To the Editor of the Tribune:
    Supposing that some information concerning this remote and almost unheard-of portion of our Pacific Territories may not be uninteresting to your readers, I have ventured, presuming upon the favor extended to my last communication, and address you again.
    The Umpqua Valley is now filling up with settlers at a most unprecedented rate. The first settlement by whites south of the waters of the Willamette (except a single trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, established in 1836) was made in the fall of 1847, by Capt. Levi Scott and his two sons, who laid the foundation of our present flourishing settlement on Elk River, a tributary of the Umpqua. Voluntarily depriving themselves of the advantages of what little civilization there existed west of the Rocky Mountains, they remained alone in their self-imposed banishment until late in the fall of 1848, when another settler (Mr. Robert Cowan) was added to the list of pioneers of Umpqua. The discovery of the golden treasures of our southern neighbor about this time checked the settlement of this beautiful valley, and no further additions were made to the number of settlers until the next summer, when two or three more families came over from the Willamette.
    Capt. Scott, with that spirit of enterprise which has ever been a prominent trait of his character, spent the winter of 1849 and '50 in exploring the country west of the settlement, with a view of finding a practicable land route to connect with the navigable part of the Umpqua River, and having succeeded in his object, early in the spring of 1850 he went to the mouth of the Columbia for the purpose of calling the attention of the officers of the U.S. Surveying Squadron to the importance of the Umpqua, and to induce them if possible to attempt the entrance. He had an interview while there with Capt. McArthur, the officer in charge of the government schooner Ewing, and entered into an agreement with him to explore the harbor, for which service he (Scott) was to pay the sum of $1,000. It appears to me a highly culpable act on the part of an officer of the U.S. government to exact or receive money for the performance of a service included in his duty as an officer. Capt. McArthur, however, failed to perform his part of the contract, thereby saving Capt. Scott the expense.
    In August, while Capt. Scott, with two or three others, was encamped at the mouth of the river awaiting the arrival of the Ewing, the schr. Saml. Roberts appeared off the bar, and after a delay of a few hours entered the river in safety. The Samuel Roberts was in charge of a company of explorers who had left San Francisco with the intention of exploring the mouth of the Klamath. Having failed in their object of finding that river, and being unwilling to return emptyhanded to San Francisco, they had pushed on and had finally reached the Umpqua. The schooner immediately proceeded up the river to the head of navigation (about twenty miles from the ocean) without difficulty. The company selected a location for a city at the mouth of the river which they named Umpqua City, and another at the end of navigation to which they gave the name of Scottsburg, in honor of Capt. Scott. After a delay of a few days they returned to San Francisco, and the report they gave of the river and country induced a considerable number of persons to leave for the Umpqua. Several vessels loaded with passengers have since arrived, and our population, which last spring did not exceed twenty-five souls, now numbers between four and five hundred, and is rapidly increasing.
    The Umpqua Valley now offers great inducements to emigrants. It is considered by good judges to be one of the richest and most fertile valleys in Oregon, and an opportunity is now offered (by the late act of Congress) to all of securing a home free of cost, in a beautiful region of country, convenient to the seaboard, and in a climate unsurpassed in point of mildness and salubrity by any in the world. There are many thousands in your crowded cities of the East struggling with poverty and living in wretchedness, who might here secure a handsome competence, and become--what they never can while they remain where they are--their own masters. The multitudes who are constantly fleeing from tyranny, misrule and oppression in Europe, and leading a life of beggary and perhaps of crime on the Atlantic shores, would here find an asylum where they might live in honest independence, and provide for their own support in the decline of life.
    We have much reason to complain of the gross irregularity of the mails on the Pacific. Letters to and from the States are frequently three or four months on the way, and often miscarry altogether. More than this, we are compelled to pay four times the amount of postage paid by any other territory. For this there might have been some excuse when the Pacific mail routes were first established in the great expense and comparatively small amount of mailable matter. But this excuse can hold good no longer. Our mails would much more than pay their expenses if the postage was cut down to the uniform rate of ten cents. Utah, Minnesota and New Mexico fall far short of this, and are a burden to the government. Where then is the justice of compelling us to pay forty cents for the transportation of a letter which does not cost the department more than five and exacting from the other territories only ten cents for what costs perhaps fifteen. I trust that the matter will be looked into and remedied by Congress at an early day.
