Travelers' descriptions and assessments of the state of things.


    Gen. Lane* in Washington had given me a number of letters of introduction to officers and other gentlemen in various parts of Oregon; these letters were of great benefit to me in giving me the advice and assistance I needed, especially the letter to Capt. Gordon in Roseburg. Gordon is a consummate gentleman of true Virginian blood, and through his participation in the Indian wars and his hunting expeditions he has acquired an extensive knowledge of the topography of Oregon. When I told him that I was quite discouraged because I had not found a suitable land for a large settlement, he replied: "Do not despair, I know a section of land for you and your companions on which 400 families can comfortably settle; the same has all the qualities you desire, and is in the valley of the best land in Oregon." He now pointed out to me the valley of the Coquille River.
    I reached the same from Roseburg in three days. My journey was over the mountain ranges that stretched near the coast, about 3,000 feet above sea level, then down the middle and south branches of the Coquille River until I reached the junction of the middle and southern branches and came into the main valley. From here the river takes a northerly and then southwesterly course towards the Pacific Ocean. Six miles below the junction of the middle and southern arms it meets the northern one. So united, the river is 100-150 yards wide and 14 feet deep, the tide extends more than 50 miles outwards, and in the rainy season (winter) the flood goes much further out into the individual branches, as does the water in all of them. At this time of year water rises 25-35 feet above the level it occupies in the dry season (summer).
    The Coquille and its tributaries are rich in salmon and trout; in spring and autumn the vast majority of salmon move up the main river to its individual branches. The bed of the river is gravelly and sandy and contains gold; but so far gold is being mined only on some of the upper tributaries and near the mouth of the Coquille, on the beaches of the ocean. The mouth of the Coquille is narrow and partly blocked by sandbanks and rocks, so that only steamboats and small sailing ships can pass through it. The river is navigable for small steamers 50 miles upstream, as far as the tide reaches. The Coquille is a truly beautiful river, winding through the bottomlands of a splendid valley, whose rich bottoms, hills, and magnificent prairies are unparalleled in any other part of Oregon. The valley is 3-5 miles wide, including the hills which border the bottoms; the bottomland lies on both sides of the river and extends from it ¼ to 1 mile, in thousands of hills. The soil of the bottoms consists of rich loam with a substratum of dark clay, and is an average of 10 feet deep; in some places the clay is mixed with some sand. The wealth and fertility of the soil emerge from the hills as well as the actual valley; the grasses, the trees and all the vegetation show the most luxuriant growth. The prairies have an abundance of useful and ornamental plants and offer delicious food to the bees all year round. The willow never withers, except in tight places near rocks; It is best in winter and spring. The bottoms are covered with moorland, ash and maple, the hills with pine, red and white cedar, hemlock, live oak, red alder, meadow balsam, etc. Pines and cedars reach a height of 150-250, and sometimes more than 300 feet. The undergrowth in the forests, both in the heights and in the bottoms, consists of the most diverse species of trees, shrubs and smaller trees: hazelnut, wild cherry, wild plum, black elderberry, willow, crabapple, raspberry, black, blue and red blueberries, blackberries, wild grapes, rose licorice, etc., and a multitude of other shrubs, etc. The most luxuriant vegetation develops from the prairie and from the open mountain ridges where the tall trees are burnt, in short, everywhere where the sun shines its rays unhindered. The bridal grass, the blue, wild timothy and other grasses, the blue and yellow wild clover, the Oregon pea, the wolf bean, the wild sourflower, the lily, and many other plants, some nutritious, some beautiful, cover the prairie. The wild clover grows in such abundance and density over many fields that it falls over and rots on the spot. Where the prairies are burnt down at the end of September or the beginning of October, the young grasses come up immediately after the first rain, which usually occurs at the end of the same day, and at the end of October or the beginning of November, when the rainy or winter season is pleasant, the young grasses thicken and cover the whole prairie 6 inches high. The seeds of most other plants also go out at this time and they grow throughout the winter. Violets and other flowers bloom all winter long. The horses, cattle, elk, deer, etc. fatten themselves over the winter with the young grass and other nutritious plants; bulls of 3 to 4 years weigh 800-1000 pounds in the spring. Wild geese come to roost in winter and feed on the young grass. The wildlife is so good all year round that oxen that are not put to work regularly become so sick that they can no longer be used for work. The cows harvest the rich pasture and produce the finest milk I have ever tasted. The butter is extraordinarily strong and good and the calves look unusually good and grow so quickly some reach maturity at just 16 months old. The pigs feast on the nuts of the trees in the bottoms, oak trees, dead berries and roots.
