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The Infamous Black Bird Southern Oregon History, Revised


Jackson County 1868


    Rogue River Valley, occupying the extreme southern portion of western Oregon, and extending into California, is a broken country, or series of valleys, separated by rolling highlands, covered in some places with dense forests of fir and cedar, and in others thinly timbered with oak, and finely set with grass. It is a very good country for farming, and a superior one for stock raising. Rogue River is not navigable on account of its numerous cascades. Like all the western  portion of the state, this valley is well watered by numerous mountain streams, which are sufficiently large to afford motive power for running any amount of machinery. It is thinly populated, and would furnish homes for an indefinite number of immigrants. Jacksonville, its principal town, is a place of some importance as a mining town.
Report of J. Ross Brown on the Mineral Resources of the States and Territories West of the Rocky Mountains, U.S. Government Printing Office, 1868, page 587


The Klamath Lake Country.
    An interesting article about the Klamath Lake country appears in a late number of the Yreka Journal. We give the material portions of the Journal's article:
    "The extensive region of country in the vicinity of Klamath, Tule and Goose lakes is now in a fair way of being speedily settled up for farming and ranching purposes, and destined to build up a trade that will be of great wealth to whatever place is enterprising enough to secure it. The entire country north of this place as far as John Day's River and east to Idaho is a continuous range for cattle, covered with a luxuriant growth of bunchgrass, which is regarded as a superior feed for stock. There are also thousands of acres of the finest land for agricultural purposes to be found anywhere, that only needs tilling to make it abundant in the production of cereals, plants and fruits customary to the climate of California and Oregon. The lakes and rivers also afford excellent opportunities for irrigation, and by very little effort in digging the outlet of Klamath Lake thousands of acres of marsh lands could be uncovered for agricultural purposes. All the streams are navigable for flatboats, and large vessels can sail comfortably for 40 miles on the lake and 80 miles up Sprague River towards Fort Klamath. Good landing can also be effected almost any place along the lake or Sprague River, as the water is quite deep close to the banks. On the south side of the lakes, as well as on the islands in the lakes, there is an abundance of good timber of every variety, but on the northeastern side the country is almost barren of trees or shrubbery, though the soil is good. Some sixty or seventy claims have already been taken up in the vicinity of Link and Lost rivers, and there are great improvements in progress on the reservation at the mouth of Sprague River, where a saw mill and grist mill will be put up this summer, as well as a large tract of land cultivated with grain. At Link River, where the principal settlement is at present, another saw mill is to be put up, thus affording excellent opportunities for settlers to build boats toward supplying the country and transporting produce to market. The people of Link River are anxious to do their trading with Yreka in preference to Jacksonville, although they belong to that county, for the reason that they can get to Yreka at all seasons of the year. A good wagon road now runs from Yreka to Killibrew's ferry on the Klamath, turning off from the Oregon road at Jas. Bradley's ranch towards Bogus, in reference to which we learn a petition is to be presented to the Board of Supervisors, asking to have this private road declared a public highway. From Killibrew's ferry to the old emigrant or Applegate road, there needs to be but seven or eight miles of road built, which will connect us with the Klamath Lake country, as well as opening a direct road to Surprise Valley. This short piece of road could be built at a trifling expense and render Yreka within seven miles as near the Klamath Lake as Cottonwood, or sixty-five miles from Yreka to Link River. Mr. Nurse, the sole trader of that section at present, who has two trading posts, came into town last Monday for goods to replenish a portion of his needed assortment, and says this is the best place for him to purchase goods if the road is opened from Killibrew's to the Applegate road, from the fact that he could team cheaper by getting goods via Red Bluff than packing from Jacksonville and getting goods via Crescent City. The California and Oregon boundary line is to be reestablished by a commission, for which Congress appropriated $35,000, and it is believed by the settlers [it] will make the line 12 miles further south than is now claimed, thus taking from our county nearly all of Little Klamath Lake, Tule Lake, all that section on a parallel from a little this side of Killibrew's ferry to the Nevada line. The Oregon authorities have been surveying the whole country in that section, of which upwards of 140,000 acres are school lands donated to Oregon, running out into the Goose Lake Valley and the head of Surprise Valley. The prospects are very favorable soon for a new county being established in Southeastern Oregon, as well as a new county in Northeastern California. The Modocs are all to be taken in on the reservation the coming summer, leaving the entire country open for settlement, and we learn that a school will be opened for the education of the Indians, toward civilizing them."
Morning Oregonian, Portland, March 10, 1868, page 2


    ASHLAND.--We paid a visit to Ashland this week, and find that it has outgrown any place in the county during the past year. It now numbers two stores, a flouring mill, a woolen mill, which will be in running order this fall, two saw mills, a hotel, a blacksmith shop, a cabinet maker's shop, marble tomb stone works, and a nursery for growing young fruit trees. The village is pleasantly located on a small stream of the same name, which supplies abundant water power for all the machinery that is used. Before long, if the place improves as it bids fair to do now it will rival towns of more pretensions.
Oregon Sentinel,
Jacksonville, May 2, 1868, page 3



Resources of Rogue River Valley.
    We receive letters of inquiry from time to time from persons in the eastern states and elsewhere, wishing to emigrate to this valley. For the information all such we have compiled the following brief and impartial summary of facts:
GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.
    What is generally known as Rogue River Valley proper comprises more particularly the western portion of Jackson County, though the tributaries of Rogue River drain Josephine County likewise (these being the southernmost counties of the settled portion of Oregon) and bordering on California. It includes that tract of country which is drained by the waters of Rogue River or Gold River, which rises in the Cascade Mountains and flows west into the Pacific Ocean. In extent and population it forms an influential part of the state.
CLIMATE.
    Like all the Pacific Coast the climate is equable the year round. The thermometer rarely reaches 100 in the hottest summer days, while in winter frosts are so unusual or so slight that vegetables are often kept in open garrets during the whole winter without freezing. Our chief rains come in winter. In summer there are generally several months of little or no rain. Though this valley, we think, affords a happy medium between the excessive droughts and dust of California and the protracted rains of northern Oregon and Washington.
RESOURCES.
    The chief industry of this valley is devoted to mining and grazing or stock raising. The gold mines are inexhaustible, or are limited only by the supply of water. Probably nowhere on the coast is there so large a body of farming land in the immediate vicinity of extensive gold mines.
MINERALS.
    We have gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, zinc, nickel, salt, coal and marble. Of these the gold, salt and marble have already been successfully worked. The rest are undeveloped, but capable and destined to become so in a few years.
MINERAL SPRINGS.
    Of these we have several varieties. There are several salt springs, one hot spring of white sulphur, one black sulphur, and the eastern portion of the valley abounds in soda springs all more or less impregnated with iron. These, with the well-known salubrity of our climate, are destined to become more or less a resort for invalids.
TIMBER
    of many varieties exists here, and is conveniently distributed all over the valley. That used by manufacturers is generally fir, pine, cedar and oak. We have plenty of good wood for fencing and fuel. Most of the wood used for fuel is oak, laurel and fir. Our oak, however, a species of white oak, is of an inferior quality to that mostly found in the East. Our black oak works up neatly into cabinet ware.
SOIL.
    Our soil along the watercourses is mostly an alluvial deposit, and on higher ground a sandy loam. All the cereals grow to perfection--wheat for instance yields an average of twenty-five bushels to the acre, and that without manuring. All our hills are adapted to grazing. The luxuriant grass remains green all the year except one or two months. Livestock is often left to shift for itself all the year; in fact, feeding in winter is very rare. Grapes grow prodigiously on our soil, and are destined to become one of the staple products. All kinds of fruit and berries do well. Horticulture is quite successful, but owing to the dryness of midsummer it is managed best by irrigation.
MANUFACTURES.
    Lumber, flour &c. are manufactured mostly for consumption in the mining districts. For these purposes there are mills all over the valley. Our woolen mill, recently started, will afford a ready market for the large annual yield of wool.
MARKETS.
    The gold mines consume most of our flour, bacon, beef, butter, cheese, vegetables, at fair prices, but owing to the high mountains and rugged roads which surround this valley, our outside market for bulky articles is limited. Transportation being difficult and costly, what we export is chiefly gold and livestock. These always bring the cash. Some future time we will probably be able to export wine, woolen fabrics and various kinds of minerals. Capital and enterprise are very limited there as yet, but we trust that the necessities of commerce will before many years build a railroad through this valley to connect California with the north, and afford an easy access to every kind of market.
PRICES.
    Improved farming land ranges from five to twenty dollars per acre. Plenty of government land can still be had here at government price. Farming implements, whether made here or imported, are high. Wheat ranges from 50 to 75 cents per bushel, oats from 40 to 60; potatoes from $1.50 to $3 per 100 pounds; apples 50 cts. to $1 per bushel. First-rate stock commands a high price here. But there are great numbers of Indian and Mexican ponies here, and other inferior stock which can be had for a trifle. For common labor, white men get from $25 to $50 per month (in gold), though Chinese labor can be procured for much less, probably half. Mechanics get from four to six dollars per day; clothing, groceries and other transported goods, owing to the cost of transportation, are high.
GAME.
    Our hills abound in elk, deer, antelope, bear, cougars, wolves, ducks, grouse and quails, and the streams in salmon and trout.
SCHOOLS.
    There are good public and private schools, though the present population being mostly from the western states do not seem to appreciate their advantages as well as they might, and as a consequence many of our people are lacking in that thrift and enterprise which is found in some newly settled portions of the country. There are churches of several denominations.
POPULATION.
    The entire valley numbers about 8,000 souls. Most of these are from the older states. There are many Germans and Irish. Next in number comes the Chinese. There are few French and Norwegians. There are very few Indians, and these are only visitors, being subject to the reservation rules of the U.S. government.
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, May 8, 1868, page 2