    The news of the passage of the Land Bill by Congress was hailed by the most extravagant demonstrations of joy throughout the Territory. The exertions of our delegate, Mr. Thurston, in its behalf, will in the eyes of his constituents counterbalance many of his evil deeds. The bill has, however, in my opinion some objectionable features. The reservation of the "Oregon City claim" for educational purposes can be regarded in no other light than as the act of the most gross injustice to the claimant, Dr. Jno. McLoughlin. The claim was taken up and occupied by Dr. McLoughlin (who was a British subject) as early as 1842, when the country was under the provisions of the treaty of Great Britain, in the joint occupancy of the two countries, and when the number of American citizens in the Territory was by far less than the number of British. As soon as the proper officer was appointed for Oregon, he signified his intention of becoming an American citizen, having already withdrawn from the Hudson Bay Company, and has since in all points complied with the laws of both the provisional and Territorial governments. He has expended a large sum of money in the erection of bills and in making other improvements, and now all his land and improvements are to be taken from him. Any other British subject that has complied with the law in all its points, as he has done, is confirmed in his claim, and why should not he be?
    It is to be recognized that no provision has been made in this bill for widows and orphans, or those that have become such on the road and after their arrival in the country. There are a great many of this class in the Territory and of all others are the ones who most need the donation. Yet they are the only ones who are excluded from participating in the benefits.
    I consider the amount of land given as too large. We have seen heretofore the evil effects of the large amount of land held by each individual in Oregon, and I had hoped before the passage of the Land Bill that a quarter or at most a half section would be the extent of the donation. Granting, as it does, to each married man 640 acres, and to each single man half the amount, its effect is to prevent the country from settling up closely. A small population is scattered over a large extent of country, and we are, in a measure, compelled to forgo the benefits to be derived from schools, libraries &c. I am aware that the majority of the inhabitants of the Territory are vastly better satisfied with the donation of a section than they would have been with a less amount, but I think that its effect on the country at large will be injurious in the end.
    We have a military force stationed here at an expense to the government, of who knows how many hundred dollars a day, which has done, and is doing, absolutely nothing save the establishment of a single military post at the Dalles of the Columbia, where one is but very little needed. The Indians in that quarter (the Cayuses and the Nez Perces) have recently exhibited every evidence of a friendly disposition toward the whites, having delivered up to justice their principal chiefs, the murderers of the late Dr. Whitman and family. A small force is employed in garrisoning that post, and the remainder of the regiment is stationed at Vancouver, where they are of no more use than they would be in New York City. On our southern frontier, where we are daily expecting the commencement of hostilities on the part of the Indians, we are left entirely to our own resources. Col. Loring (the commandant) is aware of the state of things out here, having traveled as far south as the Klamath River last spring in pursuit of some deserters, the bones of some of whom he saw bleaching on the mountains. He has been repeatedly requested to send a force out here, but has uniformly refused, assigning as a reason that the desertion of the troops would be inevitable. There is, without doubt, some plausibility in the excuse, but if they are unable to take the first step toward accomplishing what they were sent here for--to protect us--why are they kept in service at all?
    It will, in my opinion, be found necessary to adopt some radically different plan of military organization from that now followed, in order effectually to protect our own frontier, as well as that of our neighbor, California. I have heard the idea advanced of organizing volunteer companies to serve a short period--say six months, or at most one year--to choose their own officers and to receive a bounty of land at the expiration of their term of service. This plan appears to me to be the only feasible one in the existing state of things, and I think that if it were adopted, and a few hundred men kept in the field for one year, we should have after[wards] no fear of Indian depredations. The savages of this country are not as warlike as those on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, and a small force will be sufficient to quell them effectually. The tribes south of the waters of the Willamette are divided into small bands who live in distinct communities, speak in many instances different languages, and each band is always under the control of its own chief. They recognize no chief whose authority extends over the whole nation. In point of intellect they are as near the brute creation as any animal that wears the human form. They have no property (save a few horses stolen from travelers) and seem to have very little desire to acquire any. They live upon fish, acorns and roots, kill little or no game, and are, take them all in all, as low in the scale of creation as any beings in existence. It will be found an unimportant matter to subdue them when it is properly undertaken.
    Some very rich deposits of gold are reported to have been recently discovered on our southern rivers--the South Umpqua, Rogue River and the Klamath--particularly the latter, and I fear that but little in the way of improvement will be done here until the placers are exhausted. Oregon is just beginning to recover from the shock which the gold mania has given her, and if the streams south are not as rich as represented, she will continue to rise, and at no distant day take her place as one of the states of our glorious Union, that Union which fanatics and traitors have labored in vain to destroy, and which still stands, as may it ever continue to stand--the pride of our nation and the wonder of the world.
