We arrived here today at noon. The presence of Captain Gardiner being necessary aboard the steamer to keep order among the troops, I was requested to report our arrival to Brig. General John E. Wool, the commander of the Pacific. He directed us to proceed with the troops to Benicia Barracks. Availing myself of the delay of the John L. Stevens, I took a little stroll around the city. The entrance to the bay of San Francisco, known as the Golden Gate, is formed by a great fissure in the Coast Range of ́mountains, and is only one mile and seventeen yards wide at its narrowest point. As we enter it from the ocean for the first time, its width seems much less than it really is--owing to the high steep bluffs on either side.
    San Francisco is situated upon the sandy peninsula, or ridge, that separates the bay from the ocean--having the latter about four miles to the west, and the Golden Gate nearly the same distance in a north-westerly direction. It faces on the east the San Francisco Bay, which is formed by the confluence of the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. This bay extends north and south parallel with the Pacific Ocean, about forty miles; being separated from the latter by the narrow peninsula just mentioned. The city possesses one of the finest harbors in the world. A few scattered houses, called Washerwoman's Bay, first present themselves on nearing the wharf, causing a feeling of disappointment; which is, however, soon dispelled on landing and seeing the many beautiful residences and noble brick and granite stores. The population is about forty-five thousand, a wonderful increase since April, 1848, when the town contained only eight hundred and fifty souls.
    Although the times are hard here now owing to the late financial panic, and croakers think the end of the city's prosperity has come, there must sooner or later be a reaction when she will grow faster than ever. To obtain a fine view of San Francisco, and the surrounding country, it is necessary to go to the top of Telegraph Hill, from which eminence of two hundred and ninety feet one has a sight of portions of ten counties, the bay, the Pacific Ocean, and the magical city below, destined to be the New York of the Pacific Coast.
    We reached this place on the seventeenth instant. On examining the baggage I discovered that my two trunks, containing clothing and valuable books, were missing. This was surprising, as I had been particular on arriving at San Francisco to see my baggage separated from that which was to be put out there, and took the further precaution of having it placed under the charge of a corporal. Knowing how rarely anything of this kind was recovered when left behind, I felt rather discouraged for the moment. Seeing a boat coming down the river at the time, I made for the landing, in order to secure a passage to San Francisco to hunt my trunks. Being ignorant of the path, I cut across a swampy flat, and had it rough and tug over my patent leathers in mud and mire, for about a mile and a half. Missed her--had to wait for a second. Got to San Francisco at one and a half at night. On inquiring at the steamship company's office the following morning, had the satisfaction of finding the lost trunks, which had been taken ashore. Gross carelessness both on the part of the baggagemaster and corporal.
    Returning to Benicia the same day, I reported myself to the Medical Director, Surgeon Charles G. Tripler, for temporary duty at that place. These barracks are situated on an elevated rolling prairie, three-quarters of a mile from the Suisun Bay, right bank. The whole country is now carpeted by a luxuriant crop of wild oats. It is splendid forage for horses and cattle. Makes capital hay; but should be packed immediately after being cured, or else it becomes too dry, and loses much of its strength. Many beautiful flowers add freshness and brilliancy to the enchanting landscape. Several copious showers in the last few days; an unusual thing in this season. The Mexicans say los Yankees have changed everything--even the climate.
    Near the fort is a little village of the same name. The latter is thirty miles north of San Francisco, and is situated on the north side of the Strait of Carquinez, a contraction of San Francisco Bay; which is here only a mile wide. The expansion just above this point is called Suisun Bay, into which the waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers empty by numerous channels, called sloughs, forming a kind of delta. The largest ocean vessels can easily reach the city of Benicia.
    Things are dearer here than in San Francisco--excepting rent and board. The latter, at the American Hotel, where I am stopping, is three dollars per diem. But prices are coming down, as flour and vegetables can now be purchased comparatively cheap. Certain kinds of fruits are high, and must be so for many years. A gentleman of veracity has just assured me that, feeling a desire for an apple, he asked the price of some the other day, and was told two dollars and a half each. Of course he didn't gratify his taste. In a few years fruit will be abundant, as much attention is being given to its cultivation both here and in the adjoining Territory of Oregon. Peaches and pears grow well in this state, but the best apples are raised in Oregon.
    May 25, 1855.--The snow-capped Sierra Nevada is visible this morning. To the naked eye it looks like a bank of white clouds, but its outline and character are fully determined by a spyglass. This is a fine climate for flowers--which can be kept in perpetual bloom by watering. Strolling through the garden of a friend this morning, I saw a perfect paradise of sweet williams, verbenas, geraniums, mallows, sweet peas, and many varieties of flowers, peculiar to the prairies of California. One unknown species of the latter is remarkable for its propensity to spread. A single shoot will extend over a large bed in the course of a single year.
    Having been assigned to duty at Fort Orford, Oregon Territory, I shall proceed thither in a few days. General Wool has returned from Oregon. Whilst there he fitted out an expedition for the Snake Indian country to protect emigrants from the States. It is feared that the emigration to Oregon and California will be very small this year in consequence of Indian hostilities on the plains east of the Rocky Mountains. A large force, under the command of General Harney, is being sent against the Sioux and other troublesome tribes on that frontier. The last papers brought us accounts of several encounters between the Apaches and dragoons in New Mexico. Indian troubles in this department (the Pacific) are also quite frequent.
    The coast climate of this portion of California is divided into two seasons, the dry and wet. The former extending from May to November, the latter the remainder of the year. There is, properly speaking, no winter nor summer. The latter, or dry season, is, perhaps, colder than the former, and far more disagreeable, on account of the prevalence of cold winds, dense fogs and dust, which do not prevail in the wet, or winter season. The clear weather of winter is represented as delightfully balmy and pleasant. This description is more particularly applicable to San Francisco; and, perhaps, Benicia.
    The almost entire absence of rain in summer is very favorable for harvesting, which is now in full blast in this vicinity. At present, one may see hundreds of persons cutting down wild oats; which, being simply cocked, is allowed to remain on the ground for weeks, and even months, without fear of its being spoiled by rain. Some haste is required in mowing it, however, as it matures very rapidly in consequence of the high winds and dry atmosphere. When I first arrived, the grass was beautifully fresh and green--it is now drying rapidly. In a few weeks some miscreant will probably set it on fire, after which the whole country will look black and barren until November, when the young oats and grass will spring up.
    The old adage: "Every rose has its thorns," is as true in regard to this country and climate as to anything else. The thorns here are fleas, which are as thick as the locusts of Egypt. It seems impossible that even Pharaoh's obdurate heart could have withstood such a plague as this. I was at first rather shocked at the careless manner in which even ladies alluded to these insects; but a short experience taught me that the rascals would force themselves upon the attention of all; and, like many other troublesome things, soon become an engrossing subject of conversation. Perhaps these are the only pests, as there are no venomous snakes, tarantulas, scorpions, centipedes, or mosquitoes, or, if any, but few. It is probable the latter would be troublesome, were it not for the high winds, which blow day and night, with the exception of an hour or two about sundown. These render the country particularly unpleasant for females, as they prevent their riding or promenading as much as they otherwise would.
    Left Benicia last Wednesday for this place. Will leave here on Wednesday next, in the steamer Columbia, for Fort Orford, Oregon. The present is a great epoch in the history of this eventful city. The recent failures of a few extensive firms, among others the banking house of Page, Bacon & Co., have created a perfect panic among business men. In addition to this, there are being brought forward for adjudication large claims, founded upon Mexican grants, for some of the land in and around San Francisco. The Bolton-Barron grant, alone, calls for three thousand acres. This claim has been allowed by the U.S. Land Commissioners; thus making Palmer, Cook & Co., who got half of it, the wealthiest men in California. It has yet to go through the Supreme Court; but as the Board acted in conformity to decisions laid down by this honorable body, its decision may probably be sustained.
    The history of the claim is, that whilst California still belonged to the Mexican government, the latter granted to the Padre of the Dolores Mission this amount of land, provided he liquidated the debts of the Mission. This he complied with. When the gold fever broke out, the Padre was unable to prevent squatters from settling on his land, and accordingly sold it out. It subsequently fell into the hands of a company in Philadelphia, and the gentlemen above mentioned, who brought the present suit. The decision of the Commissioners has created great excitement, as hundreds of men are thus dispossessed of what they deemed their own. The latter have got up an association denominated "Our Homes and Our Firesides," with a view of influencing the Legislature, and thus causing to be enacted a law to secure them in their rights.
    There are many other large claims besides this. One, the Leidesdorff, embraces some of the finest portions of the southern part of the city. This is now before the Land Commissioners. If allowed, it will probably ruin an acquaintance of mine, Captain Folsom, Assistant Quartermaster, U.S. Army, as it will not only absorb a large portion of his estate, but establish a point in law which will compel him to lose the remainder. This gentleman was considered in the early part of last year as the largest land-holder in California, and, perhaps, in the United States. At the enormous rates at which property was then selling, his estate would have brought him a million and a half of dollars. His indebtedness was something like $200,000. Some of his judicious friends advised him to take advantage of the high prices, and dispose of enough of his estate to liquidate his debts, on which he was paying an annual interest of from thirty to forty per centum. But, like many others, his ambition was to be considered among the wealthiest land-holders in the United States, and he, therefore, held on till the present time. If his property were now forced into market it would not yield more than one quarter of its value a year ago--and there is no prospect of a reaction for a long time to come, as the prices of '54 were greatly inflated.
    There is also a Mexican (native Californian) claimant for the quicksilver mines in San José (pronounced San Ho-sá) Valley, south of San Francisco some forty miles. These are considered the most productive mines in the world--at present owned by an English company. This whole valley is considered the richest and best in California. It possesses a great advantage over other sections of the state, in its numerous artificial springs, or artesian wells, which are the finest in the Union. It is said to be necessary to bore only from fifteen to thirty feet to obtain fine gushing streams; some of which throw water to the height of eight and ten feet.
    It is related that a gentleman in a little village near the mines (I think San José) went to work boring an artificial spring, and that when he got down to the depth of some fifteen feet, the water rushed out in such a torrent that it was feared it would inundate the town. The City Council convened and passed an act fining the man five hundred dollars unless he put an immediate stop to the water. The poor fellow was in a dilemma, for he had tried his best, but couldn't succeed, in stemming the impetuous torrent. Finally he took the advice of a lawyer as to how he might avoid the penalty. The latter told him that if he would follow his instructions the matter could be settled in a very short time, and that his fee would be one hundred dollars. The fellow gladly embraced the proposition. His professional adviser then directed him to dig a ditch and let the water run into an adjacent ravine. The simplicity of the thing confounded him at first. He paid the fee, however, did as advised, and of course succeeded. This is a moral for all who seek professional advice before exerting properly their own good common sense; for although this lawyer made an enemy of his client by not giving him advice more in conformity with legal custom in such cases, he undoubtedly conferred on him a greater benefit than is usually received by clients.
    In connection with Captain Folsom's case, I should have added that the rates of interest that he is paying are trifling, in comparison to the enormous sums exacted from men in reduced circumstances. A gentleman assured me that in 1850 and 1851 he never lent a dollar for less than fifteen percent a month--the rates are now from two to three and a half percent on bond and mortgage. This demand for money seems an anomaly in a state from which there is a monthly shipment of three millions of dollars. This condition of things is, in a measure, owing to the uncertainty of titles; one is never perfectly sure that the person to whom he lends his money has an undoubted right to the property offered as surety; and, even if the title be good, there may be a previous mortgage, notwithstanding he has employed a lawyer to examine the records, for the latter are so voluminous, in consequence of the constant changes of ownership to property, that it is generally impossible to examine the matter thoroughly in the time usually devoted to such examinations in this community; hence, many who have loaned money on mortgage at three percent. a month wind up by losing principal and all. This state of things has rendered capitalists timid in lending out their means on real estate security. But, independent of this, there is probably a greater demand for money in San Francisco than in any other city of its size in the world, in consequence of an unlimited system of speculation. The desire for speculation seems to have affected all professions and classes; and extends to every variety of goods or merchandise, as well as real estate. In regard to merchandise, the losses generally fall on the shipper or Eastern merchant; nine-tenths of them lose heavily. For instance, gentlemen in New York, Philadelphia or Boston learn that a certain article is very high in San Francisco--they immediately ship immense quantities. Probably all their cargoes will arrive about the same time. The market is glutted; yet they must sell, for the expenses of a ship lying alongside of a wharf in this city are enormous. Probably the only ones that make anything out of the transaction are the jobbers; or, in some instances, the merchants to whom the cargoes may be consigned. If their instructions are to sell with as little delay as possible, and the market is dull, they sometimes buy in cargoes themselves, and by holding on awhile occasionally reap large profits.
    Sometimes they find it profitable to reship it to the States, as in a recent instance, several shiploads of flour were sent to San Francisco. At the time of shipment it was buying in the latter place at forty dollars per barrel, and only worth seven dollars in New York. It was the average time of four months on the passage around Cape Horn. Its price in the meantime had gone down to seven dollars in San Francisco, and up to fifteen dollars in New York. The consignees, according to instructions, sold it, but bought it themselves, and reshipping it to the same place whence it came, realized a handsome profit. Whether they acted in good faith to the original shippers I can't say. At all events the Eastern merchants have to stand the brunt of most of the losses from wild speculations in California. It is high time for them to grow wiser by experience.
    All nations are represented in San Francisco, but particularly the Jews. There are all grades of these--from the most respectable merchant, or professional man, down to the mock auction dealer. It is amusing to stroll down some of the streets after gas-light, and witness the various methods adopted by the latter class of merchants to drum up customers. A common device is to start a band of music until a large crowd is collected, then for the mock auctioneer to mount the stand and bid off the goods as if it were really a bona fide auction. They thus gull large numbers of that class of people who deem everything bought at public auction must be cheap.
    Occasionally, one of the initiated will step up to the auctioneer, and handing him a watch, request it to be sold, as he is pressed for money. The watch is accordingly knocked down to the highest bidder; who, when it is probably too late, discovers his magnificent gold lever (seventeen jewels), to be brass. Many a poor sailor is thus bamboozled out of his money; and the most strenuous exertions of the police are generally powerless to find out the perpetrators, from the fact that the poor dupe is usually unable to designate the precise house that sold the article. This is destined to be a large and beautiful city; its suburbs, particularly towards the Mission, are superb.
    Leaving San Francisco on the morning of the eighteenth instant, we reached here on the evening of the 21st, after a tedious and boisterous voyage of nearly four days. The northwest head winds were so strong that we only averaged about two and a half miles per hour. On the last day out, the vessel rolled and pitched terribly; of course most everybody was seasick. Although so unwell as to be compelled to assume the recumbent posture while on deck, yet I greatly enjoyed the scene; for surely nothing is so sublime as the upheaving of the mighty deep in a storm. The gale began on the night of the 20th. We were suddenly awakened, and almost tossed out of our berths by a tremendous lurch and crash of the vessel; leading many to suppose she "had struck." I stood it, however, with great equanimity, as a seasick man will always do. When daylight dawned the sight was grand beyond description--the ocean was lashed by the wind in a terrible commotion--the billows rolled and swelled aloft as if bent on the destruction of our vessel; but of this there was not the least apprehension, as we all had had sufficient sea experience to know how difficult it is to sink a staunch ship. Her seesawing motions were sometimes so rapid as to almost take our breath. When struck by a cross-sea away would go chairs, basins and dishes. Our roommate of the lower bunk was really to be pitied on one occasion of this kind. There the poor fellow lay so sick that he couldn't rise, when a sudden lurch capsized a bucket of filthy water, that the waiter was cleaning the room with, all over him. Although commiserating his pitiful condition I could not help congratulating myself on having procured a middle berth--secure from such accidents. Of course everything that can be, is fastened down on a ship. For instance the tables, and seats for the same, are secured; but it is impracticable to tie down things which it is necessary to move constantly. The dining table is usually covered with a movable framework to retain the dishes in their places; this arrangement did not suffice in the present instance.
    As usual, we had some very pleasant, and a few exceedingly disagreeable, persons aboard. There was a gentleman belonging to the profession of civil engineers, en route for Oregon, to secure a contract for surveying. Unfortunately for himself and fellow passengers, he was very much intoxicated, and, hence, disposed to give full play to the expression of his thoughts, which being sarcastic, and generally personal, rendered his society very undesirable. He usually began his conversation by preaching forth his wonderful acquirements, which, according to his own estimation, were vast indeed. He harped principally upon the government and her officials, civil, not military, and particularly the Surveyor General of California, Major Jack Hays--who came in for the largest share of abuse; but unluckily for his auditors, he was prone before the conclusion of his discourse to identify them with the perpetrators of all his wrongs. One unfortunate fellow was disposed to quiz him, and this brought down upon himself the most sarcastic abuse I have ever heard. This gentleman was bald-pated and small-headed, and having just crossed the Isthmus, had his face burned to a blister. Mr. L---- consequently possessed a fruitful theme of discourse on phrenology. He began by asking his subject if he possessed any knowledge of this science or any other, and then laid down as his first proposition that men of his cranial conformation never had any intelligence; upon which he dilated with great volubility, to the merriment of everyone. We could only "laugh in our sleeves," as the fellow's abuse was intolerable, and ought to have been promptly checked by the Captain, in order to prevent a disturbance. Fortunately, the abused gentleman set it all down to King Alcohol, probably deeming himself a little to blame, and bore it like a martyr--knowing, also, that a single word to Capt. Dall would have been the means of sending the intoxicated individual from the cabin to the steerage, as a nuisance. The Captain was on the eve of doing this anyway, as the man's impertinence ran wild; but he finally toned him down by taking away his liquor, and, giving him a dose of morphine, put him to sleep. Next morning he was sober, but awfully seasick; so we saw no more of his honor.
    Near the Golden Gate was pointed out to us the spot where a splendid steamer was wrecked in 1851, on attempting to enter the harbor of San Francisco in a dense fog. We touched at Trinidad and Crescent City; the latter is a thriving little village. It is about three hundred miles from San Francisco, and sixty-two from Fort Orford. We also passed the mouth of Rogue River, famous for its Indian war in 1853.

    Landing at this post on the twenty-first of this month, after a long and tedious sea voyage, via the Isthmus, and a short delay in California, I was vividly impressed with the exhilarating and health-inspiring influence of the air. The evergreen forests of spruce, fir, and cedar, which are still standing in all their primeval loveliness and grandeur, associated in a few places with the beautiful rhododendron, and the sweet-scented myrtle, covering mountains and vales, give a novelty and charm to the landscape unsurpassed by anything of the kind ever seen by me before.
    The summer months here are delightfully cool and pleasant, but the other three seasons are checkered with fogs, cold winds, and storms of rain, and occasionally of snow. The lightning's flash and the loud thunder's rattle are in summer unseen and unheard; but the intermitting roar of old Ocean's waves dashing at regular intervals against the rock-bound shore inspires one continually with the grandeur and sublimity of the scene.
    This fort is in latitude 42 deg. 44 min. 27 sec. north; and longitude 124 deg. 28 min. 52 sec. west. On reference to the meteorological observations of the post, I find there are in the course of a year 180 fair, 186 cloudy, and 122 rainy days, with one day of snow. The mean temperature of spring is 52.26 deg.; of summer, 58.21 deg.; of autumn 54.22 deg.; and of winter 50.18 deg.; and of the year, 53.71 of Fahrenheit. The average rainfall is in spring--16.71 inches; in summer, 3.33 inches; in autumn, 22.69 inches; in winter, 32.29 inches, and for the year, 75.02 inches. The thermometer ranges between 79 deg. in summer to 30 deg. above zero in winter. The climate is remarkably healthy; there are no malarious diseases. The soil is good except near the beach, but not very productive of such fruits and cereals as require warm summers.
    Such garden vegetables as cabbages and potatoes thrive well; tomatoes, melons and corn hardly ever come to maturity. Peaches, plums, cherries, pears, grapes and suchlike fruits cannot be raised to advantage. To wild berries, fruits, game and fish I shall make allusion further on after a personal inspection of the country--grass in this region is green throughout the entire year.
    The principal rivers near here are the Coquille, thirty miles north; Elk, four miles north; and Rogue River, thirty miles south. The second-mentioned stream received its name from the large herds of elk which range along its bottom lands. Elk meat is more largely consumed here as an article of food than beef--it is nearly as good, and much cheaper; it sells at from twelve to eighteen cents per pound, whereas good beef is worth twenty-five cents per pound.
    There are two traditions as to the origin of the name of the last-mentioned river. Some assert that it took its appellation from the roguish propensities of the Indians living on its borders; whilst others maintain that rogue is a corruption of the French word rouge (or red) signifying red river, because some of its principal head branches are always turbid from a mixture of reddish clay and sand stirred up in the mining districts. [The first explanation is supported by the records of the 1827 Ogden expedition. No tributaries of the Rogue ever have a red tinge.]
    Adjoining the Military Reservation of this fort is a little village called Port Orford, which was located or laid out in [1851], during the mania upon the subject of town sites. Having the best port between San Francisco and the Columbia River, it was thought to be an admirable spot for a large city, but like many similar attempts, it has proven a failure. For notwithstanding the additional advantages of gold having since been discovered along the sand beach for many miles above and below the town, and of the touching here of a regular mail steamer every fortnight, it still numbers only about forty houses, and one-third of these are tenantless. It has a good summer harbor, as the wind during this season is from the northwest; but in the autumn, winter and early part of spring, it is generally very dangerous for vessels to attempt to "lie to" in the harbor, or even to enter it, as the prevailing winds are then from the south, southwest, and southeast. The expenditure by the government, some of these days, of a few millions of dollars, for a breakwater, will make this a magnificent harbor of refuge for our naval and merchant vessels, when overtaken by storms on the Northern Pacific Coast.
    Our post is nearly surrounded by a dense forest--but has an expansive view of the Pacific Ocean in front. It is cut off from the beautiful Rogue River and Willamette valleys by the Coast Range of mountains--some spurs and peaks of which are very high. One of the highest points in our vicinity is "Humbug Mountain"--receiving its name from a false report of the discovery of rich gold diggings on it. [The name came from William Tichenor's assertion that the mountain was the western end of an easy route into the interior.]
    This whole coast, from San Francisco to the Russian possessions, is thickly wooded--the principal trees are fir, cypress and cedar; the latter is only found at intervals. It makes much the best lumber, as it does not shrink and swell alternately with the dry or wet weather so much as the two other kinds, and is more durable, and makes far the best finish. It is quite abundant near this place; its market value is three or four times as much as fir or spruce. There are three sawmills here, only one of which is at present running--the others are idle for the want of water. The one in operation is a steam mill, and turns out daily an average of fifty-five hundred feet of plank, besides many thousand laths; it employs twenty-five hands. Sawmilling is another example of our speculation. From 1847 to 1852, there was great demand for lumber, especially in San Francisco, which was then being built up of frame houses; but after the great fires there in '50 and '52, a more substantial class of buildings was erected of stone and brick--lumber was, consequently, in but slight demand. Its supply had, in the meantime, increased about twenty-fold, as a large number of persons had been induced by the enormous prices of two hundred and six hundred dollars per one thousand feet, to erect sawmills; it is now a drug in the market.
    Twelve months ago there was great excitement in regard to the discovery of gold near this place; as is usual under such circumstances large numbers of people flocked here--the majority of whom went away disappointed. The beach for many miles below and above this point has gold in it, and in some places "pays well." They who secure average claims, in point of richness, and work them properly, clear from two to seven dollars per day; but the great drawback to miners here is that they won't let well enough alone--they are constantly leaving old claims that yield moderately well, to look out for better. Moreover, though naturally shrewd, they are easily humbugged into some castle-building, money-making mining operation, that promises everything and accomplishes nothing; particularly if the impostor be a foreigner, and possess some knowledge of chemical jugglery--being able by a few tricks to convince his dupes that he has discovered some wonderful method of separating gold dust from sand, by causing it to unite more readily with mercury than by the common process, he succeeds in organizing a stock-mining company, which is to give him one-third or half of the profits; thus making a very profitable operation for himself, even by the ordinary methods of mining, so long as he can keep his dupes in the dark, and hold his company together. There is a Monsieur C. at present humbugging some twelve or fourteen persons in this way. The affair is, however, about reaching a climax, and he will doubtless soon have to leave "these diggings," as he did those of Rogue River a short time ago. Vive la bagatelle.
     Miners in this Territory and California are governed in their operations by what is termed the Mining Law; which, although agreeing in its general features, varies somewhat in its details in different districts. This law is a system of regulations formed by the miners themselves, and at one time governed them in almost everything criminal and civil, but is at present limited to a few points only--such as the right of ownership to claims, and the extent of ground each man is allowed by preemption. At some places each person is permitted to take up a claim of three hundred feet front, by fifty or one hundred deep; in others, not more than one half of this extent is granted. This only refers to preemption right, that is, the title to mineral land conferred by virtue of having first "squatted on it." One has the privilege of buying as many claims as he pleases.
    There is not a more healthy spot on the globe than Fort Orford--the only diseases here are the result of some species of intemperance. Indeed, were it not for an occasional accident there would be no need of a physician at this post; more particularly as the command is so small--being only a detachment of twenty-five men (Company M, Third Artillery), commanded by Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, Fourth Infantry. I had more cases of sickness to attend in one day at Fort Arbuckle, during the sickly season, than I would be likely to have here in a whole year.
    As Lieutenant A. V. Kautz is absent on detached service I am in command of the post, and have just had the pleasure of firing a national salute of thirty-one guns. To be able to appreciate our national greatness, one should travel over the Union and behold for himself the immense extent of territory now embraced in our mighty Republic; which possesses every variety of soil and climate, and more natural resources, generally, than that of any other nation on the globe; and inhabited by a people vigorous, intellectual, brave and indomitably persevering. Our past history has been a miracle to the nations of the Old World; and our prospects are still more glorious. Could our forefathers have seen the fruits of the glorious cause for which they laid down their lives, their dying couches would have been replete with all the joy that earth can afford. May we never cease to commemorate this day, and to offer up thanksgiving to the Ruler of Heaven and Earth for his helping hand to our ancestors in the hour of their greatest distress. In the language of the poet I may conclude:
    July 5th, 1855.--We are hourly looking for the steamer Columbia; she always touches here and leaves the mail, both going and returning. On her last trip down there were some four or five army officers on board--some of whom have recently received appointments in the new regiments. Among others were Captain Stoneman, Captain Whiting and Lieutenant Williams. Major Henry Prince, with some two hundred and thirty-one U.S. troops, destined for Fort Vancouver, will probably be up on the next steamer. The one they started in, the America, was burnt on last Sunday night week, whilst stopping for a short time at Crescent City. She was totally destroyed.
    In order to protect our immense western frontier, Congress passed a bill last session, adding four new regiments to the army--two of cavalry, and two of infantry. These are being rapidly filled up, and will probably be ready for the field next spring. Our troops in New Mexico are kept constantly in active service--the Apache Indian being very troublesome. An expedition of several regiments, under General Harney, has been ordered on the plains west of Kansas and Nebraska to quell Indian depredations. The Sioux have been very troublesome there within the last twelve months.
    In California and Oregon disturbances occasionally occur between the settlers and Indians--a few years ago they were quite frequent. Then there were several fights in this vicinity--Captain Alden, U.S. Army, was wounded in one of those engagements near Rogue River. Six miners were killed in another encounter on the Coquille. Shortly after this last affair, the miners in a large body went against the Indians, and killed some fifteen of them.
    Within a hundred yards of [the] garrison, and a short distance from shore, is a rock known as "Battle Rock," receiving its name from a contest which took place there in [1851], between some Americans and Indians. The former had intended landing with the view of selecting a town site, but finding the latter hostile, took up their position on the above rock, whilst their vessel--Captain Tichenor's schooner--returned to San Francisco for reinforcements. The Indians made numerous attacks on the place for ten or twelve days, but being repulsed with heavy losses, finally abandoned the idea of dislodging the whites from their secure retreat. The rock, being some twenty yards from shore, was rather inaccessible. A small cannon that the whites had was used with much success and assisted more than anything else in frightening the Indians. The loss of the latter was ten or twelve. None of the former killed--a few slightly wounded. The whole party, consisting of only nine men, finally made their escape into Umpqua Valley.
    July 11th, 1855.--The Columbia passed up last Friday, and has just gone down--having on board several army officers; some of whom are on their way to New York. Among others Lieutenant Myers and Dr. Luckley. A friend of ours, Mr. L. Blanding, of San Francisco, who has been spending a few days with us, also took passage in her this morning. Being a lawyer of some eminence, and possessing agreeable manners, his visit was very welcome to this lovely place. Our associates in this neighborhood are few indeed.
    July 23rd, 1855.--Lieutenant Kautz and I went a-fishing yesterday in Elk River, and caught a lot of splendid trout. There are two species of this delicious fish in Oregon; one, called the mountain trout--being the same as the speckled or brook trout of the Northern States; and the other the salmon trout. The former abound in the clear mountain streams and small freshwater lakes; the latter in the rivers and lakes near the ocean. The salmon trout are much larger than the mountain trout, and are very closely allied to the salmon itself.
    This being a heavily timbered country, there are, of course, very few flowers. I see no familiar ones except the yarrow, wild tansy, and strawberry; there is also a specie of wild clover which grows very abundantly. Of fruits we have the salmonberry, thimbleberry, and salal berry. The latter resembles in appearance and taste a large variety of the huckleberry, and affords a very delicious dessert. The thimbleberry is almost exactly like the raspberry in size and appearance, but grows on a larger and less prickly bush. Salmonberries grow on very large shrubs, and are named from their color. They are similar in size and shape to blackberries, but not quite so palatable.
    Game is very scarce in this neighborhood. The deer and elk have been frightened back into the mountains; there are a few, however, remaining. A friend has a very large pair of elk horns. It was a problem to me how the elk could run through the bushes with such immense appendages, but after seeing in what way they are adapted to the head I became convinced of their advantage--they are sloped backwards so as protect the head, neck and body from the thickets. A few panthers, martins, black bears, and otters may be seen occasionally. There are two varieties of the latter animal--the land and sea otter. The skin of the latter is much the more valuable. There are some wolves or coyotes, but they are not often seen, and are not very troublesome, except in winter, when they lurk around the dwellings. Two varieties of foxes are also occasionally seen--the common gray and the silver gray; the last variety is prized very highly for its beautiful skin. A few squirrels, principally the small gray.
    There are fewer birds here than at any place I have ever been. There are pine hens, quail, partridges (Maryland pheasant) and pigeons--and ducks and geese in winter. The harbor is dotted with sea birds--such as didappers, gulls and pelicans. There is also a large fishing hawk of the eagle species, with a white head, white on tips of tail and wings, and dark body. The pine hen is so called from always being found in the pine woods. It is almost identical with the prairie hen of the States immediately east of the Rocky Mountains; it is also known as the blue grouse. I have noticed a very beautiful bird called the blue jay--it resembles very closely the jay bird of the Middle States; but its plumage is of a much darker and more brilliant hue. The hummingbird, sparrow, cedarbird and robin are also to be seen.

    July 22nd, 1855.--The steamer Columbia stopped here on the evening of the twentieth. Lieutenants G. H. Derby and Alexander Piper, U.S. Army, were on board en route for Fort Vancouver. The former gentleman belongs to the topographical engineers, and is quite celebrated as a witty writer. His productions are usually published in a California magazine called the Pioneer. He informs us of the death of Captain J. L. Folsom, Assistant Quartermaster, U.S. Army. He died on last Tuesday evening. He leaves a large estate.
    Lieutenant Kautz has involved himself in a civil suit for putting a civilian, who had been creating disturbances among the Indians on the government reserve, in the guardhouse; he confined him six days. The civil authorities have brought a suit for false imprisonment against him. He left this morning to attend his trial at Coos Bay. I am consequently in command of the post. This not being a proper duty of the medical staff, we only exercise it in the absence of all line officers. Our rank avails us in everything else but commanding. It holds good on all councils, boards, courts martial, and in selection of quarters, etc. Mr. Henry Tichenor and myself accompanied Mr. Kautz some ten miles up the coast. On our return we passed Cape Blanco, the most western portion of the United States territory. There are some forty miners engaged in digging gold dust on the beach at that point.
    The gold is found disseminated in finely divided particles in the sand; and is separated by running the latter through a machine, consisting of a "long tom," and "drop riffle." The former is a wooden trough three feet broad, six feet long, and two inches deep, with a plate of sheet iron at one end perforated with several hundred holes. This is placed so as to form an inclined plane. At its lower end, and partly under it, is the "drop riffle." This consists of two side pieces holding a number of open boxes, one above and behind the other, like a stairway. In each of these boxes is a gate corresponding to the "rise" in a step, which can be elevated or lowered so as to be brought any required distance from the surface of the mercury in the cell of the box. A stream of water is let upon the "long tom," and the coarse sand thrown in by shovels full. The finer portions of it are washed through the sieve-like end of the "tom," and carried over the surface of the mercury in the "drop riffle." The same being brought in close contact with the mercury by means of the sliding gate or drop-board, its gold dust is thus more readily united with this metal, forming what is called an amalgam. When the mercury is sufficiently impregnated, it is poured into iron pans and the gold allowed to settle. The sediment is then placed in a linen bag and compressed; thus separating another portion of the mercury. The remainder is termed "amalgam proper," which contains about forty per centum of gold. The final step in the process is to place this into a retort, and by means of heat evaporate all the mercury. By this process very little of the latter is injured by oxidation, and it can, of course, be used again.
    A constant supply of water is, in this mode of mining, necessary; and when it cannot be obtained from a stream sufficiently high to be conducted to the "tom" through a wooden trough, it is got from a shallow well by means of a carrying pump, worked either by horse or steam power--usually the former. There are some claims at Cape Blanco which "turn out very well." The best belong to a Mr. Coffee, who is said to be running through one machine, where are employed only three or four hands, about fifty dollars a day. And this, too, a regular thing.
    The sand beach differs materially from what are termed solid or quartz diggings in the regularity of finding gold. In the latter it is frequently necessary to work five and six months without getting a grain, then perhaps a vein is struck which turns out hundreds of dollars a day for a short time. But sometimes a shaft is sunk at an enormous expense without yielding anything. These shafts are usually sunk in the side of a hill, down to a level with the bed of a stream where gold dust has been found in the sand. The object is to strike the original bed of gold. The gold on the beach is also much finer than that found in the placer diggings in the interior of Oregon and California.
    It is very easy to get up an excitement about gold diggings in this country. The last steamer was crowded with passengers for the newly discovered mines at Fort Colville in Washington Territory; they are represented as being vastly rich. There is doubtless much gold in that region, but, judging from the manner in which such things usually terminate in this country, about one-half of those on their way there will return in a few months utterly disappointed; for the richness of mines is always exaggerated by speculators. Without going any further we will take Fort Orford as an average case, by way of illustration. About fourteen months ago a party of five or six men discovered gold at a place now called "Jackson's Diggings," some thirty miles from this place. They worked five or six weeks, but secured barely enough to compensate them for their trouble. However, they were determined on making a speculation out of it. So after securing their claims they managed to return here just about the time the steamer stopped on her way to San Francisco. Knowing that if they exhibited the gold publicly everybody would accuse them of trying to get up an excitement for speculation, it was at first confidentially shown to a few persons, who divulged the matter to their particular friends, and they in turn to theirs, until everybody learned the wonderful secret. It was represented that this gold was found after a single day's work. In a few hours everybody who could get away from Fort Orford were on their way to the mines. The merchants of this place assisted in the furor. Of course the steamship carried down glowing accounts of the richness of the mines. And 'tis said that the agents of the line got up flaming handbills, which were posted through the streets of San Francisco. It at least turned out gold for them; for their ship was crowded with passengers as long as the bubble lasted. Persons arrived here by hundreds; purchased pans, shovels and picks; and, for the want of other conveyance, started for the magic spot on foot. The majority being city clerks, and others of that class, who had never walked a half day in their lives, soon began to break down, and consequently to throw away such articles as they thought could be best spared. About every third man would say to his party, "Well, we want only one pick, I am going to throw mine away."
    On arriving they found gold, it is true, but not enough to pay the cost of the claims. So the little bubble bursted, the discoverers, the merchants, and steamship company being the only parties who made anything. At the present time there are not more than a dozen persons working at the place. In the significant cant of the country, the "diggings have gone in."
    Now for a story somewhat different, but still illustrative of the ruse de guerre constantly practiced in this country. A party of three men came here a short time after the above excitement, and went to work at Cape Blanco, the place spoken of above as being within eight miles of this place. After working a few days they came to the village and purchased a few articles on credit, with a promise to pay on the following week. At the appointed time the first bill was settled, and another contracted with the same limitation as to the time of settlement. Thus they worked on, as it were, from hand to mouth; and when asked how they were doing, replied, "Wall, we guess we are making a living, but it is better to do this than starve."
    At the expiration of some seven months these men came to the village with thirty thousand dollars, which they had got out at that spot; sold their claims at an exorbitant price, and left the country. The purchasers found the claims pretty well exhausted; and by the process then in operation could not make them pay well. But since the introduction of the drop riffle they are made to yield, on reworking, pretty good wages. And, by prospecting in the neighborhood, some of the miners have found new places, which turn out handsomely. As, for instance, that of Mr. Coffee's, alluded to above.
    The steamer Columbia, Captain William Dall, touched here this morning on her downward passage; brings glorious accounts of the gold mines at Fort Colville. Almost all the settlers in the upper part of Oregon, and in Washington Territories, have started for the mines. Of course all the vessels bound from San Francisco to Oregon will, for the next four months, be crowded with passengers inflated with golden dreams.
    August 2nd, 1855.--There has been a coolness existing between Lieutenant K. [Kautz], of this post, and two persons in the village, named Smith and [James McCall] Sutton--the former a lawyer, the latter justice of the peace. Lieutenant K. started for the town today after dinner, and being apprehensive of an encounter, took with him a large cane. In a short time thereafter the constable of the place, Seth Lount, came running to garrison in great perturbation, and begged me, for God's sake, to hurry downtown, as the Lieutenant had been shot through the heart by Justice Sutton. My first impulse was to order a corporal's guard to assist in arresting the perpetrator of the deed, but as a few moments' delay might be the death of my friend, I of course hurried to him first. To my astonishment, on arriving I found him sitting up in a chair as composed as if nothing had happened. The whole town had concentrated there in the meantime.
    On inquiry, I learned that S---- had commenced a quarrel with K----, and in the course of it had used language which the latter had construed into being called a liar, whereupon he raised his cane with the intention of striking the former, who drew a pistol and fired. Lieutenant K. immediately dropped on the floor, and on being picked up placed his hand over his heart. The bystanders, thinking the shot had taken effect in his chest, immediately sent for me. It was discovered in the meantime that the ball had not struck him--and, probably, not even grazed him. From where the ball hit the floor it is impossible that it could have passed higher up than the pelvis. Still, the expansive force of the gases, generated by the combustion of the charge of powder in the gun, striking against the pit of the stomach, may have had something to do with the result. The most reasonable solution of the problem, however, is, that it was a nervous shock produced by the mental certainty that, if fired at with the pistol almost touching his body, death would be inevitable. The following is a case in point, taken from Guthrie's Military Surgery:
    "During a rapid advance of part of the British Army in Portugal, one of the skirmishers suddenly came upon his adversary, with only a small bank between them; both parties presented, the muzzles of the pieces nearly touching; both fired, and both fell. The British soldier after a minute or two, thinking himself hit, but still finding himself capable of moving, got up, and found his adversary dead--on the opposite side of the bank. I saw him immediately afterwards in considerable alarm, being conscious of a blow somewhere, but which after a diligent search proved to be only a graze on the underside of the arm; yet the certainty he was in of being killed, from the respective position of the parties, had such an effect upon him at the moment of receiving this trifling injury, as nearly to deprive him, for a short time, of his powers of volition; whereas, had the wound been received from a concealed or distant enemy, it would in all probability have been little noticed."
    August 23rd, 1855.--Captain T. J. Cram, U.S. Topographical Engineer; Dr. Hubbard; and Mr. Wells, editor of the Alta California, arrived on the Columbia this morning. Mr. W., having traveled all over the world, is an exceedingly well informed and entertaining gentleman. Captain C. was a fellow passenger on our trip from New York, and we are, of course, highly delighted to see him. He has come up simply on a visit. The other gentlemen are engaged in a coal speculation at Coos Bay. This mineral has been found there in large quantities; and of very good quality. It has also been discovered in other parts of this Territory, and is likely to turn out a handsome speculation to those who first succeed in bringing it to market, as all the coal heretofore used on this coast has been brought from the Eastern States or England.
    I perceive that the rumor heard here a few weeks since, of Indian troubles on the Klamath River, has been confirmed. There were eleven white men killed by the Indians at last accounts. The origin of the difficulty was on the part of a few drunken Indians, who attempted to maltreat some white men.
    August 26th, 1855.--General Joel Palmer, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Oregon, and Dr. Drew, sub-agent, arrived here on the twenty-fourth instant, and left this morning for Rogue River to hold a council with the Indians of this coast, with a view of forming a treaty with them for the purchase of their possessory rights to the soil, and their removal to an Indian reserve to be set apart for them higher up the coast.

