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Coos
Bay Oregon Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, COOS BAY,
Jan. 28, '54.
GENTLEMEN:--After
this long silence, I proceed to improve the passing moment by giving
you a few items in relation to the Coos Bay enterprise.Two years have passed since first I found my way into this new region. A year and a half ago I told you of its existence, and of the progress I had then made in its exploration. The Bay was here then--the stone coal was here--the white cedar timber was here--and the gold was here. But the resources of nature, like the marble in the quarry, lay dormant. The wild savage was the lord of the soil and the sea, and the white man was as unknowing to the place as its natives were to him. The scene is now changed. Five miles from the mouth of the Bay Empire City is located, and before its wharf vessels are lying, discharging their freight and receiving their lading. Small boats are plying from it to all parts of the Bay, and pack trains and wagons are loading at it with supplies for the gold diggings, which are only a few miles off. In a word, we have here a city which already presents the appearance of an active seaport town. You will recollect that I told you in a few years all this would come to pass. You then doubted it, and so did many others. When raising and forming Coos Bay Company, at Jacksonville last spring, I stated the same. I told them that all these resources were here, and I showed them specimens. They believed it only in part. I told them what would be the result of a settlement here; but they doubled my predictions. Yet they tried the experiment, and the result has exceeded the expectations of all. Indeed, the Coos Bay and Coquille country present at present the most fruitful field of enterprise anywhere to be found on our great western border. The Bay is large and beautiful--the climate is salubrious--the soil unusually productive--its resources for superior white cedar timber, and for stone coal of excellent quality are unsurpassed--while it is here that the northern extremity of the California and Rogue's River coarse gold range terminates. As a mining region there is, in our opinion, no field in which the laborer is at once so richly rewarded for his toil, so comfortably situated, and so readily and cheaply furnished with supplies, as in the Coos Bay Diggings. Yours,
as ever,
Shasta Courier, March
4, 1854, page
2P. B. MARPLE. Our Correspondence.
COOS BAY, May 2nd, 1854.
Editor of the Umpqua Gazette:DEAR SIR: Observing from the last number of the Gazette that not one of the Coos boys have come forward to tender their services in rendering you some account of what is now doing or likely to done at the Bay, I believe that I must endeavor to do so myself, craving at the same time your indulgence for a correspondent not accustomed to write. As some idea of the different routes from hence to the mines may interest both yourself and your readers, some of whom may probably wish to travel this way, I believe I cannot do better than give a sketch, although a rough one, of a trip I lately made by one of those routes to the Coquille, and from thence to Randolph and Coos by another of them. Towards the end of April, I started from Empire City up the Bay, in company with a friend; and in going along we did not fail to keep our eyes open. At the distance of six miles from Empire City, we reached a coal mine, on a claim owned by Mr. Lockhart. This mine has been opened, and lately supplied thirty tons of coal to the schooner Cynosure, now at the entrance of the Bay; but has been since abandoned, at least for the present, by the miners, who are now at work in Mr. Marple's mine, below the city, getting out coal for the steamer Crescent City. From the coal mine we proceeded up to Mr. Tolman's residence, where we passed the night, and were most hospitably entertained by that gentleman and his lady. I consider that claim the head of navigation for sailing vessels or for steamers of any size; and being sheltered from the strong N.W. winds that generally prevail at Coos during the summer, I conceive it to be a good site for a town; and understanding that Mr. Tolman designs to make it one, I wish him every success in his undertaking. From Marshfield, the name of Mr. Tolman's town, we proceeded next morning twelve miles further, which brought us to the Isthmus, or Panama, as it is styled. The channel from Marshfield to Panama is both narrow and intricate, but I believe navigable by such a boat as the Washington. At Panama we were entertained with the greatest hospitality, by our friend and fellow traveler, Mr. Carter, who fed us on bar meat, which I enjoyed exceedingly, and could not help saying--"Life in the woods for me." Mr. Carter is one of the boys whose tent is always open to friends and travelers, and the only remuneration I could make him for his kindness was to assure him of a warm reception when he visited Empire City. From Mr.Carter's, who, by the by, holds the claim at Panama, we walked across the Isthmus next morning; a mile and a half, and reached the head of a slough leading down to the Coquille River, and about four miles in length. In passing through this slough, which we did in a good boat, called the Kate Noble, we encountered many obstacles in the way of brush and overhanging bushes, so that we had to keep a sharp lookout for our eyes; and we also met with frequent obstructions in the shape of beaver dams, which, notwithstanding our respect for the industry of these little animals, we were obliged to demolish before we could pass. I could not help being struck with the industrious habits of these four-legged animals, from whose example I think the two-legged ones might sometimes take a useful hint. In the space of one night, the beavers in this slough will repair all damage caused by the ruthless hand of man; so that they must either be very industrious, or their name is legion. On arriving at the mouth of the slough, the Coquille opened to our view. We immediately engaged a canoe and descended the river to its mouth; and a more beautiful river, or one better fitted for steam navigation, I have not yet seen in Oregon. I am informed, also, that for twenty-five miles further up, that is to the forks, it is exactly the same. From the slough to the mouth is called twenty-five miles. On arriving at the mouth of the Coquille, we slept there, and next morning examined the entrance, which I consider impracticable for sailing vessels; but I doubt not but that in calm weather a small steamer might enter with safety--always, of course, choosing the proper time and tide. From the mouth, or a little above it, we were ferried over the next morning, and traveled along the beach to Randolph. During this walk, and on nearing Randolph, we had an opportunity of examining the mines, and the men at work in them. From what I have seen and learned there, I am of opinion that a considerable quantity of gold will be produced there during the summer; but the produce will principally be derived from a few claims--the scarcity of water rendering many otherwise valuable claims almost if not entirely useless. On arriving at Randolph, we were much pleased on two accounts--the appearance of the city, and its situation, which is really pretty; but our greatest reason to be satisfied was with the idea that our journey, for that day at least, was at an end--as however romantic it may appear to walk along the beach, the feet appear not to go into that idea at all. We remained one night at Randolph, where we met with every kindness from Major Ball and Mr. Conolly. The latter of these gentlemen keeps a hotel, which certainly does honor to a place of such recent growth as Randolph, and might even make places of far longer standing bow their heads and acknowledge the corn--as witness Scottsburg. From Randolph, we started next morning for Coos, mounted on a couple of horses furnished by the kindness of Major Ball, and took the mule trail, which I must say is a rascally road for the first half of the distance from Randolph, and made both ourselves and horses groan during the performance. At the same time I give full credit to the Coos Bay Company, to whom, I understand, belongs the honor of first projecting and carrying out this route, and which must have been some expense. We reached Empire City in the evening, so thoroughly tired out that I only managed with difficulty to descend from the saddle. I have now, Mr. Editor, given you my views from personal experience of two routes from Empire City or Coos Bay to the coast or Randolph mines, and of the two I greatly prefer the route via Panama and the slough, notwithstanding the beaver dams and other obstructions. The company here have lately commenced building a wharf, which seems to be going ahead; and at Marple's coal mine work also seems to move along--at all events, they have the right sort of men at work there to dig and produce coal, if it is to be found in the bowels of Coos Bay; and from what I have myself observed, I begin to believe that it may yet be forthcoming. Yours, sincerely,
Umpqua Weekly Gazette, Scottsburg, Oregon, May 12, 1854, page 2COOS T. Our Correspondence.
COOS BAY, May 8th, 1854.
To the Editor of the Umpqua Gazette:SIR: Should all the citizens of Southern Oregon form the same opinion of your enterprise and exertions, displayed in your first number, they will, as I now do, congratulate you on its appearance; and without flattery, of which I am never guilty, I think you deserve great praise for your items of local, and selection from foreign news contained in that number, making due allowance for not yet having yet had time to regulate your exchanges. The printer and his deed are also entitled to their full quantum of praise. I had long ago adopted your own motto, as expressed to your subscribers, Liberality and Justice to all parties, both as regards politics and locations; and I had also formed the same opinion of farmers; so that we seem to have jumped to the same conclusions. Farmers are undoubtedly the bone and marrow of Oregon; but at the same time they must be liberal, in order to keep up with the times; and be so not only in patronizing the Gazette, but also in allowing us poor merchants to suck a little of their marrow, especially when we sell cheap. With such sentiments, Mr. Editor, as I have just endeavored to express, you will find, I believe, that all my communications will savor more or less of Liberality and Justice. I am glad to observe that the citizens of Scottsburg are pushing along their wagon road, which, in my opinion, cannot fail to reward their exertions, and remunerate them and settlers for the expenses incurred in carrying it into effect. Every public road made, or every public road improved, I look upon as a benefit to Oregon in general, and to take a more just and expansive view of the matter, even to great Uncle Sam himself; and if he is now entitled to the appellation of great, which he assuredly is, he may thank the enterprise of his citizens for it. It pleases me greatly to see things move ahead on the Pacific Coast, and I think Coos Bay well deserving of notice. There is now here an extensive wharf in progress of erection, several stores are going up, and coal is being taken out; so that a brisk trade is only wanting to show that the Coos Bay people are prepared to do business. Randolph is also worthy of notice in your paper. It has grown up like a mushroom, so rapid has been its rise; and I trust it may have a much longer duration. Little & Co. have opened a saloon there lately that would not disgrace even San Francisco. It strikes me that the Scottsburg and Coos Bay citizens should unite in procuring an Indian to carry an express to and from the mouth of the Umpqua, in order to receive and forward letters and papers regularly, as here we have now Monday, and still no appearance of the Gazette, nor of our letters by last Friday's mail. I shall cheerfully contribute my mite towards such an arrangement, and I believe it will prove of great benefit both to yourself and readers. Wishing you, Mr. Editor, every success in your praiseworthy undertaking, I am Your friend,
Umpqua Weekly Gazette, Scottsburg, Oregon, May 12, 1854, page 2A CITIZEN OF THE WORLD. Coos Bay Correspondence of the
Statesman.
Terrible Storm--Thunder and Lightning. EMPIRE
CITY, Jan. 4, 1857.
FRIEND
BUSH:--There
passed over this place last week one of the most terrific storms,
accompanied by thunder and lightning, that was ever known on this
coast. The brig S. R.
Jackson,
lying at anchor near the mouth of the bay, waiting an opportunity to go
to sea, was struck by lightning, and her mainmast completely destroyed,
the [electrical] fluid passing through the deck, entering the cabin,
displacing chairs and tables, tearing off the side of a berth, and
shivering the steps of the companionway to atoms. It then
entered the
hold of the vessel, destroyed in its course some hundred bushels of
potatoes, and passed through the side above water.The most remarkable fact is that no one was hurt or affected in the slightest manner, except the captain, and he only feeling a jar and a slight numbness for a few minutes. One of the passengers who had retired had a bottle of gin under his head, which was broken without his being aware how it was done. There were eight or ten persons on board at the time. A portion of the mast, in falling, pierced the deck of the cabin some two feet, yet no one was hurt. The gaff-topsail was pierced through and through by the lightning, and looked as though it had been eaten by the rats. The damage done is estimated at eight hundred or one thousand dollars. She was obliged to put back for repairs. There was a tree struck in town during the same storm, without doing any particular damage. On the other side of the bay from here, the scow used for the ferry was moored with a rope cable; it was found on this side next day, all stove in pieces. How it was so completely broken up in one night, unless struck by lightning, is hard to conjecture. The present winter thus far is said to be [the] most unpleasant ever known here. Snow fell in sufficient quantity to cover the ground, for.the first time this season, last night; it remains still, and more is occasionally falling. The thermometer stands tonight at 36--six [sic] degrees above the freezing point. This place is at present quite dull, owing in some measure to many being gone to the new mines, and waiting there for the waters to run down, when all expect to do well. I think, from what I can learn, there can be no doubt but they will meet with good success; all that have visited the mines speak highly of them; they are distant from here about two days travel. There are a few way down here in Coos that regret very much the impossibility of being with the Democracy at Salem on the 8th. Distance and bad weather must be our excuse. Consider us there in spirit and feeling; we have just heard down here that Mr. Buchanan is elected. The true lovers of the Union as it is are much rejoiced at the result. Yours, truly, [unsigned]
Oregon Statesman, Salem,
January 20, 1857, page
2COOS COUNTY.--From a letter published in the Advocate we obtain the following in regard to Coos County: Empire City is a pretty little seaport town, situated on the south side of Coos Bay, about four miles east of its mouth. It is quite a thriving town; has three stores, two saloons, and three hotels. The county of which Empire City is the county seat consists of Coos River Valley, which is settled twelve miles above its mouth, and Coquille River Valley, which is settled for seventy miles from where the river empties into the ocean. There are two large saw mills on the bay, which employ from twenty-five to thirty hands each, besides many who are employed in rafting and cutting logs to supply the mills. The two valleys alluded to are being settled up fast and the large trees are made to feel the woodman's ax, that room may be made for the cultivation of the rich soil. Randolph is another place of some importance. It is situated near the mouth of the Coquille River. There are some good mines here. There is a report that new diggings have been discovered near by, but I shall not place implicit confidence in it until confirmed by more thorough investigation. The Coquille River is navigated by one small vessel, of forty tons, and it is reported that another will be put on, to ply between its mouth and San Francisco, next summer. Oregon City Enterprise, April 6, 1867, page 1 COOS BAY.--We quote the following from a letter from Coos Bay, dated July 12th: "Coos Bay is about fourteen miles long by one and a half to two and a half miles wide. The main bay lies northeast and southwest, with an elbow in the upper bay running north and south. At its mouth the United States have established a lighthouse, with a fine light of the second class. The bar at the entrance has from fourteen to sixteen feet of water at high tide, enabling vessels of a large class to enter. At the head of the bay Coos River comes in. which extends inland some twenty-five miles, affording fine bottoms for farms. On the south shore of the bay, four miles from the ocean, Empire City is situated, which contains Captain Luse's fine steam lumber mill with sufficient capacity for turning out fifteen or twenty thousand feet of lumber per day. It also contains three stories, three hotels, a line schoolhouse, public hall for the Good Templars of which they have a thriving lodge two organized churches, etc. Empire is also the county seat of Coos County, with the county officers all in a prosperous condition. Business is quite brisk here, with a demand for more laborers. Nearly opposite the town a new company have recently started a fishery. Further up the Bay four miles around the Elbow, in a sheltered place from the winds of winter, is the thriving point called North Bend, owned and built by Capt. A. M. Simpson, who runs a fine mill with the capacity of thirty to forty M. feet per day. The Captain also runs his lumber in his own vessels, of which he has four and another nearly completed, which is the largest sail vessel ever built on the Pacific Coast. Four miles above North Bend Mr. Bushbecker is building a new mill which is to cut twenty M. feet per day. The latter place is named Marshfield, near which the coal mines are located, from which they ship six hundred tons per month to S.F., making in all quite a large show of shipping from Coos Bay. At the three points named they employ seven vessels constantly, ranging from two hundred to three hundred tons burden, and one huge steam tug for towing vessels in. Two more tugs are to be built on this Bay this summer, and another vessel. Coos Bay coal seems to be abundant everywhere in the divide between Empire City and the Coquille; yet mostly undeveloped for want of capital and labor. Lumbering and coal mining, and indeed all the industrial enterprises of Coos Bay, are yet in their infancy. Time and energy will bring forth and garner her hidden resources. Oregon City Enterprise, July 27, 1867, page 2 From Empire City.
EMPIRE
CITY, Dec. 6, 1869.
ED.
STATESMAN.--As
I seldom perceive any communications in your excellent paper from this
place, I propose giving the numerous readers of the Statesman an
occasional view of matters and things on Coos Bay.Cutting Timber on Government Land.