Facts for the People.
    A speaker at the "bread-and-butter" meeting in Jacksonville on Saturday last made a statement that we cannot allow to pass unnoticed. He declared that when the Republican Party in this county went out of power the county was deeply in debt, and county warrants worth only thirty-five cents on the dollar. The reverse is exactly the case, and we dare any man to disprove it. When the Republican Party of Jackson County came into power in 1862 the county was sixteen thousand dollars in debt, and its warrants selling as low as thirty cents. In 1866, when the "bread-and-butter" Democracy assumed the control of the county, not a single dollar was owing; there was money in the treasury, and scrip was payable on presentation. These are actual facts, well known by every citizen who has been a resident of this county since 1862. They are proved by the official exhibits of the county, and any person who can stand before the people and make such a false statement as was made on the occasion referred to must either be very ignorant, very unscrupulous, or have a wonderful degree of effrontery.
    Now we ask: What have the "bread-and-butter" administrations done for the county? How have they lightened the burdens of the people? Let us see. From the organization of the county in 1852, to the present time, nearly four hundred thousand dollars have been taken from the pockets of the people in the form of taxes. Where has this immense sum gone? How has it been applied? Look at our county buildings. A court house scarcely fit for a barn, a jail somewhat like a "spring house" on a first-class Pennsylvania farm, and a dingy and dilapidated building in which are the Clerk and Sheriff's offices, comprise them. Look round at our roads and bridges. Start out to California, and it is over a toll road. Travel northward, and you pay toll at the crossing of Rogue River. Go east, and a ferry on the same stream compels you to put your hand in your pocket again. Westward, you are stopped by Applegate, which at times is impassable for want of a bridge. How many head of stock have been stolen since the organization of the county without the thieves being punished? Facts are stubborn things, and if the people of this county will look around and ask themselves how the taxes have been applied, they will fail to find any answer. The people of this county pay a heavy sum annually for hospital purposes. How are the sick poor provided for? In nearly every instance by charitable contributions. It is not a month since a collection was taken up to aid a sick miner and enable him to go to San Francisco for medical assistance. It is notorious that the county hospital has been so badly conducted that it is the dread of our sick poor, and a disgrace to a civilized community; and if people pay a tax for its support, they have a right to demand that it be expended to some purpose. Be it understood that we do not charge fraud on any person, but say that a thorough and searching reform is needed in the administration of our county affairs; and we presume the people care more for light taxes and security for life and property than they do for the success of political wire-pullers.
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, May 23, 1868, page 2


NOTES OF A TRIP TO OREGON.
(FROM THE TRAVELING CORRESPONDENT OF THE ALTA.)
From Cottonwood to Jacksonville--Character of the Road--Towns on the Route--Kanakas--Their Marriages with Indian Women--Ashland--Fine Horses--Jacksonville--Drew's Quartz Mill.
----
Cottonwood.

    On my travels north after leaving Yreka, the next and last place of note before crossing the line into Oregon is the little mining town of Cottonwood, situated twenty-two miles from Yreka, and six miles north of the foot of the Siskiyou Mountains, on a creek of that name, and near where it empties into the Klamath River. Nearly all the miners here have families, cottages, and small tracts of land, on which they spend much of their time in gardening.
    The gold in this district is coarse in size and fine in quality. Nowhere in the vicinity can you fail to obtain a good prospect with the pan, though water is scarce the year round. At the time I was there first some miners were prospecting for the blue lead, and had already gone some fifty feet through rock and expected to have to go one hundred feet further before striking it. On my return I was informed that the company were getting well paid for their trouble, they having already struck a prospect of $20 to the pan.
    The bed of the Klamath River yields well, as a company that worked a portion of the river last fall found out, and now several other companies are making the necessary arrangements to go to work this season.
Kanakas.
    Curious to say, there are few Chinamen here, but a number of Kansas, who, like the Chinamen, having bought claims which were supposed to have been worked out, are doing well. They are favorites with the whites and are quite intelligent. They would make good citizens if it were not for their liquor-loving propensities. When drunk they are entirely within the power of the whites, and if a person wishes to make any trade with them all he has to do is to obtain a bottle of whiskey and they will sign anything. While I was near their camp, a white man by this policy purchased for $50 a claim in which a pan had yielded $12. Some of them have married Indian women according to the forms of law, and the couples thus united live very happily together. One intelligent fellow, calling himself Daniel Mason, claims to be a correspondent of the Honolulu paper, and produced copies of that sheet, showing me his name attached to communications. He talks good English, and had recently attached himself to an Indian woman in marriage by the regular church ceremonies, and was serenaded in accordance with the American style.
    The town supports one hotel, two saloons, two stores and a good thriving school. Mr. Donaghy is doing the principal business in merchandising.
Cole's Ranch.
    The road from Yreka to Cole's, at the foot of the Siskiyou Mountain, six miles from Cottonwood, runs over an undulating and gravelly country, and in sight of Mount Shasta most of the way.
    We left Cole's ranch after an early breakfast, and proceeded on our way across the Siskiyou Mountain. Much snow having collected, we found our progress impeded, but after repeated stops to let the horse rest we succeeded in reaching the summit. Far below, as we descended the north side of the Siskiyou Mountain, we saw, pleasantly located, farms of the Rogue River Valley. The grass was green and beautiful, forming a striking contrast with the snowy mountain district I was then passing over, for as yet Oregon had escaped the snows, while Yreka, so near by, had already had large quantities of it.
Ashland.
    Ashland, eight miles from the foot of the mountain and sixteen miles south of Jacksonville, is a thriving town, with splendid water privileges, a flouring mill, planing mill, saw mill and an unfinished woolen mill. This last mill is owned by a joint stock company, with a capital of $30,000 in 300 shares. The building is four stories high, and will be in running order next fall. It will be run by one of Leffel's American double-turbine water wheels, and will consume about 60,000 pounds of wool per year. Since the commencement of this mill the sheep raising has increased in this (Jackson County) 50 percent. Ashland also contains a marble yard, two stores, butcher shop and a good hotel.
    I remained here a few days, and, in the meanwhile visited several of the principal farmers in the vicinity, among whom were Mr. W. C. Myer, the celebrated Oregon horse-raiser. He is the owner of the trotting horse "Capt. Sligart," which he imported into Oregon some two years ago to cross with his Coburg stock, which is reputed to be the finest in Oregon.
Jacksonville.
    Jacksonville may be called about the third town in the state, and might properly be called the capital of Southern Oregon. It is situated in Rogue River Valley, Jackson County, 120 miles from Crescent City, from which seaport it obtains its supplies. It is in the center of a wealthy farming and mining district. Most of the mines at present are in the hands of Chinamen, who run many good claims, and never give one up so long as they can get a yield of one dollar per day. The former white owners not unfrequently regret that they sold out under some gold excitement. They found none but Chinamen as purchasers, and now they cannot get the claims back or get unemployment, since the Chinamen hire none but their own kind.
    Jackson Creek, where the principal mining is, runs through the town. About three miles up the north fork is the Occidental quartz mill, the main dependence of this mining district at present. This mill was built about three years ago, at an expense of $15,000, yet by some mismanagement the original company failed, and it has recently fallen into the hands of Capt. L. L. Drew [sic], one of the former stockholders, who was then engaged in making some considerable improvements at an additional expense of about $2,000 more, with the intention of testing the new quartz ledges that have recently been discovered here, there being some seven or eight ledges that are quite extensive. The mill has since been put in good running order, and the ledges have turned out to be profitable. The mill has ten 600-lb. stamps, with Rutger's English Concentrating Boxes--the only mill, I believe, that has adopted them excepting the Eureka Mills, at Grass Valley--also, Hungerford's Patent Concentrating and Amalgamating Tubs, on the principle of those used in Washoe.
    The town is very pleasantly situated, many of the buildings being new, and of a pleasing style of architecture. The town is on the improve, and some nine new brick buildings will be erected this summer. It has about five hundred inhabitants. Among the principal merchants are Sachs Brothers, who were the first to get their spring goods from below, they having them packed on mules from Red Bluff at double the usual expense.
E.S.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, June 18, 1868, page 1


