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The Infamous Black Bird Southern Oregon History, Revised


The Lost Wagon Train, 1845
Initially captained by W. G. T'Vault, later disastrously piloted by Stephen Meek. The legend of the Blue Bucket Mine is not referenced in the diary.

EMIGRANTS OF 1845.
    There is no authentic record known to be in existence of the emigration of 1845. But we are furnished with the following names of persons who were in Captain T'Vault's company from memory, by W. J. Herren and Rufus A. Riggs, of this city. There were 98 males in that company enrolled for guard duty over 16 years of age. It will be seen that the list is nearly complete of the grown males.
THE GUARD ROLL.
W. G. T'Vault, Capt. Milton Riggs
Fred Waymire Rufus A. Riggs
John Waymire John Packard
James McNary Elisha Packwood
Alexander McNary Charles Packwood
John McNary George Shaser
Hugh McNary Mike Wauch/Wanck
Jesse Harritt Doc Ralph Wilcox
Alanson Smith Walter Wilcox
Wm. Cole Jacob Hampton
John Herren W. J. Herren
Doc Canby Abner Fickle
John C. Herren James Hayes
Sim Herren Filburn Hampton
Wm. T. Wallace Charles Steward
Tom Cowen, the indefatigable Hiram Acard
    cow driver ---- King Son
Isham Cox John King
James Fields Stephen King
James Riggs Isaac King
Sol King Asa B. Simmons
Henry Noble Amos King
Tom Cochran Alexander Noble
A. Fuller [probably Aaron Fuller] Harvey Cromwell
Price Fuller John Dickey
Henry Fuller A. Conoly
Lucien Horton Harvey Laughlin
R. Chamberlain J. H. Hess
John Forrest David Layfield
Isaac Staats Dan Trender
Stephen Staats L. M. Pitman
John Durbin George Pitman
Sol Durbin ---- Flournoy
Ike Durbin Lewis LaFleur
Dan Durbin ---- Cunningham
John Martin A. Rhinehart
James M. Allen Wm. McKinney
John Johnson Sanford Henshaw
Robert Owens ---- Hunt
Samuel Simmons ---- Durfield
Wm. Simmons Philip Marris
B. Hart Isaac Butler
Charles Brown Hiram Johnson
---- Ford Sid Ford
Rev. Newman John Newman
    The census of Capt. T'Vault's Co. as taken from James Field's journal when the company had just started from St. Joseph is as follows:
    Males over 16, 98; females over 14, 57; males under 16, 78; females under 14, 60; wagons, 66; oxen, 453; loose cattle, 649. Any persons having any further information relating to this company are requested to send it to W. J. Herren, of this city, or to this office.
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, June 15, 1877, page 1


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Weston, Platte Co., Mo., April 16, '45.--Got under way this day at 12 m.[noon]. Took the road to St. Joseph; went about 9 miles, and camped.
    17th.--This stay started in the morning; went 22 miles more, and camped about 6 miles below St. Joseph, which is now in sight, situated at the foot of the Missouri bluffs, at the far side of a prairie lying between us and it.
    18th.--Struck off in a different direction to the lower ferry, six miles from us, where we crossed the Missouri about 2 miles from the emigrant camp, which we joined this evening. There we remained until the 29th, in the afternoon, when, in company with about 80 wagons, we rolled out about 3 miles and formed an encampment in the prairie, for the purpose of herding the cattle as they were collected in from the Missouri bottom, where they were badly scattered, and some never recovered.
    Friday, the second day of May, the order was given by the Captain to prepare for starting at 9 that morning. Everything and everybody were anxious for this, and, at the appointed hour we started, and went to Wolf River, in the bottom of which we camped that evening, near a Sac village, 12 m. We passed about noon through the camp of a portion of the emigration company who started from Elizabethtown the present spring. They were on Mosquito Creek, and near the encampment was a dead Indian placed in the top of a tree, in a trough covered with bark. Some gentleman who accompanied us as far as our camp on Wolf River there took the census of our company, which I will here insert:
    66 wagons; 453 oxen; 649 loose cattle; 1102 total number cattle; 185 shooting-irons of all kinds; males over 16, 98; females over 14, 57; males under 16, 78; females under 14, 60; total number of souls, 293.
    Sat. 3.--Bridged Wolf River in the morning, which occupied the time to 11 o'clock, when we started and went to a small creek a few miles east of the Indian Agency, where we camped, 8 m. [miles].
    Sun. 4.--Went about 12 miles today, across the levelest country we have found since leaving the Missouri River, the whole distance prairie.
    Mon. 5.--Started early; went 14 miles, and camped on a beautiful rolling prairie, near the borders of a small piece of timber with a small creek passing through it. We occupied the same ground the emigration camped upon the preceding year, some of us kindling our fires with the unconsumed fragments of theirs. The country we have passed through since passing
Wolf River has been a fine, gently rolling prairie, well adapted for farming purposes, but nearly destitute of timber.
    Tues. 6.--Had a small flare-up this morning in the camp, the captain, T'Vault, verbally resigning his commission last evening, in presence of the committee of safety, a meeting was by them called early this morning to take into consideration the resolutions they had adopted, and which had given him offense. After some parleying, during which it was apparent that the company would split if the resolutions were adopted, and that the captain had changed his mind about resigning, the meeting broke up of each one's own accord, after the resolutions had been partly acted upon, and at 12 m. we struck up our line of march as though nothing had occurred. Five oxen, two horses, and two mules had strayed during the night, and a child in camp was considered at the point of death, which was the cause of our delay in starting, the other affair being over before the usual starting time. We made 7 miles, and camped at 4 on Wolf River again, it running a s.e. course past camp.
    Wed. 7.--Made 14 miles, and camped on the same stream for the last time. The men who went back yesterday returned to camp this morning, having found the mules which had strayed back within a few miles of the Indian Agency. They report the Elizabethtown company as being 2 days' march in our rear, keeping our trail, and that they are a larger company than ours.
    Thurs. 8.--We went about 12 miles today, but found the pilot had taken a wrong divide, and had to double back about two or three miles, when we camped upon a small creek running southwest, so that we only made about 9 miles. The country still maintains the same character, a nearly level prairie, with occasionally a small grove of timber upon the watercourses, but the soil seems getting thinner.
    Frid. 9.--This morning the pilot informs us that the divide we were following yesterday was one leading into a pocket in the Nemaha and its branches, into which the emigration company got last year, and from which it took two weeks to disentangle themselves, being that time in making only four miles direct travel. Their wheel tracks were imprinted all over the prairie, and in all directions, and this helped discomfit our pilot. Today we crossed the creek we had camped upon, and went about 16 miles in a direction a little west of south, and camped on a branch of the Nemaha again. Our course previous to this had been north of west, and, for the last day, nearly north, in order to head Wolf River, which heads near the great bend in the Nemaha before spoken of, and, in order to shun which, it is necessary to turn at a very short angle after heading Wolf River.
    Sat. 10.--Went 12 miles, nearly the same course as yesterday, and camped on another branch of the Nemaha. Just as we were entering camp, saw 3 antelope, the first game of any size since leaving the Missouri, although for the past few days we have found buck and elk horns on the prairie, frequently. An incident occurred last Wednesday night which I omitted to note, and, this being Saturday night, I will here mention it, to bring the week square. It was nothing less than the marriage of a romantic girl of 13, name Miss Packwood, to her father's teamster, Mike Wanck, a kind of New York Dutchman, of no very prepossessing appearance or manners, and, I presume, he was to her a perfect stranger a short time since.
    Sund. 11.--Went about 17 miles today, and camped upon the east fork of the Nemaha. The grass, which for 2 or 3 days has been getting worse, is now so short it is difficult for our oxen to fill themselves. This is owing to no lack of soil, but drought and frost.
    Mon. 12.--Today went about 6 miles, crossing both forks of the Nemaha, and camping near the west one. A meeting was here called to decide whether our pilot, who had been employed only to pilot us to Burnett's trace, as the road from Independence to Ft. Laramie is called, and who now informed us we were within 4 miles of it, should now be employed to go on to Fort Laramie with us or not. He had been employed to Burnett's trace for $30, and we now engaged him to go on with us for $100 more to Fort Laramie, which sum was raised by voluntary subscription. There had also been some dissatisfaction in camp about the conduct of the captain for some days past, and the manner he enforced the regulations of the camp, or rather the neglect of all regulations. He now offered to resign the moment a majority named another captain, and made another grandiloquent speech on the subjects of the frailties of human nature, the beauties of democracy, and the majesty of the sovereign people; and was followed by Fred Waymire--they two being the only orators of our camp--the latter entering into a learned disquisition upon the wanderings of the children of Israel in the wilderness without a pilot, the necessity of harmony in our camp, and what high living, salmon, and bacon would be in Oregon. A call being then made, no other candidate was offered for captain, and the meeting adjourned, after ordering the captain and committee of safety to draft a set of camp regulations.
    Tues. 13.--Went nine miles today, crossing the Big Blue, and camping upon it near the ford. About 4 miles from our yesterday's camp we struck the road from Fort Laramie to Independence, 150 miles from the latter place, and near some high Indian mounds on our left. We saw the camping place of last year's emigration company, near the ford, and they appear to have lain there several days, from the number of trees cut. I understood that a part of them encamped on the far side of the river the evening they arrived at it, and it arose during the night, thus dividing the company, as the part on the left bank had to remain some days before crossing. There were names cut upon some trees, with the date, June 10th, 1844. We are nearly a month ahead of last year's company, according to that, and the first on the trail this year, as is evident from its appearance.
    Wed. 14.--We lay in camp today, in order to give the women a chance to wash up a little, and some of the wagons also stood in need of slight repairs, which were made. Toward evening a small company of 30 wagons from Independence camped within 2 miles of our rear, and they inform us that the main company from that point is only 2 days' march in their rear.
    Thurs. 15.--Went about 16 miles; crossed the Republican fork of the Kansas, and camped near its right bank. This evening we hear that the company we passed on Mosquito Creek is intending to occupy the camp this evening that we left this morning, being within a day's travel of us.
    Frid. 16.--Went about 18 miles, and camped upon a small creek running into Kansas River. Saw 3 elk, the first of those animals we have seen. The country for the past few days is considerably broken and rocky.
    Sat. 17.--Today, we went about 17 miles, and camped on another branch of the Kansas. About 10 miles from our last camp met a company of mountain men, 35 days from Fort Laramie, with 6 ox wagons loaded with peltries, They inform us that buffalo are plenty this season, and that we are within 10 days' travel of them. They traded some of their dried meat for bacon, and it really was well flavored, though cured without salt, and quite put us in a rage to reach the ranges. This evening Capt. T'Vault, with whom many of the company were dissatisfied, resigned, and Jas. McNary was appointed to succeed him.
    Sund. 18.--Went about 15 miles, the prairie appearing to have been very wet last season, as the deep wheel ruts the emigrants made are still visible alongside the regular trail. The country is broken by numerous watercourses, but they are at present nearly all dry. Camped upon Walnut Creek.
    Mon. 19.--Came 20 miles, the longest drive we have yet made, and the latest camping, it being nearly dark when all got in, and some of the loose stock were left 2 miles behind. About 8 miles from the last camp crossed Sandy Creek, which might more properly be called Muddy, being the worst ford we have yet had. This evening camped upon Little Blue, of which Sandy is a fork. These streams are all waters of the Kansas.
    Tues. 20.--Went 12 miles today, camping again on Little Blue, which appears at present to be a larger stream than Big Blue, having a deeper channel and more rapid current. An antelope was killed, it being the only game, excepting a turkey killed by the same person, taken since leaving the rendezvous, but fish have been quite plenty since crossing the Nemaha.
    Wed. 21.--Were detained in the morning to hunt stray oxen, which was also the cause of our short drive yesterday; we however made fifteen miles, camping still on Blue.
    Thurs. 22.-- Went about fifteen miles again up the Blue, whose bottom we have kept in most of the time since striking the stream, and we again camped on it, in the first thundershower of consequence we have yet had on the prairies. Camping in a thunderstorm is one of the pleasures of an emigrant which makes him think of the home he leaves behind, and to unyoke a team in the rain and then crawl draining into a wagon will make the shadows of departed joys flit through a fellow's mind as he sits brooding over the comforts of life in an emigrant's camp.
    Frid. 23.--Still raining this morning. We lay in camp until near noon then went 4 miles and camped, the pilot telling us that it was the last camp we could make on Blue.
    Sat. 24.--Owing to the straying of some oxen, it was 9 o'clock before we got in motion, striking off in a northwest direction for Platte River, on which we expected this evening to camp. About noon the pilot ran us off the track, and we doubled back, losing some two or three miles travel, and, when we struck off on the right trail, we hurried with all speed, but night overtook us in the prairie, and we were obliged to camp in the prairie, without fire or water, and most of us without any supper, after traveling 25 miles. Saw more game, deer and antelope, this day than during the whole previous journey. Their abundance is no doubt owing to their vicinity to the buffalo, which are better worth hunting. We also crossed three trails leading to the Pawnee villages. These trails looked as though they were made by six or seven parallel files of horsemen.
    Sun. 25.--Gathered up the oxen as soon after daylight as possible, and went five miles, to Platte River, where we camped for the day. This stream bears a close resemblance to the Missouri River, only its bottom has much less timber in it, has few snags, and never overflows its banks, although they are always full. During the afternoon, the small company in our rear from Independence passed, in two divisions, they having split through.
    Mon. 26.--It was raining heavily this morning, and we did not start until it ceased, toward 11 o'clock. However, we made about 15 miles, camping upon the river, with nothing but willow bushes for firewood, and most of them green ones at that. Went the most direct course along the level bottom of any day's travel yet, our direction being near w.s.w.
    Tues. 27.--Last night had one of the hardest thundershowers since starting, and the way the tents flew was some; a half dozen are lying around camp, deserted by their occupants. Kindling a fire with willows soaked in rain is an operation that tests the patience and perseverance of any man. The cattle were also very much scattered, so that, after hunting all day, many are still missing, and, after moving on 4 miles, we camped, to lay by another day and hunt them, as their trail was found, and had been followed some 15 or 2 miles up into the high prairie beyond the bluffs. Some 50 or 60 head were driven in from 6 to 12 miles distance. An accident occurred whilst moving our camp in the afternoon which nearly proved fatal. A child fell from one of the wagons, and it ran over his breast and one arm, but, the ground being soft underneath the wheels, he was not killed, although taken up senseless, and is this evening in a fair way to recover.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, April 18, 1879, page 3