    With respects, your most obdt. servt.,
New York Tribune, April 26, 1851, page 8


    A young gentleman, a friend and former pupil of one of the editors of this paper, has just returned from a trip to Oregon. He left San Francisco for Portland, in March last. Not finding it for his interest to remain there, he started for the Shasta mines. He traveled southward, down the valley of the Willamette, and saw the whole of that far-famed agricultural country. From the head of the Willamette he crossed over the range of hills that separates the sources of that river from those of the Umpqua, which runs in a westerly direction and empties into the Pacific. Here he came into the region of hostile Indians, and it was deemed by the mountaineers to be "careless" to camp out at night without faithful sentinels on duty. Their little party consisted of seven men and two boys. In a letter to the editor, this individual gives the following description of his
    "At midnight I was called up from a sound nap, and for the first time became sentinel, pacing back and forth from tent to tent, and from one squad of horses to another, with a rifle on my shoulder. The night was clear and cool, and everything seemed quiet, save the howling of wild beasts in the forests nearby. Our camp fire was still blazing, but my station was in the dark. I thought the fire would feel very comfortable, but I knew I should be too good a mark for an Indian to crawl up and shoot at if I passed in its light, and as a matter of safety I concluded to put up with cold fingers and toes."
    From here, the party crossed another ridge of mountains and entered the valley of the Rogue River. Here the utmost caution was necessary, as the Indians had fallen upon small parties of travelers in that neighborhood only a few days before.
    However, they were not molested, and pursued their way along valleys and over hills, fording streams and climbing steeps, till they dropped down into the valley of the Klamath.
    They first after their arrival, nearly worn out with fatigue and exposure, made trial of the Shasta mines, of which they had heard the most glowing accounts in Oregon! But, alas! who can learn how much credit to give stories till he has been taught by experience? Day after day, after working hard in the hot sun, they came back to their tents with not enough to pay expenses.
    Says the letter--"Four of us were in company, and the first week we managed by hard work to get one dollar and a half! And, at this rate, we were not 'earning our salt'--which was two dollars a pound, and fresh meat without it was hard living! In about a fortnight we became satisfied that our 'pile' was there, and we left for Scott's Bar. But there was no promise of success sufficiently certain to induce us to stay, and we determined to seek our fortune no longer in that savage and inhospitable region. Though within perhaps fifty miles of the settlements on Humboldt Bay, the traveling to reach them was across a country so difficult to pass, and so dangerous withal, that we preferred to journey all the way northward to Portland again than to attempt to reach home by way of Humboldt.
    "It will take many letters much longer than this to give you much idea of the life we lived, of the country we passed through, of the fatiguing marches, Indian fights, etc.--for the journey, for a small party, is like running the gantlet through an Indian country, where the fiercest tribes are in open hostility to all white men. Still, there is an excitement about it, which those who are accustomed to it from early life enjoy more than all the comforts of home.
    "I have conversed with old mountaineers who would say that they never expected to enjoy themselves so well again as when they moved from one hunting ground to another, with no shelter but a rude tent, and no food but that which they could procure with the rifle." Although now settled in life on farms, and in houses that would satisfy an eastern nabob, they look back on these exciting scenes with the highest pleasure.
    "At first, sleeping on the ground seems hard; but soon such silly notions are gotten rid of, and a soft plank to spread a blanket on is all that is required to sleep 'comfortably'."
    The writer of this letter kept a journal during his tour, in which he noted the appearance of the country (many parts of which are extremely beautiful, and may become highly productive), the manner of repelling the attacks of hostile Indians, the fatigues and dangers incurred in passing through this region, the aspect of Willamette Valley, the progress of agriculture, the state of society, condition of morals, etc., etc.
    From this journal we shall take occasion to make extracts in future numbers.
