massachusetts and Connecticut Colonies, long before and during the American Revolution, laid the foundation for the strong constitutions which have descended to the present generations--a most valued heritage.
    Most of the early Colvers were tall, large men, and men capable of much physical endurance. To this characteristic should be added a deeply religious nature which is apparent in the Colver genealogy from the beginning. It was in Edward Colver, the Puritan, when he came to the shores of Mass., in 1635, and has been strongly in evidence in every generation which has followed. This tendency has been especially marked in the many members of the family who have been earnest and successful clergymen, as well as conspicuous leaders in movements for great moral reforms.
    The ten generations of Colvers since the Puritan grandsire, EDWARD COLVER, set foot on New England soil have ever met the test of true courage--courage to seek and pursue adventure to meet the Indian foe, to do battle for the liberties so dear to every American, to help to preserve the union of the States; courage to fight great intellectual conflicts for humanity's sake, to express and to sustain liberal religious views, to stand, if need be, with the minority, at times, in support of just political principles, and to advance educational and needful public measures.
    A creditable degree of intellectual attainments has followed the family history. Numerous members have been noted as public speakers, while most of the Colver men and women have had a part in molding public opinion on the great questions of their day. Perhaps the most noticeable family qualities running through generation after generation have been the enduring energy, the extreme pertinacity of purpose, the ability to meet emergencies, and the power to do things worth while. From the physical side, great vitality seems to be an inherent and surviving quality.
    The Colver family has been well represented in the American Colonial Wars, and in the subsequent wars within the U.S. More than one hundred soldiers bearing the surname of Colver and who were direct descendants of Edward Colver, the Puritan, served in the AMERICAN REVOLUTION (1775-1783).
    (This book on Colver-Culver History was published in 1910.
----
    Perhaps the most able and noted of the Colvers was Reverend Nathaniel Colver (b. 1794 d. 1870). He held the pastorate of TREMONT TEMPLE, the First Free Baptist Church of Boston, Mass., for thirteen years, from 1839 until 1852. This church was, at that time, the most prominent church in Boston. He was referred to 
as "the grandest abolitionist in Boston." President John Quincy Adams said of him, "He was the best off-hand speaker I have ever heard." The story of his life and many activities is most interesting reading. Reverend Nathaniel Colver was a first cousin of Grandfather Colver and Hiram Colver of Phoenix, Oregon.
    The father of Homer Davenport of Silverton, Oregon, the world's greatest cartoonist during the McKinley administration, was also a first cousin of Samuel and Hiram Colver of Phoenix. The Davenports lived in Phoenix for many years. Lucinda Davenport married Judge Orange Jacobs, who was for many years Chief Justice of the Territory of Washington. He taught school at Phoenix many years ago and there met and married his wife.
    Descendants of Samuel and Hiram Colver living today are as follows:
    The Samuel Colvers had two children who reached adult years. One daughter died in Ohio while young. Louie Colver was born in Ohio, in 1847, died at Phoenix, 1884. Isabelle Colver was born at St. Jo, Missouri, 1850, after her parents had left their Ohio home for the great journey across the plains to Oregon. She died in Phoenix, 1885.
    Isabelle Colver married Lewis Albert Rose at Phoenix, Oregon, 1871. They were the parents of four children as follows:
    (Given in the order of their birth)
Mrs. E. L. Taylor (Effie Rose), 521 Penn. Ave., Medford, Oregon.
Mrs. Wilbur A. Jones (Nellie Rose-Newbury), 215 High Street, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Lewis Arthur Rose, Phoenix, Oregon.
Mrs. J. M. Rader (Bertha Rose), Phoenix, Oregon.
    Louie Colver was married in 1874 to Miss Jemima Dollarhide. They ware the parents of four children, as follows:
Mrs. A. S. Furry (Lita Colver), Phoenix, Oregon.
Frank Lloyd Colver
Louie Othello Colver
    The great-grandchildren of the Samuel Colvers are:
Armand Taylor, graduate from O.A.C., now at Salem, Oregon.
Colver Furry, Phoenix, Oregon.
Mrs. L. W. Mehaffey (Maude R. Newbury), graduate from St. Mary's Academy, Medford, Oregon, student at the U. of O. two years, a musician of ability, now living at Antioch, California.
Donald R. Newbury, graduate from U. of O., now a practicing attorney of Medford, Oregon.
Aubrey Furry, student at U. of O. making a reputation as a sweet-voiced baritone singer.
Carl Newbury, graduate from U. of O., now in the Passenger Dept. of the Robert Dollar S.S. Company, Shanghai, China.
Mrs. Neil Franklin (Juanita Furry), Medford, Oregon.
Master Wilbur Jones, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Miss Agnes and Master Harold Colver, Phoenix, Oregon.
Misses Rebecca Jean, Doris Isabelle, Huldah R. Rose and Master Lewis Albert Rose, Phoenix, Oregon.
Also the son of Louie Colver, Jr., at Phoenix, Oregon, Eldred Colver.
    There are five great-grandchildren.
Mrs. E. J. Farlow (Mary Colver), Ashland, Oregon, is daughter of Hiram Colver.