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Wed. 28.--Today we lay in camp, as the pilot, with 8 men, went back early this morning to hunt the strays, a part of which returned of their own accord about noon; indeed, all the missing working cattle have returned, but the men are not in this evening.
    Thur. 29.--This morning our camp was visited by 4 Pawnees, with their ponies laden with buffalo meat, which they must have killed with their bows and arrows, as they had no guns with them. Went 15 miles, camping on Plum Creek. The Platte is the most singular river in our country, and differs from all I ever saw. Its banks are low, with a broad alluvial bottom, yet it never overflows it. The stream varies one to two and three miles in width, with a rapid current, yet a man can ford it most anywhere, and we have followed it 35 miles now, and this is the first branch to cross, and, even though the land along the bottom is quite moist with showers nearly every night, this little branch looks more like a pool of water than a running stream.
    Frid. 30.--Again we lay in camp, awaiting the return of Clark and his company, who returned in the afternoon, all but three, bringing near 30 head of cattle with them from near Blue River. The three returned during the night, and our brave ex-captain, T'Vault, was so courageous as to jump out of his tent, on hearing the noise of their approach, and fire at them, raising a pretty row for a while.
    Sat. 31.--Went about 20 miles, camping near a place just deserted by a hunting party of Indians, whose camp, from the abundance of greasy bones, and scraps of buffalo meat and skins, gave evidence of a successful hunt here lately, although we have not yet seen the first buffalo. The creek we left this morning was not Plum Creek, as we passed it about noon.
    Sun. June 1.--We camped last evening in two companies, with every evidence of a general split, which accordingly took place this morning, McNary telling us he is no longer captain. It has been very evident throughout our journey that we could get along much easier in smaller companies. This day was taken up with dividing out the cattle, and towards evening near one-third of the company left, under McNary, and went on some five or six miles, followed by some 12 or 15 wagons under J. Waymire, the late lieutenant. The company which last evening broke off remained still upon the ground, and to this company I was attached. I will here say that it was from no ill feeling toward the captain or any of the company we broke off in the manner we did, but merely to get along easier than we could in the large crowd we were in, as for the last week we had been compelled to either make short drives or lay by every other day on account of the straying of our cattle.
    Mon. 2.--Went 22 miles this day. Saw plenty signs of buffalo, but we discovered none until evening, when two men went out and fired at one of two that had come down into the bottom, but did not get him.
    Tues. 3.--Went about 18 miles, the road broken with dry watercourses and the land dryer than any yet traveled in this bottom. About noon, five companies of U.S. dragoons, under Col. Kearny, 250 strong, overtook us, and camped soon after. They were hardy-looking fellows, and as they passed along in two double files, leading their horses, they looked nearly as dark as natives, and some of them, with their mustachios, a good deal savager. Two buffalo were killed by our party today, and opposite this evening's camp scores may be seen across the river.
    Wed. 4.--D. Lafield, the only Yankee in the crowd, and he from old Connecticut too, had to take to the bush yesterday on the dragoons' approach, he having been one, and quit Fort Leavenworth without saying By your leave, Mr. Officer. Every man in camp was his friend, and he had been a good fellow, for, if a man had a cow or anything strayed, Davy was always ready to follow the trail, and he went back two or three times, nearly always with success, though afoot and alone, and several times he laid out in the prairie at night. He was accounted the best cattle-driver in camp, though a footman, and was as good as half a dozen such horsemen as some were. He came into camp this morning, having lain in the prairie all night without gun, blanket, or provisions, and came near running into the dragoons' camp in the night, but, hearing the relief guard called, he scattered off in another direction. We went about 16 miles this day, camping on a clear-water slough, with only buffalo chips for fuel, which would also have been the case last night had we not taken wood in the wagons the day previous. This was the shortest day I have seen on the road, as there was something to vary the monotony of our journey. Just as we were fairly on our road, the dragoons passed us and overtook a large herd of buffalo feeding in the bottom. They had five horses with them kept during their whole march for running buffalo, and when these were put after them, the buffalo took to the sand hills, among which they were running them all day, we enjoying the sport. I had supposed, from the slowness of their motions, they would make a poor race, but in this I was mistaken, and it is no common nag that outruns them. One of our company gave one of them a shot, which passed through the body and lungs above the heart, and he then outran a dragoon for half a mile, after which he laid down and died.
    Thur. 5.--Today we went 17 miles, camping on the river near a company which passed us some 10 or 12 days ago.
    Frid. 6.--Went 16 miles, camping for the last time on the south side of the Platte River; however, it was only the south fork of it. We camped at the ford, and saw the company spoken of yesterday pass over. Their teams were many of them light, and they had considerable difficulty in crossing, as when a wagon once stopped it sank deep in the quicksand at the bottom of the river.
    Sat. 7.--Forded south fork of Platte River this morning, it being a half mile or more wide and a little over knee deep in places. We doubled the teams, taking half the wagons at a time, and were an hour and three quarters getting everything over; then went 15 miles up the north side, and camped.
    Sun. 8.--Continued up about 8 miles, and then struck across to the north fork, traveling about 20 miles. Had a pretty hard pull up the bluff, and then found a gently rolling prairie across 6 or 8 miles, and the remainder of the way led down a wild rocky glen called Ash Hollow. Both the companies that originally belonged with ours missed finding this hollow, and camped on the prairie all night without water, although McNary's started up the divide in the afternoon, so they would have been compelled to camp without water any way. They followed the dragoons' trail, who missed it only a mile or two, but Waymire, T'Vault, & Co. traveled 6 or 7 miles up and down before getting into the head of the hollow, and they were the company who had Clark the pilot with them, too. On getting to the head of this hollow, we came to a succession of barren, rocky knobs and hills that appeared to have no way of getting through or over, which appear to extend as far as we could see northward. The road leads along a channel apparently torn out by the torrents of water which annually descend at the time of the melting of the snow on the plains, and it was one of the wildest-looking places I ever passed through, the desolate-looking hillsides, with a few stunted cedars growing upon them, rocky ledges overhanging our wagons, with a few ash trees and wild currant bushes growing in the depth of the hollow, along the sandy bottom of which we wound our way, made one almost imagine he was traveling some mountain pass. Found ourselves, on camping, within a few rods of T'Vault & Co., who were laying up to recruit, in a very pretty camping place, near a fine spring, with plenty of wood around them, which was also the case with our camp, and the clear, bright blaze of a cedar fire was to us a luxury worth enjoying after using buffalo fuel near a week.
    Mon. 9.--As our cattle were mixed with the other company's, we made an early start, in order to separate them, which took us to noon, when we moved up the river 6 miles, and camped. The bluffs present the same wild appearance that the sides of Ash Hollow do. They approach quite near the river in many places, with dry watercourses running from them down into the river, and as the road is, most of the way, sandy, it makes pretty hard traveling.
    Tues. 10.--Lay in camp today, recruiting, as the cattle had become jaded and many of them lame. It is a singular fact that the working cattle's feet stand better than the loose stuck, for, whilst numbers of the latter have become lame, and so much so as to compel us to leave them, but few of the working cattle have exhibited any signs of lameness. An accident occurred yesterday which I omitted mentioning. Another child, a girl of 13, passed under the wagon wheel, and was seriously injured, but is in a fair way to recover. It was the wagon I was driving myself, and I had expected it during the whole journey, from their habitual carelessness in getting in and out whilst the wagons were in motion. T'Vault and Co. passed by about noon.
    Wed. 11.--A party of us out hunting yesterday, on going up one of the hollows that lead up into the bluffs, saw a road which leads up into the high prairie beyond the bluff, and apparently had been traveled by some company this spring. It is a much better way to get down into the river bottom than the route we came, the descent being so gradual as not to require the locking of a wheel. We went about 15 miles today, and camped near the river, finding driftwood sufficient for our fires, which is better fuel than buffalo chips, although the latter was a better substitute for wood than any of us anticipated, and is far preferable to green wood. One solitary cottonwood was the only tree or bush I saw growing on the river bottom this whole distance, and but few cedars are seen upon the bluffs. The bluffs present the appearance of naked mountainsides, and appear to rise in a variety of shapes, some looking like castles, citadels, and fortresses, and I noticed two peculiar peaks of naked sandstone rock rising close together like large haystacks. These are called the Two Ovens, from their resemblance to the exterior of a baker's oven.
    Thur. 12.--Went 17 miles today, camping on the largest branch we have yet seen putting into Platte River. It is called Horse Creek. Noticed a long point of cedar or pine timber upon the bluffs to our left today, which is a rare sight to us, as the last timber grove we saw upon high ground was between the Wolf and Missouri rivers. In the afternoon, met 4 Mackinaw boats which had started from Fort Laramie for St. Louis, with furs and peltries, but there was not sufficient water for them, and they had tied up, unloaded their goods, and sent back to Fort Laramie for wagons to go on with.
    Frid. 13.--Went 18 miles, and camped about one mile above some more Mackinaw boats, the company trading some meal and flour for buffalo skins, moccasins, &c., with them, the price of a buffalo skin being two or three gallons of meal. About ten miles from the last camp, crossed another creek as large as the one we camped upon, crossing it not far from a large rock called Solomon's Rock, a singular-looking pile, resembling a large castle at a distance. Another noted peak was in sight nearly all day, called The Chimney.
    Sat. 14.--Went 9 miles, camping directly opposite The Chimney, which is a pillar of soft sandstone and clay, about 80 feet high, standing upon a pyramidal-shaped mound about 200 feet in height, making the Chimney top near 300 feet above the level of the river. The Chimney was said to be 800 feet high when the country was first explored, but, like many other wonders of the world, it diminishes on a better acquaintance. It is very evident, however, that its size and height are constantly being reduced by the action of the wind and rain upon the soft material of which it is composed. Another cause operates in this country to prevent a person's forming any accurate idea of the height and distance of an object by guess. The horizontal refraction is uncommonly great, so much so at times that a man on the verge of the horizon is lengthened out until he appears like the branchless trunk of a tree.
    Sun. 15.--Went about 13 miles, passing what we called Scott's Bluffs, from the circumstance of a man of that name dying there, he being deserted by two men who were sent down with him to take him to the States on account of his sickness, and who was left here to perish; they went on, and reported him dead and buried, but his body was afterward discovered at a different spot from where they reported him buried, and other circumstances made it apparent he had died of starvation and want. In the afternoon we passed a singular spot, appearing as if a water-cloud had bursted upon it, washing the soil and sand off several acres, and leaving the hard clay intersected with channels so deep that a person's head when on horseback was below the level of the surface. Just as we camped, three gentlemen from Fort Laramie, returning to the States, came to camp, and spent the night with us. They told us they would take on all letters written, and next morning received a good-sized packet of them.
    Mon. 16.--Went 15 miles, leaving the river, and passing in behind the high bluffs next it. These bluffs, both yesterday and to day, have presented a singular appearance, looking at times like works of art, and leading one's imagination to the ancient cities of the East, with their towers, temples, palaces, &c. Some of the head companies have fired the prairie in many places as they passed along, destroying so much pasture it will be difficult for the companies behind us to get good camps, and they comprise at least two-thirds of the emigration.
    Tues. 17.--Thanks to him who set the prairie on fire, we had to go back this morning to our last encampment for some of our working cattle, which occupied so much of the day we were obliged to lie still the remainder. During the day a Sioux Indian visited our camp, he being the first of that nation we have yet seen.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, April 25, 1879, page 3