The Pacific, San Francisco, August 1, 1851, page 3


    Saturday, April 26th.--Today we have passed through some of the most delightful country I have ever seen--small plains, then gently rising hills, covered with grass and  flowers, and occasionally a grove of oaks, the ground beneath their shade also covered with grass, resembling a park in the older states. The air, too, was so pure and bracing we scarcely suffered from the heat of the sun. The water was pure and sweet, such as I never saw running in rivulets in any other country. Sometimes I would regret that my brothers could not be there, and then I should feel contented to settle down for life. At noon we stopped with a company of five or six who had left the mines eight or ten days before. Their animals were the most woeful-looking creatures I ever saw. Instead of feeding, they stretched themselves on the ground at full length; some of them could hardly be driven from their packs when taken off their backs. They would cast an imploring look to their masters, as if they expected some relief from their suffering condition, but they only received harsh blows. Such is often the condition of animals on these long and fatiguing journeys. The bones of many a faithful horse will testify to this. We stopped about a mile distant from the ferry of the North Umpqua, and pitched our tents in an oak grove on a small eminence, and prepared to spend the Sabbath, taking that rest which we and our horses so much needed. Never did Saturday night come more desired than now.
    Sunday, April 27th.--Sunday is, in truth, a day of rest to us. We are within the sound of no church bell, but yet there is a quietness about the day which is sweet to the weary traveler. A sacred feeling takes possession of the soul, although far away from the sanctuary. My pocket Testament is a good companion today. A large drove of horses, just through from California, stopped close by us. They, too, make it a time of rest the remainder of the day.
    Monday, April 28th.--This morning we ferried the North Umpqua. Here we gave twenty-five cents per pound for flour. The country we have passed today is hilly, and some of it mountainous, but the valleys are fertile, and the climate seems warmer than in the Willamette Valley. We came to camp on the bank of the South Umpqua, which is here a clear and rapid stream, tumbling over a rocky bed. Soon after supper, two deserters from the U.S. Army came along. They were tired and hungry, and had no provisions with them. We gave them something to eat and a chance to sleep at our fire. They told of ill treatment from their officers, and were determined to get clear of it. They were very grateful for a little help in their time of need.
    Thursday, April 29th.--We got our breakfast and were on the way soon after sunrise. Before noon we had crossed the South Umpqua. We unpacked our horses, and H. went in the canoe with the baggage, while I forded the river on William's back. The Indians here look different from those on the Columbia River, but the ferryman, who lives here alone, knows them so well that he is not afraid of them. A short distance from this ferry we forded Cow Creek. The current was so strong I came near being carried down the stream. We passed through a beautiful valley and soon camped at the mouth of the Canyon, a sort of pass over the range of mountains which divide the waters of the Umpqua from those of the Rogue. Here were many little companies waiting for other parties to join them before going into the Indian country. After crossing this range of mountains there is no safety except for strong parties, and then keep a good lookout.
    Wednesday, April 30th.--All hands started into the canyon this morning. Soon after entering, we commenced crossing the creek, up which the road led us, and it seemed to me we went through it fifty times, up to our knees in water, and before we reached the highest part of the ridge the road followed up directly in the bed of the stream, which was solid rock: But traveling in a foot or two of water must not be minded when going to the mines. One thing was favorable, the place was densely covered with trees, and the heat did not trouble us. The scene was wild beyond anything I ever saw. In many places the mountainsides rose almost perpendicular to a great height. Sometimes we would see a place where the fire had raged through large tracts, leaving the dry trunks of the trees to tell what the timber might once have been. Many times it was difficult mud holes, where we might not find the bottom short of going two or three feet perpendicular. This was what our horses heartily despised. The water they did not care so much about, but mud was a sore affliction to them. 
    A little past noon we emerged from the forest on the south side of the mountains. The sight of grass was grateful to us as well as the horses. We went a few miles on, and stopped for the night in a romantic little valley where our horses had abundance of good things. Our little company of four was now ahead of the rest, and we prepared to look out for Indians in the night. Our horses were tied to stakes close to our tent, and one of us was on duty as sentinel during the night. This gave us two hours apiece. We had no watch in our party and were obliged to judge as near as we could by the moon and stars. We managed in this way better than I expected we could.
    Thursday, May 1st.--We kept a careful lookout with rifle and pistols loaded, and morning safely came again. This forenoon I shot a large eagle with a white head. He was the largest bird of the kind I ever saw. During the day we overtook a party of five, and at night we camped with them a few rods from the timber, that the Indians might not get too near us under cover of the trees.
    Friday, May 2nd.--At noon we had crossed the ferry of the Rogue; the ferriage was high, but we could not ford it. We paid two dollars and a half for two of us and the horse. We had come on rapidly, and as the sun came down hot, we stopped an hour or two to enjoy the shade of the thick pines just over the river. Our course now led us some twenty or thirty miles up the Rogue before leaving it. We came about ten miles and encamped on its bank. This place was considered dangerous camping ground, but we kept a good lookout and all things went off well. Today I shot another grouse; they were always welcome guests in our camp. 
