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Jackson County 1887 General Rules for Travelers.--First.--Carry your funds, except so much as you want to use on your journey, in the form of a draft or letter of credit. If you have no friend at your place of destination to identify you, let the banker who gives you the draft send your photograph and signature to the drawee. Second.--Remember that thieves along leading routes of travel obtain most of their plunder from men who drink strong liquor, show their money and gamble among strangers. Third.--Look with suspicion on strangers who claim to be old acquaintances. Fourth.--When you stop on the road, prefer a reputable hotel, and in a small town take the best. Fifth.--Buy your railroad or steamboat tickets at the main office, not from runners in the streets. If you are going a long distance, have a wallet for your ticket, and keep it in a special pocket where you can reach it at any moment. Inexperienced travelers often forget where they have put their tickets. Sixth.--If you are to occupy a particular berth, section or room, examine the car or boat beforehand if possible, and select the place best adapted to your wants. Seventh.--When you have baggage to be delivered or checked, you can generally trust the companies or firms which are associated with the railroads or steamboats, and a stranger should deal with them rather than with individuals who have no fixed place of business or responsibility. Eighth.--When your baggage is to be checked, have your ticket ready to show, deliver to the baggage man only the packages that are to be checked, and be careful to tell at once the point to which your baggage is to go. If the baggage is left where you can examine it, you can see whether the numbers attached to the packages correspond with those given to you. Ninth.--If you intend to stop over for a day on your way, it is the safer plan to have your baggage checked to that point. Tenth.--When you change cars, see that your baggage is transferred, that should be your first care, and attend to your meals afterwards. This is especially important if your baggage is checked to the point where the change of cars occurs. Eleventh.--Before starting, inquire how much baggage you can carry through free, and do not put anything in a bag, barrel, box or bundle, to be checked, unless you know that all the companies on your route will give checks for such packages. Twelfth.--Unless your trunk is of extra strength, put a stout rope in it, of sufficient length to tie it up in case it should be broken. The baggage smashers frequently make a considerable profit by selling ropes to travelers, whose trunks have been broken by needlessly rough usage. Thirteenth.--If baggage is to be checked, you should be at the office half an hour before the train starts, so as to have abundant time for seeing that all is right. Fourteenth.--Before starting, get a map and timetable, which a steamboat and railroad companies should furnish to every patron, to give him information about distances and stopping places. Some of the railroad timetables on our coast give the elevations, which are often of much interest in a mountainous region. The companies which have the most attractive routes and the best management have also, as a general rule, the most complete timetables and maps. Fifteenth.--Provide yourself with small change for use along the road. Sixteenth.--A long journey by rail through a sparsely settled region demands a lunch basket, which will give wholesome and palatable meals, at regular hours, with abundant room and time for eating. A little padlock should protect its contents. The provisions generally should be solid, dry, simple in their nature, free from grease or semi-fluid material, nutritious and varied in their flavors. Fresh bread, graham crackers, hard-boiled eggs, cheese of several qualities, roast beef (cross rib, having no bone or waste, is excellent for the occasion,) dried figs, prunes and dates are excellent staples. Roast chicken or turkey occupies more space than an equal amount of nutriment in boneless roast beef. Canned meats can be used after the others have been exhausted. Fresh bread and cheese should be enclosed in tin or carefully wrapped up to keep from drying out. Tea can be made before starting with such strength that a tablespoonful will be sufficient in a cup of hot water, which can be bought at the stations. Borden's condensed coffee makes a passable drink, when mixed with either hot or cold water. The lack of conveniences for washing dishes on the cars should be taken into account, before jellies and greasy mixtures are put into the basket. The plates, however, can be covered with Japanese paper, or thin wooden platters can be used and thrown away after every meal. The butter should be in a tin cup, without a handle. Bottles containing liquids should have the best of corks, so that there shall be no leakage. Seventeenth.--The stranger in California should learn to recognize the poison oak, and then avoid it with care. Many persons can handle it, and even eat its leaves and buds with impunity; others, by touching it, catch a troublesome inflammation, accompanied by an intense itching, sometimes by swellings, which are followed on very rare occasions by loss of sight or hearing. Many remedies are used, and what has cured one sufferer may be of little service to another. For the average sufferer, there is no better remedy than concentrated spirits of ammonia, applied as a wash. It is most effective when used immediately after a good scratching. The application causes acute pain for a few moments, but this is a trifle as compared with the long worry of the poison if not checked. Other remedies are saltpeter, common salt, and carbonate of soda, applied in strong solution as washes. Steam baths and plasters made of muslin covered with vaseline have also been recommended. John S. Hittell, Hittell's Hand-Book of Pacific Coast Travel, San Francisco 1887, pages 261-263 From Yreka to Grants Pass on Foot.
BY J. M. MACDONALD.
As an evidence of the unusually mild season, we note that the road over
the Siskiyou Mountains is clear of snow at this time (January 6th).
Considering that the summit has an altitude of about 4000 feet above
sea level, the fact that the road over it is a mass of soft mud instead
of several feet of snow is remarkable; and taken in connection with the
severe weather prevailing in the East leads us to account for the fact
as follows: The cold currents coming from the north on the Atlantic
coast cause a contrary current west of the Rocky Mountains. And this
wind from the south, which has prevailed since October, is doubtless
the cause of the mild weather experienced on the Pacific Slope during
the past two months. As a rule, severe weather on either coast begets
the contrary on the other, and naturally from the causes stated above.
The unusually high temperature at this season has been proportionate all over the Pacific Coast. At San Diego, the weather in the latter part of December approached nearly to the summer conditions of that part of California, although in October the thermometer there sank unusually low for a few weeks. During that few weeks, snow fell and lay on the Siskiyou Range to the depth of about a foot, but it has now disappeared and left the mud on the slopes in a liquefied state. Rogue
River Courier, Grants Pass, January 14, 1887, page 1
ASHLAND TO SAN DIEGO.
EDITOR TIDINGS:--Having
promised a number of my Ashland friends to give them my impressions of
California, I will try to redeem the promise. The trip from Ashland to
San Diego was a prosperous one, and everything from beginning to end
was intensely interesting. From the time we encounter the advance guard
of R.R. workers beyond Sisson's things begin to be lively, and as we
neared the great throng it became more lively and unpleasantly noisy as
well.Along through and past the vast throng of laborers, keeping a sharp outlook to escape flying rocks from the numerous blasts, we thread our way to Dunsmuir, then the terminus of the operating division of the California & Oregon railroad. To essay a description of the thump and bump, to say nothing of the dust and dirt of this part of the route my pen utterly refuses, and in despair I leave you to catch the impress as best your own imaginations can picture the tiresome performance. Of the grand feats of engineering upon the piece of road from Dunsmuir to Redding--its winding stairway courses and wild flights of 119 feet grade to the mile in order to emerge from the Sacramento canyon; of the permanent nature of the work, with its gigantic trestle work planted on massive masonry wherein thousands and thousands of barrels of cement have been used, spanning caverns of 120 feet in depth to make a road bed, and other points of interest, I need not now speak in detail. I will say right here, however, that the same practical skill and the same indomitable energy that have been exhibited thus far in this work will continue to be exercised, and the same vaults that have been thrown open to pay for the work will continue to stand with doors ajar until the iron horse of the golden state will go thundering down the Oregon side of the Siskiyous and complete at Ashland the chains of steel that are to bind the two states in a closer bond of union. (No visions of a road up the Klamath need disturb your dreams of railroad connection with this state for the present.) From Dunsmuir to Redding the country is of the same romantic character as that already passed, though in formation very different. This is primitive, that volcanic. But romantic is the word that best describes the surface of this whole country, every moment presenting some new feature of surprise. Now 'tis a modest undulating hill. Now a weird and cragged mass of the everlasting granite, gray-streaked and gleaming in the radiant sun, at heights almost bewildering. Now it's the river to right of us. Now it's the same to the left. Now we cross over and now return. Now in the light of the glowing sun, and now in the shades of midnight gloom. Over the waters, under the ground waking the echoes for miles around. Sped like an arrow onward we glide, till a dozen dark tunnels are passed in our ride. And the waters look up and the hills look down--the waters are blue and the hills are brown--and they seem to be saying "what do you mean" and tell us "such wonders we have not seen since earth was commanded in place to stand still and the waters permitted to run down hill." Having left Dunsmuir at half past 5, it is now 10 A.M. as we roll into the town of Redding, leaving our late romantic scenes far behind us. Redding is located in the heart of a rich agricultural and mining district. It is nicely laid out and well cared for and is a thriving place, deserving more than this rapidly passing notice. A few moments only we remain here and are off down the Sacramento Valley. A grand panorama is now passing before us--beautiful residences, extensive farms and flourishing orchards in a broad and beautiful valley. In the background on the west are the Coast Range of mountains and on the east the Sierra Nevadas, rising heavenward in their grandeur and glory. Enchanted and enchanting spot, how blest the lot of those who call thee home! But the scene grows more and more interesting as we approach the great metropolis at the golden gate. Every kind of fruit grown in this latitude in extensive orchards and vineries, with beautiful towns and villages greet the eye in every direction until we reach the bay at Benicia, when our train of a dozen or more cars dashes into the ferry boat and is transferred to the opposite shore--the road tracks on the boat conforming exactly to those on the shore, so that no difficulty is experienced by the trains getting on or off. From Benicia to Oakland was but a few minutes run and being made in the twilight we did not get much profit from it in the way of sight seeing. If I shall be able to recall the impressions made at Oakland, San Francisco, on the ocean and since my arrival here, I will report them next week. San Diego, Cal., Dec. 17th, 1886. II.
At Oakland we met W. W. Fowler and family, James T. Glenn and family,
John S. Drum and family and the family of Alex. Martin, relatives of
Mrs. R.--all pioneers of Southern Oregon--with whom we spent two weeks.
Also the late Col. C. S. Drew, well known to all the pioneers of the
Rogue River country, in the last days of his mortality, and since
deceased.Oakland is indeed a beautiful place and deserves the well-earned repute of being to San Francisco what Brooklyn is to New York. Its location is immediately opposite the great metropolis and is but 30 minutes railway and steamboat ride away. Stepping from the cars in Oakland or from the cable roads in San Francisco one takes but a few steps across the wharf to a beautiful steamer where seating himself in a magnificent room fitted in style and magnitude for the occasion, or strolling about the decks to take in what may be seen of either city from the boat, or other towns in the distance, of shipping and sailing in the bay, or of the beautiful blue waters thereof, he finds before he is aware of it that he is at the wharf of the other city with none too much time for the enjoyment of the diversified pleasures of the ride, or for rest from the toils of a busy day of trade or labor. Thus, taking the train in Oakland at any regular time of starting, we find ourselves thirty minutes thereafter alighting from the cars in front of the Palace Hotel or other parts of the great city, as we may elect. If there is a spot on earth more attractive than Oakland I wot not of it. Fortunate in its location and natural beauty it has been cradled and developed by wise heads in keeping therewith. It is magnificently laid out and beautifully ornamented with park and tree, and shrub and flower, and ought to be a very Eden--barring, of course, the failures of the typical Eden. The population of the place now numbers forty (40,000) thousand, and to give you an idea of its own business and its trade and business--commercial and social--with San Francisco, let me tell you something about the means employed, and the facilities brought into requisition. To accommodate the local traffic and to carry the Oaklander to San Francisco and back, there are two railroads in Oakland, each one sending off to the ferries a train of eight cars every thirty minutes, from 6 A.M. until 12 M. After which time one train only on each road runs at the same rate until morning. To carry the people from the trains across the bay each road has two large steamers plying between the two cities--one from each wharf every 30 minutes--equal to 42 round trips of eight cars each, on each road, and 42 round trips for the steamers at each ferry, or 84 round trips of eight cars each or their equivalents between the two cities every 24 hours. But you will say "who takes care of Oakland when all its people are off to Frisco!" The answer is the pretty feature of the whole arrangement, and is withal a very clever piece of diplomacy. When the franchises for these roads were granted the City Fathers were far-seeing and wise enough to exact of the R.R. folks that every man, woman and child in the city should be carried to and from any place on either line in the city free, so that the people of the town do any amount of riding every day within the city limits. Many of them in this way get a ride of five miles away from home to do their shopping or visiting and return in an hour, or when it best suits them. About the nicest piece of railroad engineering that, that I know of. But this is not all. It must be remembered that many who cross over in the morning and back home by noon, and nearly all those who go over after noon return in the evening, so that there will always be folks enough at home to take care of the town. (CONTINUED NEXT WEEK.)
Ashland
Tidings, January 28, 1887, page 4OAKLAND TO SAN DIEGO.
For Christian work the church in Oakland is well equipped and ever at
its post, doing valiant work for the master. In design, architecture
and capacity its edifices would do credit to older and more pretentious
places.(Correspondence continued from last week.) In educational enterprises and facilities it is the peer of the first in the land, the state university standing at the head of the system. But I must pass many things of great interest, amongst them its benevolent institutions and secular society organizations, with their broad foundations laid in solid masonry and in the hearts of their patrons and hasten to the conclusive, making a hurried notice of the manufacturing interests of the place. At the invitation of Mr. Fowler, accompanied by a guide, we visit the cotton and jute factory. Here we see the raw material tumbled into the pickers and watching it pass the various stages of transformation, much as in your woolen factory at Ashland, see it come out in the shape of sheeting, yarn, twine, bags, satchels, towels, tablecloths, etc., etc. Passing from the cotton factory we visit the San Francisco nail factory (located in Oakland). Here we see the raw material--old scraps of iron brought from all parts of the world as ballast, gathered into bundles of from 400 to 500 lbs. each, rolled on cars into the furnace and carried through successive furnaces, rollers, shears, knives, dies and stamps and come out perfect nails from the size of a lath nail to that of a 60 penny. From the raw material nine hundred kegs of nails are made and put into kegs every day ready for the builder's hammer. Passing the Judson Iron Works without comment we will now cross the bay and conclude this letter from impressions of the great city and vicinity. With Mr. Fowler still as guide, myself and Alfred make our first crossing. Here we meet our old friends M. Baum, of the old firm of McCall & Baum of Ashland, and his estimable lady, the Sachs Bros., and Cal. Wagner, nephew of mine host of the Soda Springs (Oregon) resort. Availing ourselves of the cable roads for a ride through various parts of the city we also visit the Golden Gate Park, of which I will not undertake any description. It must be seen to be appreciated. On another occasion at the invitation of Mrs. Martin, herself the guide and manager of the excursion, myself, Mrs. R., Alfred and Miss Elvira Martin seat ourselves in a fine carriage behind two superb blacks and with Mrs. M. as reinsman drive to the ferry, cross the bay, drive through the heart of the city over the Golden Gate Avenue to the Golden Gate Park, through the park and down to the sea at the Cliff House. Turning the team over to a groomsman here, we take our basket of lunch and jug of fresh water and go down to the beach, where, to the music of the breakers and the constant roar of the sea lion, we take our noonday meal on the clean white sand of the ocean. The seal rocks are literally covered with seal (sea lion) today. Their roaring is incessant and is much like the noise of a pack of blood hounds on track of game. Being new to us, we enjoy the whole scene here very much. We now return to the carriage and drive up to the Sutro Heights, a high point of land immediately above the Cliff House, where is constructed a second edition of the Golden Gate Park, only on a smaller scale, but nonetheless interesting, overlooking the sea. We are now ready to return and as we do so take in the city by a different route, crossing the bay at a different place. Barring its noise and earthquakes, San Francisco is a grand city. Over 300,000 inhabitants in 3½ decades is something whereof to boast. In the year 1900, earthquake and advent permitting, her population will reach a half million. Next week I will tell you something about the sea voyage from the metropolis and this southern country. ----
Our visit at Oakland ended, we embark at San Francisco on the P.C.S.S. Co.'s steamer Santa Rosa
for San Diego. At daybreak the next morning on awaking we find our boat
lying at the wharf of Port Harford, the shipping point for San Luis
Obispo, the latter being located some 12 or 15 miles in the interior.
On the evening of this day we sail (or rather steam) into Santa
Barbara, one of the reputed Edens of California. But we can only catch
glimpses of the place through the twilight, and so we can say nothing
about it from personal observation. At break of day, next following, we
anchor in the harbor of San Pedro, Los Angeles harbor. Being in an
almost open sea our vessel finds it very difficult to discharge the
freight consigned to this place, everything having to go ashore in
lighters. It is a continual thump-thump between steamer and lighter,
involving great patience, slow work and little execution. But by dint
of perseverance we are enabled to push off to sea again about noon and
reach our destination, San Diego, at 7 P.M., 53 hours from San
Francisco, where at the wharf we find expectant friends eagerly waiting
to receive us. Joyful, indeed, is the meeting and we are soon off in
carriages, preparatory to a final settlement, we trust, somewhere in
this beautiful climate.TO SAN DIEGO. San Diego, as you know, is situated on the bay of San Diego. It is just thirteen miles from the boundary line between the United States and Mexico and has a population of between ten and twelve thousand souls. Its location on the bay is five miles inland from the junction of the latter with the main ocean at Point Loma on ground gently rising to the height of one hundred and seventy-five feet and semi-circular in form, giving it the appearance from the bay and ocean of a vast amphitheatre of 6 or 8 miles radius. Viewed from the bay or beach or from the main ocean at night the effect is most beautiful. A thousand lights piercing through the darkness from as many windows all over the city, supplemented by hundreds of street lamps of modest pretensions and all surrounded by a quarter of a hundred electric lights, like so many planets, gleaming out from tall masts that tower 150 feet each above their respective bases, viewed from the entrance of the harbor as we sail in, seem almost a reflection of the starry dome itself. Point Loma is a high point of land or promontory, extending out from the mainland on the northwest at old town, between what is called False Bay and San Diego Bay, for a distance of five miles in a southwesterly direction. The bay, like the site of the town, is somewhat semicircular in form, though really more in the shape of a fish hook, the point of the hook representing the entrance to, and the opposite end the head of the bay. Sweeping in from the south under the east side of the promontory, its course is first north, then northeast, east and southeast in a continuous curve for about half its length to the site of the city, from whence it runs about on a tangent in the last named direction, to its head. Thus the harbor is completely landlocked, Point Loma protecting it from all west and northwesterners, while the peninsula running up from the Mexican coast fifteen miles in length between the ocean and bay is a complete wall of defense from the south and southeast. On the point of the promontory there is a government light house located--"a light in the window" for all mariners, and it is a matter of history that all reliable Pacific Coast navigators pronounce San Diego Bay the most accessible harbor for all kinds of weather on the Pacific Coast. While the depth of water over the bar is at low tide 23 feet, there is an abundance of anchorage, all over the bay for a distance of fifteen miles for every kind of vessel from the tiniest craft to the great man-of-war and freighters of 3000 tons burden. Its shipping channel being from 300 feet to 1,000 yards wide, it will be seen that a fleet carrying the commerce and navy of a great empire could find safe anchorage here in any kind of storm, while at Point Loma such a rampart of defense could be constructed that no alien foe could ever hope to enter it. From the following weather record it will be seen that the climate of San Diego has scarcely an equal in the known world. During the ten years ending with the year 1885, embracing 3653 days, there were 3533 days on which the mercury did not rise above 80 degrees, and but 42 days on which it rose to 85 degrees. During the same ten years there were 3568 days on which the mercury did not fall below 40 degrees, and only two days on which it fell to 32 degrees, and no day on which it fell below 32 degrees. These are almost if not altogether incomparable figures, so that for equability of climate this place is the peer, if it does not stand at the head of any place known in weather records. Happy clime! where nor day nor night
Coronado Beach comprises the peninsula between the bay and the ocean
and has been transformed within the last year from a barren waste to a
prospective Eden with ample grounds for the habitation of fifty
thousand people, and attractions second to no other place as a pleasure
resort.Nor scorching rays nor chilling blasts may reach thy blissful shore. And dreaded cyclone, swooping past 'tis felt and feared no more. The average monthly sales of real estate for San Diego County since the first of July last has been about $1,000,000, of which eight-tenths (8/10) was San Diego city property, while the separate sales of Coronado Beach lots aggregates for the six weeks last past the handsome sum of $300,000. The trade and business of the place is on a scale commensurate with its size and rapid growth. To facilitate this business hundreds of buggies, carriages, hacks, express wagons, a system of street cars, telegraph and telephone--the latter permeating the city and county for 15 and 20 miles--supplemented by ten railroad trains daily, semi-weekly steamers from San Francisco, and sailors innumerable from all parts of the world, representing almost every trade known to ocean commerce, are brought into requisition. Nationally it is a port of entry with its custom house, a military post, signal service and the ubiquitous U.S. mail. Ten churches are doing a vast amount of successful labor in evangelizing work and ebbing back the tide of iniquity flowing to and struggling for supremacy in the place. Educationally the city has praiseworthy facilities for a place so recently entering upon a career of prosperity. A $40,000 public school house overlooking the city and the bay with supplementary buildings elsewhere are a great credit to the city educational board. And finally, San Diego is rapidly becoming a city of beautiful residences and grand business structures, each new building vieing with its neighbor for novelty of design and elaboration of finish. In my next letter I will speak of the probabilities of the Pacific Coast as a health and pleasure resort and refuge from the rigorous winters and summer storms of the Atlantic States, giving to each section the credit its position and advantages merit. A. G. ROCKFELLOW.
Ashland
Tidings, February 4, 1887, page 1The Clay County, Iowa News contains a three-column letter written by Rev. J. P. Coleman, who arrived here recently from Spencer, in that state. It speaks volumes for Josephine County and comes from a citizen of another state who is supposed to judge impartially. Among other things, he says: While in Portland we visited several places of interest. Among others we visited the Chinese quarters. A policeman directed us to a "joss house" where the rites of heathenism are practiced. It was a gloomy, dismal-looking place, a true picture of the dark system of paganism. It is one thing to read the sentimentalisms of certain individuals in regard to the good qualities of the Chinese; but it is another thing to be associated with them, to feel the blighting influence and curse of their abominable practices. Their ideas and customs are purely and essentially antagonistic to our institutions and to every interest dear to an American. As a rule, they are non-producers and non-consumers. They can live where a white man would absolutely starve to death. If they accumulate any money, it is sent back to their native country. They own no property, and pay no taxes, and consequently add nothing to the material, religious and moral interests of the community. We looked over the exhibits of Oregon productions in the office of the secretary of the immigration society. There were grasses, grains and fruits of all kinds and descriptions. We saw as fine a growth of corn as you will find in any of the eastern states, which had been grown in Southern Oregon. But their fruit display excelled anything of the kind I ever saw. Here were apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, grapes, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, etc., the size and flavor of which cannot be excelled. And bear in mind, the finest varieties of these exhibits were produced in the Rogue River country. The stranger passing through this section of the state is impressed with the peculiar adaptability both of the climate and soil as a fruit-growing country. There were also mineral specimens of gold, silver, copper and lead, besides other metals, which indicated great richness. The principal part of these were from Southern Oregon. Placer mining has been the only means of taking out the precious metals heretofore, with the exception of a few instances where quartz mining has been carried on on a small scale; but with the advent of the railroad, affording better facilities for shipping in heavy machinery, quartz mining in the near future will be developed to a greater extent than it has in the past. Arriving at Grants Pass in the night, we were awakened next morning by the singing of birds, which reminded us of the return of spring. We soon learned that it is a common occurrence all the year round. Our first thought when walking out in the morning air, our faces fanned with gentle breezes, soft and balmy as a spring day, "Well, we are at last beyond the reach of blizzards, tornadoes and hurricanes." And what a relief such a reflection brings to one who has faced blizzards and howling winds while crossing the cold, bleak prairies of Iowa. My heart goes out in unstinted sympathy for those who are compelled to endure the intense cold of that country. As I write I can look off in the distance and see the mountains covered with snow, while in the valleys the grass is growing, and cattle are quietly grazing in the fields. Father Hood is out in the garden cultivating his strawberries. He has over 4,000 plants in healthy growing state and 400 fruit trees, besides large quantities of blackberries and other varieties. He anticipated a large yield of fruit this season. A great deal of plowing and seeding has been done since we came here. The weather was delightful during the holidays. We were all invited to Mr. Farr's for Christmas, that is the Iowa people, and of course had an agreeable and delightful time. New Year's we had an invitation to Mr. T. A. Hood's. The day was warm and pleasant, which added greatly to the enjoyment of the occasion. Judging from the quantity and quality of the good things provided by these ladies, Mrs. Farr and Mrs. Hood, they have lost none of their art in culinary matters. The dinners prepared by them amply attest their skill in this department of the home life. Messrs. Scott and Day were well pleased with the country and spoke in glowing terms of the climate. Wish I could describe the climate so that your readers would have a correct appreciation of it. The winters are very similar to your fall weather the kind you often have that has caused you to long for a country where it would last throughout the winter season. Tell your readers we have it here. Of course we have occasional rains, but they are not as disagreeable as many people imagine. During the first four weeks of my stay here, there was one day in which a person would have been prevented from working out of doors on account of the rain. It is a mistaken idea that it rains incessantly throughout the winter months. There are intervals of many bright sunshiny days, fully as warm as your May weather in Iowa. In my next will give you a detailed description of this country, price of lands, etc. If any of my friends desire further information, they can write me at this place, enclosing stamp, and I will endeavor to accommodate them. J.
P. COLEMAN.
Rogue
River Courier, Grants Pass, February 25, 1887, page 1THE PACIFIC COAST.