Mrs. W. R. Coleman, Medford, Oregon, and Mrs. George Dunlap, Provolt, Oregon, are granddaughters of Hiram Colver.
Mrs. Elda Farlow-Anderson of Ashland, Oregon is also a granddaughter of Hiram.     Great-grandchildren of Hiram Colver are:
Frank Coleman, Grants Pass, Oregon.
Elbert Coleman, Medford, Oregon.
Buster Coleman, Honolulu, H.I.
Mrs. H. C. Messenger (Mattie Dunlap), Provolt, Oregon.
Ned Dunlap.
Colver Papers, University of Oregon Special Collections Ax 126.
 


ROGUE RIVER VALLEY.
    Rogue River Valley, land of beauty and romance. In this Rogue River Valley, a name synonymous with Jackson County, was discovered the first placer mine in the state of Oregon. [The first placer mines were found in today's Josephine County.] This placer mine was on the banks of Jackson Creek, which flows through the town of Jacksonville. The first bank in the state of Oregon was established in Jacksonville, by C. C. Beekman, in 1856.
    In 1852, Peter Britt established a photograph gallery in Jacksonville, the first of its kind in the state. Jackson County was the birthplace of the Republican Party in Oregon, the first meeting called for this purpose being held at Phoenix, Oregon, May, 1856, in the Lindley schoolhouse, and attended by Samuel Colver, T. W. Davenport. J. W. Davenport, and Orange Jacobs. This meeting is a matter of record in Bancroft's history of Oregon.
    In the palmy days of Jacksonville, the 1850s, twenty-dollar gold pieces piled a foot high were seen on the bars of the numerous saloons of the city. C. C. Beekman,the pioneer banker, estimated that Rogue River Valley has produced $30,000,000 in gold. In 1855 Jackson County was the richest and most populous county in Oregon.
    Jacksonville, in early days, was the music hub of the coast, according to Gene Howard of Oakland, California, who was interviewed in Medford, in 1931. Mr. Howard said, "The number of spinets, grand ancestors of the modern organ, to be found in this locality, are the basis for my opinion. There are five spinets in Medford. I have found but five in the whole state of California, and three of them came from Jacksonville."
    Jacksonville is the oldest town in Southern Oregon, being the site of the first discovery of gold in January, 1852. Two men, Clugage and Pool, made the discovery. In two months 1000 men were filing claims on Jackson Creek, and the boom was on.
    A History of Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry, and Coos Counties in Oregon, published in 1884, by A. G. Walling, has this to say about Rogue River Valley: "The largest of these valleys has long been known as Rogue River Valley--a name which has become as a household word throughout the countries where English is spoken. As usually applied the term designates the whole basin of the Rogue River, a region of not less than 4,000 square miles in area. In Southern Oregon and particularly in Jackson County, the expression is confined to the single valley extending from Table Rock to and above Ashland, and is a misnomer, inasmuch as the Rogue River passes through or by only the lower end of the tract. Bear Creek Valley, as bearing the name of the stream which passes through the middle of its whole length, is the more appropriate designation in every respect. The length of the valley proper is about forty miles, its maximum breadth--being the distance between the summits of the enclosing ranges--is about fifteen miles, and its average width is about eight miles. Thus it is equal in area to 300 square miles, a large part of which is level and of the very finest quality of soil. The tillable land of Bear Creek Valley is probably near one-half of all in the county."
    The southern boundary of Rogue River Valley, or Jackson County, follows the northern boundary of California for forty-eight miles, on a line running due east and west. The eastern boundary, dividing Jackson and Klamath counties, is ninety miles in length, and runs due north and south. The northern boundary meanders along the divide between the Rogue River and the South Umpqua, having a curved course bending southwesterly. The fourth side of the square is the boundary between Josephine and Jackson counties, is fifty-one miles in length, and terminates at a point where Jackson, Josephine, and Siskiyou counties meet. In size Rogue River Valley is nearly twice that of Rhode Island. Between Jenny Creek and Long Prairie, the southeastern point of Jackson County is ninety-eight miles from the Pacific Ocean. The southwestern corner of the county is just fifty and one-half miles from the ocean.
    The Siskiyou Mountains in the southern part of the valley reach the line of perpetual snow, and are higher than any mountains east of the Mississippi River. A few miles west of the road crossing these mountains is Pilot Rock, which rises 1000 feet from the surrounding mountain. It is 500 feet in circumference at its base, and receives its name from the fact that it served as a guide to travelers since prehistoric times, showing them where to cross into Rogue River Valley, the promised land to many a weary traveler.
    On the eastern boundary is majestic Mount Pitt, named for Sir William Pitt, staunch friend of the colonists during their struggle for independence. [The name is derived from the Pit River.] This peak is sometimes called the Mt. Blanc of Southern Oregon, and in more recent years it is called Mt. McLoughlin.
    The principal streams of Rogue River Valley are Big Butte, Little Butte, Antelope, Bear Creek, otherwise called Mary's River and Stuart Creek, and the Applegate, all of which flow into Rogue River. Only two streams in the county that do not empty into Rogue River are Jenny Creek, and Keene's Creek, in the southeastern part, which flow into the Klamath River.
