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Jackson
County 1849 LETTER FROM OREGON.
Oregon Territory, Oregon City, May 4th, 1849.
My Dear Friend.--I
have at length arrived at the seat of the provisional government, and
entered on the duties of my office--these for the present are trifling,
but the absence of the governor, who has taken a trip up the country,
has prevented me from making any acquaintance with the territory beyond
this place. To this point it has so frequently been described, that I
can add but little. The difficulty of ingress and egress at the mouth
of the Columbia is unquestionably much exaggerated. As we came into the river, two vessels were passing out--and
all under full sail, the same wind serving admirably. The stream as far
as the mouth of the Willamette is frequently broken by low islands and
sand banks, but nothing to obstruct navigation--the banks are generally
high, frequently precipices of basaltic rock of several hundred feet in
height--the Coast and Cascade ranges of mountains full in view, and the
whole background on either side clothed with dense forests of pine and
fir. The peaks of Mount Hood and St. Helens visible for the most of the
distance, covered with a brilliant robe of snow breaking the uniform
mountain ranges. The banks of the Willamette are generally high and
steep as far as this place, with a few exceptions, where improvements
are already made. Here the stream seems to have broken its way through
an immense pile of basaltic rock, the bare sides of which, on the east,
are upwards of 50 feet high--at the foot of which on a small flat, from
2 to 300 yards wide, the village of Oregon is located. This is below
the falls, which is 30 or 40 feet, and a perfect little Niagara in
miniature, with its Goat Island of bare rocks dividing it. The water
power is immense, and can be extended along the river to an
incalculable extent. Three saw, and one grist, mills are now in
operation.Improvement, however, of all kind, is at a stand. The village looks as if struck with magic in the midst of its progress--like the city of the Arabic tale, where all was turned to stone--unfinished houses and structures in every stage of progress--empty stores, dwellings and workshops--every sound of industry silenced. The golden mania has beckoned all the active population to the gold mines of California, and they have rushed thither, leaving a few who are making ready for their departure also--the occasional sound of the mallet made in repairing of boats, and the tramp of a few horses destined to convey the adventurers to the Eldorado are almost the only sounds of active life. The country is, it is said, in a condition equally deplorable, farm houses, utensils, all abandoned; fences and outhouses rapidly falling to decay from neglect--fields uncultivated, or crops run to waste, with no hand left to reap that which had been sown--is the present picture of Oregon. If this continues, as why should it not, Bryant's lines of poetry will be sad prose, "the Oregon rolls his continuous waves and hears no sound, save his own dashings." Prices here are about equal to those of San Francisco, and the necessaries of life are becoming scarce. Such is the effect of this gold, that the country will soon be, and even now is, like the deserted village where wealth accumulates, and men decay; gold, however, is not a country's wealth, how muchsoever it may be that of individuals. The population by the census just made--American, foreign and absentees, as far as they could be ascertained, is 9,083, of these the voters or males over 21 number 2,523. Of the latter it is supposed that there will not remain for the election of the delegates and members of the council, in June next, more than say 700 at most. I have seen no game beyond innumerable flights of swan, geese, and ducks, along the Columbia. The swans are magnificent, their plumage white as the mountain snow, and their soft trumpet note musical and plaintive enough to have originated the fable of the sweet melody of the dying swan. Deer and bear abound everywhere, though but little hunted, and moose are found among the mountains. I killed a fine grouse yesterday, weighing three pounds; these birds have a bluish plumage, touched with brown, and on the belly near the tail flecked with white, similar to our speckled poultry--above the eye there is a yellow or orange curve of skin, and the skin of the neck is corrugated, and of the same color. They perch close to the stem--high up in the lofty pine and fir trees--and are hardly discoverable; and but for their note, which is likened to that of the owl, would pass unobserved—the note is a very piano Hoo hoo hoo. Salmon have not begun to run, but very large salmon trout are already taken by the Indians with a spear. The two papers here have been discontinued, and papers from the States do not reach us. Send me all the papers you can lay hands on, and receive the gratitude of a suffering community. Your friend, K.P.
Spirit of the Times, August 25, 1849, page 317In the Umpqua, Rogues and Klamath valleys are found an abundance of elk, deer, antelope, geese and ducks. The deer of this country have been represented by some as small and inferior. Such is not the fact. The meat of the deer of Oregon is as tender and as delicious as the deer of any other portion of the United States. The meat of the black-tailed deer of this country is much superior to the meat of the white-tailed deer of New York, Pennsylvania or the western states. *
* *
A choice white
plum grows in the Umpqua Valley, upon a tree, or rather shrub, so small
that their growing and ripened fruit bends them to the ground.