Having journeyed from Ashland to San Diego, from the northern end of
the golden state to its junction with Mexico, we have seen that it is a
grand country, and that it is making gigantic strides in the race of
civilization (whether mental or moral, artistic or scientific,
mechanical, agricultural or commercial).Its Claims as a Health and Pleasure Resort and Place of Refuge from the Rigorous Winters and Stormy Summers of the Atlantic States. And now it is my purpose to present you with the whole Pacific Coast from the British possessions to the Mexican border as a health and pleasure resort, and refuge for the people of the Atlantic States from the rigorous winters and stormy summers of that country. In order the more forcibly to establish this view it will be necessary for me briefly to refer to the country as it came from the hands of its Maker, as well as to the great progress it is now making in the civilization above referred to. And while I must speak of things as I find them I cannot afford to parade one section as par excellent above another section, believing as I do that the diversified climate and productions of the whole country are all needed to meet the diversified tastes, desires and real wants of the people who are to possess it. This whole territory, then (as bounded above) is under the influence, thermally, of the Pacific Ocean, and derives its mild temperature from the warm water and air currents coming up from the southern ocean, in their various courses, so that its mild climate is not the normal but a modified condition of the latitude, though the normal condition so far controls, comparatively, as to leave California warmer than Oregon and Oregon warmer than Washington. This influence, however, exerts but little force beyond the Sierra and Cascade mountains, and leaves the country east of them climatically in its normal condition, from 20 to 60 degrees colder in winter and from 10 to 30 degrees warmer in summer. The cooler weather of the Pacific side is now (in summer) the result of ocean and mountain influence conjointly. The mist, or vapors, arising from the ocean cools the heated atmosphere in its passage over the waters, and sends it laden with freshness and new life over the plains and up to the mountain tops, where it is again cooled by contact with the higher currents and the eternal snows of the region, and then sent back down the mountains to bless again and make comfortable the region below. And so, alternately, up in the morning and down in the evening, the work of modifying natural conditions and making the region not only tolerable, but comfortable, becomes perpetual. As the result of these modified conditions, we have in our wide field climate to suit almost every variety of fruit, flower and agricultural product grown in the temperate zone, besides an attractive array of those belonging to the tropics and with diversity equal, also, to the requirements of every variety of human constitution, desire and need. But this is not all; we have a soil as rich and varied as the requirements of its products, and those are today the wonder and admiration of the world. Our mines are simply prodigious, and embrace gold, silver, nickel, tin, quicksilver, copper, lead, chrome, iron, coal, oil, graphite, granite and freestone, lime, fireclay, etc. For purposes of commerce and travel we have the Pacific Ocean with its magnificent harbors on the west, and our grand rivers and railroads ramifying the interior in every direction, north, south, east and west. With these natural advantages to our credit, it would seem superfluous to advance other reasons in support of our position, and so I will rest the case and proceed to inquire if the people are really coming. Now we are to remember that there are hundreds of thousands of people in the Atlantic States who are wholly dissatisfied with that country. They are sick of body and sick of mind; sick of cold and sick of heat; sick of the storm cloud, even--the dreaded cyclone is a constant menace and terror to them--and with anxious gaze and longing desires they are looking away from the Fatherland for some haven of repose. Where life may be lengthened (not childhood restored)
To such there comes from the once "far off" sunset land--the rarest and
choicest spot of earth--the glad tidings of the existence of just such
a place, of strong hope for the sick, and immunity for all from cold
and storm, with an abundance of the choicest fruits the world can
produce. And what is better still, the invitation has gone out to them
to come over and help us to possess the promised land. Not to fight and
pour out blood for it--that has already been done--but simply to come
and pay us a small amount of their filthy lucre for an interest in the
rich inheritance. The invitation has been accepted and the people are
already beginning to arrive. We that write and we that read today have
seen the vanguard, but we shall not live to see the rear guard of the
coming hosts.And summer and winter are never deplored; Where life on the mountain or life on the plain Conspire to return them their lost health again; Where labor is honored with fruits of the soil And richly rewarded the people of toil; Where fear of the hurricane never more comes And people dwell safely in peace at their homes. But the influx will not be confined to any particular locality. All along the line from Mexico to the British possessions, from high up in the Sierras and Cascades to the placid waters of the Pacific, wherever the coveted fruits will grow, where the dreaded cyclone never comes and where the rigors of an eastern winter are unknown, there will the anxious millions go. And even today if there had been no preventing cause this country would have been well filled with a prosperous people. A terse writer said a few years ago in writing of California that "if there were no drawbacks to this country there would not be standing room for the people that would come here." But the "drawbacks" were, many of them, imaginary, while the real ones are fast disappearing. With the advent of the railroad began a new order of things. Men of capital, men of enlarged ideas, ambitious and shrewd men, came to the country, saw and were overcome by its possibilities, and the result is new life is everywhere manifest. Magnificent schemes for the development of the country were conceived and crystallized and set at work as if by magic. For purposes of irrigation vast reservoirs are constructed in the mountain regions to catch and store away the winter snows and rains for summer use in the valleys and on the hillsides when it may be needed. The waste places are made oases, and "the deserts to blossom as the rose." This is what foresight supplemented with enterprise and pluck is doing for this end of the country, and what it is doing here it will yet do in your section. You little dream of the possibilities of your country. I could find a score of men in San Diego today to any half dozen of whom you might well afford under your present policy to give half your possessions for their stipulated services in your behalf. They would hastily divide your broad areas into town lots, five, ten, twenty, and forty-acre lots; go to the mountains and construct reservoirs for storing away your snows and rains; survey and dig ditches and send out all over your country in living streams water enough to irrigate every foot of your agricultural and horticultural lands, while you are lying supinely on your backs and deploring the scarcity of the life-giving element. "Store it up in winter for summer use" did you say? Yes, store it up for use when it is needed. How much, think you, of your water runs to waste while you are waiting for it to get out of your way and then mourn over its departure? Ninety-nine one hundredths? Nay, but 999/1000 run to waste every year to swell the great ocean from whence it rises in vapors and flows back upon the carrying zephyrs to again slake the thirst of your parched lands. But instead of being caught up in ditches dug for the purpose and conducted to reservoirs made all along your foothills for timely use it is allowed to collect in washouts and ravines, and so more than half the water of every summer rain goes unbridled and unused to the mother ocean again. It is high time you had an awakening from your Rip Van Winkle slumbers. Go to work and make your country a paradise and you will have no time or occasion to cast disparaging insinuations--rival towns one at another. Your country will soon be all town. You need not call on San Diegans, though, to do this work. You can do it yourselves. And, know ye not that when you make room for the people they will come? Well, they will. The vanguard, as said above, are already at our doors. The iron horse with "rider up" is already moving up and down the track equipped and caparisoned for his part of the work, while the low murmurs of the tides in the distance are but the faint precursors of the great tidal wave of immigration that is to sweep over all this fair land and people it until we shall be ready to cry out, "hold! enough!" 'Tis enough! If you would no longer be laggards in the race, you must not only send out your cards of invitation, but you must send a good bill of fare with them. When you put forth a good bill of fare and make people believe it's a genuine bill, then your hotels will be crowded and your spare lands all sold, and you will have money enough and some to spare for an occasional excursion with wife and babies or with sweethearts "down to the sea," or for a visit to the old friends in the old home, if, indeed, there shall be any of them left there. California, as has been shown, is warmer than Oregon and Washington. But that it can base claims of superiority upon this is an open question. It may be better for me but not so good for you, so long as you are not pierced with cold or in terror of flood and devastating tornado. California has its grand and exhaustless mines; but so also have Oregon and Washington. California has its splendid agricultural districts and so have Oregon and Washington. California has its wonderful fruit record and so have Oregon and Washington. But California has its tropical fruits which Oregon and Washington cannot boast. These, however, have, as an offset, superior apples to those of California and a much wider range of pastoral lands with more extensive forests and so far as yet known immeasurably greater coal fields. And so the parallel presents but little advantage of section one above the other, and while it is not possible for us to be able always to make the proper selection, if you and I have both made a mistake it can be easily corrected by an exchange of places. In twelve months from this writing, Feb. 10, 1887, we can send you in 24 to 48 hours all the oranges, lemons, limes, figs, raisins, olives, etc., you may order, and on return train you can send us value received in your superior apples, or if we do not want the apples at the time we will be glad to take your lumber and coal in exchange. A. G. ROCKFELLOW.
San Diego, Cal., Feb. 10, 1887.Ashland Tidings, March 4, 1887, page 1 Excursion to Ashland.
At
3:30 p.m. on the 16th inst. a party of as jolly excursionists as ever
banded together boarded the southbound freight train for Ashland, the
object being first to fraternize with the good people of that most
beautiful little city, and secondly to attend the musical and
dramatical entertainment at Granite Hall on that evening.
Our party consisted of Prof. H. L. Benson and wife, Hon. S. U. Mitchell and wife, Dr. F. W. Van Dyke and wife, Misses Elva and Myra Wheeler, J. C. Boyd and wife, T. P. Judson and wife, Mrs. W. L. Blackburn and Miss Blanche, Robt. Chanslor, C. K. Chanslor, Sam White, Geo. Kelly, John Kelly, Dr. C. W. Beacom, Morphord John and ye editor. At Medford we were joined by Miss Riddle and H. Wolters. Our general course of travel was along the old military road constructed many years ago by Lieutenant Joe Hooker, the hero of "Lookout Mountain" and many other thrilling adventures on the battlefield during the late unpleasantness. Mr. Boyd, of our party, was a soldier in Hooker's division in that awful struggle. Nor is this all the history in connection with our pleasant journey. Mrs. Boyd, née Miss Boone, is the great-granddaughter of old Daniel Boone, of Colonial history (whose name we first read in our childhood). His daring amid the wild animals and savage redskins was a matter of wonder even in those days of heroism. But to our subject. We glide along airily amid tall pines, black and white oak trees, the last-named festooned with mistletoe of vivid green. We pass abrupt wooded mountains and go through placer gold diggings; we pass a tramway 3300 feet in length, with a rise of five hundred feet from the track where limestone is procured for the Portland market. A little further on and our train runs a calf down and kills it without the jolly company being aware that anything unusual had occurred. Thus far, our road is through "abrupt mountains, deeply wooded with fir, oak, laurel and manzanita, crowned with stupendous rocks, carpeted by yellow moss, girdled with strands of snowy clouds and streaked with waterfalls of perfect whiteness." Rivulets flung off by the jetting rocks bend in arches of alabaster whiteness. They recall the fine conceit of the Spanish poet that "A
brook is the laugh of the mountain."
On, on,
until the upper Rogue
River Valley is reached, where the hills leave us and we get a full
view of the notorious Table Rock, upon which so many eyes have feasted.
It was once the property of the ferocious old chiefs "John"
and "Sam," who possibly sat upon its very brink eating jerked venison
and elk meat, while their squaws were grinding camas and acorns in
their rude mortars down at the river's edge, all of whom have long
since been swept from the face of the earth by the onward march of
civilization, and Uncle Sam's flag is planted above their graves.But we are digressing from our subject. We all note the large orchards recently planted, the many neat dwellings everywhere to be seen, the thrifty towns of Woodville, Central Point (where 23 buildings are under way), Medford and Phoenix. Intelligent faces observe us from every porch and door, and at Medford where we take supper we are scanned close enough to render us almost uncomfortable. Of course so large a crowd without apparent object was the legitimate excuse self-sought, so we all seated ourselves around the tables of the Riddle House and were served with viands good enough for kings and queens, after which we journey on. The sun was now rapidly sinking in the west, presenting some of the rarest specimens of atmospheric beauty that it has ever been our lot to look upon. Exclamations of delight and surprise at the beautiful scenery were heard on every hand. As the sun disappeared behind the scarred and wrinkled summits beyond the green wooded valleys and the purple hills of the horizon, the natural beauty was charmingly rich. Just then attention was called to the reflection of the sun on a snow-capped mountain, which was bright enough to dazzle our very eyes. But we are nearing Ashland, and this running from side to side and from one end of the coach to the other to get a better view of the surrounding beauty will have to cease, for night is fast approaching. We reach the depot about 7 o'clock p.m. and immediate proceed to secure rooms at the hotels, after which we go to the new and spacious hall and secure our tickets for the rendering of one of Shakespeare's old pieces entitled "The Merchant of Venice." During our stay the open-handed people of Ashland extended many evidences of kindly recognition, the first being a pleasant serenade at our hotels by the Ashland brass band. Our party occupied reserved seats to the right of the aisle all in a group, enjoying the play very much as it progressed, especially the "Three Little Maids from School," who were just as "cute" as could be. Ashland may well feel proud that a piece so difficult was so well rendered by home talent. The orchestra was excellent. After the play was concluded the movable seats were put aside, and those who enjoy the giddy dance were regaled until one o'clock, when all of us hied home to Morpheus. A portion of our party returned home on the morning freight, the remainder tarrying until the departure of the regular evening passenger train bound for Portland. Those who remained were so well used during the day that they will not soon forget it, Mrs Willard being among the foremost in her endeavors to pleasantly entertain the visitors. The Tidings in speaking of our company concludes by saying: "It is pleasant to see so many visitors here together, and it is to be hoped a neighborly spirit will be encouraged by our people by a return of the visit and compliment upon the first fitting occasion." Rest assured, brother Leeds, the latchstring hangs out at the door. Rogue River Courier, Grants Pass, March 25, 1887, page 3 OVERLAND TO OREGON.
The gap between Ashland, the southern terminus of the Oregon road, and
Montague,the northern terminus of the California line, is now less than
fifty miles. The company has an immense force at work, and daily the
number of laborers are increased. Last Saturday an employment agency
here received orders from Sisson, Crocker & Co., to secure all the
men, white and Chinese, that were to be had, and send them to the
front. Good weather has set in, and there is every probability that the
gap will be reduced to ten or twelve miles by the middle of June. This
gap will be the summit of the Siskiyous, and stages can make the trip
in two hours. The stage ride would be the feature of the journey, and
few would hesitate to take it. Except, perhaps, the Yosemite Valley, no
better view of the magnificent in nature can be had anywhere on the
coast than from the summit of the Siskiyous. One can see the entire
Rogue River Valley, the Salmon and Scott mountain ranges, and Mount
Shasta, towering nearly three miles high. Whether the company will
build an overland road, pending the construction of the numerous
tunnels, is not known, but so far as tourists are concerned a ride in
Concord coaches is far preferable to a ride through tunnels in a
Pullman.Portland Oregonian. Merced Star, April 7, 1887, page 3 JOAQUIN
MILLER.
He Writes a Letter from Oregon's Southern Edge. The Old Battle Ground of Californians Who Chose to Fight Duels-- Origin of the Name Oregon--Some Absurd Stories About it.
Jacksonville,
Or., April 25.--It is a wild and tumbled and tumultuous region here.
The mountains and the clouds make familiar companionship. The woods on
these mountaintops are tangled with the clouds. They are dense and
deep. You see a long, gray moss swinging from the tall, black fir
trees, not unlike the moss on the cypress trees in the Southern states.
We are about midway between San Francisco and Portland, Or., and about
100 miles inland from the great Pacific Ocean. But that 100 miles is an
almost impenetrable tumble of broken mountains. These mountains are all
set with a dense growth of fir and cedar and pine and tamarack and
spruce. And under these tall and tossing trees, in their tangle of
clouds, is a growth of vines and chaparral that disputes passage even
with the innumerable wild beasts. A more sublimely savage spot is not
to be found on this continent than the mountaintop that serves as a
wall between Oregon and California.
This range of rugged, wood-clad steeps is called the Siskiyou Mountains. This is an Indian word, and bears the mean significance of "Bobtail Horse" mountain. But it is a glorious, grand old eminence despite its pitiful name. The Indians have long since passed away. They fought hard and long and died in battle mostly. Game is so plentiful since the disappearance of the Indians that it is hardly counted any achievement to kill a wagonload of elk, deer and bear. And the more ferocious beasts of a carnivorous nature, such as California lions, panthers, catamounts, and so on, are so numerous that farmers and stock growers whose pretty little homes dot the foothills all along either side of this savage mountain range find great trouble in defending their flocks from their depredations. But now that the railroad has reached here from Oregon, and from California also, and the last spike is about to be driven, the hunter will find this paradise. The brave Roosevelts from New York will find the grizzly here. And maybe the grizzly will find the gallant Roosevelts. I sincerely hope so. This was the old dueling ground for California. I do not think the pastoral Oregonians ever indulged in the luxury of shooting at each at the drop of a hat to any extent. But in the early days, when the line between the two states was established only by a range of mountains, the summit of which could be floated a few miles either way, as suited the convenience of any duelist arrested for murder only, the Californians who acknowledged the "code" found it a first-rate battle ground. And I might dwell long on these absurd encounters here--some of them bloody enough, some of them ridiculous, all of them despicable, but with all this sublimity about us--the black forests, the clouds, the peaceful and fertile valleys far below--who cares for these petty and pitiful duels of long ago? The sooner they are forgotten the better. A few little mossy mounds of stone, some crude inscriptions chiseled in the granite front of the great mountain--these are all that remain to mark the dark and deadly hatred that surely should have found better employment and expression here when all this land was new. And so enough of this. ----
And what is the meaning and origin
of this word and name Oregon? Let me tell you the whole history of it.
For every recent writer has been widely wrong, and it is very important
that we know the true origin of this beautiful name.To begin with, I will notice some of the absurd stories about the root of the name Oregon. The guidebook which my fellow traveler carries, called "The Atlas of the World," gives this: "The name 'Oregon' is derived from the Spanish, and means 'wild thyme,' so called on account of the herb found here by early explorers." Another queer guidebook says: "The word is from the Spanish, and means 'people with big ears.'" But of all remarkable writers on this theme I have yet encountered, and they are very many, I must say that the patriotic Irishman who wrote a pamphlet to prove that the name was given in honor of a countryman of his by the name of O'Ragen is the most remarkable. [None of these etymologies is accepted today.] The true meaning of the word Oregon is "Hear the waters!" And any traveler who will pass up the Columbia River, a little way above Vancouver--now a pleasant little city, but once a great trading post--will see at once the significance of the name. For here the waters literally pour down out of the clouds. They roar and flash and sweep continually. Mount Hood hangs above you on the right as you pass up this grandest of all grand views. When the wind blows sharp and sudden around the summit of this sublime mountain and makes a rift in the clouds, you can see the mountain is literally leaning over you and hanging above you in the clouds. It looks as if it might blow over and fall down in the awful chasm of waters before you. And it is the little rivers, made from melting snow, pitching their foamy waters down out of the clouds into the vast, calm bosom of the Columbia, or Oregon, river, which have given this sweet and significant name to the land. You can hear these waters continually when the wind is favorable all the way down to Vancouver, the old British trading post before referred to. And there can be no doubt at all about the origin of the name as I have stated. For the English nearly always respected the old Spanish names along the Pacific, from Patagonia to Alaska. And I know of no single instance where they changed a name when it had a fitting purpose and meaning. The first time I ever met William Cullen Bryant, more than a dozen years ago, perhaps, and before these new and reckless writers had become quite so numerous, we talked over this subject thoroughly, and I found him even more disgusted than myself at the bad taste and ignorance of the times touching such matters. I am not certain that Mr. Bryant was a thorough Spanish scholar, but as he seemed to know everything, I think he knew the Spanish language. And then, as he spent a winter in Mexico City in the latter part of his life, and I believe had something to do with the great library there, I am pretty well persuaded that he knew all about the Spanish language and the early history of the Spanish discoveries on this coast. But be all that as it may, I implore the people of Oregon, and all writers on this subject, to let the two sweet lines of this learned and most accurate post settle all doubt or dispute forever as to the origin of the name of this noblest young state in the Union. The very root and basis of the name Oregon is briefly this, "Oye-el-agua?" Now, give this to an Indian, or, much the same thing, to an ignorant trapper or fur trader, either British, French or American, and see how naturally and how soon it would forget its Spanish root and round itself into something like its present shape. "Oye-el-agua?" would soon drop the interrogation point. Then it would be shortened to Oye-'l'-guan. From this it is only a step to Oyegan. Then Oregon is in sight. And this is the true origin and the true meaning of this beautiful word: Hear the waters? And while on this subject I may as well add my protest to many others against giving the great Oregon river the meaningless name of Columbia. The true name is Oregon, no matter if one Capt. Gray, of Boston, did sail up this river less than a hundred years ago. Let the lines of Bryant live, and let his testimony remain unimpeached: Where roils the
Oregon,
I know I ought to beg pardon for
dwelling so long on
this and standing thus long on the mountaintop of the edge of this
great young state, but a name, particularly a name so beautiful as
this, is very important. And then let us believe with Bryant that these
old navigators were poets and gave no cheap or unmeaning name to the
great lands which they took fresh from the hand of the creator.And hears no sound save his own dashings. Descending from the top of the great mountain range which divides the two first states on the Pacific Coast, we come to a wide and woodless valley. It is not very rich, and, besides, its long isolation from all seaports and markets of the world has left it much in the background. It is called Rogue River. The origin of this mean name may be easily guessed at. But whatever the stormy nature of the men may have been who gave his name to a very considerable and very beautiful river, the present people are of the most harmless. An act has been passed in the state legislature, declaring that the name is "Gold" River and not "Rogue" River. But, all the same, the people still call it Rogue River. And this new name reminds me that the gold belt does not end with the California line at all. Here, in Oregon, in this wide and wealthy valley, where woolen mills and all sorts of machinery rattle and rave on the banks of the river, we once had nothing at all but stormy and struggling mining camps. And even to this day nearly all the little mountain streams, that come strolling down from out the steep pine woods, are thick with mud and gravel from the work of miners in the mountains. At one time the largest city in Oregon was a mining camp here in this same valley of woolen mills and machinery. ----
And here the greatest battles on all
this western
slope were fought with the Indians, for here it was that the wild man
was found in splendid form. The small, debased savages of California
found no counterpart here. In fact, all the Oregon Indians are still,
and were from the first, a fine race--tall and sturdy, and terrible in
war. Chief
Joseph,
who not long ago led Gens. Howard and Miles such a race when he started
for the frontier of Canada, is a fair example of the Oregon Indian.As the cars dash down Rogue River Valley, nearly all of which is now either a wheat field or a sheep pasture, you can see from the window to the right a very wonderful formation, which has a very wonderful history. It is a broad plateau with basalt walls, lifted many hundred feet in the air straight up from the flat valley surrounding it on all sides, and almost entirely inaccessible. This is called Battle Rock, and here the Indians entrenched themselves for their last desperate death struggle with the whites. [Not true.] When the world pauses long enough to catch its breath in this swift race for place and money, and has time to write and read of the history of the battles here, this wonderful formation on the face of nature will stand out very prominently in history, and, indeed, so will these early people of Oregon, as well as their valiant enemies, the Indians. How little the world knows of all those terrible days when the Indian signal fires of battle blazed from almost every mountaintop for hundreds of miles! Gen. Lane, sometimes called the Marion of he Mexican War--he who was on the ticket with Breckinridge for the Presidency--led the Oregonians in battle here and was badly hit while leading a charge up yonder steep and almost impregnable fortress of nature. At last, after a long and bloody war, the old Indian chief, with his gallant son, were taken prisoners by the Oregonians, and started on a ship to San Francisco to be incarcerated in the military dungeons of Alcatraz. The old chief had but one leg, having recently lost the other in battle, and his son was in irons. [It was the son who lost the leg--later.] But for all that, on the high seas, these two desperate red men rose up at night and captured the ship. However, as they could not manage her and were drifting on the rocks, they gave up the ship to the terrified captain, and finally committed suicide. [This is wildly inaccurate.] Tragedies! Tragedies! Tragedies all along here. This Oregon was one great battlefield more than once, and long before the world either knew or cared very much about this portion of our continent. Looking out of the car windows we see a good number of new houses on the pleasant, grassy hills, flocks of sheep, a great many cattle and horses. Plenty of quail fly all around us. A perfect roar of grouse drumming in the hills is heard, and squirrels are darting up and down nearly every tree. But the most conspicuous creature in all the land, and one that is ever present, is the jackrabbit. He has become not only a nuisance, but a calamity and a curse in Oregon. In some counties here he is slain by thousands, simply for the bounty paid for his ears. ----
All this comes of killing off the
Indians. So long
as the Indians lived, or were permitted to have some part of their
inheritance here, the wild beasts in the hills and the hares or rabbits
in the valleys made no trouble. But now there are large portions of
Oregon that are hardly habitable for the very abundance of good game.
Why, I remember, when a boy, how more than proud I was to bag a rabbit
in this region. Now, as I look out of the car window, I see their big
eyes, their big ears, their supple and pretty brown legs, flashing,
prancing, dancing under every bush of chaparral. They fairly waltz and
dance with delight to see the cars dart by. A little boy, who got in as
a way passenger, told me that they do not waste ammunition on these
big-eared fellows at all, but simply knock them over with clubs. Yet
bear in mind they are delicious food for the best part of the year.
What a paradise for these lazy people!Yes, I say to the homeless stranger far away, "Come and settle here." You can find plenty of land here unclaimed. I do not say that you will find the richest of land close to the railroad really waiting for you. But plenty of pure water, a mild and most healthful climate, plenty of wood--too much wood, in fact--game, as explained before, and grass as green as Erin all the year through for your cows. Bear in mind this is in extreme Southern Oregon. And please bear in mind also that Oregon is a very large state, with climate, soil and temperature of almost all altitudes and latitudes. But for a lazy man, or a man who cares only to hunt and fish and read and rest, I know of no land so entirely delightful and suitable as this spot here among the shiftless people of Southern Oregon, who refuse to wake up even for the scream of the new railroad. The fact is, they have lived so easily and lazily here ever since they drove the Indians out that, like the Mexicans, they have all gone down at the heel. JOAQUIN MILLER.
Oregonian,
Portland, May 1, 1887, page 2
A TRIP TO CENTRAL POINT.
Last Friday we made our first visit to Central Point for nearly a year,
and were considerably surprised to see the amount of improvement that
had occurred there during that time. A number of buildings are now
being erected, and more are in contemplation, so that by the end of the
year this place will be quite pretentious.Central Point has two stores--one kept by Magruder Bros. and the other by Kincaid & Rippey--both of whom seem to be doing a good business. The only hotel in town is well conducted by Mr. and Mrs. W. P. Berry, but who intend to retire in a short time. The fine, commodious hotel building Sims & Kearney are erecting will be quite an addition to the town and will fill a long-felt want. Here may be found one of the neatest and best-stocked drug stores in the valley, owned by Dr. J. Hinkle, who also enjoys a good practice. J. W. Hays and Pankey & Rowe, who do the blacksmithing for a large territory, are located here. Mr. Hays deals largely in agricultural implements, wagons, etc., and has a livery stable besides. The Central Point tin and hardware store is still conducted by J. S. Houck, who has come to stay, and seems encouraged. E. Lewis, who has rented the Pioneer market, keeps the people well supplied with choice meats. Robt. Westrop, besides keeping an orderly saloon, conducts an excellent feed and livery stable. Ed. Catch [?] also keeps a well-regulated saloon. J. DeFlanney and W. C. Engledow, two artistic painters, and Messrs. Pringle, Sims, Kearney, Carson, McDonnell, Morgan, scientific mechanics, are engaged in business here and seem to find plenty of employment. W. A. Owen, deputy revenue collector, has had a neat office built adjoining Magruder's store, and is always glad to meet those who call. There is room here for other branches of business, which will sooner or later be established. Central Point has several handsome residences, prominent among which are those of Geo. W. Cooksey, H. Amy, H. Magruder, W. A. Owen, J. A. Hussey and J. E. Smith. Some more are now being built, and we are informed that others will follow. Democratic Times, Jacksonville, May 6, 1887, page 2 ON THE MISSION IN OREGON.
By Most Rev. Wm. H. Gross D.D. Jacksonville, Oregon, May 9th 1887.
Mr. John Gilmary Shea,Dear Esteemed Sir: Please excuse me for not acknowledging sooner the receipt of "Acts of the first Oregon Council,’" and your letter of April 1st--both were highly prized; please accept my most sincere thanks. I will endeavor to hunt up the documents which you request. The venerable Archbishop Blanchet left behind a mass of interesting notes on his labors in Oregon. There are still living some of his reverend companions of early days. They have a mass of anecdote to relate which always sparkles in a biography. I have endeavored to induce some one of my clergy to write the life of this holy pioneer of religion in our Northwest--while such interesting details may be easily procured. Indeed I would undertake that work myself--but my life is brimful of work. Indeed my missionary training as a Redemptorist has been a providence to fit me for the burdens necessary for my duties in this great wild state. Already I have crossed the mountains several times on the "buckboard"--and traveled over roads whose shocking condition baffles description. I have at times ridden sixty miles on a "buckboard"--and on reaching my destination preached the same evening. Two sermons a day is quite a common occurrence--and often I have preached four and five times in the day. I do not mind all this work--on the contrary, it is my pleasure, God gives me good health--and a robust constitution. I write you these lines in a little room which serves as the sacristy for the small frame church, and is also my bedroom, parlor, and study. A bright fire on the old-fashioned hearth will let you know that my Southern blood has not yet been nurtured up to a thickness requisite for an Oregon spring. The little town of Jacksonville is located in one of the many beautiful valleys of this state. The borders of this valley are fringed with low mountains One great big fellow, however, lifts up his lofty summit above the others, and is covered with perpetual snow. Draped in his great white robe, he looks proudly down on the verdant valley and green mountains below him. I recommend myself and poor diocese to your prayers--and remain Your truly, in Xto. Jesu,
American Catholic Historical Researches 1893, page 158. This letter from the Archives of Riggs Library, Georgetown College. Shea collection autographs, Case 4. WM. H. GROSS, C. SS. R. Archbishop of Oregon. In the beautiful Rogue River Valley, where the eye almost tires looking at the charming, undulating landscape, dotted very sparsely with houses, the ground covered with luxuriant grass and apparently offering unlimited opportunities for the farmer, cattleman or sheepman, it is noticeable that comparatively few cattle or sheep are to be seen. The casual observer, ignorant of the conditions and possibilities, is struck by this. Comparatively little appears to be under cultivation, although it is said much attention is now being paid to the growing of fruit. S. R. Frazier, "First Impressions," Oregonian, Portland, May 19, 1887, page 3
Last Sunday, as the shades of evening were falling behind stately hills
and over lovely dales, a company was made up for a handcar
excursion up the Rogue River from that nestled little hamlet, Gold
Hill. A. J. Barlow of the Barlow Hotel was master of ceremonies, the
balance of the company consisting of Mrs. Barlow, Mrs. Sampson, Sr.,
Mrs. Sampson, Jr., and son, Misses Julia Woods, Ada Emerick, Nellie
Barlow and little Dotta, W. P. Jacoby (postmaster), Wm. Stuart and the
writer. The ladies being seated on the platform, the masculine gender
proceeded to pull up a grade 60 feet to the mile for a point
six miles
distant from whence we could see the celebrated Table Rock standing out
in all its grandeur, a sublime relic of the master hand of creation.
"On
and up, where nature's heart
Mt.
McLoughlin gray and glum looks down upon us as much as to say, "you
never come to see me." Near the end of our journey, we passed out of
the richest iron ore in the world into a granite formation, passing
over the line which is as marked as the carpenter's scribe on a board.