    In December 1851, there were twenty-eight white men in Rogue River Valley. Samuel Colver, my grandfather, was one of the twenty-eight. These men had come to Oregon to take advantage of the liberal donation land claim laws, which gave to each single man 320 acres, and to a married man, 320 acres for himself and an equal amount for his wife. These men had crossed the 2000 miles of plains to find homes and economic security for themselves and their families. They had not been lured to Oregon by gold, as had the mining communities. Ashland, Phoenix, Central Point, Eagle Point, Talent, and other towns were settled by these donation land claim owners.
    The late Hon. O. A. Stearns, who came to Rogue River Valley in 1853, being then ten years of age, has written a story about this early day settlement, from which I quote:
    "Rogue River Valley was first settled in 1851, or rather, that year witnessed the first pioneer settlement. The first dwelling house was erected on Bear Creek, about midway between what is now Central Point and Medford, by A. A. Skinner, who was the earliest Indian Agent appointed to take charge of the Rogue River Indians. This house was occupied in the fall of 1853 when first seen by the writer, by Judges Skinner and Rice, the latter a man with a family of a wife and one daughter. Skinner did not long remain a resident but went to the Willamette Valley and located on or near where the city of Eugene now stands, and Skinner's Butte is a landmark to his memory. [Eugene was founded by Eugene Skinner, not Alonzo A. Skinner.]
    "Several other houses scattered throughout the valley were built that same year, among which was that of Samuel Colver on the site of the present town of Phoenix, just across the road and a little south of the present Colver house, known for many years as the blockhouse. I believe the families of the two Colver brothers remained in the Willamette Valley until 1853, as up to that year there was a very sparse settlement and the facilities for procuring provisions was so limited and prices were so high that it would have been almost impossible to maintain a family.
    "When my father's family came in October, 1853, it was difficult to obtain seed wheat at $10.00 per bushel, and everything else was correspondingly high. My father traded Jacob Wagner a two-horse wagon worth $200.00 for 100 hills of potatoes, and dug them himself. Flour was selling at $33.00 per hundred, and the sacks would stand alone after the flour was emptied out, the flour having been packed across the coast mountains from Scottsburg during the rainy season, uncovered until wet in from one-half to two inches in depth, which hardened into a stiff dough and molded. All kinds of groceries were scarce and very high.
    "The sugar we could get came in fifty-pound mats. It was more like sand, as it was an ashy gray color and full of all kinds of filth. It was made in China, with the usual contempt for cleanliness that was characteristic of the coolie. My mother understood how to refine the sugar, after which it resembled nice, clean, yellow maple sugar, but was reduced in weight fully one-fourth in the process. For coffee parched corn, peas, and sometimes carrots or parsnips were used. Some people used browned bread crumbs, making what was termed crust coffee.
    "The merchants those days carried but little clothing except miner's supplies, and people had to resort to picking up castaway clothing from the streets of Jacksonville, where it was the custom of the miners and gamblers to throw their old or soiled clothing after purchasing new, and a large part of the castaway garments were simply soiled, and after washing nearly good as new. As no children's clothing or footwear were obtainable, nor material for the making of them, the mothers of families were forced to make the clothing for their own and children's wear.
    "My father made lasts for the footwear of all the family, except for himself, and my mother made the shoes for the family, the uppers from castaway boots picked up in the streets of Jacksonville, in front of the stores, the soles made from harness or saddle leathers, picked up here and there. All flour sacks were carefully washed, and used to make underwear, pillowcases, sheets etc.
    "On account of the high price and poor quality of the flour, potatoes and squashes were added to make it go farther, and often the adulterant was a perceptible improvement to the quality of the bread. A few wild plums were to be had along the streams, and elderberries were quite plentiful. They were largely used for sauces, for pies, and were dried for winter use. Some made a very fine wine of them for use in case of sickness.
    "After the harvest of 1854, the amount of flour from outside was largely supplemented by boiled wheat and coarse meal made by grinding wheat or corn in large coffee mills bought for that purpose. As wild game was quite plentiful, and, after the first winter beef was plentiful, and of excellent quality, the fare of the settlers was much improved."
    Mr. Stearns says the first sawmills were built in 1854, one at Ashland, one at Talent and one at Phoenix. He continues: "The early settlers had to split or hew out puncheons for their doors, floors and other parts requiring lumber in their house construction. Most of the early houses were built of round logs, with the bark on; some were hewn on the inside, a very few hewn on both sides. All were chinked by putting in split pieces from shingle or shake bolts, and plastered over with mud. Chimneys and fireplaces were built of rough stone, with split slats and mud for chimneys. Windows were very rare except for a hole cut through the logs, and covered by cloth, usually an empty flour sack. Many of the first cabins had earthen floors. Some had rough slabs from the mills, with the sawed side up, and the edge trimmed to fit with an ax.