   
*Editor’s note. As Dr. Hermann the left the East, Gen. Lane was in Washington as a delegate from the Oregon Territory. Now, as is well known, Lane is a federal Senator from the new state of Oregon.
Baltimore Wecker, February 23, 1859, page 2  Translated with Google Translate.


    A very remarkable feature of the Coquille Valley is the almost total absence of stones on the surface of the earth, both on the mountains, and in the bottoms. Only here and there does a rounded flint, quartz, porphyry or serpentine rock emerge from this deep alluvial soil.
    The varied soil of the Coquille Valley; the sandy banks of the river are subject to regular flooding in winter; the rich, loamy myrtle bottoms, which are inundated only a day or two when the water reaches its utmost height; the loamy and clayey hill country; the strong messenger of the heights bordering the valley, rising 100-150 feet, which are partly covered with a soil 1½ feet deep composed of rotten wood; the rich black soil of the prairies and the variously colored (red, blue, black, etc.) heavy and mostly clayey soil of the higher mountains; the fertility of this diverse soil, which remains the same everywhere and in all seasons, which is promoted in winter by rain and partial flooding of the bottoms, but in summer by moist sea winds, nightly dew and a rain shower that occurs almost every month; the direction of the valley from east to southwest; the hills and mountains surrounding the valley, which break the power of the cold and biting northwest wind in summer, so that it only comes to the valley as a cooling balm; the flood, which extends from the sea 50 miles up the river; the gradual elevation of the ground from bottom to hill country, which then gradually rises to the coastal mountain range rising 3,000 feet above the sea level; the sufficient heat in summer, especially on the south side of the hills; finally the pleasant, mild weather and winter--all this together enables this country to produce almost every kind of vegetable, grain, and fruit that grows from Maine to Florida, and makes the Coquille Valley the richest land in Uncle Sam's extensive domain.
    Because the Coquille Valley and the surrounding areas were until recently inhabited by Indians, and because several Indian wars then took place, which, however, ended due to the removal of the Indians to the reservation at Umpqua City; so the settlement of the valley by white people only began about two years ago, covering an area of ​​75 miles. About 30 claims were taken out by settlers, mostly single men. In 1857 and 1858 about five townships of the best land on both sides of the river were surveyed. Most of the settlers built a hut and cut down a few trees on their claim just to secure the right to buy boron [sic]; but only the married settlers have made real improvements and cultivated the soil to a greater extent. In the entire valley I have hardly seen 300 acres of land under cultivation and only a few acres plowed. If the ground is cleared, the seed is scattered and dug or dug in without any plowing being done beforehand, and yet the field itself yields 40 bushels of wheat and 60 bushels of oats. All the grains and vegetables that I saw planted here grew to the highest perfection, and never in my life did I enjoy tastier bread, more delicious vegetables and meat, better milk and butter than here in Coquille Valley. The entire vegetation here shows lush natural growth everywhere; this develops all the more in cultivated plants. Wheat, oats, etc. not only bear fruit freely for years, but they bear this fruit twice a year, as I have seen before. The same is the case with grains, beans and other garden vegetables. They become extremely large; I have seen cabbages weighing 38 pounds, potatoes weighing 1-6 pounds. (I dug potatoes of this size myself from a claim I had bought from the garden land, which had not been worked with a spade or a plow before the potatoes were planted.) In addition to the vegetables already mentioned, yellow turnips, turnips and radishes grew, onions, turnips, parsnips, tomatoes, etc. in abundance and become very large, as well as cucumbers, muskmelons, watermelons with the finest smell and taste. As far as grain is concerned, in addition to wheat and oats, barley, buckwheat and corn also grow well, the latter becoming completely rice in the bottoms and the field containing about 60 bushels. Fruit was grown organically, none at all; some 1-2-year-old trees have been planted that are growing vigorously; I saw one peach on a small two-year-old tree. I saw young trees that had arisen from a small branch planted in the ground in the manner of willows. There is no doubt that fruit of all kinds, even grapes, lemons and oranges, thrive here and that this fruit will form a major export article. However, the first settlers can certainly do without fruit in the first few years, as the whole country has the greatest abundance of the most delicious berries, which can be collected for nine months of the year: yellow and common raspberries, dew and blackberries, gooseberries, strawberries, white berries, black, blue and red blueberries, cranberries, various other types of berries and wild plums.