Some time ago a report reached this place that numerous persons upon
the Bay, and identified with the lumbering interests, had been
presented before the U.S. grand jury for the crime of cutting timber on
government lands. As regards the probability and the truth of this
allegation, nothing definite is known by your correspondent; yet, in
view of all the facts connected with the manufacture of lumber on the
Bay, and the timber taken from government or unsurveyed lands,
ungracious and unjust would be the jury or court that would procure the
conviction of persons so situated, for numerous reasons, a few of which
I hope you will allow me space to mention. Universally, since the
settlement of our frontier territories was commenced, the most liberal
inducements and friendly aid have been afforded and pledged by the
government. Coos Bay was settled by a band of hardy pioneers, at an
early day in the history of Oregon. There is but a small portion of
tillable land included within the limits of the county, and the immense
forests of timber afforded many facilities for the manufacture of
lumber, and persons became therefore necessarily engaged therein, and
some of them, by hard labor and incessant toil, have secured quite a
competency. Every effort they could devise to have the lands surveyed
and brought into market they have not failed to employ. Petition after
petition have been sent to the heads of department praying for a survey
of these lands, but they have been unheeded. These persons are willing
and ready to pay a reasonable price for the lands and the timber
thereon; and now, to indite, prosecute and embarrass them is not only
unjust and reprehensible, but villainous and mean. The annual fires
raging in these forests destroy more timber in one day than the mills
can or have manufactured since their commencement. Such is a limited
view of this matter, which interests and involves many of the "hardy
sons of toil" known as "the loggers."Sundry Items.
The
schooner Alaska,
Capt. Godfrey, was wrecked on the 30th day of November last, while
trying to get out over the Coquille River bar. The cargo consisted of
lumber, which, with the vessel, will prove a total loss. The wreck was
sold at auction, and purchased by the Johnson Bros. for a nominal sum.The health of Dr. Herman continues in a precarious condition, and his many friends and acquaintances are much alarmed for his recovery. He certainly has their earnest sympathies in his prolonged suffering. Favorable reports continue to come from the gold mines on the coast. Some persons of Empire City are interested in them to a large amount, among whom I may mention Mr. T. G. Sockart, Mr. A. Moody, our efficient Sheriff, and Mr. H. Wyckoff, our County Treasurer. The Independent Order of Odd Fellows have a flourishing lodge in Empire City, which was organized some time in August last with eight members, and now numbers near fifty. The Masons have a lodge just organized at Marshfield, some eight miles from this place. The weather continues fine up to date. MORE
ANON.
Oregon Statesman, Salem,
December 17, 1869, page
2Correspondence.
ED.
SENTINEL:--A few items from our coast may
perhaps add interest to your paper; if so, you are welcome to the
following:Coos Bay is a beautiful sheet of water, situated in Coos County, Oregon, about twenty miles long and one mile wide. The bar, at the mouth of the Bay, is considered very good for vessels drawing twelve to fourteen feet of water. The lumbering business is carried on to a considerable extent, there being three large saw mills in full operation, one at Marshfield, one at North Bend, and one at Empire City. Last week fifteen vessels crossed the bar, loaded with lumber and coal, bound for San Francisco and San Diego, Cal. On the 17th inst., the brig Ida C. Rogers was wrecked, while entering this harbor. Owing to the thick fog the captain of the tug boat Fearless, who had her in tow, could not see the channel. The Fearless also came very near being wrecked, and would have been, had she not received assistance from the tug Escort, which, in answer to the sign of distress, hastened to relieve her. The Ida C. Rogers sank in thirty feet of water, just inside the Bar, with several tons of merchandise belonging to Messrs. Flanagan & Mann, owners of the Eastport coal mines. The vessel went down so quick that the crew had barely time to launch their lifeboat. They were all saved, but lost all their clothing, &c. Dr. Herman, an old and highly respected citizen of this county, died on the 16th inst., at his residence on the Coquille River. The Doctor was respected as a good citizen, a skillful physician, and a kind neighbor; he is a great loss to his large family and to the people of this county. We are having a mild and pleasant winter here, and times are quite lively. ANON.
Empire City, Dec. 19th, 1870.Stat.Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, January 1, 1870, page 2 Letter from Coos.
EMPIRE
CITY, Jan. 16th, 1870.
ED.
STATESMAN:--The
Scriptures informs us that where "little is given little is required."
So in our case, where little transpires, but little news may be
expected. The good people of Coos Bay were somewhat panic-stricken a
few days since to see appear in our midst the U.S. District Attorney,
Mr. Cartwright, and U.S. Marshal Young. Fears of warrants and
arrests--visions of dungeons and prisons--hastily flitted across the
public mind. But a genial smile and pleasant greetings soon dispelled
the accumulating fears; and it is believed by the parties at present
that a satisfactory arrangement of this affair concerning the taking of
timber from the government lands can be had.The community of Empire City have been honored with a visit from Col. Craig, the "bilk." He soon commenced his confidence operations, representing himself as a physician, Confederate surgeon, missionary, &c. If the good people of Corvallis, Salem or Albany want a writ of arrest, now is a favorable opportunity, for officers are ready and willing. Empire City is improving very rapidly. Many substantial buildings are being erected; among others may be mentioned a town hall by A. C. Rogers, 32x60. Empire contains at present six hotels, four saloons, four dry goods stores, two drugstores, three law offices, and a number of fine dwellings. The Independent Order of Good Templars have a flourishing lodge of some sixty members. The second quarter of the district school under the supervision of Miss Annie West is near its close, and has been very acceptable to patrons generally. The weather is fine at present. More anon. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem,
January 28, 1870, page
2Letter from Coos.
EMPIRE
CITY, Feb. 29, 1870.
ED.
STATESMAN:--Since
writing my last, there has been a dearth of news items. The people are
talking of the approaching election, and both political parties are
marshaling and mustering their forces for the campaign. The Union
Republican Party are confident of carrying Coos and Curry counties by
increased majorities. The defunct, rotten, polluted carcass of
Democracy will be totally demolished, and the putrid remains be
scattered forever. The success of the administration of President Grant
has lowered their topsails. The Union party is united, and will be as
one man in the approaching canvass. The course of Oregon's noble
Senator, Geo H. Williams, has given entire satisfaction to us, as well
as to all other sections. Candidates are getting numerous as the
convention approaches. Among those mentioned in connection with the
nomination for joint representative with Curry are S. S. Mann, D. L.
Watson, Esq., and others. Coos River precinct is the banner precinct in
Coos County, as there is but one Democrat in a poll of nearly 50 votes.
I lately had occasion to visit that part of the county, and was much
struck with the great beauty of the country and fertility of the soil.
Vegetables are produced upon Coos River, that for size, quality and
quantity will successfully compete with any in the world. There are
many fine locations on the river, and some beautiful dwellings; among
others I may mention Martin Davis' and Hanson Rogers'. Mr. A. B. Colver
has the mammoth orchard of Oregon, I think, containing over ten
thousand large and bearing trees. Mr. Colver exports large quantities
of fruit every year. The hearts of the good people are as large as
their orchards and vegetable productions, as your correspondent can
testify from the amiable and clever way in which they ministered to his
wants. The young ladies, blooming and fair, made quite an impression
upon my companion, who was an "unprotected youth from town," and upon
the voyage homeward was somewhat "looney." After so much nonsense, Mr.
Editor, I will add a few sundry items.On the 21st day of' the present month the bark Charles Devens, while going out over the bar, in tow of the Fearless, made a shear and struck upon a sand bank known as North Spit. The sea being rough, she was thrown with much violence against the bank, and all attempts to save her failed. She, with her cargo, consisting of lumber, will prove a total loss. The Charles Devens has quite a history. She was built in Newport, R.I., twenty-three years ago, and was the first vessel that ever made regular trips between San Francisco and Portland. After an eventful career and many narrow escapes, she now lies at the mercy of the waves, at the entrance of Coos Bay. The birthday of Washington was properly observed here; the flags were displayed from the town and vessels in the harbor, and in the evening a ball was given by A. C. Rogers, Esq. The lovers of fun seemed to enjoy themselves, and "tripped the light fantastic toe" until near morning. A splendid supper was prepared by mine host, Mr. Bushnell, and his amiable lady, which was duly appreciated by all, as well as your correspondent. The weather is rather stormy, and is unfavorable for shipping. More anon. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem,
March 11, 1870, page
2These counties, situated in the southwest part of the state, on the Pacific Ocean, are so nearly alike in their soil, climate, and general resources that the Committee have thought best to give a general description of both under the same head. The united area of these counties is 2,132,000 acres, their population about 1,300, and their united assessed property valuation $364,083. The estimated amount of land under cultivation is between five and six thousand acres. The following statement is made by Ex-Gov. A. C. Gibbs, who has traveled over the country, and is familiar with its character and resources: Curry County is the southwestern county in the state, and includes Cape Blanco, the most western point of land in Oregon, at which point a lighthouse is to be erected during the present year. The Pacific Ocean forms the western boundary of the county. This section is generally hilly and broken, and mostly covered with timber, though there is a number of very rich prairies and valleys. Some of the prairies extend for a number of miles up and down the cost, and are covered with a heavy growth of nutritious wild grass. There are other prairies further back. The soil is rich, even to the tons of the hills. The timber is fir, spruce, alder, oak, soft maple, and white and red cedar. The white cedar is the best finishing lumber to be found on the coast, and while it has been a leading article of export for twelve years or more, still the supply is abundant, though lumbermen have to go further back to obtain it. It is common to find a cedar tree extending over a hundred feet without a knot or limb. It finds a ready market in California, the Sandwich Islands, and even China. All kinds of grain (excepting corn), as well as vegetables, are adapted to this section. The moisture from the ocean renders this county, like all others west of the Coast Range of mountains, better adapted to grazing than the country in the interior of the state. There is also less rain in winter west of the Coast Range than there is between the coast Range and the Cascade Mountains. The weather is also milder in winter. Large bands cf elk are frequently seen. During the early settlement of the prairies along the coast, it was common to see twenty grazing together. Deer are still abundant. At the mouths of the Coquille and Rogue rivers are harbors that have been used by small vessels, to some extent. At Port Orford there is good anchorage, and a roadstead well protected, excepting from the southwest. This is the principal shipping port, and steamers frequently stop in on their way up and down the coast. Coal, copper, silver and gold are found at different places. Gold mining has been found remunerative in many places, principally however along the coast just above the summer tide line, or where the sea has receded, in the sand. These mines are inexhaustible, as the high tides and seas of winter bring a fresh supply of sand mixed with dust, for the coming summer's work. The copper mines and quartz ledges will be worked to advantage at some future day. Recent developments of quartz ledges are said to be very flattering. Considerable capital is required to work such mines successfully. Besides the rivers named, there are several smaller streams putting into the ocean, in all of which, in the spring and fall large quantities of the finest salmon may be easily caught. They are a staple article of export, and the business of exporting them will largely increase as the art of preserving them fresh in cans is better understood. Cod and other fish are also caught with hook and line at Port Orford. There are also banks near the mouth of Rogue River where codfish may be caught. Much of the timber country is easily cleared during the long, dry summers, thus the best of farms are made along the streams, even where there are no prairies. Bees have been imported, and do remarkable well, and the honey is better than that gathered on the large prairies in the interior. There is a road from Crescent City, California, up the coast to the mouth of Umpqua River; also from Port Orford back into the Umpqua Valley. Another leads from tide water on the Coquille River to Roseburg. Coos County.--All that has been said in relation to climate, soil, timber, and products of Curry County applies equally well to Coos, which bounds it on the north. Coos Bay is the leading seaport in Southern Oregon. Empire City, about four miles from its mouth, is the county seat. There is a number of steam saw mills on the bay, doing a large and thriving business. Spruce and other timber has been found of a superior quality for ship-building. A number of vessels have been built at Simpson's mills, and it is believed there is no other place in the United States where as good vessels can be built for less money. There are extensive coal fields very near the bay, which have been successfully worked for over ten years. The principal market tor coal is in San Francisco, where the Coos Bay coal is said to command a better price than any other found on the Pacific Coast. These extensive coal beds add greatly to the commercial interest of the bay, and wealth of the county. There are rich gold mines in the southern part of the county, and the indications of silver, copper, and iron are seen. Congress made a grant of land for the construction of a wagon road from tide water on Coos River to Roseburg, in Douglas County, and a joint stock company has begun the work. With this road completed, Coos Bay will command the trade of Umpqua and part of Rogue River valleys. A greater variety of fish is found in the bay than at any other place in the state. That fact, though not fully appreciated at present, adds greatly to the prospective wealth of the county. These two counties are distinguished for their living springs and streams of pure, cold water, and the general good health of the country. Those in search of either, need look no further. The Weekly Enterprise, Oregon City, April 9, 1870, page 1 Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, May 2, 1870.
ED.
STATESMAN: Dear Sir--I will
avail myself the present opportunity to inform the numerous readers of
the Statesman
of matters and things in Coos County generally. Politics are the
all-absorbing theme, and as much capital has been manufactured by the
unterrified Democracy out of certain transactions and actions of the
Union Republican Party in this county, I propose giving you some
account of this matter.The Republican County Convention met on the 26th day of March and nominated a county ticket for Coos County, and D. L. Watson for joint representative. There was much competition for the officers, and as a matter of course some dissatisfaction was expressed at the action of the convention. This, together with some local causes and prejudices, being brought to bear, the respective candidates for County Judge, Sheriff, Clerk, Commissioners, School Superintendent, resigned. A new convention was called to fill those vacancies, which met on the 23rd of April and proceeded to fill the vacancies. Our county ticket at present is as follows: Joint Representative D. S. Walton, of Empire City, a young man of ability, who will, if elected, faithfully and truly represent the people of Coos and Curry counties in advocating their interests and that of the Republican Party. Our candidate for County Judge is the Hon. S. S. Mann, who has been Judge for this county for eight years, and I venture to say a more just and eminently qualified individual is not to be found among the judges of the state. For Sheriff, we have A. J. Moody. of whom I need say no more than that he has been elected sheriff three successive times, and is again before the people by the spontaneous action of the convention. For Clerk, Mr. Gilbert, a gentleman well qualified for that position. For Commissioners, J. Roulre and C. Warner; for Treasurer, A. C. Rogers; for Assessor, D. Giles; for Surveyor, T. M. Bridges; for School Superintendent, C. W. Tower, a graduate of Harvard, and well fitted for any position. For Coroner, M. N. Worth. This ticket is a very strong one and will be elected by a handsome majority, all the efforts of Lockhart (Copperhead) and company to the contrary notwithstanding. The Republican Party here is increasing in strength every day; new accessions to our ranks are continually coming in, and to our co-laborers in the state elsewhere, we send words of cheer. Our state and judicial ticket give supreme satisfaction, and we shall roll up such a majority from Coos and Curry next June as shall cause repudiation and repudiators to quake like aspen leaves. There is little news of importance. An Indian was brought before Justice Roberts a few days since charged with assaulting A. H Hunch with a knife, but after a hearing, was discharged. The parties engaged in trying to raise the J. C. Rogers, a vessel wrecked some time since, have abandoned the undertaking. The weather is somewhat stormy at present. JUSTINO.
Oregon Statesman, Salem,
May 20, 1870, page
1Empire City Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, Jan. 3, 1871.
