This wild scene represents a storm at midnight, lit up by flashes of lighting, and a vessel that has parted her cables, driving madly toward the rocks. The spot is two miles off Point St. George, which juts out into the ocean half way between the mouth of Klamath River and the southern line of Oregon. The schooner Paragon, fitted out by a company of private adventurers in search of Trinity River, sailed from San Francisco, March 14th, 1850, and after cruising some time along the coast, came to anchor at nightfall on the 21st, under the lee of that large rock seen in the picture. A storm from the S.E. soon came on with great violence, blowing dead ashore. The cables are snapped, and the vessel just missing the rocks through the skillful management of her helmsman, struck on a sandy beach [Crescent Beach]. Morning's light and the receding tide enabled the crew, some sixty in all, to escape in safety to the shore.
    A few days after, the U.S. surveying vessel Arabian, commanded by Lieut. Blunt, sailed along the coast on a similar errand. On seeing the upright masts of the Paragon, a boat was lowered and sent ashore, with a crew of ten men, including the officers. In attempting to land, the boat was swamped in the surf, and all but five were drowned, among them Lieuts. Bache and Browning of the Navy.
    A melancholy interest is now, and ever will be, attached to this spot by the untimely death of these brave men and gallant officers. They were buried nearby, one on the mountain side, and the others at high water mark. Wild and lonely is their burial place. No signs of human life are seen around, and no voices are heard save those of the sea and the wind as they mingle in chanting a requiem over the dead. The remains of Lieut. Bache, we learn, have since been removed to New York.
The Pacific, San Francisco, January 16, 1852, page 1  The Paragon is most likely the source of the locators of Sailors' Diggings.


    During the past score of years or more I have run across some very interesting original documents at old farmhouses and in the homes of pioneers. While in Crescent City I visited James McNulty, who showed me the original charter of Crescent City. It was dated at Sailor Diggings, on Illinois Creek, as the town of Waldo, in Josephine County, Oregon, was then called. A group of Oregon miners, who were mining at Sailor Diggings, decided to make their way to the coast and start a city at what was then called Paragon Bay. Among these miners were a number of sailors who had discovered rich ground, giving Waldo its original name of Sailor Diggings. The camp was called Sailor Diggings from 1852 to 1855, when the name was changed to Waldo and it became the first county seat of Josephine County. In the winter of 1852 the miners of Sailor Diggings organized a company and elected D. C. Lewis, whose daughter is one of the pioneer residents of Portland, secretary of the company. The ink on the old charter is somewhat faded, but I was able to make it out. It reads as follows:
    "We whose names are hereby annexed to the following constitution do hereby, for our mutual interests, form ourselves into a company for the purpose of locating and building up of a town on and near Paragon Bay on the Pacific Coast near the boundary line between the state of California and the Territory of Oregon, and we hereby agree to be governed by the following articles:
    "Article 1. This company shall be started and known as the Point St. George Exploring Company.
    "Article 2. The officers of the company shall be a president and secretary. The duty of the president shall be to superintend and regulate the general concerns of the company. He shall, in all cases, submit to the wishes of the majority of the company. A majority of the voters of the company is requisite to elect the officers, whose term of office is to continue for six months from election unless two-thirds of the members thould require a new election. In such case the secretary shall call an election. The duty of the secretary shall be to receive all moneys and pay the same over to the president and to keep a correct record of all proceedings of the company, also a correct account of the receipts and expenditures, ready for inspection at any time.
    "Article 3. By-laws may, at any time, if not inconsistent with the present constitution, be appended by a vote of the majority of the company.
    "Article 4. This constitution may be amended by consent of two-thirds of the members of the company.
    "Sailor Diggings on Illinois Creek,
        January 31, 1852.
    "Signed:  C. Mathias Smythe,
Fred Lockley, "Impressions and Observations of the Journal Man," Oregon Journal, Portland, May 3, 1927, page 12


    By Mr. Hereford, of Cram, Rogers & Co. [illegible]. Trade at Jacksonville dull; stock of goods on hand large; prices remaining about the same as at our last advices. The weather remarkably fine. Large parties out prospecting.
    The item of intelligence of particular interest is the discovery of a practical wagon road from the valley to the harbor at Paragon Bay. Several enterprising persons, among others Messrs. Steele, Cooke and Cosby, had gone to the bay from Jacksonville and Yreka to establish a trading post in conjunction with a company from San Francisco; others are preparing to follow. The harbor is reported to be safe and convenient. The distance from the new port, called Crescent City, is said to be forty miles to Sailor Diggings and seventy-five miles to Jacksonville. Profitable diggings are reported to have been found in the immediate neighborhood of the new city. If but the half of what we hear be true, a new era of commercial enterprise is just dawning upon Southern Oregon.
    CRESCENT CITY.--We find the following in the Placer Times and Transcript:
    The expedition which recently sailed to Point St. George, a locality which it is claimed will be the supply point for an extensive range of mining country, returned on the 9th inst. The company have surveyed a town, to which they have given the name of Crescent City. They have also made a survey of the harbor, and find twelve feet of water up to within 200 yards of the shore.
Oregonian, Portland, March 19, 1853, page 2


    The miners about Jacksonville have taken a stampede and flocked to Althouse Creek, about 16 or 20 miles north.
    There is at present quite an excitement here about the new port formed on the coast called Paragon Bay. Many are contemplating to visit it. If one-half of what is told be true, Paragon Bay is destined to become of great importance, as through that place will the whole of this section be supplied. The most cogent reason assigned in its favor is that it is much more easy of access than either Scottsburg or your place.
Fenelon, "Yreka Correspondence" of March 13, Shasta Courier, March 19, 1853, page 2




    FROM HUMBOLDT BAY.--By the way of Shasta, we have late news from Humboldt Bay and Eureka. A report had reached the latter place that sixteen of the eighteen men who were exploring the road from Paragon Bay to Rogue River Valley had been killed by the Indians.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, April 7, 1853, page 2


    Several families have left here during the spring for Althouse and Paragon  Bay. This bay is about one hundred miles southwest of this place, and about fifty miles from Althouse, in latitude 40 deg. 45 min. There is a good pack trail from it to both places. A vessel arrived there several days ago, and discharged her cargo, and has returned to San Francisco for another load. Some of the goods and groceries have been packed into the mines, and sold at reduced prices in the vicinity of Althouse. A pack train left Althouse and went to the bay, and returned in four days loaded with provisions for the miners. This is said to be a good landing, and a safe harbor for vessels nine months in the year, and some of the knowing ones say that a good safe harbor can easily be made out of it for vessels at any season of the year, by making a breakwater at the mouth of the bay. Doubtless large quantities of goods and groceries will be shipped to this point during the summer season, which will save a great amount of labor in transportation to the packers in this section of the country, and if it takes less labor to pack from this bay to the mines than it does from the Willamette Valley or from Scottsburg, it will necessarily reduce the price of provision in this part of the country during the coming summer.
Letter dated April 26, 1853, Oregonian, Portland, May 14, 1853, page 2


    Mr. Dryer:--Believing that the opening of every new avenue which shortens the distance whereby goods can be transported to the mines is a subject in which your readers are more or less interested, I purpose to give you an impartial description of the new harbor and the route to the same. Paragon Bay, if bay it can be called, is located about ten miles south of Smith's River, and immediately south of the peninsula known as Cape St. George, and by observation is in lat. 41 deg. 45 m., consequently is fifteen miles south of the Oregon line.
    This bay is formed by a curve in the coastline of some three or four miles in length, and is in the form of an half ellipse, the shortest diameter of which is about two miles, or in other words, the greatest distance from a straight line drawn from the headland at the north to headland south to the water's edge or shore, is about one mile. The only protection on the sea side from storms and wind is the slight defense afforded by Cape St. George, which is a low promontory rising some 15 feet above high water mark, and a reef of rocks extending some three hundred yards in a line from the head of the cape across the bay, which at high tide are mostly covered with water. Inside of this in calm weather vessels can anchor in seven fathom of water, at a distance of about a quarter of a mile from shore. The holding ground or bottom is said to be sand and rock.
    Immediately south of this cape a town side has been surveyed, which from the natural curve of the beach is named Crescent City. Stores, warehouses, &c., are being built, and if the price of lots is any criterion, it is soon to rival Portland or even Sacramento City, at least in the estimation of those interested. Had it the Willamette or Sacramento rivers, with their broad and fertile prairies, it might appear a little more plausible. But it is without a navigable river by which merchandise can be transported into the interior, while the farming land in the vicinity, although good perhaps for vegetables, is limited in quantity.
    The manner of transporting goods to the mines, or at least for forty-five miles of the distance from the coast, is now and in my opinion always will be upon pack mules. Yet some are sanguine that a good wagon road will soon be made and that at a mere nominal expense. There is yet some thousands of dollars to be expended upon the route to make it a good pack trail upon which mules can carry even an average load of 250 lbs. each. Having packed a train of mules twice over the trail myself, I can speak somewhat from experience. I am of the opinion that mules can better pack three hundred pounds each upon what is termed the Oregon trail than two hundred upon this, while the grass is more abundant upon the former and of a better quality.
    If Crescent City has any advantages over Scottsburg or the Willamette Valley as a depot for obtaining supplies, it is in the distances from the respective mining sections, and in the saving of ferry bills, which are quite a tax upon packers. The distance from Crescent City to the nearest mines is about forty-five miles--from the city to Althouse Creek about fifty-five miles--to Jacksonville one hundred and ten--to Yreka one hundred and seventy-five. In coming from the coast to this place or to Jacksonville in the summer season, there will be no ferry bill between the two places, although Smith's River is to be crossed twice; and at the time when I passed we were obliged to build rafts to cross over our packs upon and swim our mules. But both of these crossings are said to be fordable in summer time.
    Had I the time I might perhaps have given you a more detailed and comprehensive letter, but for want of which this must suffice.
Oregonian, Portland, May 14, 1853, page 2


    Business in Crescent City the past week has been comparatively dull in consequence of the decrease of the influx of pack trains--but it is hoped by the great improvement of trail, which is now pronounced by those who are good judges to be as good a pack trail as there is in California that business will be brisk again. During the week ending 7th ult. two steamers, the J. G. Hunt and U.S. Coast Surveying Steamer Gold Hunter, entered and cleared the harbor--the Gold Hunter having made a complete survey, soundings &c. A political canvass was held on Monday, 8th ult., at Crescent City, for the election of assemblyman &c. The meeting was addressed by Mr. Van Dyke, Mr. Whipple and several others.
Sacramento Daily Union, September 3, 1853, page 2


    Messrs. Editors:--A public school is now established in this place, in a spot sufficiently retired to avoid the bustle of the commercial world, and sufficiently central to be of easy access. The school-room is airy, commodious and well furnished.
    The teacher trusts that the exertions he has lately made to establish this school on a permanent basis will meet with the ready and cordial support which the importance of the case demands.
    The number of scholars now in daily attendance, and the number already promised from various parts of the adjacent country, convince him that the important item of a full school will not be lacking. He invites visits from parents and guardians. Such ought to know the character, talents and capabilities of him who holds himself forth as an instructor of youth and to whom they confide the development, intellectual and moral, of their offspring.
    He is now trying to secure a uniformity of textbooks, but with the best exertions he believes that this can only be gradually arrived at. Much depends upon the parents being willing to lay aside books "as good as new" which they have formerly procured, and buying new sets. So essential to the progress of schools is a uniformity of textbooks, that the teacher trusts parents and guardians will at once unite with him in securing this most desirable object.
    And now as the teacher has thus far done alone the work of fitting up the school-room and establishing the school, he respectfully suggests that the school commissioners of this county meet at an early date, give him their instructions and fix his salary.-- G. S. RAMSEY, Teacher.
    The Chinese immigration in California has in different parts of the state caused much indignation and in more than one locality the Celestials were, temporarily at least, ejected without much ceremony as an unwelcome encumbrance. But the Calaveras Chronicle is looking at the other side of the question, and speaking on the subject says:
    "It must be recollected that in many counties, and our own among the number, the tax paid by the Chinese is the principal revenue for the support of the county organization. Stop off that item and we will be forced into a direct tax to support our present system of government. This may appear strange, but we believe, nevertheless, it is true. Without being acquainted with the figures, we do not believe the poll, property and license taxes are sufficient to meet the heavy expenses of the county. And to take away the foreign miner's tax would compel the residents to pay a very large direct tax to liquidate the current expense."
    Now this is sensible talk. The Chinese, it is well known, are industrious and frugal, and such a population can't seriously harm a new country. Only put them in the right place. In cities their heathenish propensities and their uncleanliness cause disgust. But in the mines those objectionable traits in their character will be less apparent and their work can be made profitable to the country, to their employers and to themselves.
    We heard of some enterprising miners on the Klamath that intend engaging Chinese laborers, with a view to working extensive bars, which up to the present time have not proved remunerative enough to the miners there. They calculate to do well with them in three-dollar diggings. But for the Chinese such diggings would be left undisturbed, and the gold they contain might just as well not be there at all. The work of the Chinese would add materially to our circulation and to our trade, while at the same time the tax collected from them would patch up our county finances. Thousands of Chinese could thus be employed on the Klamath without interfering with the miners, but on the contrary aiding them and the country in the development of its resources. Here is a wide field for enterprise and an opening for the useful employment of the thousands of Chinese who flock to the golden shores of California.
Crescent City Herald, October 11, 1854, reprinted in the Del Norte Triplicate, Crescent City, March 7, 1924, page 7