    Having received a dispatch from General Palmer that a disturbance had occurred between the miners and Indians near the council grounds on Rogue River, Lieutenant Kautz and myself repaired thither, and returned on the first instant.
    Leaving Fort Orford on the twenty-ninth ultimo, we arrived on the "ground" the same evening, after a journey of thirty miles over the roughest road I have ever traveled. For two-thirds of the distance the rider is in constant peril of neck and limb. Woe to him if his animal makes a misstep; his journey to the bottom of some gorge would excel the velocity of steam. At one place it is necessary to ride across a stream on a log--a short, broad one, it is true, but still a log, and should your horse make a careless step a heavy tumble would be the consequence at least. In traveling up one mountain gorge it is necessary to cross a creek seventeen times in a distance of about four miles. The trail then turns abruptly westward, and the broad Pacific lies before, and three hundred feet beneath us. Yes, literally beneath us; for its bank is perpendicular, and the trail within three feet of its brink. The view is grand. Niagara itself, of which the roaring breakers below remind us, is not more sublime.
    Again the road meanders through the mountains for a few miles, and then descends to the water's edge. It now continues for a few miles along the sand beach, which is admirable traveling at low tide. Here are to be seen thousands of gulls, ducks and pelicans. We were much amused at some of the latter, who had gormandized to such an extent that they could scarcely skim the waves. One old fellow was unable to surmount more than a single breaker at a time, and would occasionally be struck by its foaming crest and launched far in the rear. There is some mining done along this portion of the beach, but not much, except at the mouth of Rogue River. The gold is distributed in such minute particles through the sand that but little can be got out by the ordinary mining process. This whole coast for a hundred miles in extent will, however, be an immense field for mining some twenty years hence, when labor becomes cheaper, and machinery more perfect.
    The council ground was located in a beautiful myrtle grove on the south bank of Rogue River, three miles from its mouth. The object of the council was to form a treaty with the various bands of Indians belonging to the Port Orford district, with the view of settling them, together with all other bands and tribes living on the coast of Oregon, on an Indian reserve; that is, a tract of land set aside for them exclusively on which the whites are not permitted to reside. This system of disposing of the Indians has been for many years adopted by our government. It is the only plan to prevent their entire extermination. The manner in which it is carried out is too well known to require description. That some system of this kind is requisite is but too painfully felt by every man of sensibility and intelligence, who has ever been in our new Territories and seen how badly the Indians and whites get along together. This is more apparent on our Pacific Coast than east of the Rocky Mountains, for the excitement of the gold mines has filled California and portions of Oregon more rapidly than any other parts of the United States territory, and, consequently, brought the whites and Indians in more frequent conflict.
    The donation act of Congress, which grants to actual settlers from one hundred and sixty to six hundred and forty acres of land--the amount varying according as certain provisions in the Act are complied with--when and wherever they choose to locate it, without having previously extinguished the Indian title, is another prolific source of trouble peculiar to Oregon Territory; hence the difficulties are innumerable. And what makes matters worse, some of the rougher class of miners will submit to no control in their intercourse with the Indians.
    If an Indian steals anything from, or hurts one of these persons, his life is generally the forfeit. The Indians around here formerly acted upon the same principle, but their frequent conflicts with the whites have so intimidated them that they are now generally inclined to peace. They have sufficient bad and desperate fellows among them, however, to keep their bands in constant difficulty.
    An instance occurred during the session of the council of a most painful character--the more so as it terminated in the death of three American citizens, together with two Indians, and came within an ace of not only breaking up all further negotiations with the Indians, but of bringing on another Rogue River war. The circumstances are these:
    An Indian and a white man had a quarrel, which resulted in the latter being wounded in the shoulder by the former. The Indian fled. Captain Ben. Wright, a sub-Indian Agent, being on the treaty ground for the purpose of assembling the Indians preparatory for the treaty, happening to hear of the difficulty, and wishing to prevent further bloodshed, went personally and arrested the Indian with the view of having him properly tried, and punishing him for his misdemeanor if found guilty. At night, whilst he, some others, and the prisoner, were lying asleep in a small shanty, a shot was fired by an unknown person, which shattered the prisoner's arm. Wright, having dressed his wounds, placed him between himself and the wall; thus with his own person affording protection to the Indian. The night passed off quietly, but as it was evident that the populace intended getting forcible possession of him in the morning with the view of hanging him, the Agent rose early and took his prisoner to the treaty ground, and there placed him in a small hut. He had scarcely done so when the mob assembled to the number of sixty persons, armed with Colt's revolvers, and demanded the prisoner. Wright stood in the door, and by his determined manner and strong arguments managed to keep them at bay until the arrival of a detachment of fifteen U.S. troops, who had opportunely reached the opposite side of the river; and for whom he secretly dispatched a messenger. The prisoner was then turned over to their protection. The crowd hung around for some time blackguarding the soldiers, but finally dispersed.
    On the following day, the twenty-seventh of August, a constable took the prisoner in charge with the intention of taking him before a magistrate some three miles down the river. At the solicitation of the constable, and request of General Palmer, General Superintendent of Indians in Oregon, who had arrived in the meantime, a corporal's guard of troops was furnished the prisoner. After the latter had been properly committed by the magistrate to stand his trial at the next term of court, he was remanded to the corporal for conveyance to prison. As the guard was ascending Rogue River late at night (moonlight) three men came alongside. The corporal ordered them to keep off, but instead of doing so they commenced firing into his boat, killing the prisoner, who was at the time between the corporal's knees, and another Indian rowing the boat.
    The corporal then commanded his men to return the fire. The three men were instantly killed, each receiving a ball through his chest. The five corpses were taken to camp. The Indians fled from the council ground in consternation. An attack was expected on the general's camp by the exasperated citizens. A gentleman was dispatched to the mouth of Rogue River to explain the matter to the Vigilance Committee. On arriving there he ascertained that the three men, who had met such an untimely fate by their rashness, were to have been supported by a strong party in another boat. But this party is said to have returned home and gone to bed after hearing the fatal shots, without even ascertaining the fate of their companions. The miners composing the Vigilance Committee were, of course, much excited, but after understanding the matter thoroughly came to the conclusion that the soldiers acted only in the discharge of their duty. This was also the verdict of the coroner's jury, held on the deceased the following day.
    The event is to be deplored. But it will probably prove a lesson to a large class of persons in this community who wish to take law into their own hands, and execute it in accordance to the dictates of interest or passion. It is probable that the Indian in this case was to blame; if so, he certainly would have met with proper punishment when tried by a jury of Americans. Why then attempt to frustrate the ends of justice by mob violence?
    The Indians returned to the ground again on the thirtieth to the number of twelve hundred and twenty, and after having signed the treaty received from the agents various presents of blankets, calicoes, kettles, shirts, pants, coats, beads, knives, hatchets, tobacco, etc. On being told that these were given them by our great Tyee (chief), the President of the United States, they supposed he must be a very rich man, and, of course, have a great many wives. When informed that he had only one, they were very much surprised. Their chiefs usually have as many wives as they can take care of--sometimes as high as fifteen or twenty. The men generally are permitted to have more than one. The women, on the contrary, are limited to one husband. As it is customary among all savage nations, the squaws perform all the drudgery; while the men either fish, hunt, or idle away their time in smoking. The former are said to have been chaste before the whites came among them. If so, their principles have undergone a radical change. In number the females predominate--owing to the fact of the males being killed in a larger proportion by the casualties of war, etc. They are all slaves in the strict sense of the word, and are sold like negroes among the whites. The nearest relative, such as the father, mother, brother or husband, holds the right of disposal. Two or three blankets, a canoe, or a horse, will buy any of them. Here is a wide field for the talents of the women's rights society.
    I have never before seen a tribe that had not something characteristic in their dress; which usually consists of a buffalo robe, a blanket thrown over the shoulders, buckskin moccasins, and leggings. Such is the dress of all the tribes that at present roam the prairies and deserts east of the Rocky Mountains. And such is said to have been the attire of the degenerated race of which we are now speaking. But these marks of distinction have passed away. In this whole council you couldn't perceive two Indians dressed precisely alike. One man's apparel consisted of simply a coat; another, of drawers; a third, of pants; a fourth, a jacket; a fifth, a soldier's uniform; a sixth, a pair of boots and a breech-clout, and occasionally you might see one dressed a la American. With the above articles they wring as many changes and combinations as the chimes of some of our fashionable church bells. One of the most amusing spectacles of all was that of a little chubby boy with a soldier's jacket, reaching to his knees, and having down its back seam a broad scarlet stripe.
    The squaws adopt the same principles, or rather no principles at all, in their attire. Many of them, however, have learned to make dresses similar to those of the whites. Like all Indian women, they are passionately fond of ornaments. Some of the belles have as many as twenty strings of beads around their necks. There is a peculiar bead-like shell, about an inch long, obtained near Puget Sound, which is preferred to anything else. Instead of ear-bobs they wear dangling from the middle cartilages of their noses varicolored shells and beads--which may be termed nose-bobs. Some of the old spinsters substitute a long painted feather stuck transversely; signifying, perhaps, that they may be easily "caught."
    At the Indian villages one may sometimes see the men, and frequently the boys, in puris naturalibus. Not so with the females. They are never, not even the little papooses or babies, without some substitute for the fig leaf of Mother Eve. The majority of both men and women go bareheaded; though a common headdress of the latter is a conical basket made of the inner bark of the birch tree. This also serves them for a pail, the slits being woven so closely that when swollen by moisture the vessel is perfectly water-tight. And, of course, it is also used as a basket proper--particularly to carry berries in. There are many varieties of the latter, and I am very fond of them; but to eat them when brought in these baskets sometimes requires more courage than I am master of; especially if I have previously observed the owner in the interesting occupation of searching for and eating pediculi--yes, eating them, but it is said they do it out of revenge.
    Their staple article of food is the salmon, which are as plentiful in the Oregon rivers as herring and shad in the Potomac; Rogue River especially abounds in them. The agent issued them to the Indians attending the council as a substitute for beef. One haul with a seine at the mouth of the river, when the tide is setting in, is sufficient to last twelve hundred Indians a fortnight. They have some strange superstitions about these fish; and are never known to catch them until salmonberries--which are also an article of food--are ripe; or to cut them open with a knife in dressing them--for this purpose a sharp stone is used. An infraction of this custom is an unpardonable offense to the salmon Tyee--chief or god. What they can't consume whilst fresh are dried for winter use. Their manner of cooking a salmon is worthy of adoption by voyageurs. Having dressed it properly, it is laid open longitudinally, and spread out on two sticks, arranged in the form of a cross; the longer and larger one being sharpened at one end, and stuck in the ground at a convenient distance from the fire. It thus becomes broiled much better than when cooked on a gridiron; the use of which indispensable article of a civilized cuisine is as little known among them as the manufacture of flour, which they imagine is found by the white man in the beds of rivers. They usually catch salmon in weirs and cast nets. The latter is also employed in the sea in catching a species of small fish resembling sardines, which go in vast schools along the shore. Their presence is indicated by gulls and other seabirds who hover in their vicinity. Swimming usually near the surface, they are readily secured by suddenly dipping the net under them and raising it up. But for sea-fishing a hook and line is commonly used. The latter is made of birch bark, and the former consists of a bone and nail bent at right angles to each other. When a fish is hooked he is gently drawn to the surface of the water, and a basket placed beneath to secure him.
    They are also very fond of shellfish, such as oysters, clams, mussels, etc. Their mode of cooking these, as well as their favorite camas and cowas, is to dig a pit into which wood and stones are thrown, and a fire kindled. When the wood is consumed the articles to be cooked are thrown in upon the hot stones and covered over with dirt. They will eat any kind of animal matter, and are not particular whether it has been killed or has died a natural death. The carcass of a sea lion floated ashore near Port Orford a short time ago. Like buzzards they gathered around it from far and near, and had a glorious feast. At the proper season berries afford them a good substitute for bread; such as the blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, salal-berry, salmonberry, thimbleberry, and red and black huckleberries. Those of them not living immediately on the coast subsist in part upon elk, bear and deer. But as they are notoriously lazy, and moreover have but few guns in consequence of an Oregon law prohibiting firearms from being sold to them, their success in hunting is not very great. They are not such expert marksmen as the Indians living east of the Coast Range of mountains--especially the upper Rogue River and Modoc Indians. My description has reference to the Indians living on or near the coast; and especially of two tribes residing in the Port Orford district, but will apply to all those on the coast west of the Coast Range of mountains from the northern to the southern boundary of the Territory. There are, perhaps, three thousand, all of whom, together with most of the upper Rogue River Indians, are to be moved on one reservation twenty by seventy miles in extent. They are split up into small bands of from thirty to one hundred and fifty souls; each of which has a head man, called Tyee (chief), who gains control over them simply by his bravery or wealth. With few exceptions the position is neither hereditary nor elective. Their language varies in different tribes; but there is a jargon, introduced among them by the Hudson Bay Company, that they all understand. It consists of about two hundred and fifty words, taken from the English, French and Chinook Indian languages. This jargon is to them what the pantomime is to the tribes east of the Rocky Mountains; but is not an entire substitute, for the latter is used to some extent.
    Like all Indians, they are very thriftless, and literally carry out the idea of letting the morrow take care of itself. Those around the white settlements will occasionally hire themselves out for a few hours or days at a time. But when eight or ten dollars are thus earned they are entirely too rich to work any more until that is exhausted.
    A man is considered wealthy who possesses a few skins, blankets, a canoe, or a horse; very few of them own the latter, their usual mode of transportation being in a canoe. This is made of cedar, by first burning it out with hot stones and shaping it with a knife or hatchet. It is usually two feet broad by twelve long, but the Indians in the upper part of Oregon, and near Puget Sound, in Washington Territory, have much larger ones--some of them being sixty feet in length with a beam of eight, and are said to be beautiful specimens of naval architecture. There is nothing remarkable or peculiar in the general appearance of the Coast Indians. Their height is rather below the medium. Heads will compare favorably in size with those of Anglo-Americans; retreating foreheads; nose rather inclined to flatness; thick lips, high cheekbones--and dark eyes and hair, of course. The latter is long in both sexes, and allowed to dangle down over their shoulders. The men don't seem so particular about abstracting their beards as most other Indians--some few of them even allow it to grow. Both sexes have small hands and feet. They follow the universal practice of tattooing and painting. But instead of trying to imitate nature like our belles, the squaws daub the paint on like a house painter. And when in full dress, which approximates to no dress at all, as for a dance, all the primary colors are represented on one person. We witnessed several of their balls at the council ground. A most ludicrous sight. The spectators being seated on the ground, leaving an elliptical space in the middle for the dancers, some seventy or eighty persons will enter, and singing a he-ah…… ah…… ah, he-ah…… ah…… ah, will commence a succession of bobbing up and down, both feet at a time, body slightly bent, and limbs as rigid as marble statues. They all spring in unison--and keep pretty good time. The same dance is kept up the whole night, with proper intervals of rest. Their war dance is somewhat different.
    Their houses are of the most primitive order. A single shed of bark, with a log or brush wall, and dirt floor; size usually about ten feet by twelve. In one of these are crowded from ten to fifteen persons; huddled, in bad weather, around a fire, which is invariably built in the center of the building, with no particular outlet for the smoke. No wonder they suffer so dreadfully from sore eyes. But there is another prolific cause of this malady which needn't be mentioned in this unscientific sketch. They suffer much from consumption; and the smallpox and measles make a clean sweep whenever they appear among them. This is more owing to their method of treatment than any peculiar virulence of the disease. The patient is placed in a "sweat-house," and whilst reeking in perspiration is suddenly taken out and plunged into a stream of the coldest water that is to be found. Besides sweating they use certain kinds of herbs. But incantations are the favorite remedies. If the patient has a snake in his stomach, or be possessed of a demon in the form of a rabbit or wolf, the doctor, with grave aspect, seats himself beside the couch, and with his hands under the blanket will commence a series of gesticulations, groans, howls, and screams, until the excitement is raised to a proper pitch, then, drawing forth his hands, suddenly throws upon the floor a dead snake, wolf, or other animal. The patient being now dispossessed is expected to recover. Should the laws of nature determine otherwise, the poor doctor's life pays the forfeit, unless he can compromise the matter with the relatives by paying the value of the deceased. Being largely feed [sic] he is in honor bound to take the consequences. So it would seem that not even martyrdom itself will stay the current of quackery.
    When an Indian dies he is thrown into a pit, together with all his goods and chattels. To prevent the grave being robbed these are generally injured in such a manner as to render them useless to anybody but the dead, to whom they are supposed to be indispensable in their heavenly journey. As no attempts have yet been made to enlighten these tribes upon the glorious truths of Christianity, they, of course, know nothing of the promises in the Bible. They believe in a good and evil spirit. The former is called the great Tyee, and reigns in heaven. His wrath is signified by hard winters, scarcity of food, and epidemics. His satisfaction by a healthy season, mild winters, and an abundance of food. Besides him there are numerous subordinate Tyees inhabiting particular earthly localities, and having jurisdiction over certain animals, mountains and streams. Heaven is to them either a region covered with eternal verdure--its plains and mountains teeming with elk and deer, and its crystal streams abounding in luscious salmon--according as they happen to live on the coast or in the interior.
    The Indians having signed the treaty, the council was dissolved, and we all started for home, where we arrived yesterday afternoon.

    Sunday, Sept. 2nd, 1855.--Mob law seems to be the order of the day. La grande speculation of Monsieur Chevalieur having turned out a failure, as predicted, a crowd of some sixty or seventy persons assembled in front of his house in Port Orford, and divided his goods and chattels sans ceremonie, and then voted him sixty lashes, provided he does not leave this country by the next steamer.
    Monday, Sept. 3rd, 1855.--The noise was kept up in the village all night. It seems that after frequent importunities Mr. Dart gave permission to some of the crowd to be "treated" at his expense. When he went to foot the bill this morning he found that the mob had run him in debt one hundred and forty dollars. It has been raining all day. The first rain we have had since May, excepting a slight shower last week.
    Saturday, Sept. 9th, 1855.--Steamer arrived at four this morning. Brought Company H, Third Artillery, commanded by Lieutenant J. G. Chandler, to relieve detachment of Company M, at this post. Lieutenant A. V. Kautz is ordered to take the latter to the Presidio; thence proceed to Fort Jones on temporary duty.
    Monday, Sept. 11th, 1855.--Three men started out in the bay fishing this morning. A strong northwester springing up, they were unable to manage their boat, which was gradually floating seaward. A party of staunch sailors in town, perceiving their distress, went to their rescue. They succeeded in saving the men, but left the boat adrift. The latter was afterwards secured by a schooner which was sent after it.
    Sunday, October 14th, 1855.--The Columbia arrived from Portland late yesterday afternoon. She brings an account of an outbreak among the Indians in Washington Territory. For the last few months we have heard floating rumors of preparations for intended hostilities by the large Indian tribes in that section of country, but as the border settlers are somewhat like the boy in the fable, always crying wolf, we have rarely been able to tell when they really were in danger. But at present there is no doubt of an Indian war having commenced. In consequence of the reports of various persons on their way to the Colville mines having been killed by the Indians, an agent was sent out by Superintendent Joel Palmer to ascertain their correctness, and he himself was murdered by the Indians. On this news reaching Fort Dalles, Maj. Granville O. Haller, U.S. Army, who had just got in from his expedition to the Snake Indian country, where he had been to demand the murderers of the emigrants last year, started out with a command of a hundred men to bring the murderers to an account for their atrocities. He had been out but three or four days, when a messenger brought the startling news of his command having been surrounded by the Indians at a point about twenty-five miles from the Dalles. His position was upon a hill, with ravines and thickets around him. His troops and animals had been without water for forty-eight hours. The Indians were constantly firing upon them. He was enabled to send a messenger through the ranks of the Indians in the night, who reached the Dalles Monday, October 8th, at eight P.M. Immediately on the arrival of the express at the Dalles, Lieutenant Day started with the remaining troops at that post to the succor of Maj. Haller. Maj. H. calls for large reinforcements to aid him. It is reported that a requisition has been made on the Governors of Oregon and Washington Territories for volunteers. How many is not known--some say one thousand, others five hundred.
    The hostile feeling among the Indians is supposed to extend to several tribes. Proposals, it is said, have been made to all the Indians east of the Cascade Range to unite in a general war of extermination against the whites. But the number that have really leagued together is not known. The Yakimas and Klickitats seem to be the prime movers in the affair. In order to induce a war spirit they report all sorts of Indian wrongs, and threaten hostilities against such tribes as will not join them. It is thought the disaffection is so widely diffused among them that one flush of victory on their part against the United States troops would induce nearly all of the tribes to unite in a general war. Hence much anxiety is felt in the result of Haller's expedition against them. They are abundantly supplied with arms and ammunition; and are thought to be good warriors; differing vastly in this respect from the Coast Indians of lower Oregon. We are expecting orders by the next steamer, which will arrive in a few days, to proceed to the seat of war.
    Tuesday, October 16th, 1855.--Lieutenant August V. Kautz, Fourth Infantry, who left here with ten men about eight days ago, to survey a road between this place and Fort Lane, returned last night about twelve o'clock to get arms and ammunition for his party. He reports that on reaching the Big Bend of Rogue River, forty-five miles from Fort Orford, he found the settlers making port-holes in their houses, preparatory to an attack from the Indians of upper Rogue River Valley. He learned from them that being advised by some friendly Indians to leave the place, as the tribes above there were hostile, but not believing the reports they started up the river to ascertain the truth of the matter. On arriving in sight of a trader's establishment they saw the building in flames, and the Indians in a war dance around it. And that they were further told by the friendly Indians that all the tribes in upper Rogue River Valley had united in war against the whites. This report, together with those received from Jacksonville last mail of the disaffection of the Indians in that region in consequence, of the hanging of several of their head men at Yreka for murder, indicates that trouble is brewing in lower Oregon also. These Indians had been arrested by the United States troops at Fort Lane, and turned over to the civil authorities of California, who, it is presumed, gave them a fair trial.
    Of course everybody in this section is excited--all sorts of reports are circulating about small parties being cut off, but I have lived in an Indian country too long to put confidence in more than one-twentieth part of the Indian atrocities that are reported.
    October 23rd, 1855.--The Columbia stopped this morning on her upward trip, having on board a large number of passengers, and seventy United States troops, under the command of Captain E. O. C. Ord, en route for the seat of Indian difficulties in Washington Territory. We are not ordered, for the reason, I suppose, that trouble is apprehended in this neighborhood. I see from a Yreka paper (Siskiyou County, Cal.) that the Indians of that part of California, and in upper Rogue River Valley, are truly in open hostilities. That the United States troops under Brevet Major Edward H. Fitzgerald, of the Second Dragoons, have had an encounter with them--killing some thirty, with a loss of about ten of the soldiers. The volunteers have also had a fight with them. So it seems that a second Rogue River war is upon us. We will probably be unable to hear from the outbreak in Western Oregon, and Washington Territory, until the return steamer. The Indians immediately around Port Orford are, so far, quiet. All the settlers within sixty miles of here have retired to the mouth of Rogue River and this place.
    October 28th, 1855.--The steamer touched here on her downward trip this afternoon, and brings the news of Major Haller's defeat. After being surrounded by the Indians for twenty-four hours, he fought his way through their ranks--but was pursued to the Dalles--losing in the action five men, and having seventeen wounded; he also lost his howitzer. The fight lasted nearly three days. Lieutenant Day did not succeed in joining him. Success has thus added many others to the hostile tribes. It bids fair to become the greatest Indian war we have had for many years.
    The Governors of Oregon and Washington territories have called out a thousand volunteers, who will be ready for the field by the fifth of November. These, with three hundred regulars, will make a force of thirteen hundred men. Major G. J. Rains, Fourth Infantry, with five hundred men, expects to take the field against the enemy about the fifth of November. The Indians are said to be posted in large numbers near the battle field of Haller, but they will undoubtedly flee to the mountains if hard pushed.
    We have received preliminary notice to get our command ready by the next steamer, to proceed to the seat of war.

    November 6th, 1855.--A week ago news was brought here that Lieutenant Kautz and party, who were surveying a road between this place and Fort Lane, and a company from the mouth of Rogue River, who were looking out a road between that point and Yreka, were cut off by the Indians, and that the hostile bands from above were within a day's march of the village at the mouth of Rogue River, which they intended to attack--thence proceed to take Port Orford.
    This rumor created a universal stampede among the whites who reside at Port Orford, and the mouth of Rogue River. Their scare alarmed the friendly Indians around here, and the few acts of precaution that they were induced to take from fear were construed by the frightened whites as indications of hostilities. What would have been the result heaven only knows had not one of the supposed lost parties--the one from Rogue River--arrived safely home. The excitable public,thus finding a part of the rumor false, were led to believe that it might all be so. The excitement has now greatly abated. It has been the cause of a good deal of inconvenience and distress to the settlers. One poor invalid, Mr. Long, was hurried down to Port Orford so rapidly that he died a few hours after his arrival. He was one of the oldest and most respected persons of this neighborhood. Everybody turned out at his funeral yesterday afternoon. There being no proper person to read the burial ceremony, I performed this solemn duty at the request of the relatives.
    November 19th, 1855.--For the last fortnight the weather has been exceedingly unpleasant--raining almost incessantly, with strong winds from the southwest. We have been looking out for the mail steamer during the whole of this time, but on account of the storm she has probably been afraid to venture in. We have thus been entirely cut off from news, at least till last night; which is a great privation during these exciting times. However, the firing of cannon in the little village near here yesterday afternoon indicated something new; and on looking out of our window we found it to be a salute to the return of Lieutenant Kautz and party, who had been reported lost. This was cheering news--for we had grown very anxious about his safety--particularly as he had gone through the heart of a hostile Indian country with only ten men and a guide, and had overstayed his time three weeks.
    On his way to Fort Lane, and when within forty-five miles of that place, he accidentally came upon a hostile band of Indians, who attacked him, and killed two of his men, and wounded another and himself. He made good his retreat to Bates' Station, where he arrived on the night of the twenty-fifth of October. Leaving his men there, he immediately proceeded to Fort Lane for reinforcements. Brevet Major E. H. Fitzgerald, with sixty men of that post, was ordered to proceed against the Indians; but, on arriving at the ground, he found them so safely posted that it would have been useless to make an attack upon them with his command.
    After reporting these circumstances to the commanding officer at Fort Lane, Captain Andrew J. Smith, the whole of the force at that post, about one hundred and twenty men; and some two hundred and twenty-five volunteers; were got in readiness, and marched against the Indians. They arrived on the ground on the thirtieth of October, and after fighting the Indians for nearly two days, and finding it impossible to dislodge them, gave up the attack. They intended making another effort on the ninth of this month. After this fight was over, Lieutenant Kautz and party, who had participated in it, returned to this post via Crescent City. He informs us that the mail steamer stood off that village for a short time on last Saturday, but, being unable to land either freight or passengers, proceeded on to Portland. He was informed that there were troops on board--also General Wool and staff. And that orders have been issued for the troops at this place to proceed to the scene of difficulties in Washington Territory.
    Our Indian affairs are assuming a serious aspect on the other side of the mountains as well as on the Pacific Coast. General Harney, with some five companies of infantry, two of cavalry, and one of artillery, met with a party of Sioux on the Blue Water River, near Fort Laramie, and routed them completely--having killed about ninety men, and taken several hundred squaws prisoners.
    December 7th, 1855.--Since last writing, very little of importance has occurred in this vicinity. The Indians of this district are quiet, except at the Coquille, where there are slight indications of an outbreak. But if the settlers there act prudently they need fear no trouble for the present. We have heard nothing from the war in Washington Territory since the thirtieth of October. The troops were then on their march against the Indians, who had taken their position near the ground where Major Haller was defeated. A great fight was expected in a few days. We, of course, feel anxious to learn the result.
    A mail is usually received here once a fortnight from that section of country; but an accident has occurred to the mail steamer California, which should have been down three weeks ago. Rumor has it that she collapsed a flue, and caught fire in the Columbia River. The extent of the damage is not known. Not returning to San Francisco in due time, the steamship company sent another vessel, the Columbia, Captain Leroy, after her. This vessel passed here last Sunday week, and should have been down six days ago. She has probably gone by in a gale. For six weeks there has scarcely been a day without a storm of wind and rain from the southwest. During the last few days it has stormed almost incessantly--accompanied by hail, thunder and lightning. The latter we have here mainly in winter; thus differing from every other climate I have ever been in. The thermometer at present ranges between thirty-five and forty.
    December 24th, 1855.--We have had no mail from Portland later than the twenty-eighth of October, and no news from San Francisco since the arrival of the Columbia on the twenty-fifth ultimo. As these are the only two sources through which news can reach us, we have consequently been entirely cut off from the world for nearly a month. There has been more stormy weather within the past five weeks than I have ever experienced in the same length of time--in fact it has been storming almost incessantly--at least until day before yesterday. The rainfall in this month is already 19.6 inches--an unusual quantity even for this country. The largest measurement in any previous month, for the last three years, is said to have been sixteen inches. Last night was also colder than it has been for several years--thermometer twenty-five degrees. There has been considerable hail, and even a little snow. The mountains near here are covered with the latter. But, notwithstanding the cool state of the atmosphere, everything around looks green. The forest trees of course do, as they belong to the pine genus; and as to grass, it is even fresher than in summer. I shouldn't be surprised, however, if the frost has nipped the blossoms of the salal, and strawberries, which were blooming a few days ago.
    The storm has now lulled, and we may look for fine weather for a few days. Today is beautiful. All nature seems to be reanimated. The larks and robins seem to enjoy it wonderfully; and even the monsters of the mighty deep appear to be aware that the elements have ceased their warfare, for they may now be seen in large numbers sporting in the harbor. 'Tis wonderful how high a whale can spout the water.
    December 25th, 1855.--Christmas! This day of all others reminds us of home. Oh, how our hearts yearn for those fond ones left behind; for the many fireside reunions of our childhood; when we felt supremely happy if our kind mothers allowed us plenty of ginger cake and lemonade. If our wants were as simple now how much happier we might be; yet, after all, there are few of us, I presume, who would be willing to exchange our present pleasures with the accompanying sorrows, for the happiness of childhood--for though our sorrows are greater our sense of pleasure is also enhanced.
    'Tis curious to look back even a few years, and see what a checkered life one leads. Two years ago I ate my Christmas dinner at Fort Arbuckle, C.N.--last year on the steamship Empire City, in the Atlantic Ocean, off Cape Hatteras--and today on the western confines of the United States territory. What has probably conduced more than anything else to our happiness of today is the arrival of the steamship Columbia, bringing us news from the States and Washington Territory. That from the former is rather of an exciting character--as a rupture with Great Britain is seriously apprehended. The precise cause of the quarrel is not known, but from the London Times we learn that the British West India fleet has been suddenly increased with the ostensible purpose of preventing a filibustering expedition, said (by the Times) to be fitting out in the United States against Ireland. If this be the real cause the British government is acting under a great mistake, as there is no such expedition fitting out in this country. It is to be hoped that the British and American authorities will act with prudence, and not involve the two greatest countries in the world in a protracted war.
    The troops in Washington Territory have had several skirmishes with Indians since the twenty-eighth of October, routing them in every instance, but not killing many. Several officers have been killed; among others Lieutenant Wm. A. Slaughter, of the Fourth Infantry. He had had a skirmish with the Indians, whom he defeated. A few days thereafter, whilst in a hut near Fort Steilacoom, not dreaming there were any Indians near him, his small party was unexpectedly fired upon by the savages, killing him and several of his men.
    It appears that the steamship California had a very hard time of it in her trip up the coast. The rumor of her having caught fire in the Columbia River is confirmed by Captain Wm. Dall, who was in command of her at the time. It seems that directly after crossing the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, she collapsed a flue, which accident caused the water from the boiler to leak into the furnace, thus suddenly generating so much steam that the door of the latter was forced open, and the fire was scattered in every direction. They succeeded in extinguishing the fire before much damage was done; but the ship, in the meantime, came within an ace of stranding. After being repaired at Astoria, and completing her trip to Vancouver, she was engaged by General Wool to take troops to Steilacoom--whence she proceeded to San Francisco. On her downward trip she encountered on the twenty-seventh of November a terrific gale off the mouth of the Columbia; and came very near being foundered. The gale was from the southeast, and lasted with unabated fury for seventy hours. The engine being disabled, the ship was put under sail, and reached San Francisco after an extremely long passage of twenty-one days. Only one person drowned--the third mate.
    January 3rd, 1856.--The steamer Columbia passed down last Sunday, having gone no further than Astoria, in consequence of the Columbia River being frozen over; this is an unusual severe winter. The back country is covered with deep snow--and we have even had a few spits at this point--and the thermometer one night as low as twenty degrees above zero, Fahrenheit. The weather, however, for the last eight or ten days has been beautiful. Exactly twenty inches of rain fell last month. No wonder the rivers have been unusually high.
    The Indians in this district, with one exception, have remained quiet during the present war. The imprudence of the whites came near rendering the bands of the Coquille hostile. It seems that a rascally Englishman (Woodruff) endeavored to incite the Indians to war by telling them that the Americans intended killing them all off, and succeeded in getting them to steal some flour which had been placed under his protection. He subsequently fled to Rogue River Valley. The whites on the Coquille and Coos Bay then formed a volunteer company and killed four Indians. Indian agent Ben Wright, from Port Orford, arriving in the meantime, managed to quiet the matter, and it is to be hoped that it will end without further bloodshed. Were it not for the untiring energy of the Indian agent here, supported by a company of United States troops, the Indians of this district would ere this have joined with the hostile bands in the valley.
    January 7th, 1856.--Steamer Columbia arrived just after dark; news from the States unimportant. Brevet-Major John F. Reynolds, of Company H, Third Artillery, was a passenger. He relieves Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, in command of this post; the latter is ordered to join his company at Fort Steilacoom.
    January 14th, 1856.--Day before yesterday Captain Poland, commanding a company of volunteers at the Big Bend of Rogue River, sent an express to the Indian agent of Port Orford, stating that a party of hostile Indians had been seen in the vicinity of his fort (a blockhouse), and that he was nearly out of provisions. In the absence of the Indian agent, the commander of Fort Orford sent his company twenty days rations, and lent them mules to pack them.
    An express has just arrived from the mouth of Rogue River, bringing the news that a party, consisting of two white men and a Canadian Indian, left that place day before yesterday for the volunteer cantonment at the Big Bend--and that yesterday morning, when within eight miles of the latter place, they were waylaid by a band of hostile Indians, who fired upon them, killing the two white men, and a Shasta Costa Indian, who had been hired to row them up the river. The Canadian Indian made his escape, and brought the news to the mouth of the river.
    It thus appears that the hostile bands of upper Rogue River are moving in this direction, and are already in the Port Orford district. As they got the better of the troops in upper Rogue River in almost every engagement since the beginning of the war, notwithstanding there were at one time twelve hundred volunteers and regulars in the field, and three hundred and fifty engaged in one battle, it is not likely we shall be able to do much with them should they come among us in full force--at least until we are reinforced--for the whole white male population of this district, including the settlement at the mouth of Rogue River, the volunteers at the Big Bend, citizens of Port Orford, and garrison of Fort Orford, is not more than one hundred and eighty men. A small force, even were they all prepared to fight, to act against the Indians, except in the defensive. However, it is to be hoped that we may maintain the position at the Big Bend, and also be able to get the friendly bands of that neighborhood to move nearer the coast. We may thus be enabled to prevent the hostile tribes from forcing them into their service.
    January 30th, 1856.--This morning Lieutenants John G. Chandler and Drysdale, of the Third Artillery, with seventeen men, will leave this post for the mouth of the Illinois River, to remain there in charge of the provisions, and other stores, until the arrival of Captain Poland's volunteer company from their present fort at the Big Bend, which they are to abandon, in order to secure a more useful position at the mouth of the Illinois, on Rogue River, some seven miles below the Big Bend. Then Lieutenant Chandler's detachment is to proceed to the mouth of Rogue River, to assist the acting Indian agent, Jerry McGuire, in collecting all the friendly Indians in that part of the district, and removing them to Fort Orford. This is done in accordance with general instructions from the Superintendent of Indian Affairs of Oregon, who, foreseeing that many of the friendly tribes might be forced to take sides with those that are hostile, has ordered his assistants to keep the former separated from the latter, and even to bring the friendly bands in, and feed them if necessary.
    Today is exceedingly stormy--a strong southeast wind with rain. The troops will have a disagreeable march. I may here remark that the Indians, after killing those three men near the mouth of Illinois River the other day, made a night attack on the fort at the Big Bend in the absence of a portion of the garrison, but after shooting in the window a few times, and attempting to fire the house, went away. Two days thereafter some of the volunteers came across a few of these Indians and, firing into them, killed one man; the others retreated.
    February 1st, 1856.--The detachment under Lieutenant Chandler left here day before yesterday at one P.M.--the weather being exceedingly stormy. Yesterday morning an expressman arrived from Lieutenant C., bringing an Indian prisoner and a letter. Lieutenant C. reached Half Breed's House, some twelve miles from here, the first day, with his men and animals much fatigued in consequence of the miserable roads and inclemency of the weather. At that place he met Jerry McGuire, the assistant Indian agent, with the above-mentioned Indian prisoner, whom he requests shall be kept in custody for awhile, as he is suspected of being a spy. Mr. McGuire thought it better for him to accompany the troops, otherwise the friendly Indians, on seeing them, might flee to the mountains, and give much trouble. Of course his wishes were gladly complied with, as he is the best Indian interpreter on the coast, and knows all the head men belonging to the different bands. From his representation of the really serious condition of things at the mouth of the Illinois, the detachment of regulars, and the volunteers at the Big Bend, will undoubtedly unite before reaching the latter place, and march there together; for Mr. McGuire says the hostile Indians are already some fifty strong in that neighborhood, and still coming down from their headquarters further up the river.
    In regard to the Indian prisoner, I may remark that he was a partner of Enos, the Canadian Indian who was with the party that was cut off near the mouth of the Illinois a few days ago. I have already mentioned that Enos brought the news of this misfortune to the mouth of Rogue River. On his arrival at the latter place the citizens were induced to let him carry an express to the volunteers at the Big Bend, informing them of what had transpired, and that a hostile band was in their vicinity. They also let him have about sixty dollars worth of gunpowder, which he said the captain of the volunteers desired him to get--for which he paid in gold slugs. Several persons offered to go with him, but he declined their company, saying that he could go more expeditiously and safely alone. Jerry McGuire (acting Indian agent) has since been at the Big Bend, and given Captain Poland the first information concerning the action of the hostile Indians in his vicinity. Enos had not arrived. Captain Poland denies having requested him to buy ammunition, or giving him any gold slugs; and as Enos possessed none himself, it is believed that he has been double dealing, and that the ammunition was purchased for the hostile Indians. Another way the latter have of getting ammunition is from the squaws kept by some of the miners.
    February 2nd, 1856.--This afternoon the steamer Columbia very unexpectedly arrived from Portland on her downward trip. We were under the impression that she passed here in a storm; but it seems she was detained for several days on a sand bar in the Columbia River. As her arrival was so unexpected, and her stay so brief, Major Reynolds was unable to transmit a communication to the headquarters of this department, informing General Wool of the excitement in this vicinity; and as we have no other mode of communication we shall have to wait for the return steamer; unless the commanding officer writes by a schooner now lying in the harbor, and bound for San Francisco in a few days. But as the prevailing winds at this season are from the south and southeast, there is no telling when she will get there. The harbor is so rough at present that she will be unable to take her cargo of lumber for some days to come. The roughness of the harbor, caused by a southeaster, is the reason why the steamer stopped so short a time.
    Ben Wright, our Indian agent, arrived on the steamer this afternoon. His return will have a beneficial influence on the Indians in this district. He says that Captain Poland's volunteer company has been properly organized, and called into service by the Governor. Its strength is to be sixty men--at present it is only about twenty-two.
    February 4th, 1856.--The storm has subsided. The wind has changed to the north; the sky clear and beautiful. Many unknown species of plants are to be seen blooming on the sunny slopes of the coast. The snow has disappeared on the neighboring mountains. No news from Lieutenant Chandler yet. The troops in Eastern and Southern Oregon are in winter quarters. They number two regiments, or twenty companies, of volunteers; and two or three companies of regulars. This number has been in the service since November last. In Washington Territory there have been seven companies of regulars (portions of the Fourth Infantry and Third Artillery) and eight companies of volunteers. In January the regular force was increased by the arrival of the Ninth Infantry, which will take the field during the ensuing spring campaign in Washington Territory and Eastern Oregon. At present the main body of them are at Fort Vancouver, and the remainder at Fort Steilacoom, Puget Sound. Since the arrival of the Ninth, Captain Keyes and Ord's companies of artillery have been ordered to Benicia and the Presidio, in California. The force of regulars and volunteers that left Fort Dalles about the first of November, under Major Rains, with the hope of bringing on an engagement with the Indians near Haller's battle ground, returned after being out several weeks, in consequence of the severity of the weather. The Indians had fled from their former positions, and were not to be found in any large bodies. Some detachments of the troops, however, had a few skirmishes with small parties of Indians.
    Colonel James K. Kelly, commanding another body of troops (volunteers), was more successful. He came upon a large number of the Indians near Walla Walla, in the Snake River country, and had an engagement, which lasted four days, when the Indians fled, leaving some thirty-five dead on the field, among others the famous chief of the Walla Wallas, Peu-peu-mox-mox. Colonel Kelly says in his report that there were probably some seventy-five of the enemy slain, as they were known to carry off many of their dead. His own loss was five or six killed and several wounded. While the difficulties were going on there, the Indians in the vicinity of Puget Sound broke out and killed some fifteen or twenty settlers. Portions of the two companies of the Fourth Infantry, stationed at Fort Steilacoom, and one or two companies of volunteers, went out against them, and finally succeeded in driving them from the neighborhood. In the several skirmishes that they had with the Indians some twelve or twenty men were killed, and several officers, among whom was Lieutenant Slaughter, Fourth Infantry, as before mentioned.
    Whilst these difficulties were going on in Washington Territory and Eastern Oregon, the Indians, who had broken out in Rogue River Valley, were doing a great deal of mischief; and although the number of their warriors has not at any one time been over two or three hundred, and there have been from five to fifteen hundred volunteers and regulars (a small proportion of the latter) in the field against them, yet they have in no instance been fairly whipped, except when their number was infinitely less than the whites. The fact is, the troops have insurmountable difficulties to contend with in fighting Indians in Southern Oregon. The country is so mountainous and thickly timbered that the Indians can take their position wherever they please, which is generally impregnable, and if pushed too hard are sure to find a way of retreat. They also have many good marksmen. In a late skirmish on the Applegate, a white man, Dr. Myers, was shot at the distance of three hundred yards. In this affair the troops had, to all appearances, made sure of their foe, by surrounding a log house, in which they had secreted themselves. The former succeeded in dropping through the roof a shell, which killed two Indians; but night coming on, they concluded to keep the house surrounded till morning, and then renew the attack. During the night the Indians broke through the picket line and made their escape. On examination of the house it was found that the latter had dug pits under the floor, thus, in a measure, protecting themselves from the explosion of the shell. In almost every instance the Indians of that section have managed to evade the utmost vigilance of the troops. They came off first best at the engagement near Cow Creek, when the troops, under Colonel Ross and Captain Smith, attacked them with a force of nearly four hundred men, as mentioned on a preceding page; then again at the crossing of Rogue River, where a plan had been arranged to surround them; and lastly on the Applegate, where they certainly had them in a better position to be cut off than will soon be possessed again. Yet they have managed to kill a good number in all; and it is thought that one of the most troublesome bands (Jake's) has been entirely exterminated.
    If these same Indians are really coming among us in main force, it remains to be seen whether we shall meet with any better success than our fellow soldiers above. All we can do until reinforcements arrive will be to keep the friendly Indians separated from the hostile Indians as far as practicable.
    I may here remark that the regulars in Washington Territory and Eastern Oregon are at present commanded by Colonel George Wright--General Wool having gone to Benicia. The volunteers in Eastern Oregon have elected T. Cornelius as their colonel; Colonel Kelly, who had command whilst Colonel Nesmith was attending the Legislature, having declined a nomination. In Middle Oregon Colonel Martin commands, and in Southern Oregon the volunteer battalion have elected Bob Williams as their colonel. The appointment of Colonel Martin was made by the Governor. The elections of Colonels Cornelius and Williams have yet to receive his approval.
    Today an express was received from Lieutenant Chandler, dated February 3rd, fourteen miles from the mouth of the Illinois. He had sent a request to Captain Poland for a portion of his command to join him, when they would march on to the mouth of the Illinois together. Mr. McGuire, the assistant Indian agent, was fearful all the friendly Indians would not come in. It is to be regretted that a larger force could not have been sent into that neighborhood; for the Indians of that portion of the district, seeing that the hostile Indians are the stronger party, will be induced to join them. They are totally ignorant of the power of the United States, and imagine that we are the only whites in this part of the country with whom they will have to contend.
    February 7th, 1856.--I went out this afternoon and secured a fine mess of rock oysters. They are found on the seashore embedded in solid rocks, generally of the gray sandstone species. The little cavities containing them have no communication whatever with the atmosphere except, perhaps, through the pores of the rock; unless the oyster is dead. In the latter event there are external openings. Insects probably destroy them. Their average size, shell and all, is about that of a pullet's egg, which they also resemble somewhat in shape, except they are flatter, and have a much sharper little end. I have never seen them anywhere but on this coast. They taste very much like the Chesapeake oyster, and have as fine a flavor. They are obtained by shivering the rock with a hammer.
    In the cove where these oysters were obtained the sea otter is occasionally to be seen. In fact I wounded one there myself a few weeks ago, which ultimately died, and was found by the Indians. It must have died shortly after it was shot, and was then carried ashore by the tide. It is possible the one found was not mine, but as its skin had been pierced by buckshot, and I am the only one, as far as can be ascertained, who used the latter, it seems pretty evident that I killed it. But the finders are, of course, the owners.
    The sea otter (enhydra marina) which abounds on the Pacific Coast from California to Bering's Strait, is much larger than the common otter found in Europe and the eastern part of North America. Its body is about three and one half feet long--its tail fifteen inches. The general color is a beautiful maroon brown, with a brownish silver-gray to the head, neck under part of the forelegs. Its skin is considered the finest of all furs, both in texture, softness and durability; and commands as much as a hundred dollars in the markets of China, Japan, Europe and America. It lives in the ocean near the shore in winter, but in summer ascends the rivers and enters the freshwater lakes. It lives on fish, crustacea, and seaweed.
    The sea otter is essentially an aquatic animal, though it can live in both air and water; although it may be found with its head, and even its body, resting on a rock, it never ventures on the dry land. When cracking a mussel shell, or playing, it swims on its back. The same position is assumed by the female whilst nursing her young, which are held pretty much as a woman holds her baby when nursing it while lying down. Her breasts also resemble the human female's. When dead the sea otter floats on the surface of the water. Many persons follow hunting it as a profession on this coast.
    February 10th, 1856.--This afternoon Lieutenant Chandler arrived, having left his detachment in camp, under the command of Lieutenant Drysdale, on Rogue River, about four miles from its mouth. He, in conjunction with Captain Poland's company, and Indian agent J. McGuire, succeeded in inducing the Shasta Costas, and other friendly Indians in the vicinity of Big Bend, to move further down Rogue River. On the first appearance of the troops at the mouth of the Illinois, the friendly Indians took to the thicket, but were finally all got in. They reported that the hostile Indians had moved with their families up the Illinois. They will probably make that their headquarters, and thence proceed in different directions to cut off small parties. It is important that they be followed up at once, whilst their provisions are scarce, but it will be almost impossible for troops to pursue them far up the Illinois, as its banks and mountain gorges are woefully inaccessible. However, so soon as we receive reinforcements we shall doubtless take a trip against them.
    February 15th, 1856.--Lieutenant Drysdale and detachment returned yesterday. The weather for the last few days has been as beautiful and mild as I ever experienced. The thermometer being generally about fifty at seven A.M., and sixty at two P.M.--wind N.W. Tonight, however, the latter has changed to the S.E., and will probably give us another storm.
    Major Reynolds and myself caught fourteen beautiful salmon trout in a lagoon in this vicinity yesterday; but they are not very good at this season, their flesh being soft.

