Emigrants to travel the Southern Route in safety should strictly observe the following directions, to wit:--
    1st. To carefully extinguish their camp fires, to prevent the burning of the grass.
    2nd. To travel in companies of about 20 wagons, and at least 25 men able to bear arms.
    3rd. To keep a guard with their animals at all times when not traveling (day and night). Three or four men on guard at a time will be sufficient on any part of the road.
    4th. Never to sleep two nights in the same camp--but move every day if but a short distance, nor pen or tie up their teams at night, but allow them to feed wherever they can.
    5th. Always to select an open spot for a camp, at a distance from the timber and brush along the streams, and from the rushes about the lakes. The stock also should be kept away from such places, as the Indians conceal themselves in them to do mischief.
    6th. From the headwaters of Ogden's River to the Cascade Mountains, the Indians along the road are poor, cowardly and treacherous; they are beggars by day and thieves at night. The less emigrants have to do with them either as friends or enemies the better for them. They should be kept at a distance, by signing them away by day and firing a few shots about occasionally through the night to let them know you are vigilant.
    The Rogue River Indians are rather better but more dangerous. They will wish to trade horses (which they have stolen), skins, salmon &c., for guns and ammunition, but it is not only unlawful to trade these articles but very unsafe to arm them, for they will undoubtedly steal your property or kill you if they have an opportunity. There is but few of the Umpquas, and of course they are not dangerous--but they have stolen from, robbed and murdered the emigrants. If you should need their assistance in crossing the Umpqua River, pay them for the service what is right but do not permit them to extortion.
    7th. From where Greenwood's Cutoff enters the Bear River Valley on a direct course (nearly E. & W.) to the head of the Cajeux Creek is less than 100 miles; by the road it is 225. There is nothing to prevent wagons from making this cutoff, but some 6 or 7 miles of rough road in descending into Cache Valley; this might be examined and its practicability determined in a day or two.
    Mr. Anderson and many other mountaineers you will meet with on Bear River are well acquainted with this route and would conduct a party through for a trifle; I would advise emigrants to examine and if practicable to make this cutoff; it will avoid some bad road and save seven or eight days' travel.
    If the road still pass Fort Hall, it will be as follows.

    Messrs. Saxton, Martin and six other persons arrived at the first settlements at the head of the valley on Tuesday last, from California. They were only fifteen days from settlement to settlement. They were attacked by the Rogue River Indians at the "Point of Rocks," who succeeded in stealing from the party some sixty-five head of horses. The escape of the little company with their lives may be considered, under the circumstances, most miraculous.…
    Mr. S. states that during the attack at the "Point of Rocks" he observed a Molalla Indian among the assailants, one whom he was well acquainted with during the time of his residence here. He is of the opinion that the news of our Indian difficulties has already been spread among the savages of that section of the country, who are gathering in for their share of the plunder of the coming immigration. Could not some early step be taken to ensure the protection of the immigrant?
"From California," Free Press, Oregon City, May 6, 1848, page 2