    Although all domestic animals here multiply so quickly, the settler who starts with a cow, a mother pig and a few chickens becomes rich in such domestic animals within five years, yet only a few fat piglets and chickens are advertised for domestic use slaughtered. As far as meat is concerned, people devote themselves entirely to hunting: deer, elk and bear skins form the main food and taste excellent; there can be no better meat. They also provide a lot of fat that is used in cooking, as it is more beneficial to health than regular lard. One elk sometimes yields over 100 pounds of suet. There are plenty of elk, deer and bears here; in winter you can see elk in herds of 150 or more from the prairies. Raccoons, opossums, beavers, squirrels, as well as geese, ducks, curlews, hazel grouses, quails, and all kinds of wildfowl abound. Fish are also plentiful: As already mentioned, the Coquille is teeming with salmon and trout, and at the mouth of the river and on the seacoast anchovy, herring, sardines, lobster, mussels, etc. etc. are just as plentiful.
    Little has been known about the mineral wealth of the country, because the minerals on the sides and summits of the mountains are hidden by the deep soil and only appear in a few ravines and riverbeds. But this much is confirmed that gold, coal, iron ore, copper, iridium, lead, potter's clay, building and other valuable stones are present in the river. Gold mining operations are in operation in various places and with varying degrees of success, making individuals $3-$12 per day. Once the Coquille Valley is more densely populated, all kinds of foodstuffs will of course be produced more abundantly and other goods will also become cheaper, so that the miners will no longer pay such exorbitant prices for their needs, in fact probably ⅔ less than before. Then the gold diggings will multiply in the Coquille Valley and on all its tributaries; because then the miners can not only meet their needs cheaper, but also closer to their workplaces, i.e., with less cell loss, and thus advertise themselves with a lower yield ($2-$3 per day). The settler can also, if he has free time or needs money, go to the nearest river and pan for $2-$3 gold a day, and if he's lucky, more. I have seen copper in small pieces, and in a ravine at the source of the southern branch of the Coquille there is, as an old Indian chief claimed, hidden a deposit of copper which will one day be uncovered and worked upon. The coals run in a horizontal vein 5-6 feet thick through the hills on the Coquille, and will form a valuable export article in the future. I visited several coal mines on Coos Bay, worked by various companies; this coal is brought on sailing ships to San Francisco and other markets.
    The wood in the Coquille Valley can hardly be found anywhere else: our famous wood is considered by the carpenters to be equal to mahogany; just as excellent is the white and red cedar wood, the wood of the pine, ash, maple and live oak.
    I traveled from here to Coos Bay and the Coos River, along the coast of the Pacific Ocean to the mouth of the Umpqua River, and out that river to Scottsburg and the Elk River, I have the Smith River, a pretty one, from north to south flowing and at Gardiner 6 miles above the mouth of the Umpqua itself in this flowing river; but nowhere have I met land so well suited for a large settlement as this one on the Coquille. It is true that I have not been to the great Willamette Valley because there is no longer any land available there for a larger settlement; but from the information which I have obtained from all parts of Oregon, I can assure you most definitely that the land of the Coquille leaves behind all other parts of Oregon, and all the country in California, as to wealth and fertility of the soil throughout the year, and beyond the natural sources of legumes, minerals, vegetables and animals and especially the climate.
    As for the climate, let me mention the following: since my departure from San Francisco I have traveled almost 1000 miles through valleys in the south and through the mountains; I was exposed to a wide variety of hardships and weather conditions, camping in dry and wet weather, wrapped in a carpet made of bare earth, having previously become damp in the rain; I was wet to the skin for days; I drank all kinds of running water and ate all kinds of food, wild berries, wild things, fruit, raw and cooked meat and vegetables; I made the whole journey wearing one and the same clothes; and yet, even though I am already quite advanced in manhood, I have always been healthy and whole and now feel as strong and strong as I did in my younger years; I do my daily work with this method and with a pick, and I thank God that I can work like this and that I have gotten rid of the stress that plagued me as long as I was busy in urban practice, packed in a carriage.
Baltimore Wecker, February 24, 1859, page 2  Translated with Google Translate.