EDITORIAL CORRESPONDENCE.
JACKSONVILLE, Aug. 4th, 1868.
SOME PROSY REFLECTIONS.
    They who go as pioneers into a new country and labor patiently for its improvement and development--who, though beset with difficulties, never lose faith in the future, and who, while working for the present, feels that in founding a community and establishing it in prosperity and correct principles, they are also working for all time to come--such men are our truest heroes. To act this part well requires large faith, broad aims, a catholicity of sentiments and principles, and a patience satisfied to look at the aggregate results of the efforts of twenty years, rather than a disposition to form a hasty judgment of success or failure, based on the limited observations and experiences of a day or a year. To plant the seeds of a community and wait for them to grow and bear fruit calls for the exercise of all the faith and philosophy there is in man. The highest exercise of this faith was manifested in the settlement of this western continent by our ancestors, two and a half centuries ago; and ever since, as rapidly as attempts have been made to establish new communities in the march across the continent, the same qualities have been called more or less into play.
    There are said to be evidences that the American continent was first  peopled by a general movement from north to south. This earliest American migration seems to have been impelled by a fixed law which in the early ages controlled the movements and guided the destiny of the race. The same phenomenon was witnessed in the great migration from the east of Asia to the western shores of Europe, fifteen hundred years ago. Movements like these belong to a certain stage or period in the progress of mankind. But the last "American migration" is something totally different. The great movement for the settlement and subjection of the American continent, which has been making for the last two hundred years, is directed by ideas. It does not spring from obedience to a blind instinct, but is an effort of modern civilization.
    The men who laid the foundations of a community in Oregon, who have labored to give it stability and character, who conceived and have been identified with all the progress the state has made both in material prosperity and moral ideas, have possessed in large degree this modern spirit, and have signalized it by patient working. The disadvantages they have been compelled to meet have been many, but the most considerable of them have been overcome. As a community we have now reached a point whence we must go forward with greatly accelerated speed. Let no casual observer assert that our people are indolent and indisposed to exert themselves to build up the general prosperity. They have done what they could. Let the circumstances be considered, the sparseness of our population and the extent of country over which it is spread, our remoteness of situation, the difficulty of communicating with the world at large as well as with each other, the cost in time and money of getting here, and the fact that other portions of the country, as Kansas, Iowa and Minnesota, lying within comparatively easy reach of the increasing population of the East, have absorbed most of the emigration towards the West--let all these things be considered, and it must be admitted that the advancement which Oregon has made has been, under the circumstances, quite surprising.
    The conviction is growing that better things are immediately before us. The Pacific Coast is quickening with new energy, and Oregon feels the impulse. The Pacific railroad will soon begin to pour a population across the continent, and Oregon shall be ready to meet and receive the incoming tide. Naturally, the people of the southern part of the state want a chance with the rest. The scheme in which they take a most lively interest is the proposition for

A BRANCH RAILROAD
forming a junction with the Central Pacific, crossing the Cascade Mountains in the vicinity of the California line, traversing Rogue River and Umpqua valleys, and forming a connection with the Willamette. This is the proposition submitted in Mallory's bill asking for a subsidy, now before Congress, and recent information from Washington, received in this quarter, inspires a hope here of its passage at an early period of the next session. It is claimed that the Cascade Mountains may be crossed by this route as easily, if not more easily, than by the middle fork of the Willamette; and certainly if the thing is practicable the connection should be made by a route which will accommodate Southern Oregon. A surveying party is now out in the Cascade Mountains east of this place with a design of making more [of] the rough observations of their nature than were ever made before. It is proposed to demonstrate the fact this summer that the mountains in this quarter are actually pervious to a railroad. Another great problem to be demonstrated is the existence of an easier route than has yet been surveyed through the hills and mountains between the Umpqua and Rogue River valleys. It is confidently believed that a better route can be found than that traced in the United States Railroad Surveys.
MATTERS ABOUT JACKSONVILLE.
    This place seems to be steadily flourishing and present an appearance of freshness and thrift not equalled by many of our Oregon towns. Stocks of merchandise here are certainly larger and better than any to be found south of Salem. Imported goods of every description, including agricultural and mining implements, are hauled from Crescent City (Cal.), a distance of one hundred and twenty miles. The road is a mountainous one, and every pound of freight hauled over it to Jacksonville costs three and a half cents. This is the price at present, though it is sometimes higher. From San Francisco to Crescent City freight costs ten dollars per ton, so that by the time goods reach here they have paid a tariff of eighty dollars on the ton. A people who have to struggle with such [a] disadvantage must have many circumstances in their favor to counterbalance them. These the people of Jackson County seem to possess, for it is certain that no portion of the state shows better evidences of prosperity.
THE GOLD PRODUCT.
    The southern part of the state still derives great advantage from its mines and gold. These extend over a large section, and though few rich and extensive strikes are made, the aggregate amount of gold produced each year is very considerable. This keeps the "circulating medium" in this quarter of the state comparatively abundant. Of course many mines are entirely worked out, and in many other places work is suspended on account of scarcity of water, but when water can be obtained the miners are still delving away. Chinese are working over many old diggings, and along the bars of Rogue River these people may be seen in numerous places employing their patient industry in washing out the gold which white labor has neglected as too small pay. In some places they have large wheels constructed, driven by the current, for raising water for their sluices. It will be many years before the placer mines of Southern Oregon are exhausted, and after a while many localities will be worked with profit which will not now afford sufficient pay. It is expected also that the quartz interests of the southern counties will eventually have great importance.
FARM PRODUCTS.
    For the products of agriculture there is a fair market in Jackson County--quite as good in fact as in any part of the state. The supply required by the mines is a considerable item. For some time past the government demand for flour and grain at Fort Klamath has called for no small portion of the products of this valley. Flour is also sent from here into Northern California. Some of the best-improved farms in Oregon lie in Jackson County, and their owners are doing fully as well as any farmers in Vermont.
    The harvest is about ended here, and the yield is large. On the whole, this is probably the most productive season Oregon has ever known.
HOT WEATHER.
    The way the temperature rises here in an August afternoon is decidedly uncomfortable to contemplate, yet it is not so hot how by several degrees as it was some days ago. It is not an unusual thing for the mercury to rise about 100 deg., and last Sunday it was 110 in the shade in this town. In the coolest place that could be found the thermometer indicated 102 deg. Yet it is observable that the heat seems less oppressive in these parts than in many others where the thermometer indicates a temperature lower by ten or fifteen degrees. The air is less sultry, and seems less close and stagnant. Its elasticity is such that the hottest days do not produce the feebleness and languor which are experienced in many localities.
A THRIVING VILLAGE
is Ashland, sixteen miles from Jacksonville, on the stage road. Quite a number of buildings are going up at that place this summer, and the woolen mill, which is expected to be an interest of great value to this part of the state, will, ere long, be in operation. A portion of the machinery has already arrived, and the rest will come without delay. The building is now ready for the machinery. The manufacture in Southern Oregon of a large and important class of goods which have heretofore been imported at high prices will be a great point gained.
POLITICS.
    The disgust which prevails among the "Democracy" on account of the action of the New York Convention is painful to see. Of course all, or nearly all, of them "can eat crow" and vote for Seymour and Blair, and nine-tenths of these would as soon be one as the other. Every Republican who meets a Democrat is loud in his praises of Seymour's gold-paying policy and Frank Blair's war record. Blair is especially commended for his prompt action in clearing Missouri of "Democrats," for firing upon a promiscuous crowd in St. Louis in 1861, for offering a resolution in Congress to expel Clark, a Democratic member from Missouri, for the conflagrations of rebel property which he caused when "marching through Georgia," etc., etc. All these things are wormwood to the "unterrified," and many are the deep-drawn d--ns which escape the barrier of their teeth. But the dilatability of the Democratic esophagus is wonderful, and before the close of the campaign most of them will be seen devouring "crow" with astonishing voracity. But there are some who cannot do it, and the Republicans of this county have assurances that quite a number who voted "Democratic" in June will vote for Grant and Colfax.
Oregonian, Portland, August 8, 1868, page 2


