|
Coos
Bay Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, COOS BAY, Jan. 28, '54.
GENTLEMEN:--After
this long silence, I proceed to improve the passing moment by giving
you a few items in relation to the Coos Bay enterprise.Two years have passed since first I found my way into this new region. A year and a half ago I told you of its existence, and of the progress I had then made in its exploration. The Bay was here then--the stone coal was here--the white cedar timber was here--and the gold was here. But the resources of nature, like the marble in the quarry, lay dormant. The wild savage was the lord of the soil and the sea, and the white man was as unknowing to the place as its natives were to him. The scene is now changed. Five miles from the mouth of the Bay Empire City is located, and before its wharf vessels are lying, discharging their freight and receiving their lading. Small boats are plying from it to all parts of the Bay, and pack trains and wagons are loading at it with supplies for the gold diggings, which are only a few miles off. In a word, we have here a city which already presents the appearance of an active seaport town. You will recollect that I told you in a few years all this would come to pass. You then doubted it, and so did many others. When raising and forming Coos Bay Company, at Jacksonville last spring, I stated the same. I told them that all these resources were here, and I showed them specimens. They believed it only in part. I told them what would be the result of a settlement here; but they doubled my predictions. Yet they tried the experiment, and the result has exceeded the expectations of all. Indeed, the Coos Bay and Coquille country present at present the most fruitful field of enterprise anywhere to be found on our great western border. The Bay is large and beautiful--the climate is salubrious--the soil unusually productive--its resources for superior white cedar timber, and for stone coal of excellent quality are unsurpassed--while it is here that the northern extremity of the California and Rogue's River coarse gold range terminates. As a mining region there is, in our opinion, no field in which the laborer is at once so richly rewarded for his toil, so comfortably situated, and so readily and cheaply furnished with supplies, as in the Coos Bay Diggings. Yours, as ever,
Shasta Courier, March 4, 1854, page 2P. B. MARPLE. Coos Bay Correspondence of the Statesman.
Terrible Storm--Thunder and Lightning. EMPIRE CITY, Jan. 4, 1857.
FRIEND BUSH:--There
passed over this place last week one of the most terrific storms,
accompanied by thunder and lightning, that was ever known on this
coast. The brig S. R. Jackson,
lying at anchor near the mouth of the bay, waiting an opportunity to go
to sea, was struck by lightning, and her mainmast completely destroyed,
the [electrical] fluid passing through the deck, entering the cabin,
displacing chairs and tables, tearing off the side of a berth, and
shivering the steps of the companionway to atoms. It then entered the
hold of the vessel, destroyed in its course some hundred bushels of
potatoes, and passed through the side above water.The most remarkable fact is that no one was hurt or affected in the slightest manner, except the captain, and he only feeling a jar and a slight numbness for a few minutes. One of the passengers who had retired had a bottle of gin under his head, which was broken without his being aware how it was done. There were eight or ten persons on board at the time. A portion of the mast, in falling, pierced the deck of the cabin some two feet, yet no one was hurt. The gaff-topsail was pierced through and through by the lightning, and looked as though it had been eaten by the rats. The damage done is estimated at eight hundred or one thousand dollars. She was obliged to put back for repairs. There was a tree struck in town during the same storm, without doing any particular damage. On the other side of the bay from here, the scow used for the ferry was moored with a rope cable; it was found on this side next day, all stove in pieces. How it was so completely broken up in one night, unless struck by lightning, is hard to conjecture. The present winter thus far is said to be [the] most unpleasant ever known here. Snow fell in sufficient quantity to cover the ground, for.the first time this season, last night; it remains still, and more is occasionally falling. The thermometer stands tonight at 36--six [sic] degrees above the freezing point. This place is at present quite dull, owing in some measure to many being gone to the new mines, and waiting there for the waters to run down, when all expect to do well. I think, from what I can learn, there can be no doubt but they will meet with good success; all that have visited the mines speak highly of them; they are distant from here about two days travel. There are a few way down here in Coos that regret very much the impossibility of being with the Democracy at Salem on the 8th. Distance and bad weather must be our excuse. Consider us there in spirit and feeling; we have just heard down here that Mr. Buchanan is elected. The true lovers of the Union as it is are much rejoiced at the result. Yours, truly, [unsigned]
Oregon Statesman, Salem, January 20, 1857, page 2COOS COUNTY.--From a letter published in the Advocate we obtain the following in regard to Coos County: Empire City is a pretty little seaport town, situated on the south side of Coos Bay, about four miles east of its mouth. It is quite a thriving town; has three stores, two saloons, and three hotels. The county of which Empire City is the county seat consists of Coos River Valley, which is settled twelve miles above its mouth, and Coquille River Valley, which is settled for seventy miles from where the river empties into the ocean. There are two large saw mills on the bay, which employ from twenty-five to thirty hands each, besides many who are employed in rafting and cutting logs to supply the mills. The two valleys alluded to are being settled up fast and the large trees are made to feel the woodman's ax, that room may be made for the cultivation of the rich soil. Randolph is another place of some importance. It is situated near the mouth of the Coquille River. There are some good mines here. There is a report that new diggings have been discovered near by, but I shall not place implicit confidence in it until confirmed by more thorough investigation. The Coquille River is navigated by one small vessel, of forty tons, and it is reported that another will be put on, to ply between its mouth and San Francisco, next summer. Oregon City Enterprise, April 6, 1867, page 1 From Empire City.
EMPIRE CITY, Dec. 6, 1869.
ED. STATESMAN.--As
I seldom perceive any communications in your excellent paper from this
place, I propose giving the numerous readers of the Statesman an occasional view of matters and things on Coos Bay.Cutting Timber on Government Land.
Some time ago a report reached this place that numerous persons upon
the Bay, and identified with the lumbering interests, had been
presented before the U.S. grand jury for the crime of cutting timber on
government lands. As regards the probability and the truth of this
allegation, nothing definite is known by your correspondent; yet, in
view of all the facts connected with the manufacture of lumber on the
Bay, and the timber taken from government or unsurveyed lands,
ungracious and unjust would be the jury or court that would procure the
conviction of persons so situated, for numerous reasons, a few of which
I hope you will allow me space to mention. Universally, since the
settlement of our frontier territories was commenced, the most liberal
inducements and friendly aid have been afforded and pledged by the
government. Coos Bay was settled by a band of hardy pioneers, at an
early day in the history of Oregon. There is but a small portion of
tillable land included within the limits of the county, and the immense
forests of timber afforded many facilities for the manufacture of
lumber, and persons became therefore necessarily engaged therein, and
some of them, by hard labor and incessant toil, have secured quite a
competency. Every effort they could devise to have the lands surveyed
and brought into market they have not failed to employ. Petition after
petition have been sent to the heads of department praying for a survey
of these lands, but they have been unheeded. These persons are willing
and ready to pay a reasonable price for the lands and the timber
thereon; and now, to indite, prosecute and embarrass them is not only
unjust and reprehensible, but villainous and mean. The annual fires
raging in these forests destroy more timber in one day than the mills
can or have manufactured since their commencement. Such is a limited
view of this matter, which interests and involves many of the "hardy
sons of toil" known as "the loggers."Sundry Items.
The schooner Alaska,
Capt. Godfrey, was wrecked on the 30th day of November last, while
trying to get out over the Coquille River bar. The cargo consisted of
lumber, which, with the vessel, will prove a total loss. The wreck was
sold at auction, and purchased by the Johnson Bros. for a nominal sum.The health of Dr. Herman continues in a precarious condition, and his many friends and acquaintances are much alarmed for his recovery. He certainly has their earnest sympathies in his prolonged suffering. Favorable reports continue to come from the gold mines on the coast. Some persons of Empire City are interested in them to a large amount, among whom I may mention Mr. T. G. Sockart, Mr. A. Moody, our efficient Sheriff, and Mr. H. Wyckoff, our County Treasurer. The Independent Order of Odd Fellows have a flourishing lodge in Empire City, which was organized some time in August last with eight members, and now numbers near fifty. The Masons have a lodge just organized at Marshfield, some eight miles from this place. The weather continues fine up to date. MORE ANON.
Oregon Statesman, Salem, December 17, 1869, page 2Correspondence.
ED. SENTINEL:--A few items from our coast may perhaps add interest to your paper; if so, you are welcome to the following:Coos Bay is a beautiful sheet of water, situated in Coos County, Oregon, about twenty miles long and one mile wide. The bar, at the mouth of the Bay, is considered very good for vessels drawing twelve to fourteen feet of water. The lumbering business is carried on to a considerable extent, there being three large saw mills in full operation, one at Marshfield, one at North Bend, and one at Empire City. Last week fifteen vessels crossed the bar, loaded with lumber and coal, bound for San Francisco and San Diego, Cal. On the 17th inst., the brig Ida C. Rogers was wrecked, while entering this harbor. Owing to the thick fog the captain of the tug boat Fearless, who had her in tow, could not see the channel. The Fearless also came very near being wrecked, and would have been, had she not received assistance from the tug Escort, which, in answer to the sign of distress, hastened to relieve her. The Ida C. Rogers sank in thirty feet of water, just inside the Bar, with several tons of merchandise belonging to Messrs. Flanagan & Mann, owners of the Eastport coal mines. The vessel went down so quick that the crew had barely time to launch their lifeboat. They were all saved, but lost all their clothing, &c. Dr. Herman, an old and highly respected citizen of this county, died on the 16th inst., at his residence on the Coquille River. The Doctor was respected as a good citizen, a skillful physician, and a kind neighbor; he is a great loss to his large family and to the people of this county. We are having a mild and pleasant winter here, and times are quite lively. ANON.