    Saturday, May 3rd.--The valley on this side of the river is narrow; the hills on the right rising up steep and high. A wolf came near the road this morning, but was too cunning to give us a chance to shoot at him. We crossed a dry prairie where there was no good water for four or five miles. Table Rock was in full view today; the sides of it rise perpendicular to a great height, and the top seems level as a house floor. Snow-capped mountains now began to show themselves in the south, and we could perceptibly feel their effects upon the air. It seemed cool and bracing, even in midday, when the sun was shining without a cloud to obstruct its rays. At noon we took a long siesta. Our rapid forenoon's march made rest sweet. Such a healthy weariness as one feels while living in this way is soon remedied by a sound nap. We had not come many miles in the afternoon before we came to a good camping ground, and we stopped and prepared once more to spend the Sabbath. Here was plenty of good grass and clear water, with wood enough to cook our food. These three essentials are always taken into account by an old voyageur when looking for a place to pass the night. Sometimes we were obliged to go much farther in the afternoon than we wished to in search of these requisites; at another time we might stop many miles short of a day's work. 
    Monday, May 5th.--Today we crossed the Siskiyou Mountains. The ascent was gradual. On the summit we had a view of the country many miles around. In descending we found steep paths, but as it was downhill we could not complain, so we kept our footing. The country most all around presented a barren, rugged appearance; a few small patches looked fertile, but most of which looked unfit for cultivation. In the road we found a human skull in a good state of preservation--some poor fellow came to his death by violent means. During the day we had left our whole company except the two men whom we always kept with. There being only four of us, and the possibility of a fight with the Indians before morning, I confess I could not help feeling a little sad, but this was no time to be downcast--we expected danger. The weather has been fine. At night we stopped beside a rivulet where we were obliged to go half a mile to get tent poles. The grass, too, was light and poor.
    Tuesday, May 6th.--We are within one or two days march of the Shasta mines. About noon we crossed the Klamath. It is a wide and rapid river, although we are a long way off from its mouth. Our packs we got taken across in a canoe, while we rode the horses through. On the south side we stopped to eat a little bread and cheese.
The Pacific, San Francisco, September 19, 1851, page 1


  The next installment begins nearly a month later, with the writer returning north.


    Tuesday, June 3.--At the firing of the signal gun this morning, we sprung up and began to prepare for breakfast. H. took our pail and cup and went to the spring near by, to get water for breakfast. He had not filled the pail when a bullet whizzed by his chin so close as to make it smart. He looked up and saw in the bushes one or two rods from him a half-naked savage, muttering curses, he supposed because he had not made sure of his victim. H. set out for the camp on the run. As he passed another bunch of bushes, he was fired upon again. I think the last gun was not a rod from him, but the ball missed him. Others had set out to get water, but they all took to their heels and ran back to camp. I was in the tent when the firing began. I then supposed some of the boys were firing for sport, until I heard one of the Oregonians shout: Your guns, boys, Indians! I seized my pistol, which had been carefully loaded the night before, and ran out of the tent to see what was going on. At a glance, I saw we had work enough to do for awhile. The Indians were coming on from various directions, hooting and yelling like so many demons. Our horses had just been turned loose to graze, and they all broke into a stampede. It was with considerable difficulty they were headed and got back to the camp. We started then and went to fighting. About half had kept them at bay, while the rest had been securing the horses. Some of the best marksmen followed the Indians into the wood, but were soon obliged to come back. We struck our tent and packed our horse to be ready for a start any time. I then took the rifle and went to work with it. I engaged three or four Indians on the right. Some of their balls came very near me, and many so near as to make me dodge. Once I thought I was lost. A ball struck the ground; I thought it was in the direct line between them and me. The next instant I took a step or two to see if I was hurt. Was thankful to find myself yet whole. The balls and arrows were flying all around us.