    Ed. Herald:--Having occasion to leave the city for a time on business, with a view to select among other things a permanent location, I took on the 23rd inst. the wagon road back towards the Lagoon and stopped at the first farm for the purpose of examining thoroughly every part of the country surrounding your place, prior to crossing the Oregon line. As you are not particularly acquainted with the details of the farming districts, and many of your friends may profit by a guide for traveling on the short Indian trails, I will occupy your time for a few moments with a sketch of my trip by "Foot & Walker's" line.
    One of the best grazing ranches within four miles of Crescent City is now occupied by Mr. Benj. Reynolds. The house, sheltered from the storms and rough winds of winter by graceful pines, commands a view of one of the prettiest lakes in Klamath County. (All of present Del Norte County was then embraced in Klamath County--Ed.) Myriads of waterfowl sport upon its bosom, and a goodly number always grace his rough but ready board. Deer are not abundant, but still there are some in the vicinity and need only a sure eye, a steady hand and a good rifle to afford glorious sport for one fond of such excitement.
    As I did not at this time, after leaving Mr. Reynolds, pass through that part of the valley inhabited by the whites, I will give you my impression of the Smith's River Valley on a previous walk. Within three miles of Fort Dick, situated in a beautiful prairie, is a house built by Mr. Rhoda, searing the impress of home and showing the western cattle breeder to the life.
    Across the river is Mr. Crook, with the most substantial as well as one of the best-built houses in the country. His garden excels in every particular, and his tomatoes, melons, onions, cabbage, and indeed every part of his crops show that he has located on excellent soil and improved his time.
    Between this and Mr. Bradford's are three farms upon which houses have been built, only one of which has been much improved. Mr. B. has to all appearances the most buildings and has also a large farm enclosed next to the hills. In the valley are some eight more farms under cultivation. They are improved in such a manner as to ensure to their owners a handsome profit from their labors, and able to supply all the necessaries of life to that part of the country.
    The salmon fishery at the mouth of Smith's River, under the able management of "Uncle Dick," bids fair to supply the market. Some of his assistants have, however, struck for higher wages and are determined to dig, according to their ancient customs, unless he will "choho nacut nappo or wagge cheek" (give two salmons or money).
    Dr. Myers and Mr. Arnold, his partner, are proprietors of an excellent house, and their established ferry is a great acquisition to the traveling public.
    The next settlement is at "Winchuck." Alas and alackaday, when my friend and self reached that river the fates were against me. Only one canoe was there, and in comparison the bowl in which the three wise men of Gotham went to sea, was a ship. I tried the raging waters, and Indian blankets and rifle and my noble self went to the bottom, but it fortunately happened the water was only three feet deep and we escaped with our lives, rifle and all. The next essay was better, for another craft hove in sight and we crossed.
    To Chetco we sped our way through rain and mud, to find a shelter under the hospitable roof of Mr. Miller. Utterly weary, we almost feared the next twelve miles to friendly shelter, and although the king of day was gently sliding down the blue arch of heaven, we madly determined to push on.
    We hired a pack train, consisting of one "buck" for our blankets, and just at dark found ourselves on the beach. To camp and feed ourselves and weary train was but the work of a few minutes. Rolling into our blankets, we did not awake till the fierce October blasts drove sheets of misty rain on our uncovered heads.
    Reaching Whaleshead, a hearty glass of whiskey from friend Hensley made us see additional beauties in his place. A splendid elk ham hung beside his door, and a large, well-stocked garden covered the slope.
    The broad Pacific mingles his deafening bass with the trembling tenor of the creek beside the house. This is the spot for one fond of a quiet home, a pretty wife, a happy family and a sportsman's and hunter's life.
    Up, up the hills we climb for eight long miles, dreading at every summit gained to see another still before us. We reached Pistol River at 3 o'clock p.m. There the old pioneer, Jim Buford, gave us a hearty welcome and a solid supper. Here are deer--not the small herds which slyly browse [omission] building above E Street. Messrs. Heywood & Co., the gentlemanly [photographic] artists, showed us several likenesses just taken, the originals of which we recognized on the first look. They have also some very pretty views of houses and portions of the city. We would invite our readers to visit the rooms and see for themselves. The "pictures" will compare favorably with those taken by the most accomplished artists. The proprietors have also a variety of cases on hand of different size and finish so as to suit the taste of everybody. By a reference to their advertisement in another column it will be seen that they will only remain here for a few days. Those who wish to secure a good likeness will therefore do well to call early. We understand that it is their intention to visit our mining towns in the interior.
    Some evil-disposed person tarred Mr. Block's Fruit and Cigar Store on Monday night. As will be seen by an advertisement in another column, Mr. B. offers a reward of $50 for the detection and conviction of the perpetrator. Somebody must have been sadly in want of an object to vent his spleen upon. We would believe that no one laying claim to the name of a gentleman could make himself guilty of such a malicious trick, perpetrated against an unoffending citizen, among the haunts of civilization, but as though the white man's foot had never yet invaded their domain. One may count their tracks by the hundreds. In leaving there we left behind a hunter and a man.
    At Hunter's Creek Chiquzebree smiled indeed. Four of his sons, stout and able-bodied, soon made a raft and ferried us over. In addition to some calico we gave their "waggee cheek"--that jewel prized alike by Indian and white.
    I will at the first opportunity give you my impressions of this place as well as of Prattsville and Port Orford.--Yours truly, SNIKTAW. [Watkins]
    We had the pleasure of visiting the Daguerreotype rooms in Squire Lewis'.
    Although Crescent City is only 18 or 19 months old, and its outlet only mountain trails, opened since its settlement, yet it may claim the serious attention of the merchant and business men of San Francisco, who look about for future markets, outlets and customers.
    During the period of seven months just closed, from March 16 to October 22, 1854 there was discharged at this port a total of 3925 tons of merchandise, or 4000 tons in round numbers. During the same time 2286 passengers were carried to and from San Francisco.
    Thirty-nine trips in the aggregate were made by the steamers Columbia, Peytona, America, Crescent City and Fremont; and nine trips by the schooners Ortolan, Harriette, Gazelle, Alfred Adams, James Franklin and Joseph Hewitt, and the brig Zoroaster.
    Of the 4000 tons of merchandise discharged at Crescent City during the past seven months it is estimated that not more than 600 were consumed by this neighborhood and Gold Beach, leaving an amount of 3400 tons carried on muleback across the mountains at the rate of seven cents per pound, or $140 per ton, making a sum total of freight money alone of $476,000.
    On an average it requires eight mules to the ton. Computing eight times 3400 gives 27,200 mules going, and of course the same number returning, or a total of 54,000 mules as having passed over the trail in the course of seven months.
    A toll of 50 cents per mule would furnish the sum of $27,200. A wagon road would also secure to us the whole trade of Siskiyou County (Yreka) which alone will double that amount and increase it to $54,000.
    The impulse which trade in every direction would receive from such a road will fully make up for the difference in the amount of toll as received by the employment of wagons, instead of mules only.
    It will not be considered an overestimate by computing the toll, which during the same period would have been received from passengers or travelers, at $10,000, making an aggregate of $64,000 toll in seven months.
    During the past summer four fireproof brick structures and a brick dwelling house were erected in Crescent City. All the building material except lime are handy and convenient. But for the want of this article several more houses would have been built. Next summer a number of fireproof buildings will undoubtedly be contracted for. Is there really no limestone in the neighborhood? A little fortune could be made with a limestone quarry, while at the same time it would benefit the public at large to a great extent. Look about for lime!
    We note with pleasure the arrival of a fine lot of seed wheat by the steamer Columbia and destined for Smith River Valley. This is the first of a series of experiments which our farmers intend making next year in raising this staple article of consumption. They have thus far succeeded admirably in raising oats, barley, potatoes, turnips, cabbages and will undoubtedly have the same success with wheat.
    To make your farms valuable plant fruit trees. It will be but little expense at first, and the attention you bestow on them will prove to be more pleasure than trouble. In five years your farm will have increased in value at least at the rate of fifty dollars for every fruit tree on it.
Del Norte Triplicate, Crescent City, March 21, 1924, page 7


    Our townsman, H. B. Dickinson, is busy clearing up Battery Point and fencing in what will ultimately make a fine garden. The huts of the Indians have been moved back so as to make room for the road, which is intended to run clear around the Point, making it somewhat more circuitous than teamsters and packers may desire it, but it will certainly make a fine promenade.
    We are always reluctant, even seemingly, to interfere with any improvement whenever undertaken, satisfied that every individual effort directed in that way tends to the benefit of the whole community. We apprehend, however, that the improvement mentioned interferes in more than one way with vested rights closely connected with public welfare, and thus far we conceive it to be our duty to offer some remarks on the subject.
    Our state laws do not permit individuals to interfere with Indian habitations. Section 2 of "An Act for the Government and Protection of Indians" reads as follows:
    "Persons and proprietors of lands on which Indians are residing shall permit such Indians peacefully to reside on such lands, unmolested in the pursuit of their usual avocations for the maintenance of themselves and families; Provided the white person or proprietor in possession of such lands may apply to a justice of the peace in the township where the Indians reside, to set off to such Indians including the site of their village, or residence, if they so prefer it; and in no case shall such selection be made to the prejudice of such Indians, nor shall they be forced to abandon their homes or villages where they have resided for a number of years."
    When the present site of Crescent City was first surveyed in 1853 the Battery Point was left as a public common, where the Indians might continue to reside until they could be better provided for. The public commons were deeded to J. M. Peters, A. M. Rosborough, J. W. Farrington, R. Humphreys, J. K. Irving, W. Waterman, R. F. Knox, G. W. Jordan and J. B. Taylor to be held in trust for the use and benefit of the city, and from the section above quoted it would appear that it is made their duty to shield the Indians from interference with their habitations.
    It appears as a matter of record that Mr. H. B. Dickinson entered the premises on Battery Point under special permission from the first proprietors.
    We believe it is a well-settled rule of the courts in deciding upon land claims that a party entering upon premises by permission of a prior claimant cannot afterwards set up a possession claim in opposition to the first claimant. The supreme court of Oregon has in a recent decision adhered to that rule, which public morality and a decent regard for good faith will always enforce.
    In making these remarks we disclaim any ill feeling against the persons interested and were solely actuated by a desire to prevent, as much as lies in our power, future litigation, squabbles and misunderstanding. The public, once in possession of the facts bearing on the case, will decide for themselves.
    We noticed with pleasure that some enterprising citizen has materially improved the passage through Second Street, where it crosses I Street. It would not be difficult to drain that sink wholly, and at the same time causeway the street its entire length to the creek, by cutting ditches along the sidewalk and throwing the dirt into the middle of the street. Six blocks fronting on Second Street and lying between H and K streets would be more immediately benefited and an assessment of ten cents a foot would cover the expenses. Will not someone take the matter in hand? The assessment will be cheerfully paid if undertaken by an energetic and thoroughgoing man. This job once done we doubt not but the owners of lots between G and E streets will follow suit and bridge the slough, thus effectively opening Second Street to easy and free communication.
    We are permitted to make the following extracts from a letter from A. M. Rosborough, dated at Yreka, December 3, 1854, and written by a gentleman who has every opportunity of gathering correct information on the subject of wagon roads to Yreka:
    "I am well satisfied now that Crescent City, taking everything into consideration, has greatly the advantage over both the Scottsburg and Sacramento River routes, in natural advantages to supply this city and vicinity with merchandise. I have been very carefully examining into this matter. I say I am satisfied that Crescent City has natural advantages far surpassing those of either of the other routes. Capital and energy, in making good wagon roads through first on the other routes, may seem to give them the advantage, but I feel assured that, with the same amount of energy, and even a less outlay of capital on the Crescent City route, the other routes could not be considered competitors in supplying this immense market--for, in the course of one or two years, this will be the largest mining town in the whole mining region of California.
    "From here to Scottsburg it is much farther than to Crescent City, and the route to make a wagon road is much worse than to Crescent City. I have conversed with many men who have traveled up the Sacramento and Pit and McCloud River route from Red Bluff. They estimate the distance from 160 to 175 miles and all agree, with the exception of a few who are locally interested, that it will take from $200,000 to $300,000 to make a road over which a wagon with any load can pass. And then they say it will be very rough, from the immense quantity of rocks and a large number of rocky hills, or rather mountains, that it will have to pass over for sixty miles, with scarcely a sprig of grass.
    "The foregoing facts are what I gather from the best sources in my reach. Navigation from Colusa to Red Bluff stops in July or August and does not start until after this time, when it is too late to get in supplies for winter at reasonable rates. Therefore, to compete with Crescent City in the business part of the year, when the roads are in the best condition, they will have goods to haul from Colusa to Yreka, a distance of between 250 and 300 miles, besides the freight from San Francisco to Colusa, which will be at least as much as freight by steamer to Crescent City, say $20 per ton."
Crescent City Herald, December 13, 1854, reprinted in the Del Norte Triplicate, Crescent City, May 17, 1924, page 2