Empire City, Dec. 19th, 1870.Stat.Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, January 1, 1870, page 2 Letter from Coos.
EMPIRE CITY, Jan. 16th, 1870.
ED. STATESMAN:--The
Scriptures informs us that where "little is given little is required."
So in our case, where little transpires, but little news may be
expected. The good people of Coos Bay were somewhat panic-stricken a
few days since to see appear in our midst the U.S. District Attorney,
Mr. Cartwright, and U.S. Marshal Young. Fears of warrants and
arrests--visions of dungeons and prisons--hastily flitted across the
public mind. But a genial smile and pleasant greetings soon dispelled
the accumulating fears; and it is believed by the parties at present
that a satisfactory arrangement of this affair concerning the taking of
timber from the government lands can be had.The community of Empire City have been honored with a visit from Col. Craig, the "bilk." He soon commenced his confidence operations, representing himself as a physician, Confederate surgeon, missionary, &c. If the good people of Corvallis, Salem or Albany want a writ of arrest, now is a favorable opportunity, for officers are ready and willing. Empire City is improving very rapidly. Many substantial buildings are being erected; among others may be mentioned a town hall by A. C. Rogers, 32x60. Empire contains at present six hotels, four saloons, four dry goods stores, two drugstores, three law offices, and a number of fine dwellings. The Independent Order of Good Templars have a flourishing lodge of some sixty members. The second quarter of the district school under the supervision of Miss Annie West is near its close, and has been very acceptable to patrons generally. The weather is fine at present. More anon. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem, January 28, 1870, page 2Letter from Coos.
EMPIRE CITY, Feb. 29, 1870.
ED. STATESMAN:--Since
writing my last, there has been a dearth of news items. The people are
talking of the approaching election, and both political parties are
marshaling and mustering their forces for the campaign. The Union
Republican Party are confident of carrying Coos and Curry counties by
increased majorities. The defunct, rotten, polluted carcass of
Democracy will be totally demolished, and the putrid remains be
scattered forever. The success of the administration of President Grant
has lowered their topsails. The Union party is united, and will be as
one man in the approaching canvass. The course of Oregon's noble
Senator, Geo H. Williams, has given entire satisfaction to us, as well
as to all other sections. Candidates are getting numerous as the
convention approaches. Among those mentioned in connection with the
nomination for joint representative with Curry are S. S. Mann, D. L.
Watson, Esq., and others. Coos River precinct is the banner precinct in
Coos County, as there is but one Democrat in a poll of nearly 50 votes.
I lately had occasion to visit that part of the county, and was much
struck with the great beauty of the country and fertility of the soil.
Vegetables are produced upon Coos River, that for size, quality and
quantity will successfully compete with any in the world. There are
many fine locations on the river, and some beautiful dwellings; among
others I may mention Martin Davis' and Hanson Rogers'. Mr. A. B. Colver
has the mammoth orchard of Oregon, I think, containing over ten
thousand large and bearing trees. Mr. Colver exports large quantities
of fruit every year. The hearts of the good people are as large as
their orchards and vegetable productions, as your correspondent can
testify from the amiable and clever way in which they ministered to his
wants. The young ladies, blooming and fair, made quite an impression
upon my companion, who was an "unprotected youth from town," and upon
the voyage homeward was somewhat "looney." After so much nonsense, Mr.
Editor, I will add a few sundry items.On the 21st day of' the present month the bark Charles Devens, while going out over the bar, in tow of the Fearless, made a shear and struck upon a sand bank known as North Spit. The sea being rough, she was thrown with much violence against the bank, and all attempts to save her failed. She, with her cargo, consisting of lumber, will prove a total loss. The Charles Devens has quite a history. She was built in Newport, R.I., twenty-three years ago, and was the first vessel that ever made regular trips between San Francisco and Portland. After an eventful career and many narrow escapes, she now lies at the mercy of the waves, at the entrance of Coos Bay. The birthday of Washington was properly observed here; the flags were displayed from the town and vessels in the harbor, and in the evening a ball was given by A. C. Rogers, Esq. The lovers of fun seemed to enjoy themselves, and "tripped the light fantastic toe" until near morning. A splendid supper was prepared by mine host, Mr. Bushnell, and his amiable lady, which was duly appreciated by all, as well as your correspondent. The weather is rather stormy, and is unfavorable for shipping. More anon. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem, March 11, 1870, page 2Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, May 2, 1870.
ED. STATESMAN: Dear Sir--I will avail myself the present opportunity to inform the numerous readers of the Statesman
of matters and things in Coos County generally. Politics are the
all-absorbing theme, and as much capital has been manufactured by the
unterrified Democracy out of certain transactions and actions of the
Union Republican Party in this county, I propose giving you some
account of this matter.The Republican County Convention met on the 26th day of March and nominated a county ticket for Coos County, and D. L. Watson for joint representative. There was much competition for the officers, and as a matter of course some dissatisfaction was expressed at the action of the convention. This, together with some local causes and prejudices, being brought to bear, the respective candidates for County Judge, Sheriff, Clerk, Commissioners, School Superintendent, resigned. A new convention was called to fill those vacancies, which met on the 23rd of April and proceeded to fill the vacancies. Our county ticket at present is as follows: Joint Representative D. S. Walton, of Empire City, a young man of ability, who will, if elected, faithfully and truly represent the people of Coos and Curry counties in advocating their interests and that of the Republican Party. Our candidate for County Judge is the Hon. S. S. Mann, who has been Judge for this county for eight years, and I venture to say a more just and eminently qualified individual is not to be found among the judges of the state. For Sheriff, we have A. J. Moody. of whom I need say no more than that he has been elected sheriff three successive times, and is again before the people by the spontaneous action of the convention. For Clerk, Mr. Gilbert, a gentleman well qualified for that position. For Commissioners, J. Roulre and C. Warner; for Treasurer, A. C. Rogers; for Assessor, D. Giles; for Surveyor, T. M. Bridges; for School Superintendent, C. W. Tower, a graduate of Harvard, and well fitted for any position. For Coroner, M. N. Worth. This ticket is a very strong one and will be elected by a handsome majority, all the efforts of Lockhart (Copperhead) and company to the contrary notwithstanding. The Republican Party here is increasing in strength every day; new accessions to our ranks are continually coming in, and to our co-laborers in the state elsewhere, we send words of cheer. Our state and judicial ticket give supreme satisfaction, and we shall roll up such a majority from Coos and Curry next June as shall cause repudiation and repudiators to quake like aspen leaves. There is little news of importance. An Indian was brought before Justice Roberts a few days since charged with assaulting A. H Hunch with a knife, but after a hearing, was discharged. The parties engaged in trying to raise the J. C. Rogers, a vessel wrecked some time since, have abandoned the undertaking. The weather is somewhat stormy at present. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem, May 20, 1870, page 1Empire City Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, Jan. 3, 1871.
COOS RIVER
is
navigable about ten miles. The "North" and "South Forks" unite about
five miles from its junction with the Bay, and each fork is navigable
for about five miles. The main river, and each fork, is walled in with
high, precipitous mountains. The soil of the "bottoms" is very rich,
but the bottoms are very narrow--not being more than half a mile wide
in the widest places; and, in many instances, the mountains--several of
them solid granite--come to the water's edge. The river is very
crooked, and in its bends and narrow bottoms are many nice little
farms. But farming here is very different from farming in the
Willamette Valley. The largest farms here consist of about twenty acres
of tillable land--some consist of five or six acres. The principal
products are garden vegetables and apples. There are some as fine
orchards as I ever saw in the Willamette. Some oats are raised, for
hay, and a little wheat, for chicken feed. All the flour that is used
here comes from San Francisco, as there is no flouring mill in this
part of the country. No wagons are used on the farms. In fact there arc
but two or three wagons on the river, and not more than that number of
farms on which they could be used to advantage. Previous to last Sept.
the farmers had to transport their produce to market in open boats,
which was very laborious and, at times, dangerous. Two little steamers
are now making regular trips, twice a week, up the river. Some apples
are shipped to San Francisco, but a ready market is found for most of
the produce at the towns and coal mines on the bay. Land on the river
is valued at from fifteen to twenty dollars per acre.The weather is still remarkably pleasant, the thermometer ranging from 45° to 50°, and very little rain. Frogs keep up their croaking, and flies and gnats, though not as abundant as in the summer, are yet in sufficient quantities to make their presence known. There is some excitement about the "terminus" on the Columbia River; and one of our wealthiest men talks of moving his business to that place about the first of next March. At any rate he will visit it at that time to sec what he can do. In my other communication, the place left blank should have been filled with fifteen thousand, as that is the number of feet our mills cut per day. The Register visits us regularly, and all appreciate it very highly. Yours Truly, W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, February 11, 1871, page 2Empire City Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, Feb. 7th, 1871.
