My Journal Through Oregon, by Freeman Smith
Bessie Church
13505 S.E. River Road
Milwaukie, Oregon 97222
   
[Owner original 1976]
   

Friday, May 30, A.D. 1850 1852:
    [May 30 fell on a Friday in 1851. May 30, 1850 was a Thursday; in 1852 a Sunday. This and the June 27-28 entries below prove that these events took place in 1851.]
    This day I left Oregon City, on the east bank of the Willamette River, bound for the Klamath mines (which became Yreka, California), in company with William A. Stinger, Marvin Kimball and Lewis Leggette.
    Our outfit consists of an ox team and wagon with the necessary implements for mining, et cetera. We took with us our summer provisions and intend to use our team in the mines for drawing auriferous earth from the dry diggins to the nearest water suitable for washing with a long tom (trough).
    Left the city about 11 o'clock, a.m., and was soon joined by S. D. Pomeroy and company similarly rigged and bound for the same point. Traveled eight miles over a rolling country, in some places heavily and others sparsely timbered; and came to the Molalla River, which we were compelled to ford. The current of the river was very strong and beat the team downstream almost beyond its depth, and had it not been for the extraordinary exertions of the party, it must have drawn under a drift and totally lost.
    The water was very cold, coming as it does from the snowy mountains of the Cascade Range. Camped for the night in a small prairie near a farm house and put our teams in an enclosure for the night. Thought to get supped at the farm house, but the lady of the house had the ague, so we had to batch under a tree.
    The day, which was dark and cloudy, closed in rainy. The country through which we traveled today is chiefly an elevated tableland from Oregon City to the Molalla, pitching at the upper part into the Molalla and timbered as before mentioned with a thick undergrowth of brushwood and fern. Soil light, distance today 12 miles.
May 31:
    Slept last night in a barn. Arose early this morning, breakfasted, named our camp Poverty Bend and rolled out five miles to very rough road through timber, brush and mud holes. Took us across Pudding River, which we crossed on a bridge built on a drift[wood] raft. Passed a camp meeting. The congregation were singing a hymn. The singing sounded more like civilization and Christianization than anything I have heard in this country.
    We now entered French Prairie, a succession of timber and plains with rather short grass and much brushwood, considerably cut up with sloughs and mud holes.
    Let our cattle graze at noon. During the most of the day we had the Cascade Mountains in view. Sometimes through the interstices between the groves and sometimes from a slight swell and extensive section of the blue ridges with the lofty peaks, Mountains Washington, Hood and St. Helens off to our left and far behind as they rear in the distant haze their snowy heads forever.
    In the afternoon the coast mountains were in full view with the Yamhill country on the west of the Willamette lying at the foot of the mountains like ponderous steps to some stupendous parapet on the confines of the great unknown. On the whole, a most romantic scenery. Weather cloudy in the morning but clear and pleasant, with the road good this afternoon. Camped in the prairie near a hazel thicket; distance 20 miles.
    Just after camping we were not a little amused at a race between three young ladies and three young gents who came dashing by on horseback under whip and spur, the ladies riding with their native grace and manifesting by their ringing laugh the zest with which they enjoyed the sport.
    The prairies here very much resembles Iowa and Illinois.
June 1:
    Found our teams on the prairie about a mile from camp. Started from camp about half-past six. Traveled four miles over an undulating prairie with here and there a farm and came to a strip of timber. Met during the morning a number of half-breed women mounted Indian style with from one to three little quadroons strung on the horses' rumps and necks, going to mass, there being a church about four miles to our right. This part of the country is settled considerably with French and half-breeds.
    Passed through the timber into a small prairie thickly settled and well improved and exceedingly fertile. Passed through another grove, crossed a creek and camped one mile from the town of Salem about 11 o'clock, a.m.; distance about ten miles.
    The country for two days is generally nearly level prairie and timber alternating. The timber is chiefly fir and balm of Gilead, the soil in some places exceedingly fertile, in others it seems cold, wet and sour.
June 2:
    Hitched up and moved on to Salem, where we tarried two or three hours till the polls were opened, it being election day, and voted for delegates for Congress. The opposing candidates were General (Joseph) Lane and Doctor (William K.) Willson, both Democrats. Voted for Lane. Bought some provisions and rolled out about 11 a.m. Traveled away over a high rolling country, termed the Waldo Hills, timbered with scattering oak of scrubby growth and covered with a luxuriant growth of the most splendid grass. Nooned about eight miles from Salem.