    Monday, Feb. 25th, 1856.--Indian troubles are augmenting. Captain Ben Wright, the Indian sub-agent, Captain Poland, several volunteers, and all the settlers between this and Rogue River, except those immediately at the mouth, making about twenty-eight in all, have been massacred by the Indians.
    As previously mentioned, the friendly bands from the vicinity of Big Bend of Rogue River had been brought lower down the river, so as to keep them separated as far as possible from the hostile tribes above. Provisions were also issued them by the agent, whose intention it was to remove them, together with all the tribes in this district, to the Indian reserve selected by the superintendent last summer. The Indians seemed delighted at the idea of going on the reservation. About fifteen of Captain Poland's volunteers were kept in the neighborhood to watch their movements. On the twenty-second instant five of these attended a ball at the mouth of the river. On the same day the Indians (those brought from the Big Bend) sent a message to Captain Wright that Enos (the traitor) was at their camp, and desired Wright to come up immediately, as he wished to have a talk with him. The latter returned answer that he would meet Enos at a half-way house; and accordingly left the same day with Captain Poland for the place of assignation. That night the ten volunteers, who were quartered in a shanty directly across the river from where the agent and Enos were to meet, heard a very suspicious noise in that direction, but did not know that anything was wrong till the following morning, when their party was attacked whilst at breakfast by an overwhelming body of savages. They immediately broke for the thicket. So far but one of them (C. Foster) has been heard from--and he managed to reach this place. He lay secreted in a thicket near the attacked house all day Saturday, and saw sufficient of the Indian movements that day to satisfy him that all the Coast Indians in that vicinity had risen against the whites. Foster says he killed two Indians with his revolver, and could have killed a third, but was afraid the report of the pistol would endanger his life. On Saturday night he left the thicket, and came as far as Euchre Creek. On coming near the ranches there he discovered them, burnt, and the Euchre Indians holding a war dance. Last night he reached this place. Shortly after, a schooner arrived from the mouth of the Rogue River confirming the report of the outbreak. She left yesterday morning; she brought a list of the missing, twenty-eight in number. The nearest house burned is within fifteen miles of here.
    As the Indians are vastly stronger than the whites, even though the bands between this place and the Coquille do not join them, and as they are elated by almost unprecedented success in upper Rogue River, and led on by that rascal Enos, who, from having been employed so much by the army as guide, has a perfect knowledge of this country and its most assailable points, it is feared an attack will be made on the citizens in the temporary fortifications at the mouth of Rogue River, and perhaps on this place.
    12 o'clock, M.--Two men, supposed to have been killed, have found their way in--Dr. White to Rogue River, and Mr. Smith to this place. The latter states that late on the afternoon of the twenty-second, the Euchre Indians, whose encampment was near his house, came there, and told them that Seaman (both the latter and Dr. White were there on a visit) had killed two otter, and wished Warner, a partner of Mr. Smith's, to come down there immediately, and bring him two rifles. Warner, though not suspecting anything, for the Indians had been perfectly friendly, and he knew that Seaman was otter hunting, still declined to go. Shortly thereafter, the Chief came to him and said that he had found a dead otter, which had floated ashore, and wished Warner to come down and see whether it was the one which he had killed a few days previously. Warner went. Mr. Smith and the Doctor heard a shot shortly afterwards, and suspected what was up. They ran into the house, which was immediately attacked by the Indians, and set on fire. This was extinguished several times, but the latter finally succeeded in getting it in a full blaze. The two gentlemen then broke for the bushes. The bullets rattled around them, but they made their escape. Mr. Smith was from Friday night till Monday 12 o'clock M., reaching Fort Orford, a distance, by the usual trail, of only fifteen miles. Of course he kept [to] the thicket all the way.
    February 27th, 1856.--For the last few days we have been endeavoring to put our post in a condition for defense against the enemy should they attack us. Most of the buildings are made of cedar plank, and are consequently very inflammable, and afford only protection against balls. One half of the fort is surrounded by a dense forest, through which the Indians can come within pistol shot of garrison. Should the enemy arrive before we get ourselves in a defensible condition, it will be a serious matter.
    Last night there were two alarms--the first one false--the second caused by a shot from a sentinel downtown at four strange Indians seen hovering near. Things in this district at present are calculated to cause much vigilance and anxiety, especially as we have no chance of securing aid from a distance for some time. If the steamer gets in today or tomorrow, we may be able to report our condition to Col. Wright, who has probably not yet left Fort Vancouver, with all of the Ninth Regiment.
    We feel much anxiety to hear from Rogue River, as large columns of smoke are plainly to be seen rising up from the vicinity of the fort erected there by the whites of that place.
     February 28th, 1856.--The steamer Republic arrived here last evening. She was bound for Portland, and had gone twenty-five miles beyond Port Orford, and would not have stopped had she not caught fire when this port was made, as it was the nearest. The fire caused but little damage. A large quantity of ammunition, intended for Vancouver and this place, was thrown overboard. By her we were enabled to inform Col. Wright of our critical position.
    This morning a rowboat was dispatched to Rogue River to learn how the settlers, who are there besieged, are getting on. With a spyglass, we yesterday thought we could see their fort still standing; but the shanties all along the coast seemed to have been burnt to the ground. We think that the settlers will be able to hold out till the arrival of assistance, yet it is strange the schooner has not returned.
    March 1st, 1856.--This morning Mr. McGuire and another gentleman reached here from the mouth of Rogue River. They ran a narrow escape, but the critical condition of the citizens there rendered it absolutely necessary for an express to come through. The former states that Captain Tichenor, who left here for that place last Sunday night, was unable to get in, on account of a strong wind blowing at the time. He has probably gone to Crescent City for aid. The boat that left here day before yesterday was capsized in attempting to land, and eight of her ten men met a watery grave. He says the Indians have burnt and destroyed all the houses and other property in that neighborhood, except the fort in which the citizens are now protected. This has been attacked several times, but as it is a good building, and situated on the sand beach, over a mile from any timber, they will probably be able to sustain themselves until the arrival of reinforcements by the next steamer, if any are sent; if not, the steamer may stop there and take them away.
    The Indians are represented to be very numerous. All the upper Rogue River bands, that have given so much trouble near Jacksonville, are believed to be present, together with those who have joined them in this district. There is not a doubt from what has come to light, that the rise of all the Indians in this district has been determined on. The only thing to prevent the few bands yet professing friendship from joining the enemy will be the timely arrival of reinforcements. We now have three small bands on the military reserve, who will remain peaceable just so long as the enemy keeps away, and no longer. But what can we do? They still profess friendship, and say they wish to live in peace with us. Surely we can't, under the circumstances, treat them otherwise than as friends. It is a difficult matter to get along with the Indians when a thirst for revenge has been awakened in their breasts, for then they know no distinction between foes or friends. All whites are then alike to them, and deep, hellish treachery and revenge becomes the motive power of all their actions.
    March 4th, 1856.--Yesterday, Roland, a celebrated hunter, came in from the Coquille. He is very inimical to the Indians, who have frequently endeavored to kill him; that is, even those now professing friendship, and for several months past there have been a few of the hostile Indians spying around in his neighborhood, three of whom followed his trail the other day.
    The way he caught them in their own game is worthy of record. As has always been his custom during dangerous times, he traveled five or six miles on a certain trail, and then went off to one side and struck the same again a mile or two back, and examined it to see if he was pursued. In this way he soon discovered that three Indians were on his trail. Moving along carefully, he came up behind them and shot one; the other two broke and ran. The story is believed, because, independent of the old fellow's credibility, the action is in accordance with his character. His age is about sixty-five, and yet he can shoot better than any man in this country. A rifle in his hands is held as steadily as though it were in a vise. I could relate many daring adventures of which he is the hero, had I space to spare, but shall conclude by simply remarking that he is a second Daniel Boone. The pioneer of Kentucky must have been just such an eccentric specimen of humanity.
    False alarms are the order of the night down in the village; but last night one of the sentinels there did really get a shot at an Indian spy; he was within twenty feet of him. It is not known whether the fellow was struck or not, but, judging from the manner in which he threw himself over the bank, it is thought some of the buckshot hit him. His tracks were plainly to be seen on the sand beach the next morning; also a large knife, which he had dropped, was found.
    We are now enclosing a row of our principal houses in a picket fence, made of upright posts, eight feet apart, placed around in the form of a rectangular parallelogram. Boards are nailed to these both inside and outside, thus leaving a space of six inches between them, which is filled with dirt. At intervals of about thirty feet port-holes are cut to fire through; and also at suitable places there are openings of two by two and a half feet for the howitzer. A glacis will be thrown up on the outside of the fence. The latter will be completed in a few days, when the ordnance and commissary stores will be moved inside, and thus be kept secure from the enemy, who will then be unable to burn us out; and, in fact, I have no idea that they will make an attack when they perceive that we are ready for it.
    The steamer is looked for tomorrow. If she brings troops they will be immediately dispatched to the relief of the besieged garrison at the mouth of Rogue River.
    March 7th, 1856.--The steamer from above has not yet arrived. She is two or three days behind her time. Night before last we were all put under arms about three o'clock in the morning, as it was believed by many that Indians were in the thicket just back of the garrison. When daylight broke nothing could be seen. Last night there were two false alarms downtown, and one at the mill. The first was caused by a sentinel shooting at another coming to relieve him--the second by one of the pickets shooting a cow, which he mistook for an Indian--the third was the accidental discharge of his gun by a sentinel guarding the sawmill in the vicinity of the post. This morning sixteen men arrived from Coos Bay--a coal mining region some seventy miles up the coast. They learned something had occurred down here, and came to find out the particulars. They will probably return soon to put the other settlers on their guard.
    March 8th, 1856.--A rowboat has just arrived from Fort Miner, the temporary fortification of the besieged citizens at the mouth of Rogue River, and brings the following news:
    On the third or fourth instant a party of seventeen men left the fort to bring in some potatoes, about a mile distant. They had no idea that the enemy was near enough to do them any harm. A sentinel was posted in a commanding position, whilst the others put the potatoes in the wagon. Before they had finished loading, a party of Indians made an attack by first shooting the sentinel. A running fight ensued--the whites, being overpowered, were driven to the fort, with the loss of four, and two wounded. They think several of the enemy were killed--one of the chiefs among the number.
    On the sixth instant an exchange of prisoners took place; the Indians giving up Mrs. [Geisel] and her two daughters, and the whites four squaws. Mrs. [Geisel] says the Indians put her two sons to death, but treated her and daughters well. From what she was enabled to gather from the Indians, a large number of them were killed in their attack and massacre of the volunteers. The besieged are represented as being still about one hundred strong; and have provisions for two weeks. Their fort consists of two log houses, surrounded by a high embankment of earth. They will, no doubt, be able to hold out till we can reinforce them.
    It is feared an accident has occurred to the Republic, or she would have been here several days ago, with reinforcements. The steamer from below is also due. If neither of them come in we shall all be in a perilous position, for our provisions are growing short from having to supply the distressed citizens in Port Orford, as well as the friendly Indians now on the reserve. If the latter are not fed they will leave here, and probably join the enemy at once. They say they don't wish to unite with the hostile Indians, if the whites can give them protection.
    Sunday 9th, 1856.--The steamer Columbia arrived last night at twelve, and brought us forty-one recruits. Major General Wool and staff were on board. The General has ordered three bodies of regulars to proceed against the hostile Indians at Rogue River, from three different points. One hundred men, under Captain A. J. Smith, to leave Fort Lane on the eleventh instant--one hundred Crescent City on the twelfth, and seventy from this post on the thirteenth. From our proximity we shall undoubtedly reach the ground first, and may have a hard fight; for the enemy are the same (only doubly reinforced) who stood their ground against four hundred volunteers and regulars at the battle of "Hungry Hill," in upper Rogue River Valley, last November.
    March 11th, 1856.--The Republic arrived from above on the afternoon of the ninth. She brought Captain C. C. Augur's company, seventy-four men, Fourth Infantry. She was detained three days in crossing the bar of the Columbia.

    March 14th, 1856.--Portions of Company H, Third Artillery, and G, Fourth Infantry, in all one hundred and two men, under the command of Captain Christopher C. Augur, left Port Orford this morning to act against the Rogue River Indians. The officers are Captain C. C. Augur, Fourth Infantry; Bat. Major John F. Rignod, Third Artillery; Lieutenant Robert Macfeely, Fourth Infantry; Lieutenant John Drysdale, Third Artillery, and myself--also some fifteen guides and packers.
    It having rained on the thirteenth, and also some little today, the trail is muddy and slippery. It is also exceedingly hilly and rough, and lined the most of the way with thick timber. The command are obliged to march in single file. Having to wade streams (one, Brush Creek, seventeen times), they are kept wet up to their knees.
    We arrived in camp at the "Half Breed's House" (now vacant), ten miles from Fort Orford, about sundown. Not being able to get a good supply of pack animals, and not knowing how long we should be in the field, we have brought with us nothing but absolute necessaries--not even tents. The latter will be considered necessary before the trip is over, for I have no idea that we shall be able to return from the field for several months--in the meantime we shall probably be able to get tents. For the present, however, we must endure the weather whatever it may be. On arriving here we captured a squaw, who says she is on her way to join her tribe near Port Orford. She further states that the upper Rogue River Indians and the coast tribes have been quarelling, and that the former have gone up the river, taking most of the plunder with them; and that the traitor Enos is yet with the latter. Her report is considered suspicious. She will be sent to Fort Orford--to be kept awhile in custody.
    Sunday, March 15th, 1856.--We came about fifteen miles yesterday over an exceedingly rough trail. The first three miles of our way lay through thick fir timber--then seven miles of dense undergrowth of chinquapin, whortleberry, large or true laurel, and rhododendron--the remainder of the trail ran through a dense growth of fir, with the exception of half a mile of peculiar species of oak, on the south hill of Euchre Creek.
    The march was a hard one--several of the men and animals giving out in ascending Euchre Hill, the ascent of which is three or four miles. Six mules and packs left behind; also one man. We sent back last night for the latter, but he had risen from the spot where he was last seen lying. We shall remain in camp at this place today, and endeavor to find the man as well as the mules. The latter are probably several miles in the rear. Yesterday our hunters killed a fat deer.
    Our camp is some three or four thousand feet above the ocean, which lies plainly in view some fifteen miles to the west. The surrounding landscape is very picturesque. Some of the mountain peaks are whitened with snow, others covered with green grass. The highest points seen yesterday were Iron Mountain to the east, Bald Mountain west, and Illinois Mountain southeast. Portions of the first and second can be seen from this camp.
    March 17th.--After a diligent search yesterday, we were unable to find the poor fellow we left behind. The packers were more successful, however, having found all their mules and packs, otherwise many of the command would have had no blankets to protect them from the inclemency of the weather. As it was, we all got wet from the rain. The act of sleeping on the ground of a rainy night, without tents, is not the most agreeable thing in the world.
    We left the Bark Shanty camp this morning at 10 o'clock, and reached our present one at 3:30 P.M. The ascent on the side of Lobster Creek is about three miles, and so steep that pack animals can scarcely climb it. We have come eight miles, most of the way through a forest of fir timber.
    From our present position, we could see Rogue River and the ocean, were it not so foggy. The fog, which lies along the watercourses many hundred feet below us, looks very beautiful, as the sun, which is setting clear, adds to its charms. The snow-capped mountains of the Illinois shine with brilliant splendor. Altogether, it is the most beautiful landscape I have ever seen.
    March 19th, 1856.--Camp on north side of Rogue River, opposite the mouth of the Illinois. We arrived here yesterday at 4 P.M., having traveled fourteen miles, the most of the way through timber and dense undergrowth. On descending the mountain, immediately on Rogue River, we passed around a hill with a slope so steep that the least misstep would have sent the rider one thousand feet below. Fortunately, no accident occurred at that point.
    The view from the crest of the mountain was grand. From there we could, with our spyglasses, see the mouth of the Illinois, on the east bank of which, near its junction with Rogue River, we also beheld Indians. We moved cautiously forward, and arriving at our present camp, and tying the animals, three detachments were sent to attack the enemy, who were seen on the opposite bank of Rogue River, only two hundred and fifty yards from our camp. One of the detachments went as close as the river would permit and opened a fire of small arms, which was followed in a few seconds by a howitzer, under Major Reynolds. The Indians fled across the Illinois in canoes. When they got across the river in the thick timber, on the opposite side of Rogue River to us, they commenced a random fire upon us while we were burning their ranches, which were mostly on our side of the river. Much dried salmon and acorns were destroyed in these ranches, which constituted the Macanuteeney [Mackanotin, Mikonotunne] village. The Indians, feeling themselves secure for the time in the forest on the opposite side of the river, which is at this point only about seventy-five yards wide, and which we had no means of crossing, kept up an occasional firing during the evening, and then again early this morning, but are poor shots, or else they would have done us some injury. A few of their balls came whizzing uncomfortably near us while we were at breakfast.
    It is supposed we killed four in the skirmish yesterday. Their ranches on this side of the river had every indication of having been hastily abandoned, and as there was a canoe of provisions lying on the opposite side of the river, it is thought the Indians were aware of our approach. They probably saw us when we were passing around the steep slope a few miles back. It is here we were to join the troops from Crescent City, under the command of Brevet-Lieut. Col. R. C. Buchanan. He should have arrived four days ago; but from all we can now learn, it is highly probable that he has been unable to take the route indicated in General Wool's order, and has likely marched directly for the mouth of the river, to the relief of Fort Miner. As we have no idea of his whereabouts, we shall start this morning for the mouth of the river.
    The Indians have been firing upon us this morning from the opposite side of Rogue River, and we have returned their fire. It would be impossible to rout them from that position, unless we had some means of crossing the stream. And as we are not aware how long the besieged citizens can hold out without assistance, it is thought useless and imprudent to tarry here three or four days in building a flatboat to cross the river, and then probably be unable to bring the enemy to a fair fight.
    Afternoon, March 19th, 1856.--Camp four miles from mouth of Illinois. Got here at three P.M.; men and animals nearly worn out. The hill we have just climbed is about three miles long and very steep. Just before reaching the foot of it, there was a very high bluff bank of a ditch to ascend. Many of the pack animals fell and rolled down into the ditch, the mule on which the howitzer was packed being among the number. Some of the saddle animals, with their riders, met with the same accident.
    "Soldiers' Camp," March 20th, 1856.--This is the same camp we made on the evening of the 17th. Indians have been seen in our rear today, watching our movements. The hunters killed two deer yesterday, and the same number this morning.
    Late this afternoon dense columns of smoke have been seen ascending from the south bank of the mouth of Rogue River; and just at sundown two flames were observable, one succeeding the other in quick succession, and followed in about three minutes by reports like those of cannon. Colonel Buchanan has probably arrived at the mouth of the river, and had a fight with the Indians. The flashes and reports were perhaps from his howitzer, and the smoke from the burning Indian ranches. But as Captain Augur is not sure of this, he will move from here tomorrow to where the Rogue River trail turns off, and thence send an express to Fort Orford to learn, if possible, the whereabouts of the Colonel, who may have sent some orders to the post for him.
    March 22nd, 1856--12 M.--We are now encamped at the junction of the Rogue River with the Illinois trail. This morning, at four A.M., an express of two men--Walker and Middleman--arrived from Colonel Buchanan, who is, with his command of one hundred and twenty men, at the mouth of Rogue River, on this side, having arrived there on the morning of the twenty-first. He had reached the opposite side on the previous evening, and had a slight skirmish with the Indians. We were right in our conjectures about the burning ranches and firing of the howitzers--it was dark, however, at the mouth of Rogue River when the latter were fired, although only sundown to us on the mountains--hence the flashes of light so plainly visible.
    It appears that the Colonel's command did not leave Crescent City until the fifteenth, instead of the eleventh, as directed by General Wool; and deeming it impracticable to reach the Illinois by the route directed by the General, he marched directly for the mouth of Rogue River, where he arrived on the evening of the twentieth.
    On the third day out he relieved a company of thirty-three volunteers, who, being mounted, had gone in advance of the regulars, but were attacked by the Indians and retreated as far as they could, and then threw themselves in a temporary breastwork, made of driftwood, on the sand beach. The Indians surrounded them there, and approached the fort by means of logs, which they rolled before them. They came boldly up within thirty yards of the volunteers, and stole all their horses. The company was kept in this perilous position for nearly two days--the numbers of the enemy constantly increasing. On the approach of the regulars the Indians retreated, having no dead on the field. The volunteers think they killed ten or fifteen; they lost one man.
    The advance guard of the regulars met with a few Indians on the next day, and wounded one so badly that his comrade had to lash him on the horse. They saw no more of them after this until reaching the mouth of the river. There the main body of Indians had taken a position in a deep ditch, dug by the whites for mining purposes. Their presence was not known till they commenced firing upon the Colonel and his staff, who had gone a little in advance to select a camp. The surgeon, Dr. Hillman, had his hat knocked off, and his coat cut in two places; but no one was hurt. The troops, who had in the meantime come up, were ordered to make a charge. After the firing of a few shots, and the discharge of one or two howitzers, the enemy fled. One of the privates of the command found on his way up a piece of gold worth forty-five dollars. It was picked up on a hillside just below Pistol Creek, some twenty miles from the mouth of Rogue River.
    The Colonel thinks we are at the mouth of the Illinois, and has ordered us to join him at the earliest moment--Tuesday, if possible. Captain Augur will send the express back tonight to inform the Colonel of our proximity, and that we shall march from here at twelve tonight, and endeavor to reach the point where the trail turns off to the Macanuteneey ranch by six tomorrow morning, and there await his orders. As the main body of Indians are supposed to be between that ranch and the Tututeeney [Tototin, Tututni] village, four miles below, we may have a fight before making a junction with the Colonel.
    Monday, March 24th, 1856.--Camp mouth of Rogue River. Three expressmen having been sent forward on the night of the 22nd instant, to inform Col. B. of our intended movement to the vicinity of the Macanuteneey village, and of our hope of hearing from him there by six A.M. of the 23rd. We took up our line of march at 1½ A.M., and reached the spot designated, by 7 A.M., and not yet hearing from Col. B. The commanding officer sent forward another expressman (McGuire), with instructions to return if possible by 10 or 11 A.M. We consequently remained there without unpacking our mules until 12 M., and receiving no information, Captain Augur ordered his command to start on for the mouth of the river. Our road was as mountainous as usual, but not so thickly timbered; the day warm; many of the men gave out. I let one of them have my horse, and consequently, had to walk ten miles over the roughest portion of the road, and in the hottest part of the day.
    We passed several houses which had been plundered and burnt by the Indians in the massacre of the 22nd and 23rd of February, and saw several dead bodies of the unfortunate settlers who had been so brutally murdered.
    On reaching the Colonel's camp, we were informed of his intention to have sent the express back last night, and that he intended making a conjoined movement against the enemy early this morning; but as our detachment is pretty well worn down by hard marching, the movement will be postponed a day or so.
    Tuesday, March 25th, 1856.--In consequence of stormy weather, we are still in camp. Small parties were sent out this morning to bury the bodies of those persons recently murdered; and the little schooner Gold Beach has been chartered to convey the females belonging to the Citizen Fort to Port Orford. She left here at eleven A.M., having on board twenty-two adults and fourteen children.
    March 28th, 1856.--On the afternoon of the twenty-fifth, Lieutenant Drysdale, with a small detachment, was ordered up the opposite side of the river a short distance, to reconnoiter the enemy, but returned without being able to see any Indians.
    On the morning of the twenty-sixth, a detachment of troops were ordered on each side of the river, to proceed as far as Macanuteneey village, and after burning it, to return to camp. If either party fell in with the enemy, it was to have been aided, if possible, by the other.
    The command on the north bank consisted of Captain E. O. C. Ord, Third Artillery; Captain Delancey F. Jones, Fourth Infantry; Lieutenant Jno. Drysdale, Third Artillery; Dr. Hillman and 115 men, being B Co. Third Artillery, and F Co. Fourth Infantry. On the south bank, Capt. C. C. Augur, Fourth Infantry, myself and about seventy men.
    As it was supposed Captain Ord would have several miles further to go than Augur, the latter started an hour or two later than the former. Captain Ord's command reached the Macanuteeney village about four P.M., and not seeing any Indians proceeded at once to burn the ranches. This being accomplished, he marched his men a few hundred yards up the hill; that is, back from the village, which was situated immediately on the river; and then dividing his command in two or three detachments, kept them on the lookout for Indians. A few of the men, and the guides, in the meantime endeavored to catch some horses nearby, supposed to belong to the enemy. Suddenly a party of Indians rushed out from the thicket towards the troops' blankets, and fired at the men guarding them. Fortunately Lieutenant Drysdale's party, whom the Indians did not seem to be aware was nearby, met them with a heavy discharge of small arms. The enemy faltered and fell back a short distance, when Captain Ord ordered a charge, with the view of driving the enemy from their position. This was a difficult maneuver, but was handsomely accomplished. The Indians were evidently surprised at this movement--it being so different from what they had ever seen done by Americans before. So, after they were driven from their hiding places a few times, they sprang in their canoes and crossed the river; leaving eight dead on the field. The Indians fought bravely, but are evidently bad shots; as, up to the time of their retreating, they had only wounded one soldier. The enemy being defeated, Captain Ord left for the camp at the mouth of the river, but intended going but a short distance to encamp that evening.
    After marching a little ways, Sergeant Nash, of B company, whilst helping one of the men who had lagged behind the command, was fired at by an unseen foe, and wounded in the left hypochondrium. Of course no Indians could be seen. The Sergeant's wound was so dangerous as to determine the Captain to continue on to the main camp, to have him properly cared for. In the meantime Captain Augur's command proceeded up the other side of the river for four miles, when some Indians were spied a few hundred yards off, who immediately commenced whooping and yelling. We confidently expected to get a fight from the main body, whom we suspected to be lying in ambush for us. So throwing out flankers and advance parties, as well as the nature of the country would permit, for we were marching through dense timber, we moved along briskly, but cautiously, until we got opposite the Macanuteneey village, which was seen to be burnt. We could then see a few Indians several miles ahead of us, on a high hill, but deemed it useless to attempt pursuit. Having heard a few shots in the direction of the burnt village, when we were four or five miles back, and afterwards observing a smoke rising from its site, and now seeing it burnt, we very naturally concluded that Ord had had a skirmish, and having defeated the enemy, and burnt the ranches, had returned. It was then nearly dark, we having marched ten miles instead of five--in other words the distance was just twice as far as the Colonel had been told it was. So having accomplished our orders we captured a canoe, and sending three men to camp with it, we countermarched about a mile and then encamped for the night--with neither tents, blankets or overcoats. The clouds indicated a heavy rain, which commenced about midnight, and drenched us thoroughly. We had brought in our haversacks a cold snack--after devouring which we slept moderately well. Our day's march on foot had been a hard one, and gave a zest to rest of any kind. Being chief of the medical staff in this command, I am, of course, entitled to horses--but the nature of the service is such as frequently to deprive everybody of the privilege of riding--thus in my case several times. About eleven o'clock at night the sentinel (and whole picket guard in that direction) hearing someone stealing up to camp, challenged and fired. Whatever, or whoever, it was, ran off--thus making a narrow escape.
    Leaving camp at daylight the next morning, we reached headquarters, at the mouth of the river, by noon; and then learned that Captain Ord had arrived but a few hours previously, and had had a fight. This fight of his is the most interesting which has occurred during the Southern Oregon war--as it is the first time that Indians, when in a good position in the timber, have been driven back. It has been the custom heretofore, with the volunteers especially, on meeting with the enemy, behind trees, to take to the latter also, and pop away at an unseen foe, until all the ammunitions, or perhaps provisions, were exhausted, and then to withdraw; it being considered impossible to drive the Indians from a good position behind logs and trees.
    March 29th, 1856.--As it is thought Captain Smith may be at the Big Bend of Rogue River by this time, an express of two men, Oliver Cantle and Charles Foster, was sent a few days since to communicate with him if possible; it is time they had returned. Yesterday a train of eighty pack animals, escorted by Major Reynolds with twenty men of Company H, left for Fort Orford to bring provisions. Lieutenant Macfeely and Dr. Hillman accompanied them, and are to remain at Fort Orford. The former relieves the A.A.Q.M. there, Lieutenant Chandler, who will act as Colonel Buchanan's Aide. The Colonel and Lieutenant D. also went along, but will return.
    The officers who have thus far reported for duty, the field with this command are: Brevet Lieutenant Colonel R. C. Buchanan, commanding district of Oregon and Northern California; Captain E. O. C. Ord, Third Artillery; Captain C. C. Augur, Fourth Infantry; Brevet-Major John F. Reynolds, Third Artillery; Captain Delancey Floyd-Jones, Fourth Infantry; Second Lieutenant George P. Ihrie, Third Artillery; Second Lieutenant John Drysdale, Third Artillery; Dr. Hillman and myself. Dr. Hillman has been relieved from duty.
    Yesterday, the little schooner Gold Beach, from Fort Orford, being unable to enter the mouth of Rogue River, was beached a few hundred yards from camp on the opposite side of the river. Forty men were detailed to get her off, but have been unsuccessful thus far. They will, no doubt, succeed in the course of the morning.
    Sunday, March 30th, 1856.--The Gold Beach was got off yesterday, and it is now safely anchored in the mouth of the river. The wind, which has been blowing from the southeast for the last few days, has increased to a perfect storm, accompanied by frequent showers of rain. Thanks to Colonel B., we are now permitted the shelter of tents, brought from Crescent City. It is amusing to observe the numerous seals "skylarking" and feeding in the mouth of the river; their bark is very similar to that of a dog. Sea otters may also be seen in the surf.
    The expressmen sent to the Big Bend returned yesterday afternoon, not having seen or heard anything from Captain Smith's command. Their mules gave out a few miles from here, and they had to go all the way on foot. This was fortunate, perhaps, as they might otherwise have been pursued, a party of twelve or sixteen Indians on horseback having passed by them at night. As this was the night of the same day of Ord's fight with the Indians, and as they were on the trail towards the mouth of the Illinois, it is possible they were fleeing from the troops.
    April 1, 1856.--Yesterday was bright and sunny; today the wind and rain comes in fitful blasts from the southeast, making everybody uncomfortable. We may bless our stars that we have tents--though the wind seems intent on dashing them down--the raindrops tumble through occasionally, to let us know they are knocking without. But, after all, we feel as happy as usual. Happiness consists of a strange compound of elements. For my part, I am in as fine spirits as ever in my life. Not that I am fond of the hard and toilsome marches we have to make over these mountains, but the appreciation of rest and food afterwards is so keen and delightful. We now enjoy a slice of ham, or even pork, with as much gusto as the idle loafer in our large cities does his daintiest bonnes bouches.
    April 5th, 1856.--The storm has intermitted--the wind being this morning from the north. 'Tis pleasant to see the sun once more. We learn that Captain Smith's command has reached Fort Orford, totally without provisions, and nearly naked. He reached the mouth of the Illinois, on the south side of Rogue River, about the twenty-second of March, and had a skirmish with a small party of Indians--probably the same Indians we drove across the river. He destroyed several ranches, and everything in them. The Indians had evidently been surprised, and ran off leaving everything behind. Two sacks of Oregon flour, and many other articles stolen by them in the massacre at the mouth of the river, were found in their huts. I feel more confident now than ever that the Indians saw our approach on the nineteenth of March, and had succeeded in conveying across the river much of their plunder before we reached the ground.
    The Columbia touched at Port Orford on her upward trip on the morning of the ninth, at two o'clock, having on board General Wool, Colonel Ripley, Colonel Nauman and Lieutenant Arnold.
    Our expressman, Captain Tichenor, on reaching Euchre Creek, eight miles from here, saw a body of Indians ahead of him--he returned to the "Half Breed's House" and got some volunteers, who happened to be there, to accompany him to within a few miles of our camp. Yesterday Captain Bledsoe, who was in Fort Orford, dispatched a messenger to tell the volunteers, who were waiting for him at the "Half Breed's Shanty," to return to Rogue River. The expressman having communicated his orders, and started on his return to Port Orford, saw lying in the trail a spur, which he dismounted to pick up, when several shots were fired at him. Jumping on his horse he hurried back and overtook the volunteers about half way between there and the Miner's Fort, which is now occupied by them. He believes he saw forty Indians. Captain Ord's company was dispatched this morning to break up this ambuscade, as it is on our only road of communication between this place and Fort Orford. The part of the trail infested by them is only seven miles from the latter fort, and consequently Captain Smith might clear the trail if we could get an express to him--but this is difficult. Captain Smith's company will be ordered to leave Fort Orford on Monday for our camp.
    Major Latshaw, with one hundred volunteers, met the enemy on the twenty-third of February, on the head waters of the Coquille, and killed ten of them, with a loss of three of the former. On the twenty-third of March, Major Bruce, with two companies of volunteers, had a skirmish with the Indians between Deer Creek and the Illinois River, killing four, and losing no men. The above news comes in a Jacksonville paper, called the Table Rock [Sentinel].
    The Indians have lately cut off a pack train between Crescent City and Jacksonville--killing one or two men, and taking mules, provisions and everything else--twenty-five pounds of powder included. At another point Captain George's company of mounted volunteers went out to chastise a body of Indians, whom they expected to surprise in a good place for fighting. Leaving their animals tied without any guard, they marched quietly up a hill, expecting to fall upon the enemy on the other side. After proceeding a short distance, and looking behind, they beheld the Indians running off with the troops' horses.
    On the first of March a command of one hundred regulars, under Captain E. D. Keyes, Third Artillery, had an encounter with a body of Indians near Muckleshoot Prairie, on White River, in the vicinity of Puget Sound, Washington Territory. It was with the same Indians that attacked Seattle a few weeks ago. The expedition was fitted out under Lieutenant Colonel Silas Casey, of the Ninth Infantry, who commands that district. He commanded the main force on this occasion, but sent detachments out in different directions, to concentrate near Muckleshoot Prairie. Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, with a detachment of Company A, Fourth Infantry, and H, Ninth Infantry (the latter under the immediate command of Lieutenant D. B. McKibbin) fell in with the enemy. He immediately dispatched an express to Colonel Casey, who was supposed to be several days off. Kautz had his men in the driftwood, and the Indians theirs in the timber, until the arrival of Captain Keyes' Third Artillery, with a reinforcement of fifty men. The troops then charged, and drove the Indians from all the positions taken by them, and gained a complete victory. The regulars had one man killed, Lieutenant Kautz, and eight men wounded. [Kautz was not killed.] The Indians carried off their dead--but the friendly Indians say the troops killed seventeen and wounded twenty--among the latter their principal chief, Leschi.
    The Indians fled, and appeared to have left the neighborhood entirely. But about the tenth the picket perceived an Indian crawling up with the view of firing into camp. He fired whilst the latter was in the act of beckoning to his men to go back, and wounded him in the shoulder. He was brought into camp, and recognized as one of their principal chiefs--Kannasket. On being asked if he were not, he answered, "Yes, I am Kannasket, and I hate you." Soon after this firing was heard, and the troops supposing an attack, one of their men shot the chief dead.
    About the fifth of March, the volunteers were attacked by the Indians in the vicinity of White River. The Indians were defeated, leaving one man dead on the field. The particulars I have not learned.
    On the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth of March the Cascades, on the Columbia River, were attacked by the Indians. Some twelve of the inhabitants were massacred; the others took refuge in a blockhouse, and were relieved in the course of two days by Colonel Wright's command of United States troops. Sixteen of the Indians were captured, and fifteen of them were to be hung. All the plunder was retaken. Two soldiers were killed and several wounded.
    The Cascades is a very important place between Fort Vancouver and the Dalles. The Indians had planned their attack well, as Colonel Wright with the Ninth Regiment had left the Dalles but a few days previously, expecting to find the enemy in an entirely different direction. The Indians, however, supposed the troops were further off than they really were.

    Orders being issued for my return to Fort Orford to take charge of the general hospital at that post, I left camp at the mouth of Rogue River at six P.M. yesterday, in the schooner Gold Beach, and reached here last night about ten o'clock.
    The trip was unusually disagreeable, owing to the vessel being so exceedingly small, and so crowded with passengers, besides the sick and wounded men I was taking to the general hospital. The weather was unusually stormy and squally, and everybody seasick. This was rendered more unpleasant by the captain's keeping us all below, on account of the rain, and our being in the way on deck. The most perilous part of the trip was in coming over the bar, and through the breakers at the mouth of Rogue River. The course of the river at the mouth having changed greatly in the previous few days, it was considered a very hazardous undertaking to cross the bar for the first time, besides we were all kept below and the hatches closed, thus cutting off all chance of life to even good swimmers, in event of striking the bar and being capsized by the breakers, which were unusually heavy on account of the storm that was rising. Our captain knew nothing about sailing, never having had charge of a vessel before.
    On reaching Fort Orford (eighteen miles), the captain commenced firing guns to let the people know of our arrival, so that a boat might come to us. After a few shots our signal was answered from the fort. The people downtown hearing the firing, and not knowing its origin, betook themselves to their blockhouse, thinking the Indians close upon them.
    Captain Andrew J. Smith's company, 1st Dragoons, will leave this afternoon for Rogue River. He has with him Dr. Charles H. Crane, United States Army, and First Lieutenant N. B. Sweitzer, First Dragoons. These will join Colonel Buchanan's command. Lieutenant J. C. Bonnycastle, Fourth Infantry, and Assistant Surgeon J. J. Milham, United States Army, are now at Crescent City under orders also to join the command.
    The steamship Columbia arrived yesterday morning at daybreak, and discharging about one hundred and fifteen tons of freight, most of which were army supplies, left for Portland.
    April 28th, 1856.--Yesterday, Captain Augur's company escorted a mule train to this post for provisions; a train had also left for Crescent City for supplies, escorted by Captain Floyd-Jones' company. Captain Ord's company was dispatched from the mouth of the river on the twenty-seventh, to reinforce Floyd-Jones before he should have arrived at the most dangerous point, He did not start, however, until the return of Captain Smith and Brevet-Major Reynolds, who, with their respective companies, had been ordered up different sides of Rogue River, to scout and spy out the enemy. On the third day's march, a snow storm caught them, and the snow falling in places a foot deep, they were compelled to return to camp. A party of twelve volunteers accompanied Captain Smith on the north side of the river, some of whom left camp at daylight on the morning of the second day, and approaching Rogue River at the mouth of Lobster Creek, about one-half mile from camp, perceived two canoes, with, as they supposed, twelve "bucks" and two squaws, moving down the river. The Captain (Bledsoe) ordered his men to secrete themselves behind a large rock on the bank, and fire at the Indians as they came alongside. Fortunately for their purposes, the river forms at this point a sort of eddy, which the canoes took, thus approaching within a few yards of the volunteers, and moving slowly through the eddy, they were fired upon, having several of their number killed, and the others capsized. The volunteers reloaded and killed several more, they think in all eleven men and one squaw. The Indians' guns were lost in the water, and their canoes floated down the river, one of them lodging but a short distance below. Bledsoe, of course, desired to secure the latter, but as his detachment was too small to cope against a large body of the enemy, he prudently retired before the latter was reinforced, and joined Captain's Smith's command again, having already accomplished sufficient for one day.
    April 29th, 1856.--The bands of Indians in Southern Oregon, at present in open hostilities against the whites, are: First--in the Port Orford district, the Shasta Costas, Casataneys, Tootooteeneys, Chetcos, Euchres, Joshua band. Second--on upper Rogue River, Taltassaneys, Applegates (Old John's band), Shastas, Galicecreeks (pronounced Galeescreeks), George and Limpy's bands. The following tribes in Washington Territory and Eastern Oregon are hostile: the Cayuses, Klickitats, Yakimas, Chowchillas, Yumatillas, Walla Wallas and Pelouses.
    In regard to the causes of the present general Indian war in the Territories of Washington and Oregon there are, and will probably always be, two opinions. Several of the Indian agents are disposed to lay the blame mostly on the whites--while the latter think that the Indians are the guilty parties. In support of the first belief, so far as it relates to the trouble in Southern Oregon, Indian agent Ambrose reports to Superintendent Joel Palmer that the immediate cause of the outbreak was the killing, by a party of men calling themselves volunteers, of a number of friendly Indians. This statement, going broadcast over the land, is calculated to give a wrong impression as to the character of the settlers of Oregon. The truth is that the permanent residents of the latter, and her sister territory, Washington, have always, so far as I can learn, been particularly kind and considerate toward the red men. Being mostly frontiersmen from our Western States, having their families with them, they, aside from moral considerations, know the danger of maltreating the revengeful savage.
    The Indians have among themselves a large number of reckless and bad men, who, disregarding the restraints of their chiefs, are constantly stealing from and committing other lawless acts upon their white neighbors, who sometimes are forced, in self-defense, to put a stop to their aggressions in other modes beside moral suasion. It is, nevertheless, undeniable that among the large floating population of miners in the two territories there are a few vagabond whites, who treat the Indians harshly. It is probable that the party referred to by the Indian agent were of this class. Still there is no reason for attaching the blame to either party exclusively; for the notions, habits, and moral relations of the Indians and whites are so diametrically antagonistic that it is simply impossible for them to live side by side for many years without contentions. This has been the case ever since the earliest settlement of North America.
    Whilst acts of brutality, between the two races, are usually the proximate causes of most of the disturbances, yet there are predisposing agents behind all these. Such, for instance, on the Northwest Coast, as the donation laws of Congress, giving away to white settlers--half breed Indians included--all of the most valuable lands in the Territories of Washington and Oregon, without first extinguishing by treaty the possessory rights of the aborigines. So long as the latter were permitted to retire in peace to good fishing and hunting grounds, they yielded without much grumbling. In course of time, however, their new abodes became desirable to the whites, and the government was induced to make the Indians move again by offering them a moderate consideration, and future partial support for a certain number of years.
    Is it not the most natural thing in the world for the red man to chafe under these repeated efforts at changing his abode from the homes and graves of his kindred? It requires but a little cruel treatment under these circumstances to kindle in his savage breast a relentless thirst for blood. When once aroused he falls upon every white person he chances to meet; treating both friend and foe alike; thus often exhibiting one of the most inhuman of all traits--base ingratitude. Worse, if possible, than that other ignoble constituent of the Indian character--treachery. The various massacres that occurred in Southern Oregon alone, at the outbreak of the present disturbance, where so many victims fell by the hands of the savage fiends, are almost enough to stifle the sympathy of philanthropists for the Indian race. Yet, as these poor heathens are not educated to the high sense of right and wrong possessed by our more enlightened people, we ought to make some allowance for their barbarous acts.
    Day before yesterday Mr. Olney, the Indian agent, brought to garrison an old squaw, who was found coming through Port Orford. She seemed to be in almost a dying condition from disease, fatigue, fear and hunger. A little brandy and a slice of bread were given her; of the latter she ate a few mouthfuls. Being sufficiently refreshed, she informed the interpreter that she belonged to the Tootooteeneys, and had been sent by the Rogue River Indians to request the Port Orford band to tell the whites that they were tired of fighting, and desired peace; that the upper Rogue River Indians, and Enos, who had inveigled them into making war on the whites, had basely deserted them--that all their ranches and provisions were destroyed--many of their number killed and wounded, that they were nearly starving, and were desirous of peace, and were willing to come in and submit to anything the troops desired. Being put under charge of the guard, in comfortable quarters, for the night, she was, on the following morning, permitted to join the Indians on the reserve--for whether her story be true or false, the Colonel commanding the district was satisfied that all the news she could communicate to the tribes now on the military reserve would only convince them that they had better remain peaceable. Moreover she was exceedingly ill, and we were unwilling to have her die in the guard house, as the Indians might suppose she had met with foul play.
    The steamer Columbia touched here on her downward trip yesterday. General Wool, Colonel Nauman, Major Fitzgerald, and Lieutenant Arnold--all of the army--were passengers. The General was in fine spirits; being pleased, I suppose, with the recent reports of Colonel Buchanan and Colonel Casey in relation to the Indians in their respective districts. Colonel C., who commands Puget Sound district, reports that many of the Indians in that district are begging for peace, and that he has succeeded in driving the remainder beyond the mountains, far away from the settlements; and what is, perhaps, as equally pleasing to the old hero, he has learned that his management of the war on this coast has been approved by the War Department. This is particularly grateful to him, as he has been most bitterly censured by the Oregon press for his treatment of the volunteers, whom he refused to recognize unless they would properly enlist in the service of the United States. The Legislature of Oregon, together with Governor Curry, of the same Territory, and Governor Stevens, of Washington Territory, have all, within the past three months, petitioned the department for his recall--asserting that the General has utterly failed to render proper protection to the two Territories. I shall not discuss the matter further than to say that, as in most matters of this kind, there seems to be right and wrong on both sides. The Governors may have made a mistake in not permitting the volunteers to be enlisted in the service of the United States; and General Wool ought to have sent an escort to protect Governor Stevens on his return from the Blackfoot country last fall, where he had been to form a treaty with them--and from whence he had to return through the enemy's country--and had to depend upon the friendly Nez Perces for an escort.
    May 6th, 1856.--Yesterday Colonel Buchanan, Captain Augur, Lieutenant Chandler, with Company G, Fourth Infantry, left for the mouth of Rogue River. They took with them four friendly Indians--Tagnesia, the chief of the Elk River Indians; two squaws of the same tribe, and a little Indian boy belonging to the Indian agent; and an Indian boy prisoner, who was captured near Crescent City a few weeks ago, and sent to this post for confinement. He belongs to the Pistol River Indians, who fought the volunteers on the twentieth of March. His story is confirmatory of the squaw's statement that the Coast Indians are anxious to make peace.
    Company G simply came up here as an escort to a pack train, which has gone down with a good supply of shoes and provisions for the troops at the mouth of the river. When it arrives, and the one from Crescent City, which has perhaps reached there before this, the Colonel will be fully prepared for an effective campaign.
    If the Indians of the coast want peace, however, and will abide by his terms, he will probably have them all brought in and disarmed, preparatory to being moved on the Indian Reserve between this and the Columbia River, selected last year by General Palmer. At all events, he has taken the friendly Indians with him to send to the enemy and ascertain their wishes. One of the Indians is a very old squaw, whom the Chief intends to send to the hostile ranks first to ascertain the danger, and if there are none of the upper Indians among them, and no personal risk to be apprehended, he will then go himself. This is the universal custom of the Indians of this coast. Their oldest squaws have to go on all such dangerous errands.
    May 7th, 1856.--An express arrived from Rogue River yesterday, bringing among other things the news of a little brush between Captain Ord's company (B, Third Artillery), and the Indians at Chetco River, forty miles below the mouth of Rogue River, on the twenty-eighth or twenty-ninth ultimo. The Indians were lying in wait for the pack train, which was being escorted to the mouth of Rogue River from Crescent City by Company F, Fourth Infantry. It was feared that the enemy might give trouble about that point, hence Col. B. wisely dispatched Captain O. from the mouth of Rogue River, to reinforce Captain Floyd-Jones, ere he reached the dangerous portion of the route.
    The Indians were in ambush on the north side of Chetco, prepared to attack the train as it attempted to cross. They were disconcerted by Ord's coming up on the same side, and fled. Ord gave a running fight and killed six Indians, and took a women and child prisoners. The second chief of the Chetcos was among the slain. Ord had Sergeant Smith killed and one man wounded. From the squaw prisoner, Ord learned that the Indians engaged were the Chetcos, and about twenty-five from Rogue River. That they had been out in Smith's Valley burning houses, whence they returned to Pistol River to ambuscade the train.
    The expressman also learned that the Chief of the Joshuas had come down there a few days previously, persuading the Chetcos to make peace with the whites. Thus everything goes to show that many of the Rogue River Indians desire peace; but I fear that the few citizens and volunteers we have at Port Orford are disposed to throw obstacles in the way, for they assert their determination to shoot any and every Indian who has been known to kill a white man, either before or since the war. In accordance with these views, they yesterday tried and condemned by lynch law an Indian belonging to the Coquille band, who have just returned from the mountains to the government reserve, after being stampeded a few weeks since, and having a number of their "bucks" killed by some white persons. This Indian is supposed to be one of a party of Indians who massacred two white men about two and a half years ago.
    The lynch court sentenced him to be hung today at one P.M. It is said the Indian confesses being one of the party who committed the murder, but states that the whites have already killed four Indians for this murder, two of whom were innocent. This, according to the Indian law, should satisfy the whites; but, of course, it is no palliation by our laws, and if the Indian be guilty, he ought to be properly tried and punished, but not lynched.