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Wed. 18.--This morning we went 12 miles, which took us to the real Horse Creek, and 10 more to the north fork, where we found an excellent camp for grass, wood, and water. The information that Clark, who acted as pilot when the companies were all together, gave us, led me to suppose our second encampment after leaving Ash Hollow was made upon Horse Creek, but in this I was mistaken, as the traders tell us this is the real Horse Creek.
    Thur. 19.--We camped last evening in company with Mr. Martin's company of 13 wagons, they having camped so near us at the last camping place that our cattle were mixed, and we yesterday traveled in one company, camping however in two separate circles. They were originally a part of Mr. Tetherow's company, the one spoken of before reaching the Wolf River Indian Agency, and we have been near neighbors ever since our separation from McNary. They this morning got the start of us with their wagons, and we parted company, dividing the cattle detaining us some time. Went 14 miles, camping on the fork, finding plenty of excellent firewood. The bottom along the fork appears to have been lately quite well timbered, but it is now nearly all destroyed by fire, the dead and dry wood strewing the bottom. About two miles from camp passed the ruins of an old trading fort, apparently it being four stone fireplaces enclosed with the stumps of a stockade, the stockade having been burned off.
    Frid. 20.--Reached Ft. Laramie about noon, traveling eight miles, the road sandy, traveling heavy. It is situated on Laramie's fork of Platte, in a rough, barren region of country, near the base of the Rocky Mountains, the dark outlines of which are now in view, and is one of the forts of the American Fur Company. Fort Platte is about one mile from it, further down the fork, and belongs to some French traders. The Sioux have been collected here in considerable numbers this season, but many of them are now gone, the traders tell us. Those that are here are very friendly with us, wishing to make all sorts of trades, even to swapping horses for girls. I think them as intelligent, cleanly-looking Indians as ever I saw anywhere. Noticed a number of half-breeds among the young Indians, and am told it is the regular custom of the traders to keep Indian wives at the fort. They say it is necessary for their personal safety, as they are then considered one of the tribe, and should one get killed his friends will avenge his death. The Sioux have numbers of very fine horses, the best I ever saw among Indians, and they prize a good one highly, they are so useful for killing buffalo. They are very anxious to trade their ponies for good American horses. The only guns among them, or that they will have, are short, large-bored shotguns, and they don't want a rifle at any rate. Many of the company spent the afternoon in writing to their friends, and one little incident amused me much. I was lying beside my wagon, in which a woman was writing to her friends in Illinois, when a young Missourian, a girl about 8 years of age, steps upon the wagon tongue, and says, "Mrs. C., are you writing a letter?" "Yes." "Put something in to Uncle Jack and Aunt Lucy for me, won't you?"
    Sat. 21.--Went about 20 miles over a rough, broken country, with a range of mountains having several high peaks in view on our left. Had a moonlight march to get a camp, it being near 11 o'clock when we left the fort, which brought us into camp about 10 at night, when we reached a small creek.
    Sun. 22.--Went 12 miles through a country presenting the same wild and barren aspect as yesterday, which brought us to the north fork again, on which we camped. Since reaching Fort Laramie, the aspect of the country has changed entirely. We no more find the smooth level prairie, on which the wagon rolls for miles without any pulling, as one might say. The whole country is covered at intervals with pine and cedar timber, so that buffalo chips find a poor market, and the intervals along the streams are narrower, and afford much less pasture, being dry and unproductive.
    Mon. 22.--Having an excellent camp for wood, water, and grass, and plenty of dirty duds in the wagons to keep the women out of mischief for one day, we concluded to lie by.
    Tues. 24.--Went about 14 miles, the road better than any in the neighborhood of Fort Laramie, being less sandy and uneven. About 7 miles from our last encampment, passed the camp of a small detachment of U.S. dragoons, having a baggage wagon with them, as they are conveying a disabled soldier back to the fort. His name is Smith, and the accident occurred some 40 miles ahead. In drawing his gun from a thicket of brush it went off, shattering his arm in two places so that it was necessary to amputate it above the elbow, which operation has been performed, and he appears to be doing well.
    Wed. 25.--Went about 8 miles, camping on a small stream, about 4 miles from the river. Saw near camp a flock of partridges, the first I have seen since leaving home. Country again broken and rugged, road hilly.
    Thur. 26.--Went 16 miles, camping on a stream somewhat larger than the last, with the surrounding hills full of red clay, giving them the color of brick. I am disappointed in the part of the country we are now traveling, as we were told of several stretches of 20 and 30 miles along here without water, but we have found none such yet, as in every deep ravine we are nearly sure of finding water and more or less grass. This evening we have an excellent camp for both, and as for wood, it is plenty everywhere in the deep hollows.
    Frid. 27.--Yesterday morning a horse was missing from our company, and three others from Capt. English's, who encamped near us that night. Two men were left behind to hunt ours, and they report that it is their belief she was taken off by Indians, as they found moccasin tracks near the place they lost the trail. We camped last evening near Martin's company, which detained us again this morning dividing our cattle. We however traveled about 14 miles, all three companies camping on a small creek, near each other again. In the afternoon met a company of trappers, with mules and ponies packed with furs, going from Fort Bridger, near the Southwest Pass, to the States, and the wildest-looking crew they were of any we have met with yet, some of them having their squaws and children with them. We saw buffalo today, killing one. We have seen none before, since we were about 60 miles below Fort Laramie.
    Sat. 28.--The country, for the past few days, is not so full of timber as it was near Fort Laramie. It is broken with high hills, some of them rising into little mountains, the naked sides of which are the perfect image of desolation itself. The watercourses are sandy, and present the phenomenon of sinking and rising again from the sand, which makes the country appear scarcer of water than it really is, as in crossing one you may see nothing but a hot, dry bed of loose sand, whilst by following it up or down you may find a fine running stream of water, pure as crystal, rising, running a short distance, then sinking into it again. The water is of an excellent quality, as by this constant filtration through the sand it is cleansed of all impurities, if any originally exist. We lay in camp today, in order to get clear of the other companies, as our cattle were mixing every night, causing considerable work separating them every morning. Three fine deer were killed, also two beaver. The latter animals appear very thick along the creek, it being dammed by them at every short interval, and the banks strewn with trees cut ready for transportation to their dams. These trees were young cottonwoods, from two to six inches in diameter and eight to twelve feet long, being cut at both ends as well as an Indian would do it with his hatchet, leaving only the tooth-print to detect the laborer by. The two that were killed were shaped like a coon, excepting the hind foot and tail, the foot being webbed like a duck's, and the tail, which was covered with a hard skin looking like fine scales, was precisely the shape of a trowel. The color was brown, and in size it was double that of the coon. The tail is considered a great delicacy by the trapper and hunter. I had an opportunity today of testing the comparative quality of deer and buffalo meat. Both were of excellent quality, but the deer has a decided preference, being of a finer grain and more juicy and tender.
    Sun. 29.--On driving up our stock this morning three oxen were missing, and, although the owners could go along without them, they declared they would not move for ten days unless they were found; so, after yoking up and standing in line more than half the day, we turned out and camped upon the same spot again. It had been the practice of the company, when a few cattle were missing, to send back a party to hunt them, and let the others move on, but, when men get mulish, they sometimes make asses of themselves, and here we are tonight, with Tetherow's company of 30 wagons and 300 head of cattle jammed in upon us, thus losing two days' travel to get clear of Martin's company, and then getting mixed with one twice its size, whilst Stewart's company passed at noon with 22 wagons.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, May 9, 1879, page 5


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Mon. 30.--Saw trees along the creek this morning from 20 inches to two foot in diameter, which had been cut down by beavers. Divided our cattle and got under way about 9 o'clock. Traveled 18 miles, camping on a creek close to the river again. About eight miles from our last camp, at the crossing of a creek, found a paper nailed to a piece of board informing us that the three missing oxen are ahead in English's company. We struck the river bottom about five miles from here; a smooth, level road was quite a luxury after four or five days' travel among the Black Hills.
    Tues., July 1.--Traveled about 17 miles, most of the way up the river bottom, camping again on the river. Much of the distance is lost in heading ravines, and we cannot be more than ten miles higher up the river than last evening. This has been the case all the way this side of Fort Laramie, and a map of our road would show many serpentine windings.
    Wed. 2.--Went 12 miles further up the North Fork, crossed it and camped, feeling as though one good job was done, now that all the main forks of the Platte were left behind. This fork at the crossing is about 80 yards wide, current rapid as a mill-race, and so deep as to render it necessary to block up some of the lowest wagon beds. The bottom is hard and pebbly, and in crossing it is necessary to turn first downstream, then up.
    Thurs. 3--One accident occurred yesterday, which I omitted mentioning. In crossing a ravine, a wagon was overturned, it being the first of the kind that has yet occurred. But one person was in the wagon, and he received no injury. We were moving again in 20 minutes. Traveled about 23 miles today, giving the Platte the goodbye, and camping upon a small stream running from springs among the sand hills. On leaving the Platte we struck the dreariest country we have yet traveled, it being barren, sandy hills and plains, with not a tree or shrub in view except the eternal wild sage which abounds everywhere this side of Laramie. It is a species of wormwood resembling garden wormwood more than it does sage. In places from three to eight miles apart we come to little valleys of clay ground from two to five or six rods wide, having a little water and some short, fine grass in them, and there are the camping places. For fuel, buffalo chips again come into play, and where the wormwood is large enough, we use it, lighting the camp nicely at night. There is also a small bush resembling cedar, the leaves of which have an acid taste. The water in the deepest of these valleys is very brackish, the clay where becomes in contact with it turning black, and it tastes strongly of salt, sulfur, etc., and I think of iron rust. The higher springs are very good.
    Fri. 4.--We went about 14 miles; country of the same character as yesterday. A company of five mountain traders camped with as last night, and we intend traveling together to Fort Bridger, they acting as pilots for us.
    Sat. 5.---Went about 17 miles, the road sandy and heavy as ever, with occasionally a dry pond-hole in the valleys covered with a crust of salt mixed with lime, white and glittering in the sun like snow. Passed near noon a salt lake on our right, about half a mile wide, the borders of which were crusted with the same composition. About ten miles from our former camp struck and crossed Sweetwater River at a large rock on its northern side, called Independence Rock, from the circumstance of Capt.
Sublette with a party of men celebrating the 4th of July there. There are hundreds of names cut and painted on the rock by persons passing it. We here entered the narrow valley of the Sweetwater, which leads on toward the pass between two low ranges of mountains, and soon after we the U.S. Dragoons returning from the pass, they having camped one night in Oregon. Near our camp is one of the wildest-looking places yet seen, called the Devil's Gate. The Sweetwater River winding through a narrow, alluvial bottom, passes through a ridge of perpendicular rock 120 feet high, the chasm being about three rods wide, and the water roaring as it struggles among the loose rock at the bottom like a cataract.
    Sun. 6.--Went 17 miles today, the road better in places. The latter part was a long, heavy pull, though. Passed a fine piece of red-top grass with crowfoot and dandelion among it, giving it the appearance of an Eastern meadow. This is the first of the plants I have seen this side of the  States, or of the grass either. Saw a salt lake about 30 rods in diameter, full of soft, white slime, like the settlings of a brine cask, the borders being miry, with a hard crust on top.
    Mon. 7--Went about ten miles; character of the country the same, with a slight improvement in the road. We camped near where the road enters the northern range of mountains, which have heretofore bounded the valley on its northern side. Those mountains are of solid rock, nearly destitute of earth or trees. The southern range has considerable timber upon it in places being composed of earth, and much higher than the northern ones.
    Tues. 8.--The road this morning led through the northern range of mountains--that is, it struck across an angle which it makes across the river, after which both ranges recede from the river, leaving a broader valley than anywhere heretofore. We traveled about 20 miles, crossing and recrossing the river twice, and camping as we have always done upon the south side of it.
    Wed. 9.--Went about four miles and camped, our oxen being a good deal cut down with the past ten days' travel, much of the road being very sandy. The Wind River Mountains were in sight nearly all of yesterday and today, lifting their snowy summits along the western horizon. The nights here are chilly.
    Thurs. 10.--Went five miles and camped in the same bottom we were in last evening.
    Fri. 11.--The mountains spoken of on first entering the Sweetwater Valley have disappeared in a range of sand hills rising on each side of the stream, leaving a narrow bottom along it, and gradually swelling higher and higher as they recede. They close in to the water's edge just above yesterday's encampment, and on leaving it this morning we were obliged to ascend the hills, traveling over a succession of high, gravelly and rocky ridges for 20 miles, when we came down on the river and camped upon it for the last time. Finding here a small company of men returning from Oregon and California, we embraced the opportunity of writing home again, as it was probably the last chance we would have on the road.
    Sat. 12.--Before leaving Sweetwater I will here give the origin of its name, as it was given by the leader of the party spoken of on the 4th inst., and who left us a few days after. He was an old Canadian Frenchman, and had been in the mountains 18 years. He said one of the first trading parties to this part of the country, in crossing the stream at a time when it was swollen by a freshet, got 17 pounds of sugar drowned in it, and so christened it Sweetwater. We this morning crossed it for the last time, giving the waters of the Platte and Missouri the goodbye and, traveling over the sand hills again for 12 miles, camped near a spring, the waters of which flow down Green River to the Pacific, via Gulf of California. The Wind River Mountains are in full view on our right, apparently not far distant, and as we near them the snow appears wasting away from their summits.
    Sun. 13.--Found ice frozen in the buckets this morning, and the air frosty and unpleasant. Traveled 20 miles, the road sandy and very dusty, and camped on Little Sandy Creek, a branch of Green River. The wind for the past three days has been strong from the west, driving a heavy cloud of dust constantly in our faces, nearly blinding us.
    Mon. 14.--We camped the two past evenings near Capt. Tetherow's company, and he has employed a pilot to conduct his company by a nearer route to Fort Hall, leaving Fort Bridger and the regular trail on our left, and striking it again at Bear River. This morning, after crossing Little Sandy they struck off on their new route, and when we arrived at the turning-off point a vote was taken and it was decided to follow them. Went about six miles, crossing Big Sandy, which is also a branch of Green River, and camped upon it.
    Tues. 15.--As Tetherow's company did not wish us to crowd them too closely, we remained in camp today to let them get clear of us.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, June 6, 1879, page 6