COAL
abounds
on Coos Bay. Thirteen hundred acres of wild, mountainous land, on which
coal has been discovered, sold recently tor fourteen thousand dollars.
Last week another vein was discovered, on unsurveyed land, by two
gentlemen who have since taken it under the homestead law. Ten thousand dollars will open this vein--so say men who are supposed to know. Fifty thousand dollars have been spent in opening one of the veins which is now worked, on the Bay.Last Wednesday evening THE GOOD TEMPLARS
installed
their officers for the ensuing quarter. Dr. North was installed as WCT;
Mrs. E. H. Woodruff, WVT; Miss Eva Lockhart, WS; E. A. Woodruff, WFS;
O. E. Smith, WM; Mr. Finch, WDM; Mrs. Philips, WT; Miss Florine
Woodruff, WIG; Charles Getty, WOG; Miss Alice Stokes, WRS; Miss Ella
Lockhart, WLS; Miss Addie Vandervort, WC.The lodge seems to be on the decline, yet it has done much good in this place. The weather last week was quite fine, but it commenced raining last Saturday, and it has been quite stormy ever since. SMELT
are
now caught in large quantities by the Indians, and sold to the citizens
of Empire at fifty cents a wooden pailful, or $1.50 per bushel. W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, February 18, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, Feb. 28th, 1871.
STORMY WEATHER
prevailed
most of last week, which has rendered the bar at the mouth of the Bay
quite rough, but this morning it cleared off and it now bids fair to be
fine for some time. Four vessels were seen outside last evening, but
the bar was too rough to permit the tugs to bring them in. Sometimes
vessels have laid off the bar three weeks before the tugs would venture
to bring them in. A few weeks ago, one came up from San Francisco in
four days, and then on account of stormy weather had to lay off seventeen days.There are three tugs here, one owned by Mr. Pushbacker, of Marshfield, and the others by the North Bend Company. As LUMBER
is
very dull sale in San Francisco, times are quite dull here. Mr. Luse,
the owner of the mill at Empire, has sent one of his vessels to Callas,
in South America, to see if he can open the trade for lumber in that
part of the world. If lumber does not "come up," our only hope of
better times is in the coal mines; but as it is confidently believed
that another mine will be opened this summer, by a company from San
Francisco, we have not much to fear.As this is not an agricultural county, the land on the river being heavily timbered, STOCK
has
to be well fed during the fall and winter, or they become quite poor.
Most of the beef that is used here at this season of the year comes
from the Coquille, distance thirty miles. It is not very good, yet a
choice cut commands fifteen cents a pound.One great drawback to this country is the want of A GOOD WAGON ROAD
to
the Umpqua Valley. At present there is but an indifferent trail, but a
route is now being surveyed for a road, and by next fall we hope to
have a good wagon road connecting Roseburg with this place, or with
Coos River.WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY
was
celebrated by a vessel, which was lying out in the bay, firing a
fifteen-pounder occasionally during the entire day, and by an impromptu
ball at the courthouse in the evening. By the way, almost every
celebration or dedication has to close with a ball.We understand that the GOLD MINE,
owned
by Mr. Lockhart, on the Coquille, near Randolph, bids fair to pay well.
Hope it may, as he has spent a large sum of money on it.W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, March 11, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, March 21, 1871.
The little steamer Argo,
which plies on the Bay and its tributaries, was seized by a United
States officer, for violation of law. It seems that she had, without a
license, been carrying passengers. Her owner, Capt. Claugh, has gone to
Portland to try to get her released. Hope he may succeed, as his all
is invested in the boat, and he has a family depending on his earnings.
Besides, the boat was a great convenience to this part of the country,
as she made daily trips to North Bend and Marshfield, and weekly trips
up the various tributaries of the Bay. Though she was not licensed,
there are many mitigating circumstances in her case.The tug Escort, while trying to get out to bring in a vessel, a few days ago, stuck on the bar and knocked off about six feet of her false keel. This occurred in consequence of the stormy weather, causing the channel to close about up. When I wrote you last, I supposed the storm was over; but it has continued to rage, with short intervals, ever since. The last week was the most stormy of the season. No vessel has gone out for six weeks; more than a dozen are now laying in the Bay, ready for sea.. The tugs can bring them in when they cannot take them out, on account of their being more lightly loaded when coming in. A sad event occurred here last Saturday. A few weeks ago a man came down here from North Bend. He brought with him $225, a "Whitehall" boat, shotgun, and a few other items. He went into O'Conner's saloon and commenced drinking, and kept it up till the day of his death, which occurred last Saturday. In less than a week his money and property had fallen into the hands of O'Conner, who then went and notified the sheriff that the county must take care of the poor wretch. By this time he was afflicted with delirium tremens. The sheriff took charge of him, but left him in care of O'Conner. He lived two weeks after this. Last Saturday he died, and was buried Saturday evening at the expense of the county. O'Conner now brings in a bill of fifty dollars against the county, for taking care of his victim two weeks. He took the man's money, and property, and caused his death, and yet, as greedy as the grave, clamors for more. But as long as a government, that claims to be civilized, will license men to carry on such business, such conduct must be expected and tolerated. W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, April 1, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, March 28, 1871.
There are at this timeTWENTY-NINE VESSELS
in
the Bay ready for sea, by far the largest number that has ever been
here at one time. The southwest wind has prevailed so long that the
channel has closed. At least there are three feet less water on the Bar
than there was last summer; but a few days of northwest wind will again
cut a channel, and calm down the bar so that vessels can again get out.
Several accidents have occurred lately to vessels coming in, but
nothing serious. A wave struck the stern of a schooner, broke the wheel
and crushed the man at the wheel considerable.The ladies connected with the sewing society of the M.E. Church gave A SUPPER
last Friday evening, at the courthouse for the benefit of the parsonage, and realized about fifty dollars.
The parsonage is a good one, and it will be well furnished, as the
ladies have taken it in hand; and the ladies of Empire always
accomplish what they undertake. The Methodists are raising funds to
build a church. They expect to build this summer, and to have it ready
for dedication by the first of September. At present there is not a
church edifice in Coos County.SPRING
is
now upon us in all its beauty. Gardens are being made, trees are
putting forth their leaves, and many flowers are in full bloom. There
are many more wild birds here than in the Willamette; and also more
beautiful singers. One kind sings as sweetly as a well-cultivated
canary. Hummingbirds abound. Speaking of birds reminds me of white wild
geese that come here in the fall--perfectly white. They were very abundant last fall, but disappeared about the first of January.W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, April 8, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, April 15th, 1871.
After a few days fine weather, it commenced storming again last week,
and it has kept it up to the present moment. The "oldest inhabitant"
has never witnessed so "wet a spring" as the present one. Rain, rain,
rain, almost continuously, since the first of February.THE ODD FELLOWS
expect
to have some sort of a celebration on the 26th inst. This order is well
represented here. They have a good lodge room and is it well furnished;
and arrangements are being made for securing a site for a cemetery.
They are, with few exceptions, a noble band of brothers.A PROTRACTED MEETING
is
being carried on by the pastor of this charge, assisted by Rev. J.
Harer of Wilbur. There are but few church members here, yet the
congregations are good and orderly, and the Sunday school is large and
prosperous. At the quarterly meeting which was held last Saturday and
Sabbath, the quarterly conference concluded to hold a camp meeting
embracing the first Sabbath in June. This will be the first camp
meeting held within the bounds of Coos County. You see that we are
somewhat behind the times.THE TEMPERANCE QUESTION
is
being agitated, and the temperance men have resolved that they will be
felt in our next election. We do not think that a third party could
succeed, but if the Republican Party wishes our votes, temperance men
must be nominated. That the Republican Party is entirely free from the
vice we do not claim, but that a majority, a very large majority of
those who manufacture, buy, sell, and use intoxicating liquors are
Democrats, no honest, intelligent person will deny. Therefore the hope
of the temperance cause is the Republican Party. Temperance men must
attend the primary meetings, and select those to attend the county
convention who will nominate true temperance men for office. This done,
the temperance cause and the Republican Party will be successful. If a
different course is pursued, both will be defeated, as a third party
will be formed.W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, April 29, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, April 25th, 1871.
The schooner Margaret Crockard; Capt. Godfrey commanding, wasWRECKED
on
the 18th inst., soon after crossing the Bar. She was loaded with lumber
for the Society Islands. As she was being towed out to sea, she struck
so violently on the Bar as to start every timber in her, but at the
time it was thought no serious damage was incurred. The tug towed her
out to sea, and returned. When she had gone about fifteen miles out,
the steward came on deck and told the captain that water was coming
into the cabin and he believed the hold was full of water. The captain
went below and found water rushing violently into the cabin. He rushed
upon deck, brought the vessel to, and ordered the deck load to be
thrown overboard, but before this could be accomplished she careened
and went over on her beams end. The crew had barely time to secure
ropes with which to lash themselves to the vessel. As she went over
they climbed upon the side and lashed themselves fast. This was late in
the evening. They remained there over night. The next morning the
captain of one of the tugs descried her from the Lookout, and two of
the tugs went to her relief. By this time the tide had brought her
within five miles of the beach. The tug took the crew on board, and
worked all day in trying to right the vessel, but the sea was so rough
they could not succeed. Captain and crew lost everything but the
clothing they had on, but our kind citizens supplied their immediate
wants, and they were furnished by the captains of some of the vessels
plying between here and San Francisco with free passes to the city.W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, May 6, 1871, page 2Our Southern Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE CITY, June 5th, 1871.