    TRIP FROM PORTLAND, OREGON TO SHASTA.--Messrs. Baker & Covington arrived in town yesterday afternoon from Portland, Oregon, via Eugene City, Yreka, Shasta, etc. They left Portland on the 11th of May, with nine mules. About the 20th they traveled eight or ten miles through the snow between the South Umpqua and Rogue rivers, following the trail only by the blazes on the trees. They stopped in a little valley to rest, and while asleep were aroused by what they supposed to be the bursting of a cap, but owing to the thickness of the brush, etc., could not ascertain the cause of the alarm, although strongly inclined to think that Indians were about. On or about the 23rd they encamped about sixty-five miles beyond Shasta, and in the morning discovered that their mules were missing. Four of them were found subsequently about five miles from the encampment, and after a further hunt found the balance in another direction. In hunting for the latter they came upon a rancheria of about 400 Indians, nearly a mile from their camping ground. They say that persons not acquainted with the trail between Rogue River and the South Umpqua had better give it wide berth. On that route Baker had the good fortune to kill a black bear with his revolver.
Sacramento Daily Union, June 2, 1859, page 3


    THE DISPUTED TERRITORY BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND OREGON.--A traveling correspondent of the Christian Advocate, writes thus:
    From Cottonwood, it is twelve miles to the summit of the Siskiyou Mountains, at the point of crossing. The country is broken and mountainous for some twenty miles, the road being quite passable for loaded teams. Pilot Rock, some two miles to the right as you travel north, lifts its bold head above its fellows, as if to serve some special purpose, but I do not profess to understand its silent teaching. Just here is a strip of "border territory," disputed ground, between California and Oregon. I do not know the grounds or merits of the controversy in regard to the line between these Pacific states, at point; but it serves a very important purpose for an individual residing here. As I learn, he lives in Oregon or California, or "somewhere," as the case may be. He lives in O. or C. as the collectors call for taxes from either side, and so he lives nowhere, and though he has some $25,000 of property, the treasury of Siskiyou or Jackson County is never replenished by levies upon it. It seems to me there is a way to "define this man's position."
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, July 15, 1859, page 4


    JACKSONVILLE AND VICINITY.--Jacksonville is the seat of justice for Jackson County. It is at the base of a mountain, and overlooks Rogue River Valley and those of its tributaries, Stuart's Creek, and Big and Little Butte creeks. We could not learn the number of inhabitants, but suppose there may be five hundred or more. About one thousand votes are cast at the annual election in the county. The buildings are generally of wood, though there are several substantial brick stores and business buildings. The Methodists have a church of fair dimensions and appearance. The Romanists are now completing one. There are no others in the town. There is a flourishing Sunday school connected with our congregation.
    The valleys referred to are all settled, and many of the farms are under good cultivation. The various hardy grains, including corn, grow here; and generally, a fair average yield is realized. Stock ranges on the foothills and mountains, and is the chief staple of the country. The grain crop is light this season, and stock is as high as with us, or nearly so.--Christian Advocate.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, July 19, 1859, page 1


    Having business in the interior, on Saturday the 23rd ult., we secured a seat in McLellan, Mann & Co.'s stage for Sailor Diggings, and long before the break of day were aroused from our slumbers by the felicitous voice of our friend, Sam Hillman, informing us that it was time to "git up and git." Hastily dressing, and casting a hurried glance at the Great Mogul of the Anti-Lecomptonites, lying safely ensconced in the arms of Morpheus, dreaming of the brilliant victories to be achieved by his party in September next, we made for the stable, like a quarter-horse running the last heat, when after trying a "nip" or two of "Baxter's best," we took our seat in the coach, and Charley cracking the whip, the horses went off at a brisk rate, and ere long left the slumbering city behind us. On they speed through Elk Valley, and as Old Sol began to make his appearance from behind the hills, arrived at the first station. By this time, our appetite being pretty keen, we sat down to an excellent breakfast, prepared by Mr. Meyer, formerly of the "City Hotel." Took a fresh team, and started for the next station, stopping only at the "Robber's Den" (Clendenin's) to water the horses and liquor ourselves; arriving at Rockland about half past eleven o'clock. Found the good-looking junior partner of that establishment on hand, ready to render whatever assistance in his power to make comfortable the fatigued and weary traveler. After indulging pretty freely in water and soap and rubbing and brushing the dust from our exterior person, we began to look like a white man again, proceeded to the dining room and appeased our craving appetite. Having but little time to spend, we bid adieu to our amiable friends and Master James Buchanan Cook (may he live to be as great and good a patriot to his country as his illustrious namesake), the eldest scion of our worthy driver. The team being a fresh one, commenced