We passed picturesque woods, sharp curves near the mad waters of a
turbulent stream lashing itself into foam; drank ice-cold spring water
and picked bouquets of wildflowers, but we did not sweat, for the
thermometer was not above 100. The master at last announces that we
have "gone far enough" and we turn back. The grade is steep and the car
almost runs itself. We are requested to "all sit down," which most of
us did; the two Mrs. Sampsons and Mrs. Barlow were sitting in front,
their feet almost touching the ties. On we go at a rapid speed, the
grain on every hand rustling in the breeze, the round outlines of the
hilltops lying against the clear horizon like huge wooden buttons on an
overgrown coat on whose broad sides the oak, fir and pine interlock,
and in whose branches the anxious bird watches its nest that we do not
approach too near. As darkness steals upon us, a peculiar feeling of
safety lurks in our mind, and we think of the fierce and ferocious
redskins who used to tread these very paths, the thought leading us off
into a deep reverie, when quick as a flash the feet of the ladies in
front are struck and a startling sound like the rattling of ten
thousand steel chains rings out upon the still air, producing much
terror in our company. We have run over one extremely large
rattlesnake--possibly two. A few minutes later we are at home again,
fully satisfied with the pleasures and excitement of the trip. Beats strongly amid the hill" "Local and Personal," Rogue River Courier, Grants Pass, June 3, 1887, page 3 SOUTHERN OREGON
The object of this article is to call the attention of immigrants and
those who contemplate a chance of residence to the special advantages
offered by the valley of the Rogue River in Southern Oregon. It is not
intended as a "boomer," and it is no part of its design to hold out any
false inducements in order to draw any person away from home where he
is already doing well, and where he is measurably satisfied with his
present condition. At the same time we cannot overlook the fact that
thousands of persons are already on the way, or will be with the
opening of spring, to the Pacific Coast; and thousands of others are
seriously contemplating a removal to some portion of the vast domain
lying west of the Rocky Mountains. The states of California and Oregon
and the territory Washington form within themselves a great empire with
a sea coast of about two thousand miles, and embracing probably a
greater variety of topography, soil, climate and productions than can
be found within the same extent of country anywhere on the earth's
surface. To know just where in this vast empire is the particular
combination of advantages best suited to his requirements is the
problem which confronts the intending immigrant. No section is without
its advantages. and none without its disadvantages. The perfect
country, where every day in the year is one of absolute comfort, where
nobody is ever very sick and nothing is found to interfere with the
pleasure and comfort of the fortunate inhabitants, is not to be found
in any section of America that has as yet been open for settlement. The
man who is in search of Utopia need not waste any time in coming to
Oregon.JACKSON COUNTY. A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF ITS Location, Climate, Soil and Resources; Its Valleys and Mountains, and its Attractions for the Tourist and Immigrant. (Compiled and Revised from Previous Descriptions.) LOCATION.
Jackson County lies in the extreme southern end of Oregon, bordering on
the California line, and is hemmed in between the Cascade Mountains on
the east and those of the Coast Range on the west, the Rogue River
mountains on the north and the Siskiyous on the south, all of which
occupy a portion of the 2,800 square miles embraced within its
territory. Surrounded by those mountain ranges is the thickly settled
portion of the country, the beautiful Rogue River Valley. The valley
proper is about forty miles long by twenty wide, though sometimes the
name is made to embrace the whole watershed of that turbulent stream.
The mountains are heavily timbered and rich in minerals; the foothills
afford splendid grazing for cattle and sheep, and their special
adaptation to viticulture and the growth of certain kinds of fruit is
now being recognized; the valley lands produce cereals, hay and
vegetables in abundance, and river bottoms fruit of unsurpassed
excellence. In the diversity of its products and resources, Jackson
County is superior to any in the state, and needs but the railroad
advantages soon to begin to take a front rank in wealth and importance.CLIMATE.
One of the most important considerations to the home-seeker is the
matter of climate. In this respect the Rogue River country is by far
the most favored portion of Oregon, if indeed it will not rank with any
region on the Pacific Coast. Owing to its sheltered location the
climate is free from extremes of any description. Two ranges of
mountains, covered with timber, separate it from the rainy winters of
the Willamette. In fact the climate is a mean between that of Western
Oregon and that of California, being not so wet as the one nor so dry
as the other. The summers are as near perfect as they can be found
anywhere. There are very few days when the heat is oppressive, and the
nights invariably furnish refreshing sleep, being always cool and
comfortable. Even when the thermometer during the middle of the day
indicates ninety in the shade the heat is no more oppressive that in
the East at eighty, owing to the peculiar dryness and purity of the
atmosphere, the altitude of the valley being from 1500 to 2000 feet
above the sea level. Occasional showers during most of the summer keep
the soil from getting as dry and parched as in the greater portion of
California. The autumns are usually delightful.One very prominent characteristic of the weather in the valley, at any season of the year, is its remarkable evenness. Day after day, observations taken at the same hour will show a variation of scarcely a single degree. The extreme limit of the thermometer in summer is 100°, though it seldom exceeds 90°, while in winter it seldom sinks as low as 10°, the average for the winter months being about 40° and in the summer about 70°. Snow falls occasionally to the depth of three or four inches but rapidly disappears, while the ice never exceeds two inches in thickness and forms but a few times during the season. In the mountains, of course, there are more snow and ice, and upon this fact the miners rely for a supply of water for their business. It will thus be seen that in both valley and mountain nature has provided just the climatic conditions required by the two great industries of the county, agriculture and mining. To the eastern man especially, who desires in summer a warm climate without the excessive heat of his native state, and in winter a clear, bracing atmosphere unaccompanied by extreme cold and exemption from continuous snow and rain, Rogue River Valley presents attractions peculiarly inviting. It is beyond question the Paradise of Oregon. Storms, tornadoes and cyclones which visit other countries and scatter desolation and death in their track are here unknown. Spring and summer, autumn and winter, seed time and harvest come and go in regular succession, but the transition from one to the other is so gradual that one fails to note the end of one, or the beginning of the other. SOIL.
There is quite a variety of soil in the valley. Along the western slope
and on the foothills the soil is a decomposed granite. A portion of the
valley proper is composed of the same soil. A part of it is more of a
sandy loam, and a portion of it, together with a part of the eastern
slope, is a strong adobe soil. This last is decidedly sticky in the
rainy season. It is the strongest soil in the valley, but needs to be
worked at the right time. It seems to be almost inexhaustible, and will
yield fine crops of grain year after year without the use of any
fertilizer. The granite soil is specially adapted to fruit growing, and
when properly manured is excellent for garden purposes. Near the center
of the valley is a tract about six miles square called "The Desert." It
is composed of a gravelly loam, with quantities of small rock in the
bottoms. It is covered with grass in the early spring, but otherwise is
destitute of vegetation. Experiments recently made seem to indicate
that it is adapted to fruit growing, and it will probably be utilized
sooner or later for that purpose.PRODUCTS.
Wheat will doubtless continue to be one of the principal products of
the Rogue River Valley for some years to come. Forty bushels to the
acre is by no means an uncommon yield, and the berry is usually of
superior quality. Anything like a failure of crops has never been known
since the valley was settled.This is the only section of the North Pacific country where corn can be raised with any degree of success. Here the crop is usually a good one, although not equal in the yield per acre to that of the corn-growing regions of Illinois or Iowa. Elsewhere in Oregon and Washington the nights are too cool for the successful cultivation of this grain. Oats and other small grains are usually a good crop. But little timothy has been raised so far, and that principally along the creek bottoms. Alfalfa is grown to some extent, and in some locations does well. A large portion of the hay is made from wheat or oats cut green. The adaptability of the valley to the growth of tame grass is still an open question. The rapidly advancing price of land will probably tend to discourage stock raising, except for thoroughbreds. Farmers having a range upon the hills can raise cattle to advantage, but most of the large ranges are now east of the mountains. Hogs pay well and find a ready market, indeed bacon is regularly brought into Oregon from the Eastern states in order to supply the demand. The culture of hops is becoming a prominent industry on this coast, and there is no reason why they should not thrive in this valley. Within the past two or three years several hop yards have been planted in the valley, and the yield, both in quantity and quality, is reported as first-class. Very limited experiments indicate that sweet potatoes and peanuts will do well on the granite soil. In fact the capabilities of the valley have not been half tested as yet. FRUIT GROWING.
There seems to be no reason to doubt that the leading industry of the
Rogue River Valley in the near future will be fruit raising. All the
fruits of the temperate zone grow here in such perfection as they are
never seen east of the Rockies. Apples, pears, peaches, plums, prunes,
apricots, cherries, nectarines, grapes and all the small fruits seem to
be to the manor born. Almond trees also flourish, and English walnuts
have been raised to a very limited extent. Trees have been known to
bear fruit at the early age of three years from the seed, and in a few
instances in two years.The fruit of this valley has long been noted for its abundance and perfection. A wormy apple or plum or cherry cannot be found, and any kind of fruit can be eaten in the dark with impunity. Apples keep easily until the next crop begins to ripen, and there is no trouble in having good fresh fruit every day in the year. The curculio and even the potato bug are entire strangers to this region, and it is earnestly hoped that they will always remain so. Strawberries 10 and 11 inches in circumference were produced in Ashland last season, and peaches 13 inches or more in circumference and weighing as many ounces were not uncommon. One secret of the perfection of the fruit and its keeping properties is doubtless the purity and dryness of the atmosphere. This seems to be just as essential to the growth of perfect fruit, as it is to the healthfulness of mankind. It is confidently anticipated that the fruit growers of Southern Oregon will never be without a market, so soon as fruit enough is raised to give the valley distinction as a fruit region. The greater part of Oregon and Washington, together with Idaho, Montana and Dakota, are not adapted to fruit raising, and must always look this way for supply. Canneries will doubtless be established in the valley as the increase in the production of the fruit will warrant such a move, and they will furnish a market for all the surplus of the valley. The business is yet in its infancy, and farmers have yet to ascertain what varieties are best adapted to the climate, what will pay the best and what method of cultivation are to be the most successful. Every foot of land in the valley and on the hills will raise good fruit when properly cared for, and the experience of California fruit growers would lead to the conclusion that ten acres of land set out with peaches, prunes and other fruits, and taken care of, will in a very few years furnish a good income for the support of a family. As a rule, no country is more prosperous, more beautiful in appearance, and filled with more cultivated comfortable homes than one devoted to horticulture. IRRIGATION.
So far as all general crops are concerned, irrigation is not practiced,
nor is it required or at all necessary. But with the aid of water for
irrigation timothy, alfalfa and other tame grasses may be grown to the
greatest perfection. Gardeners and persons engaged in raising berries
and other small fruits generally resort to irrigation in order to
prolong the season and produce several crops from the same piece of
land. There is in different sections of the country a peculiar
formation of land, which is here called "desert land," which sends up a
fair growth of grass early in the spring but becomes dry in summer.
There is also along the sloping hillsides and tablelands a granite soil
containing but little vegetable mold. The cultivation of either of
these soils is not profitable without irrigation; but with the stimulus
given them by the application of water, they became very productive and
yield bountifully any crop the husbandman may desire. It is just to
state that while irrigation is valuable in growing small fruits and
gardens as a special industry, it is not required on the farm in order
to raise vegetables or fruits for family use. There is scarcely a
farmer in the county who cannot, with a reasonable degree of industry,
raise vegetables, cherries, all his prunes, grapes, plums, peaches,
apples, &c., without the aid of irrigation.MANUFACTURES.
The unlimited water power afforded by the streams of Jackson County
will rival those of the New England states. Already the saw-mills,
flouring mills and quartz mills are doing quite an extensive business.
The woolen factory at Ashland has been running successfully for a
number of years, and its goods have an enviable reputation throughout
the whole Pacific Coast. It was founded on the theory that it was
cheaper to ship the manufactured article than the raw wool, and the
success of the undertaking has demonstrated its correctness. The mill
is large, is operated by a splendid water power, is fitted up with the
most approved of modern machinery, and is in every way capable of
turning out the finest quality of goods at a minimum cost. Several
excellent flouring mills are in operation at Ashland, Phoenix and
Jacksonville, supplying the whole of Southern Oregon with a superior
quality of flour, and no doubt the bulk of the surplus wheat of this
region will, ere long, be shipped abroad in the form of flour. The new
roller process machinery has lately been put in the mill at Ashland and
gives entire satisfaction.Saw and planing mills produce all the rough and finished lumber needed in that section, which is by no means a small quantity. The mountains are covered with dense forests of fir, yellow pine, while black and white oak, ash, laurel and maple grow in abundance on the foothills, in the valley and along the numerous streams. Extensive experiments have been made the past few years in the culture of sugar cane, and both soil and climate have been found admirably adapted to it. It is probable, then, that the manufacture of sugar will be embarked in at no distant day. Splendid water power exists in numerous localities very advantageously situated for manufacturing, and it is but a matter of time when much more of it will be utilized than at present. MINERALS.
The Southern Oregon mines are placers and lodes, producing gold with a
very little silver. The present yield of placer claims is about
$200,000 per annum as an average, the sum varying according to the
rainfall, which makes work possible. The total product of placer
washing has been perhaps $30,000,000, including deep placer or
hydraulic diggings, and shallow or surface diggings, and the auriferous
sands of the seashore. The number of placer miners in the five counties
of Jackson, Josephine, Curry, Coos and Douglas has remained tolerably
uniform for several years and must amount to 700 or thereabouts,
including Chinese. A good many of the whites are settled permanently in
the vicinity of their claims, and quite a large proportion of them are
married and have families. The number of people dependent upon placer
mining for a livelihood is probably 2500. The most of these reside in
Jackson and Josephine counties, which are nearly equally divided as to
their mining population. Curry comes next, Douglas next, and Coos last
in importance.SCENERY.
The diversity of mountain and valley scenery in Jackson County is
pleasing in the extreme. After a long ride on the steep mountain
grades, through the dense forest and along deep and rocky canyons, it
is like a glimpse of Paradise to come suddenly upon the summit of ridge
commanding a view of the rolling hills, plains and green-fringed
streams of the valley. And from the valley itself a lovely picture is
formed by the encircling walls of mountain, the graceful pines
spreading their mantle over the very summits, save where here and there
some rocky peak thrusts up its barren head, often crowned with a wreath
of snow. On the east Mt. Pitt is always an object of interest to the
tourist, covered as it is for most of the year with snow. Table Rock
will also be pointed out, being remarkable for its flat top which is
said to have been at one time an Indian fortification. It is a large
rocky eminence with precipitous walls on three sides, and can only be
approached from the rear. If the traveler continues on into Northern
California he will find the Siskiyou Mountains to abound in wild
picturesque views, among which is Mt. Shasta, clad in eternal snow from
base to summit and without doubt the most magnificent mountain on the
Pacific Coast, if not on the continent. Rogue River Falls and canyon
with Bridal Veil Falls is a most interesting place for the tourist to
visit. Hole in the Ground, Pilot Rock, Lake of the Woods, and Anne's
Canyon are places that are seldom equaled in beauty of scenery, but for
variety and grandeur we would refer the tourist toCRATER LAKE.
The greatest curiosity of this region and one of the greatest of the
whole Northwest is Crater Lake, in the very summit of the Cascades,
seventy-five miles northeast of Ashland. Its remoteness from the usual
routes of travel has kept it in comparative seclusion; but more are
attracted hither yearly, and it will, in the future, be one of the
objects regularly visited by tourists in this region. It has been
variously known as Blue Lake, Deep Lake and Lake Majesty, but the more
appropriate title it now bears will no doubt remain with it forever. In
approaching, the visitor suddenly finds himself upon the edge of a
tremendous precipice and looking across a wide stretch of water that
lies far beneath. The shores vary from 1,500 to 3,000 feet in height.
To be critical, there is no shore, for only at one point can a
sure-footed person descend the cliff to the lake level, and when there
the presence of a few boulders and some fallen debris is all that
indicates a shore. The waters are wide, deep and silent. It is seldom
that a breeze disturbs them, but at moments a weird breath moves softly
along and breaks the calm surface into ripples. Looking across from the
surrounding wall the sky is seen so perfectly reflected in the water
that were it not for the rocky margin of the lake it would be
impossible to discern the line of division. The circumference is more
than twenty miles, and the altitude of its surface as great as the
summit of the pass over the mountains. On the outside the steep walls
shelve off into mountain ridges, wooded to the top; on the inside they
stand almost perpendicular, looking down forever on the captive sea.In the early years, before the wide scope of country to the east was covered up with lava and ashes, there must have stood here one of the grandest mountains of the world. How great this immense volcano must have been can be imagined when it is realized that the walls that now stand from 7,500 to 9,000 feet high are only the shell of the mountain as it once existed. With a base twenty miles in circumference, at a height of 7,000 feet, what must have been the altitude of the one that was reared above it? Beside it Hood, Shasta and Tacoma would hide their diminished heads. That such a mountain once stood here as an active volcano cannot be doubted. The country to the east for many square miles is buried beneath ashes, pumice and volcanic scoria. To the terrible convulsions of nature, those miles of desolation, those rocky walls and this vast crater bear witness. In the midst of the lake rises a perfect but extinct volcano, at least 600 feet in height, its sides fringed with a stunted growth of hemlock. The lava flowing from this has made an island in the lake at least two miles long. The cone has a dish-like depression in its apex, which shows where once its crater was, and into which one can look from a position on the bluffs above. The period of the first great eruption was probably followed by a season of rest and then a second eruption, during which this small cone was formed by the final effort of the expiring forces. Burning lava flowed fiercely down its sides, where now the dwarfed hemlock has gained a precarious foothold and seeks to hide its ugliness beneath a mantle of vegetation. LIVESTOCK.
The foothills of Jackson County furnish grazing for sheep of the finest
quality, and the best strains of fine Merinos have been introduced into
the county. So much attention has been paid to improving the sheep of
this region that Southern Oregon wool is rated higher in the market
than that from the Willamette Valley. About 30,000 are kept, chiefly in
small bands, by the ranchers. About 10,000 beef cattle graze on the
hills, and many fine stock, including Jerseys, Herefords, Durhams,
etc., are kept. Horses, too, are made a specialty by some of the
farmers. Among the leading importers and breeders of fine horses and
cattle is Mr. W. C. Myer, who makes a specialty of Percherons, Shetland
ponies and Jersey cattle. The visitor to Jackson County should not fail
to visit this farm and know for himself that Southern Oregon is taking
the lead in the introduction of fine stock to this comparatively new
country. In the matter of improving the blood of their animals, the
stock men of this region have shown commendable enterprise, and are
reaping their reward in the reputation and increased value of the
animals, for Rogue River Valley has the reputation of producing the
finest horses of Oregon.DAIRY PRODUCTS.
The butter and cheese of this region have an enviable reputation
wherever they are known. The fine breeds of dairy cattle, the climate,
grass, water, etc., all combine to produce a superior quality of butter
and cheese. With the facilities for cheap shipment of these articles
offered by the railroad there will, beyond question, be a great
increase in dairy products and a new source of wealth opened to the
farmers. The market in Portland for butter, cheese and eggs is high and
permanent, and the old and new farmers of the valley will find it quite
profitable to supply the required products.THE PEOPLE.
Jackson County contains a population of about twelve thousand. It is
estimated that one-fourth of this number have arrived here within the
last five years. Many of the first settlers came from Missouri and
Kentucky. A large portion of the pioneers were brought here in the
first place in search of gold. The proportion of foreign-born
inhabitants is very small. Ohio, Iowa, Kansas and Minnesota are
contributing largely to the present influx, and the prospect is good
for large delegations from Dakota of those who have tired of the hard
winters in that region. Letters of inquiry are coming from every state
in the Union, and there is certain to be a large immigration the coming
season. A current is now setting in from California, which bids fair to
become a flood tide as soon as the railroad shall be completed to that
state. Many Californians who visited the valley during last summer and
fall were astonished at the display of fruit, and fully admitted the
superiority of this valley to California for fruit growing. In fact the
Golden State is expected to furnish a fine market for Rogue River
apples as soon as through connection is had with San Francisco. This
will soon be, as work is being pushed onward as rapidly as possible,
and the gap is at this present writing only about 20 miles in width.TOWNS.
The leading town of the valley and of Southern Oregon is Ashland. It is
the present terminus of the Oregon & California railroad, is 340
miles distant from Portland, the other terminus. It is very
picturesquely located on Ashland Creek near its confluence with Bear
Creek and about midway between the head of Bear Creek valley and its
junction with the Rogue River Valley proper. It has a background of
high hills covered with fir and pines. Ashland Creek furnishes
excellent water power which is utilized by a woolen mill, two flouring
mills, two planing mills and a sawmill. The stream also furnishes
excellent water for the use of inhabitants, coming as it does straight
from the ever-present snow of a mountain about ten miles away. The fall
is so rapid that with a comparatively small expense ample pressure has
been secured for an excellent fire protection. Ashland enjoys the
reputation of being the prettiest town in Oregon, and the strangers
visiting the place during the spring and summer months cannot fail to
be favorably impressed with its numerous cottages embowered in fruit
trees and flowers. The streets are some of them narrow and have a
delightful irregularity, giving the town a decidedly romantic and
unique appearance. The population is about 1600. Ashland is the base of
supplies for the extensive stock ranges east of the Cascades and, with
the development of this country, cannot fail to make a thriving city.
The scenery in the vicinity is very fine. The completion of the
railroad to California will make an all rail line from San Francisco to
Portland that will be one of the most important railroad lines on the
coast. Ashland has two good school buildings, one of them just
completed. Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist and Dunkard churches. There
are in the vicinity a number of very fine mineral springs, both sulfur
and soda. A daily stage line connects the railroad at Ashland with the
northern end of the California & Oregon railroad twenty miles
distant.Ashland Tidings, June 3, 1887, page 1 THE CITY OF ASHLAND.
An Oregonian
representative had the pleasure of spending several days during the
latter part of January at Ashland, a thriving little city in Southern
Oregon, located in the far-famed Rogue River Valley, and in Jackson
County. All of the counties of Southern Oregon have their peculiar
advantages, and in any of them the settler can find a good home and
bountiful returns for his labors; but there are superior advantages and
attractions in Jackson County which make it a young paradise. It is
located in the extreme southern portion of the state and is hemmed in
by the Cascade Mountains on the east, the Coast Range on the west, the
Siskiyou Range on the south, and the Rogue River range on the north,
forming the watersheds which supply the waters of Rogue River and its
various tributaries, conditions to which this famed valley owes its
beauty and almost tropical fertility. The valley proper is about
forty-five miles in length, and from ten to twenty-five miles in width.
But into this valley open several smaller ones, all of which are
included under the general name of Rogue River Valley. It is said that
the river owes its name to the roguish, thieving and quarrelsome
propensities of the Indians who were so fortunate as to have pitched
their wigwams in this favored place.And the Famous Rogue River Valley. The valley has been settled for thirty years, but owing to its complete isolation has made but slow progress. However, many pleasant homes may be found here, and the greater portion of the valley is under cultivation. The surface of the country is comparatively level, gradually sloping on all sides towards the foothills, where it is more broken and generally uncultivated. The general appearance of the country is pleasing. It is dotted here and there by little groves of short, spreading oaks that resemble so many old orchards, and add very much to the picturesqueness of the valley. On the hills firs and small pines are mingled with the oak, and the intervening ground is covered with manzanita, chaparral and other species of brush. Rogue River is a rapid, rocky stream, and runs near the northern boundary of the valley. Bear Creek, Applegate and Butte creeks are tributaries of the main stream. The climate is almost perfection. The winters are very mild and the summers cool and pleasant, and the rainfall more evenly distributed throughout the year than in most of the coast country. Before the era of railroads agricultural and horticultural ventures were necessarily limited, but recently the farmers with their increased numbers and advantages have begun to launch out, and no one is more surprised than the "old Oregonian" himself at the wonderful capabilities of the soil. Wheat, oats, barley, corn, rye, potatoes, both Irish and sweet, and all kinds of vegetables are produced in the greatest abundance. And judging from present indications it is more than probable that in the near future the Rogue River Valley and adjacent foothills will become one vast fruit garden. Men who have interests in Southern California frankly confess in visiting this section that in point of soil and climate the Rogue River Valley carries off the prize. Apples, sometimes of enormous size, and always perfect in every respect, are here produced in the greatest abundance. Peaches of the choicest kinds are grown with little care and expense. Pears, prunes, apricots, nectarines, plums, cherries, grapes, raspberries, strawberries, etc., grow so abundantly as to give promise of handsome profits to the fruit-growers. Almonds, English walnuts, black walnuts, and chestnuts also thrive here. To encourage fruit-growing, the Oregon & California Railroad have made special rates on fruit to Portland. The following are the rates fixed for this season: 30 cents per hundred by the carload; 40 cents in quantities less than a carload. Stock-raising and wool-growing are profitable industries throughout the valley, the mild climate and abundance of natural pasturage near at hand making it possible to produce fine stock at little expense. THE CITY OF ASHLAND
is
located at the southern terminus of the Oregon & California
Railroad and near the head of the Bear Creek arm of the Rogue River
Valley, being 315 miles from Portland and about twenty miles from the
California line. The present population is estimated at 1600 and is
rapidly increasing. The business establishments may be generally
summarized as follows: Five general merchandise stores, four groceries
and provisions, three hardware and tinware, two drugs and jewelry, two
furniture, three millinery, two planing mills, one woolen mill, one
bank, one photograph gallery, one second-hand store, five hotels, two
agricultural implements, two variety stores, two meat markets, four
blacksmith and wagon shops, five physicians, three lawyers, three real
estate agents. There is a free reading room well supplied, and four
churches--Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist and Dunkard; and one weekly
newspaper. There are two public schools, one of the buildings for which
was completed only a few weeks ago at a cost of $4000, besides the
state normal school.LEADING BUSINESS ESTABLISHMENTS.
The Ashland woolen mills is quite an extensive establishment, employing
from thirty to thirty-five people, using over 200,000 pounds of wool
per year and turning out about $50,000 worth of flannels, blankets,
yarns, socks, etc., annually. The concern is operated by a company and
is under the management of W. H. Atkinson.The Bank of Ashland is a solid institution with a capital stock of $50,000, with W. H. Atkinson president and E. V. Carter cashier, doing a general banking business. J. M. McCall is proprietor of the old Ashland store and is one of the pioneer merchants and leading business men of the place. He deals in general merchandise of all kinds, and is also interested in various manufacturing and other enterprises. G. F. Billings, the enterprising real estate agent, has a fine line of city and county property for sale at reasonable prices. Mr. B. is not one of your "booming" land agents, but tries in giving the advantages of Rogue River Valley to underestimate, instead of overestimating its advantages. Having resided in the county for years, one can easily find out his business reputation. He has the agency for some of the best insurance companies represented on this coast. George W. Stephenson is a stock dealer, and also owns a large livery and sale stable. FINE BLOODED STOCK.
One mile north of Ashland is the farm of W. C. Myer, who has handled
purebred stock for many years and whose numerous customers have been
more than satisfied with stock bought of him. At present he has one of
the best studs of horses to be found in the United States. As draft
horses he finds there are no equals to the Percheron family, combining,
as they do, size, action, form, docility, and finding ready buyers at
good prices. His Arabian Boy needs only to be seen to be admired. In
striking contrast to these large Percherons are the Shetland ponies--a
great favorite with all children. Doubtless Mr. Myer has the finest
herd of Jerseys (all A.J.C.C.H.R.) on the Pacific Coast. As a family
cow the Jersey has no equal. Mr. M. bases his success on three things:
Extra quality of stock, low prices and representing, when selling, each
animal's true merits.--Oregonian.Ashland Tidings, June 3, 1887, page 2 The first half of this article was printed in the Oregonian two years earlier, on February 2, 1885, page 3. An Immigrant's View of Rogue River Valley.
EDITOR TIDINGS:
In my travels over Oregon nowhere have I seen a more beautiful or more
fertile valley than Rogue River Valley. Those who are seeking homes in
Oregon would do well to visit Rogue River. When on my way from Ashland
to the Klamath River I paused to rest on the summit of the Siskiyou
Mountain. I could see Mt. Scott and Mt. Shasta towering in the clouds
clothed in their white robes. In the distance I could hear the
thundering reports of the explosives, used in the construction of the
railroad now building to connect California with Oregon. The sacred
stillness of my surroundings and the beauties of nature caused me to
reflect, and ask myself where have I seen a better country than Oregon?