    "The first school house in Rogue River Valley was built by the settlers living near what is now Talent. It was of rough logs with cloth-covered windows on two sides. Its floor was of slabs, benches of slabs, with legs of round sticks inserted in auger holes, no backs. The desks were simply rough plank tables. It was erected on the bank of Bear Creek about one-fourth of a mile from the farm of Jacob Wagner (now Talent). There being no school districts yet established, it was started as a subscription school, and the name of Eden given to the school. The first teacher was Miss Mary Hoffman (later Mrs. Vining, mother of Irving Vining), and her school consisted of the children of the surrounding country for several miles in every direction, many of the pupils being older than the teacher. The school books consisted of books brought across the plains, from near a dozen different states, and were as varied as were the pupils. Scarcely any two families had the same series of school books, and the organization of classes was a very difficult matter. Reading, writing, and arithmetic were about all the branches taught.
    "Believe I can give a pretty correct roll of the scholars, who range in age from seven to twenty-three years of age. They were: Welborn Beeson, Joseph, Samuel, John, and Robert Robison; Oscar, Orson and Newell Stearns; Thomas, Martha, and James Reames; Theresa Stearns; Martha, Abi, Donna, Hiram, and Solon Colver; Elizabeth and Nancy Anderson; Calvin Wagner; Mary, Nancy, and Joseph Scott; Mary, Robert, Daniel, and William Gray; Lewellyn Colver, and I am not sure but there were two or three others. Lew Colver was then about seven years old, and rode to school on a little white pony.
    "The teacher was a very good disciplinarian, and, though very pleasant and sociable outside school hours, was quite strict in enforcement of discipline, almost entirely by moral suasion."
    Mr. Stearns gives a list of all the teachers in that school up to 1864, when he enlisted in the army, telling whether in his opinion they were good or bad, and why, and it's all very interesting, but too long to be included in this story.
    Those of you who go over to Jacksonville today to see it for the first time can hardly visualize the glory and excitement that was a part of the old town during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. When the court house was moved from Jacksonville to Medford in 1926, a writer who had grown up in Jacksonville, a native of the place, wrote for the Oregonian a story of the town as she knew it. [The actual move was in 1927.] I quote from her story: "It was inevitable that the county seat would eventually be taken from the little town which is tucked off in a far corner of this large county, and is also five miles from the railroad, and be placed in a more central and populous district.
    "But it is tragic--it is heartbreaking to Jacksonville, which now has only its memories of past grandeur to live on. But such memories.
    "No other town in the state has had such a colorful and romantic past. Jacksonville was not built up slowly and arduously by weary men and women, worn out after a long journey across the plains, as the northern part of Oregon was. In fact, this rich domain was shunned by the first pioneers on account of its surroundings, impassable mountains and its treacherous, cruel, and warlike Indian tribes. It was known as 'the Indian country,' and the few daring white people who tried to pass through it prior to 1850 were killed by the Indians or barely escaped with their lives. In 1851, however, two men, more foolhardy and daring than most, were passing through and discovered gold in the locality where Jacksonville stands today.
    "Those who seek gold forget all hardships and dangers, and as soon as a report of this first gold strike was circulated, men swarmed into the vicinity from all directions, and suddenly a town of thousands of people sprang up where formerly only the Indian held undisputed sway.
    "Tents, cabins, shacks grew up overnight along the creek banks. Adventurers, courtesans, miners, gamblers and pioneers came in over the trails with pack trains following close behind. What is now only a town of less than 500 people at one time boasted of 8,000 or 10,000 population.
    "Millions of dollars were taken from the creek beds and quartz mills nearby. Soon roads were cut through the stubborn mountains and the stagecoach rumbled and jangled through the streets, bringing news and people from the outside world. Saloons, gambling halls and dance halls flourished. A substantial trading post was established, and gold dust and nuggets were used in exchange instead of coin.
    "All was excitement, rush, gaiety and splendid adventure, instead of the usual worry and sordid struggle of building up a civilization in the wilderness. There was, of course, the oft-recurring troubles with the Indians, and at one time a terrible and devastating scourge of smallpox, but but these calamities were overshadowed by the lure and excitement of gold.
    "When the first rush was over Jacksonville began to assume the semblance of a town instead of a camp, and began to build, not as mining towns usually do--flimsily for the present only--but solidly and substantially for the future. Respectable families began to come into the town, and homes were built which are occupied today by descendants of those early pioneers. Furniture was brought 'around the Horn' and packed in from the nearest seaport, giving a social prominence to those possessing such things. Brick business buildings were erected, which are as solid today as they were when they were built, even though all the granite [actually, sandstone] steps in front of them are worn to half-moon circles by the many feet that have ascended them through the years.
    "Flagstone sidewalks took the place of paths, and a church was built, being one of the first Protestant churches west of the Rocky Mountains. The first money donated toward the building of this little church, in which services are still held, was won over a faro table by a famous gambler. In fact, if it had not been for the generosity of those early-day gamblers, there would not have been a church built until a later date. [This favorite myth is contradicted by T. F. Royal's careful bookkeeping, which survives. It's possible that this myth records an experience of Royal's predecessor, Joseph S. Smith.]
    "Jacksonville also had the first photograph gallery established in Oregon. The photographer was Peter Britt, who used to bluntly tell the ladies, when they were displeased with their likenesses and prone to lay the fault onto the photographer, 'If you want a pretty picture, you must bring a pretty face.' This interesting old gallery is kept just as it was in the early '50s when the dance hall girls and bearded miners preened and posed for their daguerreotypes.