COOS
RIVER
is
navigable about ten miles. The "North" and "South Forks" unite about
five miles from its junction with the Bay, and each fork is navigable
for about five miles. The main river, and each fork, is walled in with
high, precipitous mountains. The soil of the "bottoms" is very rich,
but the bottoms are very narrow--not being more than half a mile wide
in the widest places; and, in many instances, the mountains--several of
them solid granite--come to the water's edge. The river is very
crooked, and in its bends and narrow bottoms are many nice little
farms. But farming here is very different from farming in the
Willamette Valley. The largest farms here consist of about twenty acres
of tillable land--some consist of five or six acres. The principal
products are garden vegetables and apples. There are some as fine
orchards as I ever saw in the Willamette. Some oats are raised, for
hay, and a little wheat, for chicken feed. All the flour that is used
here comes from San Francisco, as there is no flouring mill in this
part of the country. No wagons are used on the farms. In fact there arc
but two or three wagons on the river, and not more than that number of
farms on which they could be used to advantage. Previous to last Sept.
the farmers had to transport their produce to market in open boats,
which was very laborious and, at times, dangerous. Two little steamers
are now making regular trips, twice a week, up the river. Some apples
are shipped to San Francisco, but a ready market is found for most of
the produce at the towns and coal mines on the bay. Land on the river
is valued at from fifteen to twenty dollars per acre.The weather is still remarkably pleasant, the thermometer ranging from 45° to 50°, and very little rain. Frogs keep up their croaking, and flies and gnats, though not as abundant as in the summer, are yet in sufficient quantities to make their presence known. There is some excitement about the "terminus" on the Columbia River; and one of our wealthiest men talks of moving his business to that place about the first of next March. At any rate he will visit it at that time to sec what he can do. In my other communication, the place left blank should have been filled with fifteen thousand, as that is the number of feet our mills cut per day. The Register visits us regularly, and all appreciate it very highly. Yours
Truly, W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, February 11, 1871, page
2Empire City Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, Feb. 7th, 1871.
COAL
abounds
on Coos Bay. Thirteen hundred acres of wild, mountainous land, on which
coal has been discovered, sold recently tor fourteen thousand dollars.
Last week another vein was discovered, on unsurveyed land, by two
gentlemen who have since taken it under the homestead law. Ten thousand dollars
will open this vein--so say men who are supposed to know. Fifty thousand dollars
have been spent in opening one of the veins which is now worked, on the
Bay.Last Wednesday evening THE
GOOD TEMPLARS
installed
their officers for the ensuing quarter. Dr. North was installed as WCT;
Mrs. E. H. Woodruff, WVT; Miss Eva Lockhart, WS; E. A. Woodruff, WFS;
O. E. Smith, WM; Mr. Finch, WDM; Mrs. Philips, WT; Miss Florine
Woodruff, WIG; Charles Getty, WOG; Miss Alice Stokes, WRS; Miss Ella
Lockhart, WLS; Miss Addie Vandervort, WC.The lodge seems to be on the decline, yet it has done much good in this place. The weather last week was quite fine, but it commenced raining last Saturday, and it has been quite stormy ever since. SMELT
are
now caught in large quantities by the Indians, and sold to the citizens
of Empire at fifty cents a wooden pailful, or $1.50 per bushel. W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, February 18, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, Feb. 28th, 1871.
STORMY
WEATHER
prevailed
most of last week, which has rendered the bar at the mouth of the Bay
quite rough, but this morning it cleared off and it now bids fair to be
fine for some time. Four vessels were seen outside last evening, but
the bar was too rough to permit the tugs to bring them in. Sometimes
vessels have laid off the bar three weeks before the tugs would venture
to bring them in. A few weeks ago, one came up from San Francisco in
four days, and then on account of stormy weather had to lay off seventeen days.There are three tugs here, one owned by Mr. Pushbacker, of Marshfield, and the others by the North Bend Company. As LUMBER
is
very dull sale in San Francisco, times are quite dull here. Mr. Luse,
the owner of the mill at Empire, has sent one of his vessels to Callas,
in South America, to see if he can open the trade for lumber in that
part of the world. If lumber does not "come up," our only hope of
better times is in the coal mines; but as it is confidently believed
that another mine will be opened this summer, by a company from San
Francisco, we have not much to fear.As this is not an agricultural county, the land on the river being heavily timbered, STOCK
has
to be well fed during the fall and winter, or they become quite poor.
Most of the beef that is used here at this season of the year comes
from the Coquille, distance thirty miles. It is not very good, yet a
choice cut commands fifteen
cents a pound.One great drawback to this country is the want of A GOOD
WAGON ROAD
to
the Umpqua Valley. At present there is but an indifferent trail, but a
route is now being surveyed for a road, and by next fall we hope to
have a good wagon road connecting Roseburg with this place, or with
Coos River.WASHINGTON'S
BIRTHDAY
was
celebrated by a vessel, which was lying out in the bay, firing a
fifteen-pounder occasionally during the entire day, and by an impromptu
ball at the courthouse in the evening. By the way, almost every
celebration or dedication has to close with a ball.We understand that the GOLD
MINE,
owned
by Mr. Lockhart, on the Coquille, near Randolph, bids fair to pay well.
Hope it may, as he has spent a large sum of money on it.W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, March 11, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, March 21, 1871.
The little
steamer Argo,
which plies on the Bay and its tributaries, was seized by a United
States officer, for violation of law. It seems that she had,
without a
license, been carrying passengers. Her owner, Capt. Claugh, has gone to
Portland to try to get her released. Hope he may succeed, as his all
is invested in the boat, and he has a family depending on his earnings.
Besides, the boat was a great convenience to this part of the country,
as she made daily trips to North Bend and Marshfield, and weekly trips
up the various tributaries of the Bay. Though she was not licensed,
there are many mitigating circumstances in her case.The tug Escort, while trying to get out to bring in a vessel, a few days ago, stuck on the bar and knocked off about six feet of her false keel. This occurred in consequence of the stormy weather, causing the channel to close about up. When I wrote you last, I supposed the storm was over; but it has continued to rage, with short intervals, ever since. The last week was the most stormy of the season. No vessel has gone out for six weeks; more than a dozen are now laying in the Bay, ready for sea.. The tugs can bring them in when they cannot take them out, on account of their being more lightly loaded when coming in. A sad event occurred here last Saturday. A few weeks ago a man came down here from North Bend. He brought with him $225, a "Whitehall" boat, shotgun, and a few other items. He went into O'Conner's saloon and commenced drinking, and kept it up till the day of his death, which occurred last Saturday. In less than a week his money and property had fallen into the hands of O'Conner, who then went and notified the sheriff that the county must take care of the poor wretch. By this time he was afflicted with delirium tremens. The sheriff took charge of him, but left him in care of O'Conner. He lived two weeks after this. Last Saturday he died, and was buried Saturday evening at the expense of the county. O'Conner now brings in a bill of fifty dollars against the county, for taking care of his victim two weeks. He took the man's money, and property, and caused his death, and yet, as greedy as the grave, clamors for more. But as long as a government, that claims to be civilized, will license men to carry on such business, such conduct must be expected and tolerated. W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, April 1, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, March 28, 1871.
There are
at this timeTWENTY-NINE
VESSELS
in
the Bay ready for sea, by far the largest number that has ever been
here at one time. The southwest wind has prevailed so long that the
channel has closed. At least there are three feet less water on the Bar
than there was last summer; but a few days of northwest wind will again
cut a channel, and calm down the bar so that vessels can again get out.
Several accidents have occurred lately to vessels coming in, but
nothing serious. A wave struck the stern of a schooner, broke the wheel
and crushed the man at the wheel considerable.The ladies connected with the sewing society of the M.E. Church gave A
SUPPER
last Friday evening, at the courthouse
for the benefit of the parsonage, and realized about fifty dollars.
The parsonage is a good one, and it will be well furnished, as the
ladies have taken it in hand; and the ladies of Empire always
accomplish what they undertake. The Methodists are raising funds to
build a church. They expect to build this summer, and to have it ready
for dedication by the first of September. At present there is
not a
church edifice in Coos County.SPRING
is
now upon us in all its beauty. Gardens are being made, trees are
putting forth their leaves, and many flowers are in full bloom. There
are many more wild birds here than in the Willamette; and also more
beautiful singers. One kind sings as sweetly as a well-cultivated
canary. Hummingbirds abound. Speaking of birds reminds me of white wild
geese that come here in the fall--perfectly
white. They were very abundant last fall, but disappeared
about the first of January.W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, April 8, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, April 15th, 1871.
After a few days fine weather, it commenced storming again last week,
and it has kept it up to the present moment. The "oldest inhabitant"
has never witnessed so "wet a spring" as the present one. Rain, rain,
rain, almost continuously, since the first of February.THE
ODD FELLOWS
expect
to have some sort of a celebration on the 26th inst. This order is well
represented here. They have a good lodge room and is it well furnished;
and arrangements are being made for securing a site for a cemetery.
They are, with few exceptions, a noble band of brothers.A
PROTRACTED MEETING
is
being carried on by the pastor of this charge, assisted by Rev. J.
Harer of Wilbur. There are but few church members here, yet
the
congregations are good and orderly, and the Sunday school is large and
prosperous. At the quarterly meeting which was held last Saturday and
Sabbath, the quarterly conference concluded to hold a camp meeting
embracing the first Sabbath in June. This will be the first
camp
meeting held within the bounds of Coos County. You see that we are
somewhat behind the times.THE
TEMPERANCE QUESTION
is
being agitated, and the temperance men have resolved that they will be
felt in our next election. We do not think that a third party
could
succeed, but if the Republican Party wishes our votes, temperance men
must be nominated. That the Republican Party is entirely free from the
vice we do not claim, but that a majority, a very large majority of
those who manufacture, buy, sell, and use intoxicating liquors are
Democrats, no honest, intelligent person will deny. Therefore the hope
of the temperance cause is the Republican Party. Temperance men must
attend the primary meetings, and select those to attend the county
convention who will nominate true temperance men for office. This done,
the temperance cause and the Republican Party will be successful. If a
different course is pursued, both will be defeated, as a third party
will be formed.W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, April 29, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, April 25th, 1871.
The
schooner Margaret
Crockard; Capt. Godfrey commanding, wasWRECKED
on
the 18th inst., soon after crossing the Bar. She was loaded with lumber
for the Society Islands. As she was being towed out to sea, she struck
so violently on the Bar as to start every timber in her, but at the
time it was thought no serious damage was incurred. The tug towed her
out to sea, and returned. When she had gone about fifteen
miles out,
the steward came on deck and told the captain that water was coming
into the cabin and he believed the hold was full of water. The captain
went below and found water rushing violently into the cabin. He rushed
upon deck, brought the vessel to, and ordered the deck load to be
thrown overboard, but before this could be accomplished she careened
and went over on her beams end. The crew had barely time to secure
ropes with which to lash themselves to the vessel. As she went over
they climbed upon the side and lashed themselves fast. This was late in
the evening. They remained there over night. The next morning the
captain of one of the tugs descried her from the Lookout, and two of
the tugs went to her relief. By this time the tide had brought her
within five miles of the beach. The tug took the crew on board, and
worked all day in trying to right the vessel, but the sea was so rough
they could not succeed. Captain and crew lost everything but the
clothing they had on, but our kind citizens supplied their immediate
wants, and they were furnished by the captains of some of the vessels
plying between here and San Francisco with free passes to the city.W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, May 6, 1871, page
2Our Southern Oregon
Correspondence.
EMPIRE
CITY, June 5th, 1871.
Our District Court closed last Saturday evening. This occasion always
draws a great many persons to town, although there may be no
case on
the docket of much importance. Our Bar was graced this term by more
than the usual amount of foreign legal talent. Corvallis, Eugene and
Roseburg were well represented. The ladies held theirFANCY
FAIR
on Tuesday and Wednesday
evenings. They realized, clear of all expenses, one hundred and fifty dollars, which
for so small a community is remarkably well. The occasion was
a very pleasant one.The steamer Alpha, and the tugs Escort and Merrimac were SEIZED
last
Thursday evening, by our Deputy Collector Woodruff, for violation of
law; but they gave bail, and went on their way. The little steamer Argo,
that was seized a few months ago, has been released, and she is
refitted and is now making daily trips to Marshfield and other points
on the Bay and river, to the great delight of our citizens generally.
It has beenRUMORED
that
Judge Skinner is to receive the appointment of Deputy Collector of this
port in the place of E. A. Woodruff, who has resigned. A more suitable
man, or one more deserving than the Judge, could not be found. He is a
true man, and has ever labored for the interests of the Republican
Party; yet he has received no office at their hands, while men far less
deserving than he have been placed in power. Then his interests are
identified with the people of this place, as he owns property here and
expects to make this his future home. His appointment would give
universal satisfaction. The Company that recently purchased theNEW
COAL MINE
has
commenced operations, and the prospects so far are favorable. If it
should prove as rich as it is expected to be, its development will be a
great benefit to this county. Mr. Lockhart'sGOLD
MINE,
on
the Coquille, has proved richer than even expected. Mr. Larre's claim
is also paying better than ever. It is generally believed that
there
are good paying mines in that vicinity that have not been developed.THE
ENTRANCE
to
our Bay, which for a time last winter was closed by southerly winds
driving sand into the channel, is now open, and vessels are passing in
and out daily. Southerly winds drive the sand into the channel and
quite close it; but a few days of northerly winds cut it out and render
it as good as ever.W.D.N.
Albany
Register, Albany, Oregon, June 10, 1871, page
2Letter from Coos Bay.
EMPIRE
CITY, April 8, 1873.
TO THE EDITOR
OF THE OREGONIAN:The appointment of David Bushey of Roseburg, Douglas County, as Collector for this district, took the people of Coos Bay by surprise; hardly anyone could tell who or what he was, or what peculiar qualifications he possessed over Republicans of Coos Bay that he should be appointed to look after the shipping interests of this part of Oregon. But upon examination of the doings of the last Legislature it was found that he was a Representative from Douglas County, and voted right on the election of United States Senator. The appointment gives general dissatisfaction to the Republicans of this county. They think that someone should have been appointed that is familiar with the business and interests of Coos Bay, as there is quite a difference between farming and hunting Cayuse horses and measuring and registering vessels. The people of Coos Bay think that after having worked for a number of years to have the Bay made a Port of Entry it was nothing more than right that the appointment should have been given to some one of its own citizens, who is acquainted with the business and shipping interests of this part of Oregon, in preference to taking one from the cattle or sheep ranches of the Umpqua. But of course the appointment was not made to please either the people or Republican Party of Coos County. The Hon. Collector has not yet made his appearance here. His advent is looked for with curiosity. Oregonian, Portland, April 14, 1873, page 1 Our Coos Bay Correspondence.
We have received the following correspondence from Coos Bay. We hardly
think it is quite as bad there as our correspondent would make out, but
publish it as a warning to some of our would-be travelers, who may be
dissatisfied with their present homes. We know how it is ourself. It is
not to be expected that a person can rush into a new county, and in a
few months, perhaps, be a large land owner or a banker. Those days are
past when we could "make money hand over fist." It is enough for us in
these times, if we can make a comfortable living and lay a little aside
for a rainy day. Thinking that this, perhaps, may deter some of our
young men from straying off for richer fields, while they have so many
opportunities at home, we give it for what it is worth:EMPIRE
CITY, Jan. 4th, 1876.
EDITOR ENTERPRISE--Sir:
A few notes from Coos County may prove of interest to some few of your
readers, especially so to those who contemplate a move in this
direction, in the spring. As for the county, you have heard it "lauded
to the skies" for a year or so. Well, there is no doubt that it is
fully deserving of praise, as far as coal and timber are concerned.
