Editors Recorder:
    Your valuable paper comes to hand every week and is always anxiously looked for. It answers for a letter from old friends.
    Well, my friend McBride's letter has caused me to write this. His big potato and pumpkin story may start someone here, unless the balance of the story is told. There are some varieties of potatoes here that grow to weigh 5 or 6 pounds, and some of the best bottom land, say along the river edge or where it is irrigated, this bottom land produces some more potatoes than Kansas land, but they are not near as good quality. Upland here does not produce half such potatoes as Kansas does.
    Ashland is one hundred and forty miles south of here, and that big (premium) pumpkin story has grown 100 pounds in going that far. It is reported here to have weighed 200 pounds. That big pumpkin must have grown in Oregon. They all say it did, yet this is the poorest county for pumpkins that I have ever lived in, or any other vines. They do no good only in sandy bottom land.
    Wheat and wool are the main articles of export from Oregon, and both are grown successfully, and of as good quality as any place on this continent. Ten or twelve bushels is a very fair average of wheat to be raised to the acre in the Umpqua Valley, although 30 is often raised, and sometimes more. East of the Cascade Mountains they raise more to the acre than here, but the quality is not quite so good. Oregon can't be beat for fruit, but one section of land in Kansas will produce more grass than a township of this part of Oregon. East of the mountains, however, they say is a good grass country. I think Oregon some easier a country to live in than Kansas, yet I do not advise any person to come here, from the fact that such a large percent that come here get the "blues" and wish themselves back again, especially those that only have money enough to bring them here. They are more like icicles than emigrants; however, most people after they live here four or five years they become reconciled to Oregon, and many would not live in any other country. This is a very healthy country, with one exception; there is lots of lung and throat diseases, such as bronchitis and consumption. Many come here with these diseases, but they have come to the wrong place.
    Cattle raising does not pay well here; we are too far from market, although they live in the mountains the year round without feed.
    It commenced to rain here in September and spoiled considerable wheat in the stack, and the plow could run in October. Part of October, November, and part of December, we had regular Oregon rain and mud. The last three weeks the weather has been fine. New Year's night was the first time the ground has been frozen here in the valley, although eight or ten miles up in the mountains it froze two inches a month ago. Every night since January 1st, the ground has frozen about one inch, but the frost goes out next day.
The Recorder, Holton, Kansas, January 31, 1878, page 5  More from Whinery here. McBride's answer is below.

    The Pacific Coast embraces such a large area of desirable land which is open for settlement that it is somewhat bewildering to the immigrant to decide which locality will suit him best, and be most likely to provide him with a comfortable home. Different sections of the [Pacific] Slope, however, are adapted to different people, and the most that we can do is to present the facts and leave them for the consideration of our readers.
    We had occasion to make a trip through a portion of Southern Oregon and, during our stay, we traveled principally on horseback. We had an excellent opportunity to judge of its resources and what advantages it offers to persons who desire to settle in a comparatively new country where land is cheap and timber and water abundant. The territory which we traversed was but thinly settled, and as yet no railroad has penetrated it, but the arrival of the iron horse is but a question of time, for the agricultural productions of this part of the state are already of considerable value, and when the large tracts are divided up into small farms, the carrying trade of Southern Oregon will be immense.
    The principal towns of Jackson County are Ashland and Jacksonville, both of which we visited, and were much pleased with the thrift and enterprise which the inhabitants seemed to possess.
    Ashland is located upon a creek which is admirably adapted for manufacturing purposes, and the town already possesses a woolen and flour mill. The former of these employs twelve hands and manufactures blankets, flannels, cassimeres and broadcloth of excellent quality. A tailor's shop is connected with the factory, and altogether the institution is of great benefit to the town, adding much to its prosperity. Messrs. Wagner, Anderson & Co. are the proprietors. The flour mill appeared to be doing a satisfactory business, and ought to prosper with the rich country surrounding it. There are three general stores in Ashland, an excellent drug store kept by Dr. J. H. Chitwood, a gunsmith and barber shop, blacksmith shops, hotels, etc., etc.