ascending the North Fork Mountain, and in the course of two hours reached its summit. Descending at a rapid rate we soon arrived at the hospitable abode of Mrs. Murphy (familiarly called Widow Murphy), who is, by the bye, "a broth of a gal." Inquiring if she kept anything stimulating for the inner man, were answered no, but plenty of pure, cold water, which was more invigorating than bad whiskey. We also found her in a very badly disordered state of mind, owing to the boys on the road not strictly confining themselves to the truth when speaking about her affairs. Procure a shillelagh, Mrs. Murphy, and wear it out over their heads if they don't quit telling their stories about you. Changing teams again, we were once more jolting over the road for Sailor Diggings, stopping at McGrew's to water, and try some Scott Valley [sic]. From this point the road is comparatively level to Sailor Diggings, where we arrived, pretty well worn out, at about six o'clock p.m. Dismounting, we found ourselves in front of Logan & Thompson's new hotel, one of the very best in the state of Oregon. The table is all that the most fastidious epicurean could desire, and the house is furnished in the most sumptuous style. Got supper and took a stroll through town to "see the sights." Business of all kinds appeared to be lively, and the inhabitants doing well and prospering. Finally found ourselves in the billiard saloon of Messrs. Walls & Huntingdon, took a drink or two with some "honest miners" "who there do congregate," and concluded to retire to bed. Stepping across the street to the hotel, one of the gentlemanly proprietors conducted us to our apartment for the night, and we were soon in the land of dreams, sleeping as only tired individuals know how to sleep.
    About two o'clock in the morning we thought pandemonium had turned itself loose, and his Satanic Majesty was visiting this "mundane sphere" for the purpose of gathering together all his loyal subjects. Rubbing our eyes, and not thinking the time had yet arrived, we then imagined ourselves at the battle of Magenta, amidst the thunder of Louis Napoleon's artillery, and the Austrian bugles sounding for retreat. Wondering what could be out, looked out of the window, and the first words that saluted our ears was some fellow, with a pair of stentorian lungs, bellowing forth, "toot your horns, boys." Our fears being considerably relieved, we soon ascertained that the harmonious strains emanated from the Sailor Diggings brass band, under the leadership of Frank Freer, awakening passengers for the stages.
    Taking our seat for Jacksonville, we went whirling through Illinois Valley, at a rapid rate, arriving at Kerbyville in time for breakfast. The stage stopped in front of Vining's hotel, met several acquaintances and went to breakfast. After breakfasting, and meeting several more friends, were about resuming our seat in the coach when we observed a beautiful young lady occupying it. Discovered several other unoccupied seats, but fearing we might become captivated with the graceful charms of the young and lovely female passenger, and perhaps lose our susceptible heart, and never more return here, we concluded to take a seat on the "hurricane deck," with Mr. Ballard, the driver. Found him to be quite an intelligent and agreeable companion, modest and unassuming, yet bold and courageous when necessity requires it. Traveling through Illinois Valley, and changing horses but once, we arrived at the ranch of our old friend Hugh Heaps, where the passengers stop for dinner. Found Hugh all right, only regretting the loss of his cook, who was married a few days previous. He wants to engage another, and any female wanting a good situation would do well to take advantage of Hugh's offer, and she might, perhaps, contract a partnership with him for life. We were now in Applegate Valley, and within five hours ride of Jacksonville; found the valley tolerably well settled up with enterprising and thrifty farmers. Changing horses for the last time about fifteen miles this side of Jacksonville, we were soon ascending the mountain; arriving at its summit, the traveler can see one of the loveliest views he almost ever beheld. As far as the eye can reach, he sees nothing but one vast plain, dotted here and there with trees. Fields of teeming grain and bands of roving cattle everywhere meet his vision. Descending the mountain we reached our destination at five o'clock p.m.
    The town of Jacksonville is pleasantly located at the head of Rogue River Valley. The principal business buildings are fireproof and are of the most substantial structure. Its citizens are rich and prosperous, refined and intelligent. Everywhere appears life and animation, a sure sign of prosperity. Not a vacant house is to be found in the place. All are satisfied and contented; for they are doing well. The farmers, too, in the Valley, are making solid and substantial improvements on their farms. Like the business men of Jacksonville, they are generally wealthy. Nearly every foot of arable land is under cultivation. Jackson County is now considered one of the wealthiest in the state of Oregon, and when her mineral resources are fully developed, she will rank, in point of population and wealth, second to no other county on the Pacific Coast. All that is wanted to develop her vast mineral wealth is water. A ditch can be constructed, at a moderate cost, to the extensive mining region in and around Jacksonville, which whenever completed will enable hundreds of miners to find employment. Whenever that is accomplished, we predict that Jacksonville will rival Yreka, and become the largest inland town in Oregon.