    One fellow, with a blood-red suit on, was shot at many times. He seemed to be a leader, and was very daring. Many of our party were anxious to see him fall. I shot at him once, but was too far off to hit him. Another was fixed out with large feathers on his head. He was very impudent, but coming a little too close to our front column, a rifle ball brought him down, and he was carried off the field. I was expecting every moment to see some of our men and horses fall. I could not conceive how so many bullets could be fired at us and do so little execution. We were on lower ground than the Indians, and I suppose this saved us from the effect of most of the shots. One of our men was wounded with an arrow, but not dangerously. Three horses and a mule were separated from the rest, and the Indians took them. off, One of their packs was worth over a thousand dollars. The animals were packed, and after driving them back, we started on without confusion in close column, with picked men in front and rear. We had been detained by them about four hours. We had left the field to them, but our business was not fighting Indians. We were too much encumbered with packs for that. Our object was to get along on our journey. Soon after we got started, we met a party going to the mines; among them were some of the men who had been obliged to run, leaving their provisions behind. They too had been fired at while getting water at the spring. One had two bullets through his coat and another in his heel. They had joined a large company and now were going through. We pushed on rapidly to the ferry on Rogue River. Some twenty-five men were stopping here. They had the chief's squaw and some other Indians shut up as prisoners. Those they held as sort of hostages against an attack on the ferry. We came on a few miles and halted where the water was very bad. No stream was running; all we could get was by dipping little at a time out of horse tracks. This was the first time in my life I had been brought to this Generally our water was good as we could wish for. This place was chosen on account of its being safer from  Indian attacks. Nothing was said tonight about the foolishness of keeping strict watch on guard.
    Wednesday, June 4.--It was amusing to see with what caution the men got their water for breakfast. They took their rifles with ther coffee pots and kept their eyes wide open. Today we came on rapidly and camped within a few miles of the canyon. A fine horse was accidentally shot dead this forenoon. We met a party bound for the mines--salutations must be exchanged and the news sought for. As one of our men was passing the crowd with his rifle slung across his horse, a mule crowded past him and lifted the cock of the gun with his bridle just enough to snap the cap. The rifle was heavily loaded, and the charge entered the neck on the horse on the other side of him, killing him instantly. In the afternoon, we passed the grave of another young man who had been murdered by the Indians. At our camping ground tonight, we found a company of thirty or forty men, with a number of large wagons loaded with goods bound to the mines. They were well armed, and were just the men to go through such country.
    Thursday, June 5.--We got off early this morning, and came through the canyon before stopping to dinner. We had a fine pick of strawberries before we entered the canyon. Such strawberries I never saw grow wild before. I was much fatigued when we had got through the canyon. We passed the South Umpqua and camped where the grass was as high as our horses' backs, and of a very fine quality. It was so sweet and fine, the horses would begin at the top and eat it down to the bottom where it was thickly filled in with a kind of wild clover. I have seen the prairies of Illinois and Missouri, but never saw two acres of wild grass in either of those states which I consider worth so much for stock as one of many acres I have seen in Oregon. The condition of the cattle speaks for the quality of the grass. Taking the stock together through the country, they are superior to any I have seen East or West. Between the North and South Umpqua, there is much fine farming land, and it is being claimed by pioneers very fast this year. Even in the few weeks that elapsed since I had first passed through it, I could see a great change. Many new log houses had been put up, and others were building. The first thing a settler thinks about is the log house; then he fences in a small patch of ground for potatoes and wheat. Hogs will thrive with very little care. In the Willamette Valley, especially, stock is to be found on a large scale. Some of the farmers have seventy-five or a hundred hogs, one or two dozen horses, and perhaps fifty or one hundred neat cattle. Butter and eggs are plenty and of the best quality. I think Oregon must soon become celebrated for its butter and cheese. If I can always have such butter as I obtained there, I will look no farther. Between the two Umpquas, sometimes two houses might be found within a mile of each other, perhaps within half a mile, but not often. If within a mile of each other, they considered the place thickly settled. One thing I noticed, that among the genuine Oregonians I heard less profane language than among the same number of men for a long time. They did not seem to look upon it as so ennobling to swear as some men of less brains and less of everything that makes the man, whom I have seen in California and many other states. They are men accustomed to danger, but they do not feel the necessity of showing their courage by making the air blue around them by emitting a volley of oaths.