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Wed. 16.--We were on the road 24 hours, traveling about 42 miles before we could get a camp. Got to Green River about 6:30 in the morning, our teams well jaded. This stretch was not unexpected, as the old pilot told us of it before leaving the regular road.
    Thurs. 17.--It being after sunrise this morning before we got into camp, we stuck to it the remainder of the day. Capt. St. Clair, with some 15 or 20  wagons that originally were a portion of Tetherow's company, came down the river and camped near us soon after we arrived. Tetherow's company had not left the river when we made our camp.
    Fri. 13.--A child died in St. Clair's company last evening, and as they were close to us it was saddening indeed to hear the mournful lamentations of its friends in that lonely and desolate part of creation where the calm stillness of the midnight hour is seldom disturbed by any sound save the low murmur of the river, as it rushes rapidly past, and the howlings of the roving wolves, now rising like the yells of a band of savages, then dying away into the low, plaintive whining of a famished cur. We only traveled about three miles today, fording the river about half way between the three camps. It was a very good ford for crossing wagons, although rather difficult to get to, as we were obliged to descend a steep hill with the wheels locked; when in we turned and went downstream, quartering across a couple of islands, and I believe the water did not wet a single wagon bed. Green River is a rapid and deep stream, with very few good fording places, and we were told by the Oregon company we met on Sweetwater that we would be obliged to raft it if we went the regular road. In the afternoon the child spoken of this morning was buried about a mile above our camp, and I saw the little procession moving out from their camp on foot, two men with the coffin leading the way. I thought that heavy indeed must be the heart of the parent who is compelled to deposit it in such a place as this barren region is. It is indeed worse if possible than ever, for excepting narrow belts of grass along the river or around a springy marsh, nothing grows that can sustain a solitary beast, and the eternal wormwood or wild sage or whatever it is, is short and dried up, and where the land is clayey it is hard and full of cracks, and as the wagons pass over it they raise a blinding cloud of dust. The sandy part of the road is also very dusty. The country is very high and broken, although we have some level stretches. There has been a scarcity of timber ever since we left Platte River, but it is plenty on Green River.
    Sat. 19.--The bluffs were so steep and high, shutting in close to the river, as to compel us to double our teams to get out of camp this morning, and when on the bluffs had a rough road for about two miles until we struck Tetherow's trail. We followed up, going about 11 miles in all, and camping on a very pretty little branch of Green River, which winds its way through a fine bottom among the mountains, and having first-rate grass along the borders. The day was nearly spent in getting over a high bluff which shut into the river just below Tetherow's last camp. After spending all the forepart of the day in ascending it, a person at 2 o'clock could almost have thrown a stone to where we were at 10 o'clock. It reminded me of an old couplet that would fit Capt. Riggs with all his teams and men--"Marched up a hill and then marched down again."
    Sun. 20.-- This morning there is ice three-fourths of an inch thick in some of the vessels about camp. We went about 10 miles today, camping on the side of a mountain called the Pine Grove.
    Mon. 21.--Went about 16 miles, the road the same as yesterday, leading across a succession of hills, some of which ought to be called mountains. Our camp was visited by a large party of Snake Indians, they being the first natives we have seen this side of Fort Laramie. They had a number of excellent ponies with them, and were anxious to trade with us, asking a gun with a few charges of powder and lead for a horse. The guns they like best are smooth-bores with single triggers and flint locks; they prefer a shotgun to a rifle.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, June 13, 1879, page 2


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Tues. 22.--We are camped upon a branch of Green River called Ham's Fork. I learn this morning that it is considerable of a stream, although it is very bad camping on account of grass. The Indians are going into camp, and have traded off several horses. We went about 14 miles, it being all the way uphill to the last mile, which led down one of the steepest hills I ever saw wagons pass down. We had to lock the wheels, and finally camped in a deep hollow along with Tetherow again. The country we passed over today is more fertile than any we have seen for weeks, having quite a sod of grass upon it, and being nearly destitute of the wild wormwood which everywhere abounds in the barrenest parts of the country.
    Wed. 23.--Went about 10 miles today, over one more mountain, coming down upon Bear River and camping on it. This river is one of the streams which empty into the Great Salt Lake.
    Thurs. 24.--This morning is showery, and it is the first rain we have had for many weeks. Went about 15 miles today, keeping down the river bottom and crossing the river once. One mile from last camp crossed Smith's fork. I omitted mentioning yesterday that where we struck Bear
River we came into the old road again.
    Fri. 25.--Went about 16 miles today, crossing the river again and climbing over a mountain which shuts in to the river's edge.
    Sat. 26.--Owing to an injudicious selection of our camp last night we did not get away from it until 11 o'clock, so that we only went seven miles today. There was an almost impenetrable thicket of brush near our camp, from which it seemed impossible to get the cattle.
    Sun. 27.--Went about 22 miles today, camping near the soda springs. These springs are in the river valley on its northern side, and are one of the greatest curiosities on the road. Some of them are warm, others cold, and all boiling, and most of them impregnated more or less with copperas. Where some of them boil up they have formed a lime rock, which on walking over sounds as if it were hollow. There are several elevations on the rock two and three feet high shaped like a sugar loaf, and their whole insides are filled with warm water constantly boiling and bubbling. Some of the water in these springs is supposed to be poisonous, from the fact of cattle dying when people have camped near them. They extend along for two miles between the mountain and the river on its northern side, and the poisonous ones are supposed to be located near a small cedar grove. The water has not a lively soda taste, but is rather like soda water left open to the air until it dies, leaving only a sour, acid taste, and on the whole it is rather mean water.
    Mon. 28.--Went about ten miles today, leaving Bear River on our left and camping near a spring slightly impregnated with soda. About a mile from camp we passed a spring, the water of which tasted more like soda water than any I have tasted of. The trail from the States to California parts from the Oregon road at Bear River, down which it follows, while the Oregon road strikes over on to Snake River near Fort Hall. A word for the Bear River Valley before leaving it: It comes nearer to being fit for white folks to live in than any section of the country we have traveled through since leaving the branches of Kansas River, and it only lacks a little of being a good farming country. The principal drawbacks are a scarcity of timber, there being only a strip of willow bushes along the river, with once in a long while a small grove of cottonwoods, and a little more rain in summer would be desirable. The soil is excellent, the climate rather cold of nights, and there is once in a while a snowdrift to be seen on the mountains along the river. There is timber on the mountains nearly sufficient for the use of the valley.
    Tues. 29.--One natural production of the country ought to be noticed, as it constitutes an important item of the food of the natives, game being rather scarce here. This is the crickets, which in some parts of the valley are larger and more plentiful than I ever saw them anywhere else, being from an inch and a half to two inches in length, with corporations like aldermen, and the Indians make fine, rich pots of soup of them, as some of our company saw at a camp near the soda springs. We traveled about 14 miles today, camping on a small creek which is probably a branch of Bear River. I omitted mentioning yesterday that we had left the regular road again not far from the soda springs to take another near cut under the pilotage of a Frenchman.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, June 20, 1879, page 6


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Tues. 29 (continued).--Our company found and employed him at the springs, but we had not proceeded far before we found the Greenwoods were conducting Tetherow's company by the same route, and as they made a plain road for us to follow, our pilot returned. We have not yet got into the old road, but we have thus far had an easy, level way, and from the relative bearings of the two roads we must cut off at least nine or ten miles. We had an excellent camp, with plenty of grass and water. These Greenwoods are an old man and three sons whom he has raised in the Indian country. They are well posted on the route.
    Wed. 30.--Went about 16 miles today, crossing the dividing mountain between Bear and Snake rivers, and camping upon a small creek which runs into the latter stream, so that we are now upon the waters of Oregon. About four miles from our camp we struck and crossed the old road, crossing the mountain by a route which wagons had never taken before. Tetherow passed over it, although it was the regular pack trail. We struck the old road again about two miles from our present camp. An excellent road could be made across here with but little labor, and in its present condition it is not a hard road, and saves eight miles' travel.
    Thurs. 31.--Eighteen miles today took us to Fort Hall, which stands upon the broad, level bottom of Snake River, with fine pasturage and some timber around it, and surrounded by a few wigwams of the Eutaw and other tribes of Indians. It is a good-sized fort, built like Fort Laramie of unburnt bricks, and is one of the posts of the Hudson's Bay Co. The superintendent of the fort is a very gentlemanly man, a Scotchman, I believe, and showed a good deal of kindness to the immigrants, but like most others in the Indian country, well disposed to make a good bargain off them when it can be done. They told us the first companies who arrived a few days before took them by surprise, being a month earlier than companies had ever reached the fort before.
    Fri., Aug. 1.--Went only eight miles today, as many of us had some trading to do at the fort before starting. A wagon was repaired which had a tire bursted on a forewheel 100 miles from the fort, and we took raw buffalo hide cut in strips and wound about half the circumference of the wheel with it, and although we had a stony road some of the way, it lasted to the fort, holding the wheel firm and solid. One thing about Fort Hall is noticeable; their cattle look as fine as I ever saw grass-fed cattle in old Connecticut. Old, broken-down oxen purchased of last year's emigration were just rolling with fat. This is owing to the excellent grass about the fort, the land affording as fine natural pasturage as I ever saw, but is rather poorly adapted for cultivation, being too moist.
    Sat. 2.--As one of our company had lost three of his working oxen in the neighborhood of the fort, we lay by today to help him hunt them, and they were brought in before night. Companies should never camp close to a fort when it can be avoided, as their cattle and horses are liable to be run off by the Indians who are always found in greater or less numbers in such localities. They are constantly riding about the camps of the whites, always on a full run, and scatter the stock terribly.
    Sun. 3.--Took a fair start today for the Columbia Valley, glad to leave Fort Hall and all its appendages behind. Traveled about 10 miles, upset a wagon, and camped in the barrens without water or grass. Wood we never miss now, as we can make a fire and cook with wormwood, which grows everywhere upon the barrens. About 12 miles from our last camp we passed the American Falls, where the river passes over a bed of rocks, having a sloping descent of about 30 feet. Here the level river bottom terminates, and here we should have camped. But Capt. Tetherow was close ahead of us, and some of our men had determined on passing him this night, so we kept on after he had camped upon a narrow strip of grass. In crossing a ravine the upsetting of one of Capt. Riggs' wagons brought us all to a standstill. I omitted to mention that a short distance from the last camp we crossed the Portneuf River, which was the worst crossing we have had yet, owing to the steep and miry condition of the banks, and the water being the deepest we have yet forded, requiring thick blocks to be put under the beds of most of the wagons.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, June 27, 1879, page 6


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Mon. 4.--Went about 16 miles today, camping upon the Cajeux River, where we found excellent grass. We turned out our cattle about midway between camps, near the crossing of a creek called the Creek of Rocks, as they had no water or grass last night, and many of our company went on there before they took breakfast. This creek runs through a deep ravine, as indeed nearly all the small streams do, and is rather a difficult crossing. Liggett's company upset a wagon in it. The road along here would be tolerably fair were it not for the numerous ravines, some of them being very deep.
    Tues. 5.--Went about 16 miles today, crossing fewer ravines than either of the two previous days, the road being very stony, however, which jostled the wagons terribly. Ever since passing the American Falls the rocks have presented a dark, rusty appearance, as though they contained iron ore.
    Wed. 6.--Went about 14 miles over a tolerably fair road, camping on Goose Creek. We nooned alongside a very pretty little lake which is formed by the outlet of a spring. Just at evening a child fell from one of the wagons and was run over, but happening to fall in a miry hole in the road, it sustained little or no injury. This is the third run-over in our company.
    Thurs. 7.--Traveled about 18 miles today, camping upon the dry fork of Snake River, the water of which stands along in  pond holes. That pretty little lake mentioned yesterday I think must have been Snake River, which again came up this noon. The reason of my mistaking it for a lake was that we happened to strike it where its banks were low, its channel broad and deep, giving it a very moderate current, which caused it to present the appearance of a still lake. Since passing the American Falls the river has run most of the way between perpendicular bluffs of rocks, so that we often approach within a short distance of it without seeing it.
    Fri. 8.--Went about eight miles today, camping at the Rocky Fork of Snake, which proves to be only a small stream.
    Sat.. 9.--This morning our camp was visited by a large band of Indians, who brought with them a mare belonging to a person in one of the forward companies and gave her up, receiving a few presents as a reward for their honesty. Contrast this with the conduct of the owner of the mare, who is reported to have robbed a Sioux grave a little this side of Laramie of several buffalo robes and other articles which it is their custom to deposit with their dead. But thanks be to goodness, the emigrant companies are not all composed of such shadows of men, for before our big company split, he was considered the meanest one in it or on the road. Went about 16 miles today, camping again upon the Rocky Fork, or not precisely upon it, for the bluffs are so steep as to oblige us to camp in the wormwood and drive our cattle down loose over the rocks. About 4 miles from our present encampment, crossed the Rocky Forks, and the bluffs there were so steep and rocky that they were very difficult both of descent and ascent. In fact it has wound through a deep narrow glen with its sides a wall of perpendicular rocks, nearly all the way from our last encampment.
    Sun. 10.--Went about 20 miles, camping late in the evening upon a small branch just at its entrance into Snake River. Had a very naked camp of it, there only being a patch of tall rushes with cane grass for our cattle to feed upon.
    Mon. 11.--A part of our company consisting of 10 wagons camped last evening where we first struck Snake River, and this morning they took out their cattle so that our company is again divided--this time we divided even, as we had 20 wagons, five having left ours and joined Stewart's company on Sweetwater. A number of Indians are encamped on the opposite side of the river. Went about 6 miles today, camping again upon Snake River near where a large creek puts into it, near which we found an excellent piece of grass. A number of natives passed our encampment in the evening, one of them having a couple of salmon with him which he sold us. These are the first salmon we have seen, but the Indians being so plenty along the river the last day or two, I think we must be getting in the neighborhood of salmon. There is little or no game at all on road this side. Fort Hall and the Indians are obliged to live on fish. There are no less than four companies piled up here, ours, Parker's, Liggett's, and English's. Parker's is the one that broke from Stewart on Sweetwater about the time five wagons joined him from our crowd.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, July 4, 1879, page 6


