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The Infamous Black Bird Southern Oregon History, Revised


Jackson County 1916


JACKSON COUNTY
(Jacksonville, County Seat)
    Jackson County lies in what is known as the Rogue River Valley in the southwestern part of the state. It is bounded on the north by Douglas County, on the west by Josephine County, on the east by Klamath County, and on the south by California. The population is 26,484 (U.S. Census, 1910, 25,756) . Of these, 89 percent are United States born. Of the 11 percent foreign born, about one-fourth are Germans, the remaining three-fourths being made up principally of Canadians, English, Irish, Scandinavians and Austrians. The total area of the county is 1,779,662 acres. There are 58,125 acres unappropriated and unreserved, of which 55,885 acres are surveyed. There are 464,560 acres of O.& C. grant lands located in this county, that portion of which found suited to agriculture will be thrown open to homestead entry as soon as classified. (See "Oregon & California Land Grant Lands" in this report.) Of the assessed appropriated land, 128,500 acres are cultivated and 1,076,601 acres are uncultivated, of which about 300,000 acres are tillable. Cultivated land is assessed on an average of $78.93 per acre, and uncultivated land $9.45. The total assessed value of taxable property in the county in 1916 was $22,989,100; public service corporations, $3,505,405.26. These values represent 62 percent of actual valuations. There are 765 miles of public highways in this county, of which 15 miles are hard-surfaced, 15 miles macadamized and graveled and 735 miles of earth roads. The total amount expended for roads in 1915, produced by taxes, was $109,736.23, and provided for 1916, $70,399.97. A bond issue of $500,000 in 1913, together with an appropriation of $150,000 by the state, was expended upon the construction of the Pacific Highway in this county during the past three years. During a period of twelve years (1904 to 1915, inclusive) this county has expended an aggregate of $1,289,894.81 upon its public highways, segregated by years as follows: 1904, $17,428.31; 1905, $11,163.50; 1906, $12,413.02; 1907, $19,914.61; 1908, $41,746.33; 1909, $79,188.17; 1910, $100,309.76; 1911, $258,967.42; 1912, $65,172.28; 1913, $132,127.46; 1914, $441,727.71; 1915, $109,736.23.
    The surface is level, rolling, and mountainous. The rock formation in the western part is pre-Cretaceous; in the eastern part it is a combination of Cretaceous and Eocene. The natural forest growth consists principally of yellow and sugar pine, and fir. Fruit of all kinds, especially peaches, apples, and pears, has been found to grow well on this soil, which is rich in all essential chemicals. It is likely to be a very lasting soil. Its first need will probably be phosphoric acid. The soil is black and deep, ranging from ten inches to several feet. The subsoil is hard and white. The sugar beet, hemp, onions, sorghum, and strawberries should grow well on this soil. The soil in the immediate vicinity of the valley consists of successive alluvial deposits of different geological periods and is very rich. Rogue River and its branches furnish excellent water power for milling purposes. The fuel used is wood and costs from $4.00 to $6.00 per cord. There are several mineral springs with good curative qualities in the county. The leading industry is farming. Lumbering is carried on extensively. There are four planing mills and one saw and planing mill. Mining is also an important industry. There are sixteen gold quartz mines, a number of placer mines, five asphalt mines, two copper mines yielding 30 percent ore, one iron mine; also quantities of asbestos, quicksilver, and building stone. (Mineral products, .1915, page 105.) Among the industrial plants of the county are found brickyards, Portland cement works, creameries, cold storages, electric light, flour and feed, fruit canneries, laundries, machine shops, printing, soda water and water power. The roads are in good condition, one road leading direct to Crater Lake, the scenic wonder of the world. The climate is mild and congenial. The mean temperature during the spring months is 50.5 degrees; summer, 61.1 degrees; fall, 56.4 degrees; and winter, 42.7 degrees. The normal precipitation per season is: Spring, 6.40 inches; summer, 4.36 inches; fall, 5.70 inches; and winter, 12.46 inches; total annual, 28.92 inches. A large percentage of the Rogue River Valley has been put under irrigation.
    Ashland (O. H. Johnson, Mayor)--Ashland is situated on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, 230 miles south of Portland. The altitude is 1,960 feet. It covers an area of about 2,240 acres, and has a population of 6,000. The assessed valuation of city property is $2,880,640, with a total general bonded indebtedness of $219,692.25. The city has a Carnegie library, model hospital, a sanitarium, and an armory that cost $36,000. There are twelve churches--Baptist, Catholic, Christian, Christian Science, Congregational, Dunkard, Episcopal, Free Methodist, Methodist, Nazarene, Presbyterian and Spiritualist. Two schoolhouses are valued at $60,000, and a city hall at $15,000. A fine new high school building cost over $75,000. Thirty-three school teachers are employed, receiving salaries of from $65.00 to $138.00 per month. The chief of police receives $75.00 per month, and assistant $65.00. Common labor, $2.00 to $2.50 per day; skilled labor, $4.00; and man and team, $5.00 per day. An electric light plant is under successful municipal ownership, but there is also a large corporate power and light plant. The gravity waterworks system is owned by the city and pays a profit. Private families are given a flat rate of $1.00 per month. Fruit growing, lumbering, stock raising and mining are the principal industries. A carpenter shop, creamery, electric light plant, waterworks, steam laundry, planing mill, ice works, broom factory, fruit cannery and iron foundry are located here. There are good opportunities in fruit growing, dairying, poultry and swine. Ashland is a division point on the Southern Pacific system, and due to this fact quite an extensive payroll is monthly disbursed here. It is also a Chautauqua center, annual sessions of the Southern Oregon assembly being held amid ideal surroundings. Ashland's extensive and beautiful parks are gaining widespread reputation. Bonds to the amount of $175,000 were authorized to pipe into the city for free public use the waters of a number of valuable lithia, soda and sulphur springs, which abound in the immediate vicinity of Ashland. This is believed to be the beginning of the making of Ashland a famous watering place and resort city, favored as it is in the way of climate, scenery and general environment, as well as the greatest variety of desirable mineral waters to be found at one place in the United States.