Answer, nowhere. Where can I find a better country than Oregon? Answer,
I don't know.When at Roseburg and other towns north I was told that Rogue River Valley was a very small place and that there was very little farming land. What was my surprise when I beheld thousands of acres of the finest farming land, dotted over with handsome dwellings, large orchards, vineyards, and a variety of fruit that I did not see in any other part of Oregon. In the past immigrants and tourists had to come through the Willamette and Umpqua valleys before they could reach Southern Oregon. The common cry along the route of travel was: "Oh, what do you want to go to Rogue River for? Jackson County is all mountains, and the people make a living by hunting deer for their hides." In future Jackson County and Southern Oregon will have an equal show, as the tide of travel will come into Oregon by the way of California. The general impression among the officers and employees of the California & Oregon Railroad was that the vile dens of infamy and gambling that are flourishing under the loose laws of the state of California would not be tolerated under the just and stringent laws of the state of Oregon. On the summit there were seven gin mills, 60 professional Chinese gamblers who play tan, faro and other games of chance openly with their American friends, and white women of the lowest kind vie with Chinese and Indian women in their nefarious calling and for four miles south the stage road is lined with gin mills with and without license. Why don't the authorities send an officer this way occasionally? J. CURRAN, late of Arkansas.
Ashland
Tidings, June 17, 1887, page 2THE NORTH
The California and Oregon, having emerged from the cheerless plains of
the Shasta and Klamath valleys, begins to ascend at its late terminus,
Hornbrook, into the Siskiyou Mountains. The wild and romantic scenery
which has already caused Shasta and its immediate vicinity to leap to
first place as a tourist's resort extends but four miles into its
surrounding plains. Edgewood, Montague and Hornbrook are prosaic
boroughs to be the centers of manufacturing districts, and their
baldness is rendered more painfully conspicuous by reason of the
supreme beauty by which they are surrounded. The Klamath River, crossed
at Hornbrook, possesses as few elements of the romantic as an
irrigating creek. One only notices while crossing it the rapidity and
force of its current. Hornbrook, which ought really to be called
Henley, for it is just opposite the town of that name, is the first
station in the Siskiyous. It stands at the mouth of a little gorge,
separated from the town by a little creek, whose waters have been
rendered turgid by the hydraulic mining. Henley, whose glory departed
with the decay of the large mining interests of which it was the
center, isAlong the Route of the California and Oregon Railroad. Summer Scenes in the Siskiyous and at the Base of Mount Shasta. Cole's, the Terminus of the Road--The Villages That Lie in the Great Northern Valleys--A New Mecca for Tourists. AS PRETTY A LITTLE VILLAGE
as
one could desire to pass a summer's evening in. Its cottages and
orchards are scattered along the slopes of those very mountains on
whose mineral treasures its life once depended. A quaint old inn half
hidden in trailing willows, a long trough full of water attesting also
its importance as a one-time stopping place for the Yreka stages, a
little church with a steeple rising from a grove of apple trees, half a
dozen shops, whose raison d'etre is not apparent, and you have Henley
of today, a semi-agricultural neighborhood on the Klamath River. It is
thus with numberless other little mining centers throughout California
in the Sierras and in the Coast Range, as well as in the Siskiyous.
From Hornbrook the road begins to ascend to what is known as the Bailey
Hill summit. The ground slopes suddenly, and consequently the location
of an easy grade was beset with many difficulties. The track winds
serpent-like close under the brow of the hills, finally emerging
through a great cut into the Cottonwood Valley, justly considered as
only secondary to Shasta for picturesque loveliness. It is really a
huge valley surrounded on all sides by a great ridge of forest-clad
hills culminating on one side in the huge peak known as "Ashland
Butte," and on the other in "Pilot Rock," a curiously shaped summit
which forms a landmark for valleys around. Broken up into miniature
valleys by two ranges of foothills, it is bisected by a limpid little
creek embowered in a thick grove of gigantic cottonwood trees, whose
delicious green foliage and graceful shades have given the valley its
name. Shasta, too, looms up far above the horizon in the west, framed
by a great break in the ranges. Its huge form gathers an additional
sublimity seen through the media of thickly wooded mountains, and
indeed this whole valley with its congregation of snowy peaks and
landmarks, its forest-clad slopes, its huge canyons and, above all, its
beautiful little rivulet emerging here and there in meadows of
delicious verdancy from the cottonwoods possesses an absorbing and
delightful charm.COLE'S, THE PRESENT TERMINUS
of
the road, has long been one of the stopping places of the Yreka stage
line, and is about 200 yards from the Oregon boundary line. The
cleanliness of the house, as well as the beauty of its surroundings,
are in singular contrast to many of the other stations along the line.
Built originally for a farmhouse, with gabled roofs and wide verandas,
it possesses no element of the mountain tavern. Mr. Cole, its owner, is
one of the oldest settlers in the Siskiyous. He has been here through
all of the vicissitudes of the early times, when the valley was a
savage region known only to the bears and the Indians. To him belongs
the southern portion of the land in the valley, its value being now
very greatly increased by the advent of the railroad. There are so many
delightful spots in this valley, some even consecrated by historical
reminiscences, that it is well worth the while of the traveler to stop
a night ere he proceeds. Indeed were it only to witness the glories of
a sunset on Shasta, watching the sun as it slowly sinks behind the
ridges, its fading beams seeking the valley through a horizon line of
sugar pines; were it only to mark the snowy summit of Ashland Butte,
shining with an almost ineffable loveliness in the changing light which
the long shadows of the pine-covered ridges descend in ever-increasing
darkness in the valley; were he only to stay for this, he would have
good reason to consider his stopover a profitable one. Another very
interesting excursion is to follow down the winding of the Cottonwood
into another and smaller valley, which opens out between a spur of the
ridges and a low range of foothills. The little stream here grows wider
by the addition of another sparkling little brooklet from the
mountains, flows at the foot of a huge rock which stands out so boldly
from the rolling outlines of the foothills, that one instinctively
imagines a legend, or at least a reminiscence, to be connected with it.
This rock, bold as it is and wild enough between, was the scene in
early days of a struggle betweenTHE ROGUE RIVER INDIANS
and
a number of miners who had their camp at the head of the valley. It was
shortly after the opening of the war, and so sudden was the rising that
the hostile aspect and demeanor of the Indians was the first indication
the gold-diggers had of trouble. Too late, however, for the Indians
rushed down upon them, taking advantage of their defenseless condition.
In a few minutes all were killed but two men, who managed to escape
into the forest. Not unperceived, however, for they were instantly
followed by a whooping crowd of naked savages. It was a mad pursuit,
continuing all that afternoon. For hours the fugitives succeeded in
eluding death, hiding now in thick clumps of manzanita, rushing through
bunches and thickets of scrub oak. They had entered the forest at the
head of the valley, intending, if possible, to seek covert in the
brush-covered slope of the ridge. The bloodcurdling war-whoops ringing
through the forest banished from their minds all sense of locality.
Their whole consciousness was merged in a terrible sense of impending
danger or death. Instead, therefore, of keeping in a direction to bring
them over the ridge, they followed down its crest to the point where it
breaks off at the precipice. To its very brink they ran. The gulf below
opened before them. Suddenly the murmur of the little stream which
bathes its foot was borne to their ears. Too late, however. The
terrible momentum gained in their flight down the hillside permitted no
halt, and almost before they realized their whereabouts, over its verge
they were carried, almost simultaneously, one awful cry of horror
conveying to their Indian pursuers a warning of their fate. This and
many more stories of the neighborhood of bear hunts and providential
escapes ofPILOT ROCK
and
its Indian associations, mythical and otherwise, can be heard by
stopping overnight at Cole's. There is one of those large open
fireplaces, in which the blazing fire of pine logs supplies both heat
and illumination. Old Cole has lived on the Siskiyou since the very
early days, when Cottonwood Valley was a famous hunting ground for the
Indians--when the gold-seekers first began to wash the huge ridges for
gold. There are plenty of bear even now in the mountains, but the deer,
once so plentiful, are now infrequent. The thunder of the blasting has
driven them to the further valleys on the other side of the divide.Cole's, for the time being, is the terminus of the railroad; for though rail has been laid to a point considerably further north, the line is being operated no further at present. The track winds along at the foot of Cottonwood Butte to the boundary line between the two states. This important landmark consists only of a low post held in place by a pile of stones. One can jump with the greatest ease from the Golden State into that of the Webfoot--from sunny California into rainy Oregon. The difference is not at first appreciable; the same wind moves the feathery foliage of the pine branches. There are even trees growing so exactly on the line that so many feet of their lumber is included in the resources of Oregon, while the rest forms a portion of the wealth of the Golden State. There are farmhouses and ranches half in one state and half in the other, some members of the family voting the Oregon state ticket, while others record their ballots for a candidate to the California Legislature. Like a great many other distinctions, it is one without a difference. Following the course of the Little Cottonwood it soon with a bound enters the huge canyon of the Siskiyou. The graders have had NO EASY TASK.
here,
for the road has been excavated out of the very mountainside. The
streamlet has in many places been diverted from its bed, so that, with
the destruction of the overhanging fringes of fern and foliage, the
scene has lost much of its picturesque loveliness. So narrow is the
canyon, however, and so high do the buttes rise above the track that
there is no lack of grandeur. The sugar pines and firs almost meet in
an arch of foliage above the railroad. The light flitters through the
branches, throwing checkered shadows on the ground. Further up, another
canyon opens to the right, but following another bend of the
Cottonwood, the road emerges in another rather barren mountain valley
known as "Upper Cole's." At this point, one of the largest of the camps
of graders is situated, and the sight of its numberless little tents
forces a realization of the fact that no insignificant percent of the
Mongolian population of the Pacific Slope is now in the Siskiyous
engaged in the prosecution of an enterprise of the greatest importance
to the States, Chinamen developing California and Oregon. Patient,
rough workmen they make, unwearying, but with little vitality or
energy. For extent of labor they are not to be compared with white men.
Their highest claim to the consideration of their employers is the low
rate at which they can be engaged. They are paid ninety cents per day,
out of which they supply themselves with rice and tea. The white men
are paid $1 per day and are supplied with food by the contractors. An
inspection of one of these camps is, perhaps, one of the most
interesting sights connected with a visit to the "front," and as the
valleys and canyons of the mountains are now dotted with theseTEMPORARY VILLAGES,
the
traveler cannot but become aware of this arrangement. It would perhaps
be better to say lack of arrangement, for at a first glance the
disposition of these curious conical erections of dirty canvas appear
in the highest degree promiscuous. Every San Franciscan knows, however,
that the bulk of the Chinese coming here are imported by the Six
Companies; also that the individual members of these organizations are
only unanimous in their struggle against the municipal government.
Consequently it would hardly be the correct thing for members of the
different companies to slumber peaceably together in the same tent, or
to merge their differences over a bowl of tea. The camps, therefore,
are divided off into six parts, each of which has its own kitchen and
its own agent. This latter individual is a product of the relations
between the two races. He represents both the workers and the
companies, but himself more than all others. To him is paid the wages
of the Chinese, and with him all transactions are made. His duty it is
to subtract first his own portion, then that of his company, and the
remainder, whatever it is, goes to the unfortunate Mongolian. It is
interesting to visit one of these camps when the work of the day is
over and the Chinamen sit laughing and chatting round the large and
invariably dirty cauldron in which the evening meal is simmering. Some
have thrown off the huge gutta percha boots, for which their home
slipper with their gutta percha soles have been discarded; other lie
listlessly around, resting after the hard labor of the day. A study of
their expressive features, of the different tones of their voices, is
most curious. They sit talking and laughing like so many magpies, and
one is perpetually at a loss to know what amuses them so much. Perhaps
they are making fun of each other, or maybe of their masters, or mayhap
it is only a humorous story one of them with a local reputation as a
wit is telling. The quarters of the white men who are engaged in this
grading work are somewhat more comfortable. The tents are longer and
cleaner, the food better and more varied. This immense construction
force here in the Siskiyou is in its arrangement very much like an
army. There is first the Commander in Chief, W. E. Hood,THE CHIEF ENGINEER
of
the Southern Pacific. Next comes J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of
Construction. These two are really only visitors. They visit the scene
of operations pretty constantly, it is true, as the arduous and
difficult nature of the work renders their presence necessary. But the
major-general amongst the stationary men is W. G. Sanborn, the Resident
Engineer. He it is who superintends the work, looks after the grades,
directs the corps of location engineers, etc. Next to him is William
Mangan, Assistant Superintendent of Construction, and then come the
heads of the various gangs of graders, who are known as "riding
bosses." Their names are: M. Mangan, Strowbridge, Fogarty, Sullivan and
Morris. Under these again are the China herders--white men whose care
it is to look after the Chinese and see they do their work. The more
difficult portion of the work, however, in grading a road, is done by
the white men. A few hundred yards past Upper Cole's, the most
difficult and steepest portion of the whole route begins with a huge
horseshoe curve, which zigzags the line right across the valley to the
ridge on the opposite side. Here it is that the ascent begins in
earnest, and much of the grade from this point to the summit tunnel is
what is known as three-three, signifying a rise of 3.3 feet in the 100,
or what is known as 174 feet to the mile. The rough nature of the
ground, also, demands much cutting and filling, and the construction of
several culverts is demanded by the several mountain streams which
tumble from the fir-covered ridges. Up, up, it winds, through a huge
ridge and then into the summit tunnel, 3100 feet in length, emerging
then on the other side of the Siskiyous, with an outlook over Ashland
and the Rogue River Valley. The distance by rail from Cole's to the
tunnel is only eight and a half miles, or about six by the stage road.THE ALTITUDE
at
Cole's is 2870 feet, while at the tunnel entrance it is 4070 feet, thus
giving the grade an average rise to the mile of a little over 140 feet.The construction of the Siskiyou tunnel has long been one of the betes noirs on the path of any railroad seeking to link California and Oregon. One of the favorite projects was the Oregon and California Railroad, and his firm determination was to build a road from Portland to San Francisco. His surveys were completed through the Siskiyous. He had even excavated 1200 feet of the tunnel on which the Southern Pacific are now working, but his failure prevented the realization of his gigantic project. The road was constructed from Roseburg to Ashland, but stopped there. The passage of the Siskiyous was too much for even this Napoleon of finance. Now only a short distance of this tunnel remains to be excavated, and an immense corps of men are at work with the most improved machinery in driving it through. The approaches resemble a small town, so many houses, saloons, etc., are there. The problem of locating a grade on this side of the summit, the sudden fall of the mountains toward Rogue River Valley offered to the engineers even a more perplexing problem. It has, however, been successfully solved, but at a very great expense to the constructors. Running from the Ashland end of THE TUNNEL,
the
road runs along the sides of the canyon for about three miles due north
and then makes a big bend toward the west, in the direction of Ashland.
An enormous horseshoe canyon sweeps it back again into the canyon
whence it emerges, through another horseshoe canyon and a tunnel 1200
feet in length in the Bear Creek Canyon, whence it is easy work
reaching Ashland. In one place the two tracks are only separated by
about thirty feet of hillside. The track thus describes a gigantic S,
to fill in the details of which an immense amount of trestling, grading
and filling will be necessary. This pass will be one of the sights of
the road, winding as it does through dense forests, with the rich,
fertile stretch of the Rogue River Valley extending far away to the
very verge of the Cascade Mountains.Mount Pitt rises in silent snowy majesty from amidst its circumambient ridges, the Rogue River winds its swift way to the Pacific, amidst a perfect bower of maple and alders, and poplars, passing on its course that strange formation, so familiar to those acquainted with the history of the early Indian wars, Table Rock. The Rogue River Valley is the Los Angeles of Southern Oregon, but a Californian rapidly concludes that the apple groves, in the midst of which Ashland is embowered--white steeples and houses rising above the grain--seem fatally insignificant when compared with the acres of tropical foliage, the dusky green and gold of the orange groves of the southern metropolis. San Francisco Call, July 3, 1887, page 9 Beyond Butteville and between that place and Yreka, which we reached at seven o'clock in the morning, the country widens into a level valley. Forming its southern limits are the mountains that gather around Shasta, and to the north one looks upon the Siskiyou Range. Butteville, which contains a few houses and one hotel, stands at the outskirts of the forests that grow between it and Sisson's. The place has many attractive surroundings, and the view of Shasta, from near the hotel, is even better than from Sisson's. It was too dark to see anything of the country until we were nearly three-quarters of the way to Yreka, but on my first trip over the same route Butteville was our supper station, and for an hour after leaving it we could see Mt. Shasta and the faint outlines of the Siskiyous. On this second trip the valley was hid in darkness, and there was not even a suggestion of the scenes I could so well remember. At times B. fell asleep, and once the driver did too, and then, waking up suddenly, tried to make me believe that he had only been deeply thinking. Slowly the hours passed, and then morning came. The bright light made my eyes burn, and fight against it as I would, I had to catch fitful naps. It was too late now to see Shasta again. Where the peak should have been, there was only a thick mass of smoke and haze, and all around us was a barren, sandy plain, dotted over with sagebrush, glaringly white, and leading east and west to far-off mountains. Scores of rabbits, long-eared "jacks" and plump little "cottontails," hopped lazily out of sight, and before us, a white speck in the distance, was Yreka, the woebegone, half-awake place where we were to breakfast, and later on begin our daylight ride over the Siskiyous. On reaching the town we fled to the nearest hotel, had a scant breakfast, and were soon fast asleep in the stuffy little parlor. In two hours we were called and again began our journey. Once more the box seat was ours. The day was hot, the stage crowded, and the ride at first dull and uninteresting. Yreka is built on a hillside, and is, as I have said, a small sleepy town without an atom of interest. What it will be when the railroad reaches it I dare not prophesy. That it will have a boom I haven't a doubt. Indeed, it ought to, for if it sleeps any longer, it will soon be past waking up. There are some mines near it that will pay for working, when the transportation of ore is possible, and the valley which the town overlooks is susceptible of high cultivation. But so far, the village and its country have been neglected, and the only thing that makes me remember the place is the view we had from its outskirts of Mt. Shasta. Looking far off over the valley up which we had driven in the night, and across the forests through which our road had led, we saw the white peak of our good old friend. It looked taller, more massive, whiter and more beautiful than ever, and when at last we lost sight of it and turned our faces towards the range we were soon to cross, we felt as though saying goodbye to an old companion who had made our days the pleasanter by his presence. It is so difficult to give the true coloring to a description of any scene or place that I am tempted to omit altogether speaking of our ride over the Siskiyou range. It is impossible for me to do full justice to the pleasure it gave us. There was a constant succession of peculiarly beautiful mountain views, and each one seemed more replete with interest than the other. Soon after leaving Yreka we followed a road that swept around the brow of low, bare hills, and then turned towards the mountains, and began a long, hard climb up their steep slopes. For dinner we stopped at an old farmhouse, where a plain bill of fare was served in a long, low dining room. It was a good, wholesome meal, and it tasted so strangely like New England that I asked our hostess if she had not been born in the East. Yes, she said, and had lived there nearly all her life. Then her husband caught the California craze, and they had drifted westward to the farm they now occupied. The man of the house, who collected the half-dollars, looked to me like the decidedly lesser half of the establishment. On asking the driver about him, he said he didn't amount to much and was generally considered a "mean sort o' cuss." I must confess that he looked it, and he certainly did not keep his farm in good order. For a few hours after dinner we drove lazily through rough and, at times, cultivated fields and along the outskirts of some small country villages, crossed several small streams, and followed the windings of narrow valleys, in some of which we saw a few Chinamen washing for gold. Years ago, so the driver said, the country produced a large amount of ore, and was most active. But at last the placer camps were forsaken, except by the Chinese, and the population of the towns rapidly decreased. It was fearfully hot early in the afternoon, but by keeping our umbrella up we were made fairly comfortable, and as soon as we had left the valleys and gained a higher elevation the air grew deliciously cool. It was uphill work all the way. Our four horses pulled their hardest, and our progress was slow. After getting well up among the foothills the views became more extended, the eye taking in at a glance a vast area of lowlands and uplands, valley and mountains, and a variety of coloring that it would have done an artist good to see. On nearing the steepest part of the road, where it approaches the top of the range, we changed horses and started afresh with six instead of four. There was a long stretch of down grade before us after this stop, and our horses made this on the run, the leaders entering into the spirit of the fun, and even the steady wheelers settling into a rapid canter. They knew, I think, it was their first, last and only frolic, and that for the rest of the journey they had got to work with a will and together. If they did not know this, they soon discovered it, for before long the grade was reversed, and for miles ahead the road wound sharply upward, and was so steep in one place that we all dismounted so as to lighten the load. We now, in good earnest, were climbing the mountains. Forests were on either side of us, huge cliffs towered above, and deep gulfs yawned beside us. Every headland had its trees, and tall pines grew in places so rocky that we wondered how the roots ever found room to grow. When nearly at the summit we came to where the driver lived. His home was built of logs and overlooked a deep ravine, down which we could look to where the valley beyond Yreka lay basking in the sunlight. As we drew near the place three sturdy, bare-legged children ran down the road to meet us, and when we stopped at the house, the driver put them on the stage-top with us, so that they might ride a bit with their father. "It's about all the chance they have to see me," he said. "I ain't home much, but pass here every day, an' they always take a ride." Then he told us how he happened to build in so isolated a spot. It was because he liked the mountains and always wanted to get to them whenever he had a vacation. He would "lay off," he said, in about a week, and then he and his boys were going to take a hunting trip. His wife would go too, for she liked camp life as well as the rest. There was no end of hunting and fishing to be had. The woods were full of game, and you could get anything from a bird to a bear. At the summit, where we could see over into the valleys of Oregon, the children left us. Then the brakes were locked after, and we began our descent. Taking one long last look at California, from the extreme southern end of which we had so slowly made our way, we turned our faces northward and dropped down into Oregon. I hardly know which was the more interesting, the going up or the going down the steep, tree-grown Siskiyous. In doing both we had much enjoyment. The down grade was fully as steep as the other, and we went so fast that once or twice I felt like walking, so as to vary the monotony and save my bones. The way we swung around sharp corners and swept past the edges of the ravines made us hold our breath. But the driver said there was no danger, and when we thought we could do nothing to avert it if there were, we gave up being timid and enjoyed the novelty of the drive. Every few minutes we had glimpses of Oregon. It lay at our feet almost, and the broad Rogue River Valley, to which we were bound, looked like a yellow sea as we saw it through openings among the green forests. At first the hills guarding this valley were far below us, but by degrees, as we descended, their tops came on a level with us, and then were high above us. At sundown, when the forests had already begun to grow dark, we came to level fields once more, and were soon in sight of Ashland. Before reaching it, however, we stopped at a farmhouse for supper. Tired, but still enthusiastic, we left our seats and walked in the garden until called in to partake of the good things prepared for us. The air was cool and the evening quiet. Nearby were orchards and meadows; in the garden were beds of bright flowers. Every object suggested rest and peace. Birds were singing their evening carols; some chickens had gone to roost in the branches of neighboring trees. As for the house itself, the vines half hid its time-stained veranda, and tall blackberry bushes grew beside its doorways. For an hour we rested, eating our supper in a neat, low-ceilinged room, and afterwards driving slowly off to the new town that has in the past few years firmly settled itself in Southern Oregon. Edwards Roberts, "A Western Summer," The Evening Post, New York City, July 13, 1887, page 3 Ashland is a modest little town with great expectations. It is built on a group of low hills, and runs over the levels at their base. When I first saw the place it was considerably smaller than it now is, and not so thrifty and well-to-do. But time in Southern Oregon, as in other parts of the West, sees wonderfully rapid progress in all things, and Ashland at present is enjoying its season of prosperity. It was dark when we rode into town, but at the post office, where the stage stopped, there was a crowd of people, and the square was well lighted by gas lamps. I wish I could say of Ashland that its one hotel is comfortable and pleasant. But the truth must be told, or someday I shall be taken to task for chronicling things that are not so. Let me say at once then that the inn is a small, dilapidated tavern where one can get fairly good things to eat, but where he will find almost nothing else. We were too tired, however, to care much, and the following day was so cool, and the views around Ashland were so picturesque and interesting that we forgot the hotel and had a most enjoyable time. The train for Portland which we were to take did not leave until evening. We were just too late to take it on our arrival, hence our visit to the places that I shall always think of with some degree of satisfaction. Someone had said that we should find fearfully hot weather in Ashland, but we did not. The air was wonderfully fresh, and a cool breeze was blowing all day. Taking the camera, that quiet little friend that had drawn into its dark chamber all the views we had so far seen and like, we went out early in the morning, and leaving the busiest parts of the town, wandered past an old mill to a cañon leading among the hills. A noisy stream flowed down the center of the narrow ravine, and on its banks grew a profusion of trees, oaks and sycamores, that gave a refreshing shade. From the cañon we went up one of the hills and took a bird's-eye view of the town. The scattered cottages, in nearly every instance surrounded by trees, looked very toy-like from where we stood, and we could see far up and across the great valley of the Rogue River--a valley that is now attracting much attention as a rich fruit country. It is well watered and is shut in by low hills that even now are beginning to show their patches of orchards and plowed fields. Those most intimately acquainted with the Rogue River country are enthusiastic admirers of it, and tell great stories about its future possibilities. It lies at the extreme southern end of Oregon, and is traversed by the Oregon and California Railroad, which now makes Ashland its terminus. The land is mostly level from the river back to the hills. The soil is of great depth and is prolific of fruits. The valley is already famous for its orchards, those of the pear, peach and apple being now a conspicuous feature in the landscape. The winters here are cold, but short, and the summers are never oppressively hot. The fruits are not so large as in California, but are more luscious, apples and pears particularly. When the new road is completed, Ashland should become a great fruit center. Lands are rapidly being planted with plums and cherries, and some have started vineyards, in which the hardier grapes are doing remarkably well. The picking season had already begun at the time of our visit, and in the orchards were heaps of apples and pears waiting to be packed for shipment. In some of the gardens we found wonderfully high berry bushes laden with fruit. Contrasted with some other Western scenes, the country about Ashland seemed delightfully tame and natural and subdued. There was exquisite blending of colors, and the orchards, with their long rows of trees and apple heaps, made a lovely picture. It is nearly 500 [sic] miles from Ashland to Portland, but the ride is through a country of such fascinating interest that one forgets to be tired. After supper, and while it was yet daylight, we drove to the station and went aboard the waiting car. In the twilight we moved down the quiet valley. Then, at last, the darkness shut it out of sight, and we had a long sleep while our train pushed on towards Portland. In the morning we were in the famous Willamette Valley. Edwards Roberts, "A Western Summer," The Evening Post, New York City, July 19, 1887, page 3 A free tooth-pulling show attracted crowds on the streets in Ashland the forepart of the week. An expert tooth extractor used a liquid mixture which when applied to the gums deadened sensibility to some extent, and relieved many people of troublesome teeth. Sometimes the extraction was painful, however, judging by the contortions of the victims. The man used the forceps and a banjo player and singer as attractions, and then sold bottles of his "liniment" (probably a mixture of cocaine, menthol and other things) for his profit. Ashland Tidings, August 5, 1887, page 3 For a time this summer hay was exceedingly scarce and high in Portland, the price finally reached $25.00 to $30.00 per ton for best baled hay a fortnight ago. The late crops along the Columbia River, caused by high water, ran the price up. Jackson County men saw their opportunity, and began shipping hay from the stations down the valley at a fair profit. The price in Portland has gone down to $18.00 per ton now, but hay is still being shipped from this valley, and it is understood that one firm is engaged in completing a contract to deliver 400 tons in Portland. Ashland Tidings, August 5, 1887, page 3 A PROMISING REGION.
An Oregon County's Rich Resources. MINERALS, WOOD AND STONE. A Fertile Soil, Adapted to the Growth of Fruits and All Farm Products. Medford (Or.) Transcript.
Jackson County is bounded on the south by the Siskiyou Mountains and
Siskiyou County, Cal., on the east by the Cascade Mountains and Klamath
County, on the north by the Rogue River Mountains, and west by the
fourth standard parallel west and Josephine County. It is eight
townships or forty-eight miles wide, east and west, and an average of
nine townships, or fifty-four miles, north and south. The area contains
2592 square miles, in other words 1,658,880 acres. Of this amount
280,000 acres are in cultivation, which can be enlarged to a total of
500,000 acres more. Dividing the 1,658,880 into three parts, one-third
is arable land, one-third grazing land and one-third timber land. The
arable land comprises the valley, table and rolling hill lands. The
grazing comprise the lands too arid and hills too steep for general
cultivation, which are generally sparsely covered with scattering
timber. The timber lands comprise the slopes of the mountains, the more
rugged hills and canyons, and some lands along the watercourses.