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Monday, Aug. 11, 1845 (continued).--Just below our present encampment on the opposite side of the river are a number of as fine springs as ever were seen. They are near the top of the river bluff, which is between 80 and 100 feet high, and as the water bubbles down the nearly perpendicular rock it forms a line of beautiful cascades along the dark wall of rocks which here line the opposite shore of the river. If the hills around us were carpeted with grass instead of being covered with wormwood, this would be one of the prettiest spots on the globe for the study of a painter.
    Tues. 12.--On passing those springs this morning I take back the last sentence written yesterday and any, leave all as it is, the brown appearance of the barren hillsides contrasting with the bright green fringe of willows and grass which here border the smooth surface of the river, spreading occasionally up the side around the springs, only to render the same more striking, and should I see it transferred to canvas 50 years hence, I would be sure to recognize it, no matter where I found it. About five miles from our late encampment we passed the Salmon Falls, the river there falling over a wall of rock in a succession of tumbles, making a descent of about 25 feet. Here were a number of Indian camps with lots of salmon for sale. These fish cannot ascend the falls, and the Indians have a great fishery there. We could plainly see numbers of their traps in the river as we passed along. We traveled about 18 miles and then tied up in the wormwood, as there was no grass anywhere near us, and the river banks were so steep and high it was utterly impossible to descend them with wagons. My patience was this day tried to its utmost by the conduct of English's company, which hurried its wagons into the road this morning, taking the lead of all the companies. They have been racing and crowding other companies all the way since the start, and now their teams are cut up so that they can hardly travel, and we were obliged to wait for them to work their passages up the hills, occasionally an ox or old cow lying down to rest upon it.
    Wed. 13.--Went about 11 miles this morning, which took us to the crossing of Snake River, and crossing to the first island, turned out our cattle. We found the McNarys, the Waymires, and a number of our old company, in all 18 wagons, on the opposite side of the river wishing to join us, they offering to pilot and assist us over. We crossed in the afternoon, they rendering us valuable assistance, as they were well acquainted with the ford, which is not easily followed, as it runs across to two islands and then crooks upstream. The water only ran into the wagons a few inches, and as everything that could wet was raised to the top of the wagon beds, it did no damage. They told us it ran over the sides of some of the foremost wagons, and upset one. The Walla Walla Indians are reported to have assembled some 75 or 100 miles below here for the purpose of stopping the emigrants passing through their territory, and it is said they have killed two of the Frenchmen who were with us as pilots on Sweetwater. This is the reason of their wishing to join us.
    Thurs. 14.--Traveled about ten miles, camping upon a small branch. We had a squally time ascending the bluffs, which are several hundred feet high. We passed from a hill to the side of a bluff, upon a high, narrow ridge of just sufficient width upon the top for the wagon road, the sides descending very steep each way. Just as the wagons were upon this a gale of wind in advance of a thunder shower struck us, and blew with such violence directly across the track that it seemed as if wagons, teams and all would be blown away.
    Fri. 15.--We remained in camp today, our oxen being somewhat worn down from the scantiness of the grass along the road, which has also been somewhat heavy.
    Sat. 16.--This morning we moved off in one company, 40 wagons strong, McNary's, Parker's and Riggs' companies joining together as one, but unless I am much mistaken they will not be apt to continue as one very long, for once people find out how much easier it is traveling in small companies, it is not easy work to keep them in a large one. We went about 17 miles, camping on the outlet of a spring near the foot of a range of mountains on our right. About five miles from this camp we passed a hot spring near the foot of the same range, the water of which was nearly at a boiling temperature, so that one could not hold his finger in it, and a dog carelessly stepping across put one foot in and ran off yelping and whining noisily.
    Sun. 17.--Went about eight miles, camping on Barrel Creek. A small company of six or seven men and two women passed us today, having left their wagons at Fort Hall and taken pack horses. The road this day was one of the most stony we have yet passed over, being the same iron-like stone spoken of before crossing Snake River.
    Mond. 18.--Went about 16 miles, camping on Charlotte's fork. The first four miles of road were very stony, keeping the wagons on a continual bounce, the remainder a succession of grassy hills, and although it was ascending or descending there all the time, yet it seemed pleasant to be out of the wormwood once more, even for half a day.
    Tues. 19.--Went about 17 miles, camping upon Boise River, a stream of considerable size, with its banks more heavily timbered than any stream we have found this side of the branches of Kansas River.
    Wed. 20.--Last night another member was added to our company by the birth of a child. Mother and child doing well; we were ready to go on at the usual starting time. Nothing like enterprise to get along here. Went about 14 miles today, keeping down Boise River, and camping upon it again. The waters of this stream are very clear, abounding with fine fish, which the Indians take in large numbers. A party of Snakes and Shoshones visited camp this evening with a number of fine salmon to sell, which were much fatter and better than those taken at Salmon Falls.
    Thurs. 21.--Went about 14 miles today, still keeping down the river and passing a number of Indian camps, the Indians of all sizes, sexes and conditions coming out to the roadside and standing in motley groups to see us pass, some of them holding up fish and crying out "swap!" "swap!" There were squaws with papooses slung to their bucks, young chaps 14 or 15 years old standing in the primitive simplicity of Father Adam, and some full-grown men making a very near approach to it. Some few old men whose hair was nearly white with age holding up their hands and saying "How do?"
    Fri. 22.--Went about 18 miles, crossing Boise River and camping upon it for the last time. It is a stream of fine, clear water, some 40 or 50 yards wide, and abounds with fish, which may be seen playing in its clear waters in many places. This afternoon the road passed close along the brink of the river at a point where there was a place of considerable depth between two riffles, and it was literally alive with fish, many of them very large salmon. This river at the point we first struck it comes out of a range of mountains between walls of perpendicular rock several hundred feet high. After passing the mountains they gradually recede from the river, leaving a narrow bottom between, and at length die away in the steep bluffs which bound the valley on either hand. The bottom is not very fertile, but still there is very fine grass in patches, and it is cut up by sloughs, apparently washed out by the spring freshets. The banks are lined with cottonwoods and willows.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, July 11, 1879, page 6


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Sat., Aug. 23, 1845.--Went four miles this morning, which took us to Fort Boise, which stands on the eastern bank of Snake River, near the mouth of the Boise. It is s small, mean-looking fort, built like the others of sun-dried mud molded into the shape of bricks, and appears more calculated for the collection of furs from other forts than for trading in its own immediate vicinity, as there is no game there, and the Indians living in this part of the country are very poor, many of them nearly naked and living on fish and roots. It was necessary to recross Snake River at this place, which is here fordable, and we all got safely over during the afternoon, camping on the western bank. The Indians assisted us in crossing, showing us the ford and helping us to drive the loose cattle, in return for which a few presents pleased them greatly. The river is near half a mile wide, and so deep as to run over the tops of the wagon sides in places, but as it was generally of uniform depth all the way across, the current was not so rapid as at the other crossing.
    Sun. 24.--The story of the murder of two Frenchmen by the Walla Wallas is pronounced a humbug by the people of the fort. They say that the Walla Wallas entertain a hostile feeling towards us, and will probably try to injure us as we pass through their territory, but their numbers or equipments would not render them dangerous to such sized companies as we are in at present. Still, the nature of the country is such that if they took advantage of it they could damage us considerably. We had traveled thus far as three companies without any general commander, and previous to our starting this morning it was agreed to choose one. Accordingly, James B. Riggs, our own old captain, was elected captain of the whole by a unanimous vote. A man named Meek has engaged to pilot the leading company, Capt. Owensby's, which is the only one now ahead of us. He was to guide the outfit through to the Dalles of the Columbia River by a new and near route, following the pack trail from Fort Boise and missing the Walla Wallas altogether, leaving Fort Walla Walla on his right and cutting off between 100 and 200 miles' travel. A vote was taken whether we should follow them or keep the old way, and a majority decided upon the new one. We traveled about 16 miles, camping upon Malheur Creek, near the forks of the two roads.
    Mond. 25.--[Went] about 11 miles across the [hills, coming] on Malheur River again. Since crossing to this side of Snake River again the road has been fearfully dusty. In fact, a person who has never traveled these wormwood barrens can form no idea as to what depth dust may be cut up in them by a few wagons passing. To a person walking in the road it is frequently more than shoe deep, and if the wind happens to blow lengthwise with the road, it raises such a fog you cannot see the wagon next in front.
    Tues. 26.--Went about ten miles, still keeping up Malheur, crossing and recrossing it twice, and camping upon it. We were obliged to take to the bluffs to get across several narrow bends of the river, and we there found some as hard road as any we have yet traveled. Indeed, I begin to think wagons can go anywhere.
    Wed. 27.--Went about 18 miles today. The road, although leading across the bluffs which in a country where mountains are a rarity would pass for pretty good-sized ones, was tolerably fair, but there is an abundance of small, sharp stones in it, black and hard as iron, and very wearing to the feet of the cattle. We camped upon Carter's fork, from its appearance a branch of Burnt River.
    Thurs. 28.--Went about six miles, camping upon the same branch as before. The sharp stones spoken of yesterday were more plentiful today, and a few more such days' travel as this will entirely use up our cattle's feet.
    Fri. 29.-- Went about 12 miles today, over mountains to which those we had previously crossed were small hills, camping near a little spring in the mountains which affords sufficient water for the use of camp, but our cattle would have been obliged to do without any had it not been for a storm of rain which came on in the evening, the first storm for months. The mountains are covered with small, black, hard, nine-cornered stones, about the size of those used to macadamize a road, and our cattle cringe at every step.
    Sat. 30.--Went about 12 miles today, over mountains as high as any yet met with, but some of them were grassy without rocks, whilst others were covered with the big round stones so nice to jounce a wagon over, spoken of back towards Fort Hall. We camped upon a small branch and found grass and water both plenty and good, which was what our cattle stood in much need of, as for several days we have had hard roads and bad camps, which has cut down stock lower than at any time. Three or four oxen have laid down in the road and given out every day for the past few days.
    Sun. 31.--Went about five miles this morning and camped once more on Malheur River near a peak in the Blue Mountains called Fremont's Peak, the highest point of land in this part of the country, and easily distinguished at a great distance by a large conical rock upon its summit, having one perpendicular side to it. Found an excellent encampment again here.
    Mond., Sept. 1.--Went about five miles, camping again on the Malheur. The road today for short turns, sideling places, hard pulls and jolting stones was rather ahead of anything we have yet had in the same distance, but the camping is first rate.
    Tues. 2.--Traveled about 15 miles today, in a direction but little west of south, camping upon a small branch of the Malheur which puts into the South Fork. About four miles of our road this morning rather exceeded anything we have passed over yet for rock, they being both large and sharp, lying in a narrow ravine where there was no shunning them. We got through, however, with only one broken axletree and two wagon tongues, together with some other little fixings, which was really a favorable come-off.
    Wed. 3.--Went only about six miles today, as we were obliged to put in a new axletree. Camped upon the South Fork of Malheur again. It is now pretty evident that Meek, the pilot who is leading the company this route instead of the old one, does not intend to fall down to the Columbia via the John Day River at all as he told them on leaving Fort Boise, for we are evidently now through the Blue Mountains, and still making a southwest course. It is now said that Meek's intention is to take us over onto the head of the Willamette if he can find a place along the Cascades which will admit of the passage of wagons through, and if not we go down the Deschutes River to the Columbia.
    Thurs. 4.--Went about 15 miles, the latter part of the road being rough and rocky. Camped upon the head of a small branch of the South Fork of Malheur. The mountains where we first struck them were naked and perfectly destitute of timber. Near Fremont's Peak we began to see some timber upon them, and since passing that point the hills have all had more or less timber upon them, it being generally low cedar, and on reaching the top of the last hill before descending into this hollow, tall pines appeared to crown the hilltops before us.
    Fri. 5.--Went 15 miles, camping upon the Lake Fork of John Day's River. I was mistaken about our being through the Blue Mountains. Although we were through the main range, yet the road for the past few days has led across low mountains which, having their steepest descent toward the west, did not appear high until we ascended them. The map of the country we had with us also indicated that we had passed the head of John Day River, as the Malheur was made to head much further south then the John Day, and yet we have held a south-southwest course from the Malheur, and are now upon the head forks of the John Day River.
    Sat. 6.--Went about 14 miles today, camping upon another fork of Crooked River instead of John Day as stated yesterday, and we are in fact upon the waters of Deschutes River, and steering direct toward the Cascade Mountains in order to attempt a passage through them. The tale of our going down the John Day River was a mere tale of Meek's in order to get us upon this route and then take us wherever he pleased. But if he now fails to take us across the Cascades his head will not be worth a chew of tobacco to him, if what some of our men say prove true. He is with Owensby's company, which is one day's travel ahead of ours, and we make their camps every evening, where we find a note buried at the foot of a stake, stating the distance to the next camp, and the names of the streams.
    Sun. 7.--Went about 16 miles, camping upon a lake of miserable, stagnant water, filled with ducks, geese and cranes, and surrounded with tall rushes, the borders being miry. Had excellent grass, but were obliged to pack wormwood for half a mile for fuel. During the night 15 head of horses and mules left us.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, July 18, 1879, page 2