*
* *
Benjamin Cleaver, "Oregon," Alton Telegraph &
Democratic Review, Alton, Illinois, September 7, 1849,
page 1. Quoted from the
Oregon Spectator.Umpqua and Rogue Valleys.
The Umpqua
River is about 250 miles in length, and takes its rise in the Cascade
Mountains; the tide sets up the river about 75 miles, and
within
16 miles of Fort Umpqua. A short distance above Fort Umpqua a
broken ridge (through which the river, aided probably by
convulsions of the earth, has forced its way) stretches entirely across
the valley, dividing it into upper and lower. The lower valley contains
some good tillable land; the upper valley is more than half as large as
the Willamette Valley. Rogue River is also a large river, and combined
with the upper Umpqua their valleys are larger than that of the
Willamette, and equally or more desirable, in point of climate,
richness of soil and beauty of locality and scenery. Like many other of
the rich valleys of Oregon, the upper Umpqua Valley shows marked
evidence of having once been a vast lake. As yet, but one claim has
been taken in the Umpqua Valley, and none has been taken in the Rogue
Valley. Game is very plenty, wild fruits abundant, and the soil rich
and deep in these valleys, and they are only from one to two degrees of
latitude removed from the upper gold mines of California.
The land route from the settlements in Oregon to California, and the Southern Route from the United States to Oregon, pass through these valleys. To settle these valleys securely and advantageously, a settlement should be made in the Umpqua Valley of twenty or thirty families, and in the Rogue Valley of fifty or sixty families, in each case provided with machinery for the erection of a flouring and saw mill. Such settlements would rapidly increase to large and flourishing communities. No portion of Oregon presents a better opportunity for the selection of desirable homes than these valleys. Their climate is mild and salubrious; their grasses abundant and nutritious; their soil easily cultivated and capable of producing all the necessaries and many of the luxuries of life, and probably they are better adapted to the successful cultivation of fruit than any other portion of Oregon--either north or south. In the neighborhood of these valleys, the Cascade Mountains recede from the ocean, allowing the valleys to penetrate much farther into the interior, and receive more of the wash of the mountains. A large delicious white plum, and excellent grapes, grow spontaneous in these valleys. Agriculture and stock growing will probably be neglected in California. If, therefore, persons were desirous to enter into stock growing for the market which the gold mines of that country must afford, these valleys being at the door of that market are very desirable locations. If persons are inclined to engage in agriculture, these sections of the country are in the immediate neighborhood of gold that will be freely paid for the necessities of life. If men desire to enter into mining, they can pass from the bosom of their families in these valleys into the California mines, and back at will. If gold is discovered in workable quantities in Oregon, it will be in her southern, eastern or middle portions, and in either case residents of the Umpqua and Rogue valleys will have the advantage of those of the Willamette Valley. The Klamath Valley, and south of these valleys, is but little known even here. The Klamath River is large, and it is reasonable to suppose that its valley contains considerable good land. The following is an extract of a private letter from Oregon City, describing the effects observable at that place from the operations in California: "Gold dust is current here for goods at $16 per oz., and for cash, or coined money, at $13, at which much might be made if coin could be had. A mint is being put in operation, not by the government, but by a company of private individuals, to make pieces of a certain weight of unalloyed gold, and which, it is supposed, will pass at their true value. From my own experience during a recent visit to the mines, and from what I hear on all sides, it appears to me that every Oregon citizen who retains his strength and health ought to make a competence, especially if gold keeps its standard price with us, which, however, is doubted by many--so great is the amount being raised. At present, about two-thirds of the male population of Oregon have left, or are leaving, for the mines, and all improvements, and even farming, are at a standstill. The Governor, General Lane, has arrived, and also the government officers, with a small body of troops; but there is scarcely anyone to be governed, and it will be very difficult to get a qualified legislature. There have been small quantities of gold found in our valley of Willamette, and people are sanguine that it may be in abundance in the mountains between here and California. At the failing of the waters, I shall make one of a party to test the fact." The Mining Journal, Railway and Commercial Gazette, London, October 20, 1849, page 505 Last revised August 12, 2025 |
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