    Butte Falls (H. D. Mills, Acting Mayor)--Situated on the P.&E. Railway and Big Butte River, 38 miles from Jacksonville, the county seat, and 30 miles southwest of Medford. Population, 500. Has one church (Presbyterian), graded school, a bank, two hotels, one hardware store, one dry goods store, two general merchandise stores, two groceries, two lumber companies.
    Central Point (W. A. Cowley, Mayor)--Settled in 1884; 325 miles south of Portland on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad; five miles northeast of Jacksonville, the county seat. Bear Creek runs through the town. It was newly incorporated in 1908. Covers an area of 600 acres, and has a population of about 1,120. The altitude is 1,298 feet. The assessed valuation of town property is $536,000, with an indebtedness of $135,000. One schoolhouse is valued at $20,000, and twelve teachers receive salaries ranging from $65.00 to $166.50 per month. Five churches--Baptist, Christian, Christian Science, Methodist and Presbyterian--are valued at $10,000. Town hall at $100.00 [sic]. Y.M.C.A. building valued at $12,000. Common labor is paid $2.50 a day; skilled labor, $4.00; and man and team, $5.00. An electric light plant, private ownership, furnishes the public on a graduated scale of 15 cents per 16-candlepower light per month. Dairying, fruit culture, mining and lumbering are the chief industries. There is one hotel, three blacksmith shops, implement house, harness shop, furniture store, two hardware and two general merchandise stores, livery stable, three cigar and notion stores, two jewelry stores, dentist, two drug stores, tinshop, two barber shops, newspaper, flour and feed mill, and a cement pipe and block factory. There is a great need of a cannery and a cold storage plant. The city has recently installed a water system, furnishing most excellent drinking water and complete fire protection. It has also put in seven miles of sewer, and has paved the main street with asphalt pavement.
    Gold Hill (J. R. R. Morelock, Mayor)--Gold Hill was incorporated in 1895. Covers an area of 290 acres, and has a population of 555. It is located on the main line of the Southern Pacific and on the Rogue River. The altitude is 1,109 feet. The assessed valuation of town property is $280,000, with no indebtedness. Two school buildings are valued at $25,000. Seven teachers receive from $60.00 to $130.00 a month. One church, several denominations, is valued at $2,000. The city marshal is paid $50.00 a month. Daily wage of common labor is $2.50; skilled labor, $3.50; and of man and team, $5.00. The electric light plant is privately owned, but the city owns its waterworks system. The cost of light service is $1.50 a month, and of water $1.00 a month for domestic purposes. Mining, stock raising, fruit culture and farming are the principal industries. Hardware store, three general merchandise stores, hotel, restaurant, a livery stable, one blacksmith, a machine shop, furniture dealer, three barber shops, one jeweler, one tailor, a carpenter shop, telephone office, a butcher shop, a confectionery store, a pool room, two soft drink places, one light lunch place, one drug store, implement and hardware stores, one lawyer, one newspaper, one moving picture theatre, one photograph gallery, a cement plant, a bank, one flour and feed store, three rooming houses that serve meals, a planing mill and box factory, a lime kiln, a hospital, a market gardener are the leading enterprises. Splendid camping, hunting and fishing grounds, climate adapted for all-the-year residence. Hay fever and asthma are quickly relieved by residence here. There is good opportunity for a cannery, a pottery plant, a meat packing plant, a good hotel and a general merchandise store.
    Jacksonville (E. Britt, Mayor)--Settled in 1852. It is 322 miles south of Portland and five miles from Medford. County seat of Jackson County. Incorporated in 1860. Has a population of about 1,000. The altitude is 1,568 feet. The assessed valuation of town property is $350,000, with a bonded indebtedness of $45,000. One public schoolhouse is valued at $20,000, and six teachers are employed at salaries ranging from $60.00 to $120.00 per month. Three churches--Presbyterian, Methodist and Catholic--courthouse, Masonic and Odd Fellows' halls aggregate a value of $60,000. It is the western terminus of the Rogue River Valley Railroad, with hourly electric car service with Medford. This line is now extending from here into the timber two miles distant. Logging operations will commence about February 1. The city marshal receives $75.00 a month. The daily wage for common labor is $2.50; for skilled labor, $4.00 and up; and man and team, $4.50. The electric light plant, owned by a private corporation, furnishes service to consumers at 10 cents maximum rate per kilowatt hour. The waterworks system is owned by municipality, and is among the best in the state outside of Portland. Mining and fruit culture, both in the early stages of development, are the chief industries. Jacksonville has a sawmill, two general merchandise stores, and five other stores of varied classes, one 30-stamp quartz mill, one brick and tile factory, one cyanide plant, rock quarry for pavement and from which quarry all the roads of the county are being constructed; two banks and one newspaper.