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Mon. 8.--Went about 13 miles, camping upon a creek which appears to feed the lake our last camp was situated upon. We have been traveling for the last three days across a nearly dead level plain, in a southwesterly direction, and are now nearly across it, the bluffs rising abruptly from the level of the plain, which they surround, and are in many places nearly perpendicular. Many parts of this plain, particularly where we struck it, has a soil of good depth, and is covered with a very fine kind of grass resembling blue grass. Much of it is covered with that same eternal wormwood mentioned so often, and there are many places which look as though they were covered with water during the wet season, now presenting a surface of naked white clay encrusted in places with a white substance resembling saleratus and answering the same purpose, as some of the women in camp have proven by experiment. Four of the horses which left our last camp were found today at a distance of several miles from it, but there is no news of the others. They probably strayed off in search of water, as the borders of the lake were so miry they could not get
a drink.
    Tues. 9.--Last evening a child of E. Packwood, of Illinois, which had been ill a few days, died suddenly. At present there are a good many sick about the camp, the majority of them complaining of fever. The child was buried in the dry wormwood barrens, and as we left the camp the wagons filed out over the grave, thus leaving no trace of its situation. The reason of our doing this was that the Indians in this part of the country are very fond of clothing, giving almost anything they possess in order to obtain it, and fearing that they might disturb the grave after we left, we took the precaution of leaving a beaten road across it. I cannot say that they would do anything to a grave were they to find one, for we have passed several evidently made by the emigrants at various times, and none of them appeared to have been disturbed. Went six miles, camping near a spring which sinks near where it rises.
    Wed. 10.--The ground about our encampment is encrusted with salt, which in some places may be scraped up with the hand in nearly a pure state. Went about 30 miles today, over a road pretty well strewn with the hard, round niggerheads frequently mentioned after leaving Fort Hall, and camped after midnight at a spring, where we found Owensby's company, which had arrived 24 hours before us. Their last camp was about seven miles this side of ours, and it was a dry one in the midst of wormwood barrens, so that they were nearly two days without water. We found about 100 head of their stock between the two encampments, apparently nearly famished for water, and drove them on with us, but few of them giving out on the way, although they looked miserable.
    Thurs. 11.--It being 2 o'clock this morning before we got to camp, we stuck to it the remainder of the day. Owensby's company left about noon for a camp six or seven miles ahead. His company are in as much confusion as any set of fellows I have seen on the road. Having lost confidence in Meek, many of them are trying to hunt a road for themselves. It seems there was a misunderstanding between us and Meek when we left Snake River respecting the route he intended taking. We understood also that on leaving the Malheur River he intended striking over to the John Day River and down it to the old road. When we found ourselves on the branches of Deschutes River it rather surprised us, and as we had a report in camp a few days before that he was going to pilot Owensby across the Cascade Mountains to the Willamette settlements, we supposed he was going a straight shoot for them. It seems that he calls the Deschutes River the John Jay, which he says is the name by which it is known to the mountain traders, and the similarity in the sound of the two names made us mistake the one for the other. It was his intention to follow down Crooked River to Deschutes and down it to the old road, but when he came to the marshy lake spoken of last Sunday, the company refused to follow him if he made the circuit necessary to get around it upon Crooked River again so he struck off in a westerly direction in order to get upon the main Deschutes River. He well knew that there was a scarcity of both grass and water across here and so informed them, but it was nearer and they would have him go it, and now blame him for coming the route they obliged him to.
    Fri. 12.--Went about six miles, camping upon another little spring running a short distance, sinks again. The ravine looks as though a smart branch ran through it at some seasons of the year. The hills around are covered with cedars; with the exception of a plain to westward, that appears to be the case with all the country to north and west of us, as far as the eye can reach, and that appears to be to the Cascade Mountains. Found two-thirds of Owensby's company still here, the remainder having gone on with the pilot and captain. A party of five men who left us last Tuesday morning to go back in search of the missing horses returned tonight bringing in nine of them which they had taken from a party of Indians, near Crooked River. The Indians appeared loath to give them up but they charged upon them and took them, running the Indians off, who they say are a miserable set of wretches with no arms but bows and arrows.
    Sat. 13.--Started this morning in expectation of a long drive across the plain before us, but when about four miles from camp met Meek's wife in company with a friend, returning with the news that they had found no water as yet and requesting all who were at the spring to remain there until he found a camp and returned or sent word back for them to come on. Nothing remained for us to do but drive back to the camp we had just left, where we found Tetherow's company also, so if misery loves company here is enough of it, for this small camping spot is nearly eaten out by our own large stock of cattle, and to add to all this there are some in the company nearly out of provisions.
    Sun. 14.--Last evening the portion of Owensby's company which were out upon the plain returned with their cattle and water kegs, having left their wagons out upon the plain seven miles from here, and no water had then been found within 30 miles of them. Today Meek ordered them to return to this place and sent an order for us to remain at this place until tomorrow morning, then let 10 or 12 men accompany him with spades and dig for water at a place he thinks it can be found, in the dry bed of a creek. This evening Owensby returned with his wagons, teams, cattle and all, having enough of lying out in the plain upon uncertainties. Meek came in after dark and said that from the top of a mountain a short distance from here he had discovered a cut in the side of a mountain apparently 15 miles distant where from the bright green appearance of the willows and grass there could be no doubt of our finding water and requesting that some horsemen might accompany him to search the mountainsides still further; he thought there would be no danger in some wagons starting tomorrow.
    Mon. 15.--This afternoon about three o'clock, 21 of Tetherow's wagons, together with six or seven of Owensby's company, made a start for the spot spoken of yesterday, which lies northeasterly from here, Meek accompanying them. A company of eight or ten wagons passed through the hollow we are encamped in, and started out into the plains by moonlight in the evening. They were a company we had never seen before and they said they were the last to leave the States for Oregon this year, starting some two or three weeks behind us. Their loose stock were nearly all working steers, they having enough apparently to change teams every day.
    Tues. 16.--Capt. Riggs accompanied by the two Wilcoxes started yesterday morning to search for water at a place they had seen the day before, and which the description given by Meek of the spot he expected to find water at, applied to precisely. They returned this morning reporting it the same with plenty of water and grass. We made preparation for starting immediately, but could not get ready until late in the afternoon, as our cattle were so scattered. We had a clear, full moon to light us on our toilsome way, which lay across a mountain to the northward, and after traveling about 20 miles we reached the long-sought spot at daybreak.
    Wed. 18.--We are now nearer or as near the spring from which we made the 30-mile stretch on the 10th inst. as at the camp after we had made it, and this too after lying in vexatious suspense, cramped in a little narrow, barren, rocky hollow among the mountains, with the dry plain some 40 or 50 miles in extent before us, with the delightful anticipation that we would be obliged to cross it before reaching water. Nor was this all; more than one family had shaken the last flour from their sack, and others could calculate to a certainty the day they would do likewise. Lay by today wishing to get a smaller company if possible, three large ones being mixed together.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, July 25, 1879, page 2


CROSSING THE PLAINS.
(From a ms. journal kept by J. FIELD, JR.)
    Thurs. 18.--Traveled about 11 miles in a northwesterly direction, striking a smart-sized creek running in the same direction and camping upon it. This creek has no brush upon its banks, which was the reason of it being overlooked when they searched the country for water. It is evident that Meek's knowledge of the country has rather failed him here, since it is actually a shorter drive from the spring we left on the 10th inst. to the head of the branch we camped upon yesterday than it is from the 10th to the 11th, and apparently a better road. Had we taken that road we would now be advanced at least 80 miles upon our journey, besides being saved the trying suspense of remaining in a miserable encampment several days, with no prospect of water ahead for forty or fifty miles.
    Fri. 19.--Went about 22 miles, road tolerably rough much of the way, camping upon a stream in a deep, narrow glen resembling the Malheur much in character, and which we believe to be Lohum's fork of Deschutes or Falls River.
    Sat. 20.--Went about eight miles, camping upon the same stream mentioned yesterday, down which we followed all day, frequently crossing it, and at one narrow pass we were obliged to follow the bed of the river for nearly a fourth of a mile.
    Sun. 21.--Went about 16 miles today, still keeping down the river, occasionally cutting across the lowest points of the bluffs, and camping upon it again. The hills along the stream upon either hand are covered in many places with tall pines.
    Mon. 22.--Went about seven miles, keeping still down along the river, which has to be crossed every mile or two, and sometimes two or three times in a mile. Camped at the foot of a tremendous hill, which it is necessary to ascend, and which when we first came in sight of appeared to be strung with wagons from the bottom to near the top, several companies being engaged in the ascent at the same time.
    Tues. 23.--Went about 12 miles, striking away from the river and camping upon a small branch of it. Had a long and hard pull in the morning to ascend the hill spoken of yesterday, but once up we felt amply repaid the trouble of climbing by the prospect which lay before us. There were the Cascade Mountains stretching along the western horizon, apparently not more than forty miles distant, forming a dark outline, varied by an occasional snow-peak, which would rise lofty and spire-like, as if it were a monument to departed greatness.
    Wed. 24.--Went about 15 miles, camping at a spring in the midst of the plains, without a single landmark to tell its situation.
----
    NOTE.--This ends the journal, and we publish below a letter from Mr. Field in regard to the latter part of the journey.--ED. FARMER.
----
PORT CHESTER, N.Y.,
    June 3, 1879.
    FRIEND CLARKE: Through the kindness of my old friend, R. Weeks, of Portland, I am in receipt of three numbers of your paper, containing installments of my diary kept while crossing the plains in '45, with a request that I may complete it from memory. This it is impossible for me to do, as it was cut short by my illness with camp fever, which destroyed all memory of what transpired during the remainder of the journey. I have  an indistinct recollection of crossing the Deschutes River in a wagon body caulked tight, and drawn back and forth by ropes, of being carried and laid upon a bed among the rocks that lined the river banks where we crossed, and of arriving at The Dalles so helpless that it was necessary to lift me out of and into the wagon like a baby. Then I remember going down to the Cascades in a boat such as the Hudson Bay Co. then used on the river, of walking and crawling past the first steep rapid, then getting into a canoe with some Indians and running the remainder of the rapids to the landing place of the old Calapooia, Capt. Cook owner and master; then of sailing down the Columbia and up the Willamette to Linnton, a place on the west bank of the river below Portland, and then having the only wagon road to the Tualatin Plains below Oregon City from the river. From Linnton to Oregon City I was a fellow passenger with old Mr. Fleming, the pioneer printer, so long connected with the press at that place, and I think it was late in November when we arrived there.
    When I returned here overland in the spring of '48 I deposited the diary with Capt. J. B. Riggs, of Polk County, and when I returned to Oregon in '50, finding that he had used the blank leaves of the book to keep his business accounts on, I left it with him. If it is still my property--and I know of no reason why it should not be--please hand it to the Society of Pioneers, of Oregon. With my compliments I herewith present it to them. [The original diary is now in the collections of the Oregon Historical Society.]
    It was written up daily after all my other duties as teamster and general assistant about the camp were performed. It has never been revised by me, and I hope my old companions will overlook any errors I have made.
Your friend,
    JAMES FIELD.
Willamette Farmer, Salem, Oregon, August 1, 1879, page 2