    May 9th, 1856.--The sentence upon the Indian prisoner above spoken of was carried into effect. He was then buried near the foot of his gallows, on Battle Rock. The expressman, Mr. Sweat, arrived from the mouth of Rogue River yesterday afternoon. He brings the information that the troops, three hundred and forty-three in all, moved up Rogue River yesterday morning, with the olive branch in one hand and the sword in the other. The companies of Captain Ord, Brevet-Major Reynolds, and Captain Floyd-Jones (B, Third Artillery; H, Third Artillery; F, Fourth Infantry) have started on the south side of the river; and those of Captain Smith's and Captain Augur's (C, First Dragoons; G, Fourth Infantry) on the north side. Colonel Buchanan and Dr. Milhau accompany the command on the south, and Dr. C. H. Crane that on the north side. Of course the captains are with their own companies.
    May 17th, 1856.--By the steamer just from Portland, we learn that the First Regiment of mounted volunteers, under Colonel Cornelius, have had their horses stolen by the Indians--three hundred and ninety in all. It seems that, in accordance with the instructions of Governor Curry, the larger portion of the regiment had come in to within a few miles of the Dalles for the purpose of being disbanded. On the twenty-eighth of April they had their animals grazing about three-fourths of a mile from camp under the charge of a small guard when about fifty Yakimas, under old Kamiakin, came charging down the hill, whooping and swinging their blankets in the air--thus stampeding them all. The Indians were pursued, but without being overtaken. The number of animals lost was three hundred and fifty, which, added to the forty stolen from Fort Henrietta on the twentieth of April, where the remainder of the regiment was stationed, makes the aggregate above mentioned. The Indians of that section were already well mounted, but now they are doubly so--having taken some of the finest horses in Oregon.
    About the twenty-eighth of last month some six hundred volunteers, under General Lamerick, after seeking the upper Rogue River Indians for several weeks, came upon them at the Big Meadows; and notwithstanding the latter numbered only about one hundred warriors, and were encumbered with their families and stock, they succeeded in making their escape after a slight skirmish. It is true that the enemy were on the opposite side of Rogue River; which, however, was fordable. From all accounts the volunteers behaved bravely, and seemed eager for a fight; but disagreed among themselves as to the best mode of making an attack, the General being powerless, according to his statement to a friend of mine, to enforce a concerted movement. Yet Messrs. Drew and Hillman, who have just come through from Jacksonville, via Crescent City, state that they saw about three hundred of the volunteers at Fort Vannoy, where they had come to be disbanded, and that they were displeased with their commander for not allowing them to cross the river so as to get at the enemy.
    On the other hand, the Oregon press is filled with rumors of the great battle between the volunteers and Indians at the Meadows, with a loss of thirty or forty of the latter; which of the statements is correct, it is impossible to determine. There is a slight disposition in the Oregon newspapers to unduly extol the volunteers, and withhold from the regulars a proper share of praise.
    This condition of things is the natural effect of the unfortunate dissensions between the Governors of Oregon and Washington Territories, on the one hand, and General John E. Wool, of the Army, on the other, aided also by the fact that there have been no newspaper correspondents among the United States troops to laud their actions. Although an officer of the army, I do not think myself prejudiced in asserting that notwithstanding volunteers, composed of our hardy and brave frontiersmen, who are generally good marksmen, make far more effective troops for Indian fighting when well disciplined and under good officers, than regular soldiers, recently enlisted, and under officers fresh from the West Point Military Academy; yet the want of discipline in volunteer soldiers frequently paralyzes their usefulness.
    Taking the material as we generally find it at the period of sudden Indian outbreaks, the most valuable troops are regulars (not raw recruits), who have been taught to shoot well with rifle, aided by an equal number of sharp-shooters enlisted from the whites on the frontier, or even from friendly Indians, who are willing to obey orders, all under the command of officers experienced in Indian warfare.
    Aside from the inculcation of proper discipline, the art of war, as taught at the National Military School at West Point, though well suited to civilized warfare, is badly adapted for carrying on a war with a savage foe, especially such an enemy as the upper Rogue River Indian, whose home is in the forest and mountain strongholds; who subsists on the wild fruits and animals which he finds wherever he may roam; who fights only when the advantage of position or numbers is in his favor, and vanishes when the fates are against him; who battles mostly under cover of rocks and trees, and with a deadliness of aim only to be acquired by constant practice in hunting and fighting.
    The majority of regulars engaged in this war have had more or less experience in Indian warfare, and have been drilled at target practice until they have become average marksmen.
    With the exception of the company of dragoons, who have been dismounted and allowed to retain their musketoons, the men are all armed with a musket loaded with ball and buckshot. The first named weapon is illy suited for this kind of duty, and will prove a failure if too much relied upon. The officers carry a small breech-loading rifle, with an elevating back-sight--an admirable weapon in the hands of a good marksman.
    Whilst at the main camp at the mouth of Rogue River, the officers sometimes amused themselves with shooting at gulls, seals and ducks. Owing to my reputation of being a pretty good shot, I was bantered one day to try my luck at a duck swimming in the river two hundred yards from headquarters' tent, where the colonel and his staff, including myself, were standing. Regulating the elevating-sight of my rifle for the supposed distance, I surprised everybody by killing the duck at an off-hand shot. Perhaps I could not have done so well again in a hundred trials, yet my reputation of being a crack shot was at once established. Many a man's renown in more important matters comes upon him as suddenly and unexpectedly as mine on this occasion.
    May 20th, 1856.--The schooner Iowa, being anchored in the bay, broke her cable last night, and was driven ashore by the gale; she is likely to prove a total wreck. Yesterday afternoon a pack train of nearly two hundred animals, escorted by Company B, Third Artillery, arrived from Colonel Buchanan's command. Captain Ord states that the troops are encamped at Oak Flats, on the east side of the Illinois, and five miles south of Rogue River. That the Colonel is having a talk with the Coast Indians, and several of the upper Rogue River bands, who seem to be desirous of peace. He has demanded of them an unconditional surrender, except that they shall be protected if they are willing to come in and cease fighting. He does not beg them, however, to come to terms--on the contrary tells them if they want peace, and will submit to his terms, it is all right--if otherwise, to say so at once, and he is prepared to whip them into measures.
    The Coast Indians have already signified their assent. The upper Rogue River Indians had not arrived when the train left, but Captain Ord met Old George's band, and a part of Limpy's, five miles this side of camp. They had posted themselves on both sides of the Rogue River at the mouth of the Illinois, and were waiting to hear from Captain Smith, whom they knew, before going to the Colonel's camp. They were decidedly shy at first, and kept a position of readiness for battle in case the whites pitched into them. The chief, however, signified by a white flag that he did not wish to fight. The troops, after crossing the river, and having a short talk with them, proceeded on to this place. Old George's band is represented as a fine-looking body of men, well armed and clothed. Every man had on a headdress with a feather in the top. In fact they presented quite a military appearance. The number present was forty or fifty. Most of the Coast Indians are already in the vicinity of the camp--they number several hundred warriors.
    May 28th, 1856.--Oliver Cantwell came in yesterday as express from Colonel Buchanan's command, which had left Camp Oak Flats and encamped on the north side of Rogue River, four miles from the mouth of the Illinois. After Captain Ord had met George and Limpy's bands, as spoken of above, they sent word to Colonel B. that they desired to have a talk with him, but wished to see Captain Smith first. The latter accordingly took his company and went down to meet them; and on the following day Old George and Limpy marched their men to within two hundred yards of camp, and then taking twelve or fifteen as a body guard went to the Colonel and had a talk. They at first, together with the Coast Indians, insisted on being permitted to remain in their present country; that they were willing to give up their arms, and do almost anything, if this request were granted them. The Colonel told them that this could not be allowed, as they had already bound themselves by treaty to go on to the reservation, and that he was determined that they should go. After three days both Old George and Limpy, of the upper Rogue River Indians, and Joshua, of the Coast Indians, declared that they would go on to the reservation. The other Indians had not made up their minds on the subject when the expressman left.
    The Colonel is waiting at his present camp for the arrival of the pack train with provisions from this post. This left here last Friday evening; but as it took a different route from what Colonel B. anticipated, it will cause him several days' delay in the prosecution of his plans--the first of which seems to be to send such of the tribes as are willing to the reservation immediately. The Superintendent of Indian affairs, General Joel Palmer, left with the pack train to join Colonel B., and will, no doubt, concur in all that has been done by the latter.
    May 30th, 1856.--The Columbia arrived from Portland yesterday; she did not touch on her upward trip. The news from above is unimportant, except that the regulars, about four hundred, under Colonel Wright, had met with some twelve hundred Indians, under old Kamiakin, and had a talk, which was not satisfactory, and that a fight was consequently expected in a few days.
    The most exciting news is from San Francisco. It appears that the editor of the Evening Bulletin, James King, was shot by James P. Casey, the editor of another evening paper, on the afternoon of the fourteenth of May, and that he died on the twentieth. The excitement was intense. A vigilance committee (the first for several years) was immediately formed to take the matter into consideration. Twenty-nine persons composed the committee proper, whose deliberations were held profoundly secret. These were supported by some twenty-nine hundred others, who were sworn to carry out all the decisions of the twenty-nine. King was buried on the twenty-second instant. On the same day, and about the same hour, Casey, his murderer, and Cora, the man who shot General Richardson a few months ago, were hanged by authority of the Vigilance Committee, after receiving a trial before this body.
    It is stated that both of these men had the sympathy of such a large class of lawless men in San Francisco that it would have been utterly useless to have gone through the mockery of a trial in the customary legal process. It is further asserted that there have been some three hundred murders committed in San Francisco during the past few years, and only three men convicted and hung; also that the Vigilance Committee is composed of the best men in the city; that even the pulpit, with scarcely a single exception, were in favor of the people's taking the matter in their own hands, as it was impossible to ensure justice in any other way.
    If there ever was a time when such measures were necessary, it was undoubtedly on this occasion; but all such proceedings are very sure to lead to evil. The thing may ultimately fall into the hands of vicious and lawless persons, who will do much harm. The example is a bad one.
    It is alleged that King was shot by Casey because he exposed in the Bulletin some of the rascality of the latter, who was formerly in the Sing Sing Prison, New York.
    June 3rd, 1856.--An express of two men, Walker and Foster, arrived this morning from the troops whom they left at the Big Bend of Rogue River. The express before this brought the news of the main camp being a few miles this side of Rogue River, near the mouth of the Illinois. Whilst remaining there awaiting for the pack train which left Fort Orford last Friday week, the Colonel sent Major Reynolds a day's travel on the trail to this post, to meet the pack train, and with instructions about getting in some of the lower Indians. About the same time Captain Andrew Smith, of the First Dragoons, was ordered to the Big Bend with his and a portion of E Company, in all about ninety men, on foot, to assist in getting in old George and Limpy's bands. On arriving there, old George sent him word that the other hostile tribes had surrounded and prevented his coming in as soon as he expected, and warned Smith that the hostile bands, headed by Old John, intended attacking his camp (Smith's), and would at first attempt a little strategy, Old John to pretend that he desired peace, and wished to have a talk; in the meantime, to send into Smith's camp a body of naked, unarmed Indians, equal in number to the soldiers, and at the moment that the latter became most unsuspecting and careless, to seize upon their arms. This was to have been done at a given signal, and each Indian to grab a soldier's musket when the fight, or rather massacre, was to begin. Sure enough, on the following day, some fifty or sixty athletic Indians, naked and unarmed, came into camp, saying that Old John desired to have a talk. Smith ordered them to leave, and they did, but only went a few hundred yards and picked up their guns, which had been secreted, and commenced an attack. They were immediately joined by many others. Smith now found himself surrounded by from three to four hundred Indians, who kept firing into his camp from the morning of the twenty-eighth instant, to the afternoon of the twenty-ninth, when Captain Augur arrived on the ground with his Company G, Fourth Infantry. Smith's men raised a shout, and the two commands. charged the enemy, and completely routed them. The number lost by the latter is not known, as the dead were carried off the field.
    The troops had twenty-nine killed and wounded, nine killed on the field, and several deaths from severe wounds before the expressman left, which was on the thirty-first ultimo. All of the killed and wounded but five belonged to Smith's command. Smith's position was on a rising piece of ground, surrounded by a rather open woods. He took this as the best position he could secure in the immediate neighborhood, after he had been informed of the contemplated attack. It does not appear that he had attempted to throw up any defenses previous to the fight, doubtless deeming it inexpedient and bad policy. After getting Old George's warning, he dispatched a messenger to Col. Buchanan, who forthwith sent to the "Soldiers' Camp" for Reynolds' company to come to headquarters, so as to enable him to dispatch reinforcements to Smith, if necessary.
    When the second express arrived from the latter, stating that the Indians had surrounded and cut him off from water, etc., Captain Augur's company, which, together with Jones' F, Fourth Infantry, had been engaged in cutting a trail from opposite the mouth of the Illinois to the Big Bend, was immediately dispatched to his relief. About the same time, the Colonel was informed that the pack train was coming up on the opposite side of the river. This, instead of returning on the same trail it came to Fort Orford, had taken a much more circuitous and longer, but perhaps better one, under the circumstances, i.e., instead of going an almost due east course to the mouth of the Illinois, as the Colonel had anticipated, Captain Ord had crossed Rogue River forty-five miles below that point, and gone up its south side. He did this because the road was better, and because he had reasons to suppose that the Indians would attack his train if he returned on the same route that he came. However, when the Colonel was informed what route the train had taken, he kept F. Company to assist in getting it across Rogue River, near the mouth of the Illinois. When this was accomplished, and Major Reynolds' company (H, Third Artillery), had arrived, the whole force marched for the Big Bend, where it was when the express left on the thirty-first.
    It is pretty well ascertained that a part of nearly all the hostile bands of Rogue River were engaged in Smith's fight, except those of George, Limpy and Joshua, and even some few of these, but against the orders of their chiefs. Had Smith not received warning from old George, every man of his command would have been butchered, and even as it was, they would all have been slain had not Captain Augur arrived as soon as he did, for they were entirely cut off from water, and only held out as long as they did by digging holes in the ground on the night of the twenty-eighth (the night after the first day's attack), with their tin pans, and throwing up a little embankment of dirt. It is related that the Indians charged bravely up to this temporary defense; and in one instance a party of them crawled up and threw into the entrenchment a stick, to make the men carelessly jerk up their heads, that they might get a better shot at them. On this occasion, a little Indian boy, whom the troops had with them as an interpreter, raised himself a little and was instantly killed. It is related that the men behaved gallantly; but as they were miserably armed with short musketoons, loaded with ball, it is believed that they did not do half the execution that might have been accomplished had they had good rifles, or even the government musket, loaded with buckshot and ball. The other companies were armed with the latter, but Smith's being a dragoon company, dismounted for the occasion, retained their musketoons.
    The more I see of Indian fighting, the more am I convinced that the present system of arming men with musketoons or muskets, for this species of warfare, is a great error. They should have rifles, and be taught to shoot well by constant practice; and the present custom of employing soldiers while in garrison, on almost continuous hard fatigue duty, without any or very little drilling at target shooting, should be abolished.
    During the fight with Captain Smith, a party of a hundred and fifty volunteers, under the command of Major Latshaw, came across George and Limpy's camps and captured some women, children and provisions. It is asserted that but few, if any, of the warriors belonging to these chiefs were engaged against Smith's command, but that they were only waiting to surrender; still, I presume, the volunteers were not aware of this, and it is highly probable that the proximity of the latter aided to hasten the retreat of the hostile Indians.
    June 5th, 1856.--Stampedes are now the order of the day in Port Orford. As the number of men in the place is not over a dozen since the volunteers left, and the troops remaining to garrison this post are raw recruits, and number only about sixteen besides the sick, and as this is the depot of military stores, and hence a very desirable point for the enemy to capture, the people are very excitable upon the subject of Indians.
    On the first instant several of the friendly Indians, who started out from here with the superintendent, General Joel Palmer, and the last pack train, returned, bringing us the first news of the fight between the troops and Indians at the Big Bend. As their sympathies are, of course, with their own race, they represented the late events in a very unfavorable light for the troops; also stated that the Chetcos were coming up to steal away from the military reserve the Indian prisoners belonging to that tribe.
    On the morning of the second a man by the name of Parker went down the coast for about six miles to hunt some lost cattle. Shortly thereafter he came running in, and stated that he had been pursued and fired upon by a party of Indians, who followed him within sight of the village. He left his horse behind, having hitched, and gone off from him a short distance when he saw the Indians. We all took our spyglasses and looked down the coast in the direction stated, and beheld some fifteen Indians at the distance of four miles from this place. At first we could not tell whether they were marching slowly up towards the village or not. One thing we could see, however, that the advance party, on reaching what is called Rocky Point, three miles from here, waited for them behind to come up. It was now a matter of doubt whether they were hostile or not. If unfriendly, everyone was satisfied that they would be supported by much larger parties coming in other directions. After they came around Rocky Point, however, and marched carelessly along the beach, we felt satisfied that they were not hostile. They turned out to be the Indian guides whom Colonel Buchanan took out with him, together with some of the Port Orford Indians, who had been at the mouth of Rogue River when the outbreak occurred; and who were previously unable to return.
    Night before last some of the loafers about town, styling themselves members of the Vigilance Committee, represented to the commanding officer that two of the Indians, who arrived on the second instant, were believed to have been present at the massacre on the twenty-second of February, at the mouth of Rogue River, and wished permission to take and try them. Knowing what an excitement this would create among the Indians on the reservation, if white men were permitted to arrest everyone who was supposed to have done anything since the breaking out of the troubles, and yet not having a sufficient guard to keep them away from the Indians, the commanding officer of Fort Orford had the suspected Indians placed in the guard-house, and at the same time informed the Indians that they should not be disturbed or tried before General Palmer came back. This was done to keep the mob from shooting them. That night the Chetco prisoners, numbering some twenty, deserted the reservation. It is not known, yet suspected, that the other Indians on the reservation were aware when they left, and probably assisted them--as they evidently sympathize heart and soul with their race--and are, moreover, anxious that the war should be prolonged in order that they may not be moved out of their present country.
    Last night there was another stampede in Port Orford; and today the few settlers who had gone to mining and farming between this and Cape Blanco, ten miles up the coast, came running in. They say that Indians have been lurking in the neighborhood--and that those on the reservation are surly and cross. I am not astonished at the latter, for a few vagabond whites will not let their squaws alone, even under the present alarming state of affairs. It is a great pity that these fellows cannot be punished for their conduct--but the laws are powerless in the matter. I hope the settlers will now either stay in, or, if they go out again, remain quietly at their occupations; for this stampeding at every little excitement is just what the Indians rejoice to witness.
    June 8th, 1856.--A storm of rain and wind from the southeast since day before yesterday. A schooner, the Francisco, anchored in the bay, broke her fastenings night before last, and came ashore upon the rocks. This is the second vessel wrecked here within a few weeks. The captains may hereafter take warning, and put to sea when a southeaster springs up.
    On the evening of the sixth a white man, calling himself Morrison, was arrested in Port Orford by the citizens, and put in the guard-house at this post. He came here through the heart of the Indian country, and tells such contradictory and inconsistent stories, that it is thought by many that he has been acting with the hostile Indians, and may have come here with the view of procuring ammunition, etc., for the enemy. I am inclined, however, to believe that he is insane, and being in want of work, has ventured through the enemy's ranks alone, unarmed, and without provisions, believing himself perfectly safe in so doing. If so, he has certainly run a gantlet that few would like to venture on. He is evidently a consummate fool or knave--it is difficult to say which.
    The Columbia arrived yesterday, bringing no. news of importance, except from San Francisco. They are having an exciting time there at present; almost equal to the reign of terror in France. The Vigilance Committee is still supreme, and supported by a majority of the clergymen, and all the papers in the city except the Herald. Nobody has been hung since the last steamer, but some twenty or thirty have been ordered out of the city. Yankee Sullivan, the celebrated prize fighter, was brought before the Vigilance Committee for trial, and whilst in custody committed suicide. Governor Johnson has issued a proclamation calling upon all good citizens to support law and order, and ordering out the state militia--that is, all young men between the ages of eighteen and twenty-five. William T. Sherman, formerly a lieutenant in the United States army, but now a banker in San Francisco, is the Major General of militia. When the steamer left the proper authorities were busily engaged in enrolling the latter; but the call of the Governor, and order of General Sherman, had not been very promptly answered. It is to be hoped that no open collision between the authorities of the land and that of the Committee will take place, but things present an alarming aspect at this time.
    June 9th, 1856.--Captain Tichenor brought an express from Colonel Buchanan's headquarters yesterday. He says the troops have had two more fights with the Indians. The first was a mere skirmish, and occurred on the fourth instant, with a party of Indians three or four miles above the mouth of the Illinois on Rogue River. The latter were engaged in fishing, and had four or five killed; the troops none. The detachment consisted of Company H, Third Artillery, and Captain Bledsoe's volunteer company, under the command of Major J. C. Reynolds, United States army.
    On the following day, in accordance with the instructions from Colonel Buchanan, Bledsoe's company moved down the south side of Rogue River, and Captain Augur's Company G, Fourth Infantry, the north side, and fell upon the Indians at a point some four or five miles below the mouth of the Illinois. The latter were again completely routed--sixteen of their number killed. The regulars and volunteers shared the fight equally, and each killed about the same number of Indians, with a loss of only one man and three wounded.

    June 12th, 1856.--The people of Port Orford, and Fort Orford, have been excited for the last three days in consequence of the discovery of a plan on the part of the Indians on the military reservation here to make an attack on the fort and town. They were to be assisted by the Rogue River Indians, with whom, it is asserted, they hold constant communication. The attack to be made as soon as the weather got dry and windy--when the Indians here (who have no guns) were to pitch in with their knives and clubs; also set fire to the buildings; and the others to do all the shooting. Various circumstances go to prove this story, though it was first divulged by a squaw to the wife (a half breed) of a Frenchman. These Indians have become very impudent and saucy since the return of their chiefs from Colonel Buchanan's camp. In fact they were sent back on account of their insolence there, where they did far more harm than good. Since returning they have repeatedly asserted that the Bostons could not subdue the Indians, and that they would not go on to the reservation. But as it is believed that their plans have been disconcerted by the last successes of the troops on the Rogue River Indians, and as it is bad policy to take harsh steps with them until it is proven beyond all shadow of doubt that they really intended to break out, the matter will be allowed to pass over; we remaining on the alert in the meantime.
    June 13th, 1856.--An express from Colonel Buchanan's camp, reached here yesterday morning, with the news that the Coast Indians are gradually coming in and giving up their arms, with the view of going on the reservation.
    Colonel Buchanan's whole command is on the north side of Rogue River, at three different points, and the volunteers (about three hundred), under General Lamerick, on the south side. The Indians seem to be pretty well intimidated. Just as the expressman was leaving, Old John, of the upper Rogue River Indians, sent in word that he thought his band would come in also; but the old rascal is so treacherous that it is exceedingly difficult to judge of his sincerity. He may have another scheme in view.
    The squaw who divulged the anticipated outbreak here now asserts that the Indians intend giving up only such guns as the whites know to be in their possession, and a few old ones besides, and after they have convinced the troops of their sincerity, and got them off their guard, they are to seize the soldiers' guns, and commence a general onslaught. She says this is to be done on their arrival at this post, when the Indians now on the military reservation are to assist them. She also told the Indian Agent this morning that spies were in the Indian camp night before last again, and that they brought several guns with them. In consequence of this report, the agent sent for the chiefs this morning, and whilst talking with them got the commanding officer of this post to send out three or four men to examine the Indian ranches for arms, etc. In the meantime, he asked the chiefs if they had any; they said no. The guard took with them the squaw above spoken of, to point out where she thought the arms were secreted; but the Indians swarmed around her so thickly that she afforded but little assistance. The guard, however, found two guns, which are thought to belong to the Coquille Indians, now on the reservation. As the chiefs had pretended to give up all their arms, and were found to have acted in bad faith, they were now told that it was known that they had other guns which must be brought in immediately. They finally acknowledged having a few more, which they said should be sent in this afternoon.
    June 14th, 1856.--The Indians sent in the guns yesterday, as promised. This morning, the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, General Palmer, arrived from the "field." He states that Colonel Buchanan's command is on its way with two hundred and seventy-one upper Rogue River Indians, George and Limpy's bands, and four hundred and thirty-one Coast Indians. It is very doubtful whether Old John will come in. Personally, he is for war; but since a young Indian, who has been with Old Sam's band on the Indian Reservation for a short time was sent by the Colonel to talk with John's band, many of the latter seem anxious to quit fighting and come in also. On Old John's hearing this, he burst out crying, and said if all his people left him, he might be compelled to come in also.
    June 15th, 1856.--Colonel Buchanan, Captain Smith, Captain Augur, Doctor Milhau, Lieutenant Chandler, Lieutenant Ihrie and Company C, First Dragoons, Companies E and G, Fourth Infantry, arrived this afternoon, with over seven hundred Indians. The latter, together with the four hundred now on the Military Reservation here, make eleven hundred, all of whom are to be moved forward to the Indian Reservation, some one hundred and twenty-five miles further up the coast, in a few days, or as soon as the Colonel can hear from the command at the mouth of Rogue River, as to whether Old John's people and the Chetcos and Pistol River Indians are coming in. They are about the only ones now hostile on Rogue River, and number perhaps five or six hundred men, women and children. A portion of Company E, Fourth Infantry, under Lieutenant Sweitzer, having gone down Rogue River to its mouth, in canoes with the wounded, were at that point yesterday when heard from. Captain Ord and Major Reynolds' companies were dispatched there this morning, from the Colonel's camp of last night, to reinforce the guard of the wounded, and bring in all the Indians who were willing to go on the reservation.
    In consequence of threats by the citizens of Port Orford to shoot some of the Indians now under charge of the troops, Colonel Buchanan has issued orders to shoot any man who attempts to kill an Indian.
    June 20th, 1856.--We imagined that after the main body of troops arrived, stampedes would die away at this place, but another occurred last night. Yesterday afternoon Colonel Buchanan and General Palmer were informed by several Indians--Old George among the number, whose word is believed since the information he gave Captain S. turned out to be true--that the Indians brought in here had it in contemplation to rise night before last, and attempt to kill the troops, and take the town and fort; but concluded to postpone it till last night, when the attack was to have commenced. We could not fully credit this report, but under the circumstances General Palmer deemed it prudent to cause the chiefs (some eight or ten) of the different bands to be arrested and placed in confinement for the night. Whatever their intentions may have been, this put a stop to them.
    Last night about two o'clock the steamer Columbia arrived on her upward trip, and lay here until eleven this morning. She took on board about six hundred Indians from the military reservation of this post, bound for Portland; thence by land to the Indian reservation. They were escorted by G Company, Fourth Infantry, under the command of Captain Augur. The Superintendent of Indian Affairs, General Palmer, also accompanied them. Most of these Indians belonged to the hostile bands. Those remaining here, and such as may yet be brought in, will, perhaps, be sent up in two or more detachments by land. Three of Old John's sons came in yesterday, and stated that their father's band is at the mouth of the Illinois, and that he is willing to come in. One of them was dispatched to him today with the request that he should come to a designated point some twelve miles from here and surrender to Captain Ord, who is ordered to proceed from the mouth of Rogue River with his and Major Reynolds' companies to that place. By the steamer we learned that the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco are still supreme--numbering some fifteen thousand men. The law and order party have been unable to offer any resistance. Several new arrests have been made since the last steamer, and many persons ordered to quit the city.
    June 28th, 1856.--Captain Ord, with his and Major Reynolds' companies, arrived here on the twenty-third, and left again with the same command on the following day for the "field." His orders were to proceed to a point on the Big Bend trail, some twelve miles from here, and await the arrival of Old John, who is expected to surrender to him.
    Yesterday an express came in from the Captain with the information that Old John, with his whole band, would probably reach his camp in three days from day before yesterday. When the latter and the Chetcos shall have come in, the Rogue River war may be considered closed.
    July 2nd, 1856.--This morning Captain Ord's command arrived, bringing in the famous Old John and his band--the terror of Southern Oregon. Ord went some twelve miles from here, and sent for Old John to come in--the latter reached his camp on the twenty-ninth ultimo, and gave up twenty-five guns--all good and in excellent order. It is supposed that he has retained a good many pistols--if so, these also will probably be taken away from him. He brings with him thirty-five men, capable of bearing arms, ninety women, and ninety children. He is about fifty-five years old--not at all prepossessing in appearance--has a resolute, discontented, and unhappy appearance. The disparity between the number of women and men is partially owing to the fact that more of the latter have been killed in battle, but in a measure also to the habit of the men of this band marrying squaws belonging to other tribes. Being the most warlike tribe in the country they enjoy this privilege more than any other band.
    July 5th, 1856.--Yesterday the grand anniversary of our National Independence was celebrated by a Federal salute of thirteen guns at dawn of day, and thirty-one at noon, and at nine P.M. by five rockets, which were sent up from the highest point of the heads, to the great admiration and astonishment of the Indians, most of whom had never seen the like before. In Port Orford thirty-one guns were fired at noon, and thirteen at sundown. The second gun at noon went off prematurely, burning the man who was ramming the charge very severely--the ramrod was shot between his hands into the ocean. The accident was owing to his not sponging the piece before loading it. Several fights also occurred in the village. After our national salute all the officers assembled at the Colonel's quarters and partook of refreshments. We were then informed by Colonel B. that he had the pleasure of announcing the Indian war on Rogue River closed.
    July 8th, 1856.--The steamer Columbia arrived here last evening, and left today at one P.M.for Portland, taking on board at this place five hundred and ninety-two Indians, (excluding infants) who are being escorted by Captain Delancey Floyd-Jones' Company F, Fourth Infantry, to the coast reservation. Day after tomorrow the remainder of the Indians, including Old John's band, and a portion of the Chetcos, will also start for the same destination. They are to go by land, and will be accompanied by Major Reynolds' company, H, Third Artillery, and a detachment of Company E, Fourth Infantry. All the Indians of Southern Oregon, with the exception of a few stragglers, have surrendered. They number eighteen hundred persons, besides the small children.
    July 12th, 1856.--Old John's band got off on the tenth instant, escorted by Major Reynolds' company, and a detachment of Company E, Fourth Infantry. The officers were Major Reynolds, Doctor Milhau, Lieutenant Chandler and Lieutenant Drysdale. The troops took with them over two hundred splendid mules; one hundred and sixty of which were used as pack animals. They had provisions for themselves (ninety men) and the Indians (one hundred and twenty-five men, women and children, infants excluded) for ninety days. Old John's party was larger than this; but some of them went up on the steamer. Most of the Chetcos were sent by sea; the remainder of the latter are included in the above one hundred and twenty-five.
    I rode out in the afternoon to Major Reynolds' first day's camp, and partook of a parting dinner with him. On the same day Company C, First Dragoons, commanded by Captain A. J. Smith, started for the post to be established at the upper end of the reservation. As he was to go via Fort Lane, he went down the coast instead of up. He had with him only forty-five men--the officers are himself, Dr. C. H. Crane and Lieutenant Nelson B. Sweitzer. Companies C and E took a few of their convalescent wounded with them; the remainder, except two who have died since their arrival here, remain in the general hospital at this post, of which I am still in charge. When Colonel Buchanan, Captain Ord, and Lieutenant Ihrie, with Company B, Third Artillery, leave here tomorrow, Lieutenant R. Macfeely and myself will be the only officers remaining at the post; and besides the sick, hospital steward, hospital attendants, and some three others, there will be no troops.
    July 13th, 1856.--The steamer Columbia touched this morning on her downward trip, taking on board Colonel Buchanan, Captain Ord and Lieutenant Ihrie, and Company B, Third Artillery.
    By the previous steamer, we learned that Colonel Wright was still with his forces on the Natchez River, holding a council with the hostile Indians, who seemed disposed to make peace. This steamer brings the news that the Indians have all fled, and that the troops have thus far been unable to make peace or get a fight out of them. The Colonel has gone in pursuit.
    July 14th, 1856.--Judge Deady arrived here day before yesterday, to hold court at Port Orford; accompanying him was Dr. Evans, United States Geologist for Oregon. I had the pleasure of forming the acquaintance of the latter gentleman on my trip from New York to San Francisco, and was delighted to renew the same at this lonesome place, Port Orford.
    The Doctor, being anxious to make a geological examination of this vicinity, started for the mouth of Brush Creek yesterday morning, in a canoe, accompanied by Mr. R. W. Dunbar and myself. Our course lay across the bay of Orford, distance by water four or five miles. The ocean being calm on starting, we got along delightfully for a while; then the wind freshened from the south, blowing thus against us; our progress was extremely slow, especially as none of us knew much about managing a canoe. Dr. Evans now became seasick, and was so prostrated as to be totally unable to render any assistance. Mr. Dunbar and myself labored hard to reach our destination before the wind should become too strong; but on nearing the goal, we found the breakers too high to land. There was then no alternative but to turn about for Fort Orford again. The sea had become quite rough, particularly so near the shore. It was now my turn to be seasick, but though ill and exhausted, I felt in duty bound to assist Mr. Dunbar in navigating our frail bark. Dr. E. was entirely too much prostrated to do anything. We rigged a sail out of Mr. D.'s coat, and availed ourselves of the wind, which lasted till we had gone about a mile. As the wind was evidently about to change to the northwest, we paddled away manfully, and arrived at Fort Orford just in time to escape a strong headwind. Besides the geological examination, we had it in contemplation to fish for trout in Brush Creek. The elements blasted all our bright prospects.
    July 26th, 1856.--From the nineteenth to the twenty-second there was a strong wind from southeast, and rain at intervals, something very unusual at this season. The atmosphere is at present clear, with a northwest trade wind; thermometer 57 deg. at 7 A.M. and 65 deg. at 2 P.M. This is the ordinary July and August weather of this place. The only fruits that have yet ripened in this vicinity during the present season are strawberries, salmonberries, black, thimble and salal berries, first two about a month ago; the others are just in their maturity.
    The steamer Columbia arrived on the morning of the twenty-third, bringing New York papers of the twentieth June, and San Francisco of the twenty-first July. The Vigilance Committee is still supreme in the latter place. They have confined their action mainly to driving from the city election bullies, and others known to have been engaged in ballot-box stuffing and false voting. The most remarkable arrest by them so far is Judge Terry, Chief Justice of the State of California. He is alleged to have stabbed a Vigilance Committee sheriff by the name of Hopkins, about the third of July. It seems that the latter had gone into the office of Dr. Ash, the Navy Agent, to arrest Reuben Maloney for some purpose. The Doctor ordered him out; Judge Terry, being present, had also something to say to him. Hopkins then sent to the Vigilance Committee for aid. In the meantime, the Judge and Maloney started for the rooms of the law and order party; but Hopkins, assisted by his friends, overtook him and seized hold of his gun; a scuffle ensued, when he was stabbed by Terry. The latter was then arrested and placed in confinement, and has since been tried by the committee, but the sentence is not yet divulged. It is supposed that if Hopkins had died, and he has been very near it, from the wound assuming an erysipelatous character, that the Judge would have been hung.
    The Governor is powerless, he having called on the militia and all others to enroll themselves and assist in putting down the committee, but has so far utterly failed. A lot of government arms sent down by his order was seized by authority of the latter.
    The last great move of the committee supporters was to call a mass meeting, which convening, recommended among other things that as the following officers were supposed to have been elected by fraudulent votes, they should be requested by a committee of the mass meeting to resign, viz: Judge Freelon, Mayor Van Ness, Sheriff Scannell, District Attorney Byrne, County Clerk Hays, Recorder Kohler, Treasurer Woods, Assessor Stillman, Surveyor Gardner, Coroner Kent, Superintendent Pelton, and Justices Ryan, Chamberlain and Castree. This recommendation, among others, was adopted; but up to the departure of the Columbia, the above government officials still held on, refusing to resign.
    This committee seems to be supported by a majority of the best men in San Francisco, and it was undoubtedly originated with the best motives; but like all other opposition to the regular course of law, even though the latter may not for the time being be justly executed, will probably have an evil tendency, and might terminate in civil war.
    It is a heart-rending fact that the latter is already existing in our country, but at a very different place, and impelled by other motives; I mean in Kansas Territory. There have already been several skirmishes between free-soilers and pro-slavery partisans, and the free soil town of Kansas has been burnt to the ground. It is difficult to get at the facts in the case, but it appears that the territorial sheriff, Jones, went to Kansas with a strong posse, to make some arrests. The citizens resisted, a fight ensued, and the free-soilers were compelled to leave the place, which was then burnt to the ground. The territorial officers appear to be supported by the pro-slavery party.
    Colonel Summer, with a regiment of United States dragoons, is, by special orders from the President, endeavoring to quell the riots, and had up to last dates disarmed many of the rioters and prevented them from assembling in any very large bodies. The matter is becoming so serious, however, that it has even been debated in the Senate whether or not the President should be recommended to send General Scott to Kansas, to quiet matters.