    We had the pleasure of being present at the reunion of the pioneers of Southern Oregon. The exercises were very interesting. * * * We also attended the dinner given on the occasion, which was tastily arranged under the trees, and altogether had an exceeding pleasant time. We think Ashland is destined to become one of the largest and most important trade centers in Southern Oregon, and we shall endeavor from time to time to chronicle its progress.
    We next passed through a fertile though not very thickly settled country and reached Jacksonville, which is distant about seventeen miles from Ashland. Here we found a flourishing town with a population of about 1,000. The people are engaged in mining, agriculture and stock raising, and are also anxiously waiting for the railroad which will build up their section and give them a share of the immigrants which have been pouring into Oregon during the past few years.
    At Wilderville, in Josephine County, distant about thirty-five miles from Jacksonville, there is a flourishing settlement. Mr. Wilder is constructing an excellent road to Kerbyville, which is much needed. An attempt will be made to remove the county seat to Wilderville at the election next June, and we should judge that the town is situated in a favorable position to fulfill the duties of that dignified situation. Mr. R. D. Hume is represented at this place by Mr. W. T. Whili [W. T. Bailey?], who is manufacturing sugar pine lumber in large quantities. Mr. Hume has quite extensive canneries at the mouth of Rogue River, and owns the steamer Alex. Duncan, which makes three trips per month between the river and San Francisco.
    Mr. Wilder, the founder of Wilderville, has made Southern Oregon his home for the past ten years, and is confident that his section has a bright future before it. The land surrounding the little town produces fine crops of oats and other cereals. The hotel is conducted in an admirable manner by Mr. Knight, and the people are generally hospitable and endeavor to make a stranger feel at home. An important industry has been inaugurated by A. M. Jess, Esq., who lives about two miles from Wilderville. He has succeeded in raising tobacco of good quality and has also a manufactory where he is working it up into quite a good article.
    Kerbyville is distant from Wilderville about 18 miles. The new road will be an easy grade, and the manner in which it has thus far been constructed is very creditable. It will be very convenient as there is considerable travel between the two towns. Mining is going on in the vicinity of Kerbyville, and prospectors are busy.
    There is no doubt that the mineral resources of Southern Oregon will add much to its prosperity for many years. While it is not probable that a "big bonanza" will be developed, we believe that but a small portion of the mineral deposits of this section has as yet been discovered. We are satisfied from all reports that this portion of our sister state, which we had the pleasure of visiting, is fully equal to any other in fertility and mineral wealth. We are confident that persons who make their home there will, if they do not accumulate a fortune, at least secure a comfortable livelihood.--Hall's Illustrated Land Journal.
Ashland Tidings, March 1, 1878, page 1


Editors Recorder:
    The Sacramento River has overflowed the country south of us and cut off our mail, so that we have had no news from Holton since the 8th of February. So you see we are becoming desperate for want of the Jackson County news; so I thought I would break the spell and try my luck in sending you a few lines.
    I see in the Recorder of January 31st a letter from Oakland, Oregon, written by my old friend Jason Whinery. He says that my letter in the Recorder a few numbers before had caused him to write. It was very kind in Mr. Whinery making an apology for me and warning the people of Kansas not to come to Oregon on account of my big potato and pumpkin story. I confess I was not the least alarmed in this direction, for I knew my old friends in Kansas, especially those of Jackson County, are too well supplied with the good things of the land to undertake the long and hazardous journey of immigrating to Oregon for the sake of big potatoes and pumpkins. My friend W. says this is an easier country to live in than Kansas. He ought not to have said so, for people will risk almost anything to get to a country where they can live easy. But, while this may be so, we also have some evidence that they die easy here too, which might be some inducement for immigrants to find their way to this country. This prompts me to record a remarkable incident that occurred here last week. Mr. and Mrs. Miller, two old and highly esteemed citizens of Ashland, died in one day, within two hours of each other. Mr. Miller was 72 years old; his wife was 73. Mr. Miller was a remarkable stout man, but was taken down with lung fever, and, after a few days sickness, he died in peace, having professed faith in Christ years ago. Mrs. Miller was taken down while waiting on her husband, and hearing of his death while confined to her bed in an adjoining apartment, gave some directions about his burial, gathered up her feet and departed in peace. Having lived together over 50 years in peace and happiness, they went home together the same day to enjoy the rewards of a glorious immortality. Their remains were carried to the Ashland cemetery, accompanied by a large procession of kind friends, who laid them side by side in one grave. The funeral services were conducted by Prof. Skidmore, who is the right man in the right place on such solemn occasions.