Our District Court closed last Saturday evening. This occasion always
draws a great many persons to town, although there may be no case on
the docket of much importance. Our Bar was graced this term by more
than the usual amount of foreign legal talent. Corvallis, Eugene and
Roseburg were well represented. The ladies held theirFANCY FAIR
on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. They realized, clear of all expenses, one hundred and fifty dollars, which for so small a community is remarkably well. The occasion was a very pleasant one.The steamer Alpha, and the tugs Escort and Merrimac were SEIZED
last
Thursday evening, by our Deputy Collector Woodruff, for violation of
law; but they gave bail, and went on their way. The little steamer Argo,
that was seized a few months ago, has been released, and she is
refitted and is now making daily trips to Marshfield and other points
on the Bay and river, to the great delight of our citizens generally.
It has beenRUMORED
that
Judge Skinner is to receive the appointment of Deputy Collector of this
port in the place of E. A. Woodruff, who has resigned. A more suitable
man, or one more deserving than the Judge, could not be found. He is a
true man, and has ever labored for the interests of the Republican
Party; yet he has received no office at their hands, while men far less
deserving than he have been placed in power. Then his interests are
identified with the people of this place, as he owns property here and
expects to make this his future home. His appointment would give
universal satisfaction. The Company that recently purchased theNEW COAL MINE
has
commenced operations, and the prospects so far are favorable. If it
should prove as rich as it is expected to be, its development will be a
great benefit to this county. Mr. Lockhart'sGOLD MINE,
on
the Coquille, has proved richer than even expected. Mr. Larre's claim
is also paying better than ever. It is generally believed that there
are good paying mines in that vicinity that have not been developed.THE ENTRANCE
to
our Bay, which for a time last winter was closed by southerly winds
driving sand into the channel, is now open, and vessels are passing in
and out daily. Southerly winds drive the sand into the channel and
quite close it; but a few days of northerly winds cut it out and render
it as good as ever.W.D.N.
Albany Register, Albany, Oregon, June 10, 1871, page 2COOS BAY IN EARLY TIMES.
Not long since we received a pamphlet containing an account of the
early settlement and settlers of Coos Bay. On looking it over we find
that it presents a great number of historical reminiscences of that
part of Oregon, with personal sketches, description of eccentric
characters, and other interesting matter. The author, there may be
reason to suppose, is S. S. Mann, formerly county judge of Coos
County. A rapid, even though it be a partial, summary of the contents
of the pamphlet will be received with interest by large numbers to whom
the entire sketch is inaccessible; and the Oregonian
is the more desirous to present such summary because it wishes to take
every opportunity to call attention to that important part of our
state, than which no other part has greater resources or is destined to
surer wealth and greatness.Some Account of the Early Settlement and Settlers of Coos Bay--Historical Reminiscences, Etc. Previous to 1853, as the writer says, no white man had a residence on the fertile shores of Coos Bay. The aboriginal Indians alone enjoyed the wealth of game, fish, fruits and berries which were in such abundance as to make an Indian paradise. Prior to that time the locality had indeed been visited by a few whites. A small schooner, bound to Umpqua River, entered Coos Bay by mistake in 1852, and remained for several weeks, hunting for the settlements. At length persons from the Umpqua, learning their condition from the Indians, piloted them out of Coos Bay and into the place of their destination. During the summer of 1853, P. B. Marple, a resident of Jackson County, made an exploration to the coast, passing down the Coquille River. Learning the general character of Coos Bay from the Indians, he deemed it a valuable location. Returning to Jackson County, he formed a company of about forty persons, who, proceeding to Coos Bay, became the pioneers and early settlers of Coos County. Among these are mentioned Marple, Harris, Jackson, Lockhart, Coffin, Tolman, Noble and Boatman. Soon after their advent the discovery of gold sand mines at Randolph made a large addition to their number, and Empire City became the depot of supplies for a large mining population. Vessels with merchandise and men were attracted to it. In the end the mines proved less rich than was anticipated, but the population and capital induced by the excitement remained, and was added to the permanence of the settlement. Among the settlers of this period are named Northrup & Symonds, the originators of the Eastport coal mine; Rogers & Flanagan, pioneers of the Newport coal mine; James Aiken, the principal discoverer of these veins; A. M. Simpson and H. H. Luse, pioneer sawmill owners, Dr. Foley, Yoakum, Winchester and others. The first coal was discovered at North Bend. Soon afterwards similar discoveries were made in several other places. On further exploration these discoveries were abandoned and the mines were opened at other points. The lumber interest has always been an important industry at Coos Bay, though its growth of late years has not kept pace with former expectations. A. M. Simpson built the first saw mill. He has since built many vessels at the bay, which have been employed in the large trade created by the numerous saw mills since erected. In these early days, angel women, "uncertain, coy and hard to please," were commentably few and scarce. Bachelors' halls were in the majority. The occupants were under the necessity of being their own cooks and housekeepers, as well as attending to outdoor avocations. They could cuddle the imaginative "girl I left behind me," to their hearts, and "nothing more." An occasional ball gathered the few beauties, young and old, from far and near, in some rough-boarded room, brilliantly lighted with tallow dips. The "fair" and few shone gorgeously in calico. The bachelors in scores, arrayed in their best, looked on in admiring hopelessness. "Biled shirts" were proscribed as too pretentious. Whoever should dare to appear in one would have been the subject of ridicule. Freed from the ceremonious forms of fashionable life, they "tripped the light fantastic toe" in joyous hilarity "till daylight doth appear." The advent of a marriageable young lady produced a lively sensation. All the bachelors rushed in hot haste to secure a chance in the matrimonial prize. The fair one was perplexed to choose among her many offers; and could select her own time to restore the "lost rib" to some happy swain. This terrible lack of female loveliness and companionship made men desperate. There were many native maidens camped about, who could be purchased from their fond parents for a few pairs of blankets. Rather than live on, hopelessly languishing for fairer loves, many embraced the opportunity and provided themselves with companions from the wigwams of the "noble red man," and lived clandestinely without any marriage ceremony. Suddenly clouds arose, darkening the horizon of their domestic felicity. An order was issued from the Indian Department that all the Indians at Coos Bay should be removed to the Siletz Reservation. This order would ruthlessly include all those dusky companions to whom these men had become attached, turning them adrift again to solitary, single life. These Indian maidens, strange as it may seem, had wound themselves deeply into their affections. They looked with horror upon a separation. Lucky thought, happy discovery! Marriage would make them wives and American citizens beyond the control of Indian agents. The danger was imminent. The emissaries of the Indian Department were gathering the Indians together for removal. There was a rush of these couples to the justices of the peace in the county, and about thirty couples in this vicinity were joined in the bonds of wedlock. Some of them proved faithful wives, and some of their liege lords are respectable, honored, thriving citizens. From this point the pamphlet from which we are condensing is mostly taken up with personal reminiscences and anecdotes of the early settlers. These are of great interest to those who have been acquainted with the persons to whom the sketches and anecdotes refer. But we could wish that the writer had given us with them some further statement of the resources and material development of that important and growing part of our state. Oregonian, Portland, January 31, 1880, page 2 BEFRIENDED THE WHITES
OLD CHIEF DOLOOSE, OF THE COOS BAY TRIBE. Indians Kindly Treated United States Dragoons, Who Were Wrecked Nearly 50 Years Ago.
The early pioneers of Oregon have a vivid remembrance that as they
pushed forward their plans of settlement they had more or less
difficulty with almost every tribe of Indians from the southern
boundary of the state to the British possessions. One tribe on the
Coast, that became known as the Coos Bay Indians, were friendly to the
early settlers, and they even gave protection to their new neighbors
when other tribes adjacent to them were on the warpath. The Coquille
tribe, whose possessions were only 20 miles away, were not so peaceable.
They committed several depredations, one of which was the T'Vault massacre,
which took place in 1851, a few miles above the mouth of the Coquille
River. Five of the 10 men attacked were killed. T'Vault escaped, and
made his way to Port Orford. L. L. Williams and Cyrus Hedden escaped
after a fearful, hand-to-hand fight with the savages. The former was
dangerously wounded. Making their way to Coos Bay, Williams and Hedden
were kindly treated by Doloose, John and George, the three chiefs of
that tribe. It is said that the Coos Bay Indians had erected a rock
pyramid a few miles south of Cape
Arago, and had decreed that no Indian would be permitted to
molest white settlers north of that pile of rock. It often happened
that white men were glad to reach this place when coming from the
south, for they knew that the Coos Bay Indians would not only protect
them from violence, but would supply them with food.