    Afternoon traveled on over a country much the same but growing rather rougher, with here and there a farm till 4 o'clock when we passed over a high hill, from the summit of which we had one of the most beautiful landscapes in Oregon. The whole range of the Cascades with their snowy peaks on the left for hundreds of miles, and the lofty range far in the distance on the right to the west. With the whole of the Willamette and Santiam valleys sweeping up, between them broken in the middle by the range of hills on which we stood. Dotted away to the south were swelling buttes, and sinking into dim invisibility in the extreme north and south, and the whole tinged with blue deepening in the distance beyond. Descended the hill and camped, good grass, wood and water abundant, weather fair; distance 12 miles. Soil splendid for grain and grazing.
    Passed over some low hills and saw on our right a large strip of country several miles in length and breadth covered with clover in full bloom. (Since learned it was camassia, a bulbous root on which hogs freely feed.) Camped on a small rippling brook escaping from the mountains on the left. Grass and wood plenty, road tolerable; distance 17 miles. Cloudy all day with considerable rain and mist at times. Cleared away at sunset, and the sun peeping through the parted clouds bade us good night.
June 5:
    Wound 'round a low bluff near the Calapooia, a small river coming out of the Cascade Mountains, ascended it on the north side of Finley's mills. Passed this forenoon some very fine trees called by some laurel, by others hawthorne. It is evergreen with a thick leaf resembling somewhat the laurel of the large kind. Some of them are two feet in diameter with a straight trunk 15 to 20 feet. It bears a red berry ripe in the forepart of winter.
    Returned to the crossing of the river, forded it and camped 1½ miles beyond and bought butter at a farm house at 37½ cents per pound. Morning cloudy, afternoon fair; distance 10 miles. Soil, timber and water good.
June 6:
    Continued down the left bank of the Calapooia a mile or two, then hove off to the left towards the main road. Passed the residence of Mr. (Henry Harmon) Spalding, one of the first missionaries in Oregon, and at present one of the Sub Indian agents. Shaped our course towards some high steep bluffs some miles ahead. Passed over some very muddy, marshy ground, then through a gap in the hills and after crossing some very bad sloughs nooned on a small stream a mile or two from the mountains.
    Afternoon traveled along the foot of the mountains crossing several small streams, deep mud holes and bad swamps having the open country on our right; the mountains beyond the valley distant 30 or 40 miles, and in view up and down the range a hundred miles or more.
    The valley is interspersed with groves and long lines of timber on the river and small streams. The soil appears to be fertile, yet I don't like that over which we traveled today on account of the swamps and marshes which, however, I think seem to hold the drainage of the mountains here. Perhaps it forms into streams a little way out in the valley, but it ends abruptly and leaves the land high and dry.
    Saw during the day the skin of a grizzly bear that had been killed a few days before. It was thought to be two years old and weighed 500 pounds. Camped near a farm house and bought some milk, an article scarce along here. Distance today 20 miles; weather fair and pretty warm.
June 7:
    Left camp at 7 o'clock. Our route still lay along the foot of the mountain, crossing occasionally a low spur of the mountain with loose and scattering rocks here and there, and streams and sloughs between. The valley opposite seems perfectly level and somewhat swampy. Covered with grass and dotted over with small groves of oak and fir, and in some places balm of Gilead.
    Ferried the east fork of the Willamette, and six miles brought us to the middle fork. Between the forks we fell in the pine timber, the first of any note if I rightly remember that I have seen in Oregon. The land in the forks at this place is mostly prairie.
    The valley appears to divide a few miles below here and the main arm to bear away to the west and south. The east fork is a handsome stream said to be navigable some miles above this point; the water is as clear as crystal and very cold. The middle fork is much the same though not so large and more rapid. Grass good; distance 14 miles.
June 8:
    Remained in camp and repaired our wagons. We are four in number. Crossed the river in the evening and put our cattle up in the prairie. Weather fair during the day but became overcast in the evening, threatening rain.
June 9:
    Traveled up the river, having it on the left and the mountains on the right. Came into a valley of low rolling hills bound in with the timbered mountains on the right in a circle, like a great amphitheater. Country covered with scattering oaks and excellent grass. Traveled up a branch of the river ten or 12 miles, crossed two steep hills and camped in the bottom beyond.