    Medford (V. J. Emerick, Mayor)--Incorporated in 1885. Altitude, 1,337 feet; area, 1,717 acres; population, 10.500. Is 329 miles south of Portland, and 434 miles north of San Francisco, on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad; five miles east of Jacksonville, the county seat, and is the present western terminus of the Pacific & Eastern Railway, now in operation to Butte Falls, in the midst of the great timber belt in the Cascade foothills, 35 miles to the east. Is also the terminus of the Rogue River Valley Railroad, in operation to Jacksonville, and junction point with the Southern Pacific. Assessed valuation of city property is $3,104,128; bonded indebtedness, $1,192,050. Four brick public school buildings and one brick high school building aggregate a value of $150,000; also a private school (St. Mary's Academy), managed by the Catholic Sisters, and a business college. There are twelve churches --Adventist, Baptist, Catholic, Christian, Christian Science, Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal, German Lutheran, Free Methodist, Methodist (South), and Presbyterian. Skilled labor receives $4.00 per day and upward, and common labor, $2.50 to $3.00 per day. Paid fire department with equipment, including auto fire truck costing $15,000. Electric and gas plants privately owned. Gravity water system, installed at an expense of $400,000, and furnishing a water supply sufficient for a city of 25,000, is owned by the city. Fruit growing, diversified farming and mining are the principal industries of the surrounding country. Gold, copper, cinnabar, iron and asbestos mines exist in the county, but the mining industry, except gold mining, and some copper and coal mining, has been at a standstill for the past several years. There are two first-class hotels and several others, grocery stores, hardware stores, general merchandise stores, etc., sufficient for a city of its size, with planing mills, brick yards, three lumber yards, blacksmith shops and garages, also sufficient; cigar factories, two ice plants and precooling station for fruit. Public library that cost $35,000 and federal building to house the post office. United States forestry and pathologist's offices, and United States weather bureau, all located here, at a cost of over $100,000. United States Court holds term of court here once a year. Public market built by the city; space furnished free to farmers, where splendid exhibits of varied products of surrounding country may be seen. Has two daily newspapers and four banks, two national and two state. Also a fine public park in the heart of the city. Also a natatorium and amusement place, with plunge and tub baths, dancing floors, skating rinks, etc., under private ownership. Canning factory for fruits and vegetables has recently been built. Jackson County has spent $500,000 bonds for building of permanent highway which passes through Medford. Crater Lake National Park, one of Nature's most marvelous scenic creations and situated about eighty miles northeast, at the summit of the Cascade Range of mountains in Klamath County, is within easy auto and other vehicle stages from Medford.
    Phoenix (E. G. Coleman, Mayor)--Situated on the S.P. Ry. and the Pacific Highway; was incorporated in 1909; area, 30 acres; population, 400. The assessed value is $210,000; bonded for public water system pumping plant, $22,000. There are two public school buildings; manual training and domestic art and science taught. Eight teachers are employed at salaries from $65.00 to $110.00 per month. School property valued at $20,000. Electric light secured from California-Oregon Power Co. at rate of $1.00 per month for four 16-candlepower lamps. Wages: Common labor, $2.25; skilled labor, $3.00 to $4.00; man and team, $4.50 per day. There are two churches--Christian and Presbyterian. Phoenix has two general merchandise stores, one hardware and implement house, one blacksmith shop, one drug store, one livery stable, one hotel, one barber shop, one cigar store, one meat market. There is a ditch of water capable of developing 30 horsepower going to waste. A bank, cannery, and manufacturing generally would pay well. Farming, grazing and fruit growing are the principal industries in the surrounding country.
    Rogue River (W. P. Weatherell, Mayor)--Population, 450. Situated on Rogue River and the main line of the Southern Pacific Railway, nine miles east of Grants Pass. Altitude, 1,025 feet. Has one schoolhouse and employs six teachers at salaries from $75.00 to $125.00. Has one church (Presbyterian), bank, one drug store, two general merchandise stores, two hotels, one hardware store, one meat market, one livery stable, two blacksmiths, one restaurant, one doctor, one confectionery, one barber shop and one feed store.
    Talent (Wm. H. Breese, Mayor)--Incorporated in 1910. Altitude, 1,637 feet; area, 640 acres; population, 500. Situated on Bear Creek and main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, twelve miles southeast of Jacksonville, the county seat. Assessed valuation of town property is $165,000, with $20,000 bonded indebtedness. Seven teachers in the public schools receive from $65.00 to $125.00 per month. City marshal receives $50.00 per month. One school building, grade and high, has a value of $30,000, and city hall is valued at $2,000. There are four churches--Baptist, Christian, Dunkard and Methodist. Daily wage of common labor is $2.50 to $3.00, and for man and team, $4.50. Electric lighting service is furnished by private corporation at the rate of 10 cents per kilowatt hour, and water system is owned by the municipality, and the rate of service is 15 cents per 1,000 gallons. Lumbering, dairying, fruit growing, truck gardening and poultry raising are the principal industries. The town is provided with hotels, blacksmiths, mercantile establishments, bakery, livery stable, confectionery store, drug store, pool hall and theatre. Good opportunity is offered for investment in development of mineral resources.

State of Oregon, Seventh Biennial Report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics, Salem, 1916, page 144   Phoenix, Rogue River and Talent figures from 1914 report. No corrected data for 1916 obtainable.