    In no portion of the state is there such difficulty of intercommunication as between the several inhabitable points and places in that district of country lying between the coast and the borders of Siskiyou County, on the east, and Trinity on the south. These almost inaccessible sections have only been reached either on mules or afoot, and over the most tortuous and dangerous trails. Of regular or irregular mail communication there has been none, and it has been impossible to transport goods through these mountain fastnesses, except at a great expense, and at immense hazard. But the wants of that territory demand more facile means of access to the various places scattered through those remote regions and we are therefore glad to see by a late number of their local paper that the long projected wagon road from Crescent City to the Illinois Valley is in a fair way of speedy completion. The board of directors having, for the sum of fifty thousand dollars, contracted for the construction of the road, it is to be commenced immediately, and entirely finished by the first of next May.
    The completion of this stupendous undertaking will open to speedy settlement, or rather to more extensive occupancy, the rich and fertile valleys skirting Rogue River, Illinois River, and other streams along the borders of Oregon.
    The citizens of Del Norte County may well congratulate themselves on the bright prospects which the completion of this road will assuredly realize for them in the way of business, increase of population, and all the comforts and conveniences of life.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, August 5, 1857, page 2


    I wrote you about two weeks ago, by mail, giving you some account of the ravages of the storm in this vicinity. (The letter referred to was not received.--Ed. Bulletin.) Since then we have had a second rise, and received news from places we had not then heard from. I have heard of no additional loss of life in this county since I wrote. The two white men and six Indians make up the total for this county. The body of a woman, too much disfigured for any possible recognition, was picked up on the beach and buried about one mile south of here, about a week ago. It came, no doubt, from the Klamath River.
    The news from the Klamath, so far as received, fully justifies our worst apprehensions, as expressed in my last. On the first rise, all the buildings at Fort Ter-Waw, twenty in number--except the three used as officers' quarters--were carried away; and on the second rise of the river those three went, as did all the improvements on the Indian reservation, except one building which is so undermined as to be useless. All the stores of every description at the Fort were lost, except the flour and the beef cattle; and nearly everything from the Indian
reservation.
    Communications are so cut off that we have not heard from any of the headwaters of the Klamath. We only judge what the devastation must have been by what we find strewing the beach near here. For eight miles, which is conveniently accessible from this place, the beach is covered to an average width of 200 yards, and to the depth of three to ten feet, with every description of material that can be found in the country--except gold. One large "marquee," or officer's tent, was
picked up a few days ago. Winter squashes "in good order," are occasionally found. Goods of all sorts, but badly damaged, are often seen. The best of timber lies on the beach, in quantities to supply the market of California for years. White cedar, sugar pine, redwood, and red and yellow fir are plenty as blackberries in summer.
    The great damage our town has suffered is in the loss of about 400 feet of the wharf. This was caused by the immense trees getting under it and entangled amongst the piles, when the heavy swell would in the end tear out one after another of the piles, till the whole went down. The outer and heaviest portion of the work
stands uninjured.
    In Smith River Valley the damage is less extensive than was at one time feared. The flood on the north side of the river, where is the most extensive settlement, did but little damage comparatively. The second rise in the river carried off all the salmon of Smith & Co.--thus making, with what I wrote you before, a complete clean sweep of everything connected with their fishery. They only saved their seine and one or two boats.
    It is also reported that the salmon fishery of McCoy & Co., at the mouth of the Chetco, is gone, with all their fish.
    The following from the Jacksonville (Oregon) Gazette will give your readers some idea of the storm in that section:
    During the week there has been a very brief period of dry or clear weather. By Friday the flow from Jackson Creek through the town had materially subsided, and the pools had quite disappeared from the valley. But Friday night the rains resumed and poured without cessation until Sunday morning. Before midnight of Saturday, Jackson Creek had broken over its banks and came sweeping in through the lower part of the town. By morning the flood reached its height. Again, as on the Sunday morning preceding, houses were surrounded, lots submerged, fences torn away, and some damage done to gardens. Down the valley as far as could be seen were streams and sheets of water. The inundation extended over a greater area than that of the week before. A slight rain fell during Sunday, but the flood gradually abated, and yesterday it had disappeared from one portion of the space it had covered, and only a small stream coursed outside of the regular channel of the creek.
    From the disasters and destruction of property caused by the storm of which we have already been informed, we fear the losses sustained in the valley and over on Applegate are very serious. The long bridge over Rogue River at Rock Point, built only about two years ago, together with the toll house on the north bank, was swept away Sunday evening. This was the finest bridge in the country. It was on the mail route northward, and had been recently purchased from R. B. Morford by a Mr. White. Until another bridge is built, the mail stages will have to cross the river at one of the two ferries below Rock Point, and it is said that both lost their boats last week, and cannot replace them soon. The saw mill and bridge at Wells's, on Applegate, were also carried off. Applegate rose six feet above the highest water mark of previous years, and was yet swelling so as to threaten the destruction of buildings, bridges, ditches, and other property. We hear from several localities of mining claims injured considerably by the flood. Throughout the low farming lands fences are swept off, winter stocks of buried vegetables washed out and carried away, and much other damage sustained. Rogue River was never before seen so high, and threatens to rise yet higher. Should it do so, the devastation will be great. All the streams are at an unprecedented height, and the loss of bridges, if nothing worse, is quite certain. Jacksonville is likely to be an isolated town, even from country communication, for a short time.
    From every point within the rather circumscribed bounds of news we get accounts of disasters and damages by the storm. The bridge over the stream near Callahan's, in Scott Valley, was destroyed and the country about there inundated. In Yreka, the flood swept the lower part of the city, carried away a bridge, and did much damage to gardens, etc. Great injury was done to the Yreka ditch, and in most of the diggings the miners suffered serious losses. About Cottonwood the roads were almost destroyed. The bridge over Shasta River was at last accounts momentarily threatened, and the rise of the Klamath caused fears for the bridge across that river. Jo. Leech drove over from Yreka on Saturday, but mired a mile or more from this place at night, and did not succeed in getting his vehicle in till Sunday morning, with a small bag of mail matter thoroughly soaked. He started back again yesterday morning, but declined to take the California mail, for fear of injury to it by wet, or of total loss. The stage north also left yesterday morning, but returned, as it was impossible to cross Rogue River. The Crescent City mail carrier had not arrived up to the hour of going to press, though due Saturday night. A report has reached here that the bridges through Umpqua had all been destroyed. It will not surprise us to hear that along the Willamette there has been a vast amount of property lost. It is quite certain, in fact, that the storm has raged with equal fury all through California as well as Oregon, and that the destruction and waste is far beyond that occasioned by the great foods of 1852 and of  1849-50.
    Almost the whole population of this section of the state are leaving, or preparing to leave, for "the northern mines." Whether it will prove more to their advantage than the Fraser River exodus did, remains to be seen. Everything is dull here, and likely to be so all winter, at least.
    The new ditch on French Hill is nearly completed, and the water will soon be let in on an extensive field that, it is believed, will pay well. The long and severe storm has delayed the completion of that work for a month.
    Our mails are over two weeks behind time, and we have to guess at the operations of Gen. McClellan and the rest.
Evening Bulletin, San Francisco, December 23, 1861, page 1


    THE FLOOD AT CRESCENT CITY AND SMITH RIVER VALLEY.--The Jacksonville Sentinel of December 14th thus refers to the effects of the late storm in the vicinity of Crescent City and Smith River:
    "Snow fell on the mountains to the depth of five feet, which went off with a warm rain; being flood tide, Smith River rose to such a height that its banks gave way and a large body of water run through the farms of Gilson and Cabel and emptied into the lagoon back of Crescent City. At that place a small stream called Elk Creek empties into the ocean, on either side of which are a number of buildings. The water from Smith River caused the lagoon to run over into Elk Creek and increase it to that extent that the buildings referred to were swept away. On Front Street, driftwood, most of which was hewn timber, supposed to have come from Humboldt and Trinidad, was piled up ten feet high; this, together with tapping the lagoon so that it could run into the ocean, which labor was performed by the Indians, the city was saved, although the water is said to have been three feet deep in the buildings on that street. The wharf sustained considerable damage; one-third of it was carried away in the middle, a large stick of timber was thrown with great force by the waters over the wharf and entered the warehouse of Dugan & Wall. The opinion prevails that the steamer Columbia is lost, as a variety of goods have floated ashore, some of which were marked "Snyder, Klamath Reservation." In the valley the loss has been far greater. A Mr. White lost his wife and two children; they had been taken from his house by the Indians in a canoe, which capsized. Smith was saved by clinging to a log, where he remained all night and was taken off by Indians. He lost his farm buildings and stock. Frank Gay, at the ferry, lost rope and windlass, but saved his boat and his house by lashing them to a rock. Gilson and Gay, with their families, were four hours on a rock which stood three feet out of the water; even this place was very insecure, as driftwood threatened to sweep them off. Gilson lost all his property. Cornelius G. White was at Gilson's house with his family when the water reached it; they went to the barn, from which they were rescued by Indians. Cabel lost his farm, but saved his family by taking them to the redwoods. The farms of Lockwood and Mrs. Benjamin were covered with water; the house of the latter was swept away. Otto, at Bradford's Ford, lost his house. Buel lost fencing and seventy-five head of cattle. Both fisheries were swept away. Mathias Smith lost farm and stock, including two hundred head of fat hogs ready for butchering; he was sick at the time, but was saved by being taken out through the roof of his house. At Fort Dick, on the lagoon, Yoman lost all of his fencing. John White lost his house, fencing, etc. Hale lost his ranch, house, barn, etc., and was taken out of the second story of his house while afloat. The Indians had to leave their camp, which was on an island at the mouth of Smith River. Hall lost his saw mill; one of his employees was on a stump twenty-four hours, and when the current subsided swam ashore. A man by the name of Humboldt, and another whose name our informant did not learn, were drowned while attempting to go from the Bald Hills to Crescent City. Taken all together, the destruction of property in Smith Valley has been fearful. All of the bridges on the Crescent City road, and two on the pack trail belonging to Gasquet, have been swept away, with the exception of the one across Sucker Creek. Lewis will rebuild his bridge immediately."
Sacramento Weekly Union, December 28, 1861, page 1