    "Then there was the U.S. Hotel, another brick building [completed in 1880], at which the tired travelers rested after their rough stage trip into the valley, and in which President Hayes once slept. It is used as a pioneer museum now. The express office combined with Beekman's banking house, which was one of the first banks in the state, is also unchanged by time, and one feels as he enters its doors today as if he had stepped back over half a century. In it are the gold scales, used in those early days, and notices on the walls, dimmed by time, still read 'Gold dust shipped to the Atlantic States,' 'Gold dust exchanged for United States gold coin.'
    "And there is an advertisement for the Oregon and California stagecoach with a picture of that ancient vehicle proudly exhibiting the comforts and safety of travel behind its six prancing horses, with an armed express messenger on the box beside the driver.
    "The counter, worn by time and use, where miners used to empty their buckskin pokes of nuggets, still holds, as if ready for instant use, tin candlesticks with half-burnt tallow candles in them. About the rusty box stove, still arranged in a companionable circle, are the crude chairs and rough-hewn benches, where the leading men of the community once sat and discussed momentous affairs. There may be more imposing banks in the state of Oregon than this one, but few, if any, through which so much wealth has passed.
    "All of these things and places, which are only landmarks and objects of curious interest today, at that time were important factors in the new country. And as the town began to grow and a definite form of society crystallized, it became necessary to establish some kind of law and order.
    "Oregon was a territory and Jackson County an empire in itself, comprising within its boundaries at that time what has since been subdivided into Josephine, Lake, Klamath, Coos and Curry counties. The few territorial laws that had been compiled hastily for the state related mostly to property rights and did not suffice for the dispensation of justice in a thickly populated--and sometimes lawless--community, such as Jacksonville had suddenly become.
    "In 1852 the necessity of mutual protection caused a 'people's court,' or a sort of vigilante committee to grow up. The decrees of this court were inflexible, and punishment was swift and certain. When a man was condemned for murder, he was taken out and hanged as soon as sentence was pronounced. [Not true.] In 1853, on account of increasing crime and property disputes, it became necessary to do away with such informal proceedings and to establish a judicial court. A mass  meeting was held on Jackson Creek by the citizens and miners, who, by general consent, appointed a man as 'alcalde,' investing him with unlimited jurisdiction. But it soon developed that the man chosen was unworthy of public confidence, so a 'superior alcalde' was appointed over him. [This picture of Jacksonville's brand of frontier justice is contaminated by accounts and attitudes from dime novels and movies.]
    "In September, 1853, this court held its last session, for Matthew P. Deady, who had been appointed United States district judge of the territory of Oregon, held the first regular court in Jacksonville, in a building next to the 'New State Saloon.' [The alcalde system expired in March 1853, when the Jackson County government organized.] The bench was a dry goods box, covered with a blue blanket, and, as one history says: 'Probably the uncomfortable seat occupied by the judge was so irksome that it had something to do with his rapid dispensation of justice.'
    "Eventually a wooden structure was built for the courthouse, and in 1883, against bitter opposition from all over the county, the present two-story brick building was erected. Jacksonville was stronger than her county in those days. [It was built over the objections of the populace because Jacksonville held the sympathies of two of the three county commissioners.]
    "A history of Oregon written at that time, in summing up Jacksonville's merits and acquisitions, says: 'But the crowning glory of Jacksonville is its magnificent courthouse, built in 1883, at a cost of $32,000 and after a strenuous opposition from rival points and citizens. It is the cheapest public building of its kind ever erected in Oregon, and the bill of costs never exceeded a single dollar from the amount stipulated in the contract, which disappointed the most bitter opponents, who predicted the building would ultimately foot up $100,000.'
    "The historian fails to add that Mr. Byers, the contractor, was either that rare thing--a conscientious contractor--or else very deficient in calculation, and he lost $1500 on his contract. This was made up to him, however, by the ladies of Jacksonville, who gave a grand ball in the edifice when it was completed, and turned over the proceeds to the honest and deserving Mr. Byers.
    "Since that day, when the courthouse was deemed a 'magnificent' and awe-inspiring structure, Jackson County has increased to a population of 26,000 people. An accumulation of important records during that 43 years has outgrown the capacity of the old building. Valuable records have been relegated to storerooms outside the courthouse, and some have become so stained that they are illegible and useless. It was impossible to remodel the old building for present or future needs, and so the tragedy of losing her chief prize came to Jacksonville.
    "The new generation sees nothing amazing or imposing in the stately, solid old brick building, whose small offices are Dickensesque in their quaintness, each boasting paneled wainscoting and a fireplace. The old courtroom, saturated with years of strong cigars, has, in its center aisle, a huge, big stove, which somehow mars the dignity of what is otherwise an unusually imposing courtroom. Magnificent it may have seemed at the time it was built to those men who had attended court when his honor sat on a packing box, but it fails to impress the present generation and is inadequate for the growing needs of the thriving county.