EDITORIAL CORRESPONDENCE.
OAKLAND, Aug. 7, 1868.
THE DAILY STAGE LINE.
    The facilities for travel afforded by the daily stage line from Portland to Sacramento are a vast improvement upon the old times, when we had to go pounding along trails on cayuses, fortunate if we could make forty miles a day. The Oregon traveler is forever done with the jerky gait of the cayuse, and may now pass over the principal thoroughfare of the state, from the northern to the southern boundary in sixty hours, hardly feeling the tedium of the trip. The stage line is admirably organized and efficiently managed; the roads are as good as they can be, and the company put the mails, express and travelers through in just about the shortest time and best style in which that thing can be done. The state, throughout its whole length, derives very great advantages from this line. It is about the only means by which anything like a general circulation is kept up among the people of Western Oregon.
THE UMPQUA VALLEY.
    Undoubtedly the time will come when this part of the state will have advantages equal to those possessed by any other; for nature here has done her share, and is only waiting for the industry of man to do the rest. Though this valley may appear to be somewhat remotely situated, its isolation is no more complete than portions of Willamette. A fair degree of activity is observable in several parts of Douglas County. This town (Oakland) is really a thriving place. Great improvements have been made here during the past year, and all the people of the town seem to have something to do, and to be doing it. Roseburg also wears a healthy look. These places are about equal in size, and there is a contest between them for metropolitan honors. This rivalry is further stimulated by a proposition which is on foot to divide Douglas County. Oakland is in favor of division, and Roseburg opposes. The former wants to be the county seat of the new county, while the latter fears that in case the division is made, leaving Roseburg near the edge of the county, the seat of government will be transferred to Myrtle Creek or some other place more centrally located than Roseburg. The proposition seems to be to divide the county by the north branch of the Umpqua River to its intersection with the south branch, and from this point follow a line due west to the ocean. The question will be brought before the Legislature at the coming session. It is evident that the county is inconveniently large and that much interest is taken in the matter of dividing it. The friends of division hope to get an act through the Legislature submitting the question to the people to be voted upon.
    As there is no great profit in grain growing in Umpqua, the people have of late years devoted their attention pretty largely to the rearing of stock. Cattle, however, are not now numerous; the failure of grazing accounting for the disappearance of the large herds which were once seen here. But there are large numbers of sheep in the valley, and no part of Oregon seems better adapted to rearing them. Experience in this quarter has shown that there is a good profit in sheep husbandry. There are more good horses in this part of the state than formerly--though the rearing of good horses has never yet received sufficient attention in any part of Oregon. Properly managed, it would be very profitable.
    The production of grapes might be successfully carried on in Southern Oregon. In Rogue River Valley they are said to ripen well, and they may also be grown in Umpqua. In Willamette it is known that they do not always ripen. But experiments have shown that in the southern part of the state they may be counted on as a sure crop. When industry shall search out all the avenues of employment which may be found in Oregon, it is safe to predict that grape-growing in this part of the state will not be neglected.
GOLD EXCITEMENT.
    Much interest is manifested here in the Bohemia mines. There are numbers who think they certainly have "struck it,'' and there is considerable running to and fro in consequence. There are said to be one hundred men in the mines, and many others are alternately between their homes and the new district. Everybody has "specimens," and there is the usual talk about "feet," "strike," "dip," "wall-rock," etc., etc, with an abundance of scientific disquisitions on the nature, origin, extent and richness of the new quartz field. The assays do certainly show very promising results.
Oregonian, Portland, August 10, 1868, page 2


EDITORIAL CORRESPONDENCE.
SCOTTSBURG, Aug. 10, 1868.
    From Oakland to Scottsburg by mail. Started at an early hour; driving out "under the opening eyelids of the morn"; tasting what the poets call the fresh, dewy breath of the rising day. Beholding the sun, which a few hours since sank to its bed in ocean, now "repair its drooping head, trick its beams, and flame with new-spangled ore in the forehead of the morning sky." Taking large draughts of an atmosphere whose elastic, vitalizing energy gives new life and causes the blood to
forget its sluggishness and to leap and flow with renewed activity and vigor. Over hills gilded by the beams of the rising sun; across valleys whitened by the hand of Ceres; winding through columnar forests; passing brooks and streamlets which wander under pendant shades with mazy error; coursing along the precipitous banks of a river which tears impatiently through mountain gorges; now slackening the pace so as to linger where the great trees throw their shadows far away upon the road, and now rising upon the crest of a high-climbing hill where the heat of the sun is tempered by breezes from ocean--such was my employment during a day in the forepart of the present month of 1868.
    But it may be as well to quit this attempt at sentiment right here--for unlike the wit of the person in the old play, it is not at all nimble, and does amble well. Mr. Gradgrind's philosophy about facts, however sordid it may be, affords safer grounds to tread on. Let us therefore look about us for something which the world regards as a little more substantial than sentiment about sunshine and breezes and warbling brooks. In short, let us see what we find at Scottsburg. 
    I have before me the first ten numbers of the Umpqua Weekly Gazette, a paper which made its first appearance at Scottsburg, on the 28th of April, 1854. Its publisher was Wm. J. Beggs; its editor, D. J. Lyons. Mr. Beggs, after having been variously employed upon the Oregon press for a number of years, went to California about 1860, where he has since been connected with sundry newspaper enterprises. Mr. Lyons is still a resident of Scottsburg. The Gazette was the first paper published in Oregon south of the Calapooia Mountains. The introductory number contains an appeal to the citizens of Scottsburg to come forward with liberal subscriptions to build a wagon road from their town to Winchester, as this was deemed the measure upon which the prosperity of both places depended. The wagon road was built, but neither town has fulfilled its early promise. Of Winchester, the site only is known; the town, with the exception of the residence of the proprietor, is no more. Scottsburg is a little more fortunate. The town at this time contains about half a dozen families, with one store and one receiving and forwarding warehouse. The great flood of 1860 carried away about thirty buildings on the lower street, the most considerable portion of the town. In the last number of the Overland Monthly we have an account of Klamath City, a town that was and is not. Scottsburg is hardly to be reckoned in the same category, for the place still exists, and as a shipping point has considerable business; but it is not the place which it promised to be in the heyday of its youth fifteen years ago.
    Succeeding numbers of the Umpqua Gazette inform us that the Umpqua River is a very favorable place for the entrance of shipping; that the bar is short and easily passed; that there is a good depth of water in the river and that "although we do not claim the depth of water on the bar which the Columbia has yet we should be unwilling to exchange, and take its twenty-odd miles of dangerous navigation between the outer bar and a harbor for the extra two fathoms." Also, that the "Umpqua should not be placed by the side of the picture" of stranded vessels; "for it is quite exempt from those causes whence result such serious losses of human life." But the Umpqua, though a tolerably safe entrance, did not succeed in establishing its claims as a rival of the Columbia. Yet it was once supposed that there was serious rivalry between the two rivers, and Scottsburg actually contended with Portland for the trade of Oregon. Indeed the Umpqua Gazette did not hesitate to prophesy "that in a few years the T-rail will cover the wagon road, and heavy trains, laden with produce and provisions, will be running from Scottsburg to Portland." It is amusing now to revive these incidents in our history; yet fifteen years hence many of the expectations and enterprises of this time will seem as strange and extravagant as do the pretension which were set up by Scottsburg in 1853-4.
    It ought to be added here that the Umpqua Gazette, which professed such brilliant things for this town, expired after a brief existence of less than one year. The material of the office was taken to Jacksonville, and used to commence the publication of the Sentinel.
    The decline of Scottsburg was owing to the failure of the mines in the Southern part of the then territory, which were supplied through this place, and to the completion of the road from Crescent City to Jacksonville, thus cutting off the remainder of the trade in that quarter. Yreka, Cottonwood, Sailor Diggings and all the mines of that region at one day got their supplies here. Citizens of this place relate that they have known times when pack trains numbering in the aggregate more than one thousand animals have been waiting here for vessels to arrive to give them loads for the interior.
    Yet this place is still a shipping point of considerable importance. All the goods consumed in the valley of the Umpqua are supplied through Scottsburg. Oakland, Roseburg and Canyonville receive their goods by wagon from here, and at this time this forwarding business is going on with considerable activity. A steamer from San Francisco enters the river once a month, bringing merchandise for this trade, and carrying away the products of Umpqua Valley. Wheat, flour, bacon and wool are shipped from this place in considerable quantities; and from Gardiner, a point on the river some miles below, a large amount of lumber, sawn at that place, is sent away. The manufacture of lumber at Gardiner last year amounted to three million feet. Timber in great quantities grows upon the Umpqua River and the tide sloughs about its mouth, and lumbering will long continue to be an important interest here. The valley of this river for a distance of sixty miles from the ocean is in all places quite narrow, never exceeding a couple of miles in width. Bound by difficult mountains which seem in most places quite impervious, and destined for ages to come to defy the efforts of the hand of man to subdue their native wildness, there is little chance here for a community, based on agriculture, to grow and expand. But there may easily be great improvement, and in a few years there doubtless will be. In the valley, within fifteen or twenty miles of this place, are many thousands of acres of land equal to the very best in the state; and though all of it is claimed, a very small part only is cultivated. If flour can be made at Canyonville, ninety miles distant, and hauled here for shipment to California, it could surely be made with profit in the valley a few miles above this place. There is yet no mill in operation this side of Oakland; but this want will soon be supplied by the completion of one new building six miles distant from here. Twenty dollars a ton is now paid for hauling each way between Scottsburg and Oakland, and a little more between Scottsburg and Roseburg. The completion of a railroad from Portland through the upper valley of the Umpqua would cut off the trade in general merchandise through the mouth of this river; yet the lumber and agricultural interests of this quarter will always be considerable enough to keep communication with San Francisco open. Freight is taken from here to San Francisco by steamer for eight dollars per ton. The last steamer took out forty tons of wool and a large lot of bacon--products of the upper valley. Probably a third part of the wool of Umpqua goes to the mills of Willamette; the remainder finds an outlet by this way to San Francisco.