    Reached Jacksonville on Sept. 17[, 1852]. Small mining camp. Built large house for myself and engaged to build for others for $700.00. Three boys still with me. Work soon accomplished. Then engaged in other work.
    About Sept. 20, sixteen inches snow fell. Feared stock would perish. Man by name of Poole took cattle to Bear River bottom in heavy timber, came out all right. Three small provision stores. All goods used packed on animals from Portland, Oregon three hundred miles over bad road. Soon as snow fell, pack train could not travel, merchants put high tariff on goods. Salt; butter, sugar and tobacco $5.00 per lb. Flour, potatoes $1.00 lb. and other things in proportion. Soon ate up our $700.00. As soon as snow went off we went to work again. Decided that this country would not hold me longer than spring. In fall several men returned. Gave flattering account of coast. Believe man of my energy could cross mountains with wagons. Decided to try it. Several men volunteered to help me. Man with sixteen pack animals to accompany us. About March 20 loaded up and set out. First sixty miles down Applegate River and up Illinois River to junction of trail up mountains. Made without much trouble and struck camp for a time. With rifle I followed trail few miles to prospect route. Impossible for wagons to go farther. I returned to camp and reported result of investigations. Cast gloom over camp. In morning unloaded wagons, turned them bottom up, and put under them such things as we could do without. Packed freight on pack train, reserving gentlest animals for those not able to walk. Resumed journey. With difficulty reached summit and found snow six inches deep. Camped all night in pine grove. Made large log fire. Rained part of night. Had rough time. Spitting snow in morning. Situation unpleasant. As soon as light on our way down grade. Reached Smith River at 12 o'clock. River nearly bank-full here. Unpacked and turned stock loose. Grazing good. Saw first redwood timber. Some of these giants of forest measured forty feet in circumference. Large quantity of flood wood. Began building raft. Cut drift logs in 12-ft. lengths.… Rolled them to bank of river. Plenty of pack ropes so built raft of these thus: Rope wrapped around each end of a log and logs rolled into water. Ropes crossed at each end and another log rolled in. In this way until raft 20 ft. long. Other dry logs split into slabs and placed on raft crosswise under logs. River one hundred yards wide. Current smooth and moderate. Remained in camp overnight. In morning put part of freight on raft. Poled over river by seven men and unloaded. Had drifted down some in crossing so had to cordelle up to strike place where raft was built. Three men returned with raft. Balance of freight and family put on board and landed safely. Raft returned second time. Stock driven into river and forced to swim over. Those who remained boarded raft, crossed and unwound ropes. Let noble raft go down river one log at a time. Packed up again and reached coast in evening.
    On beach met 30 men. Offered us only cabin they had built and hindquarters of fine elk. Little ship Pomona had left provisions with Mr. Waterman to supply camp until return. I called on him to buy supplies. Very dear. Asked price of rice. $1.00 per lb. He asked me if I had any milk to sell. I said I had. My price $1.00 per qt. "All right," he replied. After this he had milk with his rice and we had rice with our milk. Now idle three weeks until Pomona returned bringing more men, tools and provisions. All went to work. Place laid off in town lots, called Crescent City. Ocean to south and west. Mountains to north and east. Valley level land, extended 16 miles along coast and three miles back. Shape of half moon. Very heavy timber covered nearly whole of valley.
    Began building in earnest. Cheap sawmill built to furnish lumber. I finished first house and opened it as boarding house. Other houses finished and opened in other branches of business. Pomona returned for supplies. Country thickly inhabited by Indians. Lived chiefly in villages along coast. Lived mainly on fish. Shy at first but when acquainted were quite trustworthy. In August fine prairie land [discovered] at mouth of Smith River twelve miles from city. Company wished me to join them and locate claim. Not convenient for me to leave home, but offered them use of yoke of oxen to do hauling if they would locate claim for me and build cabin on it. Offer accepted. Sixteen men went on ground, located and built cabin on each claim. In spring I went over and examined country. Pleased with future prospects, I commenced improving. My family the first that ever landed on beach, and after living here fourteen months I rented my house and moved on my claim, which we called Smith River Valley. As soon as land came into market I bought one thousand acres. When I first settled here, game plenty, elk, deer, bear, smaller animals geese and ducks by ten thousand. Handy with rifle and many a fine elk I killed within one mile of cabin. Began to improve my farm. Very productive. Prices very good. Stock doing well. Sent to San Francisco for all kinds of fruit tree seeds. Proved success. Soon had enough trees for self and neighbors. Small lot of hogs shipped to Crescent City. Five purchased by myself, four brood sows and one male for $200.00. In proper time I supplied neighbors with a start. Several families moved into valley. I saw necessity of schoolhouse. I received volunteer labor enough to build house. Soon had school started. Had Sunday school and preaching when we could get preacher.
    Fishery established at mouth of river. Everything moved on fair and prosperous till [1855] when Indian war broke out in Jackson County, Oregon. Soon spread to coast and our trouble began. Settlers became alarmed. Some moved to Crescent City. I began fort by digging trench three feet deep around house and well. Split ten-foot logs in two and stood them on end, one flat side in and one flat side out. Chamfering round sides together to be bulletproof. Also made bastion on two opposite corners so we could enter them from inside fort and from porthole look along two of outside walls from each bastion. Kept plenty of guns and ammunition. One man, my son and myself and family held fort while other families moved to city while men were engaged in war. Just before close of war five or six roughs engaged in killing all bucks they could find. Already surrounded two small villages and killed twenty or thirty inhabitants.
    One town of this character located on my land near beach. Very ancient village contained about one hundred persons. Roughs threatened this town also. Said they would kill my Indian boy who had lived with me three years. Faithful boy. My Indians became much alarmed. Many of them came to me crying for protection. Three roughs came to my house to kill my boy. Sharp words and serious threats but finally left. Indians had done no harm but were true and trustworthy. My duty to help them. Next morning at break of day I mounted my horse, armed with shotgun and pistols, started with boy to Crescent City where I left him with friend of mine. Went to city authorities and asked permission for my Indians to be put on Lighthouse Island in front of city. About fifteen acres of north half covered with scrubby timber made convenient shelter. Permission granted. I returned to Indian camp and told them to be ready at sunrise on morrow to move to island. Went to camp in morning equipped as before. They were ready. Followed beach to avoid danger. Reached city safely. If I had been caught in act by roughs it would have cost me my life as they still threatened me till peace proclaimed by General Canby [sic] about six weeks after Indians moved to island. After war they returned home. Ever remembered me for protection. Considered lives in my hands.
    Valley refilled by former occupants. Business revived. I built large barn and new house. Orchard bearing fruit. Good home. Valley very fertile. Good water and finest timber I ever saw. Felled several trees five to six feet in diameter. Sawed off 16 rail cuts each eleven feet long. Average would be 12 cuts of same length. Timber called redwood splits easiest and smoothest of any I ever worked in. Raised 65 bu. wheat to acre, same of barley, 115 bu. Chile oats and 300 bu. potatoes. When several farms got underway--home consumption overdone. Prices fell so low there was no money in farming and valley so isolated outside market could not be reached with any profit. Country mountainous and of rockiest character. Only one road from valley to interior. Road cost $1,000.00 per mile for first forty miles then less per mile to Rogue River Valley. Placed heavy tax on people. My portion $1,200.00. Road crossed copper belt. Large sums spent in search for copper ore. Search unsuccessful. I worked two summers and spent $1,500 but failure. Went to Copperopolis by way of San Francisco to examine mines there. Copper mining precarious business. I gave it up. Visited San Jose, Watsonville, Santa Cruz and several other smaller towns and Oakland and San Francisco. Had good time. Returned home after journey of 1,000 miles through populous country. Our valley looked very small to me compared to this land with broad and extensive plains. Upon mature reflection made up mind to sell out and leave valley. All daughters except one had married and moved out of country. This one lived in Crescent City. I had now lived in the country nine years, the longest I had ever remained in one place. Had served people as county supervisor for number of terms and had become acquainted with almost every man in county, besides being leading farmer. Seemed to be leaving a good home but finally sold out to Colonel Dave Buell for $20,000.00, stock and all included.
    I then gave my farewell party. Entire neighborhood invited besides friends from Crescent City. Spent twenty-four hours in one of most enjoyable and social parties of my life. Table furnished with all comforts country afforded. Plenty of new cider from our orchard, first made in county. Moved to San Francisco in 1862.
Biographical Sketches of the Life of Major Ward Bradford 1893. Typescript at Indiana State Library.


    CRESCENT CITY, DEL NORTE COUNTY, Feb. 20th.--Knowing that the Alta has an abiding interest in all that concerns the Pacific Slope, its resources and their development, and the prosperity and welfare of its inhabitants, I deemed the following communication, relative to this northwestern corner of the Golden State, would be of interest and acceptable to it and its readers:
    Crescent City is situated at the head of Crescent Bay. The form of the bay is indicated by its name, and is caused by an indenture into the main coastline, and the projection of Point St. George, a projecting barrier on the north and west, and whose outer point is distant about four miles from this place. On the east and southeasterly the mainland together with a small island called White Island (a great resort for pleasure parties) constitute a protection against winds from those directions.
    Efforts have been made, and are now being made, to secure an appropriation from the government for the construction of a breakwater, as a barrier against southerly winds, thereby making this at all seasons and all weather a perfectly safe harbor. And this is a duty devolving upon the government--not only affecting and beneficial to the shipping interests from and to this place and surrounding country, which naturally finds this its center port and only exporting outlet for all its vast resources, only now beginning to be developed. Its inexhaustible beds of chrome, gold, copper, gold, silver and other minerals. Its immense forests of redwood, fir, spruce, cedar, myrtle and sugar pine, and the production of its rich and fertile valleys. But it is also essential to the interests and safety of the whole coasting trade. It is a well-known fact that there is no safe harbor of refuge for vessels in all weathers, in case of storms or accident, from San Francisco to Puget Sound, a distance of 800 miles. It is a duty recognized by ours and by all nations as one most vital and proper for the protection of its maritime interests; but in this matter the government has been tardy and neglectful. The project has been heretofore recommended by the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, and a government survey in view of the construction of a breakwater has been made; and there the matter now rests. It will doubtless come up before the present Congress. There is a lighthouse here, off Battery Point, about half a mile from the town. This place was first settled in the spring of 1853, but its progress up to this time has been slow. Owing to its somewhat isolated position, the great resources of the surrounding country have been comparatively unknown, and consequently undeveloped. It is now, however, beginning to look up, and will doubtless in a few years become one of the most thriving and prosperous, if not the most thriving and important, place (aside from San Francisco) along the coast.
    A steam saw mill was erected here last spring, and I am informed by Mr. Johnson (secretary of the company and one of the proprietors of the large wharf at this place) that during the four months from May until September, inclusive, five million feet of lumber was shipped. Large amounts of agricultural products, chrome and other articles were also shipped, the amounts of which I have not at command at present. And her steam mill is now in the course of construction, and there is no doubt but that the erection of eight or ten more here and in the vicinity would be a profitable investment, considering the enormous and excellent supply of lumber so readily and cheaply obtained. This, however, would require capital.
    The mountains from ten to twenty miles distant from here are rich in immense bodies of chrome, which among other things is used in the manufacture of Bessemer steel. There is also copper, gold, silver and other minerals. Though the mountains have never been thoroughly prospected, enough is known of their richness to warrant the assertion that all that is requisite is the investment of capital to develop their wealth to the investor.
    In the immediate vicinity of this place gold is found mingled with the sand on the ocean beach, and not far below here are the celebrated Gold Bluff mines that created such a furor of excitement in '52-'51 [sic]. About sixty miles up the coast near Ellensburg, at the mouth of Rogue River, Curry County, Oregon, are the equally celebrated Gold Beach mines. Although these mines are not possessed of the immense wealth that they were formerly reputed to be when it was said that the sand was nearly one-half gold, still they pay when worked averaging about $3 and upward to the hand per day, and on rare occasions as high as $25 or $30. Many of the old claims are unworked and unoccupied.
    There is a coal mine (the coal it is said being of a superior quality) about being opened near this place, and it is presumed that large quantities of that article will be shipped from this point ere long.
    The soil of the valleys is very prolific; on the farms of Messrs. Laville and Darby, in Smith River Valley, over one hundred and fifty bushels of oats have been raised to the acre, and in the same valley over fifty bushels of wheat have been produced, and although these examples are rather more than the average yield, the soil when properly tilled is remarkably fruitful. The finest apples, among other fruits, are produced in large quantities.
    The principal valleys within this county are Smith River, Elk and Chetco (the latter lies principally in Oregon), and they are beautiful as well as productive. The valleys and bald hills back from them and along the coast are covered with a perennial verdure. The natural grasses are quite nutritious, and it is one of the finest stock-raising countries in the world. The climate being so mild calls for but little care on the part of the herdsman, and animals of all kinds are as fruitful as the soil is productive.
    The hills and the forests abound with a variety of game, and the rivers and brooks with the finest fish, including salmon and trout in abundance. In the vicinity of this place there are mussels, oysters, clams and other bivalves; codfish, halibut, and other saltwater fish are caught in the bay and vicinity.
    The climate is mild, genial and healthful, and the professional duties of the M.D. fraternity are very far from onerous. The panacea for physical ailments is the common food, the common property of all, the pure, fresh, invigorating air we all inhale; the pure, cool, crystal water bubbling from the hillsides, coursing, sparkling along each brook and streamlet. In summer we have the northerly trade winds, fanning us with their cooling breath from the northern ocean, and the snow-clad mountains of the interior. In winter we have the southerly trade winds, wafting to us the warmth of Polynesia's isles. The seasons round are nearly equal in temperature; one flake of snow is rarely been in winter, save on the distant mountaintops. Early potatoes and other crops are being planted at this season and before.
    The inhabitants are kind and hospitable, and are really a superior people; but their residence in this delightful country and climate has imparted to their habits an easy-going "Go day, come day, God send Sunday" sort of tendency, and the infusion of a new element, possessed of that energy and enterprise incident to a people where the acquisition of a livelihood requires the exercise of manhood's whole power and force, would be a great benefit to the country, and to those that are now here whose dormant energies would be awakened by the example. Both muscle and capital could here be exercised and invested with redounding profits and benefits to the investor.
Daily Alta California, San Francisco, March 16, 1871, page 1