    We met many old friends and formed many new acquaintances. Among the former, we met our generous-hearted friend, Capt. J. W. Hillman, who is esteemed by all who know him for his many noble qualities of heart and soul. We were happy to make the acquaintance of Col. W. G. T'Vault, the able editor of the Oregon Sentinel. The Col. has but recently fought a bitter and unrelenting battle against the factious opponents of the Democratic Party, and we were glad to learn by the election of Stout that he was triumphantly sustained by the people of Southern Oregon. Truly the Democratic Party are under many obligations to him for the able manner in which he conducted the last campaign in the southern portion of the state. He has also occupied many honorable and responsible stations in Oregon, both in her council chambers and on her battle fields, and surely none are more deserving of the honors of the Democratic Party of Oregon than Col. T'Vault.
    Having been invited by a friend to take a ride round the Valley, we availed ourselves of the kind offer, visited different localities and were much pleased with the appearance of the country. Rogue River Valley is certainly the "garden spot" of Oregon, and her citizens are as hospitable and generous as can be found in any community on the Pacific  Coast. We return our sincere thanks to many friends in Jacksonville, and never shall forget the pleasure of our trip there. 
Crescent City Herald, August 3, 1859, page 2  Attributed to Upton Barr Freaner.


    A NORTHERN VALLEY.--The editor of the Crescent City Herald, in describing a recent trip through some portions of Southern Oregon, refers to Applegate Valley: "We found the valley tolerably well settled up with enterprising farmers. Changing horses for the last time about fifteen miles this side of Jacksonville, we were soon ascending the mountain; arriving at its summit, the traveler can see one of the loveliest views he almost ever beheld. As far as the eye can reach, he sees nothing but one vast plain, dotted here and there with trees. Fields of teeming grain and bands of roving cattle everywhere met his vision."
Sacramento Daily Union, August 11, 1859, page 2


    We noticed some time ago the visit of Mr. Freaner, of the Crescent City Herald, to this place. In the Herald of the 3rd inst., the leading article is a "trip to the interior," from which we make the following extract. From the style and feeling manifested by Mr. Freaner towards the good people of the interior, we should not be astonished if he becomes one of them. Just read what he says about our own town:
    "The town of Jacksonville is pleasantly located at the head of Rogue River Valley. The principal business buildings are fireproof and are of the most substantial structure. Its citizens are rich and prosperous, refined and intelligent. Everywhere appears life and animation, a sure sign of prosperity. Not a vacant house is to be found in the place. All are satisfied and contented, for they are doing well. The farmers, too, in the valley are making solid and substantial improvements on their farms. Like the business men of Jacksonville, they are generally wealthy. Nearly every foot of arable land is under cultivation. Jackson County is now considered one of the wealthiest in the state of Oregon, and when her mineral resources are fully developed, she will rank, in point of population and wealth, second to no other county on the Pacific Coast. All that is wanted to develop her vast mineral wealth is water. A ditch can be constructed, at a moderate cost, to the extensive region in and around Jacksonville, which whenever completed, will enable hundreds of miners to find employment. Whenever that is accomplished, we predict that Jacksonville will rival Yreka, and become the largest inland town in Oregon."
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, August 13, 1859, page 2


    Editor of the San Francisco Bulletin:--The country lying between the summit of the Cascade Range, overlooking Rogue River Valley and Klamath Lake, and extending from Mount McLoughlin on the north to the California line, has been but little visited, and I think no description has been published of its physical character, condition and agricultural capabilities. To supply this want, I have prepared some notes of a government survey and exploration undertaken in company with Deputy Surveyor S. T. Truax.
    The survey gives opportunity for minute examination of townships in Ranges 37, 38 and 39 south, and 3, 4, 5 and 6 east, while the tour of observation extended over the most of the country indicated, embracing a range of about 25 townships, or 900 square miles. About one-halt of this is unfit for settlement, being too rugged for tillage, and too elevated for fruits or cereals, but the remainder embraces some of the finest country in the Pacific States, and is well worthy the attention of those interested in developing their resources.
    We made the ascent by the Soda Springs, leaving the Yreka road about two miles south of Judge Tolman's residence. These springs are worthy of notice. They are situated about five miles from the road in the foothills. The waters flow abundantly from the seams of the rock, and as they are in an attractive situation and easy of access; they will be resorted to by persons suffering from weakness and indigestion, for which they are said to prove especially beneficial. No analysis has been made of them, but they bear a striking resemblance, in taste, to the Congress Spring at Saratoga, while the ferruginous deposit shows a larger proportion of iron, giving greater tonic effect.