    "Not only as a hall of justice has the courtroom served, for, being the most imposing and important structure in Southern Oregon, it was used in the past for all the large social and civic gatherings which the town and county had. It has been the scene of famous Fourth of July celebrations and those wonderful pioneer reunions, community Christmas trees, grand balls, and even formal weddings.
    "Its old walls have resounded with the eloquence of some of the ablest jurists on the coast, and many a sensational trial has been conducted there. Murderers have listened to their doom, and innocent people have been freed within its portals. But no more will the life and stir of intense interest animate its old frame. Its doom is sealed, and it, too, passes into the limbo of Jacksonville's memories.
    "Many of us who knew it when it was young and proud--and we were young, too--know that it was not only a 'courthouse' in one sense of the word but in another sense as well. For, having no other park in the town, its large yard, shaded by splendid maples, served as a meeting and a trysting place for the young people of the community. Many who spent their early life in Jacksonville and who are fathers and mothers--even some who are grandfathers and grandmothers now--treasure, I know, as their fondest memory those wide granite steps and the shaded courthouse yard splashed with moonlight.
    "They remember as if yesterday the fragrance of rain-washed lilacs and the cloying sweetness of locust blossoms blended with the perfume of high lush grass sprinkled with buttercups that made youth and love most glorious things in those spring evenings of long ago. The unfolding quiet of the village evening, broken only by the rustle of leaves above them and the trickling of the creek that flowed nearby, was like a benediction which has attended them through all the years.
    "Jacksonville will come into her own someday. Like children, seeking adventure, who have strayed from their mother's knee, people will gratefully and happily return to bless her in her old age. Situated as the old town is, in the sheltering arms of pine and laurel-clad hills, commanding a view of the rolling valley before it, with a background of towering and snow-capped mountains in the distance, it has the most beautiful location in the Rogue River Valley. Already homes are building rapidly toward it along the highway, and the time is not far distant when it will be the exclusive residence district of Southern Oregon.
    "First, Jacksonville was robbed of her gold and deserted by those who ravished her; later the railroad snubbed her and cut her off from the main thoroughfare of progress. She has seen her younger generations depart, seeking success in faraway places, and finally in her old age the upstart town of Medford, like an ungrateful stepchild, has stolen her courthouse from her.
    "But there are some things that are all her own. Some things which nothing ever can take from her, and these are her memories and traditions."
    Quite a bit of space has been given to Jacksonville for obvious reasons. Now, I shall endeavor to give you a word picture of a pioneer house as I remember it. This will be the historic old home built by Grandfather Samuel Colver and Grandmother Huldah Callander, on their donation land claim number 42.
    This building, which is on the Pacific Highway at Phoenix, Jackson County, Ore., was completed in 1855, and is, perhaps, the most interesting structure erected in Oregon during the pioneer period of the state. It was constructed, primarily, for hotel purposes and also as a refuge for the various families in the settlement during the Indian uprisings.
    As Grandmother Colver did not take kindly to the idea of presiding over a hostelry, the hotel project was abandoned, and the building was never used for that purpose. It furnished protection from Indians to the neighbors for miles around on several occasions. [There was only one Indian "uprising" after the building was completed; actual violence approached no nearer than twenty miles away.]
    Considering the early day in which it was built, it is an enormous structure, being 50 by 50 feet in size, built of smoothly hewn logs, 14 inches in thickness; the logs are planed smooth on their outer surface, and dovetailed together at the corners. The port holes in the second story are not now visible, as the outside has been weatherboarded over. The house is plastered throughout and originally contained four fireplaces. The kitchen fireplace has been removed.
    This historic old house was the old community center, and the large second floor, now divided into thirteen good-sized rooms, was, at one and the same time, school room, dance hall, church, lodge and play house. It was called by old timers "the blockhouse." It is the oldest house standing in Jackson County, Oregon [The Mountain House is older.], and one of the most interesting relics from pioneer times.
    This was the house of my grandparents, Uncle Sam and Aunt Huldah Colver, as they were familiarly known, from 1855 until their death, Grandfather Colver in 1891, and Grandmother Colver in 1907. It was also the home of my great-grandfather, Samuel Colver, Sr., and great-grandmother, Rachel Curry Colver, from the time they came to Oregon from their Ohio home, in the early '50s, until their death in 1866.
    Originally an upper balcony extended across the entire front of the house, connected by an outside stairway with the lower porch. This balcony was removed about 1918 by Lloyd Colver, a grandson of the original owners. In the fall of 1923 Lloyd Colver sold the property to Miss Edith Prettyman, who converted this old family mansion and historic structure into an inn, known as the "Blue Flower Lodge."
    As a mother, who has given the best years of her life and energy to rearing her children sees them go forth into the world no longer needing her care, resolves to use her time and inspiration in developing some talent--music--drama--that has been dormant in her being during her busy years, so this old house, after sheltering the Colvers, their children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren for more than seventy years, is for the first time being used for the purposes for which it was originally constructed, a public inn.