    The country is a valley at first about ten miles widening as we advance into a bottom. Skirted the low hills drawing to a point in the evening; grass, water and timber in abundance. Weather cloudy and rainy all day. Distance 20 miles.
June 10:
    Rained all night and till 10 this morning; had a bad night of it. Met a number of persons from the mines. Some told us favorable news, others unfavorable. Camped at the foot of the Calapooia Mountains and built a brush house to shelter us from the rain, which had not ceased. Distance five miles; road sliding and slippery. Grass good, timber abundant.
June 11:
    Rained all night. Held a council this morning and decided to cross the mountains today. At 9 o'clock crossed the small creek at the foot of the mountains, which we named the Rubicon, and began the ascent. For the first half mile we didn't double the teams, but found it necessary at all the steepest places from that point. Nooned 7½ miles from the place of starting just after crossing one of the worst hollows imaginable.
    Reached the summit in about a mile further, in which distance by cutting a new road we avoided a half mile of the worst mud. The road here takes a dividing ridge and follows it eight miles, winding and turning among the trees and logs, up hill and down, the axles drawing on the mud nearly all the way; the rain falling continually. At 6 o'clock we came to a prairie on the side of the mountain with excellent grass.
     Descended the hill about half way and camped on the lower part, it being too steep without preparation. One of the wagons was attempted to be let down by a rope snubbing around a stake, taking off all the cattle but one large yoke. No sooner had the wagon gone over the brow of the hill than the stake pulled up, and away went the wagon, cattle and all, swift as a horse could run.
    Fortunately, the ground not being very rough, the cattle kept their feet and slid without moving for about 400 feet on the wet grass and muddy hillside till they came to a more gentle slope. No damage was done except tumbling the load about a little. It looked frightful.
    During the afternoon a wagon and cart fell behind, the cart broke down, consequently they didn't get into camp. Camped under a wide spreading fir and built a huge fire of fir limbs to dry ourselves by. Still rainy.
June 12:
    Cut trees and chained behind the wagons and descended the hill in safety. The wagon behind sent in for help. Sent two men and four horses. Came in about 4 o'clock. Camped in the creek bottom. Cleared off during the day. Evening beautiful.
June 13:
    Found the cattle three miles from camp, down the small stream on which we camped. The valley of the stream is not over a quarter mile in width but very fertile and covered with a luxurious growth of clover and seed grass. Followed down the creek, crossing it several times. Crossed a steep hill and came to the farm of Mr. Scott in the Umpqua Valley.
    The valley is not level (except in a few places) but a rolling country covered with good grass and scattering oak, fir and pine. Numerous streams break out of the hills and form beautiful rivulets. The soil is a yellowish clay, some places reddish, others black, and in a few spots I observed a peculiar purple shade. It produces splendid wheat and other grains, and on the low ground, excellent vegetables. Camped on a small creek. Distance 18 miles.
June 14:
    The country today was pretty much the same as yesterday, rolling hills covered with good grass and stout oak, with here and there a lofty pine rearing its head high above the surrounding trees, giving the country an air of enchantment indescribable. The country here becomes more open, the hills lower and valleys larger. Reached the south Calapooia River and nooned.
    Raised our wagon beds and forded. The river was full; it seems to be a wet summer. Passed through the gap in the low hills into an extensive valley of splendid land, apparently the best quality for wheat and other grain grass and water good. Camped on a small creek in the prairie. Distance ten miles.
June 15:
    Went three miles below camp for the cattle before breakfast and soured my temper, and then sweetened it by telling the boys belonging to the other wagon that after this, they hunt their cattle by themselves. Reached North Umpqua and ferried. There is one house here and a town laid out to be called Winchester, rather a pleasant place.
    The river heads in the mountains to the east and empties into the ocean about 50 or 60 miles from here. It is a large stream but too rapid and full of rocks to be navigable. Reached the South Umpqua about 4 o'clock and camped on a beautiful stream called (now 1855, the site of a beautiful village of the same name), Deer Creek. Country today same as yesterday, rolling hills and gentle slopes, with timber resembling orchards, with grass beneath stretching away like extensive lawns. The scenery very romantic. Distance today, ten miles.
June 16:
    Country today becomes rougher, the hills higher and sharper; the valleys in some places dwindle into nothing leaving the road winding on the hillside. Rain in the morning, fair in the afternoon. Camped on the river (South Umpqua) between two high hills. Distance 18 miles.