    A few words about the country and I am done. I am receiving a good many letters asking advice in regard to immigrating to this country. In this regard I have no advice to give, although my friend W. fears there is some danger of people coming to this country on the strength of my former letters, but I think I am safe in saying that I have not said a word in regard to my opinion of this country in general since I left Holton. I have seen the upper side of a good many broad acres, but I am free to say that I have seen no better country than Kansas for all purposes. Kansas is a much prettier country than Oregon, and a great deal more of it. More than one half of this state is mountainous, though these mountains are yearly developing new mines, many of which are being worked successfully, and thousands of dollars worth of gold will be taken out of these mines this summer in this part of the state. Stock raising is pretty well overdone in this part of Oregon. Small grain is raised here successfully without irrigating. This is no corn country; one acre of Kansas land is worth three of this for corn. Vegetables are successfully raised here by irrigating. Farmers have some encouragement to work here, for whatever they plant or sow they are sure to reap if they do their part as a husbandman, but the most of them are too lazy to work. One Kansas farmer will do about as much work as three Oregonians. If Kansas had as fine a climate as we have here it would be the finest state in the Union. This is the first of March, and flowers, plum, peach and almonds are out in bloom. Fruit is a sure crop here, and small fruit of all kinds are grown in great quantities. I have been told that strawberries grow so large here that they have to quarter them in order to get them in their mouths, and their mouths are not very small either. I am afraid I am occupying too much space in your valuable paper, but I must say to my old friends that we are all well and enjoy the best of health. I have not enjoyed as good health for several years.
The Recorder, Holton, Kansas, March 28, 1878, page 4  More McBride here.


    At 5 o'clock p.m., on the first day of last week, we boarded one of the O.&C. Stage Co.'s elegant coaches, bound for Yreka. We took our seat on the "hurricane deck," by the side of that famous "old whip," Ab. Giddings, who was going as passenger. Nort Eddings, the regular driver, discovered an opportunity, and, by a little sharp practice, succeeded in placing "Ab." at the end of the "strings."
    We arrived at Major Barron's and halted to change horses and get supper. After doing ample justice to Mrs. B.'s most excellent repast, we were soon wheeling up the mountain over the smooth grades of the "Siskiyou Wagon Road," amidst the grand solitude of the magnificent forests that beautify Old Siskiyou's northern slope.
    The temperature of the evening was all that could be desired, and we were fanned by a fine northern breeze, in grateful contrast with the heat of the day. Just before reaching the summit, a general silence ensued. Each passenger, and I think the driver may be included in the list, seemed anxiously peering ahead as far as the light of the lamps made the roadside visible. Nort at last broke the silence, and, pointing his whip to a clump of bushes on the left, said in somewhat suppressed tones, "There's the place; they always come out along here." Not another word was spoken until we were wheeling down the mountains where robbers never show themselves.
    At 10 o'clock, the moon rose and as it broke over the mountains, the smoky atmosphere magnified it to gigantic proportions. The mountains, with their ragged outlines made visible through the smoke by the rising moon, with their bases hid in their own dense shadows, stood like perpendicular walls against the sky, making, altogether, a scene more grand and imposing than "daylight e'er presents."
    We enjoyed the ride all the more in consequence of being in company with a very intelligent lady with whom we shared the outside seat. She, with her husband, Mr. Geo. McKnight, has been, for several weeks, visiting friends near Rock Point, and they are so much pleased with our country that they were returning to their home in Weaverville, California, to make immediate preparations for making Jackson County their permanent home.
    We arrived at Yreka at 3 o'clock a.m. and were soon occupying an elegant room at the Franco American. Next morning, we took a stroll around town and met a number of old-time friends, through whom we soon became pretty generally acquainted.