PLEASED WITH GRANGEVILLE.
D. W. Stone of Medford, Ore., After Recent Visit Greatly Impressed.
(Lewiston Tribune.)
    D. W. Stone of Medford, Ore., who has been spending the holiday season with Mr. and Mrs. L. M. Foss of this city, is very favorably impressed with this section of Idaho. In company with the O.W.R.N. representative, Mr. Stone has visited various points adjacent to Lewiston. His trip over the Camas Prairie railroad was an eye-opener, and in an interview he said he was agreeably surprised with this section. He is very favorably impressed with the towns of Winchester and Grangeville. He can see a bright future for the former place for the reason that he regards the lumber industry a large asset to that locality at present and a bright prospect for the near future. While the lumber interests are a paying proposition to those interested it will be but a short time before more lands will come under cultivation.
    Grangeville, he thinks, is indeed a good town. Its business houses, banks and hotel are an index to the prosperous community. He is also quite impressed with the efforts of the Craig Mountain Lumber Company in interesting the farmers in raising corn and clover. This is a matter in which the farmers should be deeply interested. It is a step forward toward the introduction of the dairy industry. When the farmer can produce crops he can turn into silage and fill his silo he will find that the dairy and hog business will prove a good auxiliary to his [omission] receive a regular paycheck which will prove a very welcome visitor. He will be in a position to fully realize his income and his profits every month.
    "How does this country compare with Southern Oregon?''
    "Well," said Mr. Stone, "you surely have tied us when it comes to raising wheat. Your exceedingly large yields of all kinds of cereal crops speak volumes for this section of Idaho, and it will be but a short time before your farm lands will be in great demand by the eastern farmers. It is also a beautiful country as well as a prolific district."
Idaho County Free Press, Grangeville, Idaho, January 6, 1916, page 1



    We turn now into the Rogue River canyon and run east for miles, reaching Rogue River, thence through Rock Point, Gold Hill and Ray Gold. One of the first discoveries of gold was at Gold Hill. As we pass on we see the dam, on the east, which develops much of the power for the valley towns. The great flat-topped hill as we pass is Table Rock and beyond is Table Mountain. Mt. Pitt's snow-capped crest 9,760 feet high looms to the south among the lesser peaks of the Cascade Range.
    We here leave the canyon and enter the southern end of the famous Rogue River Valley containing in all 1,000,000 acres, of which one-third is under cultivation and lies between the Umpqua Divide on the north and the Siskiyous on the south, and the car window vista embraces thousands of acres of orchards and farms dotted with ranch houses in ideal surroundings.
    Here we reached Medford Station. Here the valley is 12 miles wide. Medford is the fruit shipping center of southern Oregon. Its prize apples and pears are shipped to all parts of this and European countries. Leaving Medford the line passes through Phoenix with orchard and laurel groves on either hand. Bear Creek flows on the east. As the train climbs the grade a grand view is had of orchards and farms which checkerboard the valley below here.
    We now reach Ashland, a railroad division point on this route, [with] natural attractions, including mineral springs with its curative properties. Ashland is situated in the foothills of the Siskiyous at the base of Mt. Ashland 8,000 ft. and its twin Mt. Wagner 7,000 ft. The waters of Ashland River flow from their snowbank sources through a picturesque canyon.
    Leaving Ashland the train commences its climb to the summit of the Siskiyous 4125 feet above sea level. The distance from Ashland is 17, and the trip takes one hour's run. Soon we come to Cougar Gulch; one tunnel crosses directly above another tunnel. The ascent affords successive views from car window and observation end that will never be forgotten, such is the view between Wall Creek and Siskiyous, looking to the northeast far down into and across the Rogue River Valley with the Cascades forming a barrier in the distance. After emerging from the tunnel at the summit the first view is had of Mt. Shasta, snow clad and towering in the distance to east above intervening hills. Pilot Knob, a prominent landmark, also appears as the train passes down the southern slope.
"Down West Coast: Mr. and Mrs. Huffman Tell of Wonderful Scenery Beyond the Rockies," The Warren Tribune, Warren, Indiana, February 25, 1916, page 2


JACKSONVILLE WAS A GAY TOWN--ONCE
Showed President Hayes a Good Time and Charged Him Well for It.
(By David W. Hazen.)
    The old man in the drug store was obliging, but he could not answer the question.
    "You'll have to look up some of the old-timers," he replied, "for I haven't been here long. I only came to Jacksonville in '72."
    But men and women who lived in the town before the seventies are hard to find. A few who were born there in the days when it was the chief stage station between Yreka and Roseburg still reside in the former busy settlement, but a vast majority of Jacksonville's sons and daughters bid farewell to its hills and historic streets long ago. All hope to return someday--some day when a little procession will follow up to the old cemetery that overlooks the valley, and the worries and cares of a workaday world will be forgotten.
    The hundreds of names one reads on the gravestones is the roll of Jackson County's pioneers. Women who came as brides to the beautiful Oregon country and were belles at the grand balls in the once-gay town just under the hill; men who braved red warriors in the days when the Rogues killed every paleface they could find; rich merchants and wise judges--all sleep in the silent city where the story of Jacksonville's greatness is laconically told on white and gray marble.