June 17:
    Continued up the river, passed over some very rocky road. Crossed a sliding hill and entered the beautiful valley of Myrtle Creek. Country similar to that about Deer Creek. Camped about five miles further on in the prettiest little valley I ever saw for the size of it. It is about five miles in length by two in breadth. The river runs with a smooth unruffled surface right through the center of it. On each side is a thick growth of oak trees free from underbrush.
    The soil is excellent and watered with small brooks putting down from the hills. On the north side it slopes away from the hills covered with good grass and scattering timber. On the south a high hill rises abruptly covered with grass. Altogether a romantic spot. Now in possession of the Indians! Camped two miles from the ford to wait till the river falls. Distance seven miles.
June 18:
    Made up a party to prospect Cow Creek beyond the Umpqua. Started with 14 others (our party being of about seven wagons and 30 men). Crossed the river in a canoe at the ferry; left the road on our left and proceeded up Cow Creek Valley to the canyon; a deep gorge where the creek breaks through the mountain facing perpendicular cliffs of conglomerate rock on both sides several hundred feet high. Went a mile and a half up the canyon prospecting [several words cut off typescript] gold but not enough to pay.
June 19:
    Started at 9, crossed the South Umpqua running to the right, and crossed Cow Creek two miles below the old crossing, saving thereby four miles of travel. Ford rough; left Cow Creek Valley and turned left over some low hills to the mouth of Pass Creek canyon, a deep pass in the Umpqua Mountains which the road passes.
    Cow Creek is a pretty little river clear as crystal rising south of the Umpqua Mountains and running westward. It crosses our course, then breaks through the Umpqua Mountains, empties into the Umpqua River in a fine little valley six or eight miles in length. The country, for a mile or two, is rolling and pleasant, but beyond that all is mountains, mountains, MOUNTAINS! Road good, weather fair; distance ten miles.
June 20:
    Left camp 25 minutes past six and in half a mile entered a canyon. For the first four miles the road is tolerable, there being room between the foot of the mountain and the creek for the road between the bends, at which it invariably crossed. Crossed that creek about 50 times in the four miles. The mountains rise at an angle of 75 degrees on both sides covered with heavy fir and cedar timber.
    We now began to have some very bad roads. A wheel of one of the wagons gave way and was replaced by one that fortunately lay by the roadside. Entered the rocky part of the canyon following the bed of the roaring torrent. We went for about two miles of rocks and logs up steep falls and through deep pools of water with perpendicular cliffs on both sides.
    Met a number of men returning from the mines--mostly disappointed. The narrowness of the way retarded both them and us. Left the creek and climbed the mountainside with a part of the team when, with night overtaking us, we were compelled to camp with part of the team in the hollow camp two miles short of the summit in a forest of dead firs cross-fallen in all directions. No grass; distance eight miles. Stood guard.
June 21:
    Crossed the summit and wallowed down a deep and tremendously muddy hollow and camped about 2 o'clock in a small valley, with lofty mountains covered with heavy timber in all directions hemming us in.
    Was overtaken by General Lane en route to the mines, who informed us that he had met an express to the governor which informed him that a fight had taken place between 28 mounted riflemen under Major Philip Kearny and 300 Indians in Rogue River under the Chiefs Joe and Sam in which Captain James Stuart and 25 Indians were killed. Weather fair and pleasant; distance six miles.
June 22:
    Left camp at 25 minutes after 5. Soon came to Cow Creek; passed  down a few miles and crossed. Crossed some mountains with some returning miners and camped on a small half-dry brook. Grass rather poor; distance 18 miles. The country is mountainous covered with heavy timber.
June 23:
    Left camp early. Met some families immigrating to Oregon from California. Crossed Grave Creek, so called on account of the burial of a young lady here some years since by some immigrants from the States. Wound around and on up a long high hill or mountain. Came in sight of the mountains beyond Rogue River. Descended a gradual slope into a valley of rather parched appearance, through a forest of rather splendid sugar pine, crossed a beautiful creek called "Jump-Off-Joe," taking its name from Joe McLoughlin (son of Dr. John McLoughlin), having been surrounded by Indians on the bank of the creek, and seeing no other mean of escape jumped his horse down a perpendicular bank, 20 feet in height, and escaped unhurt.