Both we have in abundance; but transportation is where the "tug of war"
comes in. At the present time there are 11 vessels (10 sailing and 1
steamer) lying here, bar-bound. During the winter, it is nothing
unusual to have a whole fleet bar-bound from three to six weeks. Here
we are now, waiting for fifteen days, and no immediate prospect of
being seasick. Another great drawback to the county is the scarcity of
capital. In more than one of our coal mines, the miners have not been
paid for eight or nine months, with the exception of goods taken out of
the company's store, at three or four prices. Those who are lucky
enough to get "an order on the city," and are not bar-bound too long,
soon emigrate--if they get the order cashed before, they are in the
biggest kind of luck.The loggers, if they do not accede to the demands of the mill men, have a difficulty of disposing of their logs. There are thousands of dollars worth of logs lying in the bay, in such a position that no one can touch them, all on account of the owners having enough manliness to stand up for their rights. Five or six capitalists are about all that are making money, and, to use a Coos Bay expression, "they run the Bay." If a friend of mine should ask my advice, I should say, stay away, until money is more plentiful; which there was in abundance a few years ago. But still, for a business man, with enough capital to give "long credit," Coos County is good, providing he can get on the inside of the "ring." No doubt the county will be good in time, as it has a great many resources. Coquille Valley is a rich agricultural valley, but there is nothing of it but a narrow strip on each side of the river, and that is nearly all taken up. It only takes about $50 an acre to clear off the myrtle and underbrush. After it is cleared, it is salable at $10 or $15 an acre. According to their accounts, five or six hundred bushels of potatoes to the acre is an average crop. Coos County, I believe, supports about one hundred saloons, and one church. Rain, mud and cold winds we have in abundance. The much-talked-of railroad from Roseburg to Coos Bay seems to be at a standstill; and in fact, why should it not be? Why should freight and passengers come this way, and take chances on getting by the Bay in two or three weeks or more? Oh yes! the five vessels lying outside now might run up to Portland and send us our freight by rail via Roseburg. MORE ANON.
Oregon City Enterprise, January 21, 1876, page 2COOS BAY BAR AND ITS DEAD.
During my travels on the Northwest Coast I visited Coos Bay in the fall
of 1873. The bay is a beautifully situated body of water, supplied by
waters flowing from both branches of Coos River Isthmus and South
Sloughs and a few minor branches and empties into the ocean. On the
right, as you come up the Bay, after passing South Slough, is Empire
City, a picturesque little village built upon a beach overlooking the
sea.A LEAF FROM THE LOG-BOOK OF "ROVER." Here I concluded to "lay over a trip," and see the sights. Accordingly I engaged board at the Lockhart Hotel, and was soon ensconced in a comfortable room, where, unlike many another "seaside hotel," one was made to feel perfectly at home. Being a stranger, I for a time kept secluded, but in a town like Empire one need not remain long ere he finds congenial spirits, and it was so in my case. I soon made the acquaintance of that ubiquitous and ever-entertaining personage, the "oldest inhabitant," and from him learned many interesting incidents of the early settlement of this portion of Oregon. He told many weird legends of Indian massacres, hardships and privations endured by the pioneers, and hair-breadth escapes of hardy sailors who "went down to the sea in ships," and of the noble pioneer women, who walked side by side with the husbands of of their choice in the dark and dreary hours when each twig contained a foe and none were safe from the Indians that roamed the forests. He related all this to me, and after a few days acquaintance invited me to take a sail with him and visit some points of interest, of which offer I gladly availed myself. Coos Bay has many attractions, but the bar for me had the most charm. Why it was so can only be explained by the fact that, being a "tar," I was always restless when not within the roar of the briny deep. "Here," said he, as we reached the North Spit, "is the burial place of many brave hearts. And pointing to the angry waters, said: "Several years ago a 'kanim' ["canoe"] went over there and thirteen Indians met their death while endeavoring to reach the outer beach of Point Arago, and many others have gone down 'neath the billows of this bar." The following evening, in company with "Uncle Dave," I went to North Bend, and there fell in with a jovial crowd of sailors and mill men, among whom were Capt. Elliott, of the Emma Augusta, and Capt. McAllep, of the Orient, two as fine gentlemen and true seamen as I have ever met. Besides these two persons were Capt. James Magee, of the tug Escort, and Capt. James Hill, of the tug C. J. Brenham. During the evening, the conversation turned on the bar, and tale after tale relating to its treachery was told. Capt. Elliott stated that he believed he could save himself if washed overboard while crossing the bar, but how little did he dream that ere forty-eight hours had passed he would be numbered among the "dead of Coos Bay Bar." Two days after the evening's conversation, the Emma Augusta was ready for sea, and it being Sunday, Capt. Hill decided to tow her out over the bar. A crowd of seafaring men were on the dock when the tug started for the lower bay, where the vessel lay at anchor, and several invited guests stepped on board the C. J. Brenham for a trip over the bar, among whom was the writer. Having taken the Emma Augusta in tow, we proceeded towards the bar, which was anything but smooth. Gradually drawing nearer we could see the heavy swells tumble in and also break clear across, there being only a small space that seemed at all possible to pass. Capt. Elliott stood by the side of Capt. Hill, near the "manhold"--the protection placed around the wheel to more safely protect the "man at the wheel"--and appeared to be in an unusually fine frame of mind at the idea of being on his way to San Francisco to spend the holidays, and many a pleasant joke went round. As we neared the bar I saw the lynx eye of Capt. Hill looking steadily ahead, and having been used to the manner assumed by captains and mates in times when courage and determination were most demanded, soon perceived that behind this resolute exterior there was something which made him hesitate ere going too far in case a "turn back" became necessary. When off the point of North Spit steam was slackened and the Captain said: "The bar is very rough this morning for the Brenham; what do you think, Capt. Elliott; can we make it?" "Oh, yes," replied Capt Elliott. "I have crossed out on a rougher bar many a time. What do you think?" "All right," said Capt. Jim. And away we went. We had passed over the worst without accident, and had begun to breathe easy--for there is nothing so trying even to those accustomed to "bar work" as going over an angry bar where each breaker threatens to engulf the boat and bring death to all on board--when immediately in front of the boat a huge breaker began to "comb," and before we could prepare ourselves for the shock broke with tremendous fury over the Brenham, sweeping overboard Capt. Elliott and the mate of the tug, named Smith. Every effort was made to save them, but in vain. Poor Elliot was the first to succumb, and it is the impression that he was hurt by striking the rail of the boat when he fell into the sea. Smith was a good swimmer, and for a time it looked as if he would reach the beach, but it was not so ordained, and he sank beneath the waves, and his spirit soon followed Capt. Elliott's. The beach for weeks following was traversed to find the bodies. About two weeks after the accident the body of Smith was found and decently interred by the citizens of Empire City, "Uncle Davy" making the coffin; but the body of Elliott never was given up by the treacherous sea, and the "curlew's restless cry" is the only requiem chanted above his watery resting place. We safely returned to Empire City; but the sudden and tragical taking off of two noble, generous men in the full bloom of health had an effect upon all who witnessed it that could not be shaken off in a day. And even now, at times, comes vividly before me the scene of those two struggling bravely for life midst the breakers of Coos Bay Bar--struggling against hope; endeavoring to avert a destiny that could not be averted. Capt. Elliott! No truer, nobler man have I met. A true son of the sea, a careful and courageous captain, a gentleman of fine feeling, and--an honest man. May he ever rest in peace 'neath the "breakers" of that "harbor bar," until that day when the "sea shall give up its dead"; then may it be my lot to meet him and to know him on the other shore, as I knew him in the walks of life; for he was truly a friend. About a year after the above event I was again visiting Coos Bay, and was invited by Capt. Magee to take a trip on the Escort over the bar. Not being well, I declined; beside the image of the catastrophe I had before witnessed came too painfully to memory. At this time some thirty vessels were lying at anchor in the lower bay, awaiting a favorable depth of water to pass over the bar, and this day it had been arranged for both tugs, the Escort and Fearless (the latter having been put on this bar in place of the C. J. Brenham, which had been assigned to the Columbia Bar work) to go out and sound. As was usual on such occasions, the captains of the different vessels were anxious to proceed to sea, and several of them concluded to go down to the bar on the tugs, among them one Capt. Nissen, of the schooner Twilight. He was a fine young man, and had just returned from "the old country" with a young wife, and this was his first trip since his return. He stood high in the estimation of his employers and was beloved by his crew, and all who knew him appreciated his worth as a friend and gentleman. He, like Capt. Elliott, was anxious to sail for San Francisco, and went to take a look at the bar. Everything went well, and when the bar was reached it was not what one used to the sea would call "rough," although it was breaking. The Escort was in the lead, and unmindful of danger, Captain Nissen and Captain Lorentzen, of the schooner Letitia, stood side by side on the house, engaged in an animated conversation. Suddenly the waters began to rise and in an instant the Escort was completely buried under the weight of a treacherous breaker, and Capt. Nissen was floundering in the wrathful waters of that cruel bar. Captain Lorentzen would have shared the same fate but for the presence of mind of Captain Magee. As the water swept past him, he felt--for he could not see--an object going past him which he instinctively grasped and held firm until the boat recovered from the shock, when he found he had rescued a human being from certain destruction. Too much cannot be said in praise of the nerve displayed by Capt. Magee, and all who know him will testify that for stamina and true courage in times of danger, Capt. Magee has but few equals and no superiors. He is surely the right man in the right place. After the Escort had been relieved of the water, attention was turned to Capt. Nissen. To turn the tug upon the bar was an utter impossibility, but as he could be seen swimming, and the Fearless was a short distance astern, it appeared reasonable that he would be saved, so the Escort steamed over the bar, turned and started toward the struggling man. Life preservers from both boats were thrown him, but it seemed as though the fates had combined against him, for some drifted almost within his grasp and were washed past upon the angry billows. The current had taken the man toward the North Spit, and just as he became exhausted the Fearless came up and threw him a life buoy and a line, both of which he missed, though the buoy he missed by only an arm's length. During this trying ordeal Capt. Nissen never uttered a word. Capt. Hill saw that only one chance was left. To lower a small boat was impossible, and the only chance was to get as close as possible and try the line once more. Amos Herring, the mate (commonly called "Jersey"), had another idea, and when the tug neared the drowning man, he slipped a bow line over his body and giving the end to a bystander said: "When I catch him pull us up alongside." He instantly jumped overboard, but too late! Just as he reached the man he sank to rise no more, and "Jersey" was hauled on board more dead than alive. His act was rewarded, as was also Capt. Hill's, by the Master Mariners' Association with a gold medal, but money nor trinkets can ever repay such heroic acts as were that day enacted upon Coos Bay Bar, in order to save human life. The name of Amos Herring deserves to be placed high up on the list of heroes, and his brave deed of imperiling his own life to save that of another should stand forth in all its brilliancy for ages to come, and should be so preserved that his children and grandchildren may point with pride to Amos Herring, their ancestor, as a hero of the nineteenth century. Every effort was made to save Captain Nissen, but all in vain, and after twenty minutes of hard struggling for life he was numbered among the dead of Coos Bay Bar, and the next steamer bore to San Francisco the terrible news that his young wife was a widow, for all that was mortal of Capt. Nissen lay low at the bottom of the sea. His body never came ashore, and the probabilities are that as the tide turned ebb shortly after he sank that it was carried out to sea. Such is the history of two incidents that have come under my observation while visiting Coos Bay. The bar is a short one, but no more uglier one can be found when it is aroused by storms and wind. It is at most times easily and safely crossed, and so still and so placid that canoes and small boats can safely cross to sea over its bosom; but when it is in a passion no more majestic sight is seen. The breakers roll mountains high, and their roar resembled the distant thunder of a thousand battlefields. The angry waters are lashed into foam while the spray is thrown hundreds of yards into the air. From Point Arago one can commend a good view of the bar, and can for hours watch with intense interest its many changes. To the north stretch the sand spits, and all along the coast from Coos Bay to the Umpqua can be seen a dreary waste of sand, at times occasionally relieved by a small grove of evergreen firs. Here on a clear day the eye can discern the sail of craft, bound in, for many leagues at sea; here almost every phase of life is exemplified in nature--the calm and placid waters of the bar reminds one of the happy days of infancy when not a breath ruffles the days of early life; again the disturbed seas as they rise suddenly upon the bosom of the bar reminds us of our first great grief and disappointment that quickly revealed to our eyes being no longer a child we must arouse and, like the billows that arise upon the tranquil bosom of the bar, struggling against an unseen power behind them we, too, must struggle and bravely win the battle of life; and as the waves become more and more angry how forcibly are we reminded of the many fierce battles fought in life for man's mastery over himself, and of the struggles forced upon us all at one time or another in this life; and as the angry waves swallow up and kill everything within their reach, how vividly do scenes of this kind transpire each day among the sons of men? And again, when the bar has become peaceful and serene, does it not carry the mind to old age? Of one who has fought the battle of life, and in the sere and yellow leaf of declining years sits peacefully down content to wait for the summons that will take him hence to eternal rest that will never again be disturbed by the turbulent waves of this life? Coos Bay Bar! what sorrow ye have brought to once happy firesides. Know ye the anguish, the days and nights of sorrow that ye have caused once happy homes to endure, and if so, have you no moments of remorse? No, cruel waters, little care ye; but let us all hope that when the sea gives up its thousands, not one of the dead of Coos Bay Bar shall be absent, for 'neath you rests the tenements of noble men, whose spirits "went aloft" to their Maker through your treacherous and angry lashings. But who can say that it is not their gain, and that it was but destiny for those brave men to surrender up life to God amid the roar and turmoil of Coos Bay Bar? Peace to their ashes, and may we all meet them across the bar that divides the mortal and immortal sphere. Empire City Guard, February 7, 1880, page 3 COOS BAY IN EARLY TIMES.