Morning Oregonian, Portland, August 17, 1868, page 2


(Communicated.)
The Lake Country--The Branch Railroad.
    As many inquiries have been made in regard to the southeastern part of our state in order to determine its fitness for settlement, or the practicability of building a railroad through it, [it] may not be inadmissible for me to give my views on the subject, as I have some experience in that region. In summer I have roamed its broad grassy plains in search of the fleet-footed antelope, hunted the antlered buck in its beautifully timbered hills, or have angled for the golden trout in its pellucid waters. Roaming these lovely plains, with a verdant carpet beneath, evergreen trees around, clear streams flowing in silent majesty, wild fruits in "luscious glory pendant," and a bright blue sky above, one's ideas of the romantic and beautiful are made bright and vivid. But this summer experience is not all. In winter I have looked for months on fields of ice and snow, in the colder parts of that region.
    The discussion of the Humboldt railroad idea has brought forth some curious representations, some of them apparently not well consisting with each other, and of course calculated to produce sorry impressions. Some would convey the idea that the Lake country is a paradise, and other extremists would represent that it is a vast sage plain, almost entirely destitute of water and timber, and hence that hundreds of miles of the railroad route would lie through a region approximating in features and condition to the desert of Sahara, even having nomadic Snakes drifting around amid the sands, like wandering Arabs. There is a very natural disposition to enlarge upon the truth, and from this comes that flying into extremes of which so many are guilty; and in this way the imagination may be so distorted as to make a sage plain appear to spread out and envelop many a beautiful valley, or a little valley to become immense by gobbling up some huge sage plain. Now, fellow citizens, if the pen's point has driven these false impressions into your minds, allow me to make an humble effort to disabuse them from some of these hallucinations. Being ourself of a romantic, fierce and fiery nature, we may allow our imagination to soar a little before we bring our pen to the last period, but we will try to keep the wanderings within the bounds of truth and reason.
    Opposite the southern part of Rogue River Valley, the Cascade chain is broken down to a broad summit plateau, not of great altitude, with gradual descent on either side. This bench is called the Dead Indian Country. South of this the country is rougher but not usually as high, admitting of a route across the mountains to a fine pastoral and agricultural region, lying on lower Klamath, Rhett and Wright lakes, and stretching off to the southern extremity of Goose Lake, and beyond. This is the route of the old emigrant road, established in 1846 by fifteen pioneers then living in the Willamette Valley. The Dead Indian plateau admits of a splendid route from Ashland, via Grubbonia in Dead Indian, Lake of the Woods, norther extremity of Middle Klamath Lake, Fort Klamath, Klamath Indian Agency, Williamson River, to Sprague River Valley, thence intersecting the Central Military Road from Eugene City. Then passing the central road in almost a direct line from Ashland, to Goose Lake Valley. We will make it our peculiar province to describe this route, as by this we may illustrate, as we proceed, the characteristics of a country almost every foot of which we are familiar with.
    Leaving Ashland we ascend the eastern rim of the basin in which Rogue River Valley is contained, by a good wagon road, and at the end of about sixteen miles find ourselves at Grubbonia in Dead Indian. Around us for miles is a splendid pastoral region, now extensively used for grazing purposes every summer. This plateau is here near twenty miles wide, is well watered and magnificently timbered, and has many beautiful prairies. Although on the summit of the Cascade Mountains, the latitude of this region is not so great, but that in case a construction of a railroad through it, it would be extensively settled, in fact we think this will occur at no distant day even if the railroad should pass some other way. Leaving Grubbonia we pass on through noble forests of pine, cedar, fir and yew, the tall sugar pine standing among them like a monarch, until after having crossed the plateau we find ourselves ready to descend the eastern side of the mountains. This we find an easy task. About a mile and a half down a gradual descent, we find ourselves on the first bench of the Cascades. Here surrounded by evergreen forests, coming down at many places to the water's edge, reclines placidly the clear beautiful Lake of the Woods, which is near three miles long. North and east is a beautiful prairie about half a mile wide, and covered with fine meadow grass. Passing along on the southern border of the lake, if the day should be clear, we can see far below us in the clear water a long extent of the Cascade chain, reflected from the smooth surface. Among the lesser summits and pinnacles we can see Mt. Pitt's basaltic spire piercing the clouds, and clad in garments of everlasting white.
(TO BE CONTINUED.)
PILOT ROCK.  [Attributed to Isaac Cox]
Ashland, Sept. 2nd, 1868.
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, September 19, 1868, page 1


(Communicated.)
The Lake Country--The Branch Railroad.
CONCLUDED.
    Reaching the eastern rim of the summit plateau, we descend gradually about three miles to a prairie, and two miles further brings us to the Pelican Bay on Klamath Lake, scarcely forty miles from Ashland. Here we intersect the old Ft. Klamath road which crosses the mountains further north, and at a greater altitude.
    In order to avoid the marsh land lying near the lake, we change our course more to the north, and following the mountain's foot some miles we take our direct course again, and commence crossing the upper Klamath Valley. This valley is about fifteen miles long, and from eight to fifteen wide, lying at the northern extremity of the principal Klamath Lake, and eight miles below the Klamath Agency, at the head of navigation on the Lake.
    This valley, although in some parts containing pumice stone, is generally covered with a luxuriant carpet of grass, abounds in fertile soil, and is beautifully timbered, the prevailing variety tamarack being dispersed in groves all over its level surface.
    The Cascades "swing around the circle" on the west and north, shooting aloft their extinct volcanic peaks, and sending down a long tapering ridge on the east to separate this valley from that of the Klamath Marsh.
    Beautiful clear streams run their unchangeable floods across this splendid valley.
    On by Ft. Klamath we pursue our way, and about 40 miles from where we first saw the lake we reach the Klamath Agency.
    The climate of this valley is tolerably severe--local causes of course, such as proximity to the mountain chains, effect changes of climate, and hence this valley will be found colder than the valleys further east, through which the railroad would pass. But notwithstanding this fact, a great variety of garden vegetables and cereals can be produced, and at Link River, thirty miles south, cucumbers and like tender plants flourish and mature.
    Pursuing a course nearly due east from the agency, in three miles we strike Williamson River at the junction of Sprague River with that stream, and pursuing our course a few miles further, alternately through forest and meadow, we find ourselves in Sprague River Valley 50 miles in extent. Since coming into the Klamath Basin we have been traveling through a country comparatively level, passing great streams of water bursting from the earth and suddenly becoming rivers by uniting with other great springs, and then running slowly across the prairies to mingle with the lake waters, or some of its large tributaries.
    Making our way up Sprague River Valley towards the source of its beautiful stream, we see antelope scampering across the broad meadows, and eventually diving out of sight in grand old forests. Golden trout are dancing in the clear streams, their scales shining like burnished gold in the transparent waters; and prairie chickens, rising near us, sound an alarm and diving a little way through the air disappear in the tall rye grass.
    The soil of this valley is generally very fertile, its climate is comparatively mild and will someday teem with a healthy population--most of it now on the Reservation.
    Again pursuing our direct course beyond this valley, we cross several low divides, usually timbered, and between them, rich valleys, and having climates comparatively mild, as we are now getting far way from the fields of snow. We pass near the valleys of Chewaucan, Lake Albert, Summer Lake, Christmas Lake and others--all well timbered, well watered and fertile.
    Some ninety miles from Ft. Klamath we reach Goose Lake Valley, than which none of the others are near so extensive; yet it possesses the usual characteristics of those we have described, and is capable of supporting a very large population.
    I believe it has been decided by the prospectors of the railroad to Humboldt to leave the matter as to where the road shall cross the Cascades to the decision of the directors or stockholders of the company. This idea is a sensible one--many who otherwise would have opposed it now support it. The whole of Oregon will now lend it their aid, and the bill before Congress to extend government aid to the enterprise will certainly become a law.
    We of this section, in case the enterprise goes on as it is now shaped, apprehend no danger of its crossing the Cascade wall at any other place than through our gate. Instead of turning off at Sprague River Valley from its direct course towards Rogue River Valley, and bearing off, nearly at a right angle through one hundred miles or more of country almost entirely unfit for settlement, to cross the mountains at a greater altitude, the road will certainly be constructed from Sprague River Valley on through a country presenting no considerable obstacles, the most of which will admit of settlement either by way of Ft. Klamath or Link River into Rogue River Valley, and thence through Southern and Middle Oregon.
    If the different railroad interests could be united on this route, in a few short years the iron steed, fresh from the sterile plains of Humboldt, will rush with all the fierceness of his fiery nature along the graded sides of the Umpqua Canyon.
    We may regard it as a significant fact when the iron band shall be drawn from the Central Pacific to the heart of our state, that it shall come so near following the footsteps of the fifteen pioneers who first marked a way for civilized people across the then wild land.
    I opine that in a few years more Southeastern Oregon will teem with an energetic population. Flocks will graze on a thousand hills--the hunter will chase the antelope across the grassy plains--will dive into secluded forests after the nimble stag, or climb after the retreating big horn on lofty crags, like Victor Emmanuel scaling some Alpine height after the fleeting chamois; and the fisherman, seated like some "sedentary frog" on an "ancient log" spanning some crystal river, will behold in the glassy water the splendid trout swallowing his hook and know "just when to haul."
    You and I may stand on some rocky spire and from our pinnacle behold the iron horse tearing down the side of the Cascade wall, his nostrils wide dilated and clouds of smoke arising--and then we may see him flying like the wind across the plains, pausing at some prairie town to increase or decrease his burden, and again speed onward--onward towards the rising sun.
PILOT ROCK.
Ashland, Sept. 22nd, 1868.
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, October 3, 1868, page 2