    On that June night in 1867 when the council passed the ordinance for the creation of a city cemetery, no one dreamed that in the years to come this last resting place would contain more names than a directory of those living within Jacksonville's corporate limits. But this is true today. Fully 1500 repose beneath the evergreen trees and the flowers that crown the now-sacred hill, while less than 1000 live in the town. Jacksonville is a city of once-upon-a-time.
Weird Portraits Startled Visitors.
    It was in the early '80s that the star of Oregon's mining metropolis reached its zenith. For years the stage coaches had rolled up California Street, while passengers and mail for the towns and settlements to the north left over the trail that ended in Oregon Street. Traveling men from San Francisco and Sacramento would shake the dust from their clothes as they crawled from the lumbering old arks and entered the hotels kept by Mrs. Holt and Louis Horne; gold hunters from Portland and Salem strolled into town and purchased their supplies from the fine stores that face the street named in honor of the Beaver commonwealth, or territory, as it was when the place was founded in 1851.
    A strange welcome greeted the visitors who entered the parlor of the Horne hotel. On the walls of the grim old parlor, filled with slick horsehair furniture and carpeted with a gay-colored material, were oil portraits of mine host's family; Mr. Horne looked stern, and his jet-black beard gave him avery formidable appearance; Mrs. Horne was solemn and the artist had attired her in a dress of the Elizabethan period, with high ruff about her neck and a strange coiffure; young Miss Horne had been presented with a sort of uncanny yellow hair, while the boy was made to look as unlike himself as possible.
    These works of art were painted on silk by a Chinese artist and were encased in great frames that made them appear more terrible than they really were. A cook who had been employed by the Hornes for many years returned to his native land to die or get married, present-day Jacksonville folks have forgotten which, and he carried with him pictures of the family for his artist friend to use in lieu of living models. Years passed and no word from the departed chef. But one evening the California stage brought a large roll consigned to Louis Horne; it contained the long-looked-for paintings. Streaks of white had appeared in the beard since Ah Chop went away; American ladies did not wear the Queen Elizabeth ruff anymore, and the girl's hair had assumed a more human hue, but in spite of these little oversights the whole town admired the curiosities. There was a great deal of discussion that night as to where the portraits should be placed so all could see.them. The parlor, with its uncomfortable chairs and huge sofa, was decided upon. Here they hung until the hotel was destroyed by fire and the Hornes moved to Arizona.
    The inn conducted by Mrs. Holt, who was a French woman with an Irish husband, was famous in its generation. Her last hotel, the United States, is still standing, but its only guests are crawling and creeping things and a few birds that nest upstairs. Mrs. Holt formerly controlled the Union House, but it burned and a more pretentious structure was erected. Before this building was completed, President Hayes and party began their journey up from California to visit Oregon. It was announced that they would spend the night in Jacksonville, and "The Madame," as all the townsfolk called the proprietress, got very busy and had a suite of rooms fixed up after a fashion in the new hotel.
    The workman had just completed the last bit of finishing when the President and the distinguished statesmen who accompanied him arrived. They were entertained in a way befitting the proud gold camp, and in the morning, when Senator John Sherman [It was General William Tecumseh Sherman.] complimented "The Madame" on her hospitality and asked what the bill would be, she calmly replied:
    "Seventy-five dollars!"
    "Why," replied the [general], somewhat miffed, "we do not want to buy your hotel."
    "Well," she answered in her broken English, "I thought the President could afford to pay a little more than common people."
    The bill was paid, "The Madame" presented Mr. Hayes with one of her photographs, and the guests started away over the Oregon road and Jacksonville saw them no more. And the suite of rooms in the new hotel was never again to bring $75 for a single night's lodging.
Young Beekman Rides into Town.
    Across the street from the United States Hotel is the old Beekman Bank. The first institution of its kind in Southern Oregon, there have been so many stories woven about it that, if collected into book form, they would make a large volume. The bank was started in 1856 by C. C. Beekman in a little building on the corner of Third and California streets; two years later [It was in 1863.] it moved across the way into the small frame structure in which the last trial balance was made and where the scales for weighing gold dust still stand on the counter.
    Beekman, a clear-eyed, handsome, fearless youth, rode into Jacksonville one day carrying express for Cram, Rogers & Co. His route was between Yreka, Cal., some 65 miles south, and the new Oregon mining camp. Men who carried express in the Western states during the early '50s were not selected for any ballroom attainments they might possess, and, although the young messenger had been reared and educated in the East, he was an excellent horseman, a good shot and could look a man squarely in the eyes and tell him where to go.
    Most of his riding was between the towns named, although he made a few trips between Jacksonville and Crescent City. Mounted on an excellent horse, with a mule carrying the heavy packages, young Beekman rode day and night, through all sorts of weather and in the face of every danger. By and by, Wells, Fargo & Co. took over the business of the smaller concern. Beekman continued with the new owners. He watched the Oregon mining camps grow; he saw large stores taking the places of the makeshift shops that had come in at the heels of the first miners; standing around the express office, he heard men talk about the need for a bank. One afternoon when he rode into town, there was another young rider with him--it was the new express messenger between Jacksonville and Yreka. C. C. Beekman was going to open the needed bank and live in the village.
    It is a strange-looking place, this old room in the rear of which is the sign:
BANKING OFFICE.
C. C. BEEKMAN.
    An L-shaped counter that looks for all the world like those seen in country stores forms an enclosure where the banker and his assistant worked. On the longer part of the "L" were the large gold dust scales, on which was weighed millions of dollars' worth of shining metal; some say $10,000,000 worth of gold was weighed on these scales and deposited in the stone vault close behind them; others will tell you $12,000,000, but no matter, this was the clearing house for the miners for many miles around in the days of Jacksonville's glory.