Not long since we received a pamphlet containing an account of the
early settlement and settlers of Coos Bay. On looking it over we find
that it presents a great number of historical reminiscences of that
part of Oregon, with personal sketches, description of
eccentric
characters, and other interesting matter. The author, there
may be
reason to suppose, is S. S. Mann, formerly county judge of Coos
County. A rapid, even though it be a partial, summary of the
contents
of the pamphlet will be received with interest by large numbers to whom
the entire sketch is inaccessible; and the Oregonian
is the more desirous to present such summary because it wishes
to take
every opportunity to call attention to that important part of
our
state, than which no other part has greater resources
or is destined to
surer wealth and greatness.Some Account of the Early Settlement and Settlers of Coos Bay--Historical Reminiscences, Etc. Previous to 1853, as the writer says, no white man had a residence on the fertile shores of Coos Bay. The aboriginal Indians alone enjoyed the wealth of game, fish, fruits and berries which were in such abundance as to make an Indian paradise. Prior to that time the locality had indeed been visited by a few whites. A small schooner, bound to Umpqua River, entered Coos Bay by mistake in 1852, and remained for several weeks, hunting for the settlements. At length persons from the Umpqua, learning their condition from the Indians, piloted them out of Coos Bay and into the place of their destination. During the summer of 1853, P. B. Marple, a resident of Jackson County, made an exploration to the coast, passing down the Coquille River. Learning the general character of Coos Bay from the Indians, he deemed it a valuable location. Returning to Jackson County, he formed a company of about forty persons, who, proceeding to Coos Bay, became the pioneers and early settlers of Coos County. Among these are mentioned Marple, Harris, Jackson, Lockhart, Coffin, Tolman, Noble and Boatman. Soon after their advent the discovery of gold sand mines at Randolph made a large addition to their number, and Empire City became the depot of supplies for a large mining population. Vessels with merchandise and men were attracted to it. In the end the mines proved less rich than was anticipated, but the population and capital induced by the excitement remained, and was added to the permanence of the settlement. Among the settlers of this period are named Northrup & Symonds, the originators of the Eastport coal mine; Rogers & Flanagan, pioneers of the Newport coal mine; James Aiken, the principal discoverer of these veins; A. M. Simpson and H. H. Luse, pioneer sawmill owners, Dr. Foley, Yoakum, Winchester and others. The first coal was discovered at North Bend. Soon afterwards similar discoveries were made in several other places. On further exploration these discoveries were abandoned and the mines were opened at other points. The lumber interest has always been an important industry at Coos Bay, though its growth of late years has not kept pace with former expectations. A. M. Simpson built the first saw mill. He has since built many vessels at the bay, which have been employed in the large trade created by the numerous saw mills since erected. In these early days, angel women, "uncertain, coy and hard to please," were commentably few and scarce. Bachelors' halls were in the majority. The occupants were under the necessity of being their own cooks and housekeepers, as well as attending to outdoor avocations. They could cuddle the imaginative "girl I left behind me," to their hearts, and "nothing more." An occasional ball gathered the few beauties, young and old, from far and near, in some rough-boarded room, brilliantly lighted with tallow dips. The "fair" and few shone gorgeously in calico. The bachelors in scores, arrayed in their best, looked on in admiring hopelessness. "Biled shirts" were proscribed as too pretentious. Whoever should dare to appear in one would have been the subject of ridicule. Freed from the ceremonious forms of fashionable life, they "tripped the light fantastic toe" in joyous hilarity "till daylight doth appear." The advent of a marriageable young lady produced a lively sensation. All the bachelors rushed in hot haste to secure a chance in the matrimonial prize. The fair one was perplexed to choose among her many offers; and could select her own time to restore the "lost rib" to some happy swain. This terrible lack of female loveliness and companionship made men desperate. There were many native maidens camped about, who could be purchased from their fond parents for a few pairs of blankets. Rather than live on, hopelessly languishing for fairer loves, many embraced the opportunity and provided themselves with companions from the wigwams of the "noble red man," and lived clandestinely without any marriage ceremony. Suddenly clouds arose, darkening the horizon of their domestic felicity. An order was issued from the Indian Department that all the Indians at Coos Bay should be removed to the Siletz Reservation. This order would ruthlessly include all those dusky companions to whom these men had become attached, turning them adrift again to solitary, single life. These Indian maidens, strange as it may seem, had wound themselves deeply into their affections. They looked with horror upon a separation. Lucky thought, happy discovery! Marriage would make them wives and American citizens beyond the control of Indian agents. The danger was imminent. The emissaries of the Indian Department were gathering the Indians together for removal. There was a rush of these couples to the justices of the peace in the county, and about thirty couples in this vicinity were joined in the bonds of wedlock. Some of them proved faithful wives, and some of their liege lords are respectable, honored, thriving citizens. From this point the pamphlet from which we are condensing is mostly taken up with personal reminiscences and anecdotes of the early settlers. These are of great interest to those who have been acquainted with the persons to whom the sketches and anecdotes refer. But we could wish that the writer had given us with them some further statement of the resources and material development of that important and growing part of our state. Oregonian, Portland, January 31, 1880, page 2 A Word for Coos and Curry Counties.
Port Orford Post, May 18, 1882, page 1 The following interesting letter published in the Willamette Farmer of
the 5th was written by Dr. Von der Green of Euchre Creek and well worth
reading: "The counties of Coos and Curry in the southwestern portion of
Oregon are commercially cut off from the rest of the state. From Camas
Valley, twenty-five miles southwest of Oregon to the seaboard, there is
neither railroad nor wagon road; the only means of travel are narrow
trails. So little is known of the geography of this region that even
Portland editors make mention of Coquille City as being on Coos Bay,
Port Orford in Curry County as being in Coos County, and a few years
ago one of the Oregon delegation in Washington brought in a bill for
the improvement of Rogue River from its mouth to Scottsburg (which is
on the Umpqua River, about 100 miles north of Rogue River).
"It is a detriment to the prosperity of our state that the commerce of these counties is entirely with San Francisco. Coos County exports lumber, coal, fish, wool, butter, and builds ships. The principal exports of Curry County are salmon of excellent quality, wool, lumber, dairy products, hides, etc. Besides those products, there is considerable mining done along several streams and on the ocean beach. As this is principally a stock raising region, ranchers and miners have to get flour, groceries, clothing, etc., from San Francisco. We sometimes get from San Francisco flour with the Silverton (Oregon) brand, and fruit dried in the Willamette Valley, and cloth from the Oregon City woolen mills. "Now let Oregon producers and manufacturers think what an amount of profit it takes from them, and how much they and the consumers lose by shipping from the Willamette Valley to San Francisco, and again half the same distance back to the seaports of Chetco, Rogue River, Port Orford, Coquille and Coos Bay. For the want of a railroad, much of the commerce is entirely lost to Oregon, and many of the natural resources of this portion of the state remain undeveloped. The building of about 100 miles of railroad from Roseburg down the Coquille River with branches to Coos Bay and Port Orford would not only benefit and develop the countries through which it would pass, but it would be a paying investment to capitalists. The natural outlet for the trade of the inland valleys between Eugene City and Rogue River Valley is the bay of Port Orford. The largest ocean vessels can enter this bay without the assistance of a tug; and since it has been selected by the government engineers as the harbor of refuge, we call the attention of railroad men to examine the advantages of this portion of Oregon. Another profitable investment for capitalists would be a narrow-gauge railroad from Jacksonville down Rogue River to the seaboard. Oregon's commerce will remain crippled, and many of her resources undeveloped, until we have more railroad communication from the interior to the seaports." COOS COUNTY.
The following we find in the Portland Daily News, the contribution of a Bandon correspondent:Interesting Description of One of the Grandest Sections of Oregon. COOS BAY,
an
extremely irregular body of water, about fifty square miles in area,
with a number of arms penetrating for a considerable distance inland
and adding materially thereto, lies north of the Coquille region and is
separated from it by a watershed of low hills running parallel to the
Coquille River. There is sufficient water in the bay to float the
largest ship. The character of the land about Coos Bay is somewhat
similar to that of the Coquille. Much marsh land is found here on
tributary sloughs and creeks. The first vessel known to have entered
the bay was a schooner, bound for the mouth of the Umpqua, which
entered it by mistake in 1852. Today the bay is dotted with vessels of
all kinds, going and coming, and a regular line of steamers run between
the bay and San Francisco.EMPIRE CITY,
the
county seat of Coos County, is situated about six miles from the mouth
of the bay on the east side. Commerce, mining and lumber built up
Empire. It is now somewhat decaying, and its rival, Marshfield,
situated five or six miles further up the bay, is taking the lead in
shipping and in business. Back of Marshfield lie the famous Coos Bay
Coal Mines, which now are furnishing steadily coal for five or six
vessels carrying that commodity on to San Francisco market, and
especially since the Puget Sound mines were closed has the coal trade
been very brisk, and the price has advanced considerably. This valuable
resource furnishes work for many in its development. Two weekly papers
are published at Marshfield. The Coast Mail (Republican) and the Coos Bay News (Democratic), which with the Coquille Herald (which is neutral as to politics) make three papers published in Coos County.THE LUMBER TRADE OF COOS BAY
is
very extensive, and at North Bend, lying on the bay between Empire and
Marshfield, there is also a shipyard of A. M. Simpson & Bro., where
many vessels are built. These gentlemen are the heavy lumber dealers of
this region, and have many mills, stores, etc.RAILROAD.
Lately a railroad company has been formed and a railroad is to be built
from the bay to Huntington, eastward, as has been quite thoroughly
published before. It is an important step in the progressive scale for
Coos County. The name of the county is supposed to be of Indian origin
and of doubtful signification. The name "Cowes" has been used, also
Cowans, and it has been spelled C-o-o-s-e. Coos County was incorporated
in 1853.In the years 1871 to 1878, including two-thirds of the latter year, the total amount of coal and lumber exported from Coos Bay was $2,924,000. Shipbuilding was represented for the same time by the construction of forty vessels, aggregating 16,351 tons. The arrival and departure of vessels aggregated 1,388. The quantity of coal that is conveniently accessible from Coos Bay and its waters are almost incalculable. Within an area of ten miles of the bay there are at least 75,000 acres of good coal land, good for 450,000,000 of tons. HARBOR IMPROVEMENTS.
Coos Bay and Coquille River both have bars more or less obstructed to
navigation. The government has done much in the way of building
breakwaters that have straightened and deepened the channels, and now
the river and harbor committee has recommended liberally for the coming
season.WAGON ROADS
are
scarce and hard to build in Coos and Curry counties. The beach and the
inland waterways are the several ways of travel. The county authorities
are each year improving road facilities, however.FISH AND GAME
are
abundant all along this coast. Every little stream is filled with the
finny tribe, and from old ocean we catch halibut, cod, sturgeon,
flounders, perch, etc., besides getting crabs, mussels and clams on the
beach in superabundance. Salmon fishing in its season is one of the
important industries in this region, all streams being well filled with
this, the king of fish. Coquille River will be alive soon with
fishermen's boats, and many a good and paying haul will be as of yore.
The other day I accompanied a fisherman who fishes with a seine. We
made a short haul at the mouth of the Coquille, and took out 147
large-sized perch of the silver-tinted variety. They were perfect
beauties and were as delicious to the taste when prepared for food as
they were pleasing in appearance.The grass is green, winter and summer, and stock and sheep can be raised without hay or feed or stabling, throughout the season. CATTLE.
In the spring cattle buyers come to the ranches and buy all marketable
stock, right at the door of the farmer and stockman, paying the highest
market price and cash down. This spring Coos and Curry counties
furnished cattle buyers who filled orders away in Montana, $40,000
worth of cattle at the least calculation, and, as this money was
distributed in small portions throughout the county, and fell into many
hands, much good was the result.There is an element here, as elsewhere in Oregon, of the mossback stripe, opposed to evolution or development of any kind, who maintain a dog in the manger policy towards all who come with capital or enterprising spirit to waken up the country and do something. There is, in my humble opinion, no better place in Oregon, all things considered, however, for housekeepers to come to. They must have some money and be prepared to put up with discomforts incident to life in a remote and considerably behind the times locality. It is only a matter of time, and comparatively short time, too, for energetic people, such as of the middle Northwest and the East, to make their way here, for the means of living can be gained with less exertion here than any place I ever lived in, and the climate is the same as to temperature the year round with but slight variation. The future for this region with all its undeveloped staple resources can but be of the best, and as capital and new spirit of enterprise and civilization pours in this will be the Eden spot of Oregon to live in. THE MINES.
I had well nigh forgotten to mention the mining and mineral wealth of
this region of country. Gold, glittering and dazzling, has been taken
off from the ocean beaches here for the past third of a century, and in
paying quantities, too. There is scarcely a spadeful of dirt anywhere
from Yaquina Bay, perhaps, to Frisco along the coast that does not
contain "colors." The only drawback seems to be to find dirt that has
enough glittering particles in to pay.BLACK SAND.
The celebrated black sand mines of Randolph and vicinity I have seen
and examined, and many a "panning out" have I witnessed made by the
ever hopeful and expectant prospector. Black sand mining has paid many
here, and will continue to do so. But I must close, ere I spin this out
as long as moral law. Books could be written on Coos and Curry counties
alone, and yet the subject not be legitimately exhausted or justice
done it. In this sketch you may well know I have been obliged to make a
thin skimming only of a few prominent facts of authentic record and
personal observation.At another time I may take up Curry County somewhat in detail, as well as deal in a general way with many things pertaining to this country yet unmentioned, but of a kind that may perhaps be both interesting and instructive to your readers, and especially to home-seeking immigrants. Coquille City Herald, June 22, 1886, page 1 SOUTHWESTERN OREGON.
Observations of the "Journal" Correspondent in the Vicinity of Coos Bay. EMPIRE CITY, Ogn., Aug. 27, 1889.
EDS. JOURNAL:--Coos
County can be reached from three directions; viz, steamers semi-weekly,
direct to San Francisco; a daily stage line (Sundays excepted) from
Roseburg, and tri-weekly stages from Drain. In coming here I chose the
latter route. This county is comparatively little known to the outside
world and, truly, I am surprised, for its resources are something
wonderful. Bounded on the north by Benton County, east by Douglas, and
south by remote Curry County, while the grand ocean extends to the west.Leaving Drain at 6 o'clock in the morning, the stage road passes through a varied farming country, mostly small farms and large hills. At Elkton, 25 miles from Drain, a substantial dinner is partaken and then on to Scottsburg, 10 miles further. Scottsburg is a pretty little place on the banks of the Umpqua, and fine ranches are passed between Elkton and Scottsburg. The latter town is at the head of navigation on the Umpqua River and, after eating a most enjoyable supper at mine host Farmer's house, you board the sprightly little steamer Juno; with a toot of the whistle and an "all clear, sir," we steam gently down with the tide--down one of the prettiest streams in Oregon. Everything so green and bright; mountains of queer and fantastic shapes; the stream winding around and through an ever-changing foliage. The boat stops now and then at some rancher's or logger's house and, finally, Gardiner is reached, 20 miles from Scottsburg. Gardiner is a lumber town, and a saw mill of 15000 capacity a day has just been completed. Salmon fishing is extensive in season and, opposite Gardiner, is located a large cannery. I forgot to mention that the Umpqua flows into Winchester Bay and Gardiner is at the mouth of the Umpqua. The steamer continues on down to the ocean beach, 6 miles from Gardiner, where you take stage and are driven for 20 miles along the hard ocean beach. Of course it is a grand sight--the billows chasing each other--and you look out expecting every moment that they will roll into the stage, for the driver skirts right along the surf, it being more firm to drive on, the sand when wet being hard. Finally this end of the beach is reached, that is, Coos Bay, and you take a small boat and are rowed across to the busy little town of Empire City. The town is located on Coos Bay and is about 6 miles from the Coos Bay bar. Apropos, a word about the bay. It is only one-half a mile long and at low tide has 16 feet of water, while at high tide 23. Be it remembered that the Columbia River bar is 7 miles long. At present the government contractors are at work building a jetty at the bar and are gradually improving the entrance. Empire City, the county seat, is a Port of Entry, Mr. Siglin being Collector of Customs. The Southern Oregon company have a large saw mill here, its cutting capacity being 125,000 daily. It is owned by Eastern capitalists, and the president of the company is Elijah Smith of the Oregon Short Line R.R. There are three good hotels in the town, three general stores, only four saloons and, altogether, its 600 inhabitants appear to be doing well. I next visited Marshfield, also on the the Bay, and 10 or 12 miles by steamer. Marshfield is the most important town in the county, has about 1500 population, stores of every description and good hotels, the Coos County Bank is just starting into business, has two newspapers--the Coos Bay News and the Coast Mail. But withal that there is a lack of enterprise apparent. I omitted to mention that on the bay between Empire and Marshfield are located the North Bend Mill and also Porter Mill, both with a daily capacity of upwards of 100,000 feet of lumber. About 3 miles back of Marshfield are the Newport coal mines, while all through the county, back of Marshfield and off east and south, are some of the finest veins of coal of good steam quality, too. I was greatly puzzled why the people have not endeavored to get a railroad into the country. After conversing with a prominent attorney of Marshfield, it was made plain to me though. He said, at present the main industry of the country was lumber and the rich mill owners and lumbermen were desirous of keeping the railroad out, while the merchants of Marshfield and other towns were, of course, under obligations to the mill men and, while they might want the railroad ever so badly, it behooved them to be silent. Then, also, Marshfield has a few "mossback" merchants who actually think a railroad would do the country no good. They say, as a result of a railroad, more stores would start up and competition would be close. Heaven knows it is not now, etc. They don't seem to think that it would be the cause of development of the immense coal mines, and bringing many hundred settlers and laborers into the county, who would offset the "close competition." Opposite Marshfield Coos River flows into the Bay. Coos River has two forks, north and south, and is navigable for 20 miles. Along its banks are beautiful farms, some large and some small. All are productive, the ground being well moistened the year around, and the soil is very rich. Steamers run daily on the rivers from Marshfield. The country all back is thick with timber, and loggers are numerous. I boarded the steamer Myrtle and went up as far as the steamer goes, King's landing, 12 miles above Marshfield on Isthmus Slough, where I took the stage for Coquille. I found Coquille City to be a pretty town. It is on the banks of the Coquille River, and during the past four years has grown wonderfully. It has about 700 inhabitants and growing rapidly. I met several Trinity County gentlemen there; namely, Mr. Lorenz, who is in the merchandise business and is doing well; Mr. C. W. White, superintendent in the saw mill; Mr. George Laingor and Mr. Louis Todd, all doing well. Mr Laingor is assistant manager of the Olive Hotel. I was more than pleased to see their friendly faces, and am satisfied that they will like the country and especially the town of Coquille, as it is one of the best in Coos County. A saw mill is located in the town, sawing about 15000 feet daily. Mr. White has had charge of the mill about a year. Ten miles above Coquille City, on the river, is Myrtle Point, the head of navigation, while 30 miles below Coquille and at the mouth of the river is the picturesque town of Bandon. Myrtle Point is surrounded by a large farming and orchard country, while considerable logging is done also. Bandon is quite a summer resort, the ocean being right at its feet, and daily steamers run between Bandon and Myrtle Point. Between Coquille and Bandon are located Parkersburg and Randolph, both having large saw mills. Between the two places are also 2 large canneries. Salmon run very thick in season near the lower portion of the river, and the fishermen come from Astoria every season. Does it not surprise one that a railroad has not found its way into this land of resources? Money seems plentiful on all sides, and an idle man is hard to find. Just imagine, with almost inexhaustible timber belts, the ground one entire coal mine (you might say) and extensive farming and dairying, fishing canneries, shipping ports to sea, etc. It will surely not be very long before a railroad company will see the feasibility of building into the country. However, there is one thing I will not forget to mention, and that is the "lumber trust." Owing to that vast monopoly the saw mills on Coos Bay run only three weeks out of the month. The poor laborer is loser thereby, while the trust is reaping an indirect benefit. Would that there were a law making "trusts" a criminality. Then the mills would either run steadily, or not at all, giving the workmen a chance to devote their time to something exclusively. That is the only drawback to Coos County's industries. NEMO.