    It has resounded to the merry frolics of the little children who have grown up within its friendly walls; it has witnessed the wedding ceremonies of many of its descendants; the massive dining room has often been a scene of radiance when the long tables were fairly groaning with the weight of good things prepared for the wedding feast; it stood with solemn and impressive dignity when neighbors and pioneer friends from far and near gathered to pay their last tribute to dear Grandmother Colver, the first mistress of the old home. Her remains lay in state across the east corner of the north room. Smilax and purple tulle were festooned over the handsome casket. Grandma wore a peaceful smile--her hands were folded across her breast--her work was done. The neighbors and old pioneer friends who had so often enjoyed the hospitality of her home now moved in solemn procession past the bier, paying mute tribute to one they had known so long and loved so well.
    The memories of this old house with all their joys and sorrows will always be treasured by all of us who have lived within its much-loved walls. Each room to us has a history. Each well-worn path marks the spot where our fathers have trod. The beautiful locust trees--the tamarack tree--the lilacs--the roses--even the cherry trees at the back were planted by our parents and grandparents when this country was young in civilization. The garden spot across the road where the blackberries grew--the black raspberries, red raspberries, currants, gooseberries, sage, corn, potatoes, onions, radishes, peas, beans, turnips, lettuce, cucumbers, watermelons and muskmelons could always be found in season, due to the thrift of Grandmother Colver.
    The orchard where pearmains, golden russets, Baldwins, Rambos, sweet apples, pears, plums, prunes, peaches, almonds were gathered in abundance. The cherry trees near the house, reaching 50 feet or more into the sky, where we ate and ate until our stomachs rebelled and we were forced down from our lofty perch to find Grandmother and her bottle of "painkiller" to relieve our self-inflicted agony. Then last, but not least, the kitchen cupboard and cellar where we, on occasion, dipped with a spoon into pear preserves, peach preserves, Damson plum preserves, peach pickle, blackberry preserves, raspberry jam, currant jelly, apple butter and apple jelly, plum butter and much more--then to the cupboard for Grandmother's pies--apple, mince, custard--and the cookie jar. It was seldom empty. Such bountiful supplies were due to Grandmother's thrift. She came of Vermont Yankee stock.
    The most beautiful picture in my memory is of the old house as it looked on a May day, about 1890. The orchard in full bloom, the dozen or more full-grown lilac bushes in bloom--the American Beauty and other roses unfolding their petals--the locust trees and tamarack in blossom. I never hope to again see such beauty and smell such fragrance as surrounded this old home at this time. Memories--memories--such blessed memories. They are the most treasured memories of my life.
    Then, the Christmas celebrations at Grandma Colver's. The picture which stands out foremost in my mind is that of the tree itself as it stood in the bedroom north of the dining room in this old home. This Christmas tree, as I recall, it was surely more perfect in shape than any of our trees today. The limbs seem to have been the same length from floor to ceiling--probably the trees had been topped--and then, of course, due allowance must be made for the fact that I am now seeing them through the glass of years. As I now see them, in my mind's eye, they were magnificent trees--fir--with limbs extending about four feet or more on all sides. They had been cut from the groves on the family estates. These groves included beautiful specimens of black oak, white oak, cedar, pine, laurel (madrone), manzanita, wild grape, willow, alder, elm, cottonwood, wild plum, elder, and other shrubs and vines.
    For Christmas decorations, an abundance of mistletoe was to be had fresh from the oak trees, to which it clung in its parasitic existence. On Christmas Eve the bedroom door was kept closed from peering eyes, until all was ready, which, of course, added to the evening's thrill for the grandchildren and others who were to share this great treat.
    When the signal was finally given, and the door opened, words fail to describe the beauty of this wonderful Christmas tree. Lighted candles were on the tip of each limb, from floor to ceiling; strung popcorn was draped from the tip of each limb--cookies tied with red ribbons--our own lovely laurel (madrone) berries, which grow in such abundance around Phoenix, were strung and draped like the popcorn.
    Sacks made of mosquito netting and sewed with red yarn were filled with candy, nuts, and oranges, and hung from the limbs. Christmas cards, dolls, mysterious packages were tied on the trees. Gold and silver tinsel also helped to make this wonderful Christmas tree a thing of beauty to the eager waiting children, and old folks, too.
    About sixty years ago, Santa Claus had hung, on one of these Christmas trees, a big china doll for a little girl named Nellie Rose, and that was my name. A year or two later a wonderful wax doll was addressed to this same little girl. When my father's house burned in 1886, I still had both these dolls--one was five years old at the time. Then my wardrobe drawer was for my own things only, also held a lovely coin and handkerchief beaded bag, and a crocheted bag, stiffened and about the color of varnish, with a dark red satin ribbon run around it near the top and tied with a large red satin bow. These crocheted bags were used for carrying our Sunday school quarterlies, Bibles, and other things, on Sunday morning when we went to Sunday school. Then, too, this wardrobe drawer of mine held two sets of china dishes which had come to me by way of these wonderful Christmas trees, as did the bags. A subscription to the Youth's Companion came to my sister Effie by the Santa Claus route, and to me, a book called Babyland, which I learned by heart.
    The little Presbyterian church at Phoenix was the scene of many Christmas festivities. I feel sure that in my early youth, a public tree, or trees, was an annual occurrence at this little church. At the church we had inspiring programs. They seemed so then, and I know now, after the lapse of so many years, that we were enjoying a rare treat when we heard the splendid Christmas anthems, solos, etc., sung by the Gore family, the Coleman girls, the Van Dykes and others. No finer music has ever been heard in Rogue River Valley, I'm sure, than was listened to, not only on Christmas, but every Sunday, at the little pioneer Presbyterian church in Phoenix.