About the time [of] the T'Vault massacre, or soon afterward, Dr. Dart, Spalding and Parrish arrived at Port Orford with two Indian interpreters. Their mission was to look after the tribes along the Coast. Parrish at once proceeded to the scene, being permitted to do so by Superintendent Dart. The chief, Saguami, received him cordially, and gave up the gun and some clothing that he had taken from T'Vault and offered to accompany Mr. Parrish back to Port Orford. On the way the treacherous rascal murdered the unsuspecting Parrish, quartered his body, and, by the aid of his squaw, carried the pieces to the Indian village. [Parrish was unharmed, living until 1895.] These depredations soon reached the ears of the government, and troops were sent by water to Port Orford. The schooner Capt. Lincoln, an old craft of about 300 tons, was sent from Benicia, Cal., with Troop C, First United States Dragoons, consisting of 35 men, commanded by First Lieutenant Henry W. Stanton. The schooner was wrecked about two miles north of Coos Bay bar, then known as "Cowes" or "Kowes" Bay. This was January 2, 1852. The vessel was commanded by Captain Naghel, who succeeded in saving his men and a large amount of cargo, which were sent ashore and a camp established. The Indians, led by Doloose and the two other chiefs, visited the wreck and helped the dragoons to carry freight to camp. They gave the men fish, and did everything possible to assist them in their forlorn condition. H. H. Baldwin, now living at Bandon, at the mouth of the Coquille River, was one of the troopers. Though the Indians seemed kind, the white men expected treachery, but the only bad trait shown by the natives was a disposition to steal small articles from the camp. The company got spars and sails ashore and, as Mr. Baldwin says, "In a few days quite a large and handsome sailcloth village raised its head and graced the sands of that wild beach, the terra incognita of the far West." After remaining three weeks in camp, and constantly associating with the Indians, the troopers were visited by Patrick and James Flanagan, James Maxey, Edward Breen and Peter Johnson, who were engaged in mining at Randolph. They had heard through the natives of the disaster and went for the purpose of giving relief, if needed, but the relief required could be given only by an order from some military officer for them to abandon property. Until Messrs. Flanagan and company visited them they did not know where they were, but they have always felt grateful that they fell into the hands of the docile and friendly Coos Bay Indians. In May, 1854, the Coos Bay Commercial Company was organized at Jacksonville, Or., by P. B. Marple, and a company of about 40 men went to Coos Bay. They first came into contact with the Coquille tribe of Indians, which, though but 20 miles away from Coos Bay, were a distinct tribe. Although they were comparatively friendly, the adventurers saw that it was necessary to watch them closely, as signs of hostility were apparent. As soon as Marple and his associates arrived at their destination they found a better class of natives. Doloose and the other two chiefs were friendly and ready to oblige them, and their friendship continued until, at the close of the Indian war of 1855-56, the Coos Bay tribe was taken to the Siletz Reservation. It is said by the old settlers, who knew the chiefs personally and their tribe, that there are but few of them now living. Some of the young men of the old natives occasionally visit Coos Bay and fish, but they are obliged to obtain permission from those in charge of the reservation. Doloose is still living on Coos Bay. Notwithstanding the friendship shown by the Coos Bay tribes, the people feared that they might be induced by the Coquille natives as well as the bloodthirsty Rogue River savages to massacre the whites; therefore, a company was raised and a fort built at Empire City, where the women and children were placed at night. This was about the time of the massacre at the mouth of Rogue River. Mrs. [Esther M.] Lockhart, the first white woman to settle on Coos Bay, who has filled the chair as president of the Coos County Pioneer and Historical Society, says in one of her interesting reminiscences: "For the first few weeks all went smoothly enough. The Indians were friendly, too friendly in fact, for their calls at the cabin with requests for food became too frequent. Gradually there came mutterings of discontent among them. They looked on us with jealous eyes, and declared we had stolen their illahee (land). Finally, one Sunday, about six weeks after our arrival, a party of 50 or 60 Indians, dressed in war paint and feathers, armed with bows and arrows, with an Umpqua Indian as an interpreter, came to our cabin, demanding that we give up everything and leave at once. We had no right there, they said. We were fighting [sic] the fish from the water, and already there were fewer ducks and geese because of our presence; soon there would be nothing left for the Indian; the paleface would own everything. Mr. Lockhart listened quietly to their threats and complaints and, buckling his revolver about his waist, mounted a stump and addressed them, telling them we had come to stay; that we wanted to help the Indian, and would improve the land so that the country would be better; that the Great Father at Washington had told the white men to come and live there. He finally succeeded in pacifying them, and they said we might stay, but no other people could come. A week afterward the Indians again visited the family, and their demands and insolences caused much anxiety. Mr. Lockhart, who was then living at North Bend, four miles from the fort at Empire, loaded his family and a portion of their supplies into a canoe and paddled down to the fort in the night. The Indians discovered them after they had got well out in the stream, and hallooed, 'Nika clatawa,' ['I go' in Chinook jargon--apparently an error for 'Wake clatawa,' 'Do not go.'] and fired a few arrows, which fell in the water nearby. This was about the only hostile movement that can be remembered to have taken place with this tribe. Mr. Lockhart had a small family of little girls, and one can easily imagine the heartfelt anxiety that the mother felt for the safety of her dear ones when the awful massacre at the mouth of the Rogue River was fresh in their minds." Of the natives along the Coast there were 12 tribes. From their habits and pursuits they were considered as one nation, and were denominated as the To-To-Tin, or Tututni, the latter appellation being applied to them by early visitors. Eight of the bands, or tribes, were located along the coast from the mouth of the Umpqua River to below the mouth of the Rogue River. They had intermarriages, a common language and a common interest. The Nasoma, with Chief John, was located at the mouth of the Coquille River. The Choc-re-le-a-ton band, with Washington as chief, was located at the forks of the Coquille. Each tribe had its villages, hunting and fishing grounds. The whites found these tribes with a kind of patriarchal form of government peculiar to themselves. They were supplied by nature with a liberal hand, and gathered an abundance of subsistence. Wild game was plentiful, and the rivers abounded with fish, and the coast with a great variety of shellfish. They seemed to be free from disease, but showed evident marks of smallpox, as that disease had been among them a decade or two before. Their houses were constructed by excavating a hole in the ground 12 or 16 feet square, and four or five feet deep. Upon the top of these holes boards were placed for the roof. In the gable end a round hole was made sufficiently large for the entrance of one person. The descent was made by passing down a pole upon which rude notches were cut, which served as steps. In the spring they gathered the stalks of wild celery and wild sunflower, and ate them with a relish. Tobacco was the only article cultivated. The Indians spoke of it as having always been cultivated by their fathers; hence it must have been indigenous to the country. They did not seem to have any religious worship. Their idea of a supreme being was extremely vague. They did not seem to know the value of gold and silver. They had shells that traders from the Hudson's Bay Company had traded them for furs, and it was their circulating medium. The shells were of a spiral shape, and their value was calculated by the length or size of the shell. "Hyakwa chick" was the name given to this money. They had no stock, not even the traditional pony. The females of the tribes packed the game from the mountains and dried the fish for winter use. An incident occurred at Empire City, the first town built on Coos Bay, the relation of which may not be out of place at the close of this brief article. Some time after Burton and Venable were murdered, on Dead Man's Slough, a tributary of the Coquille, an Indian came into Empire City with a roll of blankets strapped on his back, and one of the murdered men's names was plainly printed on the outside blanket, which was noticed by the white settlers. The Indian went below the town and entered Doloose's camp. A squad of white men was formed, who went down to the camp. After some difficulty, they found the object of their search, who had been covered up by some of the squaws with a lot of old rubbish. They arrested him, and found to their satisfaction that he had the blankets that belonged to the murdered men. Doloose was perfectly willing to give him up when he saw the evidence of his guilt. A jury was impaneled, a trial had, and the prisoner was condemned to the scaffold. The detail appointed to prepare the gallows cut a long pole and placed the large end on the crotch of a tree at a convenient height. The small end of the pole was lifted up in the air. A rope was adjusted around the neck of the Indian and attached to the pole. At a given signal the long end of the pole was rapidly pulled to the ground, and the Indian was hanged. This was the first execution in Coos County. However, two other Indians who were implicated in the same murder were hanged at Randolph, 20 miles south of Coos Bay. The Indians to a great number witnessed the hanging of the one at Empire City. They seemed to flock in from every quarter, and made doleful sounds as the stern reality of the law's power was carried out. They preserved the peculiar gallows for a long time, utilizing it for the purpose of hanging their dogs, at which times they had general gatherings, and seemed to enjoy the proceeding very much. ORVIL DODGE.