Many Time-Killers Kept Busy.
    Two benches, both made by the banker, who had worked at the carpenter's trade in California before becoming an express rider, are still in the room; one was put out in front of the institution soon after it was opened in the building across California Street, and it stood outside the bank during all the years that the concern continued to be a factor in the town's business life. Whittlers tested the mettle of their knives on it, and initials of men whose names were long since carved on marble headstones are still to be seen on the old bench, where they were put when their owners were boys.
    It was on this long seat that the men of leisure used to sit and wait for the stage to come in. This great event in village life over, they would sit and wait for the stage to go out. Could the ancient bench speak it might cause the rattling of many dust-covered family skeletons that have been kept in the dark for half a century, for men who have nothing to do but sit and whittle generally do a deal of gossiping while they rest. The other bench, which was more kindly treated by those who sat on it, was always kept inside the bank; here lingered the folks who brought dust to be weighed or who expected they would receive an express package someday from somewhere. Mr. Beekman served as the Wells-Fargo agent in Jacksonville from the time he gave up his riding until the day of his death, February 22, 1915.
    Back of the counter are spool cases, the kind you see in every small dry goods store, on which the number and color of the thread is marked on the outside of each drawer. [The cases have since disappeared.] In these cases were kept the various papers necessary in conducting a banking house. About the walls are hung signs and notices sent out by the express company, while outside the counter are rows of shelves filled with books printed in the long ago, and texts like those that were used by children in the Jacksonville schools who now have youngsters of their own in a thousand different schools throughout the country.
Squire Dox Keeps the Keys.
    A very strange key opens the door of the very strange vault, a key like those we saw pictured on the ring that Bluebeard carried through the pages of our fairy books when all the world was young. The key is now in the possession of Squire Dox, J.P., who was associated with Mr. Beekman in the bank for many years before it closed. But the squire does not suggest the delightful old murderer of Fairyland, for he is a bachelor. He succeeded his former employer as express agent, and once in a while is called upon to severely punish a careless auto driver who goes down Oregon Street faster than a walk; sometimes the squire is requested to unite in the bonds of wedlock the grandchildren of men whose gold dust was stored in the famous vault and whose knives helped decorate the historic bench.
    "I want you to know," said Justice Dox, as he closed the door of the building and put the keys away tenderly, as though they were something he loved, "a lot of the stories they tell about this bank aren't true. Of course, in the early days, banking in a frontier town wasn't conducted exactly as it is now in some of the big city banks, but it was done carefully and honestly, and if the patrons of all the money institutions in the country always get as fair treatment as the customers of the bank of C. C. Beekman received, things will move along nicely for everybody. Just the other evening----"
    But the squire never finished, for, looking across the street, he saw a young man clad in black and a beautiful young woman in a white dress with many little pink ribbons thereon go into the express office.
Evening Telegram, Portland, Oregon, August 14, 1916  Southern Oregon Historical Society Research Library MS1458


Editorial Association Visits Southern Oregon
and Comes Home Surfeited

(By Col. E. Hofer)
    The annual convention of newspaper men and women was held at Medford. It was a kind of weekend affair and lasted from Friday until Tuesday morning for many of the members. The programs were properly divisible into three great events--the entertainment at Medford proper, the side trip to Ashland and the California line, and the headliner to Crater Lake.
    At Medford there was royal hospitality. All the seven-score attending newspaper people were housed free and mealed free to a large extent. There were special gatherings for the ladies with skirt lunches at cafeterias, and skirt motoring where unruly and uncouth males were barred, and the ladies could chitchat and sip soft iced drinks to their hearts' content. The ladies of Medford are even more lavish entertainers than the men, and take a just pride in the metropolitan airs of their little city.
    The men folks and the women had rooms at the finest hotels and were even quartered at the University Club and the country club. The sessions of the newspaper profession were held at the Commercial Club rooms in the basement of the Carnegie library. The Medfordites carried things so far that tips were even refused from the visitors by the help all around. I did force a two-bit piece on a waitress at the Medford but it was when no one was looking and I covered it with my napkin and made the getaway. The proprietor tried to find the man who did it but none would acknowledge the coin. So the girl had to keep it. At the University Club the Jap boys returned all efforts to tip them. That was making guests of visitors to a nicety.
Taken to Ashland
    At four o'clock Friday all were taken motoring to Ashland, and were bowled up the Siskiyou grade over into California. It was a surprise to those who hear nothing but the Columbia scenic highway exploited up this way to see grandeur itself in the form of a boulevard that went to the real skyline and over the tops of the greatest range on the Pacific Coast--the perfect grade and the hard-surface road that winds into the empyrean--if that is not the term, excuse haste, for the drive made us dizzy--most of us went higher on gas than we had ever been before or will be again unless we soar in the final account of the Billy Sunday variety. The Siskiyou Boulevard has nothing like it in the world and is the real scenic highway wonder of the West. The thoughtfulness of the driest city in the state fortifying itself with a hard-surface road, good summer and winter, to a base of liquid supplies aroused the humor and curiosity of the visitors and both were gratified.
Ashland, Oh My!