THE OCCASIONAL ADDRESS.
BY HON. STEPHEN STAATS.
FELLOW PIONEERS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:
    Another year has passed since the Pioneers of Oregon gathered themselves together, to have cheerful converse one with another, to discourse upon events connected with their early history, and to renew an acquaintanceship formed under circumstances peculiar in their nature, calculated to ensure a friendship permanent in its character, and abounding in incidents of so much interest that the bare contemplation of them forms a bond of mutual respect and esteem between the old Pioneers that time with all its changes and vicissitudes can never obliterate.
    I am one of those old Pioneers, having come to Oregon in 1845, and I have been selected by the Board of Directors of the Pioneer Association to deliver the address descriptive of the emigration of 1845, and this is the occasion upon which it is to be delivered; and I would shrink from the task assigned me did I not feel well assured that your knowledge of my abilities will not warrant you in anticipating a great display of oratory in my effort upon this occasion. Born upon the shores of the Atlantic, leaving the home of my childhood in early youth, and traveling westward until I reached the shores of the Pacific, and not having had the advantages of education that the youth of Oregon enjoy today, it is a source of much embarrassment to me to prepare an address, which, according to the rules of the Association, must be prepared in manuscript, placed in the printer's hands, and form part of the record of its transactions, and ever be a memento of my success or failure upon this to be memorable occasion. What I present to you today in relation to the emigration of 1845 is almost entirely from memory, and therefore it cannot be as correct and perfect a narrative as one could give had he preserved a journal of minutes and events as they occurred at the time. Then let me commence by saying that all through the month of April the hardy Pioneers, those in search of the promised land, beautiful Oregon, were making their way to the rendezvous, on the western bank of the Missouri River, just opposite the now populous city of St. Joseph. That was to be the starting point for all Missourians, they being a large majority of the emigrants of that year. My mind has often reverted to that period, when about three hundred persons encamped on the bank of the Missouri, their hearts beating joyously in anticipation of the bright and prosperous future before them, should they ever reach the Mecca of their hopes, bright Oregon, as pictured to them by friends who had preceded them and declared they had reached the paradise of earth. The sight of that camp ground, with a hundred blazing fires, around which might be seen the fond mother, the true-hearted wife preparing the frugal meal, the joyous little ones dancing with delight, and the young man and maiden billing and cooing like two turtle doves. It was a sight a king might envy. And yet, with all their mirth and joyousness, moments would come when busy thought scanned the future, and led them to ponder upon the dangers of the wilderness they were about to traverse, and the journey before them were well worth serious contemplation. To travel two thousand miles with all the appliances and conveniences of modern times is but a matter of a few hours or days at most; but to pursue the same distance through an almost trackless desert, with oxen and wagons, requires an undaunted courage deserving of success; and fellow Pioneers, have you met with success? Have you been amply repaid for all your toil and labor in reaching this beautiful valley? Would you again undertake the journey to secure what you have secured towards the enjoyment of life? Methinks I hear from every old Pioneer's heart the answer, I would. The possession of health, of ease and contentment in this blessed land of ours is satisfaction an hundredfold for all the dangers and toil of the past.
    The first day of May, 1845, was the appointed time when we were to break camp and begin our perilous journey. Everyone was active in making preparations for that eventful period; some were breaking oxen, some were making yokes, some making tents, and some preparing for matrimony, unconcerned about the future. Some days before starting, preparations were made to withstand the assaults of the wily savage, should such assaults be made. We formed a regular military company, elected Col. T'Vault Captain, John Waymire, now a resident of Dallas, Lieutenant, James Allen, Sergeant, and others to fill the various minor offices; had a time each day to go through all the evolutions and drill of a military company, and all seemed to vie with each other in the performance of the duty assigned them. On the day appointed we made a start, Capt. T'Vault leading the company with all the majesty of a crowned emperor, seconded by his Lieutenant John Waymire, who bestrode his steed as stately as Don Quixote in attacking the windmill. Noble-hearted old John! Methinks I hear him today, in his old accustomed stentorian tones, shout "Close up, close up; why the devil don't you keep close together; the Indians could kill all in the forward wagons before you'd know it, and then come back and scalp the last one of you fellows here behind!" We traveled on for a few days. (I will here mention that our company consisted of 61 wagons and about three hundred souls all told. Capt. Solomon Tetherow's' company consisted of 66 wagons and about the like number of persons. There were also other companies, which I may refer to hereafter.) As I stated, we traveled on for a few days without any incident worth mentioning until the night before we reached the Platte River; we had traveled all day until late in the evening, and then had to camp without water for ourselves or cattle. Those who had brought along a sufficient quantity of water hastily prepared a cup of tea before retiring for the night, while those who were not so fortunate lay down to rest and dream of times to come when they would suffer no more the deprivation of that soothing beverage. Early in the morning we started for the river, and when reached, great was our rejoicing, and many a parched tongue was refreshed in the limpid stream. Traveling along up the Platte, one night there were mysterious movements in and about the camp. Cupid, always on the alert to pierce the unsuspecting victim, had sped his dart with such unerring certainty that the pierced victims could find no salve to their bleeding hearts but in the solemnization of the marriage ceremony; so Capt. T'Vault was engaged as "master of ceremonies" to unite in holy wedlock these two pierced victims, and thus enable them to rejoice that though Cupid may wound the heart, a marriage certificate can ease the pain.
    We now began to look out for buffalo, and some herds had been seen in the distance. One morning, four others and myself left the train and started for the hills to see what we could do in the way of getting buffalo meat. After about six or eight miles travel, we came to a narrow valley, and looking up it we discovered something that looked like what we were in search of; we made chase and soon came up to a large buffalo, roaming solitary and alone as "monarch of all he surveyed." But his monarchy lasted for but a brief period, as he was soon laid low with the earth, pierced with a ball from the unerring aim of Ralph Wilcox. Yes, my true-hearted friend, Ralph Wilcox, was my traveling companion across the plains, and never can I forget his kind and genial ways--his generous disposition, manifested on all occasions when generosity was required at his hands. But where is Ralph Wilcox today? Is he in our midst rejoicing at the renewal of acquaintanceship with his old companions of 1845? Alas, no. His earthly pilgrimage is ended; he is gone to that "bourne from whence no traveler returns," and many of us who now survive him will be missing at our next annual gathering, and it will be the sad lot of some other pen to announce their death and departure from the fast-thinning ranks of the Pioneers of 1845. Ralph and I were born in the same state, New York, and in adjoining counties. We both made our starting point for Oregon from Platte County, Missouri, and having been intimate friends for over thirty-five years, I can truly say of Ralph Wilcox, he was one of the noblest works of God--an honest man. Then in memory of our departed friend, let me present the following deserved tribute from the hands of another Pioneer, Judge Deady, of Portland:
    "Dr. Ralph Wilcox has long been a prominent and respectable figure in the affairs and society of Oregon. At last he has succumbed to his only enemy and gone to the undiscovered country from whose 'bourne no traveler returns.' Distinguished through life for integrity and impartiality, in the dread hour and article of death, he had the courage to be honest with himself and his Maker, as he had ever been with his fellow man. Years ago we met him in the halls of the Territorial Legislature, at Oregon City; and there laid the foundation of that friendship and esteem which withstood the strain of time and circumstance for more than a quarter of a century.
    "As I once said of him, with ability and popularity, he only lacked audacity or industry, or both, to have been one of the foremost men in Oregon. But if he never reached the topmost rounds of the ladder of fame and power, at least his three score years on earth have been marked by no wrong or injustice to others. Kind, genial and unselfish to all with whom he came in contact, he leaves behind him neither hatred nor bitterness, but only pitying and mourning friends. In his death, I feel that one of the ties that bind me to earth has given way, and that I am so much the more willing to obey the ever nearing summons to depart and be at rest forever."
    Fellow Pioneers, let us drop a tear to his memory, and ever strive to emulate his virtues.
    But again to my narrative; we continued our journey up Platte until we reached Fort Laramie without any remarkable event occurring; but at the Fort a circumstance occurred which would startle the belles of Salem, and cause their cheeks to pale with horror. An emigrant by the name of Bailey had a beautiful daughter, whom a Sioux brave most ardently desired to adorn his wigwam and bead his moccasins; about noon one day, this daughter went pail in hand to the river for water; the dusky brave at the same time was laying in ambush to capture this piece of feminine beauty, and when he made a spring to clutch the prize, she was like the Irishman's flea, she "wasn't there," but was outstripping the wind in the direction of camp, and distanced the wily savage so much that he became more enamored of her than ever, and he had to be shown some trusty rifles before he would desist from his ardent courtship. The course of true love not running very smooth with this noble brave in that case, he entered into negotiations with one of our female emigrants for the purchase of her daughter, and the handsome price of twenty horses being offered for her, I became extremely fearful lest the mother would accept the offered price, and thus deprive me of a much coveted prize. Now if that bargain had been consummated it is a very doubtful question whether he, who now addresses you, would have been present on this happy occasion, but the bargain was not made. I am here today, and you can guess whether or not I came off victorious: whether or no I secured the much-coveted prize.
    After leaving Fort Laramie, we pursued the even tenor of our way without any extraordinary events happening. Before reached Fort Boise, some of the company had exhausted their supply of flour, and they had to depend upon what short allowances they might receive from their fellow travelers, and what scanty food they could procure from straggling bands of Indians they met with. Some of the families subsisted for weeks on dried salmon procured from the Indians, so much so that they cannot even bear the sight of one of those scaly denizens of the deep even to this day.
    When nearing Fort Boise, much discussion was had relative to the route to be followed after leaving that point. Stephen Meek had met the emigrants and proposed to pilot them over a new route by which to bring them into the valley, asserting that it was much shorter and better than the route to The Dalles. I recollect one old gentleman, John M. Forrest by name, who when the subject was warmly discussed, declared he would follow the old route, even if he had to travel alone--says he, "When I left the States, after reading the letters of Burnett and others from Oregon, I determined I would not be led off on any new route claimed to have been discovered by any adventurer, but would travel where others had traveled, and thus be sure of arriving at the desired point to which we are all looking." But now the time had come for action. One morning, after a night spent in spirited discussion, Mr. Forrest broke camp and started on the old trail; others with much warmth attempted to restrain him, but he persisted and about twenty-five other wagons followed his; others under the leadership of Meek, struck off on the route declared by him the best and shortest; but well would it have been for all those so doing, had they persevered in following the old route, for experience proved to them that had they so done, much suffering in almost every conceivable form would have been avoided, and that they would have arrived at their destination much sooner and their condition more hopeful as to future resources to provide for their wants during the approaching winter.
    It was but a few days after Meek left Fort Boise, that he became hopelessly lost, and had it not been for the good judgment and determined energy of some of the emigrants, and their hiring an Indian to pilot them through to The Dalles, many would have perished and suffered a most torturing death, that now survive and today can recount the many sad incidents and afflictive events of their wearisome travel to that point. It has been positively asserted that while Meek was thus lost, that he suffered to such an extent for the want of water to satisfy his thirst, that he opened a vein in the neck of his mule, and thus in all probability secured his own life by quaffing the life's blood of that most noble and docile quadruped. But be that as it may, whether true or not, there were moments when the sufferings of husband, wife and children became so unbearable, and so intensely torturing to the mental vision of those having others depending upon them for support and protection, that had he who counseled them to take an unknown and trackless route when almost out of provisions, and energies already nearly exhausted, made his appearance among them, he might have been made a sacrifice to appease the angry passions with which they were inflamed.
    Those who took the old route arrived at The Dalles in good season without incurring any other trials than would naturally result from their mode of travel. To the best of my recollection, Capt. Barlow's company was the first to arrive at The Dalles, others following in quick succession. Here was a stopping place for the rolling of the wagon wheel, and it became necessary to provide some mode of conveyance by which the families and wagons could be transported to the long looked-for end of their travels. Barlow with great energy and undaunted courage urged the idea of crossing the Cascades with our wagons by cutting our way through, but those living at The Dalles and having a thorough knowledge of the difficulties, and making them known to the emigrants, they discarded the idea and proceeded to make rafts to convey their families and wagons down the river to Vancouver, whilst others prepared to drive stock over the mountains by an old Indian trail to the Willamette Valley. I was with those driving the stock, and a trying time we had of it. I recollect one instance in particular: We had about one hundred and fifty head of cattle, and in crossing one of the main spurs of the mountain leading from Mt. Hood's snowy peak, there came on a heavy snow storm, with a wind blinding to the sight; so much so, that we lost all trail of the cattle, and struck for a camping place, regardless of distance or direction, and fortunately we had to travel but a short distance till we found one, with a fine supply of grass for our almost famished horses, and a plentiful supply of material with which to make a fire and restore a degree of warmth to our chilled bodies.
    There was one, and only one female with us at the time, and she suffered intensely from the cold; she was illy prepared to withstand the chilling storm, being scantily clothed; but her husband, true to the instincts of a noble manhood, divested himself of his own well-worn blanket, and helped to shield her shivering frame from the inclement storm. Tears were shed that day by men unused to weeping, at witnessing the sufferings of that lone female without the power for the time being to give relief. That lady was Mrs. Walden, daughter of Mr. Lemmon, long a resident of Marion County, but now deceased. I said we lost all our cattle on that day, but there was one exception; "old Uncle Davy Carson," an old mountaineer and a fellow traveler with us from Missouri, with more than ordinary courage and endurance, had a favorite cow which he singled out and determined to drive with him to camp wherever that might be, and he succeeded, and long after his arrival in Oregon, enjoyed the benefits to be derived from such a precious milker. Now as to the other lost cattle, early in the morning after the storm, Uncle Davy Carson, with a few trusty and dauntless spirits took the back trail in search of them, and after a toilsome and tedious ascent, found them huddled together, high up between two ridges running down from old Mt. Hood, with his covering of perpetual snow; and so completely bewildered that it was almost impossible to start them from their sheltered nook; but Uncle Davy with true grit and unabated energy determined that to camp they must go; and go they did, but not until Uncle Davy became so wearied with excessive exertion that he must resort to some means to refresh himself, so after casting about for a time, a bright idea struck him (though he was always in the habit of being similarly stricken), espied a bell suspended from the neck of a poverty-stricken cow, and immediately made for it; it was soon stripped from the cow and in a few minutes the lacteal fluid from the gentle beast had filled it to the brim, and soon Uncle Davy was himself again. The refreshing beverage restored him to new life and animation, and he shortly came shouting into camp with not a hoof missing.
    But Uncle Davy is gone, peace to his ashes; a kind thought to his memory, and may some abler pen than mine at some future time recount the nobleness of his actions in all his intercourse with his fellow man.