    In 1848 a strange frenzy seized upon Oregonians, and that was the scheme of an immense cooperative corporation so vast in its comprehensiveness and details that its advocates and promoters delighted to name it a 'Commonwealth.' Because the various expeditions to the sage deserts of what is now Nevada developed the existence of a large, fertile and meadow-like body of desirable land about the lakes at the head of Klamath River, where no one was likely to settle soon, we went further and in anticipation fondly gave a local name, the proud 'Klamath Commonwealth,' which all leaders urged to occupy at once in order to carry out our cherished plans without let or hindrance by outsiders. Then, too, it was urged that we would be near enough to the newly discovered gold deposits in Southern Oregon to have the monopoly of supplying miners with all they needed from our diversified industries! The objections to Shasta and Rogue River valleys were that their numerous aboriginal population had been bitterly hostile since discovery. The fifty who had the experience of that untiring vigil on the 'pirate ship' told us much that helped to fan the flames of that excitement by the recital of more stories of fabulous metallic wealth in some southern tributaries of the Rogue. And now another sentiment began to seize upon some, and that was that gold would soon become so plentiful that it would have no more value than lead! The plan was cherished to begin the foundation of all industries at once, in modest 'plants' of course, and by not producing gold ourselves we might hope to maintain its usefulness as money! All can now see the fallacy of our theories, and may it not be that silver, notwithstanding any probable plenty, will continue to maintain its value?
    In those councils we had such minds as Rev. Richard Miller, James Fulkerson (afterwards a judge), Captain Dunbar, William Rector, Jesse Applegate, Captain Levi Scott, Captain Tetheroe, Benj. Burke, James Linn and Charles Applegate.
    The signers and promoters were all abundantly able to do their share of sustaining the enterprise.
    A general bookkeeper's office was contemplated where would always appear the means, genius and bodily energy of each member as it was contributed, and he duly credited with his proportionate share of all profits and losses. (It is pretty well known that nearly all persistent cooperative farming enterprises are successes. K.)
    The favorite theory of these men was that competition was the selfish and destructive motive of brutes and barbarians, and should not receive the countenance of thoughtful man who, only amongst created beings, carried the image of a beneficent God in his features! Humanity, like its antetype, should practice helpfulness instead of imposing crushing burdens; the result of a too keen rivalry!
    Then too in their discussions it was argued that the impending depreciation or demonetization of that precious yellow metal from superabundance would be a priceless boon to mankind when it was no object of miserly and heartless hoarding. We should then see it used only for its utility in the arts and sciences and for all manner of always lustrous articles of adornment and luxury which would give employment to hundreds of the laboring classes in producing all the varieties of beautiful designs. That disposition would furnish a depository of values which would not disappear from popular use like the coin, only to deal in fictitious values in the great game of profit in money speculation in its multiform features.
    Then, too, another view was that if the gold fields should become exhausted and no industries had been put in operation, we should be in a sad predicament.
    Those were days of earnestness, and meaning was in all discussions. Debate was not mere wordy war, but was a serious prelude to action. Hence fifty wagons were furnished with good teams and loaded with all manner of implements for any branch of industry.
    Abundance of arms and ammunition had a safe compartment; amongst them many Colt's dragoon and navy revolvers, with some improved rifles for long-distance shots.
    The rendezvous was twelve miles west of Salem on the Rickreall (Riviere La Creole? K.), where it was decided to follow the South Route emigrant trail. 'The Calapooias'? Oh, a route bad been found that raised only two thousand feet above tidewater! When they reached Emigrant Creek, instead of the emigrant trail out to Klamath Lakes, they concluded to cut a new route over the Siskiyous three miles east of where the Southern Pacific tunnel is made, nearer Pilot Rock. It was a heavy climb, but these were the dauntless! while the descent was duly made to the Klamath and then up the flanks of Shasta, where they found gold enough to justify. (Whether they founded Yreka or not is unknown to the writer, but here is the first mention of the locality. K.) But the altitude was so great that the weather was raw and inclement. Then, too, they decided that although mining promised well, the prospects for agriculture were not so good as the Rogue River afforded. So the return to the latter was decided upon; but they discovered a better route by the Rogue River gorge, where the railroad tunnel opens. It required from fifteen to twenty yoke of oxen for each wagon, and they passed over ground under which the 'S.P.' tunnel now runs!
    They made corrals two and a half miles east of the subsequent Jacksonville, perhaps on the 'Hanley' and 'Ish' tracts.
    Jackson Creek was tried for gold and found promising. The tenth of May had come, and it was time to plant potatoes and sow spring wheat.
    The Indians were alarmed at the stopping and began to fear the loss of their territory. In 1846 'Old John' had consented to the emigration through, but not to stop. When plows were got out the natives swarmed around day and night. Each morning arrows would be found sticking in the soil which had been 'lofted' (shot upwards and so let fall) into camp in the night. Three men and two oxen had been thus struck but not seriously hurt. The 'swish' of the arrow had been heard by the guards and kept them on the alert. Of course the plow ground would be fenced and men were sent to select timber for rails--the valley furnishing some sticks of pine.
    Discussion as to adaptability was much aroused and men were hard to control after the arrow and wounding episodes. Captain Jesse counseled making at once a large stockade. Finally May 25th was fixed upon to take a decisive vote as to occupying the Rogue River Valley permanently.
    The night of the 24th was clear and cold, while aboriginal signal fires surrounded and the howls and shrieks of the war dance were plainly heard. Also two white men were wounded with arrows.
    Early in the morning a pretty heavy frost was discovered, which laid on the grass and wagon tires until after sunrise. The destiny of the 'Commonwealth' must be decided before high noon of that day, and so during the forenoon electioneering was the exclusive business.
    Men who had never before spoken in public declaimed eloquently to save the enterprise.
    At half past eleven the 'hat' passed around to collect ballots, which upon count showed a small majority for the abandonment of the enterprise. Then the minority spent the rest of the day in attempting a reconsideration.
    Some contended that although God created advantages for man, the latter had not reached the point of utilizing that good; and that nothing valuable was attained without sacrifice, labor, perseverance, and, above all, experience.
    They were answered that frost was God's sign that the climate and soil were not agricultural, but that he had designed that spot of earth for the aborigine; and evidently we were trespassers!
    The collapse was irrevocable, and arose, not from want of material, but because of lack of comprehending the value of perseverance and cooperative effort.
    Now came strange incaution and want of forethought. Potatoes, scores of sacks, had been brought for planting; but were now unloaded and emptied to save the sacks. A surplus of flour was emptied out in a huge pile. Many cumbrous articles were burned. In reply to a very logical question, I will say that they knew of no place to sell or bestow one iota of their surplus. No civilized camp beside their own expired 'Commonwealth' was anywhere within the boundaries of that wide horizon! Just when they finished the destructive process a slow-paced train of prospectors came in view eighty rods away. Some of the 'cooperators' joined them and spent the whole summer about Jackson Creek and Yreka in prospecting and taking out considerable gold--postponing their return to the Willamette until the beginning of winter. Some wandered away over their own trail down south and did not stop until they reached good mining in the valley of the Sacramento.
Elisha Lindsay Applegate, quoted in Reese P. Kendall, Pacific Trail Camp-Fires, Chicago 1901, pages 187-194