    Sometime about the first ultimo, a pack train, accompanied by some five or six packers, left here for Crescent City. A few days thereafter, a portion of the party arrived at the latter place with the news that they had been attacked whilst asleep at night in camp, near the Chetco River, and two of their number killed, and some $1,500 taken. They represented it to have been done by Indians, there still being a few of the latter remaining in the mountains in that vicinity, who were left behind when the other hostile ones were taken to the reservation.
    A company was raised in Crescent City, and started for the place where the murder was committed. On reaching there, they found all the mules, but no aparejos. It was supposed that the Indians cut these up and carried them off.
    On the seventh instant, whilst a few miners were "prospecting" (examining the country for gold) near the mouth of Rogue River, some twenty-five miles above where the murder was committed, an Indian came into their camp and said that there were some very bad Indians in that vicinity who intended killing a man by the name of Smith, living a short distance below there. Their plan was to send into Smith's camp two Indians pretending friendship, who were to fall upon and murder him. He expressed a desire to go with them, and point out a place for waylaying the Indians that were coming to Smith's, and said that afterwards he would show them where to find the others; but that they must not kill his tillicums (relatives), among the latter.
    The two Indians were accordingly watched for, two miles north of Pistol River, and fired upon, but only one was killed, the other made his escape. This was on Thursday, the seventh instant. On the following day, a party of eight white men started out at the suggestion of the Indian, who accompanied them, to waylay the other Indians, who were expected to come and look after the man who had been shot. They proceeded a short distance below the point where the latter had been killed, when the Indian guide who had gone in advance came running back with the information that several Indians were a little in advance of them. At his suggestion, they took a good position behind a ridge, whilst he went off a few yards and showed himself to the Indians, who came towards the guide, and on reaching the place where he was standing, were fired upon, five being killed and the sixth wounded, who escaped. A little further on they saw three more, and succeeded in shooting them also; thus killing eight and wounding two.
    The poor guide was accidentally severely wounded by one of the white men in the encounter; when another, thinking, perhaps, it was better to put him out of misery, killed him.
    August 13th, 1856.--The news by the Columbia this morning from above is very interesting. Colonel Wright, United States army, is still endeavoring to make peace with the Yakimas, and other hostile Indians in that vicinity. In the meantime some volunteers, under Colonel Shaw, have had an engagement with a body of Indians at Grande Ronde Prairie, on a river of the same name. The Colonel had under him at the time one hundred and eighty mounted men; and, according to the papers, succeeded in routing the enemy. The number killed is not known. Two of his men were killed and three wounded. The skirmish occurred on the seventeenth ultimo. Two or three days previous, Major Layton, with sixty or seventy volunteers, also had a little brush with the Indians in that vicinity--and, according to his official report, there were none of the enemy killed, though he thought his detachment shot several. His loss was one or two killed, and about the same number wounded.
    Left Fort Orford August twenty-first, and arrived at Fort Vancouver, W.T., on the twenty-third. The Columbia River bar not being very rough, Captain William Dall ran his vessel in without waiting for the pilot--the latter thus losing a hundred dollars by not being ready to perform the duty. The sky being clear, we enjoyed, on our trip up the Columbia, a fine view of Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier and Mount Hood, with their snow-capped peaks, the first being 9,750, the second 12,360, and the latter 11,225 feet high.
    The river bank up to the mouth of the Willamette is lined with fir and cedar; above that for a short distance, especially at Vancouver, by cottonwood, which is found wherever the river overflows. Between Vancouver and the Cascades the timber is principally fir.
    I spent the Sabbath at Fort Vancouver. Was disappointed in finding my cousin, Major Pinkney Lugenbeel, of the Ninth Regiment of Infantry, absent on duty--yet had the pleasure of meeting his family. Although we have been in correspondence for a long time, and were at one period stationed within two hundred miles of each other for three years--he at Fort Gibson and I at Fort Arbuckle--still we have not met since he was a cadet at West Point; when, being on leave of absence, he visited my father's home in Maryland. I was then a mere child, but have still a vivid recollection of the gilt buttons on his uniform.
    Vancouver is one of the most delightful posts in the army. It possesses an excellent, healthy climate, and commands one of the grandest landscape views in the United States. It is situated on the north bank of the Columbia River, which is at this point about sixteen hundred yards wide. In a direct line it is seventy miles from the Pacific Ocean--though the distance by the Columbia is ninety miles.
    From this place I obtained the first good view of Mount Hood, the grandest mountain peak in North America. Mount Rainier, in Washington Territory, and Mount Shasta, in California, may be a little higher, but are said not to possess such majestic beauty. The day is not distant when landscape painters the wide world over will delight in transferring to canvas the many charming pictures of natural scenery in the Territories of Washington and Oregon. The one who best succeeds in delineating old Mount Hood will deserve the greatest renown.
    Adjoining Fort Vancouver, between it and the Columbia River, is an old trading post of the famous Hudson Bay Company. It has always been the headquarters of this great monopoly of trade in the Northwest. Here is where its Governor or chief factor had always resided until lately. This company held for many years unbounded sway over all the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains, from California to the Russian possessions in the far north.
    The Hudson Bay Company commenced its operations in Canada as early as 1670, under a charter of Charles II. It had for many years of its early existence a formidable rival in the French Northwest Fur Company. The latter was in fact the pioneer in the trade in what was then known as the Territory of Oregon, embracing, at that period, the whole Pacific Slope lying between the Rocky Mountains on the east, the Pacific Ocean on the west, California on the south, and Russian possessions on the north. There were many bloody conflicts between the two companies until they finally united in 1821.
    The Hudson Bay Company owned at one period on this coast five trading stations and twenty-three forts. It had, besides, trading parties extending into Utah, California, and Arizona, and northward all the way to the Russian American possessions. In order to facilitate commercial intercourse among the numerous bands and tribes of aborigines living in the vast extent of country in which it had an exclusive charter to trade, the Hudson Bay Company found it expedient to supply them with a common language, called the jargon, composed mainly of Chinook, with a mixture of a little French, and words coined expressly for the occasion. This jargon answers the same purpose to the Indians in Oregon that the pantomime does to the prairie tribes east of the Rocky Mountains: Merchants and government officers, who have business relations with the Indians, find a knowledge of it very useful.
    Some army friends of mine who had served in Oregon sufficiently long to learn to speak it with facility, chanced to meet at the St. Nicholas Hotel, in New York, a short while ago, and, in their conversation with each other used the jargon altogether, much to the wonderment of bystanders, who were unable to guess their nationality.
    The Hudson Bay Company, having so long held an absolute commercial control over the Territory of Oregon, began to imagine that it really had a fee simple right to the soil, or, at least, that Great Britain, through its occupancy, possessed this title. Great Britain began as early as 1818 to agitate with the United States the question of ownership; but, as no conclusion as to title could then be arrived at, it was, in a convention between the two governments, agreed that in order to prevent disputes among themselves, the citizens and subjects of the two powers should hold a joint occupancy of the country for ten years, from October 20th, 1818. Whereupon the policy of the Hudson Bay Company was exercised in encouraging British immigration, and discouraging as much as possible, not only American traders, but all settlers from the United States.
    It is stated that as many as eleven different American fur companies tried their luck in the Territory, but, owing to the overshadowing discouragement of the Hudson Bay Company, were unable to succeed.
    Finally, however, Americans, through nuclei formed by missionary settlements, gained a permanent footing in the country, and though the joint occupancy of the subjects of Great Britain and the United States continued until 1846, it was then concluded in convention between the two powers that the forty-ninth degree of north latitude should be the boundary line between the possessions of the two governments on the Pacific Coast.
    Article First of said treaty reads as follows: "From the point on the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, where the boundary laid down in existing treaties and conventions between the United States and Great Britain terminates, the line of boundary between the territories of the United States, and those of her Britannic Majesty, shall be continued westward along the said parallel of north latitude, to the middle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver's Island, and thence southerly through the middle of the said channel and Fuca's Straits, to the Pacific Ocean; provided, however, that the navigation of the whole of the said channel and straits, south of the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, remains free and open to both parties."
    Article Second states that all that part of the Columbia River lying south of the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude should be free to the Hudson Bay Company and British subjects trading with them.
    Article Third stipulates that the possessory rights of the Hudson Bay Company and other British subjects should be respected.
    This treaty was ratified on the fifth of August, 1846. Many persons maintain that all of our Indian difficulties on this coast have had their origin either directly or indirectly in the machinations of the Hudson Bay Company. While it is in all probability not true that the company itself, or any one of its leading officers, has ever incited the savages to war with the Americans, yet its employees were guilty of so doing.
    It is a fact, however, that the Indians looked upon the members of the Hudson Bay Company as simply coming among them for purposes of trade, and not with the view of taking their land and removing them to reservations, as has always been the custom of the Americans, or "Bostons" as they called them; hence they very naturally look upon the former as friends, and the latter as enemies. The kindness of the first missionaries to the Indians smothered for awhile their savage hatred, only to burst out when least expected, in some terrible massacre, as that of Dr. Whitman and his missionary friends by the Cayuse Indians, on the twenty-eighth of November, 1847.
    The history of all such massacres proves how unworthy the Indian is to be called the noble red man. His treachery and ingratitude soon efface from those who know him best all romantic notions of the elevated traits of his character, as imbibed from Cooper's novels. There are exceptions, but as a rule it will not do to rely on the friendship of an Indian towards the white man. When his savage nature is aroused, he falls on friend and foe alike. Such examples are innumerable. One of the latest is the killing of Captain Ben. Wright, the Indian Agent, in the Port Orford district, during the uprising of the Coast Indians last winter. Although it is asserted by some that in 1850 Ben. Wright had harshly treated the Modoc Indians, on the upper Rogue River, yet after he became Indian Agent, his sympathies seem to lean, if either way, in favor of the Indian, and against the white man. He stood like a wall of adamant between the two races in their numerous quarrels on the coast, in the vicinity of Port Orford.
    There are many romantic stories related of this rude, but brave and very remarkable man. He was the Kit Carson of the Pacific Coast. Whilst at Fort Vancouver, I attended church and heard the chaplain, the Rev. Dr. McCartey, preach. He is better known as the "fighting parson," from some sermons preached by him previous to accompanying the American Army in the war with Mexico.
    Leaving Vancouver at three P.M., twenty-fifth of August, in the steamboat Signorita, Captain Wells, I took a trip to the Cascades, which I reached at 7½ in the evening. This portion of the river reminds me very much of the Hudson. The natural scenery is perhaps more picturesque, especially for some twenty miles below the Cascades, as this part of the river is flanked by the bluffs and peaks of the Cascade Range of mountains through which it runs. At several places the river is confined by beautiful, high, perpendicular columns of basalt, the highest being called Cape Horn, because it projects somewhat in the river. An occasional little cascade tumbling into the latter, adds to the beauty of the scenery. One of these is said to be four hundred feet high, some even call it five hundred; but I scarcely think that it is over three hundred. The Cascades proper are nothing more than rapids, formed by the Columbia's rushing precipitately over a steep, rocky bed. They are distant one hundred and forty miles from the ocean, and about fifty from the mouth of the Willamette.
    There is a portage of four and a half miles on the Washington Territory side over a good military road (not quite completed) at that point; there being a steamboat landing and a blockhouse at each extremity; also, one of the latter about midway. At each of the blockhouses are stationed a small detachment of U.S. troops. It being at these three points that the Klickitat Indians made an attack last spring, killing some thirteen persons, and burning all the houses, excepting Mr. Bradford's, at the upper landing. It was at the latter point that they came so near destroying the steamboat Mary. When the attack began, the engineer let go his boat, and, pushing out in the stream, she came within an ace of being carried over the cascades; but fortunately he, although severely wounded, was enabled to get up sufficient steam to prevent ́this catastrophe and start up the river. On reaching the Dalles, and giving the alarm, Colonel Wright's command immediately moved to the rescue, and drove the enemy to the mountains, recapturing a good deal of plunder, and capturing some Indians--nine or ten of whom were subsequently hung. The enemy, on laying the plan of attack, had calculated upon Colonel Wright's command of the Ninth Infantry having taken their departure from the Dalles for the Yakima country. But it seems the Colonel's command had got but a short distance from the place when he heard of the trouble at the Cascades. The temperature of the Cascades is moderately cool in summer and cold in winter, heavy clothing being comfortable the year round.
    August 26th, 1856.--I have crossed the Columbia at the Cascades to the Oregon side in a skiff, and am patiently awaiting the departure of the little steamboat Mary for Portland. There are but two boats plying between this and the latter place at present, connecting through the Portage with the same number above the Cascades. The river at this point is only about four hundred yards broad, running through a mountain gorge, which extends some fifteen or twenty miles. The river bottom here, including its bed, is a mile broad, and bounded on each side by almost perpendicular mountain spurs two or three thousand feet high, covered with fir. The whole aspect of the country is romantic in the extreme, and well worthy of a visit. A short distance above here is a small mountain, on which are collected several hundred Indians, who, as a body, have remained friendly during the present war--only a few of them having joined the Klickitats in their attack on the Cascades in March last.
    I saw at Vancouver Colonel George Wright, the chief in command of the United States troops now in Oregon and Washington Territories, and was informed by him that the hostile Indians of Washington and Eastern Oregon had agreed to make peace, and had thrown themselves under the protection of the troops. Old Kamiakin and other influential chiefs, however, have left their people and declined to come to terms. This may turn out a source of embarrassment. The Colonel is busily engaged in erecting blockhouses and forts in the Indian country east of the Cascades. He has established a new post at Walla Walla and one at Simcoe, which is in the Yakima country. It is in contemplation, also, to have a second in the latter region.
    Leaving the Cascades on the twenty-sixth ultimo, in the steamboat Mary, I arrived at Portland, Oregon Territory, on the same day, and took lodging at the Metropolis, kept by Mr. Keith. This is the finest hotel that I have ever seen in so small a place as Portland, a town of some 1,700 inhabitants. The city is situated on the west bank of the Willamette River, twelve miles from its mouth, and is the first in point of size and commercial importance in Oregon. With the exception of a few brick buildings, the houses are of frame, painted white. The largest, handsomest and most substantial store in the place is owned by a colored man, by the name of Francis. The building itself is brick, and cost $8,000. The employees of the establishment are white men, the "boss" rarely showing himself.
    On the twenty-eighth, I started for Oregon City, a distance of only twelve miles, in the steamboat Portland. This is a very neat town of probably five hundred inhabitants, and is located on the east bank of the Willamette River, just below the falls. The latter, in high water, extend the whole breadth of the river in a very irregular line, and are said to be beautiful. In truth, even at the present low stage of water, they present a very picturesque appearance. The pitch of the water is about twenty feet over perpendicular basaltic rock. Immediately in the rear of the town, and extending its whole length, is a steep bluff, one hundred and twenty feet high, back of which is a fine plateau. The surrounding country is thickly settled. Almost every farm contains a fine young orchard, fruit being far more valuable to the producer than grain. Wheat, for instance, is at present worth only seventy-five cents per bushel, and rapidly falling in price; whereas apples can be sold on the trees at eight dollars per bushel.
    I am informed that General McCarver has disposed of his apples this year on the trees, for $3,000. They retail in the shops at from six to twenty-five cents apiece; pears and peaches a little higher.
    On Sunday I attended divine service at the Methodist Episcopal Church. On Monday I took my departure up the river in the steamboat Hoosier, which got off just about sundown; but being unable to pass Rock Island before dark returned and took a fresh start early the following morning. She went about thirty miles that day, and tied up for the night, the crew and passengers, as usual, sleeping and taking their meals on shore, there being no accommodations on board. Some ten miles from Oregon City, a plug flew out of the boat's boiler, from which all the steam escaped into the furnace, extinguishing the fire instantaneously. Fortunately, this mishap did not detain us long, as we were near a rapid, up which it would have been necessary to have "poled" the flatboat which the Hoosier had in tow, even had the accident not occurred. So, whilst the crew, assisted by the passengers, were getting the former over this place, the Captain succeeded in re-plugging the boiler, and steaming up again.
    On the following day we reached a landing near the mouth of the Yamhill River, about eleven A.M., whence I walked to Dayton, a distance of four and a half miles, where I arrived a little after noon. The Hoosier reached there a little before sundown; being detained, as was anticipated, by a low stage of water in the Yamhill, rendering it necessary to use the poles frequently. She is the most miserable excuse of a steamboat that I have ever seen. The boiler and machinery are worn out, and should have been condemned years ago. It is of so ordinary a occurrence for a plug to fly out, or a flue to collapse, that it is considered of very little importance by the crew and captain, all of whom are green hands in the management of steam power.
    To give a further idea of the frail character of the boat, I shall simply mention that several of the crew, getting drunk, commenced dancing, when the Captain ordered them to stop, or else they might shake down the smoke-pipe.
    Dayton is on the right bank of the Yamhill, some forty miles from Oregon City by water, and twenty-four by land. It contains three or four stores, a post office, tavern, and half a dozen dwellings. I there had the pleasure of seeing my friend, General Palmer, late Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Oregon. I came from Dayton to this place on horseback, a distance of thirty miles.
    The valley of the Yamhill, through which I passed, contains many pretty prairie farms, partially fenced, and having fine young orchards of a few years' growth, and moderate improvements in the way of frame cottages, which present a neat exterior, but are generally left unfinished within until building material and mechanical labor shall have become more within the reach of the owner's means. Here and there may be seen the familiar log cabin of Arkansas and Missouri. The Yamhill constitutes a small but important part of the beautiful Willamette Valley, the garden spot of Oregon. All the cereals and common garden vegetables grow here in the greatest abundance. So do most of the fruits of a temperate climate--such as apples, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, etc. Fruit trees bear much earlier than in the States. The farms do not contain a great deal of timber, but there is an abundance of this in the Coast Range of mountains nearby.
    This post is located on the northern pass of the Coast Reservation, Oregon Territory, about latitude 45° north, longitude 124° west. In a direct line it is three-quarters of a mile west of the South Fork of the Yamhill River, fifteen miles from the Pacific Ocean, forty-nine south of the Columbia River, and forty-five south southwest of Portland. It commands the main outlet through the Coast Range of mountains, from the Indian Coast Reservation, to the valley of the Yamhill. Its immediate position is on a gentle western slope, overlooking on the west a small, somewhat circular valley, called the Grand Ronde, and terminating on the east and southeast by a bluff, the base of which defines a portion of the left border of the Yamhill Valley. With the exception of the latter and the Grand Ronde, the surrounding country is mountainous and thickly timbered, principally with fir, though maple, wild cherry and alder are to be found at a few points. Near the post and down the Yamhill are some very fine groves of white oak. There are no swamps in this vicinity, at least in summer, and the streams are all rapid, clear and pure. Malarious fevers are almost unknown here.
    The post is garrisoned by a company of the First Dragoons and one of the Fourth Infantry. The commissioned officers are Captain Andrew J. Smith (in command), Brevet Captain Oliver H. P. Taylor and James Wheeler, Jr., of the First Regiment of Dragoons, Captain Delancey Floyd-Jones, of the Fourth, and Lieutenant William B. Hazen, of the Eighth Infantry, and Dr. Charles H. Crane, whom I relieve.
 
    I visited the coast yesterday, to see some sick men of a detachment of soldiers at that place, and returned today. The road is a bad one, especially in wet weather, though with a little more labor is capable of becoming tolerably good for summer traveling. It runs through thick timber nearly all the way. Four miles from the ocean is a very high hill, commanding the best view of the Pacific I have ever seen.
    Most of the Indians of the reservation, being those who were lately hostile, are at present encamped immediately on the coast near the mouth of Salmon River; the remainder are in the vicinity of the post. They are all living in tents, furnished them by the Indian Department, who contemplate giving them material for the erection of huts. They are fed by the government. Some of them seem contented, but many, especially the Upper Rogue River Indians, grumble considerably, and talk of leaving before long. I hardly think they will carry out so rash a design. Their discontent, however, suffices to get up little stampedes among the settlers occasionally; we have had two since my arrival here, in both of which it was reported that the Indians contemplated breaking out and cutting everybody's throats.
    October 5th, 1856.--We have had a fortnight of delightful weather. Yesterday, however, and today, it has been showery. In consequence of some Calapooya Indians having left the reservation night before last, for their old homes, Captain Taylor, First Dragoons, with eighteen men, was this morning dispatched to bring them back.
    Yesterday, some eighty or one hundred Klamath Indians were sent back to Klamath Lake, in Southeastern Oregon. They did not belong to this reservation. Exciting news in our Indian affairs have reached us from Walla Walla. We must await a few days for particulars.
    October 6th, 1856.--By the Oregon papers we learn that Governor Stevens, of Washington Territory, in his capacity of Indian Superintendent, was holding a council with the Indian tribes of Washington Territory, between Cascades and Bitterroot mountains. The council being held near Fort Walla Walla was opened on the eleventh, and closed on the eighteenth of September, without being able to effect any treaty with the Indians. The following tribes were represented: John Day's Umatillas, Tyghs, Nez Perces, Des Chutes, Walla Wallas and Cayuses. Old Kamiakin, Owhi, Qualston (Owhi's son), and the chiefs of the Spokanes and other tribes in that section declined attending the council.
    On the nineteenth, Governor Stevens, with his train of twenty-eight ox teams and some two hundred loose animals, escorted by Captain Goff's Company (K), consisting of sixty-eight men, Washington Territory volunteers, belonging to the command of Colonel B. F. Shaw, started for the Dalles. They had proceeded but a short distance when the Indians made an attack upon them. A corral was formed with the wagons and the train put in a state of defense and an express sent to Colonel Steptoe's command of United States troops at Fort Walla Walla, for reinforcements.
    About one A.M. of the twentieth, Lieutenant J. W. Davidson, with seventy men and a howitzer, arrived, when the Indians, who had kept the camp surrounded some fourteen hours, were driven off. Governor Stevens' train then moved back to Fort Walla Walla, and remained there until the twenty-third, when Colonel Steptoe gave him an escort for the Dalles.
    As the Indians had burned all the grass around Fort Walla Walla, the Colonel was compelled to send the most of the government stock with the escort as far as the Umatilla River to graze.
    Thursday, October 30th, 1856.--During the last three weeks it has rained nearly half the time, and yet the old settlers around here insist that the rainy season has not set in. It is, perhaps, a month ahead of time; today, however, has been beautiful and clear. Captain Delancey Floyd-Jones, Lieutenant James Wheeler, Jr., and myself availed ourselves of its charms, by ascending the top of a mountain peak, some four miles from the Fort. Having gone to its base on horseback, we dismounted, and made the ascent on foot. The height is probably a thousand or fifteen hundred feet above the surrounding valleys, and three or four thousand above the ocean. From its summit the view is magnificent, taking in the whole of the Yamhill Valley and the snow-capped peaks of the Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, etc.
    There is no news of interest from the Dalles. Col. Wright, United States Army, with the available "regular force" at his disposal, left there shortly after Governor Stevens came in, for the Walla Walla country; but what his plans are have not yet been made public.
    December 20th, 1856.--From San Francisco we learn that on the third of November the Vigilance Committee, having surrendered the state arms to the authorities, the Governor of California withdrew his proclamation of insurrection, and the Committee are virtually disbanded.
    Last night a fatal affray occurred in garrison, private Connor, of F Company, Fourth Infantry, being killed by a stab with a butcher knife in the hands of private Turner, of Company C, First Dragoons. On the 23rd of last September, a soldier of the latter company (Meehan) was beaten to death by another of the former. Stolzer, who committed the act, was tried on the 28th of last month at Dalles, in Polk County, and sentenced to a term of ten years in the Penitentiary, and to pay a fine of five dollars. Turner is now confined in the guard house at this post, and will also be tried for murder. The fact of two murders in so short a period is almost unprecedented in the United States regular service. The parties in both instances were under the influence of "liquor" at the time--that great exciter of nine-tenths of all the crimes committed.
    January 8th, 1857.--On last Friday, at 9 A.M., it commenced snowing, and continued, with short intervals, until Monday afternoon. It fell to the depth of twenty-two inches at this place; two and a half feet eleven miles from here on the road to the Dalles; and twenty inches at the latter place; at Salem, fourteen inches; Portland, twenty-seven inches; Cascades, on last Thursday, three to six feet. It is not known how deep it is at the Dalles of the Columbia. According to the last information from that point, some nine days ago, a government train of one hundred and twenty-five mules and horses was caught in a snow storm between the Dalles and the new post on the Simcoe, in the Yakima country, and every one perished. Such snows being unusual in this Territory, most of the farmers are without sufficient provender for their animals, many of which will perish if the snow lay long. It has melted but very little since it first fell. Night before last the thermometer was down to 15°; last night 9° of Fahrenheit.
    Being compelled to go on Saturday to Dalles, thence to Salem, to get a power of attorney to send to San Francisco by the steamer due on the 10th instant, I had full benefit of the snow storm. On my return yesterday I found the traveling exceedingly difficult and unpleasant. The mud in the roads was, at places, very deep, and had not frozen previously to the snow, so that my horse had to wade through the depth of the two combined, or cut his limbs by following the frozen footsteps of some previous equestrian. Then again, the sloughs, sluices, and branches were covered with ice. At Salem I attended a dancing party, given at the Union Hotel, and had the pleasure of seeing all the elite of the town, and the "big guns" of the Oregon Legislature, which is now in session at that place. I may remark that the present is as deep a snow as has fallen in Oregon within the recollection of the oldest inhabitant--the ones of 1849 and 1853 not excepted.
    January 20th, 1857.--The snow which fell between the 2nd and 5th instant lay on the ground about a fortnight without melting a great deal. Day before yesterday, however, a warm breeze sprang up from the south, accompanied with rain, which continued until this morning, when the sun shone forth for a few hours. The snow has entirely disappeared, except on the mountains, and the streams are greatly swollen. A large number of horses belonging to the Indians on this, the Coast Reservation, have perished during the present hard winter for want of food and shelter. And General Palmer, the former Superintendent of Indians for Oregon, it is said, has lost thirty yoke of cattle from the same cause. He had them on the reservation near the Siletz, breaking a piece of ground for the Indians, when the snow storm came on.
    March 20th, 1857.--The Indians on the Coast Reservation are becoming dissatisfied. Those at the Siletz, embracing about one-half of the whole number on the reservation, have lately held a council and determined to go back to their old country. They are to be joined by some of the Upper Rogue River Indians at this place. The latter during the last war were by far the most troublesome and formidable. The former consist of the tribes that lived on Lower Rogue River and the Coast, in the Port Orford District, or Curry County.
    Captain Augur, the commanding officer of Fort Hoskins, near the Siletz, sent an express to Captain Taylor, of this post, for an additional company to proceed to the Siletz, and prevent, if possible, any movement on the part of the Indians. Accordingly, Company H, Fourth Infantry, under the command of Lieutenant Wheeler, First Dragoons, will start for that point today. If the Indians contemplate making any move, they will postpone it during the inclement weather. I have no idea, however, that there is any more cause for the present excitement than we have had all winter, except that the period when the Indians would be the most likely to make a move, if at all, is approaching. The settlers around here are greatly alarmed. All the whites at the agency, excepting three or four, have been frightened away. This state of things is to be deplored, for it will, undoubtedly, have a bad effect on the Indians, who may thus be reminded of doing what otherwise would not have been thought of.
    April 1st, 1857.--A great day in the States for making fools of one's friends. It does not seem to be much celebrated in that mode out here. The steamer Columbia arrived at Portland on the 24th with New York papers of the 20th ultimo. Not much news of general importance. The most interesting item to the army is the passage by Congress of a bill increasing the pay of officers. It gives each officer twenty dollars a month additional pay, and increases commutation value of the ration to thirty cents. Taking all grades, this is an average increase of about five hundred and fifty dollars a year to each officer.
    Sunday, April 12th, 1857.--The last nine days have been delightfully mild, clear, and pleasant, with a prospect of the same continuing. The farmers are all busily engaged in plowing for their spring crops. They have heretofore usually been able to break their ground in February and March, and to put in most of their spring crop during the latter month; but the continuous wet weather prevented their so doing this season. Many express fears that from the too rapid drying of the ground it will become very hard and difficult to plow. The soil seems to be somewhat peculiar in this respect. It is probably owing to the large proportion of argillaceous matter in its composition. There is no time in the year when the grass is not green. At present it of course presents a more thrifty and growing aspect than during the cold rains and snows of winter. The valleys are now covered with beautiful flowers, golden yellow predominating, though all colors are well represented. The strawberry has been in bloom for more than a month. Great abundance of this delicious fruit is anticipated.
    The Indians on the reservation near here have had another little difficulty among themselves. In consequence of so many deaths among the Upper Rogue Rivers, they recently held a council to determine who it was that had been causing them to die. What conclusion this august body came to is not known, but rumor has it that they have resolved on causing to be killed various doctors, who have been bewitching them. As a commencement, they, this morning, shot an Umpqua doctor, who, just before dying, wounded his murderer, Sambo, in the leg. There is, of course, considerable excitement among them at present, and whether the matter will end without further bloodshed remains to be seen.
    April 20th, 1857.--Company F, Fourth Infantry, returned yesterday from the Siletz. The Indians at that point of the reservation continue to be troublesome, though no outbreak has occurred, and with proper management on the part of the Indian Agent, the excitement will gradually calm down.
    The Yaquina Bay, about twenty miles from the Siletz, and at the middle of the coast line of the reservation, is found to be a good and safe entrance for small vessels. The Indian Department have already landed a schooner load of provisions there for the Indians.
    Lieutenant H. H. Garber, Fourth Infantry, reached here a few days ago, and will remain until F Company takes its departure. Mr. G. Clinton Gardner, lately an agent in the Quartermaster's Department at this post, and son of the former Surveyor General of Oregon, having received the appointment of Assistant Surveyor and Astronomer to the Northwest Boundary Survey, left us on the eighteenth instant. He is a very intelligent and worthy young gentleman. Lieutenant William B. Hazen, Fourth Infantry, being ordered to join his regiment in Texas, bade us farewell this morning.
    April 23rd, 1857.--Weather continues beautiful; heavy frost (second of the season) last night; it has done much injury to the fruit. The roads are getting fine for traveling, and there is nothing I should like more than to take a daily gallop round the country, but, unfortunately, my horse is lame. On the twenty-eighth ultimo, while returning from a visit to a patient in the neighborhood, and attempting to ride over a lot of loose brush that had been thrown in a very deep mud hole, my horse sprained himself in the left hip joint; the brush was just being put down. Had I waited half an hour, until the man who was mending the road had thrown in a sufficient quantity, the accident would not have occurred. As the horse did not go decidedly lame, I paid no attention to the matter, and foolishly attempted two days thereafter to follow a cow trail around a very steep hill, in order to avoid the muddy road below. As ill luck would have it, on reaching the very steepest point of the trail my horse slipped on his right hind leg, and suddenly (from pain in the left hip, perhaps) let himself down behind, and rolled over, and continued rolling to the bottom of the hill, a distance of forty yards, and exceedingly steep. From the suddenness of the fall, I came within an ace of being crushed to death under the saddle, but managed to extricate myself from the latter before it was too late. The horse was, of course, very much stunned; I at first thought him killed. Strange as it may appear, he escaped without a broken bone; he was badly bruised, however, and the sprain in the hip rendered worse. Being a splendid animal--worth some three hundred dollars--I regret exceedingly the accident.
    May 2nd, 1857.--On going to see a patient this morning, whose hand I amputated five days ago, my horse fell with me again. The fall was so great and sudden that he threw me on the ground with considerable force, but I escaped without a bruise. I was in hopes that he had recovered from the sprain received a month ago, but it seems not. After his fall I rode him some thirty miles, during such time he gave way on the left hind leg several times, but without letting himself completely down. He shows no signs of lameness, except when tramping on a rolling stone or uneven ground. I observed today that he does not "track" (step his hind foot straight after the fore one) with his left hind foot, but turns it a little outwards. This is a sure sign of sprain in the hip joint.
    June 14th, 1857.--The troops operating against the Florida Indians have been unable to effect much during the present winter. From the following extract of a general order of General Scott, we learn about all that has been accomplished:
    "Lieutenant Edmund Freeman, Fifth Infantry, reconnoitering with a small party in the Big Cypress Swamp, near Bowleg's Town, Florida, was attacked by the Seminoles March 5th, himself and three of his men severely wounded and one man killed. Captain Carter L. Stevenson, Fifth Infantry, with his command, called, by express, from Fort Keais, twenty miles distant, came rapidly to the relief of Lieutenant Freeman's party, attacked the enemy, and, after a gallant skirmish put them to flight, with an evident loss to the Indians, the extent of which could not be ascertained, owing to the density of the hammock."
    Since then nothing has been done in that quarter, and General Harney has been ordered to turn over his command to the next in rank, and proceed to take command of a large force of cavalry and infantry about to start on the plains--destination unknown. It is surmised that they may ultimately go to Salt Lake, as the Administration is endeavoring to prevail on someone to accept the appointment of Governor of that Territory, so as to supplant Brigham Young, who threatens resistance to the United States authority if removed. It seems that the Mormons, for several years past, have practically treated the laws of the United States as a nullity--obeying no law but that of the church. Recently they have made the lives of our judicial officers there so insecure that several of them have resigned, Judge Drummond among others. I see, in a letter from the latter gentleman, published in the papers, in answer to some inquiries of Mrs. Gunnison, that the Mormons, in his opinion, instigated and assisted in the murder of her husband, Lieutenant Gunnison, of the United States Topographical Engineers, who was killed in or near Utah several years ago, the murder being supposed at the time to have been committed by the Indians.
    The Mormons have, for several years, been applying to Congress for admission into the Union; but, as several very grave questions arise as to the propriety of admitting them with their present so-called religion, the subject has heretofore been evaded by Congress. According to the Constitution, we have no right to apply any religious test in the admission of a Territory; and, as polygamy is a part of their religion, it becomes a serious question how to dispose of the matter; for the civilized world, and the people of the United States especially look upon this feature of Mormonism as decidedly immoral and degenerating. The question very naturally arises whether such a system as the Mormons profess can be viewed as a religion in the meaning of the Constitution. Our best interpreters of the law differ upon the subject. Hence the dilemma of Congress; and whilst the latter continues to stave off the question, the Executive is left in an embarrassing position in its dealings with this strange people. An open conflict with the United States authorities, it is feared, will result ere long.
    June 15th, 1857.--On the requisition of Captain Augur, commanding Fort Hoskins, Company F, Fourth Infantry, was dispatched to the Siletz yesterday morning. It is reported that some of the Indians at that point are getting troublesome, and supposed to be on the eve of leaving the Reservation.
    July 4th, 1857.--Lieutenant Philip H. Sheridan, of the Fourth Infantry, with a detachment of thirty-two men from H Company, Fourth Infantry, and D Company, Third Artillery, arrived here June 25th, and relieved Company C, First Dragoons, which, with its officers, Brevet-Captain O. H. P. Taylor and Lieutenant James Wheeler, left for Fort Walla Walla on the 29th ultimo. Lieutenant Sheridan and myself are now the only commissioned officers at this post. In honor of the day we fired a salute of thirty-one guns at 12 M., also a shell. The sergeant in charge was on the eve of putting the latter in the howitzer with the fuse reversed. The mistake was seen and corrected by Lieutenant Sheridan, otherwise an explosion of the howitzer might have been the result.
    August 6th, 1857.--For the past three months I have been kept very much engaged in making professional visits through the neighborhood. The country north and east of the post is pretty thickly settled, and I have all the difficult cases to attend within thirty miles of this place. They never send for physicians in ordinary cases.
    On the 23rd ultimo I concluded to give myself a few days respite and, accordingly, started for Fort Vancouver to participate in the wedding festivities gotten up to celebrate the marriage of Lieutenant William T. Welcker, of the Ordnance Department, to Miss Katy Adair, daughter of General Adair of Astoria. There were three parties given; one by the officers' mess in garrison; another on board the United States Steamship Active, lying off Vancouver in the Columbia River; and the last and most brilliant of all, by Captain Rufus Ingalls, Assistant Quartermaster United States Army. The following are some of the most prominent persons present at the latter. Captain Prevost, and Secretary of the British Navy; Lieutenants Cuyler, Bassett, and Johnson, Dr. Brown, Major Davis, Chief Engineer, Mr. Jordan and Mr. Warren, Assistant Engineers, and Mr. West, Watch Officer, all officers of the Active, a United States naval steamship, Captain Shaddock and Lieutenant Mason, of the United States Revenue Service, and Mr. Archibald Campbell, the Commissioner on the part of the United States to run the Northwest Boundary, and the following army officers: Colonel Morris, Captain Smith, Captain Waller, Captain Augur, Major Alvord, Captain Ingalls; Drs. Potts, Herndon, and DeLengle; Lieutenants Hodges, Myers, Macfeely, Mendell, Mallory, Wickliffe, Wickler, and Hughes; and the following civilians: Messrs. Grover, Green, Stark, Kibben, Rankin, Daniels, Noble, Brooke, etc. The ladies were mostly wives of army officers, though seven or eight unmarried ones were present, among others Miss Corbett, Miss Ellen Adair, and Miss Abernethy. The supper was bountiful and gotten up in splendid style. Everything passed off delightfully. It was given on the evening of the 30th ultimo.
    On the following day I took passage on the Active for Portland, and started the same afternoon for this post, where I arrived the next day. Mechanics are at present engaged in finishing our quarters.
    The Indians on this portion of the reservation give us very little trouble, except when drunk. Notwithstanding the severity of the law, there are several vagabond white men in this vicinity who sell them liquor. They usually escape punishment on account of the difficulty of getting anyone to testify against them. However, the law has one fellow in limbo, and it is to be hoped will make an example of him.
    September 9th, 1857.--Weather continues delightfully pleasant, with cool, refreshing nights--splendid for sleeping. Fruit is much more abundant this year than last. Apples are now selling at from one dollar to six dollars per bushel; last year they brought from four to ten dollars. They have been ripe about a month. The farmers of Washington and Oregon Territories, in consequence of the drought, have raised very light crops of grain and garden vegetables this year. The grain sowed last fall did well; but, as the preceding winter had been so severe as to kill much of the wheat (there being no snow to protect it), the majority of the farmers postponed sowing until spring, hoping that they would then have sufficient good weather for the purpose. The rainy season continued unusually long, however, and ceased so abruptly that the ground baked almost as hard as rock, rendering plowing impossible. Most of the grain produced this year is what is known in this country as "volunteer"--that is, such as springs up from the wastage of the preceding crop, without any cultivation whatever. Many of the farmers depend on their volunteer crops for two years in succession. But, notwithstanding the small quantity of grain produced this season, it is very low in price. This is owing to the dullness of the San Francisco market. The want of an available foreign market is one of the great drawbacks to Oregon farmers. High price of labor is the next most important. It is this last feature that renders many more advocates for slavery in this Territory than would otherwise be. Two or three years ago, one would have scarcely thought the question would ever be agitated; but now that the Territorial Convention is in session for the purpose of framing a State Constitution, the advocates for slavery are found to be quite numerous. They are, however, doubtless in the minority.
    The news from the Atlantic States is not very interesting. Among the most noticeable is that a large number of United States troops left Fort Leavenworth about the last of July, en route for Utah. Several battalions had started a few weeks previous for the same destination, making in all about one thousand three hundred men. A body of dragoons, intended for the expedition, is detained, for a short time, in Kansas, owing to a renewal of the excitement there between the slavery and anti-slavery party. The expedition is to be under the command of Brevet Brigadier General W. S. Harney, so soon as he can be relieved from his Kansas duties, and joins it; and, on their arrival, they will be considered in a new department, called the Department of Utah.
    The object of sending so many troops into Utah is to enforce the United States laws, the Mormons having heretofore proved very refractory. Their great head, Young, is to be supplanted as Governor by Colonel Cummings, who, with many other civil officers recently appointed for Utah Territory, is accompanying the expedition. Brigham Young has heretofore refused to be superseded, and has threatened resistance to the entrance of any more United States troops into his Territory. It now remains to be seen what he will do under the circumstances. Should he urge the Mormons into a general resistance, it will require a great many troops to put them down. They are now quite numerous, and have several thousand well-disciplined soldiery who, prompted by religious fanaticism and imaginary persecution, will fight desperately. They will hardly be so insane, however, as to come to an open rupture with the United States.
    October 1st, 1857.--The following is a synopsis of the weather during the past year at Oregon Territory:

    October 30th, 1857.--After a tiresome professional ride through rain and mud, I am now enjoying my otium cum dignitate in a comfortable room before a cheerful fire, and can with feelings of perfect security listen to the howling blast and pelting rain announcing the commencement of the rainy season. When the breeze is fresh here it usually blows a gale at sea. The Pacific is a rough and dangerous coast at this season of the year, at least that portion lying between San Francisco and Vancouver's Island. But owing to there being so few vessels on these waters it is not often we hear of any great catastrophes occurring in this part of the great watery domain. Oh, how different on the Atlantic! Almost every States' mail brings some hearr-rending account of disasters at sea. By the last mail comes the melancholy intelligence of the total loss of the steamship Central America (late George Law), with over four hundred passengers, the California mail of the 20th of August, and about sixteen hundred thousand dollars in specie. She foundered at sea in a tremendous hurricane, on the 12th of September, off Cape Hatteras. Not precisely known how many passengers were saved--one hundred were transferred to the brig Mariner of Boston, including all the women (twenty-six) and children, and fifty others were picked up by the Norwegian bark Helen, after the vessel had sunk. Two of these, Messrs. R. T. Brown and John D. Derment (the latter from Oregon), had been in the water twelve hours, floating on a piece of the hurricane deck, with cork life preservers to their persons. The Captain (Lieutenant Herndon, United States Navy) was among the lost.
    There seems to be a great financial crisis taking place in the States. The ball was set in motion some two months ago by the failure of the New York branch of the Ohio Trust Company's Banking Association, and has been rolling with accelerated motion ever since. Railroad stock was the first to suffer--its depression at present being incredible. Next the banks and merchants in regular succession. The money panic is of greater severity than has occurred for many years, and alarming mercantile disasters are constantly occurring throughout the Union, but mainly in New York City.
    There has lately been a little excitement among the Indians on the Coast Reservation, growing out of the killing of two Siletz Indians by Cultus Jim, of Old John's band. There being much sickness among the latter tribe, they superstitiously believed that these two men, who were medicine men or doctors, were causing it by their witchcraft. Cultus Jim accordingly waylaid and killed them--or, at least, killed one and wounded the other. A row being the consequence, the Indian Agent, Bob Metcalfe, requested all the Indians who had firearms to surrender them. Old John's band at first refused to comply, but subsequently promised to obey. A reinforcement of thirty troops having in the meantime arrived from Fort Hoskins, making, with those previously at the Siletz, fifty men, under the command of Lieutenant H. H. Garber. About the time that half the arms were given up by Old John, the murderer, Cultus Jim (the Chief's son), was found by the Agent who, in company with Lieutenant Garber and a sergeant, attempted his arrest. Jim, resisting and firing a pistol at Metcalfe, was instantly shot by the latter and Lieutenant Garber. John subsequently threatened an attack on the troops, but things in that section seem quiet at present.
    November 30th, 1857.--Our mail from the States arrived last night. The financial crisis is increasing. Nearly every bank in the Union has suspended specie payment, corporations, merchants, etc., breaking by hundreds.
    The October election in Kansas for member of the State Legislature passed off quietly. Results not yet known. United States troops were placed at all the points where riots had been apprehended between the contending parties.
    The Utah Expedition continues to engross public attention. It is not yet known whether Brigham Young will offer open resistance to it or not. The leading California papers have come to the conclusion that a conflict is inevitable, as the latest accounts from Salt Lake represent the Mormons as very much excited, and preparing to resist the entrance of troops into the Territory. The advanced body of troops, seventeen hundred strong, under Colonel Albert S. Johnston, was within two days' march of Utah. Captain S. Van Vleit, Assistant Quartermaster United States Army, had been sent to Salt Lake City in advance, to ascertain from the Mormons the practicability of obtaining supplies for the troops. And it is rumored that although treated kindly, Brigham Young declined giving him any answer, but, on the contrary, delivered several belligerent sermons in his presence. I cannot believe them so fanatical as to bring on a rupture with the general government. But nous verrons. There is little doubt, however, but they have been for some time instigating the neighboring Indians to acts of depredation and murder on California immigrants.
    December 15th, 1857.--Today the mortal remains of Corporal Boland, G Company, Fourth Infantry, were brought to garrison. He was drowned on the 15th instant, while attempting to swim across Mill Creek. He was carrying the mail at the time from Portland, via this post, to Fort Hoskins. The mule, after floating down the stream a considerable distance, found its way out, and the "mail" was recovered.
    December 26th, 1857.--A general court-martial convened at this post on the 24th, and adjourned on the 25th instant. The members present were: Captain D. A. Russell, Fourth Infantry, Lieutenant Henry C. Hodges, Fourth Infantry, Lieutenant Philip H. Sheridan, Fourth Infantry, Lieutenant Nathaniel Wickliffe, Ninth Infantry, Lieutenant Wm. T. Gentry, Fourth Infantry, and Wm. B. Hughes, Ninth Infantry. Captain David R. Jones, Assistant Adjutant General, was Judge Advocate.
    Lieutenants Hodges and Gentry left for Fort Hoskins yesterday morning, and the other gentlemen, except Sheridan, started for the same post this morning, where another court-martial is to be held--they having tarried a day to take a Christmas dinner with us. Our Christmas, by the by, went off quietly. We had the usual sine qua non for dinner--a fat turkey--which is a great rarity in this Territory. From the general mildness of the climate, one would suppose wild birds of this species to be abundant on this coast, but it is credibly asserted that there is not one on this side of the Rocky Mountains. Perhaps the varmints have exterminated them by destroying their eggs. The polecat, or skunk, is the most mischievous in this line; this country is overrun with them. Since the underpinning of our quarters, they have discovered that the latter affords a most pleasant and safe retreat from the rain and snow, and have, accordingly, made some very snug little subterranean passages beneath the foundation walls. They seem to take it for granted that we admire the fashionable perfume, musk, and have charitably determined to give us a benefit. I have returned the compliment by preparing for them, every night, a nice little piece of meat in a box trap, and when one is enticed into this snug little place, he is kindly conveyed some two hundred yards from the quarters, and a dose of lead gently administered from a double-barreled shotgun, thus demonstrating to them the falsity of the philosophical dogma that matter is impenetrable. I have composed, in this manner, some sixteen of them, and believe that we shall, in the future, have a little rest.
    It seems from the official reports of Colonel Albert S. Johnson and Colonel Alexander that the Mormons captured and burnt three supply trains belonging to the Utah expedition, consisting in all of seventy-five wagons.
    "On the morning of the 5th of October the Mormons burned two trains of government stores on Green River and on the Big Sandy, and a few wagons belonging to Mr. Perry, Sutler of the Tenth Infantry, which were a few miles behind the latter train."--Extract from Colonel E. B. Alexander's Report to the Adjutant General, dated Camp Winfield, Utah Territory, October 9th, 1857.
    This occurred on Green River, some ninety miles to the rear of the vanguard of the army under Colonel Alexander. There was no escort with these trains at the time. No one was killed--the teamsters being permitted to retain four wagons and sufficient provisions to last them to Fort Laramie, where they were ordered by the Mormons to return. At the time of this occurrence, Colonel E. B. Alexander, of the Tenth Infantry, with the advance, was at Hanes' Fork, off Green River, awaiting the arrival of the commander of the expedition, Colonel Albert S. Johnston, of the Second Cavalry. From his official letter to the Adjutant General, dated Camp Winfield, Utah Territory, October 9th, 1857, it appears that Brigham Young had directed him to return forthwith from the Territory, and had sent him his proclamation forbidding the entrance of armed forces into the same and had, at the same time, informed him, that if the United States troops would surrender their arms and ammunition they might remain where they were for the winter, but should return to the States in the spring. The Colonel acknowledged the receipt of the Governor's letter, and informed him that the United States forces were there by instructions from the President of the United States, and that he was awaiting the arrival of the commander of the expedition, whose orders would be obeyed. He reports that he will be able to resist any attack from the Mormons, and might, perhaps, be strong enough to act on the offensive when the troops should have all come up, and that his provisions would last about six months. Colonel Johnson was met by the expressman, who brought Colonel A.'s letter two hundred miles west of Fort Laramie on his way to overtake the latter.
    One of the most ridiculous reports that has tended to excite the Mormons to their present state of rebellion was that all the soldiers to be sent among them were to draw double rations in order to enable them to support a wife, who was to be seduced from the Mormons. This rumor was founded upon the fact that Harney was ordered to establish in Utah two or three double-ration posts--that is, posts where the commanding officer would be entitled to double rations. These extra rations are allowed commanding officers upon the presumption that they do most of the entertaining. A great mistake, by the by, for this is generally done by the bachelor mess.
    January 14th, 1858.--Our little coterie consists at present of Captain D. A. Russell, Lieutenant P. H. Sheridan, Fourth Infantry; Messrs. Ingalls and Foster, the Sutlers; Mr. W. Holley, Acting Assistant Quartermaster's Clerk, and myself. We get along smoothly and pleasantly together. Our new quarters are plainly but handsomely finished, and we have taken pains to furnish them accordingly. Could our Eastern friends drop in upon us for awhile, they might be surprised at the air of comfort surrounding us. If we could always have pleasant houses like these for winter quarters, we would cheerfully campaign during the entire summer. But, oh, how checkered is army life! At this very time our military friends of the Mormon expedition are perhaps barely sheltered under canvas tents on the snow-covered plains of Utah, surrounded by enemies many times their number, who are urged on to deeds of treason, violence and blood against their race and countrymen, by the most sensual and revolting species of superstitious fanaticism that has blinded humanity since the wars of Mahomet. We are daily expecting orders to proceed thither--i.e., the majority of us. Were we all to leave, another Oregon war would soon be engendered between the restless whites and dissatisfied Indians. It is not possible or necessary to send a military force from here this winter. It would perish in the mountain snows. But it can be concentrated and fully equipped to make an early start in the spring. Similar expeditions will probably be dispatched from California and the western frontier about the same time.
    January 29th, 1858.--The news from the Utah Expedition, via the Atlantic States, is up to November 1st, and not very definite. It seems that four or five Mormons had been captured and one or two killed. They, with others, had been following in the rear of the army, stealing cattle. By the way of California, however, we have news from Salt Lake up to December 13th, 1857. The whole force under Colonel Johnston had arrived in the Territory of Utah and were posted at Fort Bridger, and other points in its vicinity. The Mormons, on abandoning, set fire to the fort; also burnt up all the grass in the neighborhood. They had stolen some twelve hundred cattle from the troops. The latter had retaliated by capturing a larger number from the Mormons. Governor Cummings issued his proclamation from Fort Bridger. It is rumored that Brigham Young had remarked in the Tabernacle that he was willing to admit Cummings, but not the troops.
    April 29th, 1858.--On last Monday week, I took a trip to Portland, and also made a flying visit to Vancouver. The latter is as beautiful as ever. Of course, I mean the fort. The town is a miserable dirty village, full of liquor shops and discharged soldiers. Portland presents a very neat, flourishing appearance, and bids fair to become a large commercial city. At the latter place I succeeded in purchasing a splendid saddle and buggy horse, known all over the Territory. He is, beyond doubt, the finest saddle animal in Oregon. I got him for three hundred dollars; his value until lately has been five hundred dollars.
    On Friday, Captain Russell and myself started for home, where we arrived the following day at 4 P.M.--distance, sixty miles. We could have come through in a day had we been in a hurry.
    There has been considerable excitement among the Indians on this reservation within the last fortnight. Old Sam's band of Rogue Rivers threatened to leave the reservation, and return to their old homes in Southern Oregon. The Rogue Rivers at the Siletz, and the Coast Indians, from the neighborhood of Port Orford, also declared their determination to go back. The celebrated chief, John, seemed to be the prime mover in the ferment at the Siletz. Himself and son were arrested about eight days ago, shackled, and taken to Fort Vancouver. The immediate cause of his arrest is said to be a threat to take Agent Metcalfe's life. The Agent's brother, who is living with him, was wounded not long since by an Indian.
    The Indians east of the Cascades are also becoming troublesome again. Nine head of cattle, belonging to a Mr. Davis, living in the vicinity of Fort Walla Walla, and thirteen head of the United States Commissioner's, at the latter place, were run off by the Palouse Indians on the 13th of April. A detachment of troops were sent in pursuit, but the Indians refused to give up the cattle. A row may be the consequence. It is also reported that two white men, on their way to the Colville mines, were killed by the Indians, not very far from Fort Walla Walla, a few weeks since.
    The Willamette Valley now presents a beautiful appearance. Large crops of oats and wheat have been put in this season by the farmers, but, as is usual in this country, the harvest will probably be an expensive one, in consequence of so many persons leaving the Territory for the newly discovered mines on Fraser and Thompson's Rivers in the British possessions. A mining excitement springs up every summer and causes nearly all the laborers and mechanics to quit their ordinary duties, which pay them surely and well, for an uncertain livelihood in the mines.
    May 27th, 1858.--We have received two Eastern mails since my last remarks--one on the 12th, the other on the 25th instant.
    Congress is still harping on the subject of "bleeding Kansas," to the detriment of a vast deal of important unfinished business. It has only passed a few bills; one is for the raising of three regiments of volunteers--two for the suppression of the Mormon rebellion, the other to guard the frontier of Texas.
    No late reliable news from Utah. In alluding to the Mormon difficulties, I should have added that the United States Utah forces are being reinforced by troops sent via Fort Leavenworth. Some started in the latter part of March--others were to go in April and the present month. General Persifor F. Smith, General William S. Harney, and Colonel E. V. Sumner have been ordered to join the Utah Army.
    The Civil Commissioners have been sent thither to hold counsel with Brigham Young, and prevent, if possible, bloodshed. They are Ex-Governor Powell, of Kentucky, and Major Ben. McCullough, of Texas.
    Under date of April 29th, I mentioned the rumor of two men having been massacred near Fort Colville, in Washington Territory, and of some animals having been stolen from Fort Walla Walla by the Indians. It has since been contradicted that any men were killed, but there is no doubt as to the stealing of the cattle. The commanding officer of Fort Walla Walla, Colonel Steptoe, shortly after the stealing of the cattle by the Indians, started out into the Indian country with three companies of Dragoons, and a detachment of twenty-five Infantry. Our expressman brings a letter from an officer at Fort Vancouver stating that information has just been received, via express, from Fort Walla Walla, that Colonel Steptoe had had a fight with the Indians, and been defeated--losing one-half of his command, all his provisions, most of his guns, and all the horses but fifty. The news was brought to Fort Walla Walla by Indians, and was believed there, although not confirmed by any information from Colonel Steptoe or his officers. If there be any truth in the matter, it will be confirmed in a few days.