    As I write this, I can, in memory, hear my Uncle Will Gore singing Gounod's "Nazareth," accompanied by Aunt Carrie Gore, who was a stepdaughter of the pioneer Presbyterian minister, Rev. M. A. Williams. She was a graduate from Mills Seminary, Oakland, California, and an accomplished musician. The choir would sing "Joy to the World, the Lord Is Come," Aunt Ella Gore Wortman singing alto, Uncle Ed and Uncle Will Gore tenor, and Uncle Walter and Uncle John bass. My father and mother also sang in the choir, as did Mrs. Sarah Van Dyke and others.
    Then, in the evenings, after the cows had been milked, the eggs gathered, the chickens fed, the wood and kindling arranged neatly on the front porch, near the door, the supper over, and the dishes washed, we gathered in the living room. A large backlog with finer wood in the front kept a cheery blaze in the fireplace. The black-and-white cocker spaniel dog, and the old gray cat were stretched comfortably on the rug in front of the fire; and Grandma Colver was sitting by the large, round, center table, on which always rested the big family Bible, reading her daily chapter in the Good Book, following the lines with her forefinger, stopping to chuckle, occasionally, over some passage that sounded funny, but remarking, "It must be all right or it wouldn't be there."
    At the center of the fireplace mantle was the large clock tick-tocking the hours away; at each end of the mantle was a tall, milk-glass candlestick, in the shape of a cross with a figure nailed to it; on each side of the clock was a china vase, flared at the top, with scroll designs on the side, and a bouquet of colorful flowers on the front. On a round table in the northeast corner was a copy of the poems of Mrs. Felicia Hemans, one of William Cowper's poems, a Book of Familiar Quotations, a copy of "David and Anna Matson," by Abigail Scott Duniway, and other books, for the Colvers were lovers of books, and had brought some of them across the plains.
    A large mirror hung near the front door. Under it was a washstand holding a blue-and-white toilet set, bowl, pitcher, soap dish, water pitcher, and, inside the washstand was the chamber [pot] to match the set. For this living room was also Grandma's bedroom. Her bed with its snowy white bedspread and stiffly laundered pillow shams, edged with white lace, was a very decorative feature of the room. Against the south wall stood the Mason and Hamlin organ, where I played and sang the old songs and the gospel hymns that Grandma loved to hear. Her favorite was "The Ninety and Nine." I spent so many happy hours at that organ, no doubt finding there an emotional outlet when happy and gay, or, when sad and sorrowful and perplexed. The bureau with a large mirror stood across the southwest corner of the room. On it was a linen towel with a red design across the ends just above the fringe, and on this, in season, was a bouquet of roses, fresh every morning. It was often my duty and pleasure to gather and arrange these flowers from the many bushes about the yard.
    Against the west wall was the lounge. upholstered in dark green wool rep; above it hung the enlarged pictures of my mother and her brother, the only children of Grandma and Grandpa Colver, who had lost these two children several years before, and now had only the seven grandchildren to comfort them in their declining years.
    On the center table was a fruit dish filled with choice apples from the family orchard. The weekly Ashland Tidings kept us abreast with the news; the Pacific Christian Advocate came regularly, and Grandma subscribed for The Ladies' Home Journal for me, and these took care of our reading material. Such an evening was, to me, as near heaven as I ever wanted to be, and, to paraphrase the familiar poem, wasn't it good for a child to see, and wasn't it good for a child to be, there with Grandma Colver.
    There is so much to tell, but some of it must wait until another time. In this story I have tried to give you some facts not found in history books, personal recollections, reminiscences of some who were a part of it all, some newspaper stories from my scrapbooks, and first-hand information from other sources.
    I have not touched on the Rogue River Indian war, said by one historian to have been caused by "bad Indians and worse whites"; the tales about the heroic wives of Rogue River Valley pioneers would make a book worth preserving for future generations. Many of them were women of education and refinement and have left their imprint on the culture of succeeding generations; individual stories of fortunes made or lost in the gold mines; stories of encounters with grizzly bears; many of these are available in newspaper stories in my scrapbooks, but these must wait until some future date.
    The late B. F. Irvine, for many years editor of the Oregon Journal, Portland, once lived on Forest Creek, near Jacksonville. In 1926 he visited the scenes of his youth in and around this historic city, and wrote an editorial about it for his paper. He closed the editorial with this paragraph:
    "It is a local claim, and with a good deal of justification, that Jackson County has within its mountain-spurred Rogue River Basin and the tributary valleys a greater variety of resources than any other area of the same size in the United States. Anyone who visits the district and studies its assets will admit that nature there has been lavish in its bestowals."
Nellie Rose Newbury Jones
230 High Ave.
Klamath Falls, Oregon 
Colver Papers, University of Oregon Special Collections Ax 126.
The unidentified historian's quoted at length above was written by Helen Colvig Cook




Last revised April 18, 2023