    The Sentinel makes a strong point in an article under the above caption in its last issue when it says that the people of Jackson County are throwing away annually in the matter of unnecessary freighting expenses a sum equal to their taxation. This is easily demonstrable. As at present imported, the merchandise from San Francisco comes to us by the overland route over nearly two hundred and fifty miles of railroad and then has to be hauled in freight wagons about a hundred and seventy miles; by the circumlocution [sic] route it travels some seven hundred miles by water and is then about three hundred miles north of us. Of this distance it comes two hundred miles by rail and still has to be hauled over a hundred miles by wagon, making a trip of about a thousand miles. Our merchants now find it cheaper to ship by the northern route, notwithstanding the great distance, so we may compare the Crescent City route with that. By way of Crescent City freight would need to be hauled over a wagon road a little shorter than that between us and Roseburg, a road, however, which would doubtless, if properly built, be more easily traveled than the latter; from San Francisco to Crescent City is but a little over three hundred miles by water. So we should save the freightage upon the two hundred miles of railroad, never less than half a cent a pound, and the difference in ocean freightage which the saving of about four hundred miles in distance and the towage and pilotage on the Columbia river would make. Add to this the saving of the cost of handling the freight once and the slight difference in favor of the Crescent City road which teamsters will be able to make in hauling, and we may safely conclude that the people of Jackson County would save nearly twenty dollars upon every ton of freight which they ship to or from San Francisco. This saving, it must be remembered, would not fall into the hands of those only who are directly engaged in the shipping or mercantile trade; it would be shared by every individual who buys a pound of sugar or nails or leather, by everyone who takes part in the consumption or use of the merchandise brought from the outside world into our valley. What the people of this valley would save in one year is amply sufficient to meet their share of the expense of building the road. To take a simple example: Something over 200,000 pounds of wool is exported annually from Jackson County. The saving of one cent per pound upon this would amount to two thousand dollars. Let those directly interested in wool growing contribute two thousand dollars to the building of the new road, and when they ship their next year's clip of wool by the new route they will get the two thousand dollars back in the one cent per pound more which they will receive for their wool. So it will be with all who may contribute. To speak of our people collectively, they will in contributing toward the building of the new road only be paying in advance a small portion of their next year's freight bill. The road will cost them absolutely nothing but the interest for a few months on the amount of about one-fourth of their annual freight bill, and when once built it will be dropping money into their pockets every year.
    Thus, in the narrowest view of the subject, it is seen that the simplest rules of economy leave our people but one course to pursue in this matter. What would be thought of the business sagacity of a man who could save his taxes every year hereafter by simply paying them in advance for the next year if, having the means at command, he should neglect to take advantage of the extraordinary opportunity? This is the situation of our people on the Crescent City wagon road matter. Will they act upon business principles?
Ashland Tidings, November 21, 1879, page 2