The Pacific, San Francisco, September 26, 1851, page 1


    NEW MAP.--We have received from Mr. Nathan Scholfield, civil engineer, a lithographic map of Southern Oregon and Northern California, compiled from the best authorities and from personal observations and explorations. It also embraces a corrected chart of the coast between San Francisco and the Columbia River. The map is published by Marvin & Hitchcock. Mr. S. does not pretend to perfect accuracy in all the details, but presents it as an approximate map, correct in all its main features. We subjoin a communication from the author relative to the result of his explorations, knowing that everything which relates to the Pacific Coast is of interest to our readers. He differs in his opinions respecting certain localities from others who have made explorations and laid the results before the public:
    Gentlemen:--Accompanying this I send you a map of Southern Oregon and Northern California, composing a portion of the country lying between 40 and 44 degrees north latitude, which has till recently been but very little known; all previous maps of this portion being very erroneous and not to be depended on. Having spent considerable time in surveying and exploring this, as well other portions embraced in this map, I am enabled to present the public with an approximate map, without pretending to perfect accuracy in all its detail, yet in all its main features it may be relied on as correct. One year since it was not known where the Trinity River entered the ocean, or whether it was tributary to some other river. Parties of miners endeavored to have it done; but on account of the numerous falls and rapids and the precipitancy of its banks, it was not easily effected; others attempted by cruising along the coast to find its entrance. and ascend it from its mouth; but this had hardly been accomplished when a party with whom I acted set out to explore the Klamath River and valley. And for that purpose, with the map of Fremont, Wilkes, and several others, we sailed for a point on the coast in latitude 42 deg. 22 min., where, according to these maps, the Klamath was made to enter the ocean. Here we found a river, but not such an one as we were led to expect; and after exploring it we ascertained that this was not the Klamath, but the Teutonis or Rogue's River which, by all our authorities, was made a tributary of the Klamath. We ascertained that the Klamath passed south, where it was joined by the Trinity, and then pursued its course to the ocean. Having satisfied ourselves of the general worthlessness of this river or any in its vicinity, as a channel of communication with the interior, on account of the numerous rapids and high precipitous banks, running even into mountains, we left it in possession of the barbarous savages who infest it, and bent our sails for the Umpqua River. Here, contrary to our expectations, we found an excellent harbor, spacious and well protected, with sufficient depth of water for vessels of large class, although in the language of Commander Wilkes, of the United States Exploring Expedition, we were led to suppose "the Umpqua afforded no harbor for seagoing vessels, and that there was but nine feet water on the bar." But we found eighteen feet on the bar at extreme low water, the same as at Columbia River, and a fine river, navigable for thirty miles to the head of tide water, and opening into a fine agricultural country in the interior. After thoroughly exploring this river, and tracing its meanderings as well as its several tributaries, and seeing the former maps were, in important points, very defective and erroneous, I deemed it expedient that a new one should be constructed, representing the main features of the country. I therefore offer this map to the public as the best representation of the country, till such time as the government surveys are completed. In addition to my own surveys, I have consulted in its construction the best maps extant, and the explorations and travels of scientific persons and miners, from which sources I have derived much valuable information. And lastly I have availed myself of the results of the late United States Coast Survey, by which I am enabled to give a corrected chart of the coast from San Francisco Bay to the Columbia River.
    Yours, respectfully,    N. Scholfield.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, June 13, 1851, page 2


    MR. BUSH, SIR:--Beside the expiring camp fire of Uncle Billy, the undersigned sits quietly upon chips while engaged in the act of penning the memorable scenes through which he passed during his journey through this portion of the heritage. His debut into this country has been recorded with very few of the remarkable escapes--from accidents, grizzlys' jaws--rattlesnakes, &c., which attend the nervous and the timid. He lost his appetite--often did the sun at midday wink at his anxiety for his "fodder"--and that too in a land flowing richly with temporal blessings. But all has passed and forgetfulness is creeping upon him.
    The fact that Umpqua excels in fertility is so well known, and has been published so often, that it is unnecessary to make mention of it again; but a word of the condition of things may not be amiss. Our county is organized--the machinery is up, and soon it will start with great power. We need internal improvements very much, and it is expected that the new machinery will accomplish every desired attainment. The undersigned trust that the people do not expect too much.
    The roads leading to Scottsburg (which, as yet, are trails) must be made into something which will afford aid and comfort to both man and horse.
    Time cannot be spared to dwell upon their condition--sufficient to say that the undersigned has long since refrained from conversing with those who have traveled over them, because their varied descriptions of the roads were universally prefaced with violent oaths--and horrid imprecations.