    The ascent of the mountains at this point is gradual and easy, though generally the western slope is rocky and precipitous. The general elevation is about 2,000 feet above Rogue River Valley, or 3,500 feet above the sea level. This is about the average elevation of the country examined, being about 1,500 feet lower than the plateau of the Sierra Nevada, the general aspect of which it very much resembles, although the prairies are not so broad, being more broken by peaks and ridges. The hills, also, are more thickly settled, and the timber is of a better description.
    After crossing the summit there is a descent of a few hundred feet, which is so gradual as hardly to be perceptible, which brings you upon these elevated plains. On the other side of the plateau there is another ridge or sierra, extending south by southwest from the high table land lying east of Mount McLoughlin, known here as the "Snowy Butte," and separating the waters of the Upper Klamath and Klamath Lake from those of Bear Creek, flowing southerly into the Lower Klamath, and Butte Creek flowing northwesterly into Rogue River. The small prairies scattered over this region are watered by these streams and their tributaries, which, although not carrying large quantities of water, are well distributed for purposes of irrigation. In some localities, indeed, they fork past each other, flowing in opposite directions, where there is hardly a noticeable divide. These prairies are bounded and configured by small hills or buttes, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, and by spurs of the mountains, which give them as many arms as Briareus. Frequently their glades intersect between the hills, so that by a winding course almost the whole district could be traversed without any hard travel, and level roads can be constructed in almost any direction.
    The soil is generally a sandy or gravelly loam, and, where it is well watered, produces the natural grasses in great abundance. There are no swamps or tule lands, and no marshes except some of small extent, where the water finds no ready outlet; or else those indefatigable mechanics, the beavers, have overflowed the lands by means of their ingenious structures. The dry, sandy benches rising from the prairies and lying against the hills contain little organic matter, and so give birth to little vegetation besides timber, except service and whortleberry, and occasionally prickly oak and heather. But the timber is of the finest description, so that a fair proportion of this land is as important to the settler as that for crops and grazing.
    The mountains furnish abundance of fir and cedar, together with some white oak and yew. But, for most building purposes, the pines which grow on these sandy benches are the most useful as well as the most convenient. There is a white pine which grows on moist land, and resembles the white pine of the East in texture; but it is much smaller, and differs in its botanical character. That to which I refer is a yellow pine of good size and height, is easily worked, and makes fine clear lumber. The redwood and cedar are of fine size, but are said to be inferior in strength and durability to those of the south. The fir is the most abundant of the mountain trees, and of this and the Douglas spruce there are specimens of immense size. I have measured some of the latter, perfectly sound and symmetrical, which were ten feet in diameter. This is not quite so large as the "Big Trees," but it is "big" enough. The only deciduous trees which grow on the low lands, large enough to be called trees, are the willows and silverleaf poplar, and these are hardly of sufficient size to serve any practical purpose.
    The climate of this extensive district is dry and bracing. It is not too cold for wheat and some root crops down in the prairies, but in the open country, near the summit, water froze an eighth of an inch where we were camped the 13th and 14th of August last. Here, however, there is splendid grazing at the very season when it is most wanted. The climate is certainly salubrious, for we all slept on rock mattresses and gravel beds, upholstered with the stars and trees, and not one of the party ever suffered an ague chill or rheumatic twinge, or any of those throat roughnesses which come to dwellers in houses below the level of the pure mountain air.
    No white man has been here in the winter, but the indications are that the snows are heavy and the cold severe--more so than at higher elevations east of the Sierra Nevada. Mr. Grubb, who has improved a claim in T38S, R3E, near what is called "Dead Indian" prairie, and the only person who has built a house in the district, says that he found ten inches of snow when he came in, the 1st of April, and that there were then drifts on level land two to three feet in depth; but it went off rapidly, and by the last of the month had entirely disappeared, except among the hills.
    The spring rains continue through the month of May, after which there are only occasional showers, when the fall rains commence. They do not, however, suffer from drought, owing to the abundance of pure springs which aid the streams in carrying out the complete system of irrigation which nature has arranged here.