Rogue River rises in the Cascade Mountains in the north corner of the county, not far from the famous Crater Lake, and down southeasterly diagonally across four and a half townships, then bending a little more southward, runs through two and a half townships, and thence runs nearly due west to the Pacific Ocean. Its waters being supplied by melted snow, they are cold and pure. Its course is often obstructed by some rocky bluff or spur, giving it a very meandering course. It runs with a bold, dashing current, passing over numerous rapids and cataracts, which afford fine opportunity for utilizing its waters for manufacturing purposes. The principal tributaries to the Rogue River are its South Fork, Big and Little Butte, Bear and Applegate creeks, while on the north side are Butte, Elk, Stearns, Sams and Trail creeks. Each one of these watercourses and its numerous tributaries is the nucleus of a series of valleys and tablelands, separated from its neighboring valleys by a range of hills of greater or less extent. Properly speaking this great basin of Rogue River is not a valley, but a series of valleys, tablelands and hills, mixed and commingled in wild, romantic confusion, apt to bewilder and mislead the novice to erroneous conclusions. Many have been mistaken by supposing that a certain range of hills was the limit of the valley land. Under such conditions it is well for immigrants to spend two or three weeks time and visit various portions of the country. In its climate this delightful region has the combined advantages of other sections without the accompanying drawbacks. It enjoys the warmth of summer and frosts of winter without extremes in either. Having rainfall ample for all purposes, it escapes the continued winter rains of the Willamette Valley. The annual rainfall ranges from eighteen to thirty inches, averaging about twenty-five inches. The extreme limit of the thermometer in summer is 100 degrees, though it seldom reaches 85 degrees, while in winter it seldom sinks as low as 10 degrees below zero, the average for winter being 40 degrees and in summer 60 degrees. Snow falls in winter to the depth of from one to three inches, and occasionally a little deeper, but seldom remains but a few hours or days at most. This is in the valley, at an altitude of from 1200 to 1600 feet; in the mountains and valleys having greater altitude there is more snow than ice. It rains earlier in the fall and later in the sumer, so that a person can select such conditions in climate as will suit his fancy. The climate is tempered by local causes. We are situated in a great basin, only about sixty miles from the Pacific Ocean. This basin, or valley, is drained by streams which have their sources in the icy canyon and snow-clad peaks forming its outer wall. Now, when the sun's rays in the summer send the mercury up to 100 degrees, the cold streams flowing through the valley from these snow-covered and icebound mountainsides bring with them a current of cold air, which at once enters the warm air and modifies its temperature. Moreover, three or four warm days are sufficient to cause the trade winds of the north to sweep down the coast from Alaska, to break over the trend of the coast at the exit of the Umpqua and Rogue rivers and Coos Bay, and follow up these streams, pour their cooling draughts of moist, fresh air into the warm, dry air of the valley. These causes, working to harmony, keep up a continued circulation, and removing all sultriness, leave the air invigorating and healthy. While these causes moving along down the babbling brooks or floating on the zephyrs of the wind give us our admirable climate in summer; others as noiseless but no less potent save us from extremes in winter. The summers are long and dry, during which time the water recedes from the earth's surface to a greater or less extent. In the meantime the earth becomes warm to a considerable depth, so that when winter approaches and snow essays to cast her white ermine over the land and frost bite the air the latent heat of the earth melts the snow and dissipates the frost. To aid this we have the warm air of the Gulf Stream [sic] blown in upon us by the southwest winds. Other causes of less note combine with these in producing the various climatic phenomena so acceptable to all. Thus favored, we have no long, inclement winters or hot, sultry summers. Storms, tornadoes and cyclones, which visit other countries and scatter destruction and death in their track, are here unknown. Spring, summer, autumn and winter, seed time and harvest, come and go in regular succession, but the transition from one to the other is so gradual that one fails to note the end of one or the beginning of the other. The great diversity of soils and the admixture of the elements composing one class of soil with those of another grade renders it exceedingly difficult, in the space at our demand, to describe it so that one not acquainted with its peculiarities and the climatic influences can form a rational conclusion concerning its merits. The soil of all sections of country seems to be adapted to the climate, or the climate to the soil. These two conditions seem to be admirably adjusted here. There is no frost to loosen up or pulverize the mineral elements, but this work is done by chemical action caused by the admixture found in nearly every grade of soil. Nothing more astonishes the novice than the crops found growing on lands which appear to him as of little worth. This is a peculiar country, and its soils are not less remarkable. To classify as nearly as possible consistent with brevity, we have bottom, prairie, adobe, granite and a sand and clay soils. The bottom land is found along the rivers and creeks; the prairie soil on the prairie or tablelands; the adobe on the plains, tablelands and hills; the sand, clay and loam in all parts of the valley. Besides these, we have along the hillsides a marl of a reddish cast, in which decomposed granite, feldspar, mica, chloride of iron, clay and vegetable mold have been ground together by continual washing down the hillsides. This soil seems to be specially adapted to grapes and peaches, but will also produce all other fruits or grains desired. Jackson County has 1,658,880 acres of timber, grazing, mineral and agricultural land. From this land may be produced all that is necessary for the support of beasts and men. Her vast forests, comprising every variety of wood necessary for the wants of a ripe civilization, awaits the echo of the woodman's ax, the buzz of the saw, the mellow hum of the planer and the merry clatter of arms of iron and fingers of steel. To aid the advance of civilization and give it permanency, there are stored large banks of potter's clay, beds of cement, veins of coal, quarries of limestone, sandstone, marble and granite, mountains of iron sufficient to belt a continent, and mines of gold capable of yielding, when developed, circulating medium for a grand, prosperous commonwealth. Wheat, rye, oats and barley grow well on all soils and yield fine crops. The straw is generally bright and clean, free from rust and mildew; the grain fills plump and well matured. Owing to this fact our wheat is sought after and always commands the highest market price. The best lands will average 30 to 35 bushels of wheat and from 40 to 50 bushels of oats per acre. Common-grade land will average 20 to 25 bushels of wheat and 35 to 40 bushels of oats per acre. Fields under good culture often produce from 50 to 60 bushels of wheat per acre and a corresponding amount of oats. Hitherto fruit culture has received but little attention, a limited home consumption being the only market offered. But the advent of the railroad, giving shipping facilities to the outside world, has caused this industry to bud with new life. There is certainly a promising field open to anyone to embark in this industry. The great Northwest must draw its grapes, peaches and other fine fruits from this section, or others less favorably situated. During the past four years there have been a large number of choice fruit trees set out. The product from this will give birth to canneries and dryhouses which in time will offer a market for the fruit. The seasons are propitious. Trees grow well and bear a bountiful crop. It is the opinion of persons well informed that the extensive leads of magnetic iron found at Gold Hill and vicinity are amply sufficient to warrant a sure and profitable return for capital invested in preparing the iron for the markets of the world. While the ore exists in apparently inexhaustible quantities, other essential elements and natural facilities are equally abundant and easily utilized. Among these may be mentioned inexhaustible quarries of sandstone, granite and marble for building purposes, never-failing supply of lime and stone coal, grand forests of timber, and the privileges of magnificent water power. Rogue River, the principal river of Jackson County, rising in the western slope of the Cascade Mountains, flows across the full breadth of the county, piercing the backbone at or near Gold Hill, and exposing to view the extensive body of iron ore above mentioned. Along the headwaters of this river and its tributaries has grown, and now remains in all its native grandeur, a forest of the finest quality of timber, comprising yellow pine, sugar pine, white and red fir, and various other woods. Jackson County has three incorporated towns, Jacksonville, Ashland and Medford. Jacksonville is the county seat of Jackson County, is pleasantly located at the foothills, five miles from Medford and the Oregon and California Railroad. Jacksonville contains a population of about 900 souls. Has fine school and church privileges. Ashland, a thriving town, is located in the southern part of the valley, against the foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains. It is pleasantly located, has fine school and church privileges, and at the present time has a population of 1500 souls. Medford is on the main stem of the Oregon and California Railway, about midway between Portland and San Francisco. It has had a growth that is both substantial and permanent, and is today a wide-awake, thrifty little city. Situated, as it is, in the midst of the best and most attractive portion of Southern Oregon, in the heart of Bear Creek Valley, where the soil, climate and water are the best, there is no tangible reason why the prosperity and progress of Medford should not continue. San Francisco Chronicle, August 11, 1887, page 7 Rogue River Valley.
(Extract from a letter by A. S. Hammond in Minneapolis Saturday Evening Spectator.)To a person looking for a healthful and delightful climate and a location where the greatest variety of fruits can be raised successfully, the Rogue River Valley offers greater inducements than any other place I have yet seen. In traveling over Washington, Oregon and California you will find locations that excel in some one or two branches of fruit growing, and many that will excel in stock raising and, perhaps, grain raising, but for magnificent fruit of all kinds this valley certainly "lays over" them all. I have never seen fruit in California that will compare favorably in flavor with the fruit raised here, and for apples, plums and cherries, California is nowhere. I have seen peaches--or, at least, a peach--that measured fifteen inches in circumference. This climate is as near perfection as it gets anywhere, I imagine. The mercury does not vary as much here in a year as it sometimes does in twenty-four hours in Minneapolis. It is never as hot in the daytime as it is there, and hot nights are never known. In winter it rarely gets as cold as 14 deg. above zero. Either there is something about the atmosphere that makes people so contented with life that they want to make the most of it by living as slowly as possible, or else they get a living so easily that there is no incentive to extra exertion, for they are certainly a slow-going people. No one seems to be in a hurry, and when a Minneapolitan starts up the street at his natural gait people stare after him and wonder whether it is a prospective birth or death that causes such unseemly haste. Nature has done so much here that the people do not seem to think it necessary for a man to do anything. Your typical Oregonian is a well-preserved, well-satisfied individual who owns a big "ranch" which he doesn't want to sell, and who thinks eastern ideas are no good to this country. This portion of Oregon is no place for a man with a family and no means, but to the man who has sufficient capital to buy a few acres of land in the foothills, clear and plant it, and support his family from three to four years, I know of no section that holds out greater inducements. Ashland Tidings, August 26, 1887, page 1 GOOD FOR MEDFORD.
MEDFORD
(Or.), October 28th.--To her other large shipments for this season,
aggregating about 350 tons of fruit, Medford forwards today ten fully
loaded cars of fall and winter apples. The cars are placarded "Southern
Oregon fruit, for H. E. Battin Co., Portland, Or., from Medford." These
cars carry about 110 tons of fruit. Another train equally as large will
leave here the coming week. The broken-freight shipments of fruit for
the past week have footed up a couple of tons. The aggregate of freight
shipments of fruit from Medford so far this season by Battin & Co.
has been 570 tons. Since August 25th, Wells, Fargo & Co., have
forwarded from Medford forty tons of grapes, peaches and mixed fruit.A Southern Oregon Locality that Is Just Waking Up. (Copyright 1887 by the California Associated Press.) During the last twenty days forty-three city lots in Medford have been sold, and during the past ten days a dozen farms in the near vicinity of Medford have been bought by locators from other states. Ten families have been added to Medford's population during the last week. Sacramento Daily Record-Union, October 29, 1887, page 1 The valley of the Rogue River is a wide reach of fertile country about fifty miles long, north and south, and from five to twenty miles wide. Here there is a wholly different climate and a variety of production different from that of the more northerly country. The soil, too, is different, a coarse, rich, granite sand, distinct from the alluvial muck of the Willamette. The higher temperature is seen in forests of sugar pine which crown the heights and shrub growths, which makes the country look more like California than Oregon. Turning to the artificial growths, one sees a vast change from the appearance of the Willamette. Wheat, oats, barley, etc. are familiar enough, but the field waving with corn, the hillsides covered with grape vines, the orchards of peach trees and fields of melons, bespeak a kindlier air. This country is under a warmer sun. In climatic as in geographical sense it is the middle ground between Oregon and California. The Rogue River Valley lies chiefly in the county of Jackson, but the same climatic conditions extend over its sister shire of Josephine County. A large share of the Rogue River lies, in fact, in Josephine County, and besides this central valley, in both Jackson and Josephine, there are innumerable lesser valleys with vast ranges of foothill and elevated rolling country, suitable for agriculture, sheep and general stock. While every sort of farming prospers here, the abundance and excellence of the fruit is specially noticeable. Grapes, which cannot be excelled for the qualities requisite for wine making, grow in utmost profusion, peaches of the rarest flavor, apricots, apples, pears and small fruits--all thrive amazingly. It is a fruit farmer's paradise. The resources of the district are not alone in agriculture and kindred pursuits. Gold and silver are and for many years have been regular products of the country. Millions of dollars have been taken from the hills, and mining continues the second if, indeed, not the first of the productive industries of the country. Within the mountain ranges there are vast deposits of marble, lime rock, granite, and the darker building stones. Forests of many choice varieties, sugar pine, cedar, fir, myrtle, etc. clothe the hillsides, the mountains and the watercourses, and afford a resource which already employs a considerable capital and many hundreds of workmen. Again we can find no better illustration of the development of the country than is afforded by the figures of production which for the year just closed are approximately as follows: Number of acres under cultivation 750,000, pounds of wool 140,000, bushels wheat 280,000, bushels oats 120,000, bushels barley and rye 110,000, tons hay 20,000, bushels corn 110,000, pounds butter and cheese 140,000, pounds tobacco 350, hops 5200 pounds, bushels potatoes 60,000, bushels apples 150,000, bushels prunes and plums 17,000, ounces gold dust 4000. Within three years the isolation which has always bound this great region, in many particulars the most attractive in the state of Oregon, has been broken by the extension of the Oregon & California Railroad through its entire length. The direct connection with Portland, thus secured, has already proved a great benefit, and a still further advantage is expected upon the completion of a short gap, which will soon open a direct connection with San Francisco. Southern Oregon will then have choice of markets, both buying and selling, and all the benefit which results from competition. The chief towns of this section, Jacksonville and Ashland, enjoy some importance as depots of trade with counties both to the east and west. The counties of Klamath and Lake deal extensively with these towns, while to the west Curry County is a regular customer. Manufacture, too, availing itself of the natural power, has made a start, and with so many raw materials at hand, is destined to be an important factor of the country. "Southern Oregon," Democratic Times, Jacksonville, November 18, 1887, page 1 SOUTHERN OREGON.
T. B. Merry, in a recent issue of the Sunday Mercury, writes:
I have just got home from a trip into the last ditch of the Argonauts--Jackson County. It is more Californian in character today than any part of California, except Siskiyou County, perhaps. To leave Portland in the midst of a pouring shower, as I did last Saturday afternoon, and to find myself twenty-four hours later on a hillside back of Medford, 350 miles south of here, was almost a revelation. The Rogue River Valley is the Tyrol of America, and it never looked half as beautiful to me as it did this time. It is nearly nineteen years since I first looked upon it, and it only grows brighter and more lovely with age. You all know how autumn gives a peculiarly blue tinge to the mountains and an orange haze to the atmosphere. I never saw these tints as perfect as they were in the Rogue River country last Monday. It seemed but a step across the valley to the broad Table Rocks that lay opposite the mouth of Bear Creek, and but a mile or two further to the great snowy sugar loaf of Mount Pitt that reared its tempest-clad cone into the azure and kissed each passing cloud. From Grants Pass to the foot of the Siskiyous there is but little profit in grain culture, even for the thriftiest Yankee or the canniest of Scots. The distance to tidewater is so great, Portland being nearly as far off as San Francisco, that the land carriage on wheat, oats or barley would eat the head off a crop that yielded sixty bushels to the acre. But Jackson County is a great pork-producing section, for the reason that she has a very extensive acorn mast on her evergreen oak trees, thus enabling hogs to run out and keep fat till November before being fed any grain to harden them up for the market. When a man goes through our Portland wholesale grocery stores and sees the Cedar Rapids hams and Sioux City sides of bacon that are hauled hither 2,500 miles by rail, it does seem as if we ought to find some market for the sleek and well-fed porkers that are roaming the oak-dotted grain fields of Jackson and Josephine counties. They will be more apt, however, to find ready purchasers in San Francisco, being far superior to the scurvy hogs that are grown and fatted in the Sacramento Valley. A man who raises grapes for the wine factories in Sonoma or Napa generally gets from three to three and a half tons per acre. This averages, one year with another, twelve dollars per ton. Now admit, for the sake of argument, that Jackson or Josephine County will not produce over two and a half tons of grapes to the acre and that the vineyard owner cannot get over ten dollars per ton for them. This gives him twenty-five dollars per acre as the result of his year's labor. Now what could that same farmer do if he produced forty bushels of wheat on the same acre of ground, which is over the average? He could not ship his wheat to San Francisco or Portland and get over thirty-eight cents per bushel net out of it after paying freight and charges, which would leave him fifteen dollars and twenty cents as the result of his year's work on each acre. I hope to live to see the day that Jackson and Josephine counties are one continuous vineyard from Grants Pass to Ashland, and barely raise enough grain for home consumption. If there is a domestic tyranny in the world, it is this thing of obliging everybody to grow wheat for a living. It places the farm under the control of everybody but the farmer. The railroad man gets the lion's share of the husbandman's profit, and the sack manufacturers and the ship owner get the rest of it. And after that the man who tills the soil takes the beggarly remnant that is left. Democratic Times, Jacksonville, November 25, 1887, page 1 INCLUDING SIX COUNTIES--A RICH AND VARIED COUNTRY.
What is called Southern Oregon includes the four counties of
Jackson, Josephine, Coos and Curry west of the Cascade Mountains, and
Klamath and Lake counties east of the Cascades, and adjoining the
California line. The territory thus included is about one-fifth of the
superficial area of the state. This great district includes three
distinct climates. Coos and Curry counties, which lie next to the
ocean, have the coast climate, described above as characteristic of
Clatsop and Tillamook. Jackson and Josephine, which lie within the
basin of the Rogue River, compassed about with mountains, have a
climate of their own, dryer than western Oregon, yet not so dry as the
climate of California. In summer they lie under a warmer sun than their
northerly neighbors. Klamath and Lake counties are in the elevated
country east of the Cascade Mountains and suffer, if not extremes,
severities of cold never experienced west of the great ridge.
----
Oregonian,
Portland, January 2, 1888, page 9JACKSON.
Jackson, the
most populous and wealthy of the southern counties, takes in almost
completely the large and fruitful valley of the Rogue River, with the
converging uplands on every side and a large area of rolling and
mountainous country. The great feature of the county is the valley,
which is about sixty miles long, and varying in width from two to
twenty miles. The climate of Jackson County approaches, without
reaching the semi-tropical, and is highly favorable to a sort of
production which in the colder western Oregon regions needs the most
careful nursing. Corn, peaches, grapes, etc. here grow in perfection
and abundance. The country is especially adapted to fruit. Until three
years go the county was wholly destitute of transportation excepting
such as was afforded by wagon on a mountain road, and this fact will
explain its slow development. Since the extension of the Oregon
&
California road in 1884, progress has been wonderful. Population has
greatly increased; the area of cultivated land has been largely
extended. In orcharding especially there has been marked progress,
hundreds of thousands of orchard trees having been planted within the
past twelve months. So great has been the development that to give the
figures of production furnished by the state census of 1885, without
comparative figures of later date which are not available, would be
misleading. The range of production, as shown by the census, includes
wool, wheat, oats, barley, rye, corn, hay, dairy products, tobacco,
hops, fruits, lumber and gold. Mining is an important industry in
Jackson County.
Returns for 1887 show the school population of Jackson County to be 3743. There are seventy-three teachers and during the year $18,500.42 was expended for maintenance of the public schools. But these are not the only schools in the county. At Ashland there is a college chartered by the state as a normal school, and there is an excellent school at Jacksonville independent of the public support. Jacksonville and Ashland are the chief towns of the county. The former is the county seat. The latter has a fine water power which is practically applied in a woolen mill, flour mill and sash factory. Medford, a town created by the railroad seven miles from Jacksonville, has made great progress and bids fair to rival the older towns. The following figures are from the assessment roll for 1887:
Value
Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,156,763 Horses, 4432 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160,700 Cattle, 11,547 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162,852 Sheep, 16,021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17,897 Swine, 9,307 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14,700 Gross property valuation . . . . . . . . $3,221,100 JACKSON COUNTY.
The following is a brief and concise description of Jackson County, and
Rogue River Valley in particular, which we copy from a descriptive
pamphlet issued by Silas J. Day, a real estate agent at Jacksonville.
Its statements can be relied upon, as they are not overdrawn and are
made by one who is a pioneer and knows what he is writing about:
BOUNDARIES
OF JACKSON COUNTY.
Democratic Times, Jacksonville,
January 6, 1888, page 1
Jackson County is bounded on the south by the state line between
California and Oregon, which runs near the summit of the Siskiyou
Mountains, on the east by Klamath County, Oregon, which boundary runs
near the summit of the Cascade Mountains, on the north by Douglas
County, Oregon, which line runs through the Rogue River Mountains, on
the west by Josephine County, Oregon. The county is forty-eight miles
wide, east and west, with an average length of fifty-four miles, north
and south. This area contains 2592 square miles, or 1,658,880 acres. Of
this amount 280,000 are in cultivation, which can be enlarged to a
total of 550,000 acres. One-third of the county is available arable
land; the
other two-thirds are timber and grazing lands. The arable land
comprises the valley, table and rolling hill lands. The grazing land
comprises the bald hills, which are too steep for general cultivation,
and the elevated mountain lands, which are sparsely covered with
timber. The timber lands comprise the slopes of the mountains
(principally on the north side), the more rugged hills and canyons, and
some lands along the watercourses. About one-third of the land of the
county is timber land.
ROGUE
RIVER.
Rogue River Valley, which is principally in Jackson County, is the
basin that is drained by Rogue River and its tributaries. The principal
tributaries of Rogue River are Applegate, Bear, Big Butte, Little Butte
and Evans creeks.Rogue River enters the county near the northeast corner and flows southwesterly, diagonally across four and a half townships, then bending a little more southward, runs through two and a half townships, and thence runs nearly due west to the Pacific Ocean. Applegate rises in the southwest corner of the county and flows in a northeasterly direction about twenty miles, then bends northwesterly and flows into Rogue River in Josephine County. Big and Little Butte creeks have their source near the east boundary of the county, and flow in a northwesterly course and intersect Rogue River near the center of the county. Bear Creek has its source near the southeast corner of the county, and flows in a northwesterly course through the best body of agricultural land in Rogue River Valley, and intersects Rogue River at what was formerly Fort Lane. Evans Creek rises near the north boundary of the county and flows in a southwesterly course, and intersects Rogue River near the boundary line between Jackson and Josephine counties. PHYSICAL
FEATURES.
Along each of these watercourses and their numerous tributaries are
valleys of variable extent, which are usually separated by a low range
of hills and table lands. The principal body of true valley land in the
Rogue River Basin lies northeast and east of Jacksonville. If a line be
projected northeast from Jacksonville, it would pass over fifteen miles
of level valley land before intersecting the range of hills on the
opposite side of the valley. Then if a line be projected east from
Jacksonville, it would pass over seven miles of level valley land
before intersecting the range of hills in that direction. The
last-mentioned line would cross the valley near Medford. Then if a line
be projected southeasterly from Medford, it would pass over twenty
miles of valley land before intersecting any hills of consequence.Rogue River Valley lies in the midst of scenery of surpassing beauty. Looking from the summit of the hills west of the valley we see fields of green and gold spread out before us, with Bear Creek, fringed with evergreen trees, hurrying on to mingle its waters with the sea. To the northeast we see Rogue River entering the valley, also fringed with evergreen trees. Then for a background we have the dark green of the Cascade Mountains, from which rises Mount Pitt, towering above all with its mantle of perpetual snow. There are along all of the tributaries of Rogue River valleys which cannot be seen from the main valley. A person passing along the line of the railroad would conclude that the land immediately in sight was all the land of value in the Rogue River Basin, but if he would proceed in any direction which his fancy might dictate, he would find, after passing over a low range of hills, other smaller valleys. Through each of these flows a stream of purest mountain water, with orchards, gardens and grain fields on either side. HEALTH.
Rogue River Valley is considered one of the most healthful localities
on the Pacific coast. To illustrate: We will say that among a number of
200 scholars enrolled in our public school, here in Jacksonville, not a
single death has occurred in six years. There is some malaria along the
streams in the lower parts of the valley, but none along the foothills.
Jacksonville is situated on the edge of the foothills, about 200 feet
in elevation above the lower parts of the valley, and is considered the
most healthful locality in the county.CLIMATE.
The climate of Rogue River Valley is a mean between that of the
Willamette Valley and California, as we have neither the excessive
rains of the former nor the parching droughts of the latter. We do not
have the blizzards of the western states [i.e., the Midwest]
or the destructive heats of the eastern. The average mean temperature
for the month of July for six years was 72 degrees above zero, for the
month of January 33 degrees above zero. The thermometer has never been
known to reach zero in this valley since it has been settled by the
whites.Destructive wind storms never visit us. During the summer months we have light thundershowers, but they are not accompanied with the high winds of the western states. The principal part of the plowing is done in the months of November, December, January, February and March, and seeding is done in all of the winter months. After a residence of thirty-five years in this valley, we will say that we do not believe the climate can be excelled. The rainfall averages about 26 inches per annum. The principal part of this falls during the months of November, December, January, February, March and April. SCHOOLS.
We have fifty-four school districts in this county. The smaller have
school from three to six months in the year, the larger nine months in
the year. Our common schools are equal to those of any other state in
the Union. The teachers in the larger districts come from the best
normal schools of the eastern states, and teach according to the best
methods used in the older states.The students from this county take higher rank at the state university than those from any other county in the state, and the larger part of the students who have entered that institution from this county have been prepared for such entry in the Jacksonville district school. MINES.
The principal mines of Jackson County are situated northwest, west and
southeast of Jacksonville. The principal mining camps are Blackwell,
Willow Springs, Galls Creek, Sardine Creek, Kanes Creek, Foots Creek,
Jackson Creek and its tributaries, Forest Creek, Poormans Creek,
Applegate and its tributaries, and Sterling Creek. All the country
northwest, west and northeast of Jacksonville is gold-bearing, and
mining is at present carried on in all of the above-named mining
districts. A large number of gold-bearing quartz ledges are situated
west of Jacksonville, on Jackson Creek.TOWNS.
Jacksonville, Ashland and Medford are incorporated towns. Talent,
Phoenix, Central Point, Gold Hill and Woodville are stations on the
O.&C. Railroad.JACKSONVILLE.
Jacksonville is the county seat of Jackson County. It is the oldest
town in the valley. It is located on the western side of the valley,
four and three-fourths miles from the O.&C. Railroad. Every
line of
mercantile business is conducted here with full stocks of goods. The
merchants are usually able to discount their bills, and buy their goods
by carload lots; hence goods can be bought as cheap, if not cheaper,
than on the line of the railroad. It has a population of 1000. It has
three churches, a large public school; also an academy, conducted by
the Sisters of Charity. The latter institution, being the only Catholic
school in the county, is well patronized.It has a bank, which does a general banking business, also a large steam flouring mill. The principal buildings are the courthouse, public school house, Sisters' Academy, town hall, and the halls of the orders of Masons, Odd Fellows and Red Men. The town contains thirty brick buildings. The courthouse, recently built and furnished at a cost of $39,000, is a fine, large structure, substantially built of brick and stone, complete in all its appointments, and elaborately furnished in the most approved style. The best body of agricultural land in the valley joins Jacksonville on the east and northeast. Immediately on the west the mines begin. All kinds of produce is bought here, also the principal part of the gold dust that is produced in the county. ASHLAND.
This town is situated in the southeastern portion of the valley on the
foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains. It has a population of about 1500.
It has the only woolen factory in the valley. Its mercantile and
business houses represent every line of trade. It has four churches.
Its churches and public schools are in a prosperous condition. Ashland
Creek, which flows through the town, furnishes water power to run a
grist mill, woolen factory and other machinery. It has a system of
water works, which give good protection to the business portion of the
town against fire.MEDFORD.
Medford is situated on the O.&C. Railroad, four and
three-fourths
miles east of Jacksonville, and is the depot for that town. Its
population is about 600. It has two churches and a large public school
house. Its mercantile and business houses represent nearly every line
of trade. The town has been built since the completion of the
O.&C.
Railroad.CENTRAL
POINT.
This newly built town is situated four and a half miles northeast of
Jacksonville, on the O.&C. Railroad. It is situated in the most
central part of the valley, and is surrounded by good agricultural
land. It is favorably located to be a lively trade center.ALTITUDE.
Central Point, which is situated near the main center of the valley, in
the Rogue River Basin, is about 1200 feet above the level of the sea.
Medford has about the same elevation. Jacksonville, which is situated
on the edge of the western foothills, is about 180 feet above Central
Point. Ashland, which is situated in the southeastern edge of the
valley, is about 350 feet above Central Point.SOIL.