    June 4th, 1858.--The rumor alluded to above in relation to a fight between the United States troops and Indians is partly correct. The facts are these: On the 6th ultimo, Colonel E. J. Steptoe, Ninth Infantry, started from Fort Walla Walla, in Washington Territory, for an old Hudson Bay trading post, Fort Colville, with portions of C, E, and H Companies, First Dragoons, and a detachment of twenty-five men of the Ninth Infantry, and the following officers: Captain C. S. Winder and H. B. Fleming, Ninth Infantry, Captain O. H. P. Taylor, and Lieutenants D. McM. Gregg, James Wheeler and William Gaston, First Dragoons--in all, one hundred and fifty, besides the packers. The object of the expedition is not precisely known, but seems to have been more to give the troops some experience in campaigning than anything else. It is certain, however, that they had no idea that there would be any resistance offered them.
    On leaving camp, on the morning of the 16th, they were told that the Spokanes had assembled and were ready to fight. Not believing this report, the march was continued until about eleven o'clock, when they found themselves in the presence of six hundred warriors in war costume. The command halted to have a talk. The Spokanes said they heard the troops had come out to wipe them out, and that they were ready to fight, and the troops should not cross the Spokane River. The Indians were well mounted, principally armed with rifles, and flanked the troops at a distance of one hundred yards. After some talk, Colonel Steptoe told his officers they would have to fight, but to let the Spokanes fire the first gun. The troops marched a mile, had another talk; no result except the most insulting demonstrations from the Indians. The troops were kept in the saddle three hours ready for an attack. The Indians dispersed at sunset.
    On the morning of the 17th, the command started for the Palouse, marching in the following order: H Company in advance, C in the center, with the packs, and E in the rear. About 8 A.M., Indians appeared in great numbers to the rear of the column, and just as the advance crossed a small stream, commenced firing. In twenty minutes the firing became continuous. Towards evening the troops' ammunition began to give out. Abandoning everything, they mounted their horses and left the hill at 9 P.M., and after a ride of ninety miles, mostly in a gallop, and without a rest, reached Red Wolf's crossing on Sucker River the next evening and were met by their friends, the Nez Perces. They had two officers, five men, and three friendly Indians killed, and ten men wounded--Sergeant Ball, of H Company, missing. The officers killed were Brevet-Captain O. H. P. Taylor, and Lieutenant Gaston, First Dragoons. The former was shot through the neck; the latter through the body. Thirty horses killed in action; none captured by the Indians. The two howitzers were abandoned with other things. Number of Indians killed not known; Lieutenant Gregg could count fifteen, and says the Indians acknowledged to have had forty wounded.
Captain Taylor was formerly stationed at this post, Fort Yamhill, whence he was ordered to Walla Walla about a year since. Shortly thereafter he went to the States, and returned this last spring with his wife and two children. They had not got comfortably fixed at Fort Walla Walla ere he was ordered out on the above expedition. He was an accomplished gentleman and a gallant officer. An intimate and dear friend of mine. How sad his fate, and the bereavement of his widowed wife and orphaned children.
    June 13th, 1858.--Sergeant Ball, alluded to above as missing, found his way into Fort Walla Walla some five or six days after the command returned. He was several days without food. It is now reliably reported that during the retreat of the troops, two men were left behind on account of their horses failing--Sergeant Williams (wounded) and a private soldier. They fell into the hands of the Indians, who told them to swim Snake River for their lives. They accordingly jumped in and made for the opposite shore, here some five hundred yards distant, the Indians in the meantime shooting at them. The private soldier reached the opposite shore and Fort Walla Walla in safety; the Sergeant was supposed to have been shot in the water.
    June 29, 1858.--The steamship Pacific arrived at Portland on the 19th instant, bringing three companies of artillery. The mail steamer reached there a few days afterwards with one more company, and the Commander of this Department, Brevet Brigadier General Newman S. Clarke, together with his staff. Companies I and K, Third Artillery, and D, Fourth Infantry, are ordered to come up on the next steamer. E Company, Fourth Infantry, is ordered up from Fort Jones by land. The four companies of artillery already arrived are A, B, D, and M. The General's Aide de Camp, Lieutenant Henry H. Walker, Sixth Infantry, arrived here last Friday, and left for Fort Hoskins on Sunday--thence will return to Fort Vancouver. The object of his visit seems to be to ascertain whether any troops can be spared from either of these two posts, to join the expedition now being organized to proceed against the hostile Indians in the North. There is only one company at each of the three posts which guard the reservation--viz: at Fort Yamhill, Hoskins, and Umpqua.
    Mr. W. informs us that Old John, the celebrated Rogue River chief, and son got into a row on their passage to California, in the steamer before the last. It seems that the Sergeant in charge had occasion to take them to the lower deck, when they grappled him and succeeded in securing his pistol, with which they commenced firing, both at the Sergeant and the persons who attempted to come to his rescue, whereupon one of the officers shot Old John through the nose and his son in the leg, which had to be amputated on his reaching San Francisco. It is thought that Old John and son supposed they were being taken to the lower deck to be hung--hence their conduct. It is a very unfortunate affair, and will greatly impair the confidence of the Indians in the Whites.
    The Fraser River mines excitement increases. Thousands of persons are going thither from California, and hundreds from Oregon.
    July 17th, 1858.--The farmers in this vicinity commenced harvesting about eight days ago, and have already cut the most of the grain sown last fall. That put in this spring is not yet mature. The crops are unusually heavy. In consequence of the late rains, and unreasonably cool weather, there is considerable smut in the wheat. The harvest is hurried through, in order that the people may go to the mines on Fraser and Thompson's rivers, in the southern part of the British possessions. The excitement about the mines is extraordinary. It is estimated that between twenty-five and thirty thousand persons have already started thither from California, nearly all of whom are at different points in the vicinity of the mouth of Fraser River, seeking a good trail to cross the Cascade Range of mountains. Very few had, at last accounts, reached the mines; and, as speculators, particularly the steamship companies, have great interest in keeping up the excitement, it is feared the richness of the mines is overrated, and that thousands of persons have left much better mining claims in California than they will get in the North. If the reports of abundance of gold are confirmed, it will be a snug thing for that section of country, and also for our adjoining Territory, Washington. The most intense excitement prevails about which is the best route to the gold region. Some contend for that up the Columbia River and by way of the Dalles; others say that a much shorter, and in other respects, equally as good a trail, can be found across the Cascade Range at Bellingham Bay. Oregonians, of course, go in for the former; but the present Indian hostilities on that route have hitherto prevented many from attempting to go that way. A party of about ninety men, under Captain Robertson, started from the Dalles some six weeks ago for the mines by that route, but were driven back by the Indians, with a loss of two men killed, several drowned and wounded, and all their pack animals, provisions, etc. Larger parties have since gone out with stock, and others are preparing to depart, through the same section of country. Our old friend, the ex-Superintendent of Indian Affairs, General Palmer, is one of the number. If the mines are no failure, a flourishing town must be built on this coast, in close proximity to the golden region. The great question is, where it shall be. The little town of Victoria on Vancouver's Island, in the British possessions, is at present the center of attraction. Town lots, which were not worth ten dollars previous to the excitement, are now renting there for one hundred and twenty-five dollars per month. Real estate in San Francisco, Sacramento, and throughout California is rapidly decreasing in value, in consequence of the vast drain upon the population. Flour, beef, and other provisions are rising rapidly in price in Oregon and Washington Territories. Speculators are hurrying all over the country, buying up all they can get at double what they were worth a few weeks ago.
    The troops expected by the last steamer arrived at Fort Vancouver. Captain H. M. Judah's company from Fort Jones, which came up by land, will also get there today. Two columns are to proceed against the hostile Indians--one battalion of nine companies, being four of the First Dragoons, four of the Third Artillery, and one of the Ninth Infantry, under Colonel George Wright, is to start from Fort Walla Walla; and another of five companies, that is, three of the Ninth and two of the Fourth Infantry, under Major Robert S. Garnett, from Fort Simcoe. They expect to get off by the first of August.
    There is really no news at this post of importance. A general court-martial was convened here on the 15th and adjourned on the 16th instant, of which I was Judge Advocate. The members were: Captain David A. Russell, Lieutenant Henry C. Hodges, Fourth Infantry, Lieutenant Joshua W. Sill, Ordnance Department, Lieutenant Phillip H. Sheridan, and Lieutenant William T. Gentry, Fourth Infantry. Only three cases tried--two of which were for desertion.
    I am now financially a ruined man. All my savings have been lost by the carelessness of an agent. Having good health and a large though laborious private practice in the vicinity of this post, I shall work harder than ever to secure a few thousand dollars to give me a start in civil life. This can be accomplished in a year or two--then goodbye to the army, frontier isolation, and further dependence on unreliable agents. If I were now to resign, which I am half inclined to do, my practice in the Willamette Valley would soon make up my losses; but city practice, although slower in the beginning, affords a better chance for distinction in the long run--so I shall strike for that or nothing.
    As my financial troubles alluded to above are analogous to those of army officers generally, who are under the necessity of employing agents to preserve their small savings, I shall give a general statement of the same:
    On coming to this coast I left a portion of my means loaned out on interest, and secured by bond and mortgage upon real estate in New York. Bringing the remainder with me, and placing it in San Francisco with an agent, who, from having once been an esteemed officer of the Army, of good financial ability, had the entire confidence of every military man in California.
    This gentleman having explained to me the various methods he had under his control for investing the funds of his clients, I chose that of security by bond and mortgage upon real estate, as the safest, although yielding the smallest interest. From time to time I added a little to the amount left in his possession.
    After a short service in Oregon, I learned that my agent had ceased to carry on a legitimate banking business, though this was paying him well, and had embarked pretty extensively in buying and selling of mining stock. Fully appreciating the hazardous character of mining stock speculation, I made some inquiries as to whether my money was really invested as requested, and was annoyed to find that it was not. After a tedious correspondence on the subject I succeeded in having it placed out on mortgage, as directed.
    In January of last year, a friend returned from Portland with the news of my agent's failure, and added that nearly every Army officer on the Pacific Coast had thereby been plunged in penury. Seeing the necessity of preventing the note owing to me, and then nearly due, from being paid into the hands of my agent, I hastily drew up a revocation of my power of attorney to him, and appointed a new attorney. I had the new instrument executed before a neighboring Justice of the Peace. But it being essential to secure a certificate from the County Clerk, to the effect that the officer before whom the letter of attorney was executed was really a Justice of the Peace, I rode twenty-five miles through one of the deepest snows that had ever fallen in Oregon, to Dalles, the county seat. On arriving there the office was closed. I then continued a few miles further to the residence of a lawyer, who, unfortunately, told me that in order to make my paper legal I must go eight miles further to Salem, and get the power of attorney executed before a notary public. Contrary to my own judgment I followed his advice. This extra trip took up so much of my time that on returning to the Fort I found the expressman had already departed for Portland with the mail, thus causing a detention of a fortnight more before my document could possibly go down on the steamer. On the next trip of the latter she was detained ten days by ice in the Columbia River. To add still further to my troubles, my power of attorney was returned from San Francisco, to be certified to by the County Clerk, as I had at first intended.
    However, the instrument ultimately reached its destination just in time, and my funds were forwarded to my agent in New York, who was directed to invest them, together with the amount left under his supervision on my departure for the Pacific Coast, in suburban real estate in Chicago. Instead of following my instructions, he has kept the money in his own hands, and is now about to fail, leaving me the alternative of total loss, or taking worthless western lands.
    August 17th, 1858.--Major B. Alvord, his brother, Mr. Vansycle, Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express Agent at Portland, Oregon Territory, and son, arrived here on the 15th instant, and left for Fort Hoskins this morning.
    The troops were paid for four months. They are entitled to their pay every two months, but the Paymaster rarely gets around so often.
    We learn that the mail steamer did not reach Portland on the last trip until the 12th instant. She was detained by fogs, and by going in search of the steamship Oregon, which ran on the rocks at Point Reyes on her last downward trip from Victoria to San Francisco. The accident is attributed to a variation in the compass--the Captain supposing he was running clear of the point some six miles, whereas he ran directly on it. There was a very dense fog at the time. As the vessel struck, many of the passengers sprang ashore, and some few are supposed to have been drowned in the effort to get on land. The engine was reversed immediately, and the steamer got to sea. She reached San Francisco in safety. The injury caused a considerable leak, but the holes were stopped with cloths, and the vessel easily kept free from water by bailing. Captain Patterson was in command.
    It is now positively ascertained that there will be no war with the Mormons. The Peace Commissioners, sent to Utah by the President, arrived there about the 7th of July, and had a conference with Brigham Young and the leading Mormons, who have agreed to yield implicit obedience to the laws of the United States; in fact Brigham Young had, about a month previously, given up the seal of the Territory to his successor, Governor Cummings. Both the Governor and Commissioners went from Camp Scott to Salt Lake City unaccompanied by the army. The latter, under Brevet Brigadier General Johnston, had, in the meantime, been reinforced to three thousand men, and replenished with supples, and all the necessary equipments for a vigorous campaign, in case the Mormons proved obdurate. Some two thousand more regular troops were also en route from the States. Also, Brigadier General Harney (promoted last spring), who was to assume chief command--General Persifor F. Smith having died at Fort Leavenworth shortly after being ordered to Utah. In the early part of the spring the Mormons commenced an exodus to the southern part of the Territory, with the view, as was conjectured, of seeking a new home somewhere in Mexico. They were, at last accounts, returning to their homes.
    The army had not, at last dates, approached nearer the city of Salt Lake than Camp Scott. Many of the troops ordered thither have, since the first report of Governor Cummings that Young had turned over the Territorial Seal, been ordered to other points on the western frontier. One regiment of Infantry, either the Sixth or Seventh, has been ordered to Fort Walla Walla, on this coast, to aid in quelling Indian disturbances. In the meantime the Commandant of the Department has dispatched all the available troops on this coast to that section--the main body consisting of about one hundred and ninety dragoons, four hundred artillery, and ninety infantry--total, six hundred and eighty, with about two hundred camp followers, packers, wagoners, etc., or about nine companies--were to leave Walla Walla on the 15th instant; and the other column, of about five companies, under Major R. S. Garnett, were to start from Fort Simcoe about the 9th instant. The Indians, in the meantime, have been making great preparations for war, and state that they will not be subdued.
    They have lately driven back several parties of miners on their way to Fraser River. Larger parties have since gone out through the same section, well armed and prepared to fight their way to the mines. The largest party, numbering over two hundred men, commanded by a Major Robertson, has gone out, via the Dalles and Fort Simcoe. Another party under General Joel Palmer has taken the route a little further east, via the Dalles and Fort Walla Walla. Others are preparing to follow.
    As it regards the mines, we have no more reliable information than we had when the excitement first commenced, from the fact of the Fraser River region being hemmed in by mountains. Many of those who shipped for the vicinity of the mouth of Fraser River, with the view of crossing the Cascade Range in that neighborhood, have returned in disgust. Thousands are, however, still awaiting at Victoria for a trail to be discovered. And it is now said that a good route has been found leading up Fraser River a short distance; thence up a northern branch, or Harrison River; thence across a few small lakes, and over only a moderately rough country to the mines. Nous verrons.
    September 14th, 1858.--Very close and warm all day. Our expressman arrived on the 12th instant, bringing Eastern dates to August 6th.
    The most important item of news is that the laying of the Atlantic Telegraph was nearly completed.
    General Johnston's command marched through Salt Lake City, July ----, 1858, in admirable order--not a single individual permitted to leave the ranks. His permanent camp not selected at last accounts. The Mormons were returning to their deserted homes.
    There is a pretty reliable rumor that the troops under Colonel Wright met the Indians at Camp Four Lakes, and totally routed them.

    September 23rd, 1858.--Our expressman arrived from Portland yesterday. The mail reached there on the 20th. The most important news is the success of the Submarine Telegraph Cable. It will be recollected that the first submersion commenced August 5th, 1857, and resulted in a total failure. The second trial was commenced this last summer. The telegraphic fleet consisting of three British vessels, the Agamemnon, Valorous, and Gorgon, and the United States steam frigate Niagara, left Plymouth, England, on Thursday, June 10th, 1858. Owing to boisterous weather, the first splice was not made till the 26th of June, in mid-ocean. The cable being broken three times, and four hundred miles of it lost, the fleet put back for Queenstown, Ireland, and started from there on the final and successful trip, July 17th, 1858, and met in mid-ocean Wednesday, the 28th, made the splice at 1 P.M., and on the 29th separated, the Agamemnon and Valorous bound for Valentia, Ireland, and the Niagara and Gorgon for the Bay of Bull's Arm, Trinity Bay, Newfoundland. Both ends through August 5th, 1858. The first communications through the cable were a message from Queen Victoria to President Buchanan, and his reply. After that, various other congratulatory messages passed between some of the high functionaries of England and the United States. At last dates the Telegraph Cable was not in perfect working order, and would not be opened to the public for several days.
    "Down, down to its lowest deep--but late deemed fathomless--go the magic wires, upon which play the harmonies of whole peoples. Under the homes of the Leviathans, clustered in obscurity and mystery, where no human eye can reach, and where early faiths placed the water-gods, run these cunning devices by which nation speaks to nation, continent to continent, in the lightnings of the heavens. The old theory of distances, severances, and physical possibilities seems destroyed, to be replaced by new combinations and consequences. The seas, storms, sucking down argosies and armadas, are now compensated for by the prowess which seizes the deep and uses it for human purposes, declaiming in the language of nature itself--silent and sublime."
    The rumored engagement of the troops under Colonel Wright with the Indians is now fully confirmed. His expedition, composed of Companies C, E, H, and I, First Dragoons, A, B, G, K and M, Third Artillery, and B and E, Ninth Infantry--being a total of five hundred and seventy men, with thirty Nez Perces Indians, acting as guides and scouts, left Fort Walla Walla, Washington Territory, in two divisions on the 7th and 15th of August, crossed Snake River on the 26th, where a post was established and placed under the charge of Brevet Major Wyse and his company, D, Third Artillery, and, after a hard march of ninety miles, and several slight skirmishes with the enemy, met a large band of Confederate Pelouse, Spokane, and Cœur d'Alene Indians, many of whom were mounted. Leaving the supplies and baggage under a guard of fifty-four men, under the command of Captain Hardie, Third Artillery, Colonel Wright, on the 1st of September, moved, with the rest of his command, against the enemy, who was posted on an eminence partly covered with timber, ready for battle. The foot troops repulsed the Indians, who were pursued by the dragoons and completely routed, with a loss of seventeen killed and many wounded. The command suffered no loss whatever. After defeating the confederate bands of the enemy at the Four Lakes, in Washington Territory, the Colonel continued his march into the hostile Indian country, and, on the 5th of September met the same tribes of Indians, who had in the meantime, been strengthened by the Pend d'Oreilles. After a desultory and running fight of seven hours, the Indians were again put to flight, leaving dead on the field two chiefs, two head warriors, and many others killed and wounded, with no casualties to the troops, except the wounding of one man.
    After a day's rest, the command pursued the Indians until they were entirely and totally dispersed, having a skirmish with them on the 8th of September, and taking from them nearly one thousand horses, many cattle, and a large quantity of provisions, grain, etc., which were destroyed. The Indians are reported to be completely demoralized, and willing to enter into stipulations for peace.
    October 1st, 1858.--The following is a summary of the weather for the past twelve months at Fort Yamhill, Oregon Territory:
    October 27th, 1858.--Lieutenant Benjamin D. Forsythe joined this post on the 25th instant, after an absence of two years from his regiment on the recruiting service. He is quite a social addition to our little circle.
    Our expressman arrived from Portland yesterday, bringing us New York dates of the 20th ultimo. The most important news to us is that the Pacific Department has been divided into the Department of California and the Department of Oregon. The former to embrace California, the latter the Territories of Oregon and Washington, excepting the Rogue River and Umpqua Districts, which are included in the Department of California. Brevet Brigadier General Newman S. Clarke is placed in command of the latter, and Brigadier General William S. Harney in command of the Department of Oregon. The latter's headquarters are at Fort Vancouver, where he arrived on the 24th instant.
    The General came prepared to make a winter's campaign against the Indians. He had ordered one thousand rifles of the best model, a large number of high-topped winter boots, and warm mittens, etc. On his arrival he found the war ended and the troops coming into winter quarters. General Clarke had taken his departure for San Francisco, and the artillery companies had been ordered by him to California. This order General Harney countermanded. It is thought the Sixth Infantry will be retained in California, on its arrival there from Utah, en route for Fort Walla Walla, as it is more needed there than in Oregon; besides, it is General Clarke's own regiment.
    The Indian War in Oregon and Washington Territories is considered over. The troops are all nearly in. Colonel Wright hung quite a number of Spokanes and other hostile Indians for their murders and depredations previous to the war, the notorious Qualchan among the number. He hung him on the 23rd of September. His father, Owhi, the head chief of the Klickitats, and a man of great influence among the tribes generally in that country, was taken prisoner with the view of sending him to Benicia, California. He attempted to escape and was shot by the guard. All the murderers of Indian Agent Boland, some seven in number, have been taken and hung; some by orders of Colonel Wright, others by Major Garnett. The latter gentleman has started for the States with the remains of his wife, who died at Fort Simcoe whilst he was absent in the field. Colonel Steptoe and several other officers have also gone East on leaves of absence.
    November 12th, 1858.--Colonel Joseph K. F. Mansfield, Inspector General, arrived here on the 9th instant, and inspected the troops on the following day, and took his departure yesterday for Fort Hoskins.
    He brought up New York papers of October 5th. By them we learn that the Atlantic Telegraph is out of order. No intelligent signals have been passed on it from Valencia to Newfoundland since September 4th, and a few days subsequently the signals failed in the opposite direction. It is supposed that one or more partial fractures have occurred in it several hundreds of miles out at sea.
    The steamship Austria, bound from Hamburg via Southampton to New York, was burnt on the 13th of September, nine days out, and five hundred of the six hundred passengers lost. Those saved were picked up from lifeboats and buoys near the scene of the disaster. It seems that the captain, by the advice of the surgeon, had ordered the steerage to be fumigated with burning tar. The plan was to take a heated iron chain and moisten it with tar. The chain proving too hot to be held, the man let it fall and knocked over the tar bucket. The chain ignited the tar. The passengers, in their ignorance and confusion, dashed water on the burning tar, and thus spread it all over the deck and into the magazine, which exploded. The ship was, of course, destroyed in a few minutes. Instead of throwing on water they should have smothered the tar with mattresses and blankets.
    The papers also speak of a remarkable ascension of two children in a balloon. It appears that a Mr. S. M. Brooks was to have made a balloon ascension at Centralia, Illinois, sometime in September, but he being sick at the time, a Mr. Wilson went up, and after sailing sixteen miles, landed near a Mr. Harvey's. Whilst Mr. W. was engaged in conversation with some gentlemen, Mr. Harvey amused himself by putting into the balloon his two children, a girl of eight years and a lad of three, and he then let the balloon loose, intending to allow it to ascend a few yards and draw it down again by means of a rope. But the latter slipped from the hands of those holding it, and up went the balloon out of sight. It was carried eighteen miles, and, descending, lodged in the top of a tree, near a farmer's house, and was got down without any accident to the children. It seems that the little girl, after being up a long time, accidentally pulled on the rope which opens the escape valve, and, finding it lowered the balloon, kept on pulling till the latter descended. The man who first discovered their perilous predicament in the treetop, was gazing out of his window a little before daylight to see the comet.
    By the by, this reminds me that a large and beautiful comet was visible in the western heavens every evening from early in September to the middle of October. It could also be seen in the northeast and east just before daylight in the morning. There is a dispute among savants as to its identity. Some maintain that it is the comet of Charles the Fifth, which last made its appearance in 1556, others that it is a new comet, first discovered by Donati, in Italy, on the 3rd of June--hence termed Donati's comet.
    After an exceedingly laborious day of professional duty through mud, rain and snow, I was late last evening warming my feet with delightful anticipations of a good night's rest, which had not been my fortune for some time, when a hasty and loud knock at my door warned me that some unfortunate person needed my assistance. I was requested by the Reverend Mr. Chamberlin to hurry to his house, several miles in the country, as fast as possible, as his wife was very ill. Wishing that I was anything else but a doctor, I nevertheless obeyed the summons.
    It being necessary to cross the Yamhill River, which was very high, we unsuccessfully attempted to get the ferryman to put us over, and were driven to the necessity of swimming our horses at the ford. On arriving at my patient's house, wet and cold, I tried to get a cup of hot tea or coffee, but the lady of the house being ill, and her husband in one of his insane paroxysms, this beverage could not be obtained. After a detention of a few hours I returned home again thoroughly exhausted. Such is country practice.
    Mr. Chamberlin is a Methodist minister of fair education, and of agreeable, affable manners, when not insanely excited upon any subject. He believes himself to be a missionary, especially called by God to evangelize the Rogue River Indians. When this impression first took hold of him he was a resident of the State of Michigan; but suddenly leaving all of his worldly goods and his very interesting family behind, he started across the continent alone, taking his provisions along in a wheelbarrow. Of course, he replenished his supplies occasionally from the various emigrant parties that he fell in with; but steadily refused to journey with any of them, preferring to travel alone in the wild Indian country and trust only in the Lord, who had called him to regenerate a morally dead, and physically dying, race of men and women on the far-off Pacific shores. By persistent efforts he at one time obtained the appointment of school-teacher to the Indians on the Grand Ronde Reservation, but firmly refused any remuneration from the government. The agent wisely appropriated his salary in supporting his family, who had in the meantime arrived from the States.
    The reverend gentleman would often take everything in the clothing and eating line that he could find in his house and donate it to the Indians, who were at the time being well cared for by the government, thus frequently leaving his wife and children destitute of the necessaries of life. Being put off the reservation by the agent, he went to Washington City without a dollar in his pocket, and by personal appeals to the Secretary of the Interior Department got reinstated. The matter culminated, however, in his final dismissal from the reservation.
    He has taken up his abode in a miserable old log cabin (where I went last night), occasionally working and preaching in the neighborhood, abiding the good time when all obstacles to his mission among his brethren, the Indians, shall have been removed. His faith and goodness of heart deserve better success than has thus far been his portion.
    February 10th, 1859.--The present winter has been as wet, muddy, and dreary as usual. There is only one company at this post, and four officers, including myself. We are all bachelors. Our life at present is very monotonous. The Indians on the reservation cause us a little excitement, by way of variety, occasionally. Being split up into numerous small bands, and located in close proximity, they consequently quarrel a good deal among themselves. The greatest source of trouble with them arises from their superstitious notions in regard to the supposed supernatural influence of their "medicine man" in producing or curing disease. As the latter profess an absolute power in this respect, they are held responsible for the lives of their patients should nature claim her rights, and if the doctor be unwilling or unable to pay a fair valuation for the deceased, it is customary for the latter's relatives or friends to kill him. This was formerly a universal habit with the Oregon Indians, but is becoming obsolete. Nevertheless, there have been no less than five or six doctors and doctresses killed by the Indians on this reservation--Grand Ronde--since I came here, two and a half years ago. The Indian and Military Departments have endeavored to persuade them out of this absurd practice, and have lately determined to punish those who shall hereafter engage in it.
    A few days ago, the Umpquas, having a doctoress they wished to have killed, hired a party of Rogue Rivers to murder her. Some nine of them, accordingly, shot her to death. The commander of this post, Captain David A. Russell, immediately sent for Sam and Louis, the respective chiefs of the Rogue River and Umpqua Indians, to have a talk about the matter. The latter obeyed the summons; but the former, not coming in time, was again sent for, and told to be here by noon of the 7th instant. He came, and was directed to return the following day with the murderers, or the troops would be sent to bring them and him, too. As the Umpquas had hired his people to commit the deed, he thought it unfair to have them held responsible for it, and, therefore, very reluctantly promised to comply. He did not return as commanded, and it was rumored that he would resist, should a force be sent to arrest them. As Old Sam's band of Rogue River Indians were known to be good shots, desperately brave, and armed with excellent rifles, we fully expected trouble.
    The reason why they had not been disarmed previously, like the other Indians, was owing to their refusing to join the confederate hostile bands during the last Rogue River War, and the fact of their being the first to move on to this reservation.
    A detachment of fifty men, under Lieutenant B. D. Forsythe, accompanied by Lieutenant Philip H. Sheridan and myself, was dispatched at 3 A.M., on the 9th instant, in the midst of a snow storm, to the camp of the Indians, with orders to disarm them and arrest the principal murderers.
    Owing to a difficulty in crossing the Yamhill River, which was very high, and an unexpected wearisome march over a mountain spur that lies near the camp, we did not reach the latter until broad daylight.
    On arriving within a few hundred yards of the place, our force was divided into two parties. The smaller one, under Sheridan, was to dash on to the chief's shanty and arrest him. The larger, under Forsythe and myself, was to rush against the main village and disarm the inmates.
    Sheridan took Old Sam completely by surprise, and made him a prisoner. Forsythe and myself, having further to go, were seen by the Indians, who at first fled for the timber nearby; but soon rallied. A few shots were exchanged without effect, and a parley was agreed upon.
    At the beginning of the excitement, the chief's son, a lad of twelve years, rode several times within forty yards of the soldiers, making the most insulting demonstrations. On his last attempt Forsythe declared that he would stand it no longer, and raised his rifle to fire at the little fellow, but was restrained on my hastily reminding him of the boy's extreme youthfulness.
    Whilst the parley was going on, the majority of the Indians on one side, and the troops on the other, were arranged in two parallel lines, at a distance of forty yards apart. A few of the former were hidden behind their shanties, with their guns already pointed towards us. After thus standing face to face in the cold, pelting snow storm for several hours, with no prospect of a peaceful surrender on the part of the Indians, Forsythe told them his patience was exhausted, and that unless they should come to terms within five minutes he would fire upon them. Just as the time was about to expire they concluded to surrender unconditionally. We then simply disarmed those in hostile array, and arrested Shasta Jim, the chief murderer.
    Old Tom, the chief's brother, is one of the noblest specimens of an Indian I have ever seen. Bold as a Spartan, and with a stentorian voice, he is the beau ideal of a warrior. We feel confident that he never would have yielded had he not have believed that his prisoner brother, Sam, would have been the first victim of the fight.
    After the Indians had, at his command, handed over their arms, he came nobly forward and gave up his rifle to Forsythe. The latter was so impressed with his noble, soldierly bearing, that he returned him his weapon, saying, with a quivering voice and tears in his eyes, "Tom, keep your gun, and let us shake hands in friendship."
    Umpqua Ellick, the main instigator of the murder, was also made a prisoner, and both he and Shasta Jim were confined in the guard-house at the garrison, at hard labor, with balls and chains attached to their legs. Sam was brought to the fort to receive a reprimand from the commanding officer, and was afterwards set at liberty.