A TRIP TO OREGON.
Roseburg, Douglas Co., Oregon.
    DEAR PARENTS--I avail myself of the present opportunity to give you the particulars of our journey, as I took it down daily:--April 30th: We left Wakarusa Creek, Kansas, our spirits light and our hearts were gay. We had one mule and three ponies, and one wagon; our team were fat. We went through Topeka, done a little trading, then crossed the Kaw (or Kansas) River, traveled up on the north side and camped for the night in the timber. No grass for our animals; had to buy hay. Fine day. Made 16 miles.--May 1st: Traveled up along the Southern P.R.R. all day. Crossed Cross Creek and camped five miles above it. 20 miles.--2nd: A beautiful morning. Passed St. Mary's Mission, Agency for the Pottawatomie Indian Reservation, crossed Phelps, Lone, Red Vermilion, Rock, and Brush creeks, and camped. Made 22 miles. Very fine weather.--3rd: Crossed West Rock Creek and 16 miles of prairie. No water. Camped on the Black Vermilion. Made 26 miles. No settlements along here; a house every five or ten miles, and these along the creeks.--4th: Crossed the Black Vermilion and 16 miles of prairie, and reach Marysville on the Big Blue. The settlers here are all afraid of Indians, and grasshoppers are threatening to destroy their crops. 16 miles.--5th: Cross the Big Blue.--6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th: Still at Marysville. We got the company of seven more wagons for California.--10th: We left Marysville for Big Sandy. It was Sunday. It blew a hurricane at noon. We camped at Cottonwood. Rained all night. Made 12 miles.--11th. Had to lay over; too wet and muddy. We kept guards on.--12th: Fine day. Rolled out. Saw two antelopes. Camped on Rock Creek. 20 miles. Reports worse regarding Indians.--13th: Crossed the Nebraska line and Little Sandy Creek and camped on Big Sandy. 20 miles. Awful reports of Indians run all the settlers off Little Blue. The roads deserted, we held council about it. Turn back and go more north. Went around 50 miles.--14th: Camped on Swan Creek. Made 20 miles.--15th: Down Swan Creek to Turkey Creek, then up Turkey. They have the herd law in Nebraska. 50 to 100 acres of fine-looking wheat and no fences. They herd their cattle, &c. Fine-looking country. Lots of game; settled some along the creeks and bottomlands, and camped on Turkey. 17 miles.--16th: Up Turkey a few miles and crossed, then struck the Ridge Road. Saw more antelopes. Crossed the west fork of Big Blue, and camped. Made 15 miles. Large prairies. Lots of antelopes.--17th: Struck the Nebraska City and Fort Kearny freight road.--18th: Fell in with eight wagons from Nebraska City for Oregon. Camped on Beaver Creek. 20 miles. No wood; use buffalo chips.--19th: Put out lively all day up Beaver. 28 miles. Camped.--20th: Made the Platte or Nebraska River at noon, and 10 miles up Platte. 30 miles.--21st: Made Fort Kearny and camped two miles above the Fort. 30 miles. At night we sat round the camp fire in safety. The girls called on me to sing, and I give them "Limerick Races" and "Old Cabin Home." Others sang. We had lots of fun. We had our pickets out.--22nd to 30th: At Kearny still. On Sunday, the 26th, four of the best horses in the train stampeded and run downstream. They all belonged to one old man from Iowa. He and another man put out a-horseback after them, but could not keep up nor in sight. He came back without them, crying. We took pity on him and swore we would find them or die. We found out they had been caught by a horse thief and picketed out in the bluffs. We found the thief, drew our six-shooters on him, and told him to find the horses or he'd go under right there. He said he would find them if we would promise him we would not hurt him, so we promised, to get the old man his horses, otherwise we would have shot him. I, the old man, and two more of the boys took him out there and got the horses, and let him go. The old man was so pleased he did not know what to do, so he treated all round. On the night of the 28th we had one of the heaviest storms I ever saw. We had to lash our wagons down to the ground to hold them; the tents were all torn up, and some of the wagons were lifted off the ground; the women were shrieking, the men yelling, some laughing, but it was an awful night; we stayed up to watch the horses; we could only see them by the flashes of lightning.--May 31st: Left Fort Kearny at noon.--June 1st to 3rd: We made Fort McPherson, 95 miles from Kearny, on Cottonwood, where so much devilment has been done by the Indians, but we saw none, though we looked keenly for them. I took great pleasure in scouting--did not care whether I was killed or not. I was bound to do all I could for the welfare of the emigrants. Fort McPherson is one of the nicest and cleanest-looking military posts I ever saw. It is built on the open plains with a good view of the surrounding country. We had some 40 wagons. We had an attempt made to stampede our horses by a white man. He drove five or six head of horses through our camp and scared our horses. Some run off a little and come back. I only wished I had been on guard that night--if I had not shot him--why it's all right, he came pretty near it anyhow.--4th: Made 12 miles by noon and camped near the forks of the Platte at Platte City, in sight at an Indian village. Sioux warriors making treaty with government. We have a well-armed force now, and keep keen-eyed sentinels on all the time looking out for reds and moccasins.--5th: Our train split in two. Couldn't agree, so half the train left us, and we followed behind, and we passed the Indian village. They looked fierce as catamounts. I rode up ahead of the train into the village, and stayed there talking with the Indians till the train passed, and then I left. They looked keenly at my revolver. We passed with safety. They tried to trade for arms and ammunition, but we needed all we had. We encamped on Fremont's stream. There is no wood along here. Had to burn old wagons, buffalo chips, &c. We had bad alkali water to drink and could get no other; made some of the boys sick.--6th: One of the boys shot an antelope, so we had fresh meat. No Indians seen. Made over 30 miles. Camped near Old Platte. I was on guard, and could see the cars on the Union Pacific Railroad as they passed up and down on the other side of the river, two or three miles from us. The red lights looked natural, as they used to look at home.--7th: Sunday morning. Very nice for traveling. A good breeze blowing downstream. We have hot days and cold nights and storms every now and then. Old Platte is a noted place for storms. Killed an antelope. Made 30 miles and camped near the old California crossing.--8th: Traveled lively all day. Made 25 miles. Our scouts came in and reported 200 or 300 Indians out in the bluffs, all warriors; it was now dark. The other train was camped about half a mile from us. The women got scared and said they wouldn't stay there that might. All was excitement and confusion. Some of us tried to reason with the others, but no use; they were bound to go, so we all hitched up. There were only five or six men that could be spared from the train, and I was one that had no wagon or family, so I volunteered to go out along the bluffs to see if there was any "Injuns." I dashed off in the dark, revolver in hand, to give the signal if I was taken. I fully expected I should. I thought of my old father and mother as I flew over the ground on that dark night, never expecting to see the morrow's sun, but determined I would do my duty if I died; but we had no difficulty in getting to the other train. We kept a good guard on all night. Before daylight next morning I and another man went out and scouted all through the bluffs, but we could not find an Indian in the country. I believe the scouts got scared and excited, and imagined they had seen Indians. The captain was to blame; he ought not to have allowed the men to move. If there had been Indians they would have got us while we were going to the other train; 100 of them could have cleaned us out while under way, but 500 men couldn't have captured us in corral. It was a great mistake. The captain was a good man and not afraid to fight, but he let them do as they pleased; he tried to please them all but pleased none hardly.--9th: Made Fort Sedgwick in two hours, 110 miles from McPherson. We camped at the old crossing at Julesburg. In the afternoon we commenced crossing old Platte. Oh! what fun we had. Four, six, and eight horses or mules to a wagon; water up to the wagon bed, and in the wagon sometimes; the mules would slip down and go overhead [in over their heads]; we would have to jump out and help them up. Two teams stuck fast, and had to be helped out by other teams. We had lots of fun, you bet. I crossed five or six times, sometimes a-horseback, other times with wagon, two or three to a wagon. We had a little whiskey and lots of fun, the boys yelling and the women shrieking, old men laughing, horses splashing, mules floundering; golly! but you ought to have seen us. At night we had singing and dancing; had a fiddle or two in the train. Night before they were all scared to death nearly. We forgot all about Indians then.-- 10th: We traded a little at Julesburg, and went two miles and camped on Pole Creek, and laid over all day and washed. Fine weather. Camped close to the railroad.--11th: Struck [a] cut up Pole Creek, another train of 30 wagons ahead of us and one behind. We camped and made 30 miles. Lots of game, antelopes.--12th: Passed the military stations of Sidney and Potter on the U.P.R.R. Indians killed a man here a month ago, in sight of the men. 30 miles.--15th: Traveled till two o'clock and camped at Antelope Station. Made 18 miles.--14th: Made Pine Bluffs, in sight of Long's Peak, Rocky Mountains. 25 miles.--15th: Passed a government train; 100 men for escort. Camped on Pole Creek in sight of Longs Peak and the snowy range. Made about 30 miles. Fine. We also passed an emigrant train from California and Oregon.--16th: Got an antelope. Made Cheyenne City by four o'clock and camped three miles west of town. The country here is full of desperadoes, gamblers, horse thieves, &c. It is a very busy little place. Camped on Crow Creek. Made 21 miles. Very fine weather.