Sunday
Oregonian, March 18, 1900, page 19THE AWAKENING OF COOS BAY
Coos Bay extends inland from the Pacific Ocean, on the Oregon Coast,
about seven miles northeast, and then bends abruptly southeast about
the same distance; its upper bay is protected by a promontory about
four miles wide and five to six hundred feet high. Several tide-water
inlets branch from the main channel, some of them navigable for several
miles at high tide by vessels drawing from ten to fifteen feet of
water. The United States government is now planning very extensive
dredging operations in order to make this not only the safest, but the
most commodious harbor on the long coastline between San Francisco and
Puget Sound, a distance of almost a thousand miles. By MITCHELL MANNERING Rich in standing timber, possessing the only coal measure on the Pacific Coast south of Puget Sound, surrounded by a fine agricultural district, with thriving cities on its borders, Coos Bay, in Southern Oregon, is the latest point on the Pacific Coast to be made a great seaport, and is attracting thousands of home-seekers by its rapidly increasing growth, and assured prosperity. This rich tract has hitherto been neglected by the railroads, and only in recent years have capitalists realized its great natural resources and begun the era of real development. There are four cities: Empire, the oldest settlement near the harbor entrance; North Bend, with its big mills; Marshfield, the largest city, at the head of the bay, and Eastside, newly incorporated, standing opposite Marshfield on the east side of the bay. All are so situated that it is only a question of time when they will probably become one large city. Passenger boats and many larger lumber schooners are engaged in coastwise and foreign commerce, among them the Nann Smith, named for Mr. C. A. Smith's eldest daughter, having a carrying capacity of 2,350,000 feet of lumber; she has carried an immense quantity of timber in the past year, and when the harbor is deepened by local capital a vast increase is expected in the trade. C. A. Smith and L. J. Simpson, representing two great lumber plants, have already each subscribed $10,000 for harbor improvements. Some years ago a short jetty was built which more than met the estimate of the engineers; there is now twenty-one feet of water on the bar at low tide, but forty feet can be obtained, as engineers declare that there is no rock ledge on the bar, and that deepening the channel is an easy matter. Officers of the army engineering corps have made a survey, and from this have recommended to Congress a big appropriation for this purpose. The vast quantity of standing timber in the Coos Bay country can scarcely be realized, for there is probably not another place in the world where so much timber is found near a fine harbor affording manufacturing and shipping advantages. It is estimated that, within a radius of sixty or seventy miles from Coos Bay, and so located that the harbor is the natural outlet, there is something like a hundred billion feet of standing timber; that is, about one-third of the standing timber in Oregon, and one-tenth of that in the entire United States is here. The principal variety is fir, intermixed with spruce, red cedar and the Port Orford or Coos Bay white cedar, which is very valuable in ship building or wherever the lumber is to be subjected to the action of water; there are also maple, ash, alder and myrtle, the latter admitting of a beautiful polish and being extensively used for furniture and residence fittings. Now that the standing timber in the Middle West is rapidly becoming exhausted, lumbermen are transferring their interests to the Pacific Coast. A little over a year ago the C. A. Smith Lumber & Manufacturing Company bought a large tract on Isthmus Inlet, at the head of the bay adjoining Marshfield, and an old mill was purchased and remodeled to turn out lumber to build the new saw mill and its auxiliary structures. There is yet a year's work to be done in constructing additional plants, lumber yards and general improvements, but the Smith Company has now begun to cut lumber in earnest. Seven lumber camps are operated by the firm to supply logs to the mill, which can cut about 30,000 feet of lumber an hour, and when completed will be one of the largest saw mills in the United States; with the other mills, it will make Coos Bay one of the most important American lumber-shipping ports. The Minneapolis mill, owned by Mr. Smith, which is the largest in the world, must close in a few years for want of raw material, and Mr. Smith's vast lumber interests will then be centered on the Pacific Coast. His new Coos Bay plant is strictly modern in design, with all improvements, and is built for permanent business. No expense was spared in procuring the latest and best milling machinery, and it has its own fire protection system, electric lighting plants and water works, a fine machine shop, engine and boiler houses and many other buildings--in fact, it is a little city of itself, standing where a year ago there was only a vacant field. The Smith Company has provided residences for the men with families, a boarding house for the unmarried employees and a beautiful office building where the office force work and live. The latter is three stories high and contains fine sleeping rooms, a first-class restaurant and billiard hall, bowling alley and baths. In this building Mr. Smith and other members of the firm have private apartments which they and their guests occupy when at Marshfield. Lumber to supply local consumption is handled on little cars run on a tramway to the local lumber yard at Marshfield. Eastbound lumber is shipped by water to San Francisco, where, at Bay Point on the Sacramento River, the Smith Company own a large tract of land with water front. Here will be built a town and a planing mill to finish lumber for shipment east by rail, two roads having branches to Bay Point. Finished lumber must be moved by rail, which makes it necessary to ship the lumber in the rough to Bay Point. The Simpson Lumber Company of San Francisco operates at North Bend a large saw mill, sash and door factory, etc. L. J. Simpson, the local manager, is still a young man, and has been prominent in promoting the progress of Coos Bay. He founded the city of North Bend, gave financial aid and personal service and has reason to be proud of the beautiful and prosperous little city of 2500 people, with many factories, fine waterfront and elegant residences, which now stands where five years ago there was only a settlement of four houses. In Coos County there are 400 square miles of coal lands, lying near the surface and easily and cheaply mined; it is a lignite of good quality, and is the only coal found to any extent on the Pacific Coast south of Puget Sound. Here coal has been mined in a small way for years, but capital is now being secured and Coos Bay will doubtless be a great Pacific coaling station. The Southern Pacific Railway Company is enlarging its coal output, and investors are beginning to develop the coal fields. Petroleum is also found here, but has not yet been developed. Coos Bay is building ocean-going schooners and gasoline launches, and has fish canneries, a condensed milk plant, creameries, a furniture factory, cold storage plant, brewery and many other industries. In Marshfield four large concrete and brick business buildings, many smaller stores, and scores of residences and cottages have been or are being erected. All the bay cities are lighted by electricity and have a good water supply, the houses are fitted with modern conveniences, and the retail stores are first-class in every respect. Coos County is an ideal section for the farmer, with its mild winters and luxuriant grazing, choice livestock and improved dairying methods, and the dairymen are getting rich. The orchard and small fruit industry is also rapidly increasing in importance. As a summer resort, Coos Bay has many attractions--beautiful scenery, lakes, rivers abounding in trout, mountains which are the hunter's paradise, and boating and sea bathing are all within easy reach of the bay cities. The climate is healthful; in winter there is rain, but no snow and no severe cold. The summer heat is never excessive, the nights are cool, the days bright and pleasant and the sunshine brilliant. Add to these desirable climatic conditions, the educational and religious advantages and refined social life of the city, and one finds the Coos Bay cities delightful either to reside in or to visit. Railways are needed at Coos Bay; one small road connects Marshfield with the Coquille Valley towns; it is owned by the Southern Pacific, and this company has surveyed a line from Drain over the mountains to Coos Bay. It is understood that a coastline route will be extended to Eureka and San Francisco. Some grading on the line has already been done; bridges have been built and material for work to be done has been brought, so that there is reason to believe that a transcontinental road will make Coos Bay a terminus and so create another seaport outlet on the Pacific Coast. Unlike many new places, Coos Bay is not being "made" by the railroad; she is a little empire by herself, is building up rapidly and could, if she chose, be independent of the rest of the country, but that is not her desire; she is ready for cooperation, and offers to dairymen, farmers and fruit-growers a delightful climate, good health, beautiful home sites, good investments for capitalists or men of moderate means; she beckons the thrifty to come and reap the harvest with her when she becomes a big city, a terminus of a transcontinental railroad and a seaport of importance in the Pacific Ocean commerce, nobly fulfilling her destiny. National Magazine, February 1909, pages 549-551 OLD COOS BAY STAGE LINE, RUN SINCE 1868,
ROSEBURG, Or., April 22.--(Special)--Now that its day is gone, swept
from the scene of usefulness by the establishment of a superior order
of things, it is with a feeling of homesickness that the practically
closed career of the old Coos Bay stage, the "age" in which was
inserted only last week by the advent of the Willamette-Pacific
Railroad, is considered.YIELDS TO RAILROAD Early Method of Transportation Played Important Part in Development of District--Pioneers Retain Memories of Difficulties of Ride-- Auto Took Place of Wagon in 1911. Like the desert flower, whose bloom is brief, the old trans-mountain line was a boon to the thousands who enjoyed its service in the days of the rustic past, but now its triumph is but a memory, yet a remembrance that is cherished because of its close association with the other pioneer institutions of the time. The stage, with its contemporaries, the horse and the rail fence along the road, and the contrivances used on the farm in place of the implements wielded by hand, have taken to the exits before the limelight of the 20th century. The stage in the early development of the Coos Bay territory played an important role, and it was a steady factor in bringing business to Roseburg. Service Started in 1868.
It carried mail and passengers over the mountains as early as 1868, but
since the railroad has become a competitor it will have little to do
besides serving the small communities on the route, and may be
discontinued shortly because of a lack of profits. So large was the
business while it enjoyed the trade alone that competition among the
contractors was keen, and many have been the private stages that
operated and thrived independently.Nowhere in the United States did any country flourish as well and so long as Coos County. It was called the "Hermit County," isolated because of the dangers and hazards involved in reaching it over the treacherous roads. Numerous and thrilling are the tales of hardship and excitement told by the visitors to that section, in "staging" it to reach there, while many said they marveled that they came back alive. Wind, rain, fog and dust are mere details scarcely mentioned, but the jostling of the anatomy from the boulders, the skidding in the dizzy grades, and the jerks, twists and lumberings of the early cumbersome vehicles will never be forgotten. Altogether, however, these experiences are treasured, and today a fracture or a scar obtained on the way becomes a mark of distinction. Auto Replaces Wagon.