Trinity Journal, Weaverville, California, September 14, 1889, page 3BEFRIENDED THE WHITES
OLD CHIEF DOLOOSE, OF THE COOS BAY TRIBE. Indians Kindly Treated United States Dragoons, Who Were Wrecked Nearly 50 Years Ago.
The early pioneers of Oregon have a vivid remembrance that as they
pushed forward their plans of settlement they had more or less difficulty with
almost every tribe of Indians from the southern
boundary of the state to the British possessions. One tribe on the
Coast, that became known as the Coos Bay Indians, were friendly to the
early settlers, and they even gave protection to their new neighbors
when other tribes adjacent to them were on the warpath. The Coquille
tribe, whose possessions were only 20 miles away, were not so
peaceable.
They committed several depredations, one of which was the T'Vault massacre,
which took place in 1851, a few miles above the mouth of the Coquille
River. Five of the 10 men attacked were killed. T'Vault escaped, and
made his way to Port Orford. L. L. Williams and Cyrus Hedden escaped
after a fearful, hand-to-hand fight with the savages. The former was
dangerously wounded. Making their way to Coos Bay, Williams and Hedden
were kindly treated by Doloose, John and George, the three chiefs of
that tribe. It is said that the Coos Bay Indians had erected a rock
pyramid a few miles south of Cape
Arago, and had decreed that no Indian would be permitted to
molest white settlers north of that pile of rock. It often happened
that white men were glad to reach this place when coming from the
south, for they knew that the Coos Bay Indians would not only protect
them from violence, but would supply them with food.
About the time [of] the T'Vault massacre, or soon afterward, Dr. Dart, Spalding and Parrish arrived at Port Orford with two Indian interpreters. Their mission was to look after the tribes along the Coast. Parrish at once proceeded to the scene, being permitted to do so by Superintendent Dart. The chief, Saguami, received him cordially, and gave up the gun and some clothing that he had taken from T'Vault and offered to accompany Mr. Parrish back to Port Orford. On the way the treacherous rascal murdered the unsuspecting Parrish, quartered his body, and, by the aid of his squaw, carried the pieces to the Indian village. [Parrish was unharmed, living until 1895.] These depredations soon reached the ears of the government, and troops were sent by water to Port Orford. The schooner Capt. Lincoln, an old craft of about 300 tons, was sent from Benicia, Cal., with Troop C, First United States Dragoons, consisting of 35 men, commanded by First Lieutenant Henry W. Stanton. The schooner was wrecked about two miles north of Coos Bay bar, then known as "Cowes" or "Kowes" Bay. This was January 2, 1852. The vessel was commanded by Captain Naghel, who succeeded in saving his men and a large amount of cargo, which were sent ashore and a camp established. The Indians, led by Doloose and the two other chiefs, visited the wreck and helped the dragoons to carry freight to camp. They gave the men fish, and did everything possible to assist them in their forlorn condition. H. H. Baldwin, now living at Bandon, at the mouth of the Coquille River, was one of the troopers. Though the Indians seemed kind, the white men expected treachery, but the only bad trait shown by the natives was a disposition to steal small articles from the camp. The company got spars and sails ashore and, as Mr. Baldwin says, "In a few days quite a large and handsome sailcloth village raised its head and graced the sands of that wild beach, the terra incognita of the far West." After remaining three weeks in camp, and constantly associating with the Indians, the troopers were visited by Patrick and James Flanagan, James Maxey, Edward Breen and Peter Johnson, who were engaged in mining at Randolph. They had heard through the natives of the disaster and went for the purpose of giving relief, if needed, but the relief required could be given only by an order from some military officer for them to abandon property. Until Messrs. Flanagan and company visited them they did not know where they were, but they have always felt grateful that they fell into the hands of the docile and friendly Coos Bay Indians. In May, 1854, the Coos Bay Commercial Company was organized at Jacksonville, Or., by P. B. Marple, and a company of about 40 men went to Coos Bay. They first came into contact with the Coquille tribe of Indians, which, though but 20 miles away from Coos Bay, were a distinct tribe. Although they were comparatively friendly, the adventurers saw that it was necessary to watch them closely, as signs of hostility were apparent. As soon as Marple and his associates arrived at their destination they found a better class of natives. Doloose and the other two chiefs were friendly and ready to oblige them, and their friendship continued until, at the close of the Indian war of 1855-56, the Coos Bay tribe was taken to the Siletz Reservation. It is said by the old settlers, who knew the chiefs personally and their tribe, that there are but few of them now living. Some of the young men of the old natives occasionally visit Coos Bay and fish, but they are obliged to obtain permission from those in charge of the reservation. Doloose is still living on Coos Bay. Notwithstanding the friendship shown by the Coos Bay tribes, the people feared that they might be induced by the Coquille natives as well as the bloodthirsty Rogue River savages to massacre the whites; therefore, a company was raised and a fort built at Empire City, where the women and children were placed at night. This was about the time of the massacre at the mouth of Rogue River. Mrs. [Esther M.] Lockhart, the first white woman to settle on Coos Bay, who has filled the chair as president of the Coos County Pioneer and Historical Society, says in one of her interesting reminiscences: "For the first few weeks all went smoothly enough. The Indians were friendly, too friendly in fact, for their calls at the cabin with requests for food became too frequent. Gradually there came mutterings of discontent among them. They looked on us with jealous eyes, and declared we had stolen their illahee (land). Finally, one Sunday, about six weeks after our arrival, a party of 50 or 60 Indians, dressed in war paint and feathers, armed with bows and arrows, with an Umpqua Indian as an interpreter, came to our cabin, demanding that we give up everything and leave at once. We had no right there, they said. We were fighting [sic] the fish from the water, and already there were fewer ducks and geese because of our presence; soon there would be nothing left for the Indian; the paleface would own everything. Mr. Lockhart listened quietly to their threats and complaints and, buckling his revolver about his waist, mounted a stump and addressed them, telling them we had come to stay; that we wanted to help the Indian, and would improve the land so that the country would be better; that the Great Father at Washington had told the white men to come and live there. He finally succeeded in pacifying them, and they said we might stay, but no other people could come. A week afterward the Indians again visited the family, and their demands and insolences caused much anxiety. Mr. Lockhart, who was then living at North Bend, four miles from the fort at Empire, loaded his family and a portion of their supplies into a canoe and paddled down to the fort in the night. The Indians discovered them after they had got well out in the stream, and hallooed, 'Nika clatawa,' ['I go' in Chinook jargon--apparently an error for 'Wake clatawa,' 'Do not go.'] and fired a few arrows, which fell in the water nearby. This was about the only hostile movement that can be remembered to have taken place with this tribe. Mr. Lockhart had a small family of little girls, and one can easily imagine the heartfelt anxiety that the mother felt for the safety of her dear ones when the awful massacre at the mouth of the Rogue River was fresh in their minds." Of the natives along the Coast there were 12 tribes. From their habits and pursuits they were considered as one nation, and were denominated as the To-To-Tin, or Tututni, the latter appellation being applied to them by early visitors. Eight of the bands, or tribes, were located along the coast from the mouth of the Umpqua River to below the mouth of the Rogue River. They had intermarriages, a common language and a common interest. The Nasoma, with Chief John, was located at the mouth of the Coquille River. The Choc-re-le-a-ton band, with Washington as chief, was located at the forks of the Coquille. Each tribe had its villages, hunting and fishing grounds. The whites found these tribes with a kind of patriarchal form of government peculiar to themselves. They were supplied by nature with a liberal hand, and gathered an abundance of subsistence. Wild game was plentiful, and the rivers abounded with fish, and the coast with a great variety of shellfish. They seemed to be free from disease, but showed evident marks of smallpox, as that disease had been among them a decade or two before. Their houses were constructed by excavating a hole in the ground 12 or 16 feet square, and four or five feet deep. Upon the top of these holes boards were placed for the roof. In the gable end a round hole was made sufficiently large for the entrance of one person. The descent was made by passing down a pole upon which rude notches were cut, which served as steps. In the spring they gathered the stalks of wild celery and wild sunflower, and ate them with a relish. Tobacco was the only article cultivated. The Indians spoke of it as having always been cultivated by their fathers; hence it must have been indigenous to the country. They did not seem to have any religious worship. Their idea of a supreme being was extremely vague. They did not seem to know the value of gold and silver. They had shells that traders from the Hudson's Bay Company had traded them for furs, and it was their circulating medium. The shells were of a spiral shape, and their value was calculated by the length or size of the shell. "Hyakwa chick" was the name given to this money. They had no stock, not even the traditional pony. The females of the tribes packed the game from the mountains and dried the fish for winter use. An incident occurred at Empire City, the first town built on Coos Bay, the relation of which may not be out of place at the close of this brief article. Some time after Burton and Venable were murdered, on Dead Man's Slough, a tributary of the Coquille, an Indian came into Empire City with a roll of blankets strapped on his back, and one of the murdered men's names was plainly printed on the outside blanket, which was noticed by the white settlers. The Indian went below the town and entered Doloose's camp. A squad of white men was formed, who went down to the camp. After some difficulty, they found the object of their search, who had been covered up by some of the squaws with a lot of old rubbish. They arrested him, and found to their satisfaction that he had the blankets that belonged to the murdered men. Doloose was perfectly willing to give him up when he saw the evidence of his guilt. A jury was impaneled, a trial had, and the prisoner was condemned to the scaffold. The detail appointed to prepare the gallows cut a long pole and placed the large end on the crotch of a tree at a convenient height. The small end of the pole was lifted up in the air. A rope was adjusted around the neck of the Indian and attached to the pole. At a given signal the long end of the pole was rapidly pulled to the ground, and the Indian was hanged. This was the first execution in Coos County. However, two other Indians who were implicated in the same murder were hanged at Randolph, 20 miles south of Coos Bay. The Indians to a great number witnessed the hanging of the one at Empire City. They seemed to flock in from every quarter, and made doleful sounds as the stern reality of the law's power was carried out. They preserved the peculiar gallows for a long time, utilizing it for the purpose of hanging their dogs, at which times they had general gatherings, and seemed to enjoy the proceeding very much. ORVIL
DODGE.