--17th: Started for the mountains and nooned at the foot of the mountains. In the afternoon we commenced climbing the Black Hills. Of all the rocky scenery I ever saw or heard of, the Black Hills beat all. Rocks of all shapes and sizes. I can't explain it by pen or tongue, suffice it to say that it was wild and romantic scenery. We entered the Cheyenne Pass through the Black Hills. We camped in one of the prettiest places, and I had the honor of choosing the camp ground myself. Plenty of good grass, pinewood and cold mountain water. On the west of us and within 50 yards of our corral was a large rough-looking rock about 50 feet high. I climbed up on the top and scratched my name with my bowie. On south and east were two more larger rocks, and on the north a large range of bluffs covered with rock and pine, the whole completing an area of about three miles. Oh, how beautiful. I only wished that Father, Lol, and John Wade had been there for a minute or so. I could hardly tear myself away from it in the morning. I mounted my pony and sat in the saddle and gazed on the scenery till the train had all strung out and was under way. I put spurs to my horse and rode about a mile and then found myself captured by another scenery. It was like a gentleman's dwelling place in the old country. It was a large square rock about the size of a large hall. On the back and on each side of the rock are smaller rocks, intermingled with pinery, and in the front was an area of two acres of beautiful green grass running along in front of the rock and fenced in with a double row of pine trees. It seemed as if someone had set the tree out. I believe the Black Hills scenery beats the world. If a man don't believe in God he ought to come and see the Black Hills, and if he did not change then, I should say that he ain't got good sense, or none at all. Oh, but it was magnificent, you bet it were. Then crossed the summit and down on the Laramie Plains and camped on Big Laramie River, near Fort Sanders. Made 25 miles a day; before 20 miles. Fort Sanders is 100 miles above Fort Laramie on the same river, and 52 miles west of Cheyenne City on the western slope.--19th: Lay over till three o'clock, and went six miles, and camped without water. Fine weather.--20th: Made Little Laramie River. I cut my name in another rock, and dated it. It was soft rock, and cut deep and plain. I cut like this--Jim Mitchell, 1868, and underneath I cut Lew Derner, 1866 [sic]; and if ever any of the L.R. Boys came out here they will know old Lew has been there. Over 90 miles.--21st, Sunday: Struck out for Fort Halleck. Passed seven miles on the lake. Cooked and camped on Little Wagonhound Cr. Eat some snow.--22nd: Passed Rock or Big Wagonhound, or Medicine Bow, and camped on a nameless creek at the foot of the Elk Horn Mountain; rough and rocky driving.--23rd: Made Fort Halleck. All that remains of it is a log building and a saloon, and a band of 25 or 30 horse thieves live in the mountain; but we were too strong for them. Passed Snake C., and camped on Pass, or with some Mormons who were leaving Brigham Young.--24th: Made 15 miles and camped at North Platte Ferry. 25 miles.--25th, 26th: Too windy to cross. Awful cold; had a little snow. We had to make big fires, and put on our overcoats to keep from freezing. I cut my name in a large rock over 150 feet high, where I had a good view of the country. A few days before old Red Cloud, big chief of the Sioux Indians, had run off about a hundred head of horses belonging to the railroad bands, and they killed one or two men herders.--27th: Wind settled. We crossed the North Platte. There were over 100 wagons there waiting to cross. We camped on the plain near Sage Creek. 20 miles.--28th: We entered Bridger's Pass of the Rocky Mountains. I again cut my name in deep in a soft rock close to the road on the mountainside. Where the road is cut the Muddy Creek flows westward 50 feet below. We camped on the Muddy where the mountains were steep on each side, 25 miles.--29th: Passed Sulfur Springs, Washakie, and Duck Lake. Camped at Barrel Springs. It was late when we got in--dark as the ace of spades. We had to travel there before we could get water, and salt water at that. No grass. Made 34 miles.--30th: Struck out early for grass five or six miles. Refreshed our animals. Then on down Bitter Creek a few miles, and camped at a cold spring. 24 miles.--July 1st, 2nd: Down Bitter Creek, awful bad, salty, and alkali water, and very little grass. We and our animals both suffered more that hundred miles than all the rest of the journey. Some of them got physicked so bad they could not work, men and women both, as well as horses and mules. Made 25 and 30 the first two days.--3rd: Still down Bitter Creek. Our train split again at noon. No danger of Indians here. We camped and made 25 miles.--4th: Made Green River City in the morning. This is the hardest-looking place I ever saw. I saw a man killed the night before. If there ain't a man killed at night, they said, there is no fun. Everybody carries one or two revolvers or bowies. The storekeepers all had them stuck behind the counter ready. There was an old English miner from Cornwall there, drunk, shooting his rifle off in every direction in the air. I asked him where he was from; he said Cornwall. I told him I was an Englishman. He said he did not care for old England anymore. I told him I did. I said, I love her, and always will, and always respect my countrymen; but he did not. We ferried the river and made Black Fork, and ferried and camped. 25 miles.--5th, Sunday: We set off Wagon Tires and made 10 miles. Camped on Smith Fork. Oh, what fun we did have with the mosquitoes. We had to tie blankets on our animals, or they would have stampeded. We had to put on our overcoats and gloves before we could eat our supper. Oh, how the boys damned! The air was thick.--6th: Crossed Smith's Fork, and up Black Fork, and camped on it. More "skeeters." They would light on the "grub" before we could get it to our lips. Our poor animals suffered. No sleep for anybody that night. 32 miles.--7th: Made Fort Bridger--the best-looking fort I ever saw, about a dozen different streams run through the fort. It is principally built of logs. Lots of Indians come in every day, begging, and trading bannocks, &c. 22 miles.--8th: We are now in Utah Territory among the Mormons. We crossed Muddy Creek. There were lots of grasshoppers jumping in frying pans, coffee pots, &c. 22 miles.--9th: Crossed Quaking Ash Ridge and Bear River. Made 20 miles. Rained at night.--10th: Rained all day--slippery and muddy. We lay over and let our animals graze. 11th: Crossed Yellow Creek, and camped in Echo Canyon. The heavens full of grasshoppers.--12th: Down the canyon. Hundreds of Mormons at work on the U.P.R.R. There are a great many Englishmen here. The Mormons have a strange, downcast, vacant, half-starved look about them. They seem as if they couldn't raise their heads up and laugh. They are a miserable-looking race of people. You may go to a farmhouse. There you find two or three outhouses where his lordship has a charming young wife living in each house and room--if it is no better than a stable. But go inside, there you will find a miserable sight. Three or four pale-faced, raggedly dressed children. The same with the women; the way they look at one another is a caution to painters. I was ashamed to find so many countrywomen of mine passing such a miserable existence. I pity the women, particularly the girls. It seems they are compelled to bestow their affections on some old flint-hearted wretch. They will steal all they can from the emigrants. They do it sneakingly. We met 200 teams going east to meet emigrants from the old countries--a great many from England, I suppose. It would be better for them if they went to the bottom of the Atlantic; their troubles would be over. But as soon as they get to Utah, God help them! It is a burning shame and a bitter curse to the civilized world, to allow such devilish proceedings to be carried on before their very eyes. Never mind, old skinflint, Uncle Sam will be after you some of these days, then look out for painters. Whenever that time comes old Lew Derner will be there sure enough. From the head of Echo Canyon to the mouth where it enters into the river is 30 miles. The further we go down the higher the cliffs are on each side, and the more crooked and narrower. The U.P.R.R. runs down the canyon. We camped at the mouth, on Weber. Made 30 miles rough driving.--13th: Up Weber about seven miles and crossed and up Parleys Canyon. Passed Parleys Peak, and camped in Summit Canyon, about five miles from Salt Lake City. 25 miles.--14th: Down to great Salt Lake City. Awfully crooked roads. Made 15 miles.--15th: Lay over all day right in the middle of the city, in the emigrants' corral. The great Salt Lake City is a very nice clean-looking place. I believe it is the finest-looking city I ever saw. It is laid off in even squares, with a row of shady trees on each side of every street, with pure cold mountain water flowing under the trees. It was very hot when I was there. I got a cold drink at noon. It is situated about two miles from the foot of the hills. Four or five miles east of the city frowns Camp Douglas, with the Stars and Stripes floating proudly at the masthead. To the south as far as the eye can reach lies a large valley through which the river Jordan pursues its onward course. To the west lies our course over the mountains and across the plain. The lake lies northwest of the city some seven or eight miles. Lots of English in the city. Some very fine buildings. I saw Brigham Young's dwelling house. It is very strongly barricaded all round. They have got a very large and beautiful temple, round like a circus. One more word for them. It is a pity that such a place is in the possession of such a race of people. I told some of them just what I thought.--16th: Shoved out and crossed the Jordan. Camped at the point of Rock Station. Here we had nothing but salt water to drink. Made 12 miles.--17th: Passed Young's Station and camped near Tooele City. 30 miles.--18th: Through Stockton. Nooned near another small lake. Camped at Center Station. This point is 52 miles west of Salt Lake City.