    We reached Oregon City in thirteen days from The Dalles (two of which we were without food), and on our arrival, those of us in advance were kindly and hospitably received by old Dr. McLoughlin. He immediately furnished us with provisions without money and without price, and extended to us favors which we were ever ready to reciprocate. I am not one of those who wish to cast reflections on the character of Dr. McLoughlin or wish to impute to him anything wanting in the kindest feelings towards the emigrants of 1845. For well do I know that but for him, many would have been more embarrassed in making provision for the coming winter's necessities than they were, and I have yet to see the emigrant of 1845, who when speaking of the "old man Doctor," does not speak in high commendation of his actions towards the emigrants of that year.
    The companies that followed the "Meek cutoff" were much longer in reaching The Dalles, and the emigrants endured all the suffering both mentally and physically that human nature was capable of enduring. And had it not been for a few courageous spirits, they would have been hopelessly lost, and suffered an excruciating torture and death, where no human aid could have brought them relief, and where hearts recently beating with high hopes of future happiness and prosperity, sank down almost to despair and breathing condemnation upon the author of all their calamities. But thank God, most of them arrived in safety, and some of them are here today, enjoying the fruits of their labor, their countenances beaming with smiles of pleasure and ever ready to recount to surrounding friends the recollections of that eventful period to which their minds now revert, with malice toward none, and with thankfulness for deliverance from the perils in which they were involved.
    I now wish to revert to an individual (formerly a citizen of Salem, now deceased) of whom no person has referred to in their addresses before this Pioneer Association. I refer to Captain Charles Bennett, an emigrant of 1844; I first became acquainted with him in 1835, forty-two years ago. He was then a subordinate officer of Company "A," U.S. Dragoons, stationed at Fort Leavenworth. In the spring of 1847, I made a trip to California; Bennett was with us and assisted in camp duties; he was a very active and energetic man, always on the lookout for something ahead; upon our arrival in California, after a short time he left us for Sutter's Fort. After being there a short period, he and a man by the name of Marshall (he of gold mine fame) entered into a contract with Sutter to erect a saw mill, and while engaged in its erection, the first discovery of gold was made. Now Marshall has always been credited with being the first discoverer, but had it not been for Bennett, in all probability that auriferous region would never have yielded up its golden revenues to the enterprising Yankees. Bennett's searching eye was the first to behold the sparkling "dust" glistening in the mother earth, where it had been embedded for centuries. He it was who first exhibited the first ounce of gold dust to the wondering gaze of the Californians. Well do I remember, when with sparkling eyes and enthusiastic hopes he brought that first specimen of gold, and recounted to us the manner of its discovery, and the extent of its deposits, saying at the same time, "if it really is gold, we can get all we want and become as rich as Crœsus." I claim for Bennett the credit of being the first discoverer of gold in California. He made our house his home when not employed, and I received from his own lips an account of the manner of its discovery in 1848. But Bennett is now gone; he met his death with that true bravery for which he was noted, while fighting to protect the settlers on our frontiers.
    But again, the emigration of the year 1845 consisted of between five and six hundred wagons, and about twenty-five hundred souls. Some were well provided with the requisites for a successful trip, and suffered but little serious inconveniences, whilst others illy prepared for such a journey had many apprehensions concerning their safe arrival at their journey's end. We were from five to six months making the trip from the Missouri River to The Dalles, and if any pen could recount the incidents connected with that journey, it would form a volume of great interest, and of many events that would thrill the heart with emotions, both of a sad and a cheerful character.
    I will here refer to another individual connected with the early history of Oregon, one through whose exertions we are indebted in a great measure, to the many benefits we have received, and to the possession of the broad and fertile acres in this blessed land of ours. I refer to the Hon. Samuel R. Thurston, now deceased, he who was the first elected Delegate from Oregon to the Congress of the United States. It was through his energy and devotion to the interests of the people of Oregon that the Donation Bill granting land to the early settlers became a law. He left here in 1849 to take his seat as Delegate, and no one I presume at this day will fail to accord to him an untiring energy to promote the interests of the settlers in this his adopted country. His name should be held in grateful remembrance, and more especially by the women of this beautiful valley, for by the passage of the Donation Bill, the wife was secured in the possession of 320 acres of land, and well worthy was she entitled to the benefits of that law, for she breasted the hardships and dangers of that tedious journey across the plains, to settle in a Territory where she must necessarily be deprived of many if not all of the conveniences and luxuries of life, and at the same time too, when uncertainties stared her in the face from every point to which she turned her eyes, or fixed her attention upon.
    I was but a youth when I crossed the plains in 1845, and therefore was free from the great responsibilities resting upon the shoulders of those of maturer years and having wives and children dependent upon them for support and protection; but now, having assumed the same responsibilities, having my thoughts, my energies, my attention, all directed towards contributing to the domestic happiness of those composing the family circle, I have often been led to conjecture what must have been the emotions swelling the breast of the true-hearted man, when leaving the abodes of civilization in search of a new home he cast his eyes about him, and reflected for a moment upon the toil and dangers to which he was about to expose those dearest to him upon earth; what must have been the feelings of the fond-hearted mother, when gazing upon her loved offspring, she contemplated for a moment the dread consequences that might ensue, before she should find a place she could again call "Home." Yet, with all her anxiety of mind, with all her fearful apprehensions, she exhibited a courageous disposition well calculated to nerve the manly heart and cause it to thrill with a grateful remembrance for her noble devotion to him who risked all for the future prosperity of all concerned, for those composing the entire family circle. But at that time, I was a little more conversant with the thoughts of those of my own age, free from care, with no apprehensions for the future; our only object was present pleasure, and I can truly say, the youth of that emigration had many periods of enjoyment while crossing the plains. I see around me today some faces, then rosy with youth, that participated in making joyous the dreary desert by the ringing laughter of some beauteous maiden at the mishaps of some luckless wight during the day's travel. I see before me him who, violin in hand, discoursed most beautiful music, whilst others danced by the light of the moon till the old violin squeaked the hour for rest. There is to be a dance here tonight, and I hope my friend Simeon Smith will bring out that old violin and give us that good old tune, "Pretty Betty Martin," which he played all the way across the plains, and then perhaps even I might be tempted to trip the light fantastic toe with some of those who thirty-odd years ago danced upon the velvety plains of Platte, and the sandy valleys of the Columbia, and who are present with us today, and perhaps are thinking now of that old violin.
    I must not forget to mention my friend General Joel Palmer, who was first chosen to deliver the Occasional Address at this time, but owing to impaired health, he was compelled to decline the invitation tendered him by the Directors of the Pioneers' Society, and you have missed a great intellectual treat by his nonappearance before you today. He was an emigrant of 1845, and being a man of varied experience, and of an observant character, I deeply regret that circumstances prevented him from presenting to us today such an array of facts and incidents connected with the emigration of 1845, which he certainly could have given, had time and circumstances been propitious for the preparation of an address bearing upon events connected with that year's travel. Palmer was captain of a company that made its starting point from Independence, Missouri, and was composed of about forty wagons. He was also one of those who first made the attempt to cut his way through the Cascade Mountains to the Willamette Valley. Just before reaching The Dalles, he with a few others of his company, went in advance of the wagons to spy out the land, and view out a shorter route to reach the trail where it entered the mountains. They were successful; they then returned to their teams, drove forward in the direction they had viewed out and camped on a creek bottom, the waters of which flowed from Mount Hood's snowy peak, and where they found grass for their horses and cattle, and then went to work to cut a road across a mountain that never had had the imprint of wagon wheel since the first dawn of creation. Others of the company took the road by the way of The Dalles, and those dauntless spirits hewing their way through a heavily timbered mountain, sent word by them to the settlers in the valley concerning the work they were engaged in, and that they desired assistance, both in the way of provisions and labor. They prosecuted their labors in cutting their way through until it became too late in the season to accomplish their object, and so had to abandon the work and return to the camp previously made, where they proceeded to build a cabin for the preservation of their wagons and baggage through the winter, and until they could return for the same next season. Three young men, whose names I do now recollect, were left in charge of the camp, and they were furnished with supplies for their winter's use by persons in the Willamette Valley, who had received word of the efforts of these energetic men to cross the mountains and the scarcity of provisions with which they were supplied.
    In the spring of 1846, Palmer was one of six who started and traveled across the plains to their homes in the eastern states, and he returned with his family again in 1847, since which time he has been a true resident Oregonian. You see the General has made three trips across the plains, and what has passed before his vision--naturally and mentally--could it be related to this audience, I think they could then say they had been agreeably entertained. But the idea of giving a description of the emigration of 1845 is a little preposterous, when limited to the brief space of one hour. Every individual emigrant has had his own experience and knowledge of events as they have transpired, and the longest day that Oregon ever witnessed would scarcely be sufficient time in which to recount the many circumstances and events of an interesting character that transpired during that weary tramp across the plains.
    It has been the duty of him who delivered the Occasional Address to call the roll of the persons composing the emigration of which he was a party. I asserted in advance the impossibility of my complying with that part of the programme, owing to the lapse of time, and to my utter inability to prepare a roll that would do justice to the persons composing the emigration of 1845; and had it been possible, the calling the names of two thousand individuals would prove monotonous, and well calculated to exhaust the patience of the people assembled here. And yet, I do not deem it out of place to refer to some few individuals who crossed the plains in 1845; you have some of them in your midst who have been residents of Salem and vicinity for many years. Where is Wm. J. Herren? He is amongst us today, enjoying in retrospect the pleasing associations of the past, when, ox goad in hand during the day, he anticipated a joyous occasion when assembled around the camp fire at night. He has been a prominent member of society, been elevated to many positions of trust and responsibility by the free choice of the people, and today occupies a position to which his devotion to the interests of the agricultural classes justly entitles him. There is John Durbin, Sen., who in 1845 was as robust and hearty as any amongst us today, but who now, in the decline of life, can look back to those days when all his energies were called into full play to preserve that large band of cattle from the thieving clutches of the red man, and I think I can safely say that those little reminiscences of the past are not altogether of a saddening character. And you have Rufus A. Riggs among you, who has the record of the journeyings of a principal part of the emigration of 1845 in his possession, and had I obtained possession of that record a few days sooner, I might then have prepared for you a feast that would have been more decidedly interesting than this desultory address with which you are now afflicted. James B. Riggs, the father of Rufus, who also was an emigrant of 1845, has gone the way of all the earth, after traversing the plains and living and enjoying all of life's comforts in this delightful clime; he died highly respected and honored by all with whom he was acquainted. Marion County was and is the home of many of the emigrants of '45. Where are your Smiths, your Taylors, your Williams, your Simmons, your Halls, your Englishes, and others I might mention? Some of them are yet actively engaged in the performance of life's duties, whilst others have ceased from their labors, and laid them down to rest, free from the cares and turmoils of life, and deeply regretted by friends who survive them. Capt. English, whom you all knew, and who struggled under as severe and trying circumstances as any of the emigration of that year to reach this coast, after a long, arduous and eventful life, has departed from our midst and left behind him a name the synonym of hospitality and honesty.
    I noticed in the Statesman a day or two ago the inquiry, Where are the Pioneer printers? In answer, I will say that one of them has gone to the spirit land, there to enjoy the reward of a well spent life. I allude to Mr. John Fleming, a pioneer of 1845. I had the pleasure of an intimate acquaintance with him during the journey across the plains, and can recall to mind many acts of kindness which he did to myself and others during that trip. He was a resident of Oregon City, and his hands were amongst the first to set type in the publication of a paper in Oregon. Although conversing frequently with him on the subject of setting type and printing in general, I then little dreamed of the manifold duties of the printer. It is a busy life of condensing and rearranging, tearing down and building up, transforming badly spelled and poorly punctuated and miserably written manuscript; yet he loves it, and Fleming was equal with any other in his attachment to the art preservative. I hope if this manuscript comes into the printer's hands he will treat it tenderly, if for no other reason than out of respect for my departed friend Fleming, who could always appreciate the intention of the writer, and at the same time denounce the writing. Peace to his ashes, and may his name retain an abiding place in the memory of Oregon typos.
    I cannot conclude this address without mentioning another Pioneer of '45. I will say that the name of J. C. Avery has long been favorably known throughout the length and breadth of the valley. On his arrival in Oregon, he settled on the Willamette, near the mouth of Mary's River, and continued to reside there up to the day of his death. He was founder and proprietor of the city of Corvallis, and lived to see it one of the most thriving towns in the valley. He occupied many prominent positions in public affairs, and was always esteemed for his indomitable energy and perseverance in everything having a tendency to advance the interests of his adopted state. He now sleeps the sleep that knows no waking, and his friends will ever hold in remembrance the kindly associations connected with his eventful life. And Fredrick Waymire, he who was Polk County's truest friend in all that appertained to her best interests, where is he today? Numbered with the dead. Could he be here present with us today to discourse upon events connected with the emigration of 1845, your ears would be saluted with an interesting theme that few but him could present to you. He was a member of the convention that framed our state constitution, was at different times a member of the state legislature, all of which positions he filled with honor to himself, and with a cheerful acknowledgment by his constituents that he was a true and devoted public servant.
"Dear friend, farewell, your flight you've taken,
Yet memory will kind thoughts awaken."
    Now I believe I see before me my friend Rees, who although he was here prior to 1845, yet he is indebted to the emigration of that year for all the domestic bliss he has enjoyed for these many years. He became enamored with the charms of one of the fair maidens who crossed the plains that year, and had it not been for her affectionate disposition, he might still be an old bachelor, whang in hand, mending his old buckskin unmentionables. I hope Rees now does and ever will bless the emigration of 1845 for bringing to his arms the lovely maiden who has shared his toils, wept when he has wept, rejoiced when he rejoiced for more than a quarter of a century. Long life to Rees; may he live to enjoy many such occasions as the present one. Yes, friend Rees, you helped to organize this Association, you have contributed all in your power to make it a success, and today you can foresee for it a prosperous future.
    This is a day to which many of us have looked in anticipation of pleasure and enjoyment of a social character. It is a day which brings together persons who in the distant past have shared the same toil and danger, have been bound by a mutual interest in each other's care and protection, and who after passing through difficulties apparently insurmountable, have at last reached the acme of their cherished hopes, fair Oregon, whose fertile soil and salubrious climate gives competency and health to the industrious dweller within her borders. Fellow Pioneers, let not this Association fail through indifference or a want of interest to render it perpetual. Old Pioneers are fast passing away, but a few more years, and those of 1845 will have rendered up their account, and now is the time to prepare for a future generation some means by which they can gain a knowledge of the early settlement of the country and its progress from a wilderness in 1840 to its present high state of civilization.
Oregon's present career is a promising morning,
     Her future, a noontide of luster shall be;
Art, science and commerce, her handmaids adorning,
    My beautiful Oregon, that sits by the sea.
Oregon Pioneer Transactions for 1877, Salem 1878, pages 46-59



Last revised November 4, 2025