    Del Norte is the musical and appropriate name bestowed upon that subdivision of California which occupies the extreme northwestern limit of the state. Although settled at a very early day, its position is so isolated and access is so difficult that its resources have been slow of development, and it remains to this day almost a terra incognita. Away from the main lines of travel and only reached by fatiguing stage trips or ocean voyage, the mere sightseer has left Del Norte out of his itinerary, and only those on business bound are willing to undergo the hardships necessary for a visit to this most interesting portion of California. The man who is not deterred by these obstacles from making a tour of Del Norte, however, will find himself amply repaid for all that he may be called upon to undergo, and will feel all the greater satisfaction because of the knowledge that he is not following the well-beaten trails left by the "globe-trotter" or "excursion fiend." He has the pleasure, too, of feasting his vision upon scenery that has not been written to death by every eyeglass-wearing tourist who owns a notebook and pencil, or photographed by the ubiquitous manipulator of the kodak in various forms of misrepresentation. There is the sensation of visiting an unexplored country in traveling through Del Norte County that is experienced in scarcely any other portion of California, and this sensation amply rewards one for the passing discomforts of rough roads and uncomfortable stage coaches. The mountain scenery is of the grandest, the vast redwood forests are traversed with a feeling of awe, while the valleys and seashore are replete with pleasing vistas and beautiful scenes.
    As already remarked, Del Norte occupies the extreme northwesterly corner of the state, and has the Pacific Ocean for the western boundary, Oregon on the north, Siskiyou on the east and Humboldt on its south. Its area is 999,000 acres, of which the greater portion is timber and mountainous lands. The area suitable to cultivation is very small and is confined to the Smith River Valley and a belt along the ocean near Crescent City known as the Elk Valley. Much of the land covered by the redwood timber is fertile and when cleared can be made productive, but the task of removing the giant stumps and partially decayed logs and still standing trunks is so onerous that small progress has as yet been made in this direction.
    The county has an ocean frontage of about thirty-five miles, with a depth inland of over forty miles. The entire area is practically a succession of mountain ranges, broken into narrow valleys, in which are many small creeks, tributary to the Smith and Klamath rivers, both of which are large streams. The last named is the second largest river in the state and enters the county from Siskiyou on the east, flowing southwesterly into Humboldt and then returning to Del Norte and entering the ocean in the southwestern corner of the county. The river has been officially declared to be navigable for a distance of sixty miles from its mouth, but its navigation is only a fiction of the law. Actually, light-draft vessels can ascend it only for a short distance, the bar at its mouth causing difficulty in entering the river. The Smith River has three forks, each of which is of considerable magnitude and affords water power that might be utilized, and doubtless someday will be.
    That portion of the Coast Range which traverses the eastern part of Del Norte is known as the Siskiyou Mountains, and reaches an altitude from 5000 to 6000 feet. Snow remains on the summit of these mountains until late in the summer, and they are rugged and precipitous in the extreme. There is considerable pine and other timber in the gulches, but it is inaccessible and, therefore, of little value at present. The mountains in the western part of the county are much lower, being only about 1000 feet in height, and are covered with a dense growth of redwood, pine, fir, cedar and spruce, which is very valuable, and from which large quantities of lumber are produced annually.
    Very early in the history of the state gold was discovered in Del Norte County, and mining has been carried on successfully ever since, mostly in placers and by hydraulicking. There being little or no agricultural land to injure along the streams, hydraulic mining has been prosecuted for years without interruption until quite recently in a single case upon one of the tributaries of the Klamath.
    Copper was discovered in this section as far back as 1860. The deposits of ore are large, but owing to the difficulty of access and lack of transportation facilities the mines have not proven highly remunerative. Chrome and other iron ore has also been discovered, and large shipments have been made. Undoubtedly the time will come when these deposits will prove valuable and permanent sources of wealth.
    The territory now comprised within the boundaries of Del Norte was originally a portion of Klamath County, but in 1856-57 the Legislature passed an act creating the county of Del Norte, and Crescent City was chosen as the seat of local government.
    The first settlement was made in this region in 1850 by a party of miners, who worked their way up the Klamath River from Trinidad as far as Happy Camp, which was the first settlement in Del Norte, though it has recently been segregated therefrom and added to Siskiyou, its location in respect to the county seat demanding this change.
    After the settlement of Happy Camp another place was built at the mouth of the Klamath River in the same year, but it was not until 1852 that Crescent City became first known. In 1850 a schooner from San Francisco visited the harbor and was wrecked, and various parties of prospectors also arrived in that and the following year, the story of the mythical lost cabin and the auriferous beach sands having been the moving cause of their expedition. An expedition from San Francisco arrived by water at Paragon Bay in 1852, and the following year the town of Crescent City was laid out for the first time. The same year a settlement was made at Smith River Valley, which is known as Smith's Corners or Del Norte, and this and Crescent City are the only places of importance in the county, now that Happy Camp has been added to Siskiyou.
    There are two methods by which the traveler can reach Del Norte County. One is by coasting steamer from San Francisco to Crescent City. This trip is said by those who are fond of sea travel to be a most enjoyable one, while those with whom saltwater does not agree are equally emphatic in expressing their distaste for such a journey. A regular line of steamers is maintained from San Francisco, and except during the season of southeast storms trips are made every few days. The only other means of access is by way of the California and Oregon Railroad to Grants Pass, Or., and thence by stage across the mountains and down Smith River to Crescent City. By this route the traveler is afforded the opportunity of studying much scenery of the most attractive description. The region traversed is wild and almost entirely unsettled, and for many possesses all the greater attractions because of that fact.
    Leaving San Francisco at 9:30 o'clock in the evening, morning finds the travelers in the upper end of the Sacramento Valley, where a halt of half an hour is made at Redding for breakfast. The forenoon is most agreeably passed while traversing the canyon of the Sacramento River, and at noon Sissons is reached, with grand old Shasta towering into the clear sky overhead, her snow-white sides and summits glittering in the sun like sheets of silver.
    Then the summit of the range is quickly passed, and the train descends into the vast plain of Siskiyou County, beyond which, at the base of the mountains, the state line is crossed and Oregon is entered. Then the Siskiyou Mountains are climbed, with many a puff and groan from the two ponderous locomotives which are needed for drawing the train up so steep a grade. Near the summit is a tunnel some 3000 feet in length, and after traversing it the mountains are found to have been crossed, and down the hill into the Rogue River Valley speeds the train. Though it is a decidedly downhill grade, still the greatest care is used in running the train. The engines are kept well under control and a slow rate of speed is maintained. There is no use of hurrying, for if the cars should by any possibility get from under control no power on earth could save them from leaving the track at one of the numerous sharp curves and being dashed to fragments with their human load in the rocky canyons. The exceeding care with which the train is handled on this grade is shown from the fact that while crossing a lofty trestle a man appears around a curve just ahead with a red flag in his hand. The air brakes are applied like a flash and the train is brought up standing with a jar that brings everyone to his feet. The cars have not moved more than a dozen feet since the flag was first sighted, yet they are now held stationary on the steep grade while inquiry is made as to the cause of the flagging. Here on this mountainside is a repetition of the famous Tehachapi Loop, only in a more wonderful manner, and in one place can be seen three tracks, one above the other, at short distances.
    No faster time is made going down this grade than was the case in climbing the mountain on the other side, but finally the comparatively level valley is reached, the engineers let out a link or two, and with accelerated speed the train hurries down toward Ashland. At this place, one of the prettiest in Oregon, a halt is made for supper, and here acquaintance is made with the fruits of the famous Rogue River Valley. Extensive orchards of peaches, prunes, apples, pears, etc., are seen on every hand. Some are young and have been planted but a year or two. Others are mature, and the limbs of the trees are bent to the ground beneath their burden of luscious, glowing fruit.
    For miles after leaving Ashland there is almost a continual succession of orchards, but finally the grain field begins to predominate, and after a while the valley narrows in and the arable land ceases. Along the bank of the beautiful Rogue River rushes the train, affording glimpses of much attractive though wild scenery, and just as the shadows of night are falling Grants Pass is reached, and that portion of the trip to Del Norte County that lies over the railroad is ended.
    A little inquiry discloses the whereabouts of the stage, by which the next 100 miles is to be traversed, and the information that it is the writer's desire to engage an immediate passage to Crescent City is received with a rather sarcastic smile, as might become the announcement of a desire on the part of a child to play with a bumblebee, or a hot stove, or some other object with whose latent powers of discomfort the youngster were evidently unacquainted. But appearances are sometimes deceptive, and staging is by no means a new thing. To one who has braved the horrors and discomforts of the Mojave and Colorado deserts in a "mud wagon," this mountain trip through Southern Oregon can have no terrors, so the ill-conceived delight of the spectators at the ordeal they imagine awaits the new arrival from the city produces no impression. The vehicle, a cross between a Concord coach and a regular mud wagon, drives up, and, mounting the seat with the driver, the lively little town is soon left behind, and about a mile out the bank of the Rogue River is reached. The bridge was washed away during the storms of last winter, and so resort is had to a primitive ferry-boat, which is propelled across the stream by the current, the vessel or scow being attached to a cable by pulleys, and one end or the other of the boat being pointed diagonally upstream in accordance with the direction in which it is desired to cross.
    The stream being passed, all vestige of settlement is quickly left behind. The road plunges at once into the forest, and soon the night becomes of inky blackness. The candles on either side of the stage barely throw a light beyond the wheelers' heads, and the team travels by instinct rather than by the guidance of the driver. The limbs of the overhanging trees whip into our faces, and the wagon, hung on thoroughbraces, sways and swings and plunges like a ship in a choppy sea. The road is none of the smoothest; the chuckholes are not seen until their presence is made known by a plunge of the forward end of the vehicle that threatens to make one take a header out among the leaders, followed immediately by a reverse shock from the rear that almost makes one's spinal column snap. So it goes, one constant succession of plunges, jerks and leaps, hour after hour. Now a stream is forded with water well above the hubs, whereat the inside passenger, who is a veritable tenderfoot all the way from the Sucker State, and is undergoing his first experience of staging on the Pacific Coast, expresses a fear lest he be given an unwelcome bath. Then a hill is climbed, and then the team plunges down a declivity, with the wagon bouncing about behind it in the most uncomfortable manner.
    About midnight a little wayside station is reached, and a cup of hot coffee and a few mouthfuls of food are taken. Then, with fresh horses, another start is made, and from this time on until daylight the memory of the ride is like a nightmare. Sleep is all but impossible, owing to the spasmodic throes of the stage, but tired nature asserts herself and one falls asleep for a blissful minute or two, only to be awakened by a savage plunge and toss which threatens to dislocate every joint in the anatomy, and which, taking full effect in the small of the back, seems to send the spinal column a couple of inches or so farther up than provided by nature.
    But all things, even the most unpleasant, have an end, and soon after daylight the forlorn little town of Waldo is reached and a stop is made for breakfast and to change teams. A basin of cold water and a well-answered appeal for spiritual comfort produce an appetite, which is quickly appeased, and then the last half of the journey is commenced. Any idea that the road might be better and the stage more comfortable is quickly dispelled. From Waldo to the line between Oregon and California the road has apparently had no work done on it for years, and it is consequently a succession of ruts, chuckholes and beds of boulders, over which the driver urges his horses at a rapid trot, and even gallop. There is one spot which is so utterly and internally bad that it has been christened "hell's half acre." But the winter rains have widened the area of uncovered boulders until it comprises several acres, and across this we go on the jump, until every bone in the body feels bruised, and it seems as if the very muscles themselves would be shaken apart. One is fully ready to credit the story that the driver tells with a sardonic smile of the manner in which a Chinese passenger was absolutely jolted to death while being hurried over this vile piece of road, and how any human being can travel it day after day becomes a mystery. Here is a bridge which is certainly a marvel in its way. It is across a stream of considerable size, and is made of a couple of string pieces, across which are loosely laid innumerable small logs. These are not fastened in any manner, and the team pick their way gingerly over the logs, springing apart in every direction, so that it appears a miracle that the horses do not lose their footing, while the vehicle rattles over the corduroy in a manner which calls anything but blessings upon the heads of officials who could permit so primitive a structure to be maintained.
    When the California line is reached, however, a very different state of affairs is encountered. Here is a good road, narrow it is true, and with steep grades, but it is well kept and the discomfort of staging is at a minimum. To be sure, every 100 feet or so there is a "thanky-marm" or elevation for drainage, and until one learns how to meet these by making a hinge of his backbone they are apt to produce considerable discomfort about the stomach. But the mystery is quickly mastered, and from this on the journey has many pleasant features and one is at liberty to enjoy the scenery, which becomes more and more attractive the farther Del Norte County is penetrated. The hills are thickly covered with wild berries, including a most delicious red huckleberry, and the driver kindly stops long enough to allow a quantity of them to be gathered.
    For mile after mile the road winds about the mountains, now down in some deep canyon and then along a lofty summit. Frequently the old trail is crossed, over which supplies were once packed for all of Southern Oregon, Northern California, and even into Idaho and Montana. The constant passage of thousands of men and animals has in many places worn this trail two or three feet beneath the surrounding surface, and though long since abandoned it is still as plain as in the days when it was most traveled.
    Here and there along the road are rude shanties erected for the accommodation of the mail carriers during the winter, and that some shelter is needed is seen by the blazed marks on the trees by the side of the road twenty feet up in the air, denoting the level of the snow of last winter.
    For many miles there is not a sign of human habitation, nor indeed is there any place for such, there being no arable land and no opportunity for the most frugal settler to make a living in any way. Finally, after several hours of steady climbing the summit is reached, and a sharp descent is made into the valley of the Smith River. That stream is crossed by a rude but substantial bridge, and the valley widening out a fine ranch with numerous buildings is reached. This is known as Gasquet's, and is also a post office and stage station. The owner, Horace Gasquet, settled here many years ago, long before wagon roads were thought of. He planted an orchard and a vineyard, cleared the land, engaged in stock-raising, built good roads, and is now one of the wealthiest men in Del Norte County. A more beautiful location than this place it would be difficult to find. There are several hundred acres of arable land, and it is surrounded on every side by lofty, timber-clad mountains. The air is pure and bracing, the water is abundant, clear and cold; hunting and fishing can be had readily, and a more charming spot in which to pass a vacation could not be imagined.
    At Gasquet's another team and driver are taken for the remainder of the trip to Crescent City. The road passes down the valley about a mile, and then begins the sharp ascent of the mountain which forms the south bank of the river. It is only a narrow shelf cut out of the rock, and just space enough is allowed for the passage of a single vehicle. In many places a difference of six inches would precipitate the vehicle down the steep precipice over a thousand feet into the rocky gorge through which flows the river. Over this road the driver urges his team on the jump. Around curves they dash at the top of their speed, winding in and out of the gulches, and tossing the stage about in a manner that the driver evidently thinks must be alarming to his single passenger. But the scenery is too grand to allow of any time being spent in unnecessary fear, and secure in the knowledge that if anything is hurt the man in charge will be the worst sufferer, being on the side next the gorge, attention is paid entirely to the marvelously beautiful panorama that is unfolded at every turn. There is an autumnal haze in the atmosphere which adds to the attractiveness of the scene, while faintly borne on the breeze is the rush and roar of the torrent which is pouring through the narrow, rock-bound gorge over a thousand feet below. Tall redwoods fill the gulches and line the roadway in many places, while here and there are the traces left by the gold miners, who first brought this region into prominence. The road at last descends nearly to a level with the river, then passes over a light and graceful suspension bridge, and then without a moment's warning goes into the dense forest, which continues until Crescent City is reached. So dense is the growth and so numerous are the trees that the light of the sun seldom penetrates to the ground, which is damp and rich with decayed vegetation, and supports an undergrowth almost tropical in its luxuriance. For mile after mile the road winds about among these forest giants. In many places a corduroy has been laid, as otherwise the road would be impassable, since the sun does not penetrate with sufficient power to evaporate the moisture and prevent the roads from becoming a perfect slough of despond. Although it be bright and warm outside of the forest, here the air is dank and chill, and the few residents who greet the stage as it passes look gaunt and thin, with specter-like faces, as becomes those who live away from the sunlight. Although there is much to admire in these vast redwood forests, it is with a feeling of relief that they are left behind, not gradually but at a single step, like one passing through a gateway in a solid stone wall, and we emerge into the bright sunlight of the Elk Valley, with Crescent City almost at our feet, and the dancing waters of the bay in the distance, dotted with picturesque islands, and with the white sails of vessels passing to and fro.
    It is a couple of miles or so from the edge of the forest to Crescent City, and the road passes through a belt of country devoted almost solely to dairying. Herds of sleek cattle are pasturing in the high grass, and an occasional orchard of apples, pears and peaches shows that horticulture may be followed with success.