    Ashland park was the scene of a feast of good things. The good people of the Lithia City had a big lunchbox for each visitor containing substantials, ham sandwiches, stuffed eggs, pickles, cake, fruits such as grow nowhere else, from a toothsome apple to a luscious peach, and hot coffee served by the prettiest girls in town. There was music in the air, Ashland spielers led by the chief ringmaster, editor Greer dilated on the wonderful winding drives, the great streams of running ice water, forty kinds of mineral waters springing from hillsides and grottoes, electric lights in the trees, a Christmas tree fifty feet high, tender young chickens done to a nice crisp that made your mouth water coming right up and asking you to bite them. Ashland was trying to put one over on Medford and pretty near did it while it lasted. But we all had to go back to Medford and they had more opportunities to show their talents as entertainers. Lithia Park is as near fairyland at night as we ever hope to see this side of the New Jerusalem, and as the location of the biblical fairy city is a little in doubt we would prefer staying in Ashland to the next world.
The Grand Climax
    The grand climax came at Medford where a banquet was served like all the rest, free to the guests, at the hotel which is the pride of the city and bears its name. Medford is the home of a retired metropolitan opera company, and some of the singers delighted the crowd with real Italian warbles, male and female voices, and then a young Medfordite tenor put it all over the foreign stuff with some solos that were a surprise. Young Mr. Vawter was the singer, and the ladies made him a matinee idol on the spot and wanted to hold the matinee all night. The speeches were what the French call au fait, very fitting, and midnight warned all of the need of cutting the strings. The morning call was fixed for six o'clock, and some got out at four and five and started for the famous Crater Lake motor trip of ninety miles.
90 Miles of Joy
    This was the third great division in the three-day feast of hospitality. More editors had arrived. There was a contingent of Washington newspaper men and some specialists from Chicago. Persons of coast and national reputation had been dragooned onto the scene, and this commandeering was done by president Brodie and secretary Bates. The state press association really begins to command the respect of the higher lights of the profession, and the smaller fish begin to feel proud of belonging to the organization. Between forty and fifty motorcars were requisitioned for the trip to the lake, 83 to 90 miles according to the way you drive, a mile straight up in the air by any road you take. There are not ninety miles of better road in the world, considering that more than half of it is through gigantic forests primeval such as Longfellow wrote about in his "Evangeline," and the rest is half of it along a beautiful mountain river, the rushing, roaring Rogue, continuous Cascades and shimmering deep blue waters winding through deep canyons.
The Gates of Hell
    The people of Medford and Jackson County deserve supreme credit for the fight they have made to throw this world wonder open to the world by building a motor-road to Crater Lake. The county built a good half, the state convicts about a quarter, and the federal government the rest of the way. The drive takes six hours going up and five hours coming down. There are waterfalls as high and some as beautiful as those along the Columbia. There is the natural bridge of lava, where the Rogue River makes a descent to what Sam Simpson would have called the gorge of Avernus--in plain English the gates of hell. You walk around on top of the river roaring under your feet. Soon the snowbanks appear and to the right and to the left of you lies the beautiful by the thousands of tons. As our Willamette Valley rains are dry mists, so this snow is not cold snow. It is purely ornamental, for the flowers bloom on its edges.
Had a Lady in Tow
    At the lake itself is the Crater Lake Inn, with Salem papers on file. It is a modern hotel, with great fireplaces, built on the edge of a precipice a thousand feet deep, hanging right over the lake, with every window commanding the wonderful scenery. At midday the lake six miles across is a great cup filled with ultramarine blue. You wonder at this depth of color, when the skies above may be light blue or even gray. Always the lake is the same deep, deep blue. The wonder ceases as you try to go down to the lake and find yourself engaged in a hand-to-hand, or rather foot-by-foot, struggle to climb down a wall a thousand feet deep. For such are the walls of Crater Lake--precipitous cliffs from one to two thousand feet high--and you look up out of it as you would if you were down in a well a thousand feet deep and of course you see a sky as blue as on a clear starry night and sometimes at midday you can see the stars. I did not see any stars, for I was manhandling a Portland lady of some size at the end of a pole she was hanging onto and letting out an occasional shriek when her feet would slip and she thought she was going to take the slide of her life when I should have let go the pole.
What the Sun Did
    The visitors pulled off a program at the Inn in the evening before a great roaring fire, in which Colonel Steel, the man who has made it the hobby of his life to make Crater Lake known to the world, gave all the scientific information, and great men among the editors did justice to the eighth wonder of the world. We were all dead tired and were to be up at four-thirty to see the sunrise on the lake. The entire party was up and the sight was equal to the expectations of the most exacting. We saw a perfect sunset and a perfect sunrise, had perfect weather going and coming. Southern Oregon was on her good behavior, and there is no part of the globe can act prettier and keep it up longer than right about Jackson County. To see the great blue lake gradually smile itself away into rainbow tints and lose its soul in a maddening blush of wine color, and then sink into the arms of night as she draws her curtains over the grandest panorama ever painted by old Dame Nature--well, it is only surpassed by the sunrise, and that is of a delicate beauty not to be described. There were some of the most beautiful women from every section of the state in the party, and the ravishing beauty of that sunrise made them all pale into insignificance.