    A  communication has been received from Capt. Wm. J. Martin and others, setting forth reasons for their returning to this valley. Want of room compels us to defer its publication until the next paper. They make out a strong case.
Oregon Spectator, Oregon City, May 18, 1848, page 3


    It is rumored that late explorations of the lower part of the Umpqua River and vicinity show its valley, below the rapids, to be much more extensive than heretofore supposed, and extremely beautiful and rich in soil. It is also said that all the lower Umpqua Indians, except seven, died with the measles and dysentery during the last winter. We shall soon have intelligence from that portion of the country upon which we can rely.
Oregon Spectator, Oregon City, July 13, 1848, page 2


Oregon Spectator, Oregon City, July 27, 1848, page 2


    The following, which we clip from the Polynesian of the 24th June, accounts for the appearance of the Honolulu in Oregon at this time. If all our neighbors upon the Pacific will devote their time to gold digging, the citizens of Oregon will be able to obtain their share of the spoils by obtaining a remunerative price for their flour, peas, oats, potatoes, butter, cheese, fish and lumber.
    All that is required to make gold abundant in Oregon is a fair market for the products of her soil.
    We have received per [the] Louise our regular files of California papers to the 29th of May. The only item of interest which they contain is the tidings of the fearful ravages of a terrible fever which has nearly depopulated all the seaport towns and caused a general rush to the interior. It is not exactly the yellow fever, but a fever for a yellow substance called gold. An exceedingly rich gold mine has been discovered in the Sacramento Valley, and all classes and sexes have deserted their occupations and rushed en masse to the mines to make their fortunes. The gold taken from this newly discovered mine is not gold ore, but pure virgin gold. It is procured by the simple process of digging and washing, and is obtained at the rate of from two to four ounces per day by each laborer. It passes current at San Francisco for $15 per ounce. Mr. Gray, supercargo of the Louise, brought with him two pounds of the metal. It has been analyzed by the knowing ones here who pronounce it "worth its weight in gold." We can assure our readers there is no hoax in this, for we have seen the gold with our own eyes, and it really benefited our optics. San Francisco was entirely deserted, everybody having gone mining. The Californian announced the suspension of their paper on the 29th of May, and the Star was also expecting to suspend publication. Laborers could not be procured at any price. Ten and fifteen dollars per day were offered and refused. Shovels, spades, pickaxes and other "digging" implements commanded enormous prices. Many unable to procure these were digging with knives, sticks and their fingernails. Enormous prices were offered for provisions delivered on the ground. Nearly 500 men, women and children were on the ground and crowds were still flocking up. The mine is some way above Sutter's Fort, about 130 miles from San Francisco. Its extent was unknown, but it was believed to be immense. The people with their families were camped out, and the mines being in the fever-and-ague country, many of them are doubtless by this time shaking off what of their finger- or toenails have not been worn off by digging. It is impossible to foretell the final effect of these discoveries in California. It is doubtful if there be sufficient force in Upper California at present to enforce any government regulations respecting these mines. There being no law respecting mines, it will be some time before government can control them.
Oregon Spectator, Oregon City, August 10, 1848, page 2