It was not always the wagon, however. The stage lost most of its perils
and thrills as early as 1911, when Charles Barnard, now of Eugene, put
the first automobile on the route and made daily trips in the summer
time. This was on the Myrtle Point line, which was built some time
after the old Coos Bay wagon road. Although the mail was discontinued
on the old road for short periods, it was handled there almost steadily
until a couple of years ago, when all mail was routed over the Myrtle
Point road. Today the mail was sent via Eugene over the
Willamette-Pacific Railroad.According to H. C. Stanton, who was one of the early pioneer business men and postmasters of this city, the mail route and stage line to Coos Bay was established in 1868, one year after he received his commission as postmaster. Mr. Stanton served as postmaster for 18 years, and during his term all stages operating out of this city were put on. The others operated to Coles Valley and up the North Umpqua River. Mr. Stanton is now 77, but is still hale and hearty, and delights in narrating the early-day history of Douglas County. He says he has waited patiently for more than 50 years in expectation of witnessing rail connection between Western Oregon and the Coast. With his anticipations realized, Mr. Stanton believes that the next 10 years will witness the greatest development Coos Bay has ever known. Oregonian, Portland, April 23, 1916, page 5 Coos Bay Settlements Almost Three-Quarter Century Old
The early history of Empire City and Coos Bay, Or., is colorful,
picturesque, vivid with the romance brought by the sea, and most
important in the development of Oregon. The early settlers were of a
hardy, adventuresome pioneer stock, that type of citizens who have
steadily pushed our frontier of civilization westward. Hardships,
privations and unknown dangers did not deter them, and it was this
spirit of determination which founded the first settlement on the coast
of southwestern Oregon at Empire City, Coos Bay.Empire City Scene of First Colonization in Southwestern Oregon Coast BY MARY CONN. These pioneers were attracted by stories of gold told by trappers, and while some gold is still being mined from the sand of the ocean beaches, gold is not counted among the present important resources of Coos Bay. Its many other possibilities persuaded them to remain and lay the foundation for the development to follow. The early settlers traversed the dense forests and explored the mountainous regions of southwestern Oregon, where the spruce, fir and cedar had not been disturbed by the white man's ax. Perry B. Marple led the first expedition, which left Jacksonville in July, 1853. Several families in the courageous party have descendants who have since become prominent in Coos County's development, including the Foleys, Nobles, Lockharts, Yoakums, Davises, Harrises and Sanfords. Travel Slow and Hard.
The party traveled by slow, tedious stages, and at times it was
necessary to take the wagons to pieces and carry the luggage through
narrow canyons, impassable to wagons. Instead of oxen, cows were used
to haul the heavily laden wagons, as these would furnish milk in the
unknown country to which they were going. An exploring expedition
previously had been sent into the country, but little was known of the
actual conditions.After many weeks of hardships the party reached the head of navigation on the Umpqua River, at the present site of Scottsburg. At this point rafts were made, on which were loaded all their earthly possessions, including the livestock. From there they floated down the peaceful waters of the Umpqua for some distance. After many tiresome days this courageous expedition first saw the waters of Coos Bay. Its fertile, green valleys, with many miles of inland waterways stretching in every direction, surrounded by hills covered with primeval evergreen forests, gave them new strength for the arduous task before them. The realization that they were now gazing upon the most westward harbor in America was a reward for all their weeks of danger and uncertainty. It was a glorious, sunshiny day, the flowers were in bloom everywhere, covering the hills with gorgeous masses of color, and the trials of the long, tedious trip were soon forgotten as they gazed with wonder at the beauty before them, realizing that they had at last reached their goal, Coos Bay. Natives Prove Friendly.
The only signs of human habitation were the cedar bark wigwams of the
natives, which dotted the sandy shores of the bay. Advance reports
indicated that the Coos Bay Indians were hostile, but, contrary to
beliefs held by many nowadays, their fears were soon allayed, as the
chief made a hospitable call and welcomed the settlers to Coos Bay,
offering the services of himself and the tribe.They furnished the new arrivals with shellfish, their principal article of diet, and taught them how to cook the large Empire clams peculiar to the locality. They rowed the white settlers up the many inlets tributary to the tidal basin and showed them every kindness and consideration. When selecting the site for the future city these early pioneer town builders took into consideration every possibility of the water line of Coos Bay and finally decided upon the present site of Empire as the most desirable location. The ground was level, with miles of deep water frontage within a few miles of the entrance to the harbor, and an adequate supply of pure, fresh water from the lakes and rivers adjoining was available. The settlers filed on donation claims, as they were called, under the law in effect at that time permitting a man and his wife to file on 320 acres. The only requirement was to set up stakes and file papers at the nearest land office, then at Oregon City, and to remain on the land half the time for four years, if conditions permitted. Settlers Join Hands.
Captain William H. Harris, Abraham N. Foley and his wife, Bersheba
Foley, filed on the donation claims on which the original town of
Empire was platted and which was later divided into lots and
apportioned among the settlers. Everybody worked to build the town,
which grew rapidly, becoming the distributing center for all of
southwestern Oregon and the headquarters for all pioneer mining,
lumbering an4 agricultural activities.It was the most important city and financial center of that part of the state. Until 1874 Empire had the only stores in what is now Coos County, although at that time a portion of Curry and Douglas counties were included in it. Empire became the county seat, and all legal proceedings and business of the county were transacted there. It is difficult to realize the handicaps which those early pioneers were forced to overcome in building their town, with no roads through the dense forests to the coast and the only means of travel by boat or pack train over narrow trails. In 1854 the first sawmill was built by H. H. Luse and a man named Moore, and was operated by Mr. Luse until 1882. Lumbering and deep-sea fishing were the chief industries of the town, and the first coal mining done on Coos Bay was at Empire. In 1854 the first cargo of coal was shipped by sailing vessel to San Francisco. Wild game abounded, and hunters had an easy time supplying the colony with meat. Empire was well named, as it proved a veritable empire in itself. Nature provided meat and sea foods of every description, and the country soon became the foremost dairying section in the state of Oregon. It was not until 1871 that it was felt necessary to open a meat market, and Donald McKay and H. B. Whitney started the butcher business. Prior to the opening of the shop the settlers took turns hunting, which was not a difficult task, as geese and ducks were plentiful. An old story says that a man went hunting for elk, and, returning with no meat, was asked why he had not been successful. He replied, "Oh, I saw 300 elk, but they were all spike bucks, and I didn't want to kill such young ones." This may have been exaggerated a bit, but it shows how abundant the game was in the early days. When the whites came there were no oysters at Empire, although large quantities of the shells were in evidence. The Indians said that there had once been many oysters, but that a great fire came in 1800 and burned for many days around the bay, which got so hot that the oysters were killed by the heat and ashes. The story handed down by the historians of the Coos tribe is that the Indians plastered the bottoms of their canoes with mud, put them in the shallow bay water and crawled beneath them to avoid death. At any rate, in recent years whenever the harbor is dredged or excavation work done large quantities of shells are uncovered. All the goods from the civilized world were brought from San Francisco in sailing boats which docked at Empire, discharging freight and ballast and proceeding up the bay to load coal and lumber. Empire's harbor was the best of the bay because of its deep water, and often vessels had to remain at anchor at Empire for considerable time before the tides would permit them to sail up the bay. Empire was a lively community of 1000 persons in those days, and the settlers established schools, hotels, saloons, dance halls and even had a weekly newspaper. Empire had four hotels, all of which had a flourishing trade, particularly the Pioneer. The oldest of the hotels was the Golden Eagle, built in 1854 by the late B. F. Ross, and the others were the Lockhart and the Bushnell. James Crouch built the Pioneer Hotel in 1865, selling it to Mrs. J. J. Jackson in 1869. It was destroyed by fire in 1884 and replaced the same year by a building moved from Utter City. The schoolhouse was built in 1865, and the first public school started with Mrs. E. M. Lockhart, owner of the Lockhart Hotel, as teacher. The building was erected from poles hewn on two sides, with a floor of split cedar. In 1868 a two-story structure, accommodating 50 pupils, was erected on the present site. Boat Building Grows.
Several boats were constructed at Empire, including the schooner Elinor in 1869. Numerous small river craft and steamers came later, such as the Coos,
a sidewheel passenger and freight boat, which was constructed for the
shallow water of Coos River and the many tidal estuaries flowing into
the bay.At this time Empire was the ship-building center for all of southwestern Oregon. The largest sailing vessels on the Pacific Coast and later the steamers made Empire one of the most important ports of call. Without harbor improvements of any kind and without harbor pilots, as all ports have today, those large sailing vessels came in over the bar many years before the sailors thought of improving the harbor. Occasionally a boat would be wrecked, and the first rescue ever made on the bay was that of the brig Jackson, which struck a rock on the South Spit in 1856. Captain J. J. Jackson, father of George Jackson, who now lives at Empire, led the rescue. At the time of the wreck he called for volunteers and only three would go, so dangerous was the undertaking during the stormy weather. Those volunteering were F. G. Lockhart, father of Herbert Lockhart of Marshfield; John Noble, stepson of Captain Jackson, and an Indian. The men made two trips to the scene of the disaster, struggling in a small boat through rough seas, escaping death almost by miracle, and brought 11 survivors to safety. Paper Widely Read.