    Dr. Hearn suspended his own business and accompanied us on a general raid around town in behalf of the Tidings. Mr. H. Dunkel, who does business on the old site of the "Round Tent" where, in days of yore, we used to buy our "grub," etc., was our first subscriber. We found Mr. Dunkel to be a gentleman.
    Among the old Jackson County people we met were Pat F. McMannus and his lady. He is doing an extensive mercantile business, besides, as usual, dabbling in livestock--he still has a keen appreciation of a fine horse. Mr. Ed. Autenreith, who captured one of our Jackson County girls, Miss Emma Plymale, is practicing law in Yreka.
    With Dr. Hearn we visited the new cemetery, which has been laid out and is now being improved under the auspices of the Odd Fellows. They have disposed of portions of it to the Red Men and other societies. It contains twenty acres and is accessible to an abundance of water for irrigation and is altogether one of the finest sites for the purpose we have ever seen.
    We next visited the district school house and were very much surprised to find such an edifice in a town the size of Yreka. It is built of brick, two stories high and was completed in 1870 at a cost of $30,000. It is filled with all the modern improvements and appliances. It contains a full set of mathematical and scientific instruments, charts, globes, etc. The recitation rooms are so arranged that each two on either side of the hall can be opened out into one, in case of lectures or other public performances. This school house would be a credit to a city of ten thousand inhabitants.
    We found nothing in Yreka during our visit that interested us more than the mineral cabinet collected and owned by Dr. F. G. Hearn. It contains specimens from every mine of any note on the Pacific Coast, besides a large collection of Indian antiquities and historical reliques of the country. To the geologist especially, many things in his collection are extremely interesting. Many specimens shown by the Dr. would seem to require either the abandonment of old theories, or a skillful explanation by learned experts. Among other things to be explained is how came gold-bearing rock in the Lava Beds of Lake County, Oregon. And, further, how came gold in the peculiar kind of igneous conglomerate in which it has been found there. He has specimens of porphyry, calcareous spar and various minerals, containing free gold, positively contradicting long-established theories.
    At ten o'clock on Wednesday evening, we bid goodbye to a number of friends who were awaiting to see us off. We took our seat by the side of "Nort," as the only passenger aboard, and set out for "Cottonwood." As the stage rolled down Yreka Creek, our mind reverted back to days long gone. And, as we passed Blue Gulch, Long Gulch and other places which were familiar in the days of our earliest manhood, we were sensibly reminded of the time when we looked upon "an ounce a day" as but indifferent recompense and a "slow road to fortune." We passed within a stone's throw of where we let a fortune slip through our grasp, and yet, we contemplated it with an emotion akin to pleasure--certainly without a regret. Ay, we would not, if we could, change the result of those days. Could we have known what was in our reach, the whole course of our life must inevitably have been changed for better or worse. Our present social and domestic relations must have been different from what they are. We judge others by ourself when we say that most people would not give up present joys to get rid of present miseries. If there is an individual on top of earth who would sacrifice his brightest pleasure to disenthrall himself of all his griefs and hardships, we pity that man from the very depths of our soul, for he is, indeed, miserable--just such as suicides are made of.
    We fear that we have soared above our subject and lost our trail. We shall, therefore, leave the remainder of our trip until next week.