    The mining excitement in California was beginning to attract attention, and the lull in active operations following the Cayuse War led to the formation of a company of twelve stout, energetic frontiersmen, led by [George E.] Frazer as captain, to go there. Making the little preparation necessary, they began the march. Reaching Rogue River, they made camp near a spring. Just below and in sight, a lot of Indian squaws were seen, gathering wild angelico. As these were being passed on resuming the march, a man named Bowman raised his gun and deliberately shot and killed a young squaw, and another was aiming his gun at an old squaw who was frantically waving her hands for mercy, when Frazer interposed and ordered his gun down and advised him to shoot Bowman instead.
    Immediately afterwards, provoked by the atrocious murder, a band of at least 100 Indians, armed with bows and arrows, attacked and pursued the whites. The latter, being well armed, managed to keep them at a distance, killing many. That night camp was made, but quickly abandoned, and the march resumed and travel kept up all night. The pursuit was never given over till they were out of the Indian country and Shasta Valley was reached. The man Bowman, who had murdered the squaw, was so condemned by his comrades that he was of little account afterwards.
S.R.S., interview with Frazer, in "Pioneer Life in the West," Frankfort Roundabout, February 23, 1895, page 9


    As we crossed the bridge across the river, "right here," said our friend, in 1848, some thirty of us en route for the California gold diggings encountered a company of a hundred or more Indians. There was no bridge here then. We were fording with pack animals. There was no alternative but fight, and fight we did, killing over fifty of our assailants, and losing but a single man. But it was desperate work, and but for that ridge of rocks which prevented us from running away, I fancy we should all have been killed in attempting to escape. The best way always with Indians is to give fight at once and never run."
"Our San Francisco Letter," Helena Weekly Herald, January 16, 1873, page 2




"First Man at Coos Bay," Sunday Oregonian, Portland, May 24, 1903, page 15


    "When the discovery of gold at Sutter's Fort reached Oregon Territory, a company of pioneers traveled overland to the California mines. On arrival at the north end of Rogue River Valley, the company made camp near Table Rock. One member of the company was Ephraim Cannon Catching. His story of what happened at that camp as told to me more than forty years ago was about as follows: 'While we were busy with our camp arrangements, friendly Indians, some of whom had never seen white men before, gathered around and watched everything we did, but they did not bother anybody. Suddenly, and without provocation, a foolhardy member of our party fired his rifle at an Indian standing apart at a distance. The Indian fell dead, and a panic followed. The Indians swarmed around and demanded that the murderer be turned over to them for punishment. After considerable wrangling among us, we took a vote on what the Indians demanded. A majority voted to protect the murderer. I voted the other way.' Right there began the Rogue River War which took the lives of hundreds of whites and Indians and which cost this country millions of dollars. Catching was the first white settler in Coos County, Oregon, where he founded the town of Myrtle Point. He married late in life and became the father of thirteen children, one of whom, Mrs. Rose Crocker, lives in San Francisco. Every year hundreds of 'Knave' readers drive their automobiles the full length of the old farm, perhaps with never so much as a glance at his lonely grave at the top of a knoll a few rods away."
"Unpublished History," Ephraim L. Musick, "The Knave" editorial and feature section, Oakland Tribune, December 27, 1942, page B1


    I packed up as quickly as I could and started on my eight-hundred-mile journey across the mountains to California [in the summer of 1848]. The country on from where Mr. Turpin lived was entirely unsettled, so I was practically alone. I traveled that day until about nine o'clock at night, staked and hobbled my horses, and went to sleep.
    On the third day, late in the afternoon, I came up to my people; they were right at the mouth [of] the canyon where Canyonville now is. The next day we went through [the] canyon into the Rogue River country. Everything went well until the third day. On that we had to pass what was known as the "point of rock," a place that the Indians never allowed a white man to pass without a fight, and this was no exception, for they were laying in the road waiting for us. They held us up about two hours before we could drive them back so we could pass. We got through without losing a man or anyone getting wounded. From this time on there was nothing of importance occurred until we reached General Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento Valley.
Cyrenius Mulkey, "Eighty-One Years of Frontier Life," unpublished typescript, Oregon Historical Society Research Library Mss. 981, page 17