Soil cannot be fully described without a chemical analysis, which would
be beyond the scope of this pamphlet. Soil in general being formed from
the decomposition of rocks and the decay of vegetation, a knowledge of
the rocks of the county will give some idea of the character of the
soil. On the western side of the valley we have granite, mica schist,
talcose rocks, and metamorphic limestone, which are traversed by
numerous quartz ledges. The soil on the western side of the valley
contains a large percent of iron. In addition to the above-mentioned
rocks there is sandstone, which covers portions of the hills. It is the
decomposition and mingling of the above-mentioned rocks, together with
decomposed vegetation, that forms the rich soil of the western portion
of the valley. In the northeastern portion of the valley the elements
that compose the soil are different from that in the western portion,
by the addition of volcanic rocks, the decomposition of which has
formed strips of adobe or "sticky" land, which is very rich and
productive, but is difficult to cultivate, from its sticky nature at
certain seasons of the year. There is a strip of three or four sections
of land in the northeastern portion of the valley that is termed
"desert" by the old settlers. It is level, and is covered with small,
rounded boulders and pebbles, and has the appearance of once having
been the bottom of a lake. This is the warmest strip of land in Rogue
River Valley. It is here that the snow first disappears and grass first
grows in the spring. Although this strip of land now looks worthless,
we believe it will yet be made valuable by sinking artesian wells. The
experiment of sinking artesian wells has never been tried in the main
body of the valley, yet the physical features of the country are very
favorable for getting water from such wells.The soil of the main valley is principally composed of a dark, sandy loam, with strips of clayey, gravelly and adobe lands. The soil in the smaller valleys is usually a rich, sandy loam along the streams, and of various qualities along the foothills. FRUIT.
All kinds of fruit that are grown in the temperate zone are
successfully raised in Rogue River Valley. Fruitgrowing in this county
has passed the experimental period. Experience conclusively proves that
there is more actual wealth in our soil in raising fruit than there
ever was in our gold-bearing creeks and gulches. Apples, pears,
peaches, plums, prunes, apricots, cherries, nectarines, grapes,
strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, currants and gooseberries are
all grown in abundance and are of superior quality. The apples grown in
this valley are considered by competent judges to be superior to any
other grown on the Pacific coast. About three years ago the planting of
peach orchards for the purpose of raising peaches for export began.
This year large quantities of peaches have been exported from this
valley and have brought the highest price in the market. Some of the
three-year-old peach orchards have realized two dollars per tree for
the peaches sold this year, which is an income of about $400 per acre.
Pear trees never fail to bear abundant crops of fruit of the finest
quality. This valley is certainly the home of the prune and plum.
Nowhere in the world can the prunes and plums of this valley be
excelled. The trees bear enormous crops of extraordinarily large-sized
fruit of the finest flavor. Cherries are a never-failing crop, and the
trees bear abundantly.The principal vineyards of this valley are situated near Jacksonville. The largest contains seventeen acres. The grape crop has never failed since the vines began to bear. The grapes are of superior quality, and large quantities have been exported this year to the markets of the Willamette Valley and Washington Territory. There is no greater pleasure than to walk through the vineyard of J. N. T. Miller, which is situated one-half mile north of Jacksonville, and see tons of this beautiful fruit. The market for the fruit of this valley is without limit. All the vast tract of table land lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Cascade Range will soon be inhabited by tens of thousands of people. These people will have to look to the west of the Cascade Mountains for their fruit supply. Our winter apples will find a never-failing market in California, Montana and Mexico. When we have planted sufficient small fruits to justify it, canneries will be established here, which will make a ready market for all of such fruits. TIMBER.
The timber of the Rogue River Basin consists of the following
varieties, to wit: fir, yellow pine, sugar pine, cedar, yew, white oak,
black oak, maple, ash, alder, laurel and a species of cottonwood. Fir
is the most abundant timber in
the basin. It is the principal rail timber, and is mostly used in
frames for building and bridge construction. It is very strong and well
adapted to the purposes for which it is used. Yellow pine is used for
flooring and rough lumber of buildings. Sugar pine cannot be excelled
as a finishing lumber. It is used for doors, sash, blinds, moldings and
all finishing work about buildings. It is the most valuable lumber we
have. Cedar is a good finishing lumber, but sugar pine has superseded
it for this purpose. Yew and cedar are much used for fence posts, and
are very durable. The yew does not attain sufficient size to be
manufactured into lumber. The white oak of this valley is not of much
value for anything but firewood. Black oak and ash are used in the
manufacture of wagons and agricultural implements. Maple, alder and
laurel are the principal timbers used in the manufacture of furniture,
for which purpose they are well adapted. Cottonwood is used only for
wood and rails, and is not of much value. Maple, ash, alder and
cottonwood usually grow in creek bottoms; white and black oak in the
valleys and on the foothills. Yellow pine is generally distributed from
the low valleys to the high mountains. Fir is found in all altitudes,
from the low valleys to the line of perpetual snow, and is most
abundant on the north side of hills and in deep canyons. The fir is an
evergreen, cone-bearing tree, which sometimes attains a height of three
hundred feet, and its dark green foliage and symmetrical shape add much
to the beauty of our scenery.CEREALS.
Thirty-five years ago the first crop of grain was raised in this
section. Ever since the first crop was raised there has not been a
failure of the grain crop in this valley. The grain raised is of
superior quality and commands the highest price in the Portland market.
Nearly all the wheat raised in this valley weighs over 60 lbs. per
bushel. With proper cultivation wheat, rye, oats and barley grow well
on all soils and yield fine crops. The straw is bright and clean, free
from rust or mildew, the grain full, plump and well matured. The best
lands will average 30 to 35 bushels of wheat, and from 40 to 50 bushels
of oats per acre. Good land with good cultivation has produced as high
as 60 bushels of wheat per acre. If the land is properly cultivated a
good crop is assured. Irrigation is not used in the cultivation of
grain.CORN.
Jackson County is the best corn-producing section in the Northwest, the
average yield being about 40 bushels per acre.STOCKRAISING.
The mildness of the climate and the healthfulness of stock makes this a
favored section for stockraising. Some of the finest horses of the
Pacific coast have been raised in Jackson County. Cattle are raised
here without any feed during the year, but careful stock raisers
usually provide hay to be used during winter in case of emergency. Some
winters are so mild that no feed is necessary. There are winters,
however, when the ground is covered with snow for two or three weeks.
The cattle then require feed. Sheep raising has been profitable when
proper attention has been paid to the flocks. Hog raising is also a
profitable industry. A large amount of bacon is annually exported from
this valley, and a large number of fat hogs are yearly driven to
northern California to supply the market.POULTRY.
Turkeys and chickens are very healthy [illegible] raised.
Geese and ducks also are raised in enormous
numbers. Our market for export is Portland and San Francisco. This will
ensure a good market and a ready
sale. The present price of eggs is 30¢ per dozen, and the
average
price during the past year has been 15¢. A great improvement
in
the prices of poultry and eggs is expected now that the O.&C.
Railroad is connected with the California line of railroad.BUTTER AND
GEESE.
Butter of the best quality is made here. But little attention has been
paid to cheese making. The most favorable locality for the dairy
business is the foothills or mountain lands. The usual price for butter
is 25¢
per pound, for cheese 16¢
per pound. Dairying, properly conducted, would be a profitable business.VEGETABLES.
All kinds of vegetables that are grown in the temperate zone are
successfully raised in this valley. Irrigation is usually employed in
raising vegetables, but on good soil, with proper cultivation,
vegetables of all kinds are successfully raised without irrigation.
Vegetables are free from any disease.IRRIGATION.
Fruit, vegetables, berries and tame grasses are benefited by
irrigation, but can be successfully grown without. The best-flavored
fruit is grown without irrigation. Deep plowing and subsoiling are all
that is required.GRASSES.
Although it is necessary on some soils to irrigate alfalfa to ensure a
good crop, yet alfalfa can be cultivated successfully in good soil
without irrigation. A field of alfalfa near Jacksonville has been cut
three times this year, with a total yield of six tons per acre, without
irrigation. Farmers owning land not suited to the culture of grass sow wheat,
oats or barley and cut it at the proper time for hay. Timothy is not
extensively cultivated.THE TALK OF THE DAY.
Says the manager of the Oregon Immigration Bureau: "I never knew
immigration to Washington Territory and Oregon to be as heavy as at the
previous time. The Pacific Coast boom began in California, and is
extending north to the international line. The class of people who are
taking up land in the north are better than the average of past
seasons. They all have money; not fortunes, but sufficient to keep them
independent of the farm for two years or more. There are no pauper
foreigners among them to make themselves a burden. Most of the people
who go north engage in stockraising or dairy farming. Washington
Territory is considered unapproachable as a dairy farming country, and
the government and railroad lands are being taken up rapidly. The
completion of the California and Oregon line will assist greatly in
populating Northern California and Southern Oregon, and will institute
a boom that will have no precedent."New York Tribune, July 25, 1887, page 4 SOUTHERN OREGON.
Rogue River Valley--Medford, Jacksonville and Other Towns. Old-Fashioned Farmers--What Eastern Farmers Are Doing. Adaptability of the Climate and Soil to Apples, Pears and Plums. (SPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF THE BULLETIN.) Medford, Or., Aug.
1, 1887.
The
resources and agricultural possibilities of Southern Oregon are
gradually coming more and more into prominence. Many home-seekers,
principally Eastern folk, are now visiting this locality and are on the
lookout for good locations.
Going north from California into Oregon on the Oregon and California Railroad, the traveler is compelled to stage it across the border line, as about eight miles of the railroad remain yet to be completed. The cars are resumed at Ashland, Or. ROGUE
RIVER VALLEY.
Ashland lies at the
southern end of the Rogue River Valley, which is one of the fertile
places of Southern Oregon, springing into prominence just now. Here in
this valley are grown abundant crops of wheat and fruit, both of a good
quality. Fifteen miles north of Ashland lie Medford and
Jacksonville--the former on the eastern and the latter on the western
slope of the valley, about five miles apart. Both of these towns are in
the center of the valley and are surrounded on all sides by large and
prosperous farms. Jacksonville and Medford, though near neighbors,
differ widely from each other in many respects. Three years ago there
was no such place at Medford. The railroad located a water tank and an
eating station there, and in a short time a town sprang. up. [The town sprang up before the
construction of the depot.]
Although only three years old, Medford now boasts of nearly a thousand
inhabitants. Jacksonville, on the contrary, is an old established town
about twice the size of Medford, and was an old town long before the
railroad was thought of. Why the railroad did not come through
Jacksonville is a conundrum which few of its residents can
intelligently answer. As it is, the town is now reached by stage daily
from Medford. Still, even as it is now, Jacksonville is not
complaining, for she is better connected now with the outside world
than formerly. There are several other towns situated in the Rogue
River Valley, but they do not compare in size or importance with
Ashland, Medford or Jacksonville. A small place called Gold Hill stands
at the extreme northern end of the valley.FARMING
IN THE VALLEY.
There is
in this portion of Oregon
a disposition among the people, more especially the farmers, to adhere
to old-fashioned methods and customs. Anything "newfangled" meets their
utmost contempt. The farmers in many cases will not even enclose their
lands with decent-looking fences, the old-time "stake and rider" fences
prevailing. Then again, they persist in wheat-growing, taking their
chances on being able to get rid of it all at anything like a fair
price, when it has been thoroughly proven to them that they have one of
the best countries in the land for growing apples, pears and prunes.
These three fruits reach perfection here. It is true that several
farmers in the Rogue River Valley are now engaged in fruit-growing,
doubling their profits and relieving themselves from all worry and
care, but in nine cases out of ten these very farmers are Eastern men
who have only recently located in this section of the country. It did
not take them long to find out where the immense resources of the
country lie, and they quickly took advantage of their discovery. Of
course the majority of the Oregonians, with their antiquated ways,
laughed at first at these Easterners, and many of the more obstinate
ones continue to do so yet. But it will be of short duration.WHAT
AN INTELLIGENT FARMER DID.
Apropos to
this, a circumstance
which occurred in this vicinity not long ago might be of interest. An
eccentric-looking old farmer, who had left his farm in Maine, came into
Southern Oregon and bought forty acres near Ashland. Notwithstanding
the fact that surrounding him on all sides was to be seen growing
nothing but wheat, this eccentric-looking individual made a careful
examination of his soil and formed his own opinion as to what it is
most adapted. Imagine the horror of his neighbors when they discovered
that this eccentric-looking old man had planted his entire forty acres
in watermelons. Certainly the old man was not only eccentric, but
hopelessly insane, and there was considerable talk among the farmers of
having him examined by an insanity commission. But when the
eccentric-looking old man raised an immense crop of melons and reaped
about triple the profit per acre that his sympathetic neighbors did
from their grain fields, it began to dawn upon them that he was not
such a fool as he looked. So it is with most with the farmers in regard
to fruit-growing. It is hard to pull them out of the old rut. But it is
only a matter of time when they will fall into line with the
progressive newcomers, and assist in the general development of this
section of the country.THE
CLIMATE.
The
climate here is good. Of
course there are better climates on the coast--they can't all have the
best--but it is enough to say that that of Southern Oregon is good,
never being too warm or too cold, and is, as a rule, uniformly even. It
partakes of many of the features of the California climate. The
prolonged rainy seasons are not so prevalent in this section of the
state as they are further north, and can hardly be termed a "webfoot"
section.J.G.M.
San Francisco Bulletin, August
4, 1887, page 4SUNNY SOUTHERN OREGON.
The Advantages Possessed by the Famous Rogue River Valley.
John S. Urquhart, formerly superintendent of the fire alarm telegraph
system of San Francisco and now a resident of Gold Hill, Or., is in the
city, and in conversation with an Examiner reporter
last night said: "The Rogue River Valley, on account of its mild
climate, its fruitful soil and attractive scenery, has been fitly named
'the Italy of America.' The valley is fifty miles long and from five to
twenty-five miles wide, and has a population of 11,000. The climate is
excellent, the thermometer seldom falling below ten degrees above zero.
The rainfall averages from 15 to 25 inches each year and is always
sufficient to ensure a good crop. The chief industries are farming,
stock-raising and fruit-growing. All cereals, including corn, yield
abundantly without irrigation. The fruit industry promises to be one of
great magnitude in the near future."
"How about the mines?" questioned the reporter. "For many years," continued Mr. Urquhart, "the placer mines of Southern Oregon have yielded many thousands of dollars in gold. Quartz mining, now in its infancy, promises rich rewards in the future, and good indications of coal, quicksilver and iron have been found. Springs, including sulfur, soda and iron mineral springs, abound and possess valuable medicinal properties." San Francisco Examiner, November 24, 1887, page 2 SOUTHERN OREGON.
The Favorite Fruit Region--Vineyards at Jacksonville. Fruit-Growing at Ashland--Apples, Pears and Cherries-- Plenty of Good Fruit Land for Years to Come.
A
recent journey to Southern Oregon and a week spent there gave the
writer some idea of what is considered the best fruit region in the
state of Oregon. All of Western Oregon and Washington is adapted to the
growing of fruit, though there are more favored conditions in some
localities. Rogue River Valley lies 230 miles south of here, and its
climate partakes of the best qualities pertaining to both Oregon and
California. It produces some fruits in perfection that are not
congenial to the Willamette, such as peaches and grapes. It also
produces all the fruits that do well further north.
Rogue River and Umpqua valleys, in some respects, surpass the northern counties in ability to grow crops requiring a warm summer climate. Those valleys have a decided advantage in the production of fruit, and from the railroad we see more show of corn fields than grain stubble, corn ripening here and making a good crop. These remarks are especially true of Jackson County. At the south the rainy season is less decided, with more good winter weather. Storms suddenly clear away, while with us rains are continuous and are followed by cloudy and foggy weather, and danger from frost is greatly diminished. Where rains suddenly cease and clear weather follows, as in Northern California and Southern Oregon, frosts are frequent and do great harm. We seldom hear of any general damage from frosts, such as occurred May 11th and 12th last spring, causing injury to fruit along the coast for five hundred or more miles. Such frosts are more liable to the south of us for reasons just stated. FOOTHILLS
FOR FRUIT.
There is a
belt of foothills in
Southern Oregon, located above the frost line, averaging a mile or
more, in winter, that is almost sure to be exempt from frost and safe
to produce fruit crops. This is the favored portion of these valleys,
though even these foothills are not universally certain, as isothermal
lines exist, caused by air currents or unfavorable lay of the land.
These will be located in time, but there is an extensive area in which
vineyards and orchards can be safely planted, and there is every
inducement to make fruit-growing a leading industry.We hear much about the capacity of Southern Oregon to produce fruit, but one who passes through Rogue River Valley sees few indications of fruit growing, and the land in orchards forms hardly a perceptible portion of the country. VINEYARDS
NEAR JACKSONVILLE.
Jacksonville is in the foothills,
where a mining camp attracted prospectors at an early day. The town
lies at the west of a large cove and on the north side of which the
foothills that face the south have been planted to vineyards with
success. In riding towards Medford we can see a few patches indicating
vineyards, but not one acre in a thousand is so planted. It is claimed
that Jackson County has fifteen vineyards aggregating one hundred
acres, producing four tons of grapes to the acre. The largest is that
of J. N. T. Miller, Esq., situated near Jacksonville and covering
sixteen acres. Here, in the middle of November, we saw beautiful
bunches of luscious fruit hang on the vines and wine making in full
progress. They were making wine because our market could not use all
their grapes. If Portland fruit dealers, with so large a country to
supply, are not able to use the present product of Jackson County, it
must be apparent that wine making, or the manufacture of raisins, will
be the chief recourse when vineyards are extensive.PEACH
ORCHARDS AT ASHLAND.
At Ashland
they are clearing off
the higher points of the foothills to plant peaches, and when relieved
of its growth of manzanita, chaparral, pine, laurel and mountain
mahogany this land is held at high figures. The land produces a heavy
growth of the woods named, but its appearance surprises a stranger. It
is decomposed granite, showing little soil, or what is so considered.
In passing through the peach orchard of Mr. Gailey, consisting of
thirty acres, one sinks to the ankle in coarse white granite sand, but
his trees show good growth at two and three years old. These rugged
points and the gentler foothills are quoted as selling at $100, $200,
$250 and $300 an acre. No doubt they can pay a good interest on this
investment.BEAR
RIVER VALLEY.
Ashland is
fifteen miles up Bear
River, above the main valley of Rogue River. The valley of Bear Creek
is narrow, and hills rise on each side to considerable height. On the
Ashland side they rise and rise until they climb into the Siskiyou
Mountains, but on the opposite, or east side, the hill range divides
Bear Valley and Antelope Creek. On the south six streams enter Rogue
River, and six more come in on the north, and all have valleys and
foothills more or less adapted to fruit. The main valley is thirty by
fifteen miles in extent, and with its tributaries must furnish an
immense area of foothill or bench lands that invite fruit growing on an
immense scale. Hills or knolls along the main valley afford excellent
locations for orchards. Where they have a right exposure nearly all
these uplands must be of value. Mr. McCall, at Ashland, pointed to a
cleared space that has recently sold for $300 an acre, with the remark
that five years ago he would not have given six bits an acre for it.
Someone with self-reliance, good sense and courage set out an orchard,
and then the boom set in.VINE
LAND AND FRUIT LAND.
Crossing
Bear Creek, opposite
Ashland, we find a clear hillside as high as the hills rise; granite
sand is mixed with clay and the land is somewhat sticky, though there
is no reason apparent why it should not produce all sorts of fruit. We
met a Mr. Morris, from California, who has bought 2000 acres on this
side three miles below Ashland, who has full confidence in this soil
and intends to plant 100 acres in peaches next spring. We see many
peaches from Ashland in our Portland markets, but the planting of
orchards there has only just begun, and the few bearing orchards they
have are very young.At Jacksonville they have only planted vineyards, but the same land can produce peaches to the best advantage, judging from its location. Ashland has succeeded with peaches, but it is said a cold sweep of air up that narrow valley does not make the culture of the vine possible there. We learned that apricots grow well in Ashland gardens but are not planted extensively. One intelligent observer expressed this opinion that being more tender than peaches they could not be grown as successfully in that region. It is evident that peaches and grapes can be successfully grown on good locations, and a very extensive area of suitable land can be put to such use. Josephine County has also much bench land on its rivers where fruit should grow to best advantage. Applegate and Williams creeks have large valleys, and there are other streams putting into Rogue River below its main valley that as yet are not known or understood. There is such a great area of good fruit in that section of country that there is no good reason why excessive valuation should be placed on that already understood. It will be many years before it can be utilized, and it will be a public misfortune if it shall pass into the hands of speculators who will put a high figure upon it. A Mr. Stewart, who came from Indiana, has located some distance south of Medford, which is the railway station for Jacksonville, about five miles distant. He is planting a large pear orchard in the rolling land or foothills, because that valley is so sure in producing good crops of very excellent pears. He is well up in pear culture and considers that region the best he ever knew for that purpose. Apples and cherries do well there, and the good people thereabouts have a faith in themselves and their country that is pleasant to behold, but they probably err in supposing that no other part of Oregon can hold a candle to them or compete with them in these products. ROGUE
RIVER AND UMPQUA VALLEYS.
The main
Rogue River Valley is in
part high prairie and good soil, and three-fourths is more or less
gravelly. While fruit trees grow well enough on this low land, it is so
much liable to danger from frost that it is not considered safe to
plant orchards or vineyards there. Besides there is an old-time
prejudice in favor of hill land for fruit, as giving a better flavor
than the soil of the prairies. The future should see these southern
counties devoted to the production of choice fruits, earning a great
name and winning for the fortunate fruit growers fortunes to repay
their enterprise. California will furnish a convenient market for all
their apples and pears. They are going out of the apple business there,
their orchards proving short-lived and their apples miserably inferior
in quality.The two rivers, Umpqua and Rogue rivers, have large areas tributary to them composed in great part of rugged hills that will someday be appreciated and cultivated. The delightful climate will ensure the full settlement of the county, and the value of this great hill region will be tested to the utmost. It is claimed that though it has no area of open valley to equal Rogue River the Umpqua itself is actually lower in its flow than Rogue River, and therefore cannot have a very different climate. Judge Stearns, of Oakland, says Umpqua Valley has cooler summers and warmer winters than Rogue River, by actual observation, and he claims that there should not be a serious difference in the ability of the Umpqua to produce fruits native to a warm clime. Certainly we receive our early fruits and vegetables from Douglas County a month almost before they ripen near home, and as soon or sooner than they reach us from Rogue River Valley. THE
PIONEER UMPQUA VINEYARD.
Years ago
Hon. Jesse Applegate set
out a large vineyard on the side of Yoncalla Mountain, or what to us
seemed a mountain to climb, that was--save for altitude--an easy walk
from Snowden Springs. We visited him there and have often asked the
fate of this pioneer vineyard, to learn that it made reasonable
progress up to the time our old friend lost his beloved wife, when he
quit the spot, and his successor allowed sheep to devour the vines and
destroy the vineyard. He assured us that it would have done well had it
received the proper care and cultivation. We cannot learn that grapes
or peaches have ever received a fair test in Umpqua, though it cannot
be excelled as to prunes. These are grown with rare excellence, as also
all other fruits grown in the Willamette.Southern Oregon as herein described simply awaits development. The construction of the Oregon & California Railroad through its whole extent gives reasonable hope that we shall soon see settlement commence and continue there and the development of this choice portion of our state keep on until its merits are fully tested. This road is, we think, destined to do much towards filling Oregon valleys with homes and peopling our hillsides with fruit farms. The overflow from California may easily surpass the direct travel from the East to the whole Pacific Northwest. Tens of thousands are drawn to California who cannot remain there and must go elsewhere. They will be sure to return east by the northern route, and many may actually come here to settle and make homes. We propose to make this whole region known to those who may soon come here. The length of this paper prevents reference in detail to the present fruit production of the Southern Oregon counties, and such particulars as are obtainable on this subject will be given at an early day. Oregonian, Portland, December 3, 1887, page 8 This article was reprinted in the Ashland Tidings, December 9, 1887, page 1 ASHLAND.
A Delightful Climate Having Neither Cold nor Heat. Ashland Peaches and Apricots of Better Quality and Richer Flavor Than Any Others on the Pacific Coast, to Say Nothing of Other Fruit. ASHLAND, Dec. 6.
Ashland is one of the largest towns in Southern Oregon and has a
population of 1500 people, with the number constantly increasing. It is
situated in the southern part of Jackson County, twenty miles north of
the California state line, and for several years has been the terminus
of the Oregon & California Railroad, the place where passengers for
the south take the stage for the long trip across the mountains to
connect with the California & Oregon Railroad on the other side.Ashland lies at the head of Bear Creek, which drains a rich section. The business part of the town is in a hollow on the banks of Ashland Creek, which comes into Bear from the west, while the residences occupy the hillsides on the west of Bear and on both sides of Ashland Creek. Ashland Creek is the good spirit of the place. Rising in the snows of Ashland Butte away off to the west it comes down cold and clear, supplying water for all purposes. With a rapid fall it furnishes power to run the Ashland woolen mills, one of the best-paying manufacturing enterprises in the state. At present the mill is shut down and will not begin work until after the holidays. Thirty hands are employed the year round, and about 200,000 pounds of wool are annually bought and made into all kinds of woolen goods, flannels, cassimeres, dress goods and woolen underwear, and the Ashland mills' blankets have a reputation even on this coast, where fine blankets are the rule. Taken from a half mile up the creek in pipes, the water gives such a pressure that from the fire mains a stream can be shot over the largest building. But it is neither the railroad nor Ashland Creek that the town is proud of; it is the climate and the soil that Ashland is thankful for. Here 1900 feet above the level of the sea is a climate that is indeed delightful; it is, like all of Western Oregon, subject neither to extreme heat or cold. The rainfall is not so great as in the Willamette Valley, and the drought and hot winds of Southern California are not known in this favored valley. The soil around Ashland seems to be of two kinds--a rich, sticky adobe to the east and in the bottoms, and a granite soil, composed of decomposed quartz, is found on the western hills. There is very little of the red soil found in other portions of Rogue River Valley. It is in the granite soil that fruit trees do so well. Probably it holds the heat longer; at any rate the finest-flavored apricots, peaches, and in fact all small fruits, are raised here. In the bottoms, vegetables of all kinds do well. Onions particularly seem to have a sweeter, less pungent taste than any I have ever eaten. One farmer told me that he sold 10,000 pounds last year--twenty tons--and that, too, right here in Ashland. At first I could not believe him, but after trying one I only wondered that they had as yet attained no wider celebrity. Mr. G. F. Billings, the enterprising and remarkably well-posted real estate agent of Ashland, kindly took me around to a few of the cellars this afternoon. I found, in addition to well-preserved vegetables, large varieties of apples, all in a perfect state of preservation. The dry atmosphere no doubt contributes to this state of affairs, and Mr. Billings tells me that worms either in the tree, bush or fruit are absolutely unknown. He further showed me where peach orchards and vineyards were being laid out on the hills above where the town has grown. Peaches seem to be the favorite fruit, and no wonder when the wonderful success and profits accruing from the same are taken into consideration. One gentleman told me of his experiment--how, three years ago, he set out 200 trees in an acre lot adjoining his home, and last year he picked and shipped 500 boxes, realizing $250 for the same. That beats hop raising, when the certainty of both the crop and the market are remembered. Among the leading business men, besides the managers of the Ashland bank and the woolen mills may be mentioned O. H. Blount, who does a clothing and furnishing business, at the same time carrying a large stock of notions. He has as fine a brick store as there is in town. G. C. Eddings, the shelf and heavy hardware dealer of Ashland, also has a good, paying business. D. Wilson, formerly of Portland, has a fine stock of furniture, carpets, curtains, etc. George Engle is in the fancy grocery business. Messrs. Burckhalter & Hasty have a large bookstore and are the authorized agents for the Oregonian at this place. Mr. Hasty will in the future also act as correspondent for the Oregonian. In the matter of churches and schools Ashland, like all Oregon towns, is well equipped. There are four pretty little churches here--a Presbyterian, a Methodist, a Baptist and Dunkard church. Ashland college and normal school is in a flourishing condition, as also are the north and south divisions of the public school. There are two grist mills and a sausage mill, all run by the same good spirit--Ashland Creek. Mr. W. H. Leeds, proprietor of the Ashland Tidings, has a bright, new little paper. His press is also run by the good spirit of this town. A pleasing feature of the place is the large number of pretty, cozy little homes scattered all over the hillside, and Mr. Billings tells me that he has few houses to rent. Nearly all the citizens own their own homes, and most of them have a little orchard, or at least a few peach, apple and cherry trees in the yard. Speaking of trees, I was surprised to see several fine old butternuts and a number of the old-fashioned slippery elm trees around town. Then too the hills are covered with manzanita and chaparrals. This manzanita I am told makes excellent firewood, for, though gnarled and twisted all out of shape, after it is cut it makes the hottest kind of a fire, rivaling shellbark hickory, and anyone knows what a hot, red-hot fire that makes. Of course the all-absorbing topic of conversation just now is the completion of the railroad and the abandonment of the stage coach. Only tonight a meeting of citizens was held to take measures on receiving the excursions from Portland and San Francisco, and it was decided to give them, among other things, a banquet. Five regular old-time thoroughbred coaches leave here every morning, and as the distance now is only fourteen miles to the mouth of the tunnel, they return in the evening. The oldest and the most experienced of the drivers alone remain. As the distance has gradually lessened during the past few years, the vast army of drivers, hostlers, express messengers, and hangers-on around what was the old California Stage Company have been culled and thinned down until today there are only five drivers and one messenger, and only seventy-five head of horses. But those that are left are the very best of the lot, all except Frank Hovey being men over fifty, who have passed their lives on the box, handling six powerful, well-kept horses. Each one of them has gone through hundreds of thrilling experiences on the road, and all but one, the oldest of them all, Old Dan. Cawley, have been "held up." He has held a charmed whip since he drove the first coach across the Siskiyou Mountains in 1854--thirty-four years ago. He has had the unique luck of never to have been held up or had a serious accident, though having had many a close call. Mr. Cawley is a short, thick-set man, 68 years old, wearing his close gray beard trimmed short, giving his countenance very much the look of Dan. Grant in the latter years of his life before he was taken down with his final illness. I anticipate hearing some good stories tomorrow, for I go over the mountains with him in the morning, and have been promised the seat of honor--on the box beside him. The other drivers are all strong, intelligent men, each one having scores of friends, as has also Dan Haskell, the Wells Fargo express messenger, who even now starts out every morning with his sawed-off shotgun on his knees. Mr. Chas. W. Logan, a photographer here, has taken a number of excellent views of the old stage coaches, some on the road and others just as they are pulling out from the express office, or passing each other on the road away up in the mountains. He has also just completed a group with Dan Cawley, A. B. Giddings, Hank Giddings, his son, Alec Smith, Frank Hovey and Charlie Ladd, drivers; Dan Haskell, Wells Fargo express messenger, and Jon Bacon, express agent. The likenesses are all good and Mr. Logan is already printing his second edition. There is some talk about four coaches, drivers and stock being held in Ashland for the winter, to be ready in case of a washout or any other accident, and there is much speculation among the men as to who will be kept on. Col. Stone, one of the owners of the stage company, has promised the boys each a new suit of clothes if they have no serious accident between now and the time the railroad comes through. The date now set for the spike driving is the 12th. The people here look on the completion of the railroad in a very reasonable light. They think of course that San Francisco will receive great benefit, but they don't seem to think for a moment that Portland will be injured. As one well-known resident here said to me: "San Francisco will grow, but so will Portland in just the same proportion, there will be enough immigrants come into the valleys to make up what is lost to San Francisco," and I think he is right. B.A.