    Having given extracts from the only part of my private journal that could be of any interest to the general reader, I shall add a few remarks on several subjects alluded to in a disconnected manner in said diary--such as the Indians and their relations to the government--garrison society--a comparative view of the climates the Southwest and Northwest Coast.
    First, then, as to the Indians and their relations to the government. So much has been written upon the subject of Indians by novelists and others, many of whom have never seen an Indian in their lives, excepting the few representatives of various tribes who have occasionally visited their great father at Washington, that the theme has become somewhat threadbare. I think, however, that my experience will justify a few remarks upon the question, as I have seen the Indians in all their varied grades of life, from the civilized in the interior of the state of New York, and the half-civilized in the Cherokee and Choctaw nations, down to the wild Tonkaways and Comanches of our southwestern prairies, and the Snake and Coast Indians, of Oregon. I have beheld them in health and in sickness, in peace and in war, and from a position somewhat different from that of most observers. Out of the sixteen millions of those red men who once roamed abroad over the vast area of the United States, there are now living about three hundred and forty thousand. War, pestilence, and famine have made sad havoc with these original lords of the soil; and the day is not far distant when we will hear of them only in history. It is, therefore, the duty of everyone who knows anything of this fast fading race to place it upon record for the information of future generations.
    Some persons look upon the Indian as essentially a thieving, lying, cruel, relentless and murderous savage, worthy of no sympathy or love; and possessing no rights that ought to be respected, who should be shot down as a wild beast, and utterly exterminated from the face of the earth; whilst others paint him in glowing colors as possessing highly intellectual and moral qualities, and as being the innocent victim of the white man's revenge. One party denies the capability of an Indian to be civilized or Christianized, and pronounces all efforts towards this result by the government as magnificent failures; whilst others believe that it is only necessary to explain to the Indian what civilization and Christianity are, and his whole nature is suddenly changed. Others again, think that those Indians only who hover on the border of civilization, and whose habits have been changed by long and persistent cruel treatment on the part of the whites, deserve the name of savages; that to find the red man in his faithful, honest, hospitable, noble and brave condition, it is necessary to see him in his native home, undefiled by contamination with the rest of the world.
    When an Indian war occurs, a larger portion of the people of the Eastern States are too willing to believe that the right is always on the side of the poor Indian, who ought to be protected and kept out of harm's way, instead of being chastised into submission to the laws of the land. I cannot hope to reconcile or control all of these extreme views. It seem to me that the Indian, in his native state, possesses but few attributes of a noble character. He is certainly treacherous, cruel and relentless. When his savage nature is aroused, he becomes a very fiend in human form, and treacherously strikes down them who have befriended him the most, especially if they belong to the white race. Yet, that he is capable of civilization, the history of a large number of tribes most fully attests. This change cannot be effected in a day, or a month, but, in its highest degree, requires many years. Under proper instruction and treatment, he can, in process of time, be made an industrious, quiet and Christian human being.
    It should not be expected that any savage race could, in the short space of one generation, become adepts in the higher degrees of civilization. The most enlightened nations on the face of the globe can hardly claim such rapid advancement. It took centuries to make the Greeks and Romans what they were in the zenith of their prosperity, or the Germans, French and English what they are at present. Why, then, should we expect impossibilities of the American aborigines? My experience goes to prove that in our Indian wars the blame is not always on either side alone. Some times bad men among the Indians kindle the flame; at other times, renegade whites.
    In the mining regions of the Pacific Coast, the remote and immediate causes of hostilities are too often the abuse of the Indian women by a few bad white men. The lawless acts of the latter have served to give an unjustly bad reputation to the general population of the Pacific Coast. After an experience of nineteen years in this country, I feel proud to say that the permanent settlers have been generally disposed to treat the Indians kindly, and that the abuse of the latter has nearly always been by a few vagabonds and desperadoes, belonging to what is termed here the floating population--especially in our mining regions. We must not, however, cast a stigma upon miners in general because of the bad conduct of a few of their number, any more than we should cry down the occupants of St. Louis, Baltimore, New York, or Boston, because of the acts of lawlessness in their midst.
    This calumny of cruel treatment is especially unjust to the farmers of the Northwest Coast. Aside from moral considerations, this class of people, having their families with them, have always been particularly careful to avoid arousing the Indian's dreadful revenge. Occasionally the cause is traceable to petty thefts on the part of the Indians, and subsequent harsh punishment from the whites. Again, it is owing to robberies or murders by bad men among the former. The prime instigators in all these troubles generally escape punishment, whilst the peaceably disposed of both races become the innocent victims of contending strife. The spirit of revenge being once aroused in the breasts of the savages, they indiscriminately and cruelly slay every white person within their reach. Then comes the counter feeling of vengeance on the part of the border settlers, who call for the extermination of the Indian race as the only salvation for themselves. It is thus, by the indiscretion or wickedness of a few men, that such intense hatred is so frequently created between our pioneer settlers and their Indian neighbors.
    It is no wonder, then, that the volunteer troops, called out from the smoking ruins of their homes, and the dying shrieks of their fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, and children in the indiscriminate slaughter by the savages that ushers in an Indian outbreak, should be a little disposed to intemperate acts against the red men. Let such of our eastern friends, who think the white man always in the wrong, be placed, for a while, under the same circumstances as are the frequently unprotected and unavenged pioneer settlers, and they will soon come to the conclusion that their sympathies should occasionally be spared for their own deeply wronged race, instead of being forever extended towards their idol, the poor Indian.
    The policy of the government in placing the Indians on reservations as fast as the white settlements encroach upon their hunting and fishing grounds is, perhaps, the most humane that could be devised, provided it is carried out faithfully and honestly by its agents. When, however, the latter are appointed because of their political principles or services to any particular party, rather than on account of their peculiar fitness for the position, the poor Indian often becomes robbed of half his rights, and the plighted faith of the government is thereby tarnished.
    The old system of political appointments in the Indian Department has been found imperfect and faulty in this respect. It remains to be seen how the plan adopted by President Grant, of removing the nominations of agents and superintendents from the political arena, and getting the various denominations of Christians to select from among themselves reliable persons for these positions, is likely to succeed. In some places this method has worked admirably well. In others it has failed, because the agents thus appointed have leaned too much on the side of mercy, and delayed too long the punishment of rebellious Indians, to the ultimate damage and loss to the government in money and valuable lives.
    I think, however, the dilly-dallying policy pursued under the influence of the Peace Commissioners in regard to the Modoc Indians, in the winter of 1873, will for all time be a warning to Christian philanthropists, and help them to appreciate more fully their duties in the premises hereafter. Therefore, I hope that the affairs of the Indian Department, under the protection of good, Christian, and otherwise efficient men, may, after a little experience, be found to work well. If a failure be the ultimate result, then, by all means, let the government merge the Indian into the War Department, where it once was, and from which it never ought to have been taken. There are many reasons why this should be done.
    Army officers are not broken-down political hacks, who for past or future services to their party are expected and permitted to make their short term of office pay them something beyond the mere bread-and-butter salary generally allowed by the government; but gentlemen holding a life appointment of so honorable a nature that they cannot afford to have their reputations tarnished by dishonest transactions, however profitable these might be to them in a pecuniary point of view. Besides, the Indian and War Departments rarely ever agree in their lines of policy towards the Indians in times of peace or war, and when an outbreak occurs they are generally at cross-purposes, until the trouble is so far under way that nothing but millions of money and hundreds of valuable lives can stem the fury of the savage contest.
    If, on the other hand, the commanding officers of the various military posts, on or adjacent to the Indian reservations; or in the country of the wild Indians on the plains, who may not yet be circumscribed in their field of roaming; were ex-officio Indian agents, the policy of the government towards the Indians could be far more efficiently carried out. The Indians of each district would have only one white man chief to consult, instead of two, as heretofore, in regard to their wishes, and the instructions of their great father at Washington; and would soon learn that whilst the latter sympathizes with his poor red brethren of the prairies and wild forests, and desires to shield and protect them while good; yet, when his anger is kindled by their misbehavior and crimes, punishment for the guilty is certain and swift. Simplicity is a jewel in all the multifarious relations of life, but eminently so in our dealings with the Indians, who, though physically men, are intellectually little children.
    Of course, there are some objections to merging the two departments into one. The Indians may not be christianized as fast as by the present system, and it may be the means of demoralizing, in course of time, the army itself; for corrupt men are pretty sure to force themselves into all positions in life where much of the public money is disbursed. The latter objection holds to some extent in the present system; but the Christian societies themselves can more easily watch their appointees than it is possible for the government to do.
    The plan commonly adopted of placing these unfortunate people on reservations, and providing for their physical and moral wants, until they can take care of themselves, is not only dictated by the common principles of humanity, but is found by experience to be the most economical and prudent mode of dealing with them.
    The vast herds of buffalo which for ages have roamed over the plains, affording lodges, clothing, and food for the wild prairie tribes, have been so wantonly slaughtered by traders, sportsmen, and tourists, as well as by the improvident Indians themselves, that the latter can look to this, their natural source of physical sustenance, but a few years longer at furthest. Likewise, the deer and elk of the mountains and the fish of the rivers of the Pacific Coast are fast disappearing; and even where they still abound are claimed by other men, of a race antagonistic to the original owners of the soil. What then must become of these poor creatures if the government should listen to the hue and cry of some of our people, and fail to lend a helping hand in time of need. Robbery and bloodshed would, of course, predominate along the extensive line of our frontier. For no race of men will suffer the pangs of nakedness and hunger without an effort to sustain their lives by stratagem or force, if no other means are at their command. Let them work as white men do, some would reply. But in order to work they must first be taught how, and afterwards have employment furnished them. This can only be done at the commencement on reservations, where they can be taught and induced to work for themselves. For nobody is willing to employ an uncouth savage to perform labor on his farm, or in his shop, or about his house, when he is aware that he can do nothing right except by constant watching. One might as well think of employing an insane person as an Indian fresh from the haunts of his native home, whose sense of right and wrong is, in most respects, so radically at variance with the common precepts of morality and religion. Continue to place them on reservations, and provide for their wants awhile; and even though their morals in some respects become corrupted by contact with a few bad white men, who occasionally get access to these new abodes of the red men, this cannot occur to the same extent as when they are left to shift entirely for themselves.
    Having thus glanced at a few of the practical questions growing out of our relations with the Indians, it might be expected that some general allusions should be made upon the various theories in regard to the origin of this race of human beings. Are they native to the manor born? Have they a common origin with the rest of mankind, from the original parent stock in Eden, and been propagated on the American Continent by straggling parties from Asia or Europe? Are they a cross between the Asiatic or European and an original race native to this continent?
    I am satisfied that no amount of traveling among the Indians can ever furnish sufficient data upon these interesting questions to satisfy conclusively the inquiring mind. Arguments of almost equal pertinence and force can be advanced upon each and all of these puzzling human problems. Some investigators claim that the Indians are a separate and distinct people from all other nations and races--springing from one or more parent stocks originating on the American Continent. Others maintain that they have their origin in common with the races of Europe and Asia, in our original ancestors, Adam and Eve; and that in some remote period in the dim past a few persons from Asia, by accident or otherwise, found their way in boats across Bering's Straits to the Northwest Coast of America, and thence, in due course of time, spread their progeny all over North and South America and the adjacent islands. They adduce in support of this theory the striking resemblance in features and languages of all the tribes to each other, and claim that the language is traceable to a common root, which is exotic. A third party believe that a parent stock native to this continent has been engrafted with the ten lost tribes of Israel. They think that the character and conformation of the heads of the aborigines, and many of their customs, indicate that they have Jewish blood in their veins. The very general Indian custom of worshiping the Great Spirit--instead of stocks, and stones, and idols, as the ancient heathens and pagans did--is adduced in support of this theory. Also the facts that the Indians are divided up into tribes and bands, under the authority of captains and chiefs, and have their prophets and high priests (medicine men), and make their women in all religious festivals and ceremonies keep entirely separate from the men--like the Jews--are alleged as additional proof. They also claim a resemblance in the modes of courting and marrying by the giving of presents, etc.
    Some authorities would have us believe that the wild Indians of the Southwestern plains, especially the Comanches, are entirely different in appearance and habits from the numerous tribes that once existed east of the Mississippi, and present a striking resemblance to the Arabs. It seems to me utterly impossible for any person, at this late period, to determine fully the origin of this singular race of human beings. The more one endeavors to inquire into the arguments in support of any particular hypothesis upon the subject, the more intricate it becomes, until, finally, we abandon the question in utter despair of any solution whatever.
    The wild Indians of the prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains, hunt and fight on horseback in the open prairie; so do some of the tribes residing between those mountains and the Cascade Range. On the other hand, the tribes and bands on the Pacific Coast, west of the Cascade Mountains, live, hunt, and fight mostly on foot, and under cover of rocks and trees, like the Indians who formerly inhabited the country between the Mississippi River and the Atlantic Ocean.
    Nearly all of the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains, though using the bow and arrow when the fur traders first came among them in the earlier part of this century, have learned to handle the rifle with fearful accuracy and skill. This is preeminently the case with those bands who formerly inhabited the country adjacent to the upper part of Rogue River and its tributaries, in Southern Oregon--especially the bands of Old Sam, John, George, and Limpy--who took such a prominent part in the Rogue River war of 1855 and 1856, and were finally subdued by the troops and forced to go on the Coast Reservation, where they are at this time. It is also true of that other band of Upper Rogue River Indians, who were not parties to General Palmer's treaty of 1855, or participants in the war that subsequently followed, and who were consequently not removed on the same reservation with their neighbors, but allowed to remain a while longer in their own country. I allude to the Modocs, whose names for Indian treachery and Spartan bravery have lately attracted the attention of the civilized world.
    It is said that the Comanches on the plains are slow to adopt the modern improvements in warfare, and cling tenaciously to the bow and arrow, lance and shield. The latter Indians also transport their lodges wherever they chance to roam; whereas, the Pacific Coast Indians, like the tribes which formerly inhabited the Atlantic Coast, have fixed places of abode, and cherish an abiding affection for the homes and graves of their forefathers.
    This feeling was a serious obstacle in the way of removing the Indians living on the coast shortly after the Indian outbreak of 1855 and 1856; and even after they were induced to go on the reservation, situated some distance north of their places of abode, and were clothed and fed by the government, they pined for their old homes, and would often reply, when asked by the doctor what was the matter, that their tum-tums were sick--their hearts were sick. This homesickness weighed so heavily on some of them that they actually pined away and died.
    Why is it that the Indian race is fast becoming extinct? This question has often been asked, and sometimes correctly answered. The greater causes are, of course, war, pestilence, and famine. These are positive agents of diminution or reduction; but, before entering into their discussion, it might be as well to state that for some reason or other the Indians, whether wild or half civilized, do not bring forth offspring as productively as the white races. This may be accounted for in a measure by the Indian mothers nursing their young for a much longer period than white women do. Still this cannot be the only reason. The power of procreation on the part of the male bears some proportion to the natural growth of the beard. The Indians, being deficient by nature in this appendage, thus bear out the general physiological law.
    I do not desire to be understood that all Indians are unable to raise beard, and that is the reason why we never see them with any; but do mean to assert that, if they were to cease plucking it out--as it is the custom, because they believe it a disgrace to have it--they could not produce, to the extent of the white man, this appendage, even though they so desired. This curious fact tends towards the support of the theory that they are nearly all a cross between a very dark and light race, being somewhat analogous in this respect to the amalgam of the Circassian and Ethiopian races. The negative cause, then, of a want of fruitful reproduction should be taken into account in estimating the reasons of the fast disappearance of this interesting people.
    Among the positive causes are the three just mentioned--war, pestilence, and famine. Their incessant struggles against encroachments of the whites are not, as many suppose, the main cause of their casualties in war; for, by far, the greater number perish from the internecine strifes among themselves, band against band, tribe against tribe, especially the stronger against the weaker, might being right in their moral or ethical code. These struggles have been rendered more unequal and bloody by certain tribes learning the use of the modern deadly weapons of warfare before their enemies knew of any other means of fighting than with the primitive bow and arrow. Famine has, also, had much to do in thinning the ranks of the red men.
    But, of all causes, pestilence has been, by all odds, the most destructive among them. Under this head smallpox takes the highest rank. In its successive onslaughts on these wretched people, it has swept them off by hundreds and thousands--in many instances almost exterminating entire tribes--as, for example, that nearly white, and worthy tribe, the Mandans, who once lived on the Upper Missouri River. The smallpox was introduced among them in the summer of 1838, by the fur traders, and in the short space of two months all of these Indians died, with the exception of about fifty, who were subsequently enslaved by their neighboring enemies, the Riccarees. Thus, also, on the Pacific Coast, in what was then called the Territory of Oregon, seven-eighths of the Indian population living west of the Cascade Mountains fell victims to this horrible disease between the years of 1829 and 1836.
    As startling as these facts are in regard to the fatal effects of this single scourge of the human race, it is not the only unseen enemy that is wont to carry dismay and death in the Indian camp. Whooping cough, scarlet fever, typhoid and typhus fevers, epidemic dysentery, and measles sometimes produce fearful havoc with this doomed race.
    It is now, and has always been, fashionable among a large class of even refined and educated people to sneer at the medical profession as moral lepers, who, sailing under a system of high-sounding names, suck the pecuniary life out of civilized communities without conferring any benefit. Many of them go so far as to compare the condition of the whites, who are most under the influence of wise hygienic rules, imparted by the medical profession from time to time, to that of the Indians, who, they believe, in their utter ignorance are the most healthful, because the least doctored, race on the face of the earth.
    For the benefit of such persons allow me to say that, after an experience of many years among our red and white brothers, I am fully convinced that it is mainly from the want of a practical knowledge of such principles as our noble science inculcates that the former suffer so much more than the latter from the ravages of disease. In time of health their modes of life in the open air, and their simple diet, conduce to robust health, as a general rule; though even here the want of a knowledge of certain plain hygienic laws frequently renders them the prey of disease. This is eminently the case in malarious districts of the great West and Southwest.
    When a permanent camp or a military post is about to be established anywhere in a malarious region, the medical officer seeks to have it located as far away from the low lands, river bottoms and marshes as the circumstances of the case will admit. If, however, a military necessity obliges the site to be adjacent to such unhealthy spots, the side towards the prevailing winds of spring and early autumn is always selected so that the malaria from those places may be wafted away from, instead of towards, the troops. The most elevated situation is also preferred, if it be to the windward of the marsh; but if to the leeward, never--unless it be so high that the winds, laden with the foul poison of the lowlands or marsh, cannot reach it; or there is no suitable place on the opposite side of the latter. The Indians, in their utter ignorance of these plain facts of medical hygiene, encamp wherever they can be most convenient to water, or the best sheltered from the storms. Some few of the bands or tribes will occasionally pitch their tents, or build their wigwams or lodges, on hills or elevated plateaux, but without regard to the location in reference to the winds and marshes. Hence, they are so often attacked by that unseen enemy, malaria, which creates more havoc in their ranks than all of their physical enemies combined.
    I often saw this fact demonstrated in the Southwest--especially among the roaming bands of Indians--both wild and half-civilized. Coming in from their summer campaign on the prairies, with the view of spending the autumn and winter near the United States military post, and pitching their camp somewhere to the leeward of the hotbeds of malaria, just alluded to, they would soon be prostrated with the various forms of malarious fevers--such as the intermittent, or fever and ague, the remittent, the pernicious, and later in the season, the winter fever; which is generally a combination of inflammation of the lungs, typhoid and malarious fevers. Aside from the utter inability of the Indian doctors to cure these diseases, it was very evident that their causes were more active among the Indians than with the soldiers in their vicinity; mainly because their "medicine men" are ages behind their paleface confreres in the knowledge of the principles and rules maintaining health.
    It will not answer to say that the cases are not analogous, for the reason that the troops are always so much better clothed, housed and fed than the poor Indians. Whilst admitting that the difference was not so marked as far as it regards malarial fevers when the troops were compelled to live in tents, which present a better resemblance than houses do to the Indian lodges, still it was always great.
    Food and clothing need not enter into the scale of comparison, because the Indians use those things which are as well adapted to their habits, in a healthy point of view, as Uncle Sam's rations and blue suits are to his soldiers. And as to the many deteriorating influences of health which the cravings of depraved appetites, or the proper duties of the two classes of persons now under consideration, produce, the prejudicial is mostly on the side of the soldiers, for whilst the Indians and the soldiers may suffer alike from the occasional use of bad whiskey, the night military duties of the latter, such as being on guard, etc., expose them to the influence of malaria at a time when its poisonous effects are the most powerful; whereas the former never keep up a night watch except on occasion of danger from foes.
    I might mention many other instances where the ignorance of the most common precepts of that domain of the medical science which treats of the prevention of disease caused much sickness among the Indians; but, in order not to be tedious, shall pass it over, and shall simply state that, however deficient their skill may be in the preservation of health, it is still far more so in the means of its restoration. They are entirely ignorant, for instance, of any remedy for malarious fevers, possessing the least virtue. When the poor creatures in the vicinity of the post where I happened to be stationed, especially at Fort Arbuckle, learned, by sad experience, that but few soldiers died from the same sickness that was decimating them, they became importunate for medicine from the soldiers' doctor. Of course, where I could get them to follow my directions, aid was freely rendered.
    In fearful epidemics among red men, they almost always imagine either that they have been poisoned, or that some medicine man has cast a dreadful spell over them. Laboring under this infatuation they are, if not old residents of Indian reservations, where they in time learn better, generally shy of the paleface doctor, and can rarely be induced to take his medicine properly. Their "medicine men" depend mainly on incantations in the cure of disease, as well as in diverting any impending calamity. Yet the doctors of many bands use a kind of sweat-house, where they place the patient until the skin is almost scalded off his body, and then plunge him into the nearest stream of water, the colder the better, according to their notions. This treatment is adopted in epidemics of whooping-cough, scarlet fever, measles and smallpox, and generally with the most appalling results.
    The educated white doctor uses a somewhat analogous treatment, under the name of Russian baths, for a few diseases, but never for the complaints above mentioned. Hence, again, the benefit of true medical knowledge to mankind, instead of the injurious substitutes of the poor, untutored savage, and the no less hurtful and unscrupulous nostrums of the charlatan, or mountebank, who stands on our street corners and with blatant mouth and oily tongue discourses upon the so-called virtues of his wonderful medicine, beguiling thousands of people, who place confidence in his miserable falsehoods and poisonous quack compounds.
    The foregoing remarks in regard to the Indians in the vicinity of Fort Arbuckle, Indian Territory, are not intended to apply to the half-civilized Choctaws and Chickasaws, yet even these people were, at the time of my sojourn on their western border, many generations behind the present in medical knowledge. Occasionally a broken-down white educated physician would immigrate to their country, marry a squaw, and settle down to the practice of his profession; but, as a general rule, these people had to depend in sickness, except when near a military post, on the so-called doctors among themselves, who know little or nothing of the true principles of medicine, and that little being the cast-off garments of the old-time practice of the regular profession, when blood-letting was considered the sine qua non in almost all diseases.
    Like Dr. Sangrado, they would draw forth the life-current from a patient until his pale lips and flickering pulse would denote imminent danger of dissolution if further loss of blood were permitted. This practice, too, they would adopt in even the lowest types of the disease, such as typhoid, typhus and winter fevers. No wonder that the mortality from these diseases was often fearfully great.
    At an early period of my residence in their country, I tried to inculcate the necessity of an entirely different plan of treatment in these low forms of disease, but without any encouraging results except in my own practice, which was confined to the neighborhood of the garrison, where there were but few settlers of any kind.
    In my journal are descriptions of the modes of practice in common use among the Indians on the coast of Oregon.
    For some time subsequent to their removal to the reservation they gave the white physicians much annoyance by coming for medicine only on issue or ration day, and then by taking it in a most irregular and careless manner. Very soon they generally refused to take medicine from the regularly appointed Indian physician, and sought the professional aid of myself at Fort Yamhill. Although I attended to their medical wants a great deal, and, of course, lost a patient occasionally, they never tried to harm me in the least; but when one of their own doctors failed to cure his patient, and proved unable or unwilling to pay for him in the event of his decease, they often put him to death. This practice was, after much trouble, finally abandoned, because the military authorities interfered. In surgical cases they bore pain with a wonderful degree of stoicism.
    During my sojourn at Fort Yamhill I often had occasion to dress their wounds and perform upon them surgical operations. In one instance I amputated the thigh of an intelligent Indian chief, by the name of Santiam Sampson. The Indian "medicine men," who are great humbugs and very jealous of white physicians, at first predicted his death; but after his convalescence had been firmly established, they devised a cunning scheme to gain a bogus reputation for themselves, and at the same time make a little raise in a financial way. Accordingly, they informed Sampson's wife that her husband would surely die unless she paid them handsomely to "mammuck medicine" for his recovery. The superstitious woman gave the scoundrels all of the chief's blankets, horses and other chattels, for their promised efforts in restoring him to health again. The following few nights were rendered hideous by the horrid screams and yells of these mountebanks, at a distance of two miles from where the sick man lay in hospital, unconscious of the herculean efforts that were being made by them in his behalf. At the termination of their incantations, Mrs. Sampson was informed that the evil spirit had been appeased, and that her husband would soon get well, whereupon the affectionate woman hurried to the sick couch to impart the glad tidings to her spouse. She was amazed to find that, instead of his receiving the news with a heart overflowing with gratitude for the wonderful things that had been done for his benefit by a doting wife and wise medicine men, he seized a cudgel and commenced to beat her most unmercifully for allowing the Indian charlatans to deceive her. The hospital steward, hearing the uproar, hastened to release the poor squaw from the clutches of her enraged husband. I reported the circumstance to the commanding officer and Indian agent, who promptly made the Indian knaves restore to Sampson all his goods and chattels.
    The term "mammuck medicine," as used by these Indians, literally signifies to make a mystery, the first word meaning to make, and the second anything that is mysterious or incomprehensible.
    The words "medicine" and "medicine man" are used in the Northwest on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, the former being derived from the French word medecin, a physician or doctor. It was introduced by the French fur traders, and adopted by the Hudson Bay Company in the compilation of the "jargon," so universally used by the red men of the Northwest Coast.
    The term "medicine man" means a little more than a doctor or physician; yet the latter is a medicine man, because he deals more or less in mysteries and charms in the practice of his profession. Still, among some of the tribes on the Pacific Coast, and in the Northwest, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, there are "medicine men" who deal only in miracles and other mysteries, having nothing whatever to do in curing the sick. Anything the Indian sees that is incomprehensible to him he calls "medicine," and any professional person among the whites, practicing an art the former does not understand, is called a "medicine man."

    During my sojourn in the army, there were very few commissioned officers who were not educated gentlemen. They were mostly eleves [students] of the West Point Military Academy, with the exception of the medical staff, who, besides being graduates of respectable colleges, had to stand, prior to appointment, the most rigid of all examinations before medical boards, composed of such army surgeons as possessed the greatest experience and acquirements in their profession and the sciences generally. The varied experiences of the older officers in all phases of society, and in every part of our wide extended country, and sometimes in foreign travel, rendered them always entertaining. Even the brevet second lieutenant, fresh from West Point, usually possessed an inexhaustible budget of anecdotes of that classical institution, and of the many flirtations he had experienced with the fair damsel visitors, who love so well to play the coquette with the gallant cadet or lieutenant. Although these young gentlemen fall deeply in love with almost every charming young lady whom they may chance to meet, they rarely come to garrison with a bride, for the plain reason that their pay is insufficient to support a wife; and the girls who have rich papas do not care to exile themselves at some distant frontier post, where they can only hear the fife and drum or, at most, a brass band, instead of choice music at the opera. Yet, occasionally, one of these gay butterflies is caught by a dashing son of Mars; and, sometimes, after a few parting tears at the shrine of fashionable frivolities, settles down in domestic life in garrison as happily as though she had been to the manor born.
    Officers, however, do not commonly seek to mate with mere ballroom belles, but select women for their social, intellectual, and moral accomplishments. Hence, at posts near our large cities, or in the West, not too remote from civilization, or even on the frontier, when the garrisons are large, there is often to be found as select a society of ladies and gentlemen as at any other place. But, at forts in the center of the wild Indian country there are few, if any, ladies to soften and charm the asperities of military life.
    Under such circumstances there can, of course, be no social hops or parties to beguile dull care; no delightful drives or rides over the beautiful prairies, or fishing excursions along the charming hillside streams, accompanied by the merry laugh of God's greatest and best gift to man. After one has been for a long time thus deprived of ladies' society, he loses all power of just comparison of the relative charms of women and, in some cases, falls in love with females altogether beneath him in social position.
    When an officer thus circumstanced becomes married to an inferior person, as is sometimes the case, he commits an offense toward army society that is rarely forgiven; for the social code of ethics in garrison life is that, as all commissioned officers and their families are really but one military brotherhood, no member of the coterie has any right to thrust upon them any uncongenial companion.
    A highly accomplished young lieutenant of my acquaintance, who was stationed at a neighboring post to Fort Arbuckle, fell in love with and married an unpolished beauty, residing at the village in his vicinity, against the protests of his most intimate friends. When he found that it was impossible for his bride to maintain her position in the society of the garrison, although the ladies were liberally disposed towards her on account of her husband, he finally concluded to send her east to receive an educational and social polish.
    The black sheep in military society are the officers and their families who have been promoted from the ranks. Their generally unrefined, uncultivated and uncongenial manners make them unwelcome members of the army circle. If they are sensibly disposed, however, these little incongruities gradually wear away. On the other hand, should the newcomers, instead of trying to adapt themselves to their new sphere in society, become churlish, they are treated by the other members of the garrison as intruders. Army society is essentially aristocratic.
    There is a sharp line of demarcation drawn between all commissioned and noncommissioned officers. The latter may associate with the men or private soldiers, but never with the former. The wives of the private soldiers and noncommissioned officers are denominated camp women. There is a limited number of them allowed to each company. They act as hospital and company laundresses. There are frequently many intelligent men in the ranks. All trades and professions are sometimes represented. Even editors, doctors, and lawyers, occasionally, in a paroxysm of disgust, enlist in the army. Such men, being in the wrong element, very often cause disturbances--especially the members of the law--who are famous for breeding misunderstandings among all with whom their lot is cast. Of course this remark is not applicable to the better class of that noble profession. Many of the rank and file are educated foreigners, who, being poor, enter the service for a livelihood until they can learn the English language. There being such a medley of characters among the private soldiers, their resources for diversions, when not on duty, in the way of games, plays, theatrical displays, parties, concerts, debating societies, etc., are almost inexhaustible, even at stations far from the verge of civilization.
    The commissioned officers at these out-of-the-way posts have no such varieties of amusement. When off duty they can ride out for pleasure, go a-hunting or fishing, or remain at home to read the latest news from the States, or some interesting book, or take a social game at cards--gambling being prohibited by the army regulations. Some commanding officers are very lenient about enforcing the gambling clause in the latter. Others will permit no deviation from the letter of the law. Although playing for money by a few of the officers may have been carried on privately, without my knowledge, at all of the posts where I have been stationed, yet I never saw any of it except after the Rogue River Indian campaign of 1856.
    The war being over; the paymaster having disbursed several months' pay to the command; there being no chance for the officers to get away for some time, owing to the non-arrival of the steamer; and the place insufferably dull, a few games of poker, brag and seven-up were tolerated by the colonel commanding, who, under other circumstances, was a perfect martinet in discipline. My sleeping apartment being adjoining the room in which the so-called amusement was in full blast, I can testify as to its being conducted with perfect decorum. The losers appeared to stand their ill luck with a good deal of stoicism until the last night of the play, when a certain quartermaster made an onslaught upon the pile, and swept the table as clean as though done by a new broom. He was very popular with the officers on his first arrival, but this brilliant coup d'etat seemed to lower him in their estimation. For on his departure to San Francisco on the steamer, some of them were heard to say that this gentleman was only a spectator of the play until he had acquired an insight into the peculiar method of each player, when his victory was necessarily easy and complete. Although sympathizing with these unfortunate gentlemen, I could not help thinking that their loss was a just punishment for dabbling in such questionable amusement. Social games of chess and cards are probably oftener resorted to in garrison than in civil life, to while away the time. At Old Camp, and subsequently at Fort Arbuckle, euchre, whist and brag were the most popular of these pastimes. No betting was allowed. In lieu of money we used circular pieces of gun wadding. The playing was generally done at the quartermaster's room, but on one occasion, whilst Mrs. R. B. Marcy was at the old camp, the officers, together with her husband, proposed to play a joke upon this estimable lady by pretending to gamble in earnest, the programme being to adjourn to the captain's quarters with a shot-bag full of quartermaster's money, and commence a game of brag, with big "antes," "I double you," etc. Although one of the conspirators against her peace of mind, I could not withstand the poor woman's look of utter amazement when we began our cruel joke, so I immediately turned state's evidence by making a full confession. Our intended joke was one of those thoughtless things that most men are sometimes led into, without thinking of the consequences.
    The use of ardent spirits, in some degree, is very common in the service. My temperate habits revolted at this feature of military life more than at any other. Although fond of the taste of liquor I can hardly tell one kind from another, and have from principle alone abstained from its use all my life. Neither have I ever smoked or chewed tobacco, or dissipated in any form. Consequently I have been considered by a few of my army comrades as unsociable. But the great majority of them always respected me the more for my steady habits, even though they once in a while took a social glass.
    A remarkable result of my temperate life has been an almost perfect freedom from sickness, from my earliest boyhood up to the present time, notwithstanding I was the most delicate child of my father's family, and have been exposed to all kinds of diseases, in every variety of climate, and at places where every officer and private soldier of the garrison, and resident in the vicinity, would be stricken down several times a year with some form of malarial fever.
    Many persons drank in summer to prevent infections of the bowels; in winter to keep from catching cold; in the spring and autumn to keep off the chills; at night to counteract the effects of the damp and malarial atmosphere; and were often sick. I drank not at all and, under Providence, was always at my post of duty. It will not do to reply that my case is exceptional. The common experience of physicians, who are not so addicted to the use of spirituous liquors themselves as to render them partial and prejudiced observers, will attest the fact that intemperance predisposes to all kinds of sickness. This being so, moderate drinking, as it generally leads to the too free use of liquor, should be discarded, even though it occasionally answers a good purpose. The temporary good is nearly always transitory, and followed by permanent evil. Spirituous liquors, being only a stimulant, can impart nothing permanent to the vital forces. Just in proportion to the momentary intensification of force that it gives to the system, must be the subsequent depression and abstraction of force from the person using it.
    There are a few cases in medical and surgical practice where it is useful; but there being an abundance of medical substitutes, alcohol could be easily banished from the pharmacopoeia without impairing in the least the doctor's power of controlling disease. The habit among a large class of the medical profession of advising, in almost all cases, the use of liquor to their patients in health and disease, is helping to fill the land with a host of intemperate men and women. If these gentlemen could only foresee the vast amount of human wretchedness that follows as the inevitable sequences of their actions, they would shudder at the fearful responsibility they are assuming. Oh, the lamentable wrecks of the brightest intellects from the use of this bane of the human race!
    In whatever land, city or village we go may be found mournful examples of the blighting influence of alcohol. It fills our hospitals, almshouses and prisons, and costs the sober, industrious taxpayers of the country millions upon millions of dollars. The expense is a trifling consideration in comparison with the misery that the use of alcoholic stimulants engenders.
    In the face of these facts, it seems incomprehensible that Christian people should even tolerate, as a few of them do, the use of wine at their social gatherings. It is there, rather than at saloons, that our sons and daughters generally first learn the downward way to ruin. The advocates of strong drink quote the Bible as allowing the temperate use of wine--especially the recommendation of St. Paul, to take a little wine for his stomach's sake. But, then, the latter was somewhat of an invalid, and there may have been, in those days, no proper medicinal substitute. On the other hand, the Proverbs say: "Wine is a mocker; strong drink is raging, and whosoever is deceived thereby is not wise." Again, "Look not upon the wine when it is red, when it giveth its color in the cup, when it moveth itself aright; at the last it biteth like a serpent and stingeth like an adder." In Leviticus the following injunction is given to the priesthood: "Do not drink wine nor strong drink, thou, nor thy sons with thee, when ye go into the tabernacle of the congregation, lest ye die; it shall be a statute forever throughout your generations." In another place, the Bible says that "It is good neither to eat flesh, nor to drink wine, nor anything whereby thy brother stumbleth, or is offended, or is made weak." If the Bible had been written nowadays, when wine is associated with so many stronger and baser compounds, it is probable that its prohibitions would have been more absolute.
    Some people consider their friends unsociable if they decline to partake of a social glass. A gallant and promising young lieutenant of the army once evinced a great prejudice towards me because of my temperance principles. About ten years thereafter, a ragged man, with a red, bloated face, came into my office at Portland, Oregon, and asked me whether I had forgotten him. After a few minutes scrutiny, I recognized him as the officer alluded to above--but, oh, how changed! I almost wept for the unfortunate man. Having provided for his immediate wants, I requested him to call again in the morning. In the meantime, I learned from an officer of the army that this poor wreck of his former self had obtained, during the rebellion, the command of a regiment of volunteers; but, owing to his dissipated habits, was dismissed from the service. He then enlisted as a private soldier; but was soon court-martialed for drunkenness, after which he deserted. Subsequently re-enlisted and deserted again; that the officers of his regiment did not care to have him taken back, as he had become an intolerable nuisance.
    On learning these particulars, and ascertaining that he desired to seek employment as a clerk in the Quartermaster's Department, in San Francisco, under an officer who knew him as a lieutenant, I furnished him with a suit of clothes, and paid his passage on the steamer, obtaining from him a solemn promise never to drink any more. any more. I have not seen him since then; but have been told that he has kept his promise, and is now an honored professor in an eastern college. Examples of this nature, excepting the reformation, are unfortunately too common both in and out of the army.
    Whilst stationed at Fort Yamhill, the lamented Captain O. H. P. Taylor, who was subsequently killed in Colonel Steptoe's engagement with the Indians, and myself, became somewhat noted total abstinence men; so, of course, any little joke in that line that could be manufactured at our expense was in order. Accordingly, Lieutenant Bob Macfeely, the reputed joker of the Fourth Infantry, being at a reunion of the officers at Fort Vancouver, and learning that one of the lieutenants present, who was known to be a great toper, was en route for Fort Yamhill to join his company, in a kind and confidential tone--loud enough, however, to be heard and duly appreciated by the whole company--told him that he would find the officers at his new post very temperate men, except Captain Taylor and Doctor Glisan, who were the hardest drinkers on the coast. The lieutenant arrived at the post fully impressed with the idea that he would soon be under the necessity of placing us both under arrest for drunkenness.
    The hardships and privations of military men have a great tendency towards cultivating habits of intemperance. Many of them are shut out for months and years from all restraining influences of a social, moral, and religious character.
    The majority of the frontier posts have no chaplains, so that an officer, unless very firmly rooted in Christian principles, forgets even the prayers taught him in childhood, as did a certain military gentleman who, on one occasion, was strolling through a canebrake, near Fort Smith, when his pathway being obstructed by a log, he nimbly bounded over the same and suddenly found himself face to face with a huge bear. Having no weapons, and fearing to budge an inch, he concluded to try the efficacy of prayer--like our modern female temperance crusaders--but, unlike them, he had forgotten how to pray. Luckily a petition taught him by his mother came to his relief. So, standing bolt upright, and keeping his vigilant eyes piously turned towards bruin, he said:
As he lived many years thereafter, it is presumed that the bear did not disturb his slumbers.
    The favorite stations of young officers who disliked frontier duty, and were fond of fashionable society, were those near the large cities--as Jefferson Barracks, in the vicinity of St. Louis, Newport Barracks, opposite Cincinnati, and Fort McHenry, near Baltimore. These were famous army places, where they had the entree of the gayest and most fashionable circles, and could attend parties to their hearts' content, and were not expected to return the compliment, except on rare occasions, when each officer would be assessed to the amount of several months' pay to sustain the dignity of the army, in a grand military ball. All officers, but the juniors of the medical corps, could occasionally enjoy the luxury of society in and near these civilized stations. As members of this department did not belong permanently to any regiment or garrison, but were liable for duty any and everywhere in the army, it gradually became a custom to send those recently appointed to the most distant and out-of-the-way posts, reserving the pleasant places for the older surgeons.
    Army officers rarely have an opportunity of educating their children, except by sending them to boarding schools at a great distance, the mothers frequently accompanying them as their most natural protectors; so that the husband or father is often deprived of the society of his family, even when stationed at posts not too remote or isolated for their presence. Few persons can endure this sort of life very long; hence a desire and expectation among many officers to resign when they can save enough to start them in some civil employment. This day rarely comes; for, no matter how much an officer may save whilst economizing in the far-off Indian country, where there is no chance to spend his salary, a few months' leave of absence, if a bachelor, or the heavy drafts on his purse by wife and children, if married, generally succeed in keeping him a dependent on Uncle Sam's rations and money until his head is gray. Besides, the longer an officer remains in the service, the more pay and rank he receives, and the less fitted he becomes for the drudgery of civil life. The love of command, which is inherent in his very nature, also grows stronger and stronger, and he cannot reconcile himself to occupy a subordinate position in the social world, where his hard-earned title of captain or major would be eclipsed by every tenth man to be met on the streets of our large cities.
    Let any person try the experiment of calling out "halloo, colonel!" in a loud voice in a large crowd, assembled for any purpose in our cities, and he will be surprised at the number of responses. Hence, military men of any rank in the army soon acquire a dislike and dread of having their modest titles overshadowed by the higher-sounding ones of colonel and general, so common among the militia.
    There is another class of army officers, who care nothing for the comforts of home life, or of society, but who delight in roughing it on the frontier, far away from the restraints of civilization. These men are never so happy as when in the excitement of the chase, or in pursuit of a band of fleeing, horse-thieving, prairie Indians. Out of such material are our great Indian fighters made. The number of this class is very small. The duties of line officers are generally far more arduous than those of the staff corps, the Medical Department excepted. Officers of the Subsistence and Quartermaster's Departments have the easiest and most comfortable positions in the service. They are generally stationed in the large cities at the headquarters of the various military divisions and departments. The duties appertaining to these departments are conducted at frontier stations, and other distant and isolated places, by a class of officers known as acting assistant commissaries or quartermasters, being generally lieutenants of the line, and receiving a small additional pay for doing staff duty.
    Our present lieutenant general, for instance, served as acting assistant commissary and quartermaster at Fort Yamhill, in Oregon, from 1857 to 1861. Little did the then-lieutenant dream, when on one occasion he confined in the guard-house of that post an old fellow by the name of Tharpe, for peddling vegetables on the reservation contrary to post regulations, that he would so soon acquire even a much higher title than old Tharpe derisively gave him, of Colonel Sheridan. Officers belonging to the Adjutant Generals, Judge Advocate's, Inspector General's, Ordnance and Pay Departments, being stationed at the headquarters of the army, military divisions and departments, are generally well provided for in the way of home comforts and opportunities of enjoying society. On the other hand, officers of the line and Medical Department, during the first half of army life, are usually stationed at out-of-the-way frontier posts, and have, as before stated, to depend mainly on their own resources for society. This is particularly the case with infantry and cavalry officers; those of the artillery often occupy fortifications on the seaboard and are, consequently, nearer civilization than their brethren of the other two arms of the service. A certain proportion, however, of the officers of these three corps are detailed in regular order on the recruiting service, and thereby have an opportunity of spending a few years in the large cities, where the stations for enlistments commonly are. If a bachelor is detailed for this duty, he generally returns to his regiment with a recruit who has not been required to pass the ordeal of an army regulation examination, by whose kind assistance he is enabled, in due course of time, to muster a little home infantry company of his own.
    A medical officer has no such opportunities, but must remain in single blessedness all the early years of his service, or choose a wife from among the few female visitors of the married officers' families. Young medical officers are usually more able to support a wife than the juniors of the line, because they are rarely stationed at places, however remote from civilization, that they do not have more or less private practice. Jealous civil physicians have occasionally remonstrated against the army doctors practicing outside of the garrison, but without avail, because it is considered that the latter are all the more able to attend to their official duties by a little extra experience from outside practice, than though they confined their professional calls to the inmates of the garrison. Besides, if this indulgence were not allowed, the best men in the medical corps would resign, rather than depend on the pay allowed them by the government. Even as it is, many of the most energetic of them throw up their commissions after a few years' isolation on the frontier, and try their luck in private life.
    A law of Congress, passed, I believe, in 1866, stopped all new appointments, and all promotions in the Medical Department of the army, the consequence being that there is now a large deficiency of medical officers. There is no economy in this law; as a large number of contract physicians have to be employed as substitutes for the regular army surgeons, to the detriment of the service, and the injury of one of the most efficient and scientific corps in the army.
    By reference to the first pages of my journal, it will be found how severe an ordeal the candidate for appointment in the medical corps has to undergo; but no such requirements are demanded of the contract doctor, who may be, and generally is, an inexperienced and unsuccessful physician.
    Positions in the staff departments are much sought after by young line officers. Not solely, however, on account of the social advantages designated, but because, if only having the rank of lieutenant, they thus become promoted to at least a captaincy, except in the corps of Engineers and Ordnance Departments, where there are as low grades of rank as in the line. The two former corps are generally filled by the graduates of the West Point Military Academy, who stand near the head of the class. I believe there is not a single civil appointment in the corps of engineers. There is a vast change in this respect in the rest of the army organization within the last few years, formerly there being few officers who were not West Pointers.
    The reason of this is that the late Civil War has developed a large number of excellent officers, who, having had a taste of the peculiar excitement of military life, are unwilling to return to the more quiet condition of civil pursuits. It is proper that the government, in justice to these gallant men, should avail itself of their services. But let not the fatal error be committed of appointing all such applicants, regardless of the many attributes that appertain to the conscientious and intelligent officer, or the mere fact of a person holding a commission in the regular army will no longer be a passport to the society of gentlemen, as has heretofore been the case.
    Although all officers of the army are presumed to be educated gentlemen, especially if eleves of West Point, yet there are five corps--the engineer, ordnance, adjutant general, military justice and medical--that bear the same relation to the other corps that Boston does to the other large cities in the Union, in an intellectual and scientific point of view.
    If a young man has high military, with ultimate political aspirations, he had better serve in the line, although at first the duties are more arduous, and promotion slower; for renowned generals and future United States Presidents never come from the staff corps, no matter how the latter may distinguish themselves on the field of battle. Many of our successful and renowned generals owe much, and some of them all, of their success and fame to a staff of scientific and brave subordinate officers.
    If a young officer is full of dash, and loves a rough, active life in the saddle, he should enter one of the cavalry regiments. For even in the so-called times of peace he will find almost continued demands for his services on our western frontier, until the last of those nomads of the prairies shall have passed to their hunting grounds beyond the setting sun. This corps was formerly called dragoons. About the year 1850 there were also several regiments of mounted riflemen and mounted infantry. Like all other things where too much is combined in one, a failure is necessarily the result. Our men cannot become at one and the same time good infantry and effective cavalry soldiers in the short period of one enlistment, for many reasons, one of the most important of which is the length of time required to teach them how to ride. The olden-time mounted infantry used to be a laughingstock to their more experienced comrades of the dragoons or cavalry.
    Having elsewhere remarked at length upon the folly of our government in some of its economical paroxysms, trying to make the army almost self-supporting, and yet requiring military impossibilities of it in the way of efficiency in every branch of service, I shall simply conclude this part of my subject by quoting the defense once made by an old soldier, who was on trial for drunkenness, that "Uncle Sam ought not to expect all the cardinal virtues for eight dollars a month."
    Army officers in their intercourse with each other are punctiliously considerate and polite, and avoid, as much as possible, bickerings and quarrels. They rarely have feuds so serious that the interposition of mutual friends cannot heal. When such means fail to bring about a reconciliation, sometimes a court of inquiry or court-martial is resorted to in order to rectify the difficulty. The old practice of settling disputes by a duel is almost entirely abolished.
    According to the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth articles of war, any officer sending or accepting a challenge to fight a duel, or any second, promoter or carrier of the same must be tried by a court-martial, and, if found guilty, cashiered--that is, dismissed from the service, and prohibited from ever holding any office of trust thereafter under the government.
    Partially owing to this military law, but far more still to public opinion, which is becoming in most enlightened communities nearly unanimously opposed to dueling, the practice is rarely indulged in by officers of the army. Still, the tendency to settle disputes in this way was strong up to within the last twenty years. No matter how firmly one might be opposed on principle to the practice, he would occasionally find himself forced into this senseless and brutal method of adjustment.
    Once I found myself almost in this sad predicament, and never understood precisely what happy combination of circumstances afforded me a relief. There was stationed at Fort Arbuckle, at the same time I was, a Lieutenant H., who had been promoted from the ranks for gallant services during the Mexican War. He was very quarrelsome, especially when under the influence of liquor, which was by no means a rare occurrence. When intoxicated, he was the terror of the regiment, and of all who came in contact with him. Of course the commonest dictates of prudence caused officers to avoid wrangling with him under such circumstances. It became necessary to send to a great distance to procure a little brandy for medical purposes, as the hospital supply had been exhausted. Unfortunately, the lieutenant heard of its arrival before anybody else, and drank it all up. The sick being greatly in need of something of the kind, I, of course, felt very much annoyed, and could have preferred charges against him, which might have resulted in his dismissal, but concluded to take no notice of the matter, either socially or officially.
    Shortly after this, whilst the officers and some guests from Fort Smith were at the mess table, the lieutenant alluded to the brandy affair in such a taunting way that I became very indignant, and used language which he deemed insulting. His first impulse seemed to be to hurl a coffee cup at my head; but, changing his mind, he abruptly left the table. When breakfast was over, I retired to my quarters in company with Lieutenant C., who was rooming with me. In a few minutes H. appeared, and, with a stern demeanor, remarked:
    "So you have dared to insult me."
    "Your conduct left me no alternative," was my reply; whereupon Lieutenant C. stepped forward and said:
    "Gentlemen, I place you both under arrest," and persuaded H. to go to his quarters, where he was kept until duly sober, he having been drinking a little. To my surprise and delight no further notice was taken of the matter, except that we did not speak to each other for some time. It was always incomprehensible to me how I got out of the difficulty. It certainly was not on account of any personal fear, or dread of being court-martialed, on the part of Lieutenant H., for a more recklessly brave man never lived. I suspect that when he sobered off the other officers must have convinced him of being in the wrong, and persuaded him into a generous mood. Our coolness lasted about three months, when we were reconciled in rather a singular way.
    One day I had my horse side-lined, with the view of teaching him to pace. Whilst going around in a circle in a corral, with his hind and fore leg connected by a rope on each side, a little stick, on which he tramped, flew up, and, striking him on the belly, so alarmed him, that he broke out of the pen and escaped into the thicket. As I was about starting in pursuit, Lieutenant H. came galloping up with the runaway animal. Expressing my gratitude for his kindness, we made friends.
    Sometime subsequently he left Fort Arbuckle for Fort Gibson, where he had been only a little while when he insulted a young officer, by throwing a glass of liquor in his face, because he declined to drink with him. The other officers of the regiment advised the insulted officer to prefer charges against the delinquent for conduct unbecoming an officer and a gentleman, as the best means of "weeding" him out of the service. In due course of time his trial came off, and he was sentenced to be dismissed. On the proceedings reaching Washington for the action of the Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, he failed to approve them, for the assigned reason that the conduct of Lieutenant H. [apparently Thomas Henry] was not, in his opinion, unbecoming an officer and a gentleman. How much longer the said lieutenant remained in the army, I do not know, but understood that he subsequently resigned, to accept a colonelcy under the filibuster, General Walker, in his attempt to subjugate Nicaragua.
    In the early history of the army there was a time when staff officers possessed only assimilative, instead of real, rank. This invidious distinction between the line and staff was found, by experience, to work a great hardship upon a very meritorious class of officers, and was having the effect of driving the best of them out of the service. The members of the medical corps, from serving more constantly with the line than any other staff officers, had to stand the brunt of this unjust discrimination. It frequently happened that highly educated gentlemen, who had grown gray in the service of their country, were placed on mixed boards and councils in a subordinate position to young brevet second lieutenants. In one instance, the veteran surgeon, Hammond, was a member of a court-martial of which his son, fresh from West Point, was president. The wonder is that such an outrage should have been tolerated so long. Justice finally prevailed by Congress giving the staff corps bona fide rank.
    On entering the service, in 1850, I found, that most of these vexatious questions in regard to rank had been settled. Still, there was a lingering indisposition on the part of line officers to recognize this comparatively new order of things; although they dared not depart from the letter, still, where opportunity offered, they would evade the spirit of the law. For instance, in detailing the members of a court-martial, a medical officer was generally designated as Judge Advocate, who, not being considered a real member of the court, could not claim precedence over any other officer. As, however, the position of Judge Advocate, especially of a general court-martial, was considered a very honorable, though laborious one, the doctors always yielded to the force of circumstance with a good grace.
    There was one question, in regard to staff rank, that remained for a long time unsettled. It was as to whether a staff officer, by virtue of his rank, was entitled to the command of a post, or army in the field, when he chanced to be the senior present on duty. Medical officers were very conciliatory on this point, and were loath to force an issue upon it. Members of the other staff corps felt unwilling to concede any of their supposed rights under the law, so that the War Department was finally compelled to give a decision upon the subject; which, so far as it affected the medical corps, was that its members might claim precedence according to rank in the selection of quarters, on councils of administration, boards of survey, court-martial, and all mixed boards, but were not entitled to the command of a post, or an army, except in the absence of all commissioned officers of the line. This ruling holds good up to the present day. Until this vexed question was settled, many methods were adopted by officers of the line to bring about a decision upon it. It is related that Captain Braxton Bragg, of "a few more grape" celebrity, chanced, at one time, to be the commanding officer and acting assistant quartermaster of a certain post. In order to test the question, Bragg, the commandant, ordered Bragg, the quartermaster, to perform a particular duty. The latter disobeying, the former placed him under arrest. The case was appealed to the Secretary of War, who decided that it was an unnecessary difficulty between the two gentlemen, and added a severe reprimand.