    The natural grapes are abundant and of fine quality. They more closely resemble the cultivated grapes than any of the natural growth I have observed, either in the Western prairies or in the valleys of California or Utah. But the species are not so numerous as in the valleys east of the Sierra Nevada. I have found 13 species of meadow grass, among which the most noticeable, perhaps, is a variety of timothy, which differs from the cultivated variety only in having the head thicker and shorter. I met also 3 species of clover, 3 species of peas and a species of beans. One of these, known as the "mountain bean," is a thrifty succulent vine and bears pretty abundantly a bean of good size. A man who had planted it told me that the size is much increased by cultivation. A proportion of the plants here which furnish food for stock are not among those classed as "forage plants," and to any having time and facilities it would be an interesting and useful investigation to determine them and test their relative value.
    In the region of country of which this district forms a part, there is probably more game than anywhere on the continent. This is accounted for by the fact that on account of the distance from the center of their operations and the hostility of the Indians, the Hudson's Bay Co. never hunted or trapped here, and the Indians themselves were not supplied with firearms, so that the game has not been frightened away, and of beaver especially there is probably more in Southern Oregon than in all the rest of the continent together. Grouse and pheasants constitute the chief of the feathered game, but the larger animals are actually the most numerous. Not a day passes without our meeting plenty of deer, and they have been hunted so little that they stand to be shot with revolvers. Elk are also very numerous; we have met them only in companies of ten or a dozen, but parties stopping here say it is no uncommon thing to see bands of two or three hundred, and I have seen the ground where they passed along torn up as much as a thousand acting ordinarily would have done.
    We have seen several of the common black bear, though we came in actual conflict with but one, which we failed to bag. Considering, however, that we were without firearms and ammunition, I think he will have good cause to remember the day as one of blood and violence. Of the grizzly, we have seen only the "sign," and according to the freshness of his tracks, ours might generally be seen diverging at an angle of greater or less radius. We did not come prepared to encounter the demons of the forest, as the result of our bear fight would indicate. It was not Gunter's chain the poet meant when he said, "The tiger's cub I'll bind with a chain;" and whatever assistance the tripod might render in a desperate extremity, the best service the magnetic needle could give would be to show us our way from the field of battle. But anyone, whether settler or adventurer, bringing his armament along, need not fear for an abundance of sport and tough "bar meat." Those, also, who love the sound of wolves' voices will be regaled mightily with delicious music.
    The scenery does not present the features of grandeur and sublimity such as are furnished by the Alps and the Andes. The mind is not possessed by those sublime emotions which enchain it in the valley of Yosemite, or when viewing Shasta Butte and those mighty monuments of creation in Northern Oregon. But the lover of Nature will find that which constitutes the most essential element of picturesque beauty--variety. I have never passed through any country where the scenes succeeded each other with such rapidity--almost, it would seem, by magic power, and quite with magic effect. There is nowhere great breadth of view except from the summits overlooking the valleys which flank the Cascades on each side. But turn from these and descend among the hills to find the characteristic features of the place. You enter little prairies, surrounded by open woods, which extend themselves sometimes beyond the margin far into the unruffled surface, as if they deemed it was a lake in which they could view their graceful forms. The time has doubtless been when the speckled trout glanced here in the clear waters, and the swan "pruned his ruffled wing," but now that mirror is changed to a carpet of grass and flowers, whose beauty is enhanced by the presence of the forest which encircles and indents it.
    Leaving the prairie, a few steps take you through the open forest, and you climb a steep and rocky hill, forcing your way through dense and almost impenetrable woods, where the gloomy beauty is forgotten in the labor of progress, and you are ready to sink in despair; but a ray of light appears, a few plunges are made, and you emerge upon a lawn which an English nobleman, with unbounded means at his command, with connoisseurs to suggest, engineers to plan and gardeners to execute, might emulate in vain--for nowhere, under the guidance of art, have I seen Nature luxuriate as she does in the nooks and glens of these mountains. Fir and spruces, seventy or eighty feet in height, rise singly, and in groups of three or four, from the plush-like lawn so densely covered with their evergreen foliage as wholly to veil the trunk, from the far-reaching spire down to where the broad branches rest on the thick grass.
    From these you can pass by grassy glades to other, and still other such sylvan scenes, or plunge at once through the walls of verdure, where the yellow-leafed cedar is interwoven with the dark Douglas spruce and the silver fir, and again force your way up the steep ascent, through the thick trees and tangled shrubs, by the springs that trickle over the rocks--assured that very soon you will again emerge in open woods, or prairie, or glen, or lawn, or some scene that will give pleasure to the eye and excite emotions of love, to the Giver of all Beauty, in the heart.      E.