Ashland Tidings, August 30, 1878, page 2


    On Friday afternoon of last week, Adam Klippel returned from the state of Oregon, where he has been sojourning for the past nine months. He looks bronzed and hearty, and his trip has evidently agreed with him. Six out of the nine months he has spent in the mountains of Southwestern Oregon and Northern California, prospecting for the precious metals with which the country abounds, climbing mountains, descending into deep canons, cutting trails over mountains and through dense forests, and locating and constructing a wagon road to a country that had heretofore only been penetrated by footmen and pack animals. He has been "roughing it" in a very healthy, but very rugged mountainous country, which for grand scenery and romantic picturesqueness cannot be surpassed on the American continent. He says the proportion of good agricultural valley land in Southern Oregon, between the Cascade Mountains and Pacific Ocean, a distance of over two hundred miles, is about one acre in every five or twenty miles of valley and eighty miles of mountains--the latter towering high up in the air in all shapes and in every direction. The valley of central Rogue River, twenty-four miles wide and forty-five long, Mr. K. says, is undoubtedly the garden spot of the Pacific Coast, and its climate is as near perfection as it well can be. Running streams, rushing down from the surrounding mountains, flow from opposite directions through the valley into the Rogue River. The people inhabiting this valley are all old settlers, having moved there with their families from different states of the Union in 1862, '63, '64 and '65, and since those years few, if any, additions have been made by immigration. The original immigrants own the lands of this valley in tracts varying from 640 acres to 1,000 acres. Very many of the farmers own many thousands more. As a consequence, close farming is out of question. And gold mining and stock raising being considered the most remunerative and chief industries of Southern Oregon, there are but few farmers in the valley but what are also interested in a mine and some sheep or cattle ranch in the mountains. The opportunities to embark in enterprises of this kind are too great to be resisted, hence the Rogue River Valley farmer, besides owning more good farming land than he can tend to, most always has too "many irons in the fire."
    Mr K. says the mountains of Southern Oregon are generally well timbered and watered, and the climate of the Rogue River country is excellent. Copper, iron, coal, and the precious metals abound, but the labor and expense of securing them are greater than most people in the States have an idea of. Parties who are comfortably situated in the States and make a reasonable good living (especially in such a good county as Holt) should be careful to "pull up stakes" and go to such a new country as Oregon. The difficulty of getting there and the danger of landing in a country without acquaintances, friends and money have reduced many an emigrant to extreme penury and want; California is full of such people and Oregon is getting more than her share.
Holt County Sentinel, Holt, Kansas, May 10, 1878, page 3


    We left our readers last week on a side track over about Long Gulch. We will now switch on, and proceed on our way to Cottonwood, where we arrived at two o'clock, and laid over for the purpose of seeing the town by daylight. When morning came, we saw the cozy little town for the first time by daylight. The first thing that attracted our attention was the fine orchards and comfortable-looking dwellings that composed the town. A fine-looking farm lay adjoining the southeast portion of the town, on which the threshers were busily threshing alfalfa. We were informed that the land in that vicinity produced 200 lbs. of this seed to the acre, valued at 25 cts. a pound, making a very profitable crop.
    The business of the town at present consists of one store, one hotel, one blacksmith shop, the post office and telegraph office. The store is owned and kept by Ed. Doneghy, whom we found to be a very genial and enterprising man. We were surprised to see so large a stock of goods in a place so small. His stock is not only large but contains everything likely to be required in the community, from a suit of clothes or a sack of salt to a dose of pills, or a bottle of soothing syrup.
    Mr. A. Schultz, formerly of this county, is running the blacksmith shop, and we are glad to learn that he is being well patronized, as he is a good mechanic.
    During the day, we visited the claims of Wm. H. Smith, almost in the town limits. These are the only claims now being worked by white men, the water in the other claims being dried up for the season. It reminded us very much of old times, as we sat by and saw the yellow "scads" occasionally shine through the dirt, as the pick broke down the bank. These claims are in a level field, and appear to be inexhaustible, as there are many acres that look as well as where they work; and as they have a monopoly of the water, they can take a lifetime in working it.
    We took supper with Mr. and Mrs. Fultz. We were very deeply interested during the evening by Mrs. Fultz in her reminiscences of pioneer days, she being one of the survivors of the Whitman massacre in 1847. Her two brothers, John and Frank Sager, were killed in that bloody affair. Mrs. Fultz, although quite young at the time, remembers the incidents of those terrible days with all the vividness and detail of childhood's days. Mrs. Fultz and her daughters have charge of the post office and telegraph office.
    When we retired, the sky was overcast with clouds, and a steady rain set in. At half past 2 o'clock a.m. the stage arrived, and we took our seat beside the driver in a "drenching" rain, which continued unabated until day. We arrived at home in due time, to find that it had not rained near so much as it had beyond the mountains. Altogether, we had a very interesting trip, adding materially to the interest of the Tidings.
Ashland Tidings, September 6, 1878, page 2