    As an unusual interest is being taken by many of our own people, as well as foreign immigrants, in the great Southwest, and the new Northwest, of our extensive country, it may be worthwhile to summarize a few of the observations incidentally made whilst sojourning in these two sections of the United States. In so doing it will be necessary to restate some of the facts found scattered in various parts of this journal.
    Whilst each of the two districts possesses attractions peculiar to itself, there is hardly anything in common, either in topography, climate, productions or diseases. One is a rolling plain, with few elevations deserving the appellation of hills or mountains, the other possessing some of the finest mountain scenery in the known world.
The one has sluggish rivulets and rivers that wearily plod their way beneath an almost tropical sun, sometimes burrowing themselves, like the Canadian, beneath their own sandy bottoms; except at certain seasons, when, swollen by recent rains, or melting snows, from along the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, they dash madly along, overflowing their low banks for miles on each side. The other having streams and noble rivers fresh from the mountains, so cool and pure that it would seem almost impossible for a country through which they take their sprightly courses to be otherwise than healthful.
    Summer in the Southwest is characterized by a hot, enervating atmosphere, that creates an indisposition to mental or physical labor.
    That portion of the Northwest Coast west of the Cascade Range of mountains has at this season a dry and refreshingly cool atmosphere, the temperature lowering as the Pacific Ocean is approached.
    The balmy zephyrs of the first are laden in the spring and autumn with malaria, that manifests its deleterious influence upon the human system in various forms of fevers. The refreshing winds of the second come from the ocean, as pure as the mountain streams which they meet and embrace. Even east of the Cascade Range, where the temperature is much warmer in summer than it is west of the same, the air is so dry in summer that few suffer from the heat. There is no sultry weather on the Northwest Coast.
    The winters in the Southwest are generally mild and pleasant, with an occasional snow storm in the Indian Territory and northern portion of Texas. The same season in Oregon and Washington is as diversified as possible. Immediately along the coast the temperature is rarely below the freezing point--the rains are heavy and frequent. On the Coast Mountains there is deep snow. In the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue River valleys, between the coast and Cascade Range of mountains, there is much rain, with occasional snow storms, the snow melting as fast as it falls, excepting on rare occasions, when it becomes so deep that the farmers, who rarely provide much provender for their stock, are utterly astonished, and sometimes ruined by the loss of their animals. A few such examples during the last twenty-three years have at last made this industrious, but heretofore somewhat shiftless, class of the Oregon population aware that it is true economy to lay up a supply of straw, hay, oats and corn, and build shelters for their cattle, sheep and horses, even though it might not be needed for several successive years.
    The Cascade Range is, of course, whitened with snow for six months in the year; and its lofty peaks, like the Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier, are draped in perpetual white. 'Tis a most refreshing sight to stand on some elevated point in the Willamette Valley, on a warm summer day, and gaze upon these lovely mountains, hoary with the frosts of so many years. There they have stood for centuries, watching the progress of civilization as westward it marched along until its vanguard has reached the utmost western limits of the American Continent. Oh, how many bloody struggles they have witnessed between the red men of the forest and the white men of the east--yea, and of internecine war among the Indians themselves.
    Mount Hood looms up in rugged, awful grandeur, whilst his bride (Mount St. Helens), stands serenely above the fringe of evergreens, symmetrical and lovely as on the day she plighted her love. Why they are so cool toward each other, no one has ever dared to inquire. Their quarrel must have been fearfully unrelenting, as the Three Sisters, who were bridesmaids, have never been able to effect a reconciliation; neither have the more, austere groomsmen, Mounts Jefferson, Adams and Rainier.
    It is only within a few years that the latter mountain, of Washington Territory, has been recognized as higher than the majestic Mount Hood, of Oregon, and the sublime Mount Shasta, of California, its height being fourteen thousand four hundred and forty-four feet. Only a glimpse of this magnificent mountain can be had from the usual courses of travel in the Willamette Valley, and along the Columbia River, as its view is partially obstructed by St. Helens. Yet now that we have a railroad to the Sound, tourists will have no excuse hereafter in slighting this sublime wonder of the natural world.
    The day is not distant when Rainier and Hood will be selected as national signal stations, from whose lofty summits signal officers will be able to scan the broad Pacific on the west, and note the approach of foreign enemies, or observe the condition of the thousands upon thousands of vessels belonging to the merchant marine and the navy of all nations of the civilized globe, passing hither and thither, to and from the great seaports now springing up on this favored coast; and of watching on the east, north and south, the long railroad trains as they skim over the surface of this continent. Or grander still, they will be great entrepots, as well as points of observation, for the future improved methods of travel and commercial intercourse, in the way of aerial cars and ships, sailing aloft in midair, instead of on the earth or water.
    Do not laugh, incredulous reader; remember that even more wonderful things than these have been accomplished within the last hundred years. The great inventors and discoverers have been mocked and derided as fools and idiots until their wonderful achievements have astounded the unbelieving world. We are so accustomed to these gigantic results of science, that they, even now, seem trite and commonplace. Yet, many of us, like our ancestors, think that the world is so wise; that there is no room for further knowledge or wisdom, and are slow to believe what pygmies our present great scholars, philosophers and scientific men will appear to be to their successors a few centuries hence.
    Returning from our ethereal wanderings, we will make a few more allusions to our noble mountain peaks. Some of these are still living volcanoes, the most active being Mount Baker, in the northern portion of Washington Territory. Owing to the numerous and ever-varying shapes of the clouds that rest occasionally on the top of Mount Hood--like our future aerial cars will doubtless do--the inexperienced observer is too apt to report a violent state of eruption where there is none. Still, all persons who have ascended to the summit agree that sulfurous vapors are occasionally belched forth, to a slight extent, from an almost extinct crater, not far from the top. This is also true of Mount Rainier, and some, if not all, of the other peaks. There is no such mountain scenery, as that just alluded to, in the Southwest.
    The rolling prairies there are beautiful to behold for the first time, especially in the spring and early summer months; but beauty, when monotonous, palls upon the sight--as do certain articles of food and drink when partaken of too often. In fact, any and everything lose their charms if forced upon the attention continuously--"variety is the spice of life," is as true in landscapes and climates as in anything else. I well remember my feelings of intense delight on seeing the boundless western prairies for the first time--it seemed as though they must be the most pleasant spot on God's earth for the habitations of his people. A few days of weary travel over them, beneath a scorching sun, cooled my admiration in a wonderful degree, if so paradoxical an expression may be allowed. A few years' residence taught me to exclaim with the poet:
    Man's nature is such that variety is one of his imperative wants. This variety, so far as scenery and climate are concerned, can be found on the Northwest Coast to a greater extent than in almost any other country in the world. It is true that her forests are forever green, and, lack to some degree, the variegated loveliness of the beautiful woods and groves of deciduous trees of many of the Atlantic States, yet she has many kinds of charming trees and shrubs besides those belonging to the genus pinus. The Southwest is, in this respect, far behind the Northwest Coast, as it is almost devoid of timber, except along the watercourses. The forests of Oregon are mostly distributed upon its mountain ranges and the margins of its streams. Thus the Coast Range, extending nearly north and south through the entire length of the state, and having an average breadth of twenty miles, is covered with evergreen forests of cedar, spruce, fir, sugar pine, hemlock, Oregon yew, intermixed at places with white maple, vine maple, Oregon alder, balsam tree, rhododendron, wild cherry, crab-apple; and, along the streams, cottonwood, and a kind of willow, known botanically as salix scouleriana, also the Oregon ash (fraximus Oregona).
    The Cascade Range of mountains, extending through the whole length of Washington Territory and Oregon, parallel with the Coast Range, and distant from it about forty-five miles, is also covered with similar forests. The valley land in Oregon, lying between these two ranges of mountains, possesses a few groves of a kind of oak (quercus garryana) growing about fifty-five feet high, and a more diminutive scrub oak (quercus kellogia). A beautiful evergreen called laurel (arbutus menziesii) is also found in many places. As a counterpart to these magnificent forests, what do we find in the Southwest? A few cottonwoods along the bottoms of the larger rivers; and overcup, pecan, sycamore, persimmon, black ash, blackberries, alder and red elm, along the tributary streams, which have bottoms of greater elevation than the main rivers. On the plateaux and more elevated grounds, an occasional grove of post oak, pin oak, red oak, scrub oak, blackjack, hackberry and mesquite. In some sections no timber larger than the last-named shrub can be found.
    There is such a thing as having either too little or too much timber in a country. The southwest certainly has a deficiency, and probably Washington Territory has a superabundance; but Oregon has the happy medium of just enough.
    Many of the early settlers in Oregon, who hailed from the prairie country of Illinois and Iowa, where timber was exceedingly scarce, concluded to locate in the very midst of the Oregon forests, where it cost them about one hundred dollars per acre to clear and grub their land; whereas, their more sensible fellow immigrants took up claims in the beautiful Willamette Valley, where the land is mostly prairie, with just enough of timber for firewood and fencing. The former have struggled along in comparative poverty, whilst the latter ought to be rich, if they are not, with all the advantages they have had for making money, in the finest agricultural valley in the United States. There is no other country known where the crops of cereals are so abundant and so unfailing.
    This charming valley lies in what I shall call the second of the three topographical and climatographical divisions of Oregon, being separated from the first or coast district, by the Coast Range of mountains; and from the third, or Eastern Oregon section, by the Cascade Range--these mountains running parallel to each other in a northerly and southerly direction, through the entire length of the State, the Coast Range being about four thousand, and the Cascade Range about seven thousand feet high. The length of the Willamette Valley, north and south, is about one hundred and forty miles, and its width, east and west, is forty-five miles. It is characterized by a mild, uniform and healthy climate, a rich and exceedingly productive soil. The northwest winds from the Pacific, with their cooling yet congenial influence, move gently over its surface during the summer season, making work in the open air a delightful exercise, yet not chilling the growing crops; whilst the warm southwest and southern winds of winter keep the atmosphere mild and pleasant. The Cascade Range also helps to protect the valley from frost and snow. The latter, however, falls to a considerable depth occasionally.
    Newcomers and tourists complain of our cloudy, rainy winters--Californians especially. But whilst our sister state suffers from droughts and floods alternately, five years out of every ten, the efforts of the agriculturist being thus paralyzed, Oregon has in winter her few months of rain along her valleys, and of snow in the mountains, to furnish a bountiful supply of water for her farmers and miners in the ensuing summer; with just enough of rain in spring and summer for the growth of her productions. But during harvest time the weather is dry and pleasantly warm, so that the cutting of hay and grain is a pleasant pastime, instead of irksome toil beneath a broiling sun. Owing to the dry weather, there is rarely any need of hurry about gathering the ripened grain, or of putting it in stacks, ricks or barns, to await a fitting opportunity of having it threshed.
    If a farmer is not able, or does not wish, to avail himself of any of the new methods of cutting and threshing his crop in the field, he can let it stand in the shock until an opportunity offers of securing it. He may sow his wheat in June and pasture it down in the fall, or put it in during the latter season, or wait till spring, and always be sure of a good yield. Or he can harvest a cultivated crop of oats and wheat one year, and depend on what is called a volunteer crop the succeeding year--that is, a crop springing up from the wasted seed in gathering the grain, without either plowing or harrowing. This was a common method of farmers when I first came to the country, nineteen years ago. The present farmers, however, find it advantageous to till the soil, as they thus secure a sufficiently better yield over the volunteer crop to repay them for the extra labor. Besides, they may be a little conscientious about reaping the fruits of the earth except by the sweat of the brow. The early settlers had no religious scruples of this kind. They would hardly take the trouble of fencing in their claims, further than to protect their gardens and fine young orchards; notwithstanding their neighbors' cattle, as well as their own, roamed wheresoever they listed over the prairies, which were clothed with the finest of wild grass and white clover--knowing that where cattle were allowed to select their own food, they would naturally browse on the sweetest and the best, and, per consequence, would eschew the oats and wheat, and luxuriate on the sweet grass that nature had spread before them. But when the wild grass became stunted by constant and excessive pasturage, and the stock range contracted by encroaching settlements, fencing became a necessity; so that at present, the greater portions of the claims are partially, and many entirely, surrounded by fences.
    The soil of this valley consists of a sandy loam, resting upon a bed of clay, and covered with a thick vegetable mold. It is watered and drained by many mountain streams of the purest water. Running through the center, from south to north, for its entire length, is the beautiful Willamette River, from which the valley takes its name. This stream empties into the noble Columbia, which forms the northern boundary of the state. The former is fed by numerous tributaries, rising on either side, the larger of which have their sources in two ranges of mountains, running parallel with, and forming the western and eastern boundaries of the valley.
    The Willamette is navigable, for small steamboats, as far up as Eugene, a distance of one hundred and thirty-five miles from its mouth. One of its principal branches, the Yamhill, is navigable as far as McMinnville, a distance of twelve miles from where it enters the main stream. The valley has now two railroads--the Oregon and California, on the east side of the Willamette River, extending a distance of over two hundred miles; the Oregon Central, on the west side, being completed as far as St. Joseph, on the Yamhill River. These roads will ultimately join at Junction City, near the center of the valley, and the main road continue on from its present terminus to California, with, perhaps, a branch shooting off near Eugene, in a southeasterly course, to form a junction with the Union Pacific. Other railroads are also in contemplation. The effect of these internal improvements has been to stimulate all branches of industry in the State, and especially agriculture. Owing to this stimulus, and a more than usually favorable season, the productions of the valley during the year 1873 were increased manyfold over previous years. The wheat crop alone required several hundred ships for its exportation. There were lying at one time in the harbor of Portland, the metropolis of Oregon, about twenty of these vessels, taking in cargoes of grain for foreign markets.
    It has lately been acknowledged by all of the best judges that the quality of the Willamette Valley wheat is equal, if not superior, to any in the known world. The good prices brought in the fall of 1873 and winter of 1874 gladdened the hearts and filled the pockets of the farmers, so that they felt not the effects of the money panic in the rest of the Union, and in Europe. This grain is the staple production of the Willamette Valley. Under proper cultivation, its yield to the acre is as high as sixty bushels; though the average crop, under the ordinary careless way of raising it, is, perhaps, not over thirty bushels to the acre.
    The Willamette Valley contains about seven million acres of farming land, not more than one quarter of which is under cultivation. It is true that nearly all of the best lands are claimed or settled upon; yet, the farms are so large that they are unmanageable by most of the owners, who could readily part with one half, and be the better off for so doing, as they might then properly take care of the remainder. Many of the claimants hold their lands under the donation act of Congress of 1850, which gave to every white man, half-breed Indians included, above the age of eighteen, who was a citizen of the United States, or made declaration of becoming such before a specified time, then resident of the Territory, or who became a resident prior to December 1st, 1850, three hundred and twenty acres, if a single man, and six hundred and forty acres, if married, or he became married within a year after the passage of said act--one half to himself and the other half to his wife--provided he occupied the claim four consecutive years, and otherwise complied with the terms of the act. Under the same conditions and restrictions, three hundred and twenty acres were given to such male persons described above as became residents between December 1st, 1850, and December 1st, 1853, who were married (one half to husband and the other to wife) and half that quantity to every single man or head of a family, including widows. The effect of this law was not only to stimulate immigration, but marriages; for, in order to secure the large amount of land, many men married girls not over fourteen years of age. These hasty matrimonial alliances were often followed by evil results--not the least of which were divorces.
    The early settlers had wonderful opportunities for making money, as they could raise cattle, grain, fruits and vegetables with far less labor than in any other part of the United States, and find a ready market at their very doors, from purchasers fresh from the rich gold fields of California. A few years later, the gold mines of British Columbia, Washington Territory, and Oregon, and still more recently of Montana, together with the rich gold and silver mines of Idaho Territory, furnished a constant and excellent demand for the same. These extraordinary advantages of making money by our farming population, instead of urging them into unusual activity, had generally the reverse effect; as the money came easy, it was a part of their doctrine to let it go freely. Many of them, too, would abandon their farms for the more glittering, yet far less certain, chances of wealth in the mines. Unfortunately, too, these mining excitements would generally occur in that part of the spring and summer when their crops demanded the most attention. Many a man with the "gold fever" would rush off from home, with no one left behind to take care of his claim but his wife--if he had one--if not, the place was left to itself. Generally the owner would return in the winter, worse off than when he departed, and vowing that nothing would ever induce him to be so foolish again; but, like the unfortunate drunkard, his solemn resolutions of reformation were as often broken as made.
    A few shrewd farmers and traders throughout the valley have often enriched themselves by purchasing stock and farming products at an enormous sacrifice from these unfortunate mortals, who would be always on the jump for the latest gold excitement, and would sell out any and everything in a hurry in order to secure an outfit. After the farmers began to learn, from sad experience, the uncertainty of mines, and that the best gold diggings to them lay in the tillage of their own farms, they remained at home, but, for a long time, exercised little judgment in the matter of rotation of crops, and of producing such things in the greatest abundance as would likely bring the best prices, the latter being very fluctuating. The rule adopted by the majority was to raise the succeeding year in the largest quantity that which brought the most remunerative prices the year previous, the consequence being that the market was frequently glutted by almost every product in its turn. For example, if wheat was in great demand one season, then almost everyone would sow it, to the exclusion of nearly everything else and, perhaps, overstock the market. This article falling in price, and oats becoming high, then everybody must sow a large quantity of oats, which falling in price, and wheat coming in great demand again, a large crop of this grain would be cultivated, and so on. The same system was adopted in regard to beef cattle, sheep and hogs. If bacon happened to bring a high price for one or two years, nearly every farmer would stock his place with hogs.
    Mainly owing to this false system of farming and stock-raising, hogs became so abundant one year in the early days of Oregon that they had to be shot by the hundreds as a nuisance, there being no sale whatever for them. Because the climate was so mild that stock could generally subsist on the wild grass the year round, the farmers would either not produce much provender, or if raised sell it nearly all off, and even burn up their wheat and oat straw. So that when a hard winter came, which was sure to be the case every now and then, the poor animals would starve by the thousands. This careless system of farming has nearly died out, being replaced by more skill, judgment, energy and science. Scientific farming, and raising of choice breeds of stock, are fast coming into vogue. No finer varieties of sheep, cattle, chickens and horses are seen in the United States than can be found on the two extensive farms of S. G. Reed and others, a few miles up the valley.
    As further evidence of the late stimulus given to agricultural pursuits in Oregon, it is only necessary to state that one of our most enterprising pioneers, R. R. Thompson, has lately introduced on his splendid farm of three thousand two hundred acres, situated in the county of Yamhill, a steam plow, imported from England at a cost of twelve thousand dollars. It works with perfect success. It is an immense implement in power and size. The two engines that run it weigh ten tons each. One of these is located at each end of the field, and works the plow by means of an attached wire cable. As fast as a furrow is finished, each engine in its turn is moved so as to let the plow enter fresh soil. There are two gangs of plows, each capable of making five furrows. One of them is placed at each end of the field. While one is working the other is raised. The alternation of this action at the end of each furrow prevents the necessity of reversing the implement. Only three men are required--one at each engine and one at the plow, which does an average work of fifteen acres per day.
    The present race of agriculturists possess an advantage over the old race of pioneers, in having a more regular demand for their products, and far better facilities of transportation, and they can depend with greater certainty on having help when needed, to cultivate and harvest their crops.
    After the first flush times, extending from 1850 to about 1858, the farmer could not always depend on good prices for his crop or stock, no matter what judgment he may have used in its production. Neither could he always get help, at any reasonable rate, to save his crop. Thus, prices being uncertain, labor scarce, and rarely to be depended upon, and transportation to the nearest market in wagons slow, tedious and expensive, there is no wonder that he frequently became discouraged, and made but little effort to better his condition. The era of moderate transportation, reasonable prices for help, and a more steady market, has changed all of these things for the better. So, in our parting remarks of the pioneer farmers of Oregon, let us make due allowances for the difficulties under which they labored, and pay a passing tribute to their good common sense, rare honesty and generous hospitality.
    The wonderful productions of the Willamette Valley are not confined to the cereals and grasses, but extend to all of the common varieties of fruits and vegetables. Apple, pear, plum and cherry trees begin to bear earlier here than in any other country, except California, and produce most luxuriantly. Gooseberries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and currants, both wild and cultivated, are abundant, large and delicious.
    The early settlers of Oregon were particularly fortunate in having a fine horticultural garden, established by a Mr. Lewellen, from which to select the choicest varieties of fruit trees, shrubbery and garden seeds. Orchards of select fruit trees have for the last eighteen years been a characteristic feature of the Willamette Valley. The most remarkable thing in regard to the fruit trees of Oregon is the early age at which they begin to bear. Apple and cherry trees will commence bearing at the age of three years--other trees in a proportionately short period. They soon exhaust themselves unless kept closely pruned, and much of their fruit picked off when very small and green. Fruit-raising has made the fortunes of a great many persons throughout the State. And although the time has gone by when apples, pears and plums would sell for twelve dollars a bushel, as was the case in the palmy days of the California gold mine excitement, yet the orchardist can still make money by shipping his fruit to San Francisco and the markets, where it will bring from fifty cents to a dollar per bushel. The Oregon apples are highly prized in foreign markets. Peaches and grapes do not thrive so well in the Willamette Valley as in the more southern part of the state.
    Like all the rest of the Northwest Coast, the Willamette Valley is rich in iron, copper, lead, coal, silver, and gold. The last two metals have not been found in such abundance as on the eastern side of the Cascade Range; but the more common, and, probably, the more useful mineral, iron ore, constitutes a large portion of the hills and mountain spurs lying adjacent to river navigation, as well as near the natural routes of railroads. Close to these immense reservoirs of iron ore, coal has been discovered in inexhaustible quantities; so that furnaces, rolling mills and foundries will, in the course of a few years, make the valley resound with the busy hum of thousands of industrious mechanics and artisans. There is already one large furnace at Milwaukie, near Portland, and quite a number of foundries in the latter city.
    Having described the Second District, we shall next take a glimpse at the First, or Coast District, which is a narrow strip of land, from half a mile to eight miles in width, sufficiently level for grazing or farming purposes. It is equally divided between timber and prairie lands, the soil being generally rich, especially in some of the river bottoms. Fine grass, potatoes, cabbage, and a few similar products can be raised there; but most of the ordinary vegetables, fruits and cereals do not thrive well, because of the coolness of the summers and moisture of the atmosphere. The climate is remarkably uniform, there being but little difference between the seasons.
    Having said a good deal about this district in my journal, I shall add but little here. Its uniform climate, invigorating sea air, and freedom from miasma render it the most healthful part of Oregon. It is the fashionable summer resort of persons living in the Willamette Valley, particularly of the citizens of Portland, Alsea Bay, Yaquina Bay, mouth of Salmon River, Tillamook Bay, and Clatsop Beach, being the most accessible and favorite points. Although the Coast District is in itself very narrow, yet there are numerous fertile valleys leading into the mountains along the streams that run across the coast belt into the Pacific Ocean. The soil and climate in these little valleys render them better adapted for agricultural purposes than the land immediately along the coast. Yet the numerous cozy little prairies found in the valleys afford greater advantages for the dairy business than for any other pursuit. The sands of the seashore almost glitter with gold dust. The mountain spurs, jutting out close to the ocean, are filled with copper, iron and coal. The hills and valleys are covered with the finest fir and cedar for lumber to be found anywhere in the United States. The inlets and bays abound in oysters and salmon, and the mountain streams with speckled trout. Some of the rivers and bays are navigable for a class of small vessels. There is an abundance of game along the coast, such as canvasback duck, mallard duck, blue-winged teal, green-winged teal, brown crane, killdeer, plover, snipe, black brant, Canada goose, white-fronted goose, blue grouse, quail, partridge or Virginia pheasant, blacktail and whitetail deer, elk, brown and cinnamon bears.
    It is much cooler in summer and warmer in winter in the whole of the Northwest Coast, lying west of the Cascade Range of mountains, than in corresponding parts near the Atlantic Seaboard. This is owing mainly to the facts that the prevailing winds of summer are from the northwest, and in winter from the south, southwest and southeast, and that the peculiar direction of the coast line, running from the southeast to the northwest, allows the almost uniform atmosphere of the ocean to be thus carried over the whole district, especially in winter, the cooler northwest breeze from the ocean cooling the otherwise warm temperature in summer, and the warmer southerly oceanic winds of winter rendering the otherwise cool atmosphere pleasantly mild. Another reason being that a warm current setting across from Japan, and dashing against this Northwest Coast, makes the water of the Pacific Ocean, and secondarily its atmosphere, of a much milder temperature in winter than that of the Atlantic in the same latitude. The nearness of the Cascade Range of mountains also has its influence, by penning up, as it were, the balmy breath of the Pacific, and at the same time protecting the region in a measure from the cold blasts of the Northeast.
    Whilst, owing to the intervening Coast Range of mountains, the climate of the Willamette Valley is not modified so much by the sea breezes as the first topographical district, yet it receives much more of them than the third region, east of the Cascade Range. This is partly owing to the greater distance of the latter section from the ocean, but also to the latter chain of mountains being higher than the former. As the humid atmosphere from the ocean strikes the Coast Range, the most of the moisture must be precipitated in the form of rain or snow; still, a large portion of the humidity finds its way over and through the gaps of this barrier and falls in mist or rain in the Willamette Valley. The Cascade Mountains, however, are so high as to intercept the sea fogs almost entirely.
    These facts account for the greater uniformity of the temperature and larger rainfall, in the first than in the second, and in the second than in the third, topographical district. The latter district, embracing the whole of Eastern Oregon, is so diversified in topographical and climatological features as to render a comprehensive description of the same utterly impossible in this brief summary. We must content ourselves, therefore, with a few general remarks upon the subject.
    This region is bounded on the west by the Cascade mountains; on the north partly by the main Columbia, and in part by Snake River, or the Lewis Fork of the Columbia River; on the east mainly by Snake River; on the south by Nevada and California--embracing an area of fifty-eight thousand square miles; consisting of immense plateaux of varying degrees of altitude, divided up by numerous mountain spurs, jutting out mostly from the Blue mountains, which run through the district from the northeast to the southwest. Although some of the streams are fringed with willow and cottonwood, there is but little timber in this section, except on the tops of the high ridges of the mountains, where may be found cedar, larch, fir, spruce and pine.
    The finest agricultural lands lie in the small valleys, and bottoms of the streams having their springheads in the mountains. The soil near the base of the latter is sandy and argillaceous; that of the low river bottoms, alluvial and very productive. The highlands have an ashen soil, intermixed more or less with alkaline earths and a clayey loam. All of these soils, however, will produce most of the cereals, vegetables and fruits common to a temperate zone.
    This entire district is well watered by numerous mountain streams, which, however, run too deep in the ground to be generally available for irrigation; hence, as the spring and summer seasons are usually dry, the crops of the highlands often suffer from the drought. The wild grass on the high grounds grows in spots and bunches, and is called bunchgrass. It is very nutritious, and much sought after by stock, even when dry and covered with snow.
    Whilst Eastern Oregon has much land that may be designated as valleys, and more still that would properly come under the designation of high, rolling prairie, there is a very great proportion of waste country in the western and central regions that is strictly volcanic. In its southern portion are many salt and freshwater lakes, the former having no apparent outlets, although receiving the supplies of considerable streams. Some of these picturesque bodies of water will compare favorably with the world-renowned Lakes of Killarney, in Ireland, and the Highland Lakes, of Scotland. One of them is called "Sunken Lake," because its surface is about eight hundred feet below the surrounding ground. Its perpendicular banks furnish only one place where the curious can descend to the enclosed fathomless limpid reservoir below. This lake region of Eastern Oregon has much good grazing and farming land, and is tolerably well watered. It has lately been the scene of one of the most remarkable struggles in the history of the world. When, in due course of time, it shall have been rendered accessible to tourists, by railroads, the lava beds of the Modoc War will attract much attention.
    The diversity in altitude alone of the various little valleys in Eastern Oregon render a great difference in climate, independent of the latitude, which, of course, has its modifying influences. In many of these pleasant retreats, stock can be wintered upon the wild grass, without any other food. Yet, experience dictates to the stock raisers the necessity of always keeping a supply of provender on hand, and good shelter, for the winters are capricious, and sometimes fearfully cold, with snow so deep that both man and beast must perish if unprotected. During our early mining excitements, it was very common for the newspapers of the day to contain accounts of the loss of whole herds of horses, sheep and cattle, which had been driven into this country to winter on account of the shortness of grass in the milder Willamette Valley, and because of the proximity of the mining country. But this was not the worst. Many weary miners, expressmen and traders would occasionally get blockaded by deep snows on the Blue Mountains, and even on the moderate mountain spurs and elevated prairies, so as to be cut off for months from all communication with civilization. Sometimes, too, fearful snow storms would fall upon them unexpectedly, whilst journeying in these elevated regions, freezing them to death.
    By glancing at the annexed meteorological table [no table was published], and comparing the observations of Forts Dalles and Walla Walla--the climatic representations of Eastern Oregon--with Portland and Fort Yamhill, of the Willamette Valley, or of Fort Orford and Astoria, of the Oregon Coast, it will be seen that the Third District has a much more variable climate than either of the others. Its extremes of temperature are very great. The summers are warm, and the winters, though generally only moderately cold, are sometimes as rigorous as in our New England States. It will, also, be seen that the rainfall, including the melted snow, is infinitely less than on the coast, and nothing like as great as in the Willamette Valley. In short, the climate is so entirely different from that west of the Cascade Range of mountains, that those persons who are delighted with it cannot be contented in the "webfoot" country, as the Willamette Valley is derisively called, because of its frequent rains in winter.
    Eastern Oregon people boast of their clear skies, of their warm summer weather, and dry snows of winter, and, although unable to produce as much wheat to the acre as is raised in the Willamette Valley, they can furnish the market with larger melons, more delicious peaches, etc. Her gold mines, too, are more extensive and much richer, thus making her essentially a mining region. The force of the winds is much greater here than in the Willamette Valley. This is particularly the case in the vicinity of the Dalles, where they drive the sand in fearful currents over the country, rendering travel, at times, anything but agreeable. All railways that may run through this section will have to be protected, at points, by sheds, to keep the sand from obstructing the trains.
    Whilst these strong winds are very unpleasant near the Dalles, they are considered, in their milder form, quite agreeable to the settlers in the Walla Walla and kindred valleys. This is especially the case in the spring and autumn, when the prevailing winds from the south, southwest and southeast are quite balmy, and accompanied with sufficient showers to lay the dust, which is decidedly too omnipresent in summer.
    Much more could be said of this topographical division of Oregon, as well as of the rest of the state, but the growing length of this chapter warns me to hasten on for a slight glimpse of the northern portion of the Northwest--Washington Territory.
    The latter is naturally divided by the Cascade Range of mountains into two districts, entirely different from each other in geographical and climatological characteristics.
    Its western portion is almost cut in two, from north to south by a series of straits, inlets and sounds, deep and capacious enough to hold the shipping of the world. Many persons are firm in the belief that somewhere in this Puget Sound region the future great commercial emporium of the Pacific Coast will be located. The modest little town of Tacoma, the present terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, is ambitious of this distinction. Portland, Oregon, however, has so many natural advantages, and such a great start over all other competitors in this line north of San Francisco, that she will doubtless continue to be the big sponge that will absorb nearly all the trade of the Great Northwest.
    The western is smaller than the eastern part of Washington Territory. It is densely timbered with cedar, fir, and most of the other trees described as common to the Oregon Coast. It has but few prairies--the highest of them being sandy and gravelly. The soil in the river bottoms is mostly alluvial, rich and productive. The scarcity of good agricultural prairie land, and the abundance of the finest timber in the world, together with the bountiful supply of salmon and other fish, will for many years make this region essentially a lumbering, ship-building and fishing country. The best salmon fisheries are on the Columbia River, which divides the Territory from the State of Oregon.
    The western portion of the Territory has a very uniform climate, that part of it lying between the Sound and the ocean being like the coast climate of Oregon. The district immediately east of the Sound is, of course, not so windy as the more western part. The climate may be characterized as uniform, mild, humid and healthy.
    The eastern division of the Territory is similar to Eastern Oregon, but being, of course, somewhat colder in winter, on account of its more northern latitude. It is traversed by many noble streams, which empty their crystal waters into the Columbia. Although grazing and farming will be carried on to a considerable extent in this part of Washington Territory, yet her mineral wealth must continue, as heretofore, to attract the greatest attention.
    It is rather a difficult task to compare the Northwest with the Southwest, because of the great diversity of climate in the former. I do not mean changeable climate. On the contrary, it is far more uniform than the latter; but a series of local climates, depending upon a variety of causes, such as latitude, longitude, altitude, the relative situation and proximity of each place to the Pacific Ocean, to the mountain ranges, to the mountain gorges, which allow the oceanic atmosphere to pass into the valleys beyond, to the points of the compass--whether its sloping lands face the northwest, or the warmer southwest winds, and to various. other circumstances too numerous to be mentioned.
    Although in describing the Northwest, I first divided up its more southern part (Oregon) into three topographical and climatographical districts, it has been found impossible by this method to give more than an approximate idea of the whole. Whilst the description embraces the principal characteristics of topography and climate, in regard to the coast and Eastern Oregon sections, it falls short in respect to the great valley region between these two districts; for the reason that there are lying south of the Willamette Valley, the Umpqua and Rogue River Valleys, which though possessing many of the features of the first, are yet in some points very different. They are, of course, milder and dryer, and capable of producing some kinds of fruits and vegetables that do not thrive well in the more northern valley, especially peaches and grapes.
    In order to facilitate the comparison between the Southwest and Northwest, I have, in the description of the various sections of the latter, omitted some of the most important features, because they are common to the whole region, and can, therefore, be the better described in an antithetical analysis of the two countries. Having already pointed out some of the contrasts in topography, I shall now allude to a few in climate.
    The Northwest has fewer and less destructive wind storms than the Southwest, and no frightful hurricanes, which are so common in all parts of the western and southwestern states and territories, where their courses are marked by the prostration of trees and hamlets--whirling the former in the air like so many straws. This destruction would be more marked if that region contained more forests, or habitations. What fearful catastrophes must result when all that beautiful section shall have been densely populated, with large cities scattered here and there, as centers of commerce and civilization. This is no overdrawn picture of the imagination, for hardly a year rolls over our heads that we do not read of the havoc of these western tornadoes.
    From careful observations made by the government, it is found that during the last twenty-five years only three storms of a velocity of forty-five miles an hour have visited the Northwest Coast; whereas, in the Old Northwest, east of the Rocky Mountains, such winds have been frequent, and sometimes reaching the terrible velocity of ninety-five miles an hour. Further, the Southwest is subject to what is known as the "northers," or cold blasts of wind springing up suddenly from the north or northwest, sending the thermometer in a few hours from a summer temperature of 75° down almost to zero. Woe to the traveler on the prairies, if caught unprepared in such an emergency. Occasionally government expeditions have been crippled by the loss of their mules and horses, from exposure to these chilling winds.
    Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S. Army, on returning from his Santa Fe expedition in 1849, experienced one of them just before reaching the frontier settlements of Texas, with a loss of many of his animals.
    In the vicinity of Fort Arbuckle, located on Wild Horse Creek, a tributary of the False Washita River, in the Indian Territory, these "northers" occasionally appear, but not so often nor so severely as on the plains further to the Southwest. However, on the 15th of March, 1854, we there witnessed a very hard one, the temperature falling in a few hours from 76° to 15°, owing to a sudden veering of the wind from the south to the northwest. These rapid changes of temperature in the Southwest are more frequent in the latter part of autumn and the beginning of spring.
    In Washington Territory and Oregon, a change in winter of the wind from south to north will cool the atmosphere considerably, but by no means to such an extreme as follows a similar variation of the wind in the Southwest. The latter country is visited by frequent thunder storms, occurring mostly in midsummer. In that portion of the Northwest lying between the Cascade Range of mountains and the ocean, thunder is rarely heard, and generally in the latter part of spring. In the section east of said range of mountains it is a little more common, but nothing like so frequent as in the Indian Territory and Western Texas.
    Such a thing as sultry weather (hot and humid) is unknown in the Northwest. In the Southwest it is quite common, relaxing both body and mind, so as to unfit one, for the time being, for energetic employment of any kind, unless it be to fight off the numerous horrid insects and reptiles that infest the latter country, such as flies, mosquitoes, gnats, beetles, wood ticks, tarantulas, scorpions, centipedes, three varieties of the rattlesnake, the ground, black and diamond cotton-mouthed moccasins--which are even more poisonous than the rattlesnake--copperheads, adders, lizards, toads, and horned frogs, the latter being the only real innocent creatures of the whole list. This interesting reptile receives its name from the fact of having a horn protruding from the center of its head. It can live on air alone for a long time. I saw one kept in a bottle, with no water or food, for six months, without showing any evidence of diminished vitality. The most of the hideous reptiles just mentioned infest every part of the Southwest. If the traveler lay his wearied head upon the grassy prairie, he often finds, on awakening in the morning, a centipede or tarantula in his boot, or a copperhead or rattlesnake nestled close by, if not beneath his blanket. The two former are almost as venomous as the latter.
    The Northwest is almost entirely free from these torments of the earth, having none of them, excepting flies, gnats, a few mosquitoes, and a very small number of rattlesnakes. I have only seen one of the latter since my first arrival. Whilst, during the summer season, in the Southwest, one tosses restlessly and almost sleeplessly on his couch, wet with the sweaty drippings from his parboiled body, and rises in the morning more dead than alive from a want of a proper proportion of quiet, refreshing sleep, the lucky inhabitants of the Northwest passes the night beneath a blanket, in a state of the most perfect security of body and mind, and awakes the next day with his muscles and brain elastic and vigorous, because the nights are always refreshingly cool and pleasant. Although our nights are always pleasantly cool, it will be seen, by reference to the annexed meteorological tables [not printed], that we sometimes have very hot days during summer in the Willamette Valley, and even hotter in Eastern Oregon; but, then, owing to the dryness of the air, the same degree of heat is not so oppressive here as in the Southwest. Anyone having doubts upon this subject will find, on consulting the annexed tables, how little rain falls during this part of the year in this country, and ought to know how much greater heat appears in a humid than in a dry atmosphere. If he does not, let him try the experiment for himself in a room with and without moisture. To the very few who may not understand the philosophy of this difference, I would simply state that evaporation of the perspiration on the surface of the body has a tendency to keep the latter cool and that this process, other things being equal, goes on the better in a dry atmosphere, and that it is checked in exact proportion to the humidity of the air.
    In the Northwest we have from six to eight months tolerably dry weather, and from four to six decidedly moist. Whilst, then, the summers are delightfully pleasant, the winters, especially on the coast and in the Willamette Valley, are often dismal and gloomy. Many persons are so organized as not to be able to stand this kind of weather without a murmur; but nine-tenths of the people who remain here long enough to overcome their homesickness for the country left behind prefer this kind of weather to a clear, cold atmosphere, with snow on the ground. Although fond of skating, and the merry jingle of sleigh bells, still I have learned to prefer the comparatively mild rainy weather to cold days, whether clear or snowy.
    I have already stated that although the climate of the Willamette Valley is generally mild in winter, yet there are, occasionally, spells of very cold or exceedingly snowy weather; so that our winters are not always like the one of 1872, when the coldest day caused the thermometer to sink to but 22° above zero. On the coast the temperature is rarely below 30° in winter, or above 22° [sic] in summer. Many persons might prefer the winters of the Southwest, which are certainly dryer, and not any cooler than in the milder climatic district of Oregon, but have no advantage, in these respects, to Eastern Oregon and Washington Territory.
    In regard to healthfulness, there can be no difference of opinion as to the Northwest Coast being far more salubrious than the Southwest. In fact, it has been proven by the government report of the mortality of the various states in the Union, that the Territory of Washington and the State of Oregon, are, by far, the most healthful sections of the United States.
    Whilst the death rate in Vermont, the healthiest state east of the Rocky Mountains, is one in ninety-two, it is only one in one hundred and seventy-two in Oregon, and one in two hundred and twenty-eight in Washington Territory. Making due allowance for the effects naturally arising from the larger and more crowded cities in the East, still the advantage is vastly in favor of the Northwest Coast.
    To the mind of the medical philosopher, the reason of this great dissimilarity in point of healthfulness is perfectly self-evident. Especially so, as it bears upon the comparative salubriousness of the two great regions directly under review, as both of them are nearly equal in population, size of towns and cities. As might be easily inferred from the geological, topographical and climatological characteristics of the Southwest, with her rich soil, almost level surface, sluggish streams--many of which dry up in summer--frequent showers in the latter parts of spring and autumn, and hot atmosphere, there must of necessity be a vast amount of malaria generated, thus rendering the air poisonous to an extreme degree. In Oregon and Washington Territory many of these conditions are wanting. The whole aspect of the country is more mountainous; the streams come dashing from the mountainsides as cold, pure and clear as the melting snows can make them; the pure and almost steady breeze from the ocean not only equalizes the local temperature, by lowering it in summer and elevating it in winter, but carries off the unhealthy exhalations from the soil almost as fast as generated. The surface of the ground is not covered in the autumn with any very large quantity of decaying vegetable matter, as the majority of our trees are evergreens, and the wild grasses are moderately short. As soon as decay begins in the latter, a new crop springs up, imbibing as its food the gases resulting from the decomposition of the previous production, thus purifying the atmosphere. Still, malarious or miasmatic fevers do prevail to some extent along the banks of the Willamette River and some of its tributaries, and in the low alluvial bottoms of a small extent of the noble Columbia. The coast, however, is perfectly free from all such fevers.
    During a year's residence at Fort Orford, located in the latter district, I did not see a single case of any of the numerous varieties of these diseases, except in a secondary form, that is, occurring in persons who had been ill with the complaint before arriving there, or who had imbibed the poison somewhere else. The slight cases of miasmatic fevers prevalent in Oregon are quite amenable to treatment. There are but few of its severe remittent or congestive types.
    During the four years of my residence at Fort Yamhill, located on the south fork of the Yamhill River, a tributary of the Willamette, and, consequently, in the Willamette Valley, I saw hardly any of these fevers. At Portland, Oregon, they are of more frequent occurrence. But even here they are rare and mild, in comparison with the same infections in the vicinity of Fort Arbuckle, in the Indian Territory. With the single exception of myself, I never saw a person who had lived in that country four years who had not had the intermittent, remittent or typho-malarial fever so often as to render him or her sufficiently debilitated to require a change of climate for the recuperation of health.
    As may be seen by reference to the sanitary reports from the various military stations in that country, the same unhealthfulness obtains in the whole region until the dry and sandy plains are reached. Notwithstanding the great prevalence of malarious fevers in the Southwest, the general mortality, except at epidemic periods, is small, owing mainly to the fact that experienced physicians have the power to control them with more promptness and certainty than any other class of maladies in the nosology. Perhaps the most fatal disease of all in that country is the "winter fever," a combination of typho-malarial fever and pneumonia. When epidemic, which is the case every few years, it sweeps off hundreds of the Indians and frontiersmen. The great mortality, however, is mainly owing to the irrational mode of treating it by many of the uneducated physicians of the country, upon the old antiphlogistic plan of depletion by blood-letting, purgatives and emetics, instead of by tonics, stimulants, etc.
    Aside from the gloomy, dismal character of the long continued cloudy and rainy weather of winter in Western Oregon and Washington Territory, there is nothing in a hygienic point of view objectionable in this season, for the temperature is rarely disagreeable, is pretty uniform, and the rains wash off a vast deal of filth and other unhealthy deposits which accumulate during the summer, especially in the larger towns. This is preeminently the case in the city of Portland, the commercial emporium of Oregon. The miasmatic exhalations arising from the filthy back yards and hovels of the Chinese quarters would decimate the population of the city annually, if it were not for the thorough washing and cleansing those places receive from nature every rainy season.
    With the exception of the greater prevalence in the Southwest of the malarial fevers, and their multifarious complications of other diseases, I do not know but what it will compare favorably with the Northwest in point of healthfulness. A majority of the usual complaints that inflict poor, perishing humanity in temperate latitudes are found in both regions, but presenting modifications in accordance with particular local climates. The latter country can, however, thus far boast over the former in not experiencing the Asiatic cholera. This fearful complaint at one time even came as far as California, but did not reach the Northwest. Yet, we cannot hope for an entire immunity.
    There is one disease--yellow fever--that occasionally inflicts a portion of the Southwest, that can, in all human probability, never find its way into this part of the United States.
    In the early spring of 1852, the scurvy made its appearance among the troops at Fort Arbuckle, in the Indian Territory, owing to the want of sufficient fresh meats, vegetables and fruits in the commissary department. It being too early for garden vegetables, by my recommendation the whole neighborhood was searched in order to obtain wild onions, which were issued to the command in every conceivable shape and mode, as both food and medicine, with the most happy effects.
    In explanation of the annexed meteorological table, it is necessary to state that the places designated where observations were made are selected because of their representative character for each section or district, thus: Fort Orford and Astoria for the Oregon Coast, Fort Yamhill and Portland for the Willamette Valley, Forts Dalles and Walla Walla for Eastern Oregon and Washington Territory, Fort Steilacoom for the western part of the latter Territory, Forts Arbuckle, Chadbourne and Lancaster for the Southwest. Although some of these observations were made between the years 1855 and 1859, they give as fair an idea of the climate as any later dates could possibly do. Some of the observations presented were made under my own supervision, and all by competent and reliable government officers.
    The rainfall at Fort Orford for the year 1855 of 83.40 inches, and at Astoria, in 1871, of 93.04 inches seems large, but there is no doubt as to the correctness of the observations. In this connection it may not be out of place to relate a little incident that occurred when I was stationed at Fort Arbuckle, in the year 1851. There chanced one night to be a very heavy rain for that section of country. The weather, that ever fruitful topic of conversation, being under discussion the following morning, someone inquired of me how much rain had fallen the previous twenty-four hours. I remarked "an inch and a half."
    "Pshaw!" replied an old Pike, standing near, "your tarnal thing must have leaked, for I put my brand-new boot outside the wagon on going to sleep last night, and when I got up this morning it was chuck full, and I know my boot is one foot long and two high, which would make three feet."
    It is, perhaps, needless to add that the rain gauge in use at Fort Orford and Astoria was not a boot.
Dr. Rodney L. Glisan, Journal of Army Life, Bancroft 1874



Last revised March 24, 2025