--19th, Sunday: Passed Point Lookout, and camped. I went to the top and cut my name in a cedar tree. Had a view of fifty miles all round me. Away to the east lay the blue waters of the Great Salt Lake.--20th: Made Simpson Springs. Oh for the desert now!--21st: Lay over till three o'clock. We cut some grass with our knives; filled our water bags, and watered our animals, and pulled out for the desert. Got to the river bed at dusk. 12 miles. Here we stopped 15 minutes, and took grub, and then on. Passed Dugout Station. 15 miles. Still on in the dark. We stopped again about three o'clock. Fed our animals, watered them, and rested about an hour or two and then on again. By this time the day began to dawn. Then passed Black Rock Station. 12 miles. Here we had salt water. Gave our animals a little, then on to Fish Springs, 12 miles. Here we had but alkali water. This was the morning of the 22nd. Lay over.--23rd: Came to Willow Springs. Here we had good, cold mountain water. 12 miles. Lay over. We are now across the desert. Good grass and wood. 78 miles across; no grass, and very bad water, and not much of it to be had. Hot as thunder in the day.--24th: Made Deep Creek. 26 miles. Here we had a very bad and rocky road. Very steep.--25th: Made Spring Creek, Nevada. 10 miles. Lay over in the afternoon, as it is 25 miles to water.--26th, Sunday: Made 25 miles, and camped in a canyon; a nice cool night we had here.--27th: Crossed a range of mountains, and camped at Shell Creek. Made 20 miles.--28th: Crossed Steptoe Valley, and camped in Egan Canyon. Here is a little mining town. 16 miles.--29th: Passed the Buttes and camped at Mountain Springs. Made 30 miles. Here we had splendid water.--30th: Early this morning our camp was roused by a young stranger. A lady had given birth to a fine boy. We lay over on the 31st. Oh, how we went after the cold water!--August 1st: Passed Ruby Valley and camped at Jacob's Well. Made 22 miles.--2nd: Made Diamond Springs. 12 miles. Here we had the hardest pull up Diamond Mountain.--3rd: Passed Sulfur Springs and camped at Roberts Creek. Made 25 miles; not much grass.--4th: Passed Grub Spring and camped at Dry Creek. Made 25 miles; plenty of water.--5th: Took a cutoff and made Summit Springs; a mile from Austin City. 25 miles. Austin is a very lively place. A great many mines here, gold and silver; principally quartz mines. Here you will find people from all parts of the globe--lots of Chinese. There was a great Republican meeting while I was there. I heard the Senator Stevens address the miners of Nevada. He was assisted by several able and talented gentlemen of California. He was just in from the eastern states and was met by a body of horsemen, and escorted into town amidst the roaring of cannon and playing of music. They played that good old tune--"I had a dream, a happy dream." We had a good meeting and closed with "Home, Sweet Home." From the 6th to the 23rd we stayed near Austin, went to work and let our animals recruit up a little. I worked 5 days and got two dollars a day in gold, and boarded; that was ten dollars more in pocket.--23rd, Sunday morning: Struck out and camped in Smith Creek Canyon. Made 25 miles.--24th: Made 25 miles. Very dusty. Made Emigrant Springs. Good water.--25th: Made Westgate Station, and camped. No wood. Made 15 miles.--26th: Made Sand Springs. Here we had salt water. Made 15 miles.--27th: Crossed Carson River; went up on it and camped on it. Made 27 miles.--28th: Made Ragtown. It consists of one house, barn, and blacksmith's shop, &c. 12 miles.--29th: Left Ragtown. We had a very bad road, sandy and dusty. Made Truckee River. 23 miles.--20th: Crossed Truckee River by ferry, and the western division of the U.P.R.R., and camped. 18 miles.--31st: Made Reno. It is a very fine city, and is not six months old, and contains several thousand inhabitants. Here we crossed and recrossed the R.R. about a dozen times in a canyon--very dangerous. 20 miles.--Sept. 1st: Left Reno. Made Peavine. Here we struck the settlements. Camped; made 12 miles.--2nd: Made Long Valley, California, and camped. Made 20 miles. Nice-looking country.--3rd: Made Honey Lake, and camped. Made 28 miles. This is a very large lake--lots of ducks and geese.--4th: Passed Milford and Janesville. Here are some splendid valley ranches. 22 miles.--5th: Passed through Susanville. At the head of Honey Lake from Reno to this point, which is nearly due north a hundred miles, all along the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada is some splendid mountain scenery, quite different from the Rocky Mountains. These mountains are covered by thick pine and cedar timber, the best I ever saw. We ascended the eastern slope of the S.N.M. We had very rough roads over these mounts. We are alone now. One wagon, C. M. Crane's family and me. The other emigrants left us at Reno. They were for California. This was our nearest road, so we took it. We found a good cold spring and some grass. Plenty of wood. 16 miles.--6th: We went through large forests. We have left the settlements again. Here we got lonesome. It blew up a storm while we were on the mountains. Camped on Deep Creek. 16 miles.--7th: Passed Pine Creek, and camped on Butte Creek. Here we found a shepherd's camp--two men with 4,000 sheep. We made 20 miles. Lay over.--8th: Lay over. Hunting with one of the shepherds. They told us that ten Indians had been seen at the back of Pine Creek the day we crossed it. The Piute Indians have murdered a whole family a little north of this point. There was some danger, they said. Here is a place to take up land if it was not too far from settlements; good stock farming.--9th: Another wagon came along. We traveled with them right through. We made Pit River at dusk, and traveled hard all day. Made 35 miles.--10th: Crossed Pit River. Passed Fort Creek, and into the woods again, and found good grass, water and wood. Camped. It was a beautiful camp ground. Before us was a cold spring, surrounded on every side by a large forest. We took supper and made a good fire in a low place so that it would not be visible at any distance. The other man was born in London, England. We had a big talk. He had been a tailor. We told yarns till midnight almost. 20 miles.--11th: Passed Bear Creek, Bear Flat, and camped at Shasta Buttes. It was all covered with snow. Here we made a dry camp. Not having ascertained the particulars, we camped very late. 35 miles.--12th: We had to travel 20 miles for water, then two more and camped. 29 miles.--13th, Sunday morning: We entered Shasta Valley--a nice-looking place. We crossed the Klamath River by ferry and camped at Cottonwood City. Made 35 miles.--14th: Crossed the Siskiyou Mountains. Then we were in Oregon--the land of rosy apples and fat girls. We got all the apples we could eat that night. They gave us a sackful to take along with me so we have had plenty ever since. 20 miles.--15th: Passed through Jacksonville in Rogue River Valley. Here the country is rolling hills and dales. Settlers along the streams. This valley beats the Umpqua Valley. 25 miles.--17th: Crossed and turned up Cow Creek. Made 25 miles.--18th: Crossed the Umpqua River and down it. 25 miles.--19th: Made Roseburg. 17 miles. Oregon is a rough, rugged, hilly, rolling country, down in the Willamette Valley excepted. There it is level, in fact too level. The reason why I did not write sooner is because I have been away on a three-hundred-mile cruise. I have just got back and before I went down I was too busy. I received yours of the 30th. It was about six weeks in coming. It came by San Francisco, California. As soon as I got your letter I went 18 miles [to] where I had my things; that is the reason I was longer. This is my second writing. Well, now, a brief account of my cruise to the Willamette Valley. I was well mounted on a full-blooded Spanish mustang--the best little traveler I ever straddled. She was raised down in California. I paid sixty dollars in gold for her, saddle, bridle, &c. My course lay due south nearly through Winchester Ferry, the North Umpqua River, through Wilbur, and to Oakland by noon. Lay over in the afternoon. Stayed with my friend C. M. Crane, who lives there. Next day struck out towards the Calapooya Mountains. I stayed all night at the foot of the mountains. I next crossed the mtns., and saw a half dozen white-tailed deer. If I had had a rifle with me I could have had one or two. These mountains are covered with pine and cedar, mostly very fine timber, and the further north the heavier the timber. On this trip I traveled the worst roads I ever saw--knee-deep in mud, and raining like sixty all the time. I had a good overcoat, so I did not suffer much. It was the worst traveling I have ever done in my life. In some places the water was up to my saddle girths. I was nearly swimming in several places. I was out in the rain five or six days, and was alone nearly all the time. I should occasionally meet or pass some traveler like myself. There is one beautiful view I have seen in Oregon. From the top of the mountain down into the Willamette Valley away to the north as far as the eye can reach is one broad, level valley. I could see over 50 miles to the north, in the middle of which runs the graceful Willamette. I crossed it by ferry at Eugene City, the highest point of navigation for steamers; then an eastern course for five or six miles, then across the Mackenzie Fork by ferry. I passed Harrisburg, Brownsville, Albany and Jefferson, all good-sized towns. I went down as far as Salem, and then back. I was on business. I got back all right except [for] a bad cold, I am now in Oakland with my friend Crane; but I tell you I don't like this raining at all. You must excuse me for not writing sooner. When you get this letter I want you to have it published in some of the papers. I was glad to see that Mr. Shaw had got elected. I should have liked to have been in Burnley at the time, so that I could have voted for him. I and another fellow was out hunting in the hills the other day. We killed a wild hog and a deer and wounded another. Lots of game here. Bears and panthers both.
Yours, &c.,
    JIM MITCHELL.

Burnley Gazette, Burnley, Lancashire, England, February 27, 1869, page 6




Last revised September 24, 2024