Morning Oregonian, Portland, December 8, 1887, page 6
ROSEBURG (Or.), December 18th.--The last-spike excursion train has taken its flight today through one of the most beautiful and picturesque stretches of country on the whole Pacific Coast--over high ranges of hills, thickly covered with splendid timber; through rich and fertile valleys, thickly settled by prosperous farmers; along dashing streams of water filled with mountain trout, and through hamlets, villages and towns that gave evidences of new life and activity. Scarcely a section upon this continent could be selected where a day's journey could be made through more VARIED
AND INTERESTING SCENERY.
While other roads may pass through scenes of more massive grandeur,
none can boast of more impressive and picturesque interest. Viewed from
the standpoint of the future possibilities of this region, under the
first impulses of through railroad communication with the great markets
of the world, the importance of this section can hardly be
overestimated. The timber along the line is of untold wealth in itself,
and its importation into the markets of California over the the new
line of railroad will soon make itself felt, not only among the lumber
dealers, but in the pockets of the consumers.OREGON'S
PRODUCTS EXHIBITED.
The display of corn, grain and vegetables and fruit at the various
stations provided a great surprise for most of the Californians. The
famous Oregon apple, of a hundred choice varieties, and a most
delicious favor, was a feature of every exhibit, and it is safe to say
that no place on the earth can surpass this in the production of that
fruit in all its perfection.Specimens of sawed, planed and milled lumber were also displayed at several points, and excited the admiration of all. It has been a sightseeing day, and one which was worth the whole trip from San Francisco. FROM
ASHLAND NORTH.
The train left Ashland at 7 o'clock in the morning, and was soon out in
the beautiful valley of the Rogue River. It was a delightfully clear
and bright day, with just enough crisp chilliness in the breezy air to
put life and vigor into the frame of man. Looking to the east the newly plowed fields indicated the stimulus which the agricultural interests had received by the completion of the road. The settlers along the line were out with their wives and families waving their handkerchiefs and shouting a welcome to the flying train. In some instances a farmer would point with pride towards his farm, where the rich black loam land could be seen freshly turned over by the plow, as much as to say, "This was formerly a pasture, but with railroad facilities we will raise grain and send it down to your California markets." There were some old orchards, and many new ones, and fields plowed like checkerboards, indicating that other orchards were being planted. A
FARMER'S PARADISE.
Ten miles further on Phoenix was reached, where the valley broadens out
on the west, a broad, level stretch to the Coast Range of mountains,
and on the east a rolling country as beautiful and fertile as the
famous bluegrass region of Kentucky, though lacking its high state of
cultivation.Medford was reached at 7:30, and here the people were assembled in large numbers, with a band of music, to greet the excursion. Here was a fine display of fruit and vegetables, and a large placard reading: "Medford gives you greeting! Help yourself!" The invitation was accepted, and apples formed the principal meal for the travelers. Mayor Howard made a short speech of welcome, and Charles Crocker exhibited the golden spike to the crowd, which elicited applause. This place is only two years old, but it has a population of 1,500, has good public, business and school buildings, and shows every evidence of prosperity. AN
"IRISH" POTATO.
John P.
Irish
was here presented with a mammoth potato, and E. S. Washburn, the
well-known San Francisco contractor, created a sensation. He was making
his toilet and had just donned his pantaloons, when he saw through the
window the invitation, "help yourself." The train was just starting,
but he leaped from the platform, and seizing an immense squash,
weighing 155 pounds, bore it triumphantly on board, with the
exclamation: "I could not steal the city hall, but I can get away with
anything that grows in Oregon."AT
GRANTS PASS.
The people were out in force, and gave the Californians a hearty
reception. The display of fruits and lumber was very fine. Upon the
side of the depot next the train was a handsome design in evergreens,
bearing the words: "Welcome, California." Mayor F.
W. VanDyke
delivered an address of welcome, which was responded to by Charles
Crocker, who also exhibited the golden spike. John P. Irish was loudly
called for, and made a humorous speech. The assembled crowd gave three
cheers for Charles Crocker as the train pulled out of the depot.INTERCHANGE
OF CIVILITIES.
Glendale was reached at 7 o'clock, and here the train carrying the
Oregon party overtook the California train. Members of the two parties
here changed cars, some Californians boarding the Oregon train, and
vice versa, in order that they might become better acquainted and have
an interchange of views.THE
RECEPTION AT ROSEBURG.
SALEM,
December 18th.--Roseburg was reached by the excursion train at 2
o'clock, and a most enthusiastic reception was met with at the hands of
the people of this thriving and enterprising city, which is located in
a beautiful valley surrounded on all sides by hills. A band of music
was present, and L. F.
Lane
delivered an address of welcome, in which he said there was no chasm
between Western and Southern Oregon and California. They were of the
same family. The interests of the one were the interests of the other.
He claimed that the excursionists had come to them on their wash day,
and invited them all to come again in the brightness of their
springtime and the blossoming of their summer, when they would have on
Sunday clothes and the visitors would have no reason to be ashamed of
their country cousins."Lovely Oregon," Sacramento Daily Record-Union, December 19, 1887, page 1 A NEW PACIFIC COAST ROAD. Joining San Francisco and Portland by Rail. A Line that Took Twenty Tears to Build--Engineering Feats in Climbing the Mountains--Superb Scenery--Freight Changes. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., December 17.--The most important railroad event that has occurred here since the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad took place today, when the last spike on the California and Oregon Railroad was driven at Ashland, Ore. This event represents twenty-one years of rail construction almost steadily pushed through the project of surmounting the mountain ranges of Northern California and Southern Oregon. The accomplishment, undoubtedly, is regarded by commercial circles of the Pacific Coast as the most important in its significance since the completion of the first overland railway system in May, 1867. It affords for the first time all-rail communication between the cities of the Pacific Coast, and places under the control of one railway corporation an unbroken line from New Orleans to Portland, Ore., a distance of 5000 miles. Its projectors contend for the system from the strategic standpoint, that the completion of the northern link is of valid importance to the national government as a defensive measure in case of war, and the rapid concentration of troops. Special trains from San Francisco and Portland brought large numbers of prominent gentlemen to witness the driving of the last spike. The party from Oregon included the Governor and other state officers. There were large crowds at all points to greet the California train, and great enthusiasm was manifested. Leaving Redding for the north, the heavy train was drawn up the steep approaches of the mountains by three powerful engines, reaching Sissons at 7 o'clock this morning, 4000 feet above the sea level at the base of Mount Shasta, which rises 14,400 feet above Sissons. The train wound around the great buttes descending into the Shasta Valley. At this point the stupendous character of the engineering difficulties in compassing the Shasta range began to be revealed. Ascending Klamath range, the railway forms loops, the track itself rising in tiers, the road at one point traversing eighteen miles in accomplishing an air line of one-third that distance. In the forenoon the Siskiyou tunnel was reached. This pierces the mountain for 3300 feet, and soon after leaving it the companion tunnel, 1400 feet in length, was entered. This last tunnel delayed the construction of the road two years. At 4:45 o'clock the train reached Ashland, where the ceremony of driving the last spike was observed. Mr. Crocker struck the blows which completed the road and simultaneously fired cannon in Portland and San Francisco. The president of the day, Hon. H. Davis, representative of the municipality and the Chamber of Commerce of Francisco, spoke briefly. After prayer by Rev. F. G. Strong, Gov. Pennoyer spoke. TWENTY YEARS IN BUILDING.
The history of railroad building in California furnishes no parallel to
the delays and difficulties experienced in the construction of the
California and Oregon Railroad. It is over twenty years since ground
was first broken, and during much of this time it seemed doubtful
whether the great rocky barrier between the two states would ever be
climbed by the iron horse. It was in 1866 that the land grant was made
by Congress to two companies to construct a railroad between the
Central Pacific line at Roseville, Cal., and Portland, Ore. The
California company was known as the California and Oregon, while the
webfoot corporation was styled the Oregon and California. The
California company had 296 miles to build, about one-half of it over
the most rugged mountain country on the coast. The Oregon company had
comparatively plain sailing, with only about thirty miles of mountain
country to traverse. This company, however, had to get over the great
Siskiyou Mountain divide, a problem that no railway engineer who had
looked over the route cared to tackle. The grant provided that both
roads must be finished by October 1, 1880. For every twenty miles of
completed road each company was to receive 256,000 acres of land, which
they were privileged to select from the odd-numbered sections. Much of
this was fine agricultural land, covered with heavy growth of oak or
pine.The California company, which was backed by the Central Pacific managers, built their road leisurely to Redding, at the head of the Sacramento Valley. This was done in six years. The road ran along the Sacramento River, and no difficulties were experienced in construction. Here, however, all work on the road was dropped for nearly ten years. Meanwhile the Oregon company built their road through the level Willamette Valley to Ashland, leaving a gap of 164 miles between the two roads. Each road had received a large subsidy and a liberal land grant for building a road which did not cost more than $40,000 a mile. The California company patented its lands south of Redding, and so energetically pushed colonization that soon there were more settlers on their sections than on the government land. By midsummer in 1880 there was great clamor in Congress for the forfeiture of the lands of both corporations through which they had built no road. It looked very much as though the land grant would be taken from them, but by some methods they succeeded in staying the storm. The immediate effect of the danger they had met was seen in a renewal of railroad work by the California company. They put on a large force of men, but most of the labor was spent in preparing a roadbed, as in five years only thirty-eight miles of track were laid. On the other side of the mountains not a stroke of pick was made, as the Oregon company had failed and passed into the hands of a receiver. The slow work of quarrying a roadbed out of solid rock was carried on above Redding, and by the fall of 1884 trains were running to Delta, about forty miles above Redding, leaving a gap of 125 miles to be covered. From this point the work was prosecuted with the same vigor which marked the construction of the Central and Southern Pacific. Every man who could be secured was shipped north to the road, and thousands of expert graders were at work in drilling tunnels and other heavy labor. Early last summer Sissons was reached, at the foot of Mount Shasta, and only eighty miles remained to make the through connection. Every nerve was strained to complete the road before the rainy season, but the extreme difficulty of crossing some of the mountain passes prevented, and it was only about a fortnight ago that the road was practically completed. Even now it is indifferently ballasted, and the skeptics declare will be in poor condition for winter travel. SKILLFUL ENGINEERING WORK.
The engineering difficulties encountered on the California and Oregon
road are worthy of passing notice. There was no great tunnel of the
length of the celebrated cut through Tehachapi Pass, on the Southern
Pacific, but in the matter of contiguous obstructions to straight-line
road cutting this road has presented the greatest number of obstacles
of any California line. In engineering parlance the great difficulties
have laid in the development of the line. From the Roseville Junction
to the Oregon Division at Ashland the line is 296 miles long, and to
within twenty-five miles of that city the road rises and falls
continuously until at the summit of the Siskiyou Mountains the line is
4108 feet above the sea level. The sinuosities are remarkable. In no
less than three places are there loops, and from two and a half to
three times the distance in a straight line is covered by the track in
several places in passing from one point to another. The tangent lines
are very short, and the bed has been laid for the greater part through
the toughest of rock, requiring the most arduous work and calling for
the expenditure of large sums of money. From Redding northward the road
runs along the Sacramento River and round Horseshoe Bend over the first
trestle-bridge into the hard conglomerate rock of the two tunnels at
Sugar Loaf and Peach Orchard, where the difficulties commence. As the
road continues northward the Sacramento River is crossed and recrossed
until at Deer Lick Flat the river is forsaken at the eighteenth
crossing, some fifty-five miles north of the starting point. Before
reaching the last crossing several spots are passed worthy of
attention. At Castle Creek the first view of the great Castle Peaks,
rising 4000 feet above the river and which in time will be objects of
real interest to tourists, is obtained. Lower Soda Springs are white
soda springs in Shasta County, and the company has there bought a large
tract of land, intending to turn the locality into a pleasure resort.
The Upper Soda Springs, of a similar nature, and to the Sacramento
River, mark the gradual rise of the road, which, a mile and
three-quarters further on, at a place called Falls, skirts the bubbling
waters which have filtered down through the stratified rock from Mount
Shasta. From Falls to McCloud is a distance of four miles as the crow
flies, but requires ten and a half miles of track to pass from one
point to the other. Leaving Falls, the line follows the river for about
a mile, rising continuously, then it turns back, running downstream
again, but continuing the up grade until Sawmill Gulch is reached, one
of the scenic points of the route. Here a horseshoe curve is made and a
perfect semicircle is described, the line returning at a greater
elevation to within 200 feet of the point passed shortly before
entering on the curve. Immediately after passing the curve the first
large trestle bridge is crossed at Big Canyon, at the bottom of which,
70 feet below, rush the waters of one the little feeders of the
Sacramento River. The bridge is 372 feet long, and continues the upward
grade of the track to McCloud. Three miles further on Sissons, which is
right opposite hoary Mount Shasta, is reached, and then at Big Springs
the headwaters of the Sacramento River are passed, from which point the
grade rises to Summit, or Black Butte Pass, 3904 feet above the sea
level. A down-grade of eight miles to Edgewood, in the Shasta Valley,
reduces the height of the track above the sea level to 2955 feet, a
fall of 949 feet. Then comes a tangent stretch of seven miles from
Edgewood, or Butteville, to Montague, in Siskiyou County, the road here
being the only comparatively easy bit of track-laying on the whole
line. The railroad passes diagonally through the town and crosses the
Shasta River, running smoothly on Willow Creek, where heavy work is
again encountered. This creek is crossed four times, until, at its
junction with the Klamath River, a single-span iron bridge 260 feet
long skips the waters, and Hornbrook, close to the old hydraulic mining
town of Cottonwood, is reached. At Hudon Creek a trestle bridge 80 feet
high and 780 feet long crosses the Bailey, and then the greatest
difficulties commence, as the entire ascent of Bailey has been effected
without a tunnel of any kind and by cutting the road high up in the
mountainside. The grade is the steepest in the entire road, and
commences at Schetler Creek, one and a half miles north of Hornbrook,
rising at the rate of 174 feet to the mile until the summit of Bailey
Hill is attained, at a height of 3045 feet above sea level. From here
there is a down grade of one and one-fourth miles, and Coles, the last
depot on the California side, is reached. The boundary line is passed
at a place called Chestnut, and the maximum altitude of the entire line
is reached at a point ten miles across the line, the road having been
cut in solid rock to a height of 4100 feet in the Siskiyou Mountains,
at a distance of 388 miles from San Francisco. At the summit there is a
solid rock-bored tunnel 3108 feet long from entrance to exit, and some
idea of the difficulties may be gathered from the fact that no less
than three lines were surveyed to try and avoid the delve through the
mountain. Then comes the descent, with two long loops in it, each two
and a half times the length of the straight-line distance between the
points of commencement and ending, and then four miles of straight
track ends the journey over the new line and brings the traveler to
Ashland, whence the older road of the Oregon and California Company
leads to Portland, a distance of 340 miles, making the total length
from the Roseville Junction 636 miles.A GREAT SCENIC ROUTE.
The new road promises to be very popular with all tourists to the
Pacific Coast, as it is unsurpassed for variety and grandeur of
mountain scenery by any road in the country. The ride through the
Sacramento Valley gives the traveler the best idea of this enormous
agricultural region. The river drains a territory larger than the whole
state of New York and destined one day to be as densely populated. The
road follows the river, now passing through wheat fields seventeen
miles in length and now skirting great fruit orchards in which a single
row of peach trees extends for a mile without a break. Fortunately,
these great domains are being split up, and every year sees many
thousand acres divided among small holders, who will convert the grain
fields into orchard and vineyards. Redding lies naturally at the head
of this magnificent valley, receiving tribute from lumbering, mining
and agricultural industries. Nothing could be prettier than the view
from this town down the Sacramento Valley, with nothing to break the
view but the Lassen Butte, an enormous mass of rock upheaved in the
center of the plain. On one side are the lofty Sierra and up the other
the rugged Coast Mountains. This valley is the garden of California,
and in climate, soil, and natural advantages it would be difficult to
find its parallel--even in the Mississippi or Missouri valleys. From
Redding northward the wild mountain scenery begins, and for a stretch
of 80 miles the road runs through defiles, crosses canyons, skirts
mountain passes, leaps over lofty trestles and rushes through deep
tunnels. Experts who have been over the Canadian Pacific declare that
this dominion has nothing to compare with the awe-inspiring scenery
which is spread out here in bewildering variety before the tourists.
The first great natural curiosity reached is the Castle Rocks, a mass
of gray granite looking like the battlements of a medieval city. This
enormous granite wall seems to have been thrust upward through the
agency of a great volcanic convulsion; until now its highest columns
are 4000 feet above the level of the surrounding valley. Soon after the
Castle Rocks are left behind Mount Shasta bursts upon the view. Shasta
is 14,442 feet high, being surpassed in altitude by only two mountain
peaks on the Pacific Coast of the United States--Rainier, in Oregon,
and Whitney, in California. It is the most beautiful mountain on the
coast, however, having a perfectly conical shape, and being covered
with snow for the greater part of the year. It is the central figure of
the landscape for nearly 200 miles, towering above everything, and
making neighboring mountain peaks, which, alone, would be called grand
and beautiful, appear mean and insignificant. This peak, like all the
others in this country, shows many places of volcanic origin. On the
side of the smaller peak is a crater bowl about three-quarters of a
mile across and 1500 feet deep, the ragged rim of which shows plainly
where the lava once poured over its edge down into the valley below.
Near the summit can be seen the geodetic monument glistening in the
sun. This was erected by the Coast Survey in 1875, as the extreme cold
and high altitude made it impossible for an observer to live on the
mountain. In the early autumn Shasta is easily climbed, but at any
other season the ascent is hazardous. John Muir, the well-known
scientist, nearly lost his life on the mountain in the preliminary
survey work, as he was caught by a sudden storm, and but for the lucky
discovery of hot vapor springs in a cave near the summit, he would have
frozen to death. Above the 8000-foot level vegetation disappears, and
the remaining 8000 feet are usually sheeted with snow, through which
appear the black scars of old volcanic eruptions.At Upper Soda Springs the scenery is very fine, as here one gets glimpses of Mossbrae Falls and a superb view of the Big Bend and the great trestles beyond. The bend is sure to be a favorite point of observation for tourists, and regular trains will no doubt halt here, as they used to do at Cape Horn, on the Central Pacific, to allow passengers to enjoy the magnificent prospect. Here the tourist leaves the Sacramento River whose course he has followed from its mouth nearly to the source in Shasta's snows; below is the great gorge hollowed out by the river, and as far as the eye can reach one pine-covered headland succeeds another. Soon after passing the bend one comes to Sissons, a famous stopping place on the old stage road and a popular mountain resort because it looks out directly on Shasta, only twelve miles away, while the hunting and fishing in the McCloud River nearby are unsurpassed in the state. Deer are still common, and the mountain trout is worthy of the attention of the epicure. At Acme, eight miles beyond, is reached the highest railroad elevation in Northern California--3902 feet above sea level. Here two enormous locomotives are used, as the grades along this part of the road are frequently 2.2 feet to the 100. The road now passes through some of the most valuable pine timber land in the state. The sugar and yellow pine predominate, but the nut pine is the most beautiful, with its light, feathery foliage and the huge cones which conceal nuts dear to the heart of the Digger Indian. The remainder of the ride in California is made interesting by the wild scenery of the Siskiyou Mountains, which forms a natural barrier between California and Oregon. Just over the divide is found a huge granite pillar called Pilot Rock, that marks the southernmost point of the Cascade Range of mountains--the continuation of the Sierra Nevadas. It has been a landmark ever since the Hudson Bay trappers penetrated this country more than 100 years ago, and it served as a valuable signal station for the Rogue River and Klamath Indians in their savage wars with the early settlers. This, too, was the point toward which the Missouri emigrant toiled with his ox-team and prairie schooner on the old Oregon trail, and this was the Pisgah from which he looked down on the Canaan of the rich Willamette Valley. [The Willamette Valley begins over 100 miles north of Pilot Rock.] Over in Oregon the country changes. There is not the superb mountain scenery that has been left behind, but there is a great rolling valley stretching away for miles on miles, cut by large rivers and covered with dense woods in all but the central and thickly populated section. This Willamette Valley was settled long before most parts of California, and many of the pioneers still remain to bear testimony to the virtues of the climate and the bounty of the soil. Shut in by the Coast Ranges from the sea breezes, and by the lofty Cascades from the harsh east wind of Idaho, this valley has an ideal situation, and is capable of supporting as large a population as the Valley of the Sacramento. The chief points of interest along the road in Oregon are Table Rock, a huge flat rock, looking not unlike the stump of a mammoth tree of Calaveras, which has historical value because of the sharp fights that took place on it between a band of Rogue River Indians and American troops, in which the savages were demoralized by the rifle balls, driven head first over the sides of the bluff, dashed to pieces on the rocks below. [This is a myth.] The Umpqua and Rogue River valleys would be called unsurpassed were it not that the tourist is already sated with canyon scenery. The mountains, however, that mark the Cascade Range are worthy attention for their beautiful form and snow-crowned summits. They form a row of sentinels guarding the valley--Pitt, Scott, Three Sisters, Jefferson, Hood, Adams, Rainier. Of these Mt. Hood is the most imposing, and the nearest to Portland. Through the rich valley, along the winding Willamette, one finally reaches the chief city of Oregon and the terminus of the road. The outlook from Portland on three great mountain peaks, eternally covered with snow, is something worth a long journey to see. ITS TRADE ADVANTAGES.
As a through route for the Southern Pacific Company from Portland to
the east, the new road possesses great advantages. The Southern Pacific
owns the whole road both in California and Oregon and will soon be
prepared to ship wheat and other Oregon products to the Atlantic
Seaboard cities by central or southern route. The Sunset route now
controls three-quarters of the Atlantic Coast shipments to California
because of its superior facilities and the certainty and speed with
which it handles freight. The company propose to make the same bid for
Oregon freights, and the prospect is not a cheerful one for rival
lines. Its main market will be New York, which it can put against
Chicago, and in this competition the Union Pacific is bound to suffer.There is a sort of poetical justice in this retaliation on the Union Pacific, as the new manager of that road severely hurt the trade of San Francisco and the business of the Southern Pacific by his methods. He conceived the idea of grasping all the trade of Idaho, Montana and Eastern Oregon by utilizing the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company and stopping all shipments by the Central Pacific. He was able to make freight rates with which the California managers could not compete, and for six months he has enjoyed the monopoly of the trade of this large section. Now, however, the Southern Pacific are in a position to gather up all this trade, and a knowledge of their methods leaves not the slightest doubt that they will take everything in sight. The Northern Pacific will also be seriously hurt, and its territory, as well as that of the Union Pacific, will be further encroached upon by the building of feeders for the Southern Pacific in Washington Territory and Eastern Oregon. When these are constructed the Southern Pacific will have the wheat shipments in its own hands. The completion of this new road, however, means more to San Francisco than to any city in the country. For many years the merchants of this city enjoyed the uninterrupted trade of Oregon and all the Northern Territories. The Northern Pacific and the Oregon Short Line changed all this. The roads made a direct bid for the Oregon trade, and the result was that a large line of manufactured goods were brought direct from the East and sold at such low prices that our merchants and manufacturers were unable to compete with them. In paper, books and stationery, tobacco, furniture, stoves and canned goods the East has cut heavily into San Francisco's trade. Nearly all the furniture used in Oregon comes from the East, although California is specially favored in this manufacture by the variety of her choice cabinet woods. In fresh and canned fruit California ought to have the monopoly in Oregon, and it no doubt will have it as soon as the new road begins running regular trains. The northern counties of California raise an enormous amount of fruit, which has heretofore failed to find a market except in the canned or dried state. With the new refrigerator cars it can be supplied to Oregon and to all the mining towns in Idaho and Montana for one-half the price of Eastern fruit. This opportunity for the great development of local trade is what makes the Chamber of Commerce, Board of Trade and the Manufacturers' Association take so eager an interest in the opening of the road. It means many millions added yearly to San Francisco's trade, and it also means a powerful stimulus to young manufacturing industries that have had a hard struggle for existence. As a tourist route the new road has so many advantages that a brief summary of them is all that is necessary. The favorite route now with tourists is by way of the Southern Pacific or the Atchison to Los Angeles and San Diego. An attempt to divert the tide of travel to the Central Pacific resulted in failure this winter. But three-quarters of those who go to Southern California pay a visit to San Francisco, and return either by the Central or Northern Pacific. By the latter route they were compelled to go by steamer to Portland or Puget Sound ports, in order to avoid the stage riding over the Siskiyou Mountains. With the Oregon road now open the majority of tourists will not miss this superb scenery, but they will go through to Portland, and from there will take the Northern Pacific for the East. This will mean hundreds of thousands of dollars for the resorts of Northern California, and what is better, it will mean the introduction of prospective settlers to some of the richest counties in the state, which have been ignored because of the difficulty of reaching them. The new road, too, opens direct rail communication between British Columbia and the City of Mexico, while on the extreme Pacific Coast there is now a complete line of railroad from the extreme north of Washington Territory to Guaymas in Sonora, a result which seemed as far distant twenty years ago as does now the union by rail of Alaska and Panama. This new road, in fact, is typical of the marvelous rapid development of the Pacific Coast, and it is also an earnest of the great changes and the swift progress that the next decade will witness. St. Louis Globe-Democrat, December 19, 1887, page 3 Salem, the capital, comes next, then Albany, concerning which places I cannot say much, as it had by this time grown quite dark, but our train spend on, rounding short curves and craggy hills until 9 o'clock the next morning, at which time we were in Ashland, the terminus of the O.&C.R.R. This is a small place near the south line of the state and at the foot of the Siskiyou Mountains. The valleys were green, and farmers were plowing all the way along. At this point a different mode of travel, and a new one to me, was before us; as we alighted from the train we were confronted by five large vehicles resembling the old-fashioned "tin peddler's wagon," with which all Union County people are familiar, except that they are heavier. These belonged to the California, Oregon and Idaho Stage Company, and were called stages. In these we must go up the mountain. There were three seats in each one, and three persons were crowded into each seat. When all was ready the driver cracked his whip, and the great stage rolled away. This reminded me of the many stories I had heard of stage travel in the Wild West, and I wondered if we would be stopped by a band of robbers, or would be fired on by the savage Indian. I wondered if James Clugage had ever been over this road. While these and many other thoughts were passing through my mind, we were leaving Ashland and the narrow valley behind and below us. Things were not so green, and the snow is nearer to us. Finally our stage stopped and the driver jumped from his lofty box and said, "All passengers, alight," which we did. We were at the base of a very steep mountain, and in a very few words the driver told us that we would have the pleasure of ascending on foot, as it was impossible for the horses to draw more than the stages and baggage. Off we all started, men, women and children, but not in the best of humor, some laughing, others swearing, and others crying, but up we went. The day was fine, the scenery sublime, but I will not undertake to describe it. I would say to all visitors to the Pacific Coast to take a trip through Northern California and Southern Oregon. We made short curves, going back almost to the place from which we started; here we came to snow, the first I was in for the season. I must make a snowball, and another, yet up we go; now the glad news comes from those in front, a hotel, which we all hailed with joy, and where we all partook of a healthy supper, for the moderate sum of fifty cents. Passengers kept coming in for nearly two hours. Soon the crack of the stageman's whip was heard, and the heavy stage rolled up in front of the hotel with the remainder of the party, who had given out on the way. Here fresh horses were procured, and this time we made even a steeper climb, but this going up could not always last, and at length the summit was reached amid the shouts of the boys and over a foot of snow. Here this mode of travel came to an end, for the Southern Pacific road has pushed her California branch to the summit of these mountains, and a train was standing there ready to convey us down the southern slope more easily than we ascended the northern. After starting, we passed through a tunnel almost a mile in length. Down we went, a grade of nearly 200 feet to the mile, until we were landed in the narrow valley below, which widened out into a vast prairie and plain. Here another grand view stands out before the eye. On all sides are snow-covered mountains, while everything is green around you. In the distance is Mt. Shasta, over 12,000 feet high, and to the west of it is the valley; with no hill near it looms up another mount some 5,000 feet high. While viewing this grand panorama, night closed and the scene was shut from view. Here I "turned in" and knew no more until Sacramento, the capital of California, was reached, but being not yet daylight I only seen it by electric light. Will H. Sheneman, letter of December 21, 1887, "Still on the Go," Marysville Tribune, Marysville, Ohio, January 4, 1888, page 4 SOUTHERN OREGON.