One of the early newspapers published in the town was called the Pacific Coast Ranger,
typical of country newspapers of that period. Nat L. Baker was editor,
and in 1880 the paper had the distinction of having the largest
circulation of the Pacific Slope, going to a larger number of post
offices than any other Republican paper within a radius of 100 miles,
but now only scattered copies of it remain, and many have forgotten
that it ever existed.The person now residing at Empire who has lived there longest is Mrs. Emily O. Saunders, who was the first white child born in Coos County. She is a member of the Noble family, [which] had the first birth, first marriage and first death in Coos County. Mrs. Saunders was born at Empire April 24, 1854. Louisa Noble, a small child, died in February, 1854, and Elizabeth Noble married Ames Rogers in 1857. Mrs. Noble, formerly Margaret Ann Harrison, after the death of her husband, Curtis Noble, married Captain J. J. Jackson, father of George Jackson. She had crossed the plains in a covered wagon by ox team from Independence, Mo., in 1852, and came to Empire the following year. She had the first vegetable garden in the town, and in the spring of 1854 served the first green peas and new potatoes which were ever grown in Coos County. These came from seed carried across the plains the preceding year. The family moved to Gold Beach, then called Ellensburg, in 1856, and did not return to Empire until 1867. There is one phase of the old Empire that must he mentioned, and that is the social life of the early pioneers. When a dance took place everybody came from far and near to spend the night--and that meant all night---dancing at Empire's dance hall. The crowds would arrive, traveling by foot, horseback or by rowboats, early in the evening and would stay until 6 o'clock next morning. George Jackson, who has spent 60 of the 68 years of his life in Empire, used to call the dances, and many times the two fiddlers would be forced to stop playing because the strings of their violins were worn out. Many a quadrille was danced by the Empire belles and beaux to a tune played on one string of an old-time fiddle. Of course, the usual square dances were popular at that time, and such melodies as the "Arkansas Traveler," "The Devil's Dream" and "The Girl I Left Behind Me" gave just as pleasing music to the young ladies of Empire in their stiffly starched calico dresses with long, puffy skirts and lacy pantalettes, as the modern syncopation thrills the flappers of today in their clinging, abbreviated dresses. The girls furnished the refreshments, too, Mr. Jackson says. They brought good, solid basket lunches, which, combined with coffee, made a hearty supper for the energetic dancers. The men drank a good deal, as there were eight well-patronized saloons in town, but the girls did not join in the drinking. Celebrations were known to last as long as two days and nights, especially on the Fourth of July, which was a gala event everywhere at Empire. Mill Gets Support.
To 1883 H. H. Luce disposed of all his holdings, including the mill, to
the Oregon Southern Improvement Company of Boston, which preceded the
Southern Oregon Company. This group of men, consisting of some of the
shrewdest railroad men in the East, called a meeting in Quincy hall at
Boston June 15, 1883 for the purpose of organizing a company for the
development of Southern Oregon.Numbered among these men were W. W. Crapo, a wealthy railroad operator, who owned the Flint & Pere Marquette Railroad, and Captain William H. Bessee, a whaler of Bedford, Mass., who had visited Coos Bay on whaling trips, and after seeing the harbor and realizing its value as one of the good ports on the Pacific Coast, had conceived the idea of forming a company and constructing a large sawmill at Empire. They voted the sum of $135,000 to Mr. Luse for his holdings at Empire and in 1884 William P. Metcalf, a railroad bridge builder and experienced architect, who constructed the Brooklyn [Bridge?], was placed in charge of this mill, which was modeled after the famous Port Blakely mill on Puget Sound. When completed it was the largest and best mill of its kind anywhere in the country. The mill operated for about a year and then closed down, later being reopened by George W. Loggie, an able mill man who was put in charge. It then ran for four years, during which time it put out the best quality flooring on the Pacific Coast. All other products were high grade, as the timber resources on Coos Bay were excellent. Under the direction of Mr. Loggie the best grades of lumber were manufactured, and the Empire mill became famous for its fine products. Long Timbers Cut.
With the fishing industry, coal mines, vast forests of timber, deep sea
fishing and climatical advantages, together with its natural location
for a city, Empire's future seemed assured among the foremost cities of
the Pacific Coast.One of the most interesting facets of the mill was the long timbers that were cut for spars, masts, deck boards and other parts of the old sailing vessels. It was necessary for other mills on the Pacific Coast to splice these, but the machinery in the Empire mill was equipped with a carriage 150 feet in length, avoiding the necessity of weakening the spars. The mill was believed to have a capacity of 500 M a day. The old Oregon Southern Improvement Company became defunct, and all of its holdings were taken over by a newly organized company headed by Elijah and Prosper Smith, two old bachelors from Boston. This new organization was the Southern Oregon Company, who then owned the 2100 acres of waterfront property, including the mill, since [illegible] to the present year. The mill never operated after the acquisition of the land by this company, and consequently the early pioneers, who had depended upon the large payroll of the mill, were forced to look elsewhere for means of livelihood. At that time Empire's population was 1000, but it gradually diminished until there are fewer than 100 remaining in the once-prosperous city. It is a disheartening thought to go from this gay town, the center of Coos life and activity, to the Empire of today. Many of the old-timers still remain, forever attached to the land which their fathers settled, hoping for better times to come. Gradually the elements and time destroyed many of the buildings, and in 1924 the business district burned. On March 26 of this year the Pioneer Hotel, owned by Mrs. Emily O. Saunders, daughter of Mrs. J. J. Jackson, was destroyed by fire. This was the last of the business establishments of Empire, and a priceless collection of curios, valuable furniture and relics of the old Empire vanished in the flames. As a result of the tragedy of Empire Marshfield developed into a good-sized city, and later North Bend grew up. The county seat was moved from Empire, where all of Coos County's hangings have taken place, to Coquille in 1890. Marshfield, North Bend and the surrounding suburbs have a combined population of more than 15,000, and this is considered the most prosperous community in all southwestern Oregon. The Southern Pacific railroad was built to Coos Bay, and the government is now completing jetties in the entrance to the harbor at a cost of more than $3,000,000, which will place Coos Bay on a parity with the other five Pacific Coast harbors. It is declared to be the only good harbor between the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, and has attained a large payroll with the advent of the railroads, highways and harbor improvement. Sea Fishing Grows.
The resources of Coos Bay consist of 400 square miles of coal land and
180,000,000,000 feet of merchantable timber, one-twelfth of all the
timber in the United States. Since the advent of the railroad deep sea
fishing is becoming important, and in addition to salmon fishing there
is commercial promise for deep sea fishing just off the coast, as large
halibut banks have been located some 20 miles from shore, and black cod
have been caught in large numbers.This fishing has become of great commercial importance, and the value of the annual catch of the Coos Bay fishermen exceeds $2,000,000. Coos County has become a great dairying and agricultural center as well. The interior of Oregon, Southern Idaho and Northern California has other resources, such as minerals, wheat, livestock, hides, wool, fruits and diversified products, which should be and will be manufactured at Coos Bay, the natural distributing center for this vast interior territory. The country tributary to Coos Bay is equal in area to the states of Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and Delaware combined. A new project is well under way at Coos Bay, a project as important and colorful as that great section of the state itself, and that is the revival and rehabilitation of Empire City, one of the most desirable locations for a seaport city on the Pacific Coast. Empire was responsible for all the early development and present growth and prosperity of the country. City Plat Bought.
The Empire Development Company of Empire City, Or., has purchased the
original plat of Empire, 5000 acres adjoining, five miles of deep water
frontage, large stands of timber, the sawmill and numerous docks, and
has secured water rights for a minimum daily supply of 40,000,000
gallons of fresh water, sufficient to meet the future municipal and
industrial requirements of a large city. Free sites are offered to
industries, and many new factories will be constructed there within the
next 12 months.There are rumors that the Hill lines will build to Coos Bay and that several industrial projects are under way. The actual work of improving and clearing the land, grading the streets, installing the water system, building docks and other structures is now proceeding. Empire City, Or., the name of the town forms in the mind images of a thriving metropolis, seething with the ebb and flow of crowds, the distributing point for a vast territory. And Empire is now about to become what the name may connote. "Westward the course of empire takes its way"--that is the motto of the company which plans to put Empire in its rightful place as the gateway of Southern Oregon. The very salt breezes from the ripping bay at Empire's door breathe romance and adventure and accomplishment, and the honorable past which was Empire's deserves to culminate in a glorious future for the most western harbor on America's Pacific Coast. Oregonian, Portland, September 4, 1927, page 10 Last revised September 3, 2025 |
|