Sunday
Oregonian, March 18, 1900, page 19THE AWAKENING OF COOS BAY
Coos Bay extends inland from the Pacific Ocean, on the Oregon Coast,
about seven miles northeast, and then bends abruptly southeast about
the same distance; its upper bay is protected by a promontory about
four miles wide and five to six hundred feet high. Several tide-water
inlets branch from the main channel, some of them navigable for several
miles at high tide by vessels drawing from ten to fifteen feet of
water. The United States government is now planning very extensive
dredging operations in order to make this not only the safest, but the
most commodious harbor on the long coastline between San Francisco and
Puget Sound, a distance of almost a thousand miles. By MITCHELL MANNERING Rich in standing timber, possessing the only coal measure on the Pacific Coast south of Puget Sound, surrounded by a fine agricultural district, with thriving cities on its borders, Coos Bay, in Southern Oregon, is the latest point on the Pacific Coast to be made a great seaport, and is attracting thousands of home-seekers by its rapidly increasing growth, and assured prosperity. This rich tract has hitherto been neglected by the railroads, and only in recent years have capitalists realized its great natural resources and begun the era of real development. There are four cities: Empire, the oldest settlement near the harbor entrance; North Bend, with its big mills; Marshfield, the largest city, at the head of the bay, and Eastside, newly incorporated, standing opposite Marshfield on the east side of the bay. All are so situated that it is only a question of time when they will probably become one large city. Passenger boats and many larger lumber schooners are engaged in coastwise and foreign commerce, among them the Nann Smith, named for Mr. C. A. Smith's eldest daughter, having a carrying capacity of 2,350,000 feet of lumber; she has carried an immense quantity of timber in the past year, and when the harbor is deepened by local capital a vast increase is expected in the trade. C. A. Smith and L. J. Simpson, representing two great lumber plants, have already each subscribed $10,000 for harbor improvements. Some years ago a short jetty was built which more than met the estimate of the engineers; there is now twenty-one feet of water on the bar at low tide, but forty feet can be obtained, as engineers declare that there is no rock ledge on the bar, and that deepening the channel is an easy matter. Officers of the army engineering corps have made a survey, and from this have recommended to Congress a big appropriation for this purpose. The vast quantity of standing timber in the Coos Bay country can scarcely be realized, for there is probably not another place in the world where so much timber is found near a fine harbor affording manufacturing and shipping advantages. It is estimated that, within a radius of sixty or seventy miles from Coos Bay, and so located that the harbor is the natural outlet, there is something like a hundred billion feet of standing timber; that is, about one-third of the standing timber in Oregon, and one-tenth of that in the entire United States is here. The principal variety is fir, intermixed with spruce, red cedar and the Port Orford or Coos Bay white cedar, which is very valuable in ship building or wherever the lumber is to be subjected to the action of water; there are also maple, ash, alder and myrtle, the latter admitting of a beautiful polish and being extensively used for furniture and residence fittings. Now that the standing timber in the Middle West is rapidly becoming exhausted, lumbermen are transferring their interests to the Pacific Coast. A little over a year ago the C. A. Smith Lumber & Manufacturing Company bought a large tract on Isthmus Inlet, at the head of the bay adjoining Marshfield, and an old mill was purchased and remodeled to turn out lumber to build the new saw mill and its auxiliary structures. There is yet a year's work to be done in constructing additional plants, lumber yards and general improvements, but the Smith Company has now begun to cut lumber in earnest. Seven lumber camps are operated by the firm to supply logs to the mill, which can cut about 30,000 feet of lumber an hour, and when completed will be one of the largest saw mills in the United States; with the other mills, it will make Coos Bay one of the most important American lumber-shipping ports. The Minneapolis mill, owned by Mr. Smith, which is the largest in the world, must close in a few years for want of raw material, and Mr. Smith's vast lumber interests will then be centered on the Pacific Coast. His new Coos Bay plant is strictly modern in design, with all improvements, and is built for permanent business. No expense was spared in procuring the latest and best milling machinery, and it has its own fire protection system, electric lighting plants and water works, a fine machine shop, engine and boiler houses and many other buildings--in fact, it is a little city of itself, standing where a year ago there was only a vacant field. The Smith Company has provided residences for the men with families, a boarding house for the unmarried employees and a beautiful office building where the office force work and live. The latter is three stories high and contains fine sleeping rooms, a first-class restaurant and billiard hall, bowling alley and baths. In this building Mr. Smith and other members of the firm have private apartments which they and their guests occupy when at Marshfield. Lumber to supply local consumption is handled on little cars run on a tramway to the local lumber yard at Marshfield. Eastbound lumber is shipped by water to San Francisco, where, at Bay Point on the Sacramento River, the Smith Company own a large tract of land with water front. Here will be built a town and a planing mill to finish lumber for shipment east by rail, two roads having branches to Bay Point. Finished lumber must be moved by rail, which makes it necessary to ship the lumber in the rough to Bay Point. The Simpson Lumber Company of San Francisco operates at North Bend a large saw mill, sash and door factory, etc. L. J. Simpson, the local manager, is still a young man, and has been prominent in promoting the progress of Coos Bay. He founded the city of North Bend, gave financial aid and personal service and has reason to be proud of the beautiful and prosperous little city of 2500 people, with many factories, fine waterfront and elegant residences, which now stands where five years ago there was only a settlement of four houses. In Coos County there are 400 square miles of coal lands, lying near the surface and easily and cheaply mined; it is a lignite of good quality, and is the only coal found to any extent on the Pacific Coast south of Puget Sound. Here coal has been mined in a small way for years, but capital is now being secured and Coos Bay will doubtless be a great Pacific coaling station. The Southern Pacific Railway Company is enlarging its coal output, and investors are beginning to develop the coal fields. Petroleum is also found here, but has not yet been developed. Coos Bay is building ocean-going schooners and gasoline launches, and has fish canneries, a condensed milk plant, creameries, a furniture factory, cold storage plant, brewery and many other industries. In Marshfield four large concrete and brick business buildings, many smaller stores, and scores of residences and cottages have been or are being erected. All the bay cities are lighted by electricity and have a good water supply, the houses are fitted with modern conveniences, and the retail stores are first-class in every respect. Coos County is an ideal section for the farmer, with its mild winters and luxuriant grazing, choice livestock and improved dairying methods, and the dairymen are getting rich. The orchard and small fruit industry is also rapidly increasing in importance. As a summer resort, Coos Bay has many attractions--beautiful scenery, lakes, rivers abounding in trout, mountains which are the hunter's paradise, and boating and sea bathing are all within easy reach of the bay cities. The climate is healthful; in winter there is rain, but no snow and no severe cold. The summer heat is never excessive, the nights are cool, the days bright and pleasant and the sunshine brilliant. Add to these desirable climatic conditions, the educational and religious advantages and refined social life of the city, and one finds the Coos Bay cities delightful either to reside in or to visit. Railways are needed at Coos Bay; one small road connects Marshfield with the Coquille Valley towns; it is owned by the Southern Pacific, and this company has surveyed a line from Drain over the mountains to Coos Bay. It is understood that a coastline route will be extended to Eureka and San Francisco. Some grading on the line has already been done; bridges have been built and material for work to be done has been brought, so that there is reason to believe that a transcontinental road will make Coos Bay a terminus and so create another seaport outlet on the Pacific Coast. Unlike many new places, Coos Bay is not being "made" by the railroad; she is a little empire by herself, is building up rapidly and could, if she chose, be independent of the rest of the country, but that is not her desire; she is ready for cooperation, and offers to dairymen, farmers and fruit-growers a delightful climate, good health, beautiful home sites, good investments for capitalists or men of moderate means; she beckons the thrifty to come and reap the harvest with her when she becomes a big city, a terminus of a transcontinental railroad and a seaport of importance in the Pacific Ocean commerce, nobly fulfilling her destiny. National Magazine, February 1909, pages 549-551 OLD COOS BAY STAGE LINE, RUN
SINCE 1868,
ROSEBURG, Or., April 22.--(Special)--Now that its day is gone,
swept
from the scene of usefulness by the establishment of a superior order
of things, it is with a feeling of homesickness that the practically
closed career of the old Coos Bay stage, the "age" in which was
inserted only last week by the advent of the Willamette-Pacific
Railroad, is considered.YIELDS TO RAILROAD Early Method of Transportation Played Important Part in Development of District--Pioneers Retain Memories of Difficulties of Ride-- Auto Took Place of Wagon in 1911. Like the desert flower, whose bloom is brief, the old trans-mountain line was a boon to the thousands who enjoyed its service in the days of the rustic past, but now its triumph is but a memory, yet a remembrance that is cherished because of its close association with the other pioneer institutions of the time. The stage, with its contemporaries, the horse and the rail fence along the road, and the contrivances used on the farm in place of the implements wielded by hand, have taken to the exits before the limelight of the 20th century. The stage in the early development of the Coos Bay territory played an important role, and it was a steady factor in bringing business to Roseburg. Service Started in 1868.
It carried mail and passengers over the mountains as early as
1868, but
since the railroad has become a competitor it will have little to do
besides serving the small communities on the route, and may be
discontinued shortly because of a lack of profits. So large was the
business while it enjoyed the trade alone that competition among the
contractors was keen, and many have been the private stages that
operated and thrived independently.Nowhere in the United States did any country flourish as well and so long as Coos County. It was called the "Hermit County," isolated because of the dangers and hazards involved in reaching it over the treacherous roads. Numerous and thrilling are the tales of hardship and excitement told by the visitors to that section, in "staging" it to reach there, while many said they marveled that they came back alive. Wind, rain, fog and dust are mere details scarcely mentioned, but the jostling of the anatomy from the boulders, the skidding in the dizzy grades, and the jerks, twists and lumberings of the early cumbersome vehicles will never be forgotten. Altogether, however, these experiences are treasured, and today a fracture or a scar obtained on the way becomes a mark of distinction. Auto Replaces Wagon.
It was not always the wagon, however. The stage lost most of its perils
and thrills as early as 1911, when Charles Barnard, now of Eugene, put
the first automobile on the route and made daily trips in the summer
time. This was on the Myrtle Point line, which was built some time
after the old Coos Bay wagon road. Although the mail was discontinued
on the old road for short periods, it was handled there almost steadily
until a couple of years ago, when all mail was routed over the Myrtle
Point road. Today the mail was sent via Eugene over the
Willamette-Pacific Railroad.According to H. C. Stanton, who was one of the early pioneer business men and postmasters of this city, the mail route and stage line to Coos Bay was established in 1868, one year after he received his commission as postmaster. Mr. Stanton served as postmaster for 18 years, and during his term all stages operating out of this city were put on. The others operated to Coles Valley and up the North Umpqua River. Mr. Stanton is now 77, but is still hale and hearty, and delights in narrating the early-day history of Douglas County. He says he has waited patiently for more than 50 years in expectation of witnessing rail connection between Western Oregon and the Coast. With his anticipations realized, Mr. Stanton believes that the next 10 years will witness the greatest development Coos Bay has ever known. Oregonian, Portland, April 23, 1916, page 5 Coos Bay Settlements Almost
Three-Quarter Century Old
The early history of Empire City and Coos Bay, Or., is colorful,
picturesque, vivid with the romance brought by the sea, and most
important in the development of Oregon. The early settlers were of a
hardy, adventuresome pioneer stock, that type of citizens who have
steadily pushed our frontier of civilization westward. Hardships,
privations and unknown dangers did not deter them, and it was this
spirit of determination which founded the first settlement on the coast
of southwestern Oregon at Empire City, Coos Bay.Empire City Scene of First Colonization in Southwestern Oregon Coast BY MARY CONN. These pioneers were attracted by stories of gold told by trappers, and while some gold is still being mined from the sand of the ocean beaches, gold is not counted among the present important resources of Coos Bay. Its many other possibilities persuaded them to remain and lay the foundation for the development to follow. The early settlers traversed the dense forests and explored the mountainous regions of southwestern Oregon, where the spruce, fir and cedar had not been disturbed by the white man's ax. Perry B. Marple led the first expedition, which left Jacksonville in July, 1853. Several families in the courageous party have descendants who have since become prominent in Coos County's development, including the Foleys, Nobles, Lockharts, Yoakums, Davises, Harrises and Sanfords. Travel Slow and Hard.
The party traveled by slow, tedious stages, and at times it was
necessary to take the wagons to pieces and carry the luggage through
narrow canyons, impassable to wagons. Instead of oxen, cows were used
to haul the heavily laden wagons, as these would furnish milk in the
unknown country to which they were going. An exploring expedition
previously had been sent into the country, but little was known of the
actual conditions.After many weeks of hardships the party reached the head of navigation on the Umpqua River, at the present site of Scottsburg. At this point rafts were made, on which were loaded all their earthly possessions, including the livestock. From there they floated down the peaceful waters of the Umpqua for some distance. After many tiresome days this courageous expedition first saw the waters of Coos Bay. Its fertile, green valleys, with many miles of inland waterways stretching in every direction, surrounded by hills covered with primeval evergreen forests, gave them new strength for the arduous task before them. The realization that they were now gazing upon the most westward harbor in America was a reward for all their weeks of danger and uncertainty. It was a glorious, sunshiny day, the flowers were in bloom everywhere, covering the hills with gorgeous masses of color, and the trials of the long, tedious trip were soon forgotten as they gazed with wonder at the beauty before them, realizing that they had at last reached their goal, Coos Bay. Natives Prove Friendly.
The only signs of human habitation were the cedar bark wigwams of the
natives, which dotted the sandy shores of the bay. Advance reports
indicated that the Coos Bay Indians were hostile, but, contrary to
beliefs held by many nowadays, their fears were soon allayed, as the
chief made a hospitable call and welcomed the settlers to Coos Bay,
offering the services of himself and the tribe.They furnished the new arrivals with shellfish, their principal article of diet, and taught them how to cook the large Empire clams peculiar to the locality. They rowed the white settlers up the many inlets tributary to the tidal basin and showed them every kindness and consideration. When selecting the site for the future city these early pioneer town builders took into consideration every possibility of the water line of Coos Bay and finally decided upon the present site of Empire as the most desirable location. The ground was level, with miles of deep water frontage within a few miles of the entrance to the harbor, and an adequate supply of pure, fresh water from the lakes and rivers adjoining was available. The settlers filed on donation claims, as they were called, under the law in effect at that time permitting a man and his wife to file on 320 acres. The only requirement was to set up stakes and file papers at the nearest land office, then at Oregon City, and to remain on the land half the time for four years, if conditions permitted. Settlers Join Hands.
Captain William H. Harris, Abraham N. Foley and his wife, Bersheba
Foley, filed on the donation claims on which the original town of
Empire was platted and which was later divided into lots and
apportioned among the settlers. Everybody worked to build the town,
which grew rapidly, becoming the distributing center for all of
southwestern Oregon and the headquarters for all pioneer mining,
lumbering an4 agricultural activities.It was the most important city and financial center of that part of the state. Until 1874 Empire had the only stores in what is now Coos County, although at that time a portion of Curry and Douglas counties were included in it. Empire became the county seat, and all legal proceedings and business of the county were transacted there. It is difficult to realize the handicaps which those early pioneers were forced to overcome in building their town, with no roads through the dense forests to the coast and the only means of travel by boat or pack train over narrow trails. In 1854 the first sawmill was built by H. H. Luse and a man named Moore, and was operated by Mr. Luse until 1882. Lumbering and deep-sea fishing were the chief industries of the town, and the first coal mining done on Coos Bay was at Empire. In 1854 the first cargo of coal was shipped by sailing vessel to San Francisco. Wild game abounded, and hunters had an easy time supplying the colony with meat. Empire was well named, as it proved a veritable empire in itself. Nature provided meat and sea foods of every description, and the country soon became the foremost dairying section in the state of Oregon. It was not until 1871 that it was felt necessary to open a meat market, and Donald McKay and H. B. Whitney started the butcher business. Prior to the opening of the shop the settlers took turns hunting, which was not a difficult task, as geese and ducks were plentiful. An old story says that a man went hunting for elk, and, returning with no meat, was asked why he had not been successful. He replied, "Oh, I saw 300 elk, but they were all spike bucks, and I didn't want to kill such young ones." This may have been exaggerated a bit, but it shows how abundant the game was in the early days. When the whites came there were no oysters at Empire, although large quantities of the shells were in evidence. The Indians said that there had once been many oysters, but that a great fire came in 1800 and burned for many days around the bay, which got so hot that the oysters were killed by the heat and ashes. The story handed down by the historians of the Coos tribe is that the Indians plastered the bottoms of their canoes with mud, put them in the shallow bay water and crawled beneath them to avoid death. At any rate, in recent years whenever the harbor is dredged or excavation work done large quantities of shells are uncovered. All the goods from the civilized world were brought from San Francisco in sailing boats which docked at Empire, discharging freight and ballast and proceeding up the bay to load coal and lumber. Empire's harbor was the best of the bay because of its deep water, and often vessels had to remain at anchor at Empire for considerable time before the tides would permit them to sail up the bay. Empire was a lively community of 1000 persons in those days, and the settlers established schools, hotels, saloons, dance halls and even had a weekly newspaper. Empire had four hotels, all of which had a flourishing trade, particularly the Pioneer. The oldest of the hotels was the Golden Eagle, built in 1854 by the late B. F. Ross, and the others were the Lockhart and the Bushnell. James Crouch built the Pioneer Hotel in 1865, selling it to Mrs. J. J. Jackson in 1869. It was destroyed by fire in 1884 and replaced the same year by a building moved from Utter City. The schoolhouse was built in 1865, and the first public school started with Mrs. E. M. Lockhart, owner of the Lockhart Hotel, as teacher. The building was erected from poles hewn on two sides, with a floor of split cedar. In 1868 a two-story structure, accommodating 50 pupils, was erected on the present site. Boat Building Grows.
Several
boats were constructed at Empire, including the schooner Elinor in 1869.