EDITOR DISPATCH,
YORK, PA.:--Being
a native of York County, as well:as having been a resident thereof for
several years during the early part of my life, I receive occasional
letters from your section making various inquiries about Oregon, of
which state I have now for many years been a resident. With your kind
permission I will endeavor to answer some of these inquiries in your
valuable journal as there are, doubtless, many persons beside my own
personal friends, living in your section, that would like to hear
something about this part of the world.One of these writes: "How is the climate where you live in the winter? I had a discussion on the subject with a gentleman in Wrightsville. He said that he had always understood that our winters were your wet season; but have been informed that you had cold weather also. It would interest me much to know all about such matters, etc." Another says: "In what part of Oregon are you? Are you east of the mountain range, or between that and the coast?" And again: "You speak of the rainy season there, what do you do while it lasts? Read, I suppose."' To the question, "Are you east of the mountain range or between that and the coast?'' I said: "To an Oregonian, your question betrays this fact; namely, that you are not posted quite as well in regard to the physical features of Uncle Sam's domain as we who live here are. You do very well, however, for a non-resident and one who has had no occasion to make a special study of the topographical features of this region," stating, however, that I would answer said question in due time. But at the question, "You speak of the rainy season there, what do you do while it lasts? Read, I suppose," I had to smile; for I saw that the writer quite misapprehended the character of our rainy season. I will now endeavor, as best I may, to answer these questions. And first in regard to the rainy season. In general terms our rainy season corresponds to the winter, and the dry season to our summer, with the spring and the fall months partaking of the characteristics of both. That is to say: the rainy season extends from December to February inclusive, the dry season from June to September inclusive, with spring months and a short time during the fall months partaking, as I said before, of the characteristics of both; all this varying much, however, in different years. Thus some years the rains begin pretty early in the fall, in other years they hold off quite late; and the same is true of the spring months; some years the rains cease early in the spring, in other years they hold on quite late. The rainy season begins therefore, I may say, with occasional rainy spells in October, or perhaps--as when the rains hold off quite late, as they did this fall--not till Nov., and gets fairly underway usually sometime in Dec., and ends generally in Feb. or March with occasional showers or rainy days, or perhaps even short rainy spells, later on. However, during what we may regard as the true rainy season--that is to say, December, January and February--there are are often two or three and sometimes even four or five weeks of continuous fine weather; and that, too, of the finest weather imaginable--clear blue skies, warm sun, and a few early wildflowers, brought forth by the mild weather, peeping above the ground. These spells of fine weather, occurring as they do in midwinter, and we have them almost every winter, are, in fact, the most charming and delightful part of the year. This beautiful weather, so often experienced here during the winter season, is, in fact, one of the chief things that weds all old residents so firmly to this coast. Indeed, some winters (the terms winter and rainy season are here interchangeable, the reader will remember) there is hardly any interruption to the plowing and other farm work, and there are really but few days during an ordinary winter that one cannot work with all convenience at outdoor work. It is true we occasionally have a severe winter, have snow and ice, which interfere for a time with certain kinds of work, as plowing and seeding; but, as a general thing, with the exception of some few days of continued heavy rain, the rainy season, or the winter--as you may please to term it--is here a busy season of outdoor work. We do not, of course, mind a little rain; and often even work between the showers of even a rainy day. So that we do not, here, in Southern Oregon, have to hibernate during the long months of a dismal rainy season, stowed away in some half-darkened and gloomy apartment, miserable beings, living a dreary life, for months at a time without one ray of sunshine or rational enjoyment of any kind. Nor do we for several consecutive months, while said rainy season lasts, have nothing to do but sit around the fire and crack stale jokes, or tell long endless stories about nothing, or perhaps, with more religious zeal, spend our time dissecting the characters of our neighbors. Nor can we, even if our tastes take a more literary turn, find excuse through abundance of rain to sit around for months at a time and read up in whatever subjects might interest us most. Nor are we compelled to spend so long a time reading in a listless sort of way whether we want to or not, simply because the weather will not give us opportunity to do anything else. We have not, I assure my dear reader, attempted here in Southern Oregon to vindicate Darwin by encouraging the development of webs between the phalanges of our pedal extremities, as ye desiccated Californian popularly supposes. That curious feature in the natural history of our species we have left to our more amphibious neighbors of the Willamette Valley to cultivate; and especially to the denizens of that delightful and aquatic region yclept the Long Tom, where, it is said, the good housewife may often be seen during the rainy season, bucket on arm, wading around the yard with a long pole hunting for the well. There, indeed, as we are assured on the testimony of those reliable persons, the early pioneers, the white people had no sooner begun to settle in the country than the boys and girls born therein began to develop the most singular and curious processes between the toes; which curious processes, strange to say, matured into the most complete and perfect web; whereby these people came to be called webfeet, a name by which the good people of this region, and, in fact, of the whole Willamette Valley have been distinguished ever since. No, indeed. To the gentle epithet of Tarhead, a name which the good people of the Willamette have seen fit to retort upon us, we will gracefully submit, but to be called Webfeet--never! But I do not wish, my dear friends, to accuse you of drawing so unfair a picture of us as this; but I did think some of you were under a little misapprehension in regard to the character of our rainy season. I do, indeed, take great pleasure in reading when a rainy day or a rainy spell occurs, and the state of my wardrobe is not such as to compel me to take cognizance of the more or less numerous infractions of integrity in those garments subjected most to daily wear, and to spend my time repairing these not infrequent rents and abrasions which various disaster and the constant and gradual wear through natural causes have occasioned and to which, I am sorry to say, said garments are only too prone to be subject. So much in explanation of the character of our rainy season. Now in regard to that part of Oregon in which I live. In order, however, that the reader may have a better understanding of the various localities of Oregon in general, and of my own neighborhood in particular, before proceeding to tell in what part of Oregon I live, I shall make some explanation in regard to the various localities first. When I was asked whether I lived east of the mountain range or between that and the coast, the writer had reference, of course, to the Cascade Range, as that is the chief mountain range in Oregon, and the one usually represented on the map, the summit of which is, in the main, parallel with, and distant from, the coast about 130 miles. There, is however, another great range in Oregon nearer the coast than the Cascade Range. This is the Coast Range, the western slopes of which extend quite to the ocean throughout almost the whole length of the state. There are nowhere any valleys--at least none of any great extent--between it and the sea. In fact, through almost the whole extent of Oregon, the coast is extremely rugged and mountainous, and is, in most places, quite uninhabitable. The very few settlements that are in that part of the state are mostly at the mouths of the rivers after these have, for the most part, broken through the mountains in deep and rugged canyons. The few exceptions to this I will explain further on. The great valleys of Oregon: namely, the Willamette, the Umpquas, and the Rogue River valleys, which contain within their limits by far the greatest part of the arable land within the borders of the state, lie between these two great mountain ranges. It will not be necessary for my present purpose to enter into any description of the great mountain ranges of the state. It will be necessary, however, to explain that there are, in Oregon, two systems of transverse ridges extending east and west across the country intervening between the two great ranges, and another like system of transverse ridges on the border of Oregon and California. The first of these transverse ridges, the Calapooia Mountains, separates the valley of the Umpqua from the Rogue River Valley; and the third, called the Siskiyou Mountains, is, as I said before, on the border of Oregon and California. Of these transverse ridges the Siskiyous are much the highest. Through the Calapooia Mountains there are three different roads, two of them being over the ridges, and one through by what is called the Pass Creek route where there is no ridge at all to be crossed. Through the Umpqua Mountains and the Rogue River Mountains, including what is called locally the Canyon, the Cow Creek Hills, and the Grave Creek Hills, there is only one wagon road, and only one is reasonably possible. Of the valleys named above, the Willamette Valley is much the largest, being about 50 by 150 miles in extent. It is here popularly called Webfoot, and the inhabitants thereof Webfeet--names suggested by the rainy character of that region. The Umpqua basin, called in a general way the Umpqua Valley, consists of a great number of small valleys separated from each ether by various ranges of hills, there being no one valley of any great extent. In these valleys, however, the soil is very fertile. The climate is delightful; and the whole country is a most beautiful and picturesque region--nearly a paradise, in fact. The Rogue River Valley differs again from either the Willamette or the Umpqua. While there are several smaller valleys, each having its local name, included in what is termed in a general way the Rogue River Valley, there is also one main valley which is more particularly spoken of as the Rogue River Valley, and which includes again some of these smaller valleys, but of whose separate existence apart from the main valley a stranger, looking out over this same main valley from any one of the many favorable points along the old stage road between Jacksonville and Willow Springs, which road here follows along the base of the foothills bordering the west side of the valley--would not have the least idea. Now, all that part of Oregon lying east of the Cascade Range is here called Eastern Oregon; that part lying west of the Cascade Range and north of the Calapooia Mountains is called Western Oregon; and that part west of the Cascade Range and south of the Calapooia Mountains is called Southern Oregon. Southern Oregon does not, the reader will take notice, include all the southern part of the state. Neither does Western Oregon include all the western part of the state; but Eastern Oregon does include all the eastern part of the state. Southeastern Oregon is a term by which the southern part of Eastern Oregon is sometimes designated. What I have said above in regard to the rainy season has no reference whatever to Eastern Oregon. Owing to the great elevation of that section above the sea, the winters there are iron bound. During the winter season there snow and ice reign supreme. The climate, however, is dry, braving and healthful. Even the beef there, owing to the very nutritious character of the grasses and the purity of the water, is of superior richness and flavor. These are not highly colored statements made for effect, remember; they are positive facts. The writer of this resided for a considerable period in Southeastern Oregon. The reader will also remember that in the country west of the Cascade Range the further north the more it rains and the longer the rainy season lasts. If the reader will now refer to a map of Oregon, he will see that, according to the definition given above, Jackson County is in Southern Oregon; and any late map will show that said county lies wholly west of the Cascade Range. Now, therefore, since I am a resident of Jackson County, I live in Southern Oregon and am west of the Cascade Range, but with a very big mountain range between me and the coast. The very few exceptions to the rugged and mountainous character of the coast region I will now proceed to explain. The chief exception to this mountainous character of the coast of Oregon is to be found in the county of Coos. This county is separated from Douglas County--which county includes all the Umpqua country-- by the Umpqua Mountains which here become part of the Coast Range. Here on the Coquille River and on Coos River, as well as on Coos Bay, is much level and very rich bottom land; bat the whole country is exceedingly heavily timbered. Indeed, so heavily timbered is the country here that the only means of communication between the different parts of the settlement is by boat. The timber is the finest in the world. It used to be said that when a hunter killed an elk in this region, he had to cut a way through the timber to get it out. The standing timber itself is not so much in the way as are the immense fallen logs. Another very serious matter is that during the winter pretty much all these bottom lands are overflowed, so that the settler must find some locality where he can build on the spurs or bench lands of the surrounding hills. On Smith River in Douglas County, a stream which flows into the Umpqua River after the latter has debouched from the mountains, there is also a considerable area of heavily timbered bottom land. Of the counties further north, there may be in Tillamook County some level land on the coast; but I have never been in that county and cannot speak from any personal knowledge concerning it. And now something in regard to my own immediate neighborhood and of certain parts of Jackson County and I will bring my communication to a close. I am living, then, I would explain, among the foothills (pretty big mountains, the folks in York County would think them, and very rough and rugged withal) in a well-watered district called Sykes Creek. This stream empties, two and one-half miles below my place, into Evans Creek, a considerable stream which receives several tributary streams in its course, and which, flowing in « southerly course, discharges its water into Rogue River at Woodville, twelve miles from my place. Across the hills west of me, about two miles, is another creek, called Pleasant Creek, which is a larger stream than Sykes Creek, and which also empties into Evans Creek. This also has a tributary stream called Ditch Creek flowing in from the west. Below the mouth of Pleasant Creek there is no stream flowing into Evans Creek large enough to be dignified by the name of creek. Over the ridge east of me there is another small mountain stream called Mays Creek, which also empties into Evans Creek. There is a good trail through a tolerably low gap in the hills to Pleasant Creek. On all these streams mentioned here as flowing into Evans Creek there is an abundance of the finest sugar pine and pitch or yellow pine, together with plenty of red fir and white fir; white cedar and yew also abound. There is also an abundance of black oak and some white oak. There are also many other trees, as the beautiful evergreen madrona, the maple, the ash, the alder, the cottonwood, live oak, chinquapin and dogwood, each useful in its way; but as those mentioned first are the most abundant, as well as the most useful, they are therefore the most important. There is certainly a fine opportunity for someone to do well with a portable steam sawmill. Owing to the fine grazing in many places on the hills through which these streams course, cattle raising is the most important industry here at present. Woodville, which I have spoken of above as being at the mouth of Evans Creek, is situated on the right bank of Rogue River eight miles below Gold Hill and nine miles above Grants Pass, each of which is a much larger place than Woodville. All three are stations on the railroad. Grants Pass and Gold Hill are new towns built since the advent of the railroad. The lower end of the main valley mentioned above is a mile or so above Gold Hill. From this latter place nearly to Grants Pass the valley is quite narrow. At no place is there more than one-half to three-fourths mile of level land intervening between the river and the hills. At some places in fact the hills come quite down to the river. It is a very picturesque region, however, the hills here presenting a pleasing variety in general contour, and being quite different from what they are in Pennsylvania. For the most part they are rough, rugged and steep, and not always covered with timber as they are at the East, characteristics which endear them very much to those of us living here who are lovers of the beautiful and picturesque in natural scenery. The scenery along this part of the river is to me always a feast to the eyes. Central Point and Medford are new and thriving towns on the railroad near the central part of the main valley spoken of above. The latter is at present the principal shipping point of the valley; and both are towns of considerable aspirations. Their central position in the valley, it must be admitted, is quite a feather in their caps. Still further up the valley, and also on the railroad, is the town of Phoenix, where some of the finest flour in Southern Oregon is made. At the upper (south) end of the valley, near the foot of the Siskiyou Mountains, and also on the railroad, is Ashland, the largest town in the valley, and, next to Roseburg, the county seat of Douglas County, the largest in Southern Oregon. Ashland boasts of an academy, a woolen mill, a flour mill and a foundry. The brand of flour made here has long enjoyed a high reputation. And now that the railroad officials have decided to locate here their roundhouse, machine shops and eating station, Ashland may be expected to take its place soon as one of the leading towns of the state. Nestled in a little cove at the base of the foothills on the west side of the valley, about four miles from Central Point and five or six from Medford, is the town of Jacksonville, the county seat of Jackson County, and next to Ashland, the largest town in Rogue River Valley. Jacksonville has a large steam flour mill that does its share of the local business. It has a courthouse of which many counties much wealthier than Jackson might well be proud. Its schools are among the best in the state. The view of the valley (the main Rogue River Valley mentioned above) from almost any point in and about Jacksonville is extremely fine. Indeed, the valley, as seen from Jacksonville, is as lovely a view as one might find in a lifetime of travel. It is worth not merely a visit to Jacksonville to see; it is worth a life in Jacksonville to enjoy. As seen from this place the valley is certainly among the fairest of the fair. If I were to make any prediction I would say that the generations to come in Jackson County will bless the day that secured to them so fair a county seat. In both Jacksonville and Ashland are many pleasant homes in which rare and beautiful flowers and choice shrubbery form a very pleasing feature. Eagle Point and Brownsboro are smaller towns--the former with a valuable water power and flour mill--situated in the eastern [sic] part of the valley. [It was common to assume Grants Pass was north of Medford.] Rock Point, a place hardly large enough to be called a village, but a place of considerable business, is pleasantly situated on Rogue River two miles below Gold Hill and six miles above Woodville, with a gravelly and almost entirely level road between the two latter places. In the old staging days, before the advent of the railroad, this place was one of the pleasantest on the road. Rock Point is fourteen miles from Jacksonville, Woodville is twenty miles; my place is therefore thirty-two miles from Jacksonville. I am also twenty-one miles from Grants Pass; since, to go to any one of the places mentioned above, it is necessary to by way of Woodville, the very high and steep ranges of hills on either side of the lower part of Evans Creek Valley entirely precluding all idea of a wagon road over them. Down the creek, however, to Woodville the road is almost level. There are good bridges over Rogue River at Rock Point, Gold Hill and Grants Pass. There is also the railroad bridge at Gold Hill. In the main valley there is also a fine bridge over Rogue River east of Jacksonville. Rogue River, I will here explain, is a beautiful stream, full of rocks and rapids in many parts of its course. During the summer it is fed by the melting snows of the Cascade Range, and its waters are then clear and cold. Fish, various members of the trout family, chiefly, abound. Sites for extensive water power may be found in many parts of its course. To the many interesting objects in the natural scenery of the river--as the Table Rocks, the beautiful and romantic Rogue River Falls, etc.--only a passing allusion can be made. A short distance above Gold Hill the river flows to the eastward, and the railroad towns spoken of above as being in the main valley are on Bear Creek; but, as I have intimated above, the eye would not distinguish any separate valley. Now, in all this region of Southern Oregon the possibilities of fruit raising are hardly to be overestimated. Especially in the foothills of Jackson and Josephine counties exist all the condition of soil and climate requisite for the production of the most perfect fruit. In the hills about Jacksonville, for miles along the western border of the valley, both the soil and the climatic conditions suited for the successful culture of the grape are said, by those well informed on the subject, to be the best known to the viticulturists (who have investigated the matter) of either Europe or America. This again is no mere boast, remember. The statement here made has its foundation in positive fact. The facts which are the basis of this statement, together with the explanation thereof, would be cheerfully and courteously furnished, I have no doubt, by either the Hon. Robt. A. Miller or Mr. Peter Britt, both citizens of Jacksonville, both practical vineyardists and cultural gentlemen, and whose reliability may be entirely depended on. In fact I confidently look forward to the time when all these hills near Jacksonville will be one continuous vineyard, supporting thousands of industrious families, and adding greatly to the wealth, not merely of Jackson County, but of the state itself. Along the South Umpqua, too, where the conditions of soil and climate are eminently suited for the production of choice fruit, the whole region, I am informed, is fast becoming one continuous prune orchard. In my own neighborhood there is a considerable area of land evidently well suited for the cultivation of the grape; and I am clearing up a homestead here with a view mainly to engaging in that industry myself. This land, I am told, is, in every respect, similar in character to the red hill lands of Sonoma County, Cal., so famous for its fruits and wine. And when we consider the vast market opening up for the sale of this fruit in the extensive territory north and east of us--where the rigors of a boreal climate will not permit the cultivation of the more delicate fruits--the outlook, it must be conceded, is encouraging indeed. We have also a number of mineral springs here which have attained much local celebrity as health resorts. Of these the old Soda Springs above Ashland have been long and favorably known and extensively patronized. The Shovel Creek Springs on the Siskiyous have been attracting much attention lately. And the Sulfur Springs on Evans Creek have acquired some celebrity for their good effects in kidney complaints. Fine opportunity for bathing is also one of the attractions at this place: Fishing is also good. Rock Point, also, might be made a very attractive resort for tourists from the East. The hotel here is quite a large and fine building for a country place and is a well-kept house. Rogue River, too, in this vicinity, is a noted resort for lovers of the art piscatorial; while the climate as well as the scenery are all that could be desired. The railroad mentioned in the several instances shove is the Oregon and California, which extends from Portland, Oregon, to Ashland. It was intended to connect at the state line with the California and Oregon road, to be built north from Sacramento, Cal. The O.&C. was completed to Roseburg, Ogn., in 1872. Work was suspended for want of funds, and the road finally passed into other hands. Work was also suspended on the C.&O. at Redding, Cal., distant from Roseburg 280 miles. In 1882 work was resumed on the O.&C. at Roseburg, and late in the fall of 1883 [sic] the road was completed as far as Ashland, when work was again suspended, the $4,000,000 borrowed to complete the road from Roseburg to the state line being about gone. Work had not as yet been resumed on the C.&O. at Redding. Sometime after these events the Southern Pacific, the big railroad company of California, became the owners of the C.&O., and set themselves to the very difficult task of completing the road. The same company have also leased the O.&C. and are now practically the owners of it also; and, before this comes to hand, the two roads will be connected at Ashland, and the first through train--to be a grand excursion--will have passed over the road. We will then begin to feel that we are about out of the woods at last. The whole Pacific Coast is rapidly filling up with population, and there will be in time an immense freight and passenger business over this road. It will be the main link connecting Portland [with] the towns and cities on Puget Sound, as also those of British Columbia with San Francisco, the metropolis of the Pacific Coast. There will be not alone the local traffic and travel between these points and San Francisco, but all passengers from the East over the Canadian Pacific, the Northern Pacific, or the Union Pacific by way of the Oregon Short Line, desiring to go to San Francisco, will pass over this road. A few, it is true, may go down by sea; but it is believed that most will prefer to go overland. E. W. HAMMOND.
Woodville, Jackson Co., Dec. 10, 1887.Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, December 22, 1887, page 1 OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA.
Letter from Mrs. England-- Stage Ride from Ashland to Siskiyou--Mt. Shasta. SANTA BARBARA, Dec. 12, 1887.
ED. STATESMAN:--Thinking
perhaps a few words descriptive of the journey from Salem, Oregon, to
Santa Barbara, Cal., would not be amiss, I take the liberty of writing
this letter. From Salem to San Francisco there was nothing of special
interest, if we except the stage ride from Ashland to Siskiyou, which
is at the end of the thirteen-mile ride. The day before we crossed
there had been a light fall of snow, and there was still some snow
falling. The road is level and in very good condition for mountain
road; nevertheless it takes five hours to make the thirteen miles. The
reason it takes so long a time is because it is a gradual and
oftentimes steep ascent the entire way, with the exception of a few
hundred yards which are a plunge downward. The mountains were grand,
with the dark evergreen trees hanging heavily laden with their soft,
fleecy, clinging burdens of newly fallen snow. We were warm and
comfortable inside the coaches, and I think I never saw a merrier or
better-natured party than we were. Instead of its being a hardship to
cross the mountains in the snow, I shall always remember it as one of
the pleasantest rides I ever took. They did certainly have fine,
strong, well-kept horses to draw us, and, as there were six horses to
each coach, and although were packed in sardine-like (there being
eighteen persons in and on each coach) yet we were jolly and every body
seemed happy. We stopped at the Siskiyou House for dinner, and a
wretched meal was served. Someone reading the sign over the door asked
what the word Siskiyou meant, when someone else replied, thinking more
of our indifferent dinner than the real interpretation of the word,
that it was the Indian for bobtail.
To this interpretation I believe everyone felt like giving a hearty
Amen! But now we were soon in the cars, shot through a long tunnel, and
riding through the wild winter scenery of the grand old mountains,
prominent above which stands the Pilot Rock, which appears, stately,
grand and majestic, first on one side of the car windows and then on
the other as we wind in and out of the ravines.But by far the most inspiring sight in these majestic mountains is Mount Shasta, the grandly beautiful. Who can describe this hoary monarch of the mountains as he deserves, especially when just reclothed with the ermine of snow which the king of winter weaves and drapes about his mighty form? Words are powerless to tell how grandly beautiful and vast he seems as we draw nearer and nearer until we are within three miles of this king of mountains. It has been snowing until in the afternoon, and Shasta is recrowned by another and greater king than he--the king of the day. A purple cloud just crowned its highest peak, while all the body of the mountain was perfectly clear and bright with an indescribable glow of beauty. The rays of light shown through the cloud until it seemed that just hidden by the airy drapery of cloud-mist there must be a giant angel form pouring golden fire and rosy light upon the mountain top from from some shining censer, and it seemed to leap far down the mountainsides like streams of gold, and fill the deep ravines with purple and rose-colored light. Then, there seemed to be a strange and indescribable glow, that I had never seen before, as if that vast and awful pile was illuminated from within with wonderful many-colored lights. One can not imagine how grand great mountains are unless they are near them after the first fall of snow and view them in the brilliant sunset's glow. As we glided almost spirit-like past it all in warm and comfortable cars, I thought how different the picture must seem to us than what it did to those early pioneers who toiled and struggled over these rugged steeps and through these deep ravines. But I have dwelt so long upon the beauties of Mount Shasta that for fear I have wearied the reader beyond all patience I shall defer all attempts of a description of Los Angeles and the Eden of Santa Barbara until a future time. OLIVE S. ENGLAND.
Oregon Statesman, Salem, December 23, 1887, page 6FRANK PIXLEY
OF THE ARGONAUT TELLS WHAT HE SAW ON HIS RECENT TRIP.
The road from Redding to Roseburg is one of the most picturesque in
America, we may say the world, for we have seen no other railway so
long through a country so wholly beautiful. The scenery of the Denver and Rio Grande,
and here and there a bit upon the Sierra, is more startling and
sensational, higher elevations of rocks, scenery more abrupt, but for
sustained and varying beauty, mountains, valleys, farms, fields,
forests and and streams, great mountains, grand rivers, we recall
nothing comparable with the trip we have recently taken. Our own Mount
Shasta, with the snow-covered buttes of the Lassen, Mounts Hood,
Rainier, St. Helens, Baker, Jefferson, and Adams together form a group
not exceeded for beauty and grandeur elsewhere in the world. There are
a hundred miles of forest lying along the upper Sacramento, and thence
to the summit of the Siskiyou Mountain, that by some cooperation
between Congress and the railroad company should be preserved as a
national park. The sawmill is already doing its devilish work in
demolishing the beauty of the forests.
Oregon Register, Lafayette, Oregon, December 30, 1887, page 5 Last revised August 29, 2026 |
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