    The town is built close to the water's edge, the main street, indeed, being almost a part of the beach itself. Rows of piles have been driven on the water side of the thoroughfare and beyond them are great heaps of driftwood, washed up during the winter. Indeed, there is so much of this that in numerous cases the owners of property along the waterfront derive their entire supply of fuel from this source.
    There is a population here of upward of 1600 persons, and outside of the business houses, the principal industries in which they are employed are the lumber trade and dairying. There is an extensive sawmill in the city, belonging to Hobbs, Wall & Co., and giving employment to a large force of men. The logs for this mill are brought by railroad from the forest, into which the line penetrates twelve miles. The railroad is the property of Hobbs, Wall & Co., and was last year extended across Smith River by a bridge, which was, however, washed out last winter, and has not yet been replaced. This firm maintain two logging camps in the redwoods, of which they control a very large tract. They have a monthly payroll of over $10,000, and ship annually from 6,000,000 to 7,000,000 feet of lumber.
    J. Wenger & Co. also have a logging camp and a sawmill a short distance from town. They depend upon the Hobbs Wall Railroad for hauling their logs, and their annual product is over 4,000,000 feet, with a monthly payroll of some $3500.
    J. D. Hume owns an extensive mill at the mouth of Smith River, and has an immense amount of lumber on hand which is now being shipped. The mouth of the river was closed by a bar some time ago, and for a couple of years it has been impossible for vessels to get up to the mill. This difficulty has now been partially done away with, and shipments have been resumed.
    Crescent City boasts of several fine buildings, among the number being the courthouse, schoolhouse, and the office of the Del Norte Record. This is one of the oldest and best papers in the state, and is owned and edited by J. E. Eldredge. The Crescent City News is now in its second volume, and is a fine eight-column paper, making a specialty of the resources of the county. It is edited by Lucas & Miller. To the editors of both these papers the writer is indebted for much of the information contained herein.
    Crescent City has two wharves, and the shipments of freight are made entirely by water. During the past season there was over 11,000,000 feet of lumber shipped, with 500,000 pounds of butter and immense quantities of shakes, salmon, etc. The distance from Crescent City to San Francisco is 280 miles, and the rates of freight are reasonably low.
    There are in the city 4 hotels, 2 restaurants, 6 general stores, 1 furniture and upholstering establishment, 2 millinery stores, 2 drug stores, 1 hardware store with tinshop connected, 1 harness shop, 1 merchant tailor, 1 undertaking establishment, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 livery stables, 3 barber shops, 1 brewery, 1 shoe shop, 2 meat markets, 1 bakery, 1 photograph gallery, 15 saloons, 2 newspapers with job offices attached, 2 large sawmills and 1 box factory (near town), 1 shake and shingle mill, woodyard attached, 1 tannery, 2 churches (Catholic and M.E.), 1 lodge each of Free and Accepted Masons, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Ancient Order of United Workmen and Native Sons of the Golden West, 1 schoolhouse, 4 departments, courthouse, 5 lawyers, 2 physicians and 2 jewelers.
    This place is one of the few on the Pacific Coast which can boast that no Chinese are allowed to reside within its limits, or within the county for that matter. At one time there were some 300 in and about the town, but they were quietly informed that their presence would be no longer tolerated, and with no show of violence they were escorted to the steamer, and departed for San Francisco. As a result, one looks in vain for that blot in so many otherwise pleasant cities--Chinatown--while there is an abundance of employment for all the resident white population. The laundry work is all done by whites or Indians, and the town has prospered since the departure of the Chinese as it never did before.
    Ten miles north of Crescent City is the settlement of Smith River Corners, or Del Norte, which is the only other place of importance outside of the county seat. The valley here is much wider than in the neighborhood of Gasquet's, and there is much good farming and dairy land. Some fruit is produced, notably apples of choice quality, but the dairy is the principal source of income and never fails to yield good results. The location of this settlement is attractive in the extreme, and with better means of transportation it would undoubtedly become a favorite resort for tourists. Smith River has two hotels, two general stores, one drug store, two millinery stores, one tinshop, one livery stable, one wagon and carpenter shop combined, two blacksmith shops, one undertaking establishment, four saloons, one doctor, one barber, one lodge of A.O.U.W., one church (Methodist Episcopal), and a salmon fishery packing and canning establishment near the town at the mouth of Smith River.
    At the mouth of the Klamath River is the little village of Requa, which was one of the first settlements in the county, but has never attained much prominence because of the unsettled condition of land titles in the immediate vicinity.
    Many years ago an Indian reservation was set aside covering a tract for a mile on each side of the Klamath and extending for twenty miles up the river. This reservation was never occupied to any extent, and in 1864 Congress decided that it should be abandoned. No steps, however, were taken to open it to settlement, and as a consequence many disputes have arisen. There are only about seventy-five Indians in this region, all told, and the whites claim that it is unjust to prevent a proper use being made of the lands. Along the river are several thousand acres of arable land, and this is largely occupied by squatters. Back from the stream is much valuable redwood land. At the mouth of the Klamath J. D. Hume has a cannery, which he has maintained for some time. Recently steps have been taken looking to the opening of this reservation for settlement, and the people who have held on here in the face of much hardship are now confident that they will at last be enabled to obtain titles to their land. They have been driven away by troops several times, but have persisted in holding on to their claims in spite of opposition, and have not been molested now for several years. They are willing that the few remaining Indians should be given a suitable amount of land if they so desire but do not think it just that so many thousand acres should be held for the benefit of a few dozen savages, who never think of such a thing as undertaking to cultivate the soil for themselves.
    Del Norte County is rich in minerals. Gold, copper, coal, granite, chrome, iron, asbestos, etc., are found within the limits of the county, and only need capital to develop their richness. The principal industries of the county are dairying, lumbering and salmon fishing. Del Norte butter commands the highest price in the San Francisco markets.
    The salmon fisheries at present are confined to the Klamath and Smith rivers. At the former river are located the canneries of John Bomhoff & Co. and the Excelsior Packing Company. During the season these companies employ about 150 hands. At Smith River the Occident and Orient Company of San Francisco have a fishery.
    Del Norte has vast forests of redwood and other timber lands extending from the southern boundary of the county, one mile south of the Klamath River, in an almost unbroken belt to the northern boundary line, a distance of nearly forty miles and from four to ten miles in breadth. Most of this timber land has been taken up under various acts of Congress, but there still remains some 50,000 acres which, if the townships were open, could be filed on.
    There are some 200,000 acres of redwood timber in the county, and much of it has yielded as high as 166,000 feet to the acre. From a single tract of 120 acres there have been 20,000,000 feet out. The Crescent City News, in an estimate of the amount of timber in the redwood belt, says: "We would perhaps be warranted in estimating the entire belt at 60,000 feet to the acre, but in order that none may charge us with overestimation, we place the production at only 30,000 feet to the acre, or 5,760,000,000 feet in all. During the last two years there has been exported at the rate of 14,000,000 feet of lumber annually. At that rate it would require 410 years to consume the entire belt, or if the production should be increased to 100,000,000 feet per annum, it would require sixty years to handle the crop. The entire cost of chopping, sawing and transporting the lumber to the steamer for shipment, under the present system, is $12 per thousand, and the stumpage is estimated at $1 per 1000, which indicates a distribution among our people of $182,000 annually for the period of 410 years; or, if the production was increased to 100,000,000, the distribution would be $1,300,000 annually for a period of sixty years. The removal of the timber does not exhaust the value of these lands. The axman, in penetrating the forests and appropriating nature's great crop to the uses of man, is only preparing the land for the husbandman. As the sound of the woodman's ax dies away in the distance the farmer, with his family, his herds and his plows, moves on to take his place, and the rich soil that has laden so many ships with nature's bountiful crop is reclaimed from its wild state, and the field, orchard and garden take the place of the once majestic monarch of the forest--the redwood."
    It may be added that the estimate of 60,000 feet to the acre is regarded by many experts as none too high, in which case the figures given by the paper quoted would be exactly doubled.
    Upon the subject of the horticultural development of the county the paper already quoted is confident that this will one day become one of the leading branches of agriculture, as most of the fruits common to the temperate zone grow here to perfection.
    Apples, pears, plums and cherries take the lead, and the state produces no finer peaches and apricots than can be found along the Klamath River. It is here that horticulturists might find an interesting field for study. In many places the indolent Indian has attempted to pattern after his white brother and has planted the peach seed, procured from fruit shipped from other parts of the state. These orchards are arranged without artistic design, and have had little or no care other than to protect them from the ravages of beasts. The trees are all seedlings, yet the fruit is large and delicious. The trees are often overloaded with fruit. The poor Indian reads not the agricultural reports, and thinks that an abundant harvest consists of a large number of peaches. Nature here is unaided, and the outcome is her own spontaneous productions.
    All kinds of small fruits do well in this county. H. Gasquet last year partially supplied the Crescent City market with grapes from a small vineyard situated in the valley of the middle branch of Smith River. The indications are that the gentle hillslopes are highly adapted to the growth of the grape.
    Judge James E. Murphy is experimenting with the olive in the vicinity of the Bald Hills. His trees are young, but making a thrifty growth. The area of grazing and farming lands is all the time increasing as the lumberman advances into the heart of the forest. There are still opportunities for the making of homes in Del Norte, but capital and labor will be required in their development, the expenditure of which are secondary considerations for those seeking a home with a climate so desirable as this.
    The complete returns for the census of Del Norte County are as follows: Crescent township 1629, Smith River 709 and Klamath township 260. Total, 2697. According to the census of 1880 Del Norte had a population of 1888, not including the 596 in Happy Camp township. This gives an increase of 509 in ten years.
    No railroads from the outside world penetrate the borders of Del Norte County, but the facilities for travel are as good as in any of the isolated counties of the state, if not better. The steamer Crescent City makes regular trips between San Francisco and Crescent City. During the season steam schooners and sailing vessels are engaged in carrying lumber between the above-mentioned ports. Connection with the California and Oregon Railroad is made by a stage that runs daily from Smith River and Crescent City to Grants Pass, Or.
    A good wagon road has recently been built up the coast to Coos Bay, in Oregon, and another is projected southward to Humboldt County.
    Few, doubtless, of the readers of the Chronicle have ever had an opportunity to witness the interesting operation of the conversion of the giant redwood trees into lumber, and as all the details of this operation seem to have been brought to a great pitch of perfection in the forests of Del Norte County it will be of interest to describe them as briefly as may be at this juncture. In the first place, the plant required for the profitable handling of the redwoods is of the most extensive and costly character, and in order to warrant any individual or company undertaking this expense it is essential that control be had of as large an area of forest as possible. It would be folly for the owner of a quarter or half section, or even of a section, of forest to undertake the profitable conversion of the standing timber into marketable lumber, and the first step, therefore, consists in a consolidation of ownership of many hundred acres.
    Having provided the sawmills, railroads, and all the paraphernalia that is necessary, and having engaged a large corps of skilled laborers, a camp is established in the forest in such a position that a large area of timber may be handled without changing location. The foreman selects a spot for beginning and the "fellers" or choppers start in. Choosing a tree, they inspect the neighboring ground and decide in what position it must fall in order to prevent shattering the trunk or injuring the surrounding trees, which cluster thickly about. So expert are these fellers that they can lay the tree within six inches of the point selected. Having chosen the direction of falling, the choppers set to work with axes which have a double edge and a perfectly straight helve. They cut narrow and deep holes into the trunk as high as they can reach, and in them insert boards, upon which they stand while chopping into the tree at a point just above the swell of the base. The kerf that is chopped is gauged to a nicety, for upon it depends entirely the accuracy with which the tree is directed in its fall. Having chopped from a quarter to a third of the way through the trunk, the boss feller takes two straight sticks, called in lumbering parlance a gun, and by a sort of triangulation from the center and extremities of the kerf ascertains whether the proper amount of chopping has been done and what further cutting may be necessary at each side of the kerf. The operation is one of great delicacy, and upon its exact accuracy depends the safety of the tree when it shall fall, and the prevention of damage to the surrounding timber.
    Having taken his sights and gauged the kerf to a nicety, the boards are removed to the opposite side of the tree and placed in another set of holes prepared for them. A large crosscut saw is now brought into use, and the two choppers set to work to cut the trunk at a point exactly opposite the kerf. The sawing must be very carefully done, for any error in the line of separation would be disastrous upon the direction in which it is intended the tree shall fall. When but an inch or two of the trunk is left, slight preliminary cracks warn the choppers that the tree is about to fall, and they have ample time to descend from their elevated position and take a place where they will be secure from possible accident.
    The sight of one of these forest giants, ten to fifteen feet in diameter and 250 to 300 feet high, in its majestic descent to the ground, is grand and beyond the power of pen to describe. At first the movement is almost imperceptible. The bushy treetop waves in the air as though agitated by a gentle breeze, and the sighing of its boughs sounds like a sigh over the ignoble but necessary fate that awaits it. The great trunk now begins to lean slightly to one side. Tremors run through it, and cracks and groans are heard, these latter being almost human in their distinctness. It needs but a small amount of imagination to endow this hoary trunk with a human sensibility. Farther and farther leans the trunk, more and more rapidly it is inclined, until, losing its balance, it descends swiftly to the ground, which it smites with a mighty blow and a terrible crash that is felt and heard for miles.
    The choppers view their work with satisfaction and calmness--provided the tree has fallen in the place designed for it--with imprecations if they have missed their aim ever so little, and then proceed to choose another victim. Sentiment is nothing to them--the utilitarian governs them entirely. They are paid $60 or $80 a month, with board, for their work, and all they care is to earn their money.
    The tree being now prone upon the ground, the peelers attack it. These men are armed with long-handled implements, with a spade-like edge, with which they remove the thick bark from the trunk, and prepare the way for the sawyer. The trunk is marked out in equal lengths, and the sawyers (who are the best paid of all the workers) at once set to work and in a short time have it cut up into logs varying from fourteen to twenty-two feet or more in length, as may be desired.
    Previous to the attack of the peelers, however, the swampers have done their work. They cut away the underbrush, pile it up and set fire to it. By this means a great deal of bark is burned from the trees, making the peelers' job lighter.
    After the logs have been cut up men armed with broadaxes come, who select the flattest side of the log, if it is not quite round, and chamfer the ends so that they may readily slide upon the skids prepared.
    Roads have already been laid into the forest, leading to the landing places where the logs are to be placed on the cars. These roads are made by embedding hemlock logs halfway into the ground and smoothing the surface so that the logs may be readily hauled over it. A donkey engine is now brought into play and by ingenious combinations of chains, blocks and ropes the great logs are dragged to the roadway and placed upon the skids. Here chains are fastened to them and six or seven yokes of oxen are attached and the journey to the railroad commences. A boy goes ahead with a great can of grease and a brush and applies the lubricant to the skids as well as to the logs that are being hauled.
    The landing place is simply a lot of skids arranged on a bank so that their surface is exactly even with the tops of the small but massive platform cars that are used for hauling the logs to the mill. Upon these skids the logs are let in long rows parallel to the railroad track.
    A train of cars is backed alongside and the engine is cut loose. On the opposite side of the track from the logs is an immense chain fastened to several massive tree trunks, and reaching the entire length of the train. Into this chain a movable pulley is hooked, through which passes a great rope, one end of which is made fast to the engine. The other end is divided into two ropes, each of which terminates in a sharp hook. One of these hooks is driven into each end of a log and then the engine is started, and quicker by far than the operation can be described the log is slid on one of the cars and is blocked in position. Under ordinary circumstances not more than ten minutes or so are consumed in loading the entire train, no matter how large or heavy the logs may be.
    Having been loaded, the train proceeds to its destination, which in the case under description is at Crescent City, on the bank of a small creek that runs inland for a mile or so. Here is a sort of slide extending along the track for some distance, and the blocks under the logs being removed a few turns of a jack quickly start the great timbers, and they slide into the water with a great splash. In many cases the butt cuts of the largest redwoods are so filled with sap, and their texture has become so dense with the tremendous weight above, that they sink to the bottom like a stone, and must be grappled and raised before they can be conveyed to the sawmill, which is just below.
    When needed at the mill the logs are floated to the chute, fastened with chains to a carriage, and drawn up to where great saws are awaiting it. At this mill there are three saws set together, each of which is sixty inches in diameter. With these in rapid motion it does not take long to cut a log into pieces of a size suitable to be handled by smaller machinery, and which turn out lumber of all sizes and shapes.
    The lumbermen warmly resent the charge so freely made that their methods are wasteful. No one knows better than they the necessity for economy, and they carefully utilize all the timber that can be worked up. It is true there is an immense amount of stumps and broken trunks left after their work is finished, but nothing is left that is available for anything but firewood, and with better methods of transportation even this would be utilized. But every tree or log that will make anything, even to a fence picket, is worked up.
San Francisco Chronicle, August 17, 1890, page 10