Numerous small river craft and steamers came later, such as the Coos,
a sidewheel passenger and freight boat, which was constructed for the
shallow water of Coos River and the many tidal estuaries flowing into
the bay.At this time Empire was the ship-building center for all of southwestern Oregon. The largest sailing vessels on the Pacific Coast and later the steamers made Empire one of the most important ports of call. Without harbor improvements of any kind and without harbor pilots, as all ports have today, those large sailing vessels came in over the bar many years before the sailors thought of improving the harbor. Occasionally a boat would be wrecked, and the first rescue ever made on the bay was that of the brig Jackson, which struck a rock on the South Spit in 1856. Captain J. J. Jackson, father of George Jackson, who now lives at Empire, led the rescue. At the time of the wreck he called for volunteers and only three would go, so dangerous was the undertaking during the stormy weather. Those volunteering were F. G. Lockhart, father of Herbert Lockhart of Marshfield; John Noble, stepson of Captain Jackson, and an Indian. The men made two trips to the scene of the disaster, struggling in a small boat through rough seas, escaping death almost by miracle, and brought 11 survivors to safety. Paper Widely Read.
One of the
early newspapers published in the town was called the Pacific Coast Ranger,
typical of country newspapers of that period. Nat L. Baker was editor,
and in 1880 the paper had the distinction of having the largest
circulation of the Pacific Slope, going to a larger number of post
offices than any other Republican paper within a radius of 100 miles,
but now only scattered copies of it remain, and many have forgotten
that it ever existed.The person now residing at Empire who has lived there longest is Mrs. Emily O. Saunders, who was the first white child born in Coos County. She is a member of the Noble family, [which] had the first birth, first marriage and first death in Coos County. Mrs. Saunders was born at Empire April 24, 1854. Louisa Noble, a small child, died in February, 1854, and Elizabeth Noble married Ames Rogers in 1857. Mrs. Noble, formerly Margaret Ann Harrison, after the death of her husband, Curtis Noble, married Captain J. J. Jackson, father of George Jackson. She had crossed the plains in a covered wagon by ox team from Independence, Mo., in 1852, and came to Empire the following year. She had the first vegetable garden in the town, and in the spring of 1854 served the first green peas and new potatoes which were ever grown in Coos County. These came from seed carried across the plains the preceding year. The family moved to Gold Beach, then called Ellensburg, in 1856, and did not return to Empire until 1867. There is one phase of the old Empire that must he mentioned, and that is the social life of the early pioneers. When a dance took place everybody came from far and near to spend the night--and that meant all night---dancing at Empire's dance hall. The crowds would arrive, traveling by foot, horseback or by rowboats, early in the evening and would stay until 6 o'clock next morning. George Jackson, who has spent 60 of the 68 years of his life in Empire, used to call the dances, and many times the two fiddlers would be forced to stop playing because the strings of their violins were worn out. Many a quadrille was danced by the Empire belles and beaux to a tune played on one string of an old-time fiddle. Of course, the usual square dances were popular at that time, and such melodies as the "Arkansas Traveler," "The Devil's Dream" and "The Girl I Left Behind Me" gave just as pleasing music to the young ladies of Empire in their stiffly starched calico dresses with long, puffy skirts and lacy pantalettes, as the modern syncopation thrills the flappers of today in their clinging, abbreviated dresses. The girls furnished the refreshments, too, Mr. Jackson says. They brought good, solid basket lunches, which, combined with coffee, made a hearty supper for the energetic dancers. The men drank a good deal, as there were eight well-patronized saloons in town, but the girls did not join in the drinking. Celebrations were known to last as long as two days and nights, especially on the Fourth of July, which was a gala event everywhere at Empire. Mill Gets Support.
To 1883 H. H. Luce disposed of all his holdings, including the mill, to
the Oregon Southern Improvement Company of Boston, which preceded the
Southern Oregon Company. This group of men, consisting of some of the
shrewdest railroad men in the East, called a meeting in Quincy hall at
Boston June 15, 1883 for the purpose of organizing a company for the
development of Southern Oregon.Numbered among these men were W. W. Crapo, a wealthy railroad operator, who owned the Flint & Pere Marquette Railroad, and Captain William H. Bessee, a whaler of Bedford, Mass., who had visited Coos Bay on whaling trips, and after seeing the harbor and realizing its value as one of the good ports on the Pacific Coast, had conceived the idea of forming a company and constructing a large sawmill at Empire. They voted the sum of $135,000 to Mr. Luse for his holdings at Empire and in 1884 William P. Metcalf, a railroad bridge builder and experienced architect, who constructed the Brooklyn [Bridge?], was placed in charge of this mill, which was modeled after the famous Port Blakely mill on Puget Sound. When completed it was the largest and best mill of its kind anywhere in the country. The mill operated for about a year and then closed down, later being reopened by George W. Loggie, an able mill man who was put in charge. It then ran for four years, during which time it put out the best quality flooring on the Pacific Coast. All other products were high grade, as the timber resources on Coos Bay were excellent. Under the direction of Mr. Loggie the best grades of lumber were manufactured, and the Empire mill became famous for its fine products.
Long Timbers Cut.
With the fishing industry, coal mines, vast forests of timber, deep sea
fishing and climatical advantages, together with its natural location
for a city, Empire's future seemed assured among the foremost cities of
the Pacific Coast.One of the most interesting facets of the mill was the long timbers that were cut for spars, masts, deck boards and other parts of the old sailing vessels. It was necessary for other mills on the Pacific Coast to splice these, but the machinery in the Empire mill was equipped with a carriage 150 feet in length, avoiding the necessity of weakening the spars. The mill was believed to have a capacity of 500 M a day. The old Oregon Southern Improvement Company became defunct, and all of its holdings were taken over by a newly organized company headed by Elijah and Prosper Smith, two old bachelors from Boston. This new organization was the Southern Oregon Company, who then owned the 2100 acres of waterfront property, including the mill, since [illegible] to the present year. The mill never operated after the acquisition of the land by this company, and consequently the early pioneers, who had depended upon the large payroll of the mill, were forced to look elsewhere for means of livelihood. At that time Empire's population was 1000, but it gradually diminished until there are fewer than 100 remaining in the once-prosperous city. It is a disheartening thought to go from this gay town, the center of Coos life and activity, to the Empire of today. Many of the old-timers still remain, forever attached to the land which their fathers settled, hoping for better times to come. Gradually the elements and time destroyed many of the buildings, and in 1924 the business district burned. On March 26 of this year the Pioneer Hotel, owned by Mrs. Emily O. Saunders, daughter of Mrs. J. J. Jackson, was destroyed by fire. This was the last of the business establishments of Empire, and a priceless collection of curios, valuable furniture and relics of the old Empire vanished in the flames. As a result of the tragedy of Empire Marshfield developed into a good-sized city, and later North Bend grew up. The county seat was moved from Empire, where all of Coos County's hangings have taken place, to Coquille in 1890. Marshfield, North Bend and the surrounding suburbs have a combined population of more than 15,000, and this is considered the most prosperous community in all southwestern Oregon. The Southern Pacific railroad was built to Coos Bay, and the government is now completing jetties in the entrance to the harbor at a cost of more than $3,000,000, which will place Coos Bay on a parity with the other five Pacific Coast harbors. It is declared to be the only good harbor between the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, and has attained a large payroll with the advent of the railroads, highways and harbor improvement. Sea Fishing Grows.
The resources of Coos Bay consist of 400 square miles of coal land and
180,000,000,000 feet of merchantable timber, one-twelfth of all the
timber in the United States. Since the advent of the railroad deep sea
fishing is becoming important, and in addition to salmon fishing there
is commercial promise for deep sea fishing just off the coast, as large
halibut banks have been located some 20 miles from shore, and black cod
have been caught in large numbers.This fishing has become of great commercial importance, and the value of the annual catch of the Coos Bay fishermen exceeds $2,000,000. Coos County has become a great dairying and agricultural center as well. The interior of Oregon, Southern Idaho and Northern California has other resources, such as minerals, wheat, livestock, hides, wool, fruits and diversified products, which should be and will be manufactured at Coos Bay, the natural distributing center for this vast interior territory. The country tributary to Coos Bay is equal in area to the states of Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and Delaware combined. A new project is well under way at Coos Bay, a project as important and colorful as that great section of the state itself, and that is the revival and rehabilitation of Empire City, one of the most desirable locations for a seaport city on the Pacific Coast. Empire was responsible for all the early development and present growth and prosperity of the country. City Plat Bought.
The Empire Development Company of Empire City, Or., has purchased the
original plat of Empire, 5000 acres adjoining, five miles of deep water
frontage, large stands of timber, the sawmill and numerous docks, and
has secured water rights for a minimum daily supply of 40,000,000
gallons of fresh water, sufficient to meet the future municipal and
industrial requirements of a large city. Free sites are offered to
industries, and many new factories will be constructed there within the
next 12 months.There are rumors that the Hill lines will build to Coos Bay and that several industrial projects are under way. The actual work of improving and clearing the land, grading the streets, installing the water system, building docks and other structures is now proceeding. Empire City, Or., the name of the town forms in the mind images of a thriving metropolis, seething with the ebb and flow of crowds, the distributing point for a vast territory. And Empire is now about to become what the name may connote. "Westward the course of empire takes its way"--that is the motto of the company which plans to put Empire in its rightful place as the gateway of Southern Oregon. The very salt breezes from the ripping bay at Empire's door breathe romance and adventure and accomplishment, and the honorable past which was Empire's deserves to culminate in a glorious future for the most western harbor on America's Pacific Coast. Oregonian, Portland, September 4, 1927, page 10 EARLY HISTORY
The following interesting story about early Coos County history was
read by Mrs. Bertha J. Smith before the Coquille Woman's Club last week:Of Coos County, Told to Woman's Club, by Mrs. Bertha J. Smith ----
Coos County was organized in December, 1853, and included the Coast
territory on the west from the California line extending north to
within eight miles of the Umpqua River. This Coast Empire was so
wonderfully prolific in animal life and fish, and food was so abundant
on every side that the native Indians were, for the most part, lazy and
peace-loving. It has been estimated that at the time of the first
settlement by white men that there were at least 2000 Indians living in
the coast country between the Umpqua and Port Orford.Coos County, as first formed, contained an area of about 1,660,000 acres, and was about 120 miles from north to south and 30 miles wide. It now contains 685,838 acres and is about 65 miles long north and south and about the same width as before. In the summer of 1853 Perry B. Marple strayed into Coos Bay and finding it all that he had been told by the Rogue River Indians it would be, he at once visualized an Empire, peopled by white men and women, who would till the soil and develop the many vast resources which were so apparent on every side. With this end in view he organized a company, called "The Coos Bay Commercial Co.," and everyone joining the company were given equal shares by paying to Marple $250. This company selected a large tract of land which includes the present town of Empire City and divided the tract into lots, although the town of Empire City was not incorporated until 1884. Many times the Indians came and insisted on the whites leaving. Mrs. Esther Lockhart, the mother of Mrs. Sengstacken, writes interestingly of these early days. She relates the story of one encounter after another which they had with the Indians and of having to escape by boats in the night to prevent being massacred and having their cabin burned. White women and white children were such a novel sight to the Indians that they offered all sorts of blankets and baskets in addition to their squaws to induce the white men to trade them their wives. Mrs. Lockhart and two other white women with their families arrived on Coos Bay on Oct. 18, 1853, and were the first white women to come to Coos Bay. The first school in the county was taught by Mrs. Lockhart at Empire City in 1854. The first settlements were in Empire and Randolph. Daniel Giles crossed over the Coquille River bar on May 15, 1854, in a boat made by himself. He was the first white man to cross the bar and sailed from Randolph to Port Orford. It has been estimated that not less than $10,000,000 in gold dust was taken from along the beaches between Gold Beach and Whiskey Run during the years 1853 to 1868. $80,000 was taken out of a place about 20 feet square. In reading the early history of Coos County one is impressed by the fact that the early pioneers had to fight for every bit of freedom and enjoyment which they obtained just as much as in the covered wagon days. The first cargo of lumber to be shipped from the Coquille River was in April, 1861. In May, 1859, Dr. Hermann and his Baltimore party arrived in Coos County. I understand that this was the beginning of the Schroeder clan in Coos County. The first 4th of July celebration was in 1859 at a picnic and barbecue and all-night dance held at a point near the present town of Myrtle Point. Russell Dement's father moved his family from Empire to a place above Myrtle Point and in so doing had experiences which now seem like a fairy tale, but since their mode of travel was so typical of that day, I shall describe it in part. Having come up the Bay and Isthmus Slough with his wife and son, Russell, and his household belongings and blacksmith tools, for some twenty miles, they found that they had a stretch of low hills to cross that divided the waters of Coos Bay from the waters of the Coquille. The distance was a mile and a quarter, and a very difficult task it was to move all their freight on their backs for that distance. The ever-present red man was on hand to offer the services of his pack train, which consisted of the wives, daughters, mothers and sweethearts of the "noble red men," and this train of squaws and Indian maids showed surprising strength in handling heavy freight. An anvil weighing 150 pounds was attached to a strap and the strap placed across a squaw's forehead, and then she swung the anvil on her back and carried it across the portage with seeming ease. The male Indians were averse to labor of any kind, and seldom paddled their own canoes, but always compelled the squaws to paddle for them. When they arrived at Beaver Slough their real troubles began. The natives put small poles across the trail to enable them to slide their canoes across the portage, then they must travel down Beaver Slough through overhanging willows and thorny crabapple trees, which so thickly lined the banks with interlocked branches that it was very difficult to get through so narrow a passage, besides every few hundred yards they would encounter beaver dams, which had to be partly removed or else the canoes had to be lifted over them. Then, when the open waters of the Coquille River were reached, a camp was made on the banks of the river for the night. Then, when the tide was favorable in the morning they started for what is now known as Norway. They camped there the second night and on the third day the mouth of the South Fork of the Coquille River was reached, so three days were consumed in traveling a distance which would now require about one hour. We hear so much in these days about scarcity of work and an oversupply of workers as though it was a condition peculiar to these present times, and so it is interesting to note that as far back as 1870 there were about four men for every job. At that time flour sold for $10 a barrel, cash, and was scarce at any price, and at the same time there was no employment for anyone for cash wages, so the problems were as great or greater than those of this present time. On July 4, 1872, a celebration was held in the grove where Coquille now stands, and J. H. Nosler delivered an oration in which he prophesied that before long people would be riding in buggies and on steamers and railroad cars, but the older settlers disapproved very much of such predictions and said that anyone who wasn't satisfied with the present improvements and modes of travel had better return to his former home. It is gratifying to know that Judge Nosler lived long enough to see all his predictions a reality and many more improvements besides. In 1873 the Coos Bay Wagon Road from Roseburg to Coos City was completed, and that was the first road in this county, if indeed it could be called a road at all. The first court house was built in Empire City in 1872. It was made of split lumber and cost $4000. Prior to that time the records had been kept in private homes. The records were moved to Coquille into the new court house in 1898. The first church, being of the Methodist denomination, was organized in 1857. The railroad was built into Coquille in 1893. The value of Coos County in 1930 was $28,418,470.00, and the total tax against all Coos County property was $1,735,958.72, and of this amount the special school tax was $493,098.51, not including elementary schools nor per capita tax. The population of Coos County in 1920 was 22,257 and in 1930 was 28,373. The population of Coquille in 1920 was 1642 and in 1930 was 2732. Our school tax in the last 15 years has increased 51.59 percent. The total school tax for 1931 is $717,698.51. The total cash payments and apportionments for 1930 was $835,138.13. Coquille Valley Sentinel, October 23, 1931, page 8 Last revised September 3, 2025 |
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