    Nooned and prospected the creek. Some found a little gold. Camped three miles beyond. Grass tolerable; weather fair. Saw today a remarkable instance of the economy of birds. The trunks of the pine trees are perforated in a thousand places with little holes from bottom to top, into each of which is tightly fitted an acorn. Distance ten miles.
June 24:
    Drove to the ferry and turned the cattle back on a small prairie to graze. The Rogue River is a fine clear stream rising in the Cascade Mountains and running westward to the ocean. The country is mountainous, covered mostly with timber, though there are some barren hills resembling gold country. The soil is gravelly, making the cattle's feet sore.
June 26:
    Ferried the river and swam the cattle and horses. Traveled at the river seven miles over narrow gravelly bottoms and came to a narrow but fertile valley and camped. The river here runs straight and rapid. Country same as last mentioned. Grass good; distance seven miles.
June 27:
    Left early and continued up the river, passed the Point of Rocks, a place noted for Indian attacks. Saw a party of U.S. mounted riflemen and volunteers on the opposite side of the river hunting a place to cross. Two of them swam their horses over to us. One of them lost his gun and came near drowning. They informed us they had had another battle with the Indians in which 20 Indians were killed and a few whites wounded slightly, making 50 Indians killed and some taken prisoners. Nooned and gave the soldiers dinner.
    Afternoon passed over a gentle rise and entered a spacious and beautiful valley about 20 miles in its greatest width and 40 miles in length. It is called the Rogue River Valley. It is bounded on the east by the Cascade Mountains and on the south by the Siskiyou Mountains. On the west by a low range between the Rogue River and Applegate Creek, a large tributary of the Rogue River heading on the south. And on the north by spurs of the Cascades.
    From the point of our first entrance into the valley Mount Pitt bore directly east about 40 miles distant running up a sharp point and covered with snow halfway down the sides. Between us a long timbered ridge shuts out from view the mountains around its base.
    On our left beyond the river stands Table Rock of most singular appearance, being a perpendicular rock several hundred feet in height standing on a sloping base, is between a quarter and a half mile in width and nearly round, almost isolated from the mountains. Near it stands an isolated mountain flat on top like Table Top.
    The valley is covered with tall grass, looking beautifully fresh as if a hoof had never crushed a single blade. Small groves, some long lines of timber and some little buttes covered with small trees nicely arranged among the various streams winding their way across the valley serve to make the landscape delightfully pleasing.
    The mountains to the east of the valley are chiefly bald and covered with good grass. On all other sides they are covered with good timber. Our course lay diagonally across the valley same as last mentioned. Grass good; distance seven miles, leaving a large portion on the right (now the site of Jacksonville) of the most splendid country.
    Camped on a pretty stream called Stuarts Creek, named after Capt. Stuart of the U.S. Mounted Riflemen, who was killed by the Indians. Grass the best I ever saw. Distance today 25 miles; the air clear and mild. Saw during the afternoon to the north some ten miles the smoke of what we took to be an Indian village burning.
June 28:
    Left camp at half past four. Passed a fine grove of pine and cedar. Four miles brought us the headquarters of the Mounted Riflemen under Major Kearny, who has been actively engaged in fighting the Indians. The camp is situated in an open pine forest with a beautiful meadow in front next to the creek with grass hip high.
    The soldiers showed us Capt. Stuart's grave, which they had taken the precaution to conceal. They had about 30 prisoners of all ages and sexes, some of whom seemed to enjoy themselves, and others to fret about their condition. I understand they are to be taken to California in a day or two.
    Nooned on a stream of clear cold water rushing down from the mountains (which we approached) on our right. Was passed again by General Lane and party, who have been fighting the Indians. Camped with him at the head of the valley and at the foot of the Siskiyou Mountains. The valley for the last ten miles has been narrowing in as we ascend the stream (Stuart's Creek) toward the mountains.
    The hills on the left are bald and covered with excellent grass. The Siskiyou Mountains are high, steep and rocky and covered with heavy timber. Distance 20 miles.

    Bancroft History, Vol. 30, V. II, p. 321--from Oregonian Dec. 30, 1854: Freeman Smith. One of claimants Indian Department paid a pro rata of 34.77 percent out of $15,000 retained from the treaty appropriation for that purpose were as follows showing who were losing business, had settled or were mining in the Rogue River Valley at this period. Among long list.
Freeman Smith Journal, Southern Oregon Historical Society Research Library MS 135


Last revised July 17, 2026