    Crescent City sits queen-like on her pebble beach. Her harbor is a dangerous one in a stormy sea, and needs improvement, which she hopes to get sometime soon from Uncle Sam; nevertheless she gets a fair trade from the ships that come and go. Her merchants and business of all kinds seemed prosperous and happy. We noticed a new Presbyterian church newly completed, and their new minister came before we left. This church gave a social to which we were invited with true hospitality, and it was with genuine sorrow that we declined on account of the soiled condition of our "other clothes." However when Thursday evening came we heard a church bell, and thought we could manage about the clothes in the evening and went. This proved to be the Methodist church; we found a full house and an earnest preacher, Rev. Colin Anderson. There are in the city some beautiful residences and flowers, flowers; nearly every house has a conservatory and the yards are full and fresh as ours are in June, and they gave us slips and roots to our heart's content, and if we can only make them grow and bloom as they do there, we shall be delighted. But I have another chapter of this trip to write so will close this ere we make it too long.
"A Fortnight on the Coast," Del Norte Record, Crescent City, September 24, 1892, page 1


    Crescent City has a historic background, rich with the romance of other days, when the hardy adventurous pioneers, the empire builders, the argonauts of the '50s flocked here from the four quarters of the globe
    If we could peer behind the curtain of the past we would behold a scene that would quicken our pulses and inspire us with the faith of those dauntless ones who in 1852 gazed into the future and saw a mighty city encircling the shores of Crescent Beach.
    We would see three and four large steamers that weekly called at this port from San Francisco and Portland, bringing in hundreds of passengers and large freight supplies for Crescent City and all points east between Yreka and Roseburg.
    Express messengers from rival companies would be seen scurrying in all directions, each bent on outstripping the others and being the "first in" with tidings from the outside world.
    The streets were alive with pack trains, strings of upwards of 100 mules daily running to and from Yreka, Jacksonville and Roseburg.
    The usual evening scene disclosed Second Street, from K to E, crowded with teams, one side of the street lined with incoming teams, and the other with outbound, loaded teams.
    Everywhere the free and easy miner spent his "dust" like a millionaire and contributed to the general prosperity.
    This region was first discovered more by accident than design, its discovery growing out of an attempt to find Trinidad Bay. In 1845 Major P. B. Reading discovered the Trinity River. It was then supposed that the Trinity emptied into the ocean at Trinidad Bay. He made further explorations in 1849 and brought back to the California miners reports of fabulous mineral wealth to be found along that stream.
    To rediscover Trinidad Bay, visited in 1775 by a Spanish explorer, became the all-important object of the miners in and around San Francisco. They sought thus to find easy access to the Trinity River and eliminate the arduous journey over rough trails and through mountain passes.
    In 1849 two exploring parties, one a land expedition and the other by sea, set out from the Trinity gold fields to find Trinidad Bay and the outlet of the Trinity River. The sea expedition came down through the Sacramento Valley to San Francisco, outfitted and sailed from that port in the brig Cameo in December, 1849.
    The land party crossed over the mountains to the coast, found Trinidad Bay and Humboldt Bay, but failed to learn that the Trinity River did not empty into the Pacific.
    The sea expedition, unable to locate the inlet sought for, returned to San Francisco and declared Trinidad Bay a myth. But on being assured by the land explorers that the bay in truth existed, a second attempt was made with the brig Cameo, followed by the schooner Laura Virginia and she in turn by several other vessels. The Cameo rounded Trinidad Head, sent a boat's crew ashore to explore, was compelled to desert the latter and put to sea in a storm, sailed north to Point St. George and made a landing on the present site of Crescent City. The Laura Virginia followed shortly afterwards. These events occurred in April, 1850. It is quite probable that many other vessels called here between that date and the initial settlement of Crescent City in 1852. It was not until 1854 that any real progress was made toward building up the town.
    An excellent pen picture of those earliest days in Crescent City is found in this description by the late N. McNamara, one of the oldest pioneers:
    "I arrived in Crescent City on March 12, 1853. At that time there were no hotels in town, everybody camping out and rustling for themselves. I made my camp under the spreading branches of a spruce tree that grew near where the residence of the late Ben West now stands. In those days the spruce forest extended down to the beach. As a natural consequence the first buildings erected were near the beach, near the present line of Front Street. I am under the impression that the first hotel was built in 1853 by Major Bradford.
    "At that time Crescent City was considered the future metropolis of the Northwest, but the Indian wars of 1856 made the route to the mines in Southern Oregon and Northern California so dangerous to travel that the miners were compelled to look for another route by which to receive their supplies. This they found up the Sacramento Valley, through Siskiyou County and across the Siskiyou Mountains, striking Rogue River Valley a little south of the present site of Ashland, Oregon. A company was formed in 1858 of Messrs. Stateler, McKay, Dobson and myself for the purpose of monopolizing the freight traffic, thus endeavoring to keep that business flowing through Crescent City. We bought $50,000 worth of mules and made contracts to deliver freight to Yreka, Fort Jones and Jacksonville--in fact, all points in Southern Oregon and Northern California.
    "But in 1858 the Fraser River mining excitement drew most all of the miners from these sections of Oregon and California, and the freighting business died out gradually. This excitement was followed by discoveries of rich mines in Idaho and Montana, and, with but few exceptions, the miners never returned to this part of California; and this in a great degree accounts for this country never having been thoroughly prospected."
    Another important factor not mentioned by the able pioneer just quoted was the completion of the Shasta Route of the Southern Pacific railroad through the valleys immediately eastward, thus supplying all those towns whose entire trade before that time had passed through the port of Crescent City, now left isolated to the westward.
    The month of April, 1857, brought the heaviest immigration to Del Norte that the county had ever known in the same length of time. During three days 450 passengers were landed in Crescent City. In March, April and May of that year this city received 1278 tons of freight and 1717 passengers. These figures give a fair idea of the volume of business that came to Crescent City in 1857. From that year up to 1865 the port enjoyed a flourishing period of prosperity. It was advertised far and near as the commercial center of the Northwest.
    So much for the early-day background of Crescent City and Del Norte County. Their present-day condition and future prospects will be fully dealt with in other articles of this issue.
    With two great coast highways rapidly nearing completion, to converge near this point; with every indication that the government will complete the harbor development so auspiciously begun; with excellent prospects of coast and eastern railroad transportation for this most northern of California counties; with a vast empire of unexploited resources awaiting development--who shall say that a future as bright as the radiant past does not await Del Norte County?
Interstate News, Brookings, March 21, 1924, page 5, special section of Del Norte Triplicate, Crescent City, March 21, 1924


    For 55 years James C. Bradford, who lives at 5275 Northeast 18th Avenue, worked in sawmills, most of that time in various mills in Portland.
    "I retired six years ago," said Mr. Bradford, "when I was nearly 75 years of age. I was born at Crescent City, Cal. on March 4, 1854, in which city my father, Major Ward Bradford, built the first house. My first recollection has to do with something that rankled my soul with childish indignation of what I considered an injustice to me. My father had moved from Crescent City to a ranch in Smith River Valley, about 12 miles from Crescent City. In those days transportation was almost entirely by pack horse. A packer had put up at our place and left a small spotted cayuse pony, which had played out. I was about 5 years old at the time, and the packer gave me the pony. This pony was so lazy and gentle that it was absolutely safe for me to handle. I spent most of my time leading it into fence corners and climbing on its back. In time this pony became really fond of me and I became devoted to Billy, for he was the only thing I could call really my own.
    "At the close of the Rogue River Indian war there were a few Indians left who refused to sign our peace treaty. The white men, they claimed, had taken their land without payment, and killed their people, so a little group of seven Indians moved back into the mountains, swearing vengeance. Their leader was called "Six-toed Pete." He had six toes on each foot and six fingers on each hand. He was about 6 feet 2 inches tall and extremely powerful. One day one of the friendly Indians came to my father and told him that Six-toed Pete was trying to get the friendly Indians to join his band to attack the whites. Father said, 'The next time they send up a smoke signal, answer it, meet with them and learn their plans.' This Indian did so, and reported that Pete wanted this Indian, with six others, to meet him and the six Indians of his band and plan an attack. Father said, 'If you will kill Pete and the Indians in his band the white men of Crescent City will give you all the blankets you want, and pay you well.' The Indian said, 'I know the white man. If we kill Pete and his band, then the white men will kill us.'
    "Father went with this Indian to Crescent City and met the business men there and they assured the Indian that no harm would come to him or the other friendly Indians, and that they would give him blankets, guns, powder, lead, flour, sugar, and other supplies, if he would kill Pete and his band. Finally, Father persuaded the Indians to kill their tribesmen, the hostiles. The seven friendly Indians met Pete on Bald Mountain. They sat down to discuss plans for attack. The arrangement had been for both parties to come to the council without arms. The friendly Indians had been furnished with short sharp-bladed knives, which they had secreted, and at a preconcerted signal they attacked Pete and his six unarmed warriors, killed them, dragged their bodies to a small gully nearby and covered them with brush.
    "The friendly Indian then came to our ranch, reported the killing of Pete and the other hostiles, and wanted his pay. Father gathered a posse of about 20 armed men, went to Bad Mountain, and found the bodies of the slain Indians. They buried the bodies and came back to our ranch. Father went with the Indians to Crescent City, where they selected their pay in blankets, beads, powder, lead and groceries. Father's share of the payment did not cost him anything, for he gave my spotted pony, Billy, to the chief of the friendly Indians for the use of his boy, who was about my age. Thereafter I never saw that little Indian riding my spotted cayuse without feeling that someone had stolen my horse. I couldn't figure out whether it was my father, the little Indian boy, or the Indian boy's father; nevertheless, I knew I had been shortchanged in that particular deal."
Oregon Journal, Portland, October 6, 1934, page 4