    Elkton, which at present has but a potential existence, is named as the site for a county town. It is on the main Umpqua, opposite Fort Umpqua. From this point to the (and including the) sand spit at the mouth of the river, claims are taken. Those east of Scottsburg teem with luxuriant grass--those west are overhung with vivid speculative theories respecting the future. The former will harvest an enduring reputation in wapatos and stock, while the latter will eat them up. From the mouth of the river up to Winchester, claims are being improved. Quite all are taken; twelve months since, but two or three were taken. Scottsburg, or Myrtle City, is at the head of tide water; vessels drawing seven feet of water can ascend to that point--those of deeper tonnage cannot ascend farther than ten miles from the mouth, where they will be obliged to discharge; within that space there are many new towns, beautifully pictured on paper showing rival advantages, and abundant reasons why one point is far more preferable than the other for that purpose; all of which, however, possess merit. At no distant day a discriminating public will determine the extent of the merit of each.
    The entrance of the river is considered no more dangerous than that of the Columbia River. Those who know pronounce it perfectly safe and a good harbor. There are two ferries on the Umpqua within three miles of each other--and connect a road from Winchester to Scottsburg. A railroad can be made to connect those important points.
    The claims along the road, which for excellence as stock ranges or for agricultural purposes have not betters anywhere, to my knowledge. When the undersigned passed through Green Valley (a part of the road will run through this valley) the grass was quite over his horse's back. This valley for richness is all that a person can desire--an attempt to describe it only seems to tease the fullness of an indescribable experience. It must be seen to be well appreciated.
    Winchester is located on both sides of Umpqua River--about five miles above the forks--the town proper lies on the southern border of the river, and is a portion of land eminently qualified for a town. It is level and thinly timbered--lying at the head of an immense valley, which for natural beauty few if any surpass. The claim of Gen. Lane adjoins it on the south. The city plot has been laid in lots, and is fast improving as a mart. There are but few claims near Winchester which are not taken--all of them in south Umpqua in a few months will smile upon a lord and master--who no doubt in return will reflect the same in a broad grin. Upon the highest peak, near this point, the undersigned waded for deer, through grass waist high, from which he saw below one vast prairie, which Col. Loring had reserved for a military post; but which he abandoned because it is contiguous to the mines. There are "good diggings" within twenty miles of Winchester--yes, within the town limits, gold has been found. The main road to the canon passes through this place, at which there is a good ferry. Explorations are being made for a road east of the canon by a portion of Major Kearny's command--under the guidance of Jesse Applegate, Esq. Levi Scott, Esq., is also with them. The result of which will be laid before you, when it is made known here. The army have passed the canon, and the party exploring were, from last accounts, near Table Rock on Rogue River.
    No better evidence can be given of the prolific tendency of this country than to mention the fact that during the before-mentioned ride through it, the undersigned found that three good mothers had presented to (he sincerely hopes) their deserving husbands, three babies each; in the aggregate nine. He was told that they were doing well. Notwithstanding his own great diffidence--in an unguarded moment and in the presence of several--a hearty "God bless each and every one of them," was forced from him. It is unnecessary perhaps to remark that no time was lost by the neighbors in adding to the imperfect preparation which had been made for a smaller number.
    The genius of the country is an item of some considerable moment. Among the many useful inventions of one of the "oldest inhabitants," two only were found which can be mentioned this time. One a "submarine battery"*--used for the purpose of bringing to the surface salmon and the "lesser fry," and which works to a charm; the mu-luc chuck [Elk River] roars with pride in its possession. The particulars respecting it will be laid before the people at an early day. The other is a machine (or as I am forced to term it "a case independent") for making butter. It has a cylinder large enough to hold a barrel full of the "raw material"--and works much upon the principle of the machinery of the Lot Whitcomb. It is most assuredly of the high pressure class. It must be gratifying to the ladies to learn that it is to be patented exclusively for the ladies of Oregon, and is designed to supersede the piano, seraphine, &c. If the ladies devote too much time and attention to it, they will find it rather anti-cosmetic--quite as much so as the piano.
    Gen. Lane passed here last week en route to the mines. During his absence from the mines, one of his Indian miners has been murdered, and others driven off. The unfortunate Indian was shot by--it is supposed Oregon men (after being frightened so that he was speechless), simply because he would not speak. There are several reports of the matter in circulation--all of which agree that it was an unprovoked attack on the Indian.
    Gov. Gaines arrived here on Sunday last. He is engaged in raising men for the purpose of visiting the chief of the hostile Indians. He will leave during this week.--The army have passed Rogue River.--Several companies are organized for the purpose of giving battle to the Indians. As yet, no battle of much importance has been fought.
Oregon Statesman, Oregon City, July 4, 1851, page 2  *This most likely refers to explosives.