The Business End
    A word about the editorial programs and discussions: They were crammed with the practical. The officers hit all the high places in the problems of the profession that its members meet up with day by day. The patent insides, the unjust libel laws, the price-cutters, the various deadbeats who practice on the profession, the practical value of the school of journalism, the offenses of yellow journalism and all the cranks and crooks of the profession--and what profession has not its weaknesses and troubles--were aired, fumigated and every attending editor whose ears were open and whose mind was not intoxicated with the dissipations of the over-hospitable people of Southern Oregon, came away with his money's worth tucked under his belt. The trip cost the average editor who attended fifty dollars a head, and that besides all that was handed him free made the show for three or four days well worth a hundred dollars per man, woman and child who attended. The convention broke all previous records and would not soon again be equaled were it not that the same officers continue on their jobs, and there is no telling what they will do next time.
Daily Capital Journal, Salem, August 12, 1916, page 7


600 MILES ON FOOT OVER
"THE HONEYMOON TRAIL"
TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA
in which an Everett bride, in letters to her mother, details the experiences of herself and her husband on a "hiking" jaunt from Puget Sound to the Golden Gate
    On Aug. 26 last Mr. and Mrs. Spencer R. McKern, who were married here July 25 last, left Everett on foot, carrying all their equipment in shoulder packs, intending to "hike" to California, wayside tramps. They arrived at Berkeley November 20, having walked more than 600 of the 900 miles separating Puget Sound and the Golden Gate. Through the courtesy of the mother of Mrs. McKern the Herald is permitted to publish the letters received by her from the wanderers during their trip. These are brimful of interest, sketching the country traversed and detailing incidents of "life on the road" as they found it--a queer mixture of unusual and commonplace happenings; of pleasant and not-so-pleasant incidents. These letters will appear in a number of installments of which this is the second.
Portland, Ore., Sept. 7, 1916.
Dear Mama:
    We arrived in Portland yesterday, about four days ahead of our expectations. Here's a little account of our trip so far: We left Everett Saturday and remained in Seattle until Monday, going then to Tacoma by boat. On the steamer we found Mabel and Nellie Earle, and had a good visit. Remained Monday night in Tacoma, and early Tuesday morning took a car to South Tacoma--and hiked from there; about 12 miles the first day. Then we got a lift in a wagon to Roy, and camped there that night.
    Started for Yelm the next day, but had hiked only two miles when Mr. Goodrich of Yelm came along with a truckload of cattle and took us to his home for dinner, where we had a fine visit. Harry Goodrich drove us down to Yelm in the afternoon. Mrs. Coates was looking for us and she made us right at home.
Wore Allie's Clothes
    While we were there we attended a reception to Mr. and Mrs. Warren Reese. I saw nearly everyone I knew, and everybody was lovely to us. Mr. Rees had just married and had just come to the pastorate of the church at Yelm. Allie Coates was not at home, so we missed her, but I wore some of her clothes at the reception.
    Friday we hiked 12 miles and camped overnight. Saturday we hiked eight miles and got a lift in a swell eight-cylinder Cadillac for 14 miles. It began to rain at Chehalis, so we went to a hotel. Rained nearly all Sunday, but we hiked to Winlock, 16 miles, and remained overnight at the hotel there. At Chehalis I saw Jason Nevin, a Normal acquaintance, who is also a Philo.
With the Furniture
    Monday we hiked two miles and camped in an extremely pretty place on the Cowlitz River between Vader and Castle Rock, where we met Hertha O'Neil's father and talked with him. Just as we were leaving Castle Rock a truck loaded with furniture came along and picked us up. The truck was from Tacoma, en route to Bend, Ore., and so we joined forces with the truckers and camped with them Tuesday night, and they brought us to East Portland yesterday. They were Mr. and Mrs. Sampair and Mr. Sam See. He isn't a Chinaman, in spite of his name. They were awfully jolly folks and we enjoyed the ride.
    It took us less than nine days to reach Portland. We were hiking altogether five days--actually hiking--and covered 85 miles in that time. The other 80 miles we rode when we were picked up along the way. We have located Jesse Cartwright, and will hunt him up. He has been looking for us, as there was an article about us in the Portland Oregonian, and he saw it.
Thought Bride a Boy
    I certainly am glad we are making this trip. It is loads of fun; we have met so many interesting persons and everybody has been so nice to us. Everybody wants to know all about our trip. The man in the Chehalis hotel and the woman in the one here thought was I was a little boy, and were pretty surprised when Spencer registered to learn I was his wife. I am feeling dandy.
----
Roseburg, Ore., Sept. 22, 1916.
Dear Mama:--
    We were in Portland from Wednesday until Saturday morning. Found Jesse Cartwright Thursday and he took us out to his home that evening for dinner, and persuaded us to remain over Friday to meet Fred Bennett, one of the Washington "U" fellows, and his wife, who were coming out to spend the evening. Jesse took us up on one of the highest buildings and showed us Portland and told us a lot of interesting history. We enjoyed our visit with these friends very much. Saturday we left Portland and walked to Oregon City, about 11 miles.
Pictures of Gypsies
    On the way we met a bunch of gypsies and took some pictures. They were traveling in three autos. There was a whole bunch of kids and they chattered like a flock of magpies. Oregon City is built on the river, in a canyon which is wide enough for only the business section. The residence section is built on high, rocky bluffs, and in one place they have an elevator to carry people from one street to the next. The next day we walked to Aurora, 12 miles, and camped in a grove over night. Monday we walked six miles, to Hubbard, and an auto picked us up and carried us to within one mile of Albany--42 miles.
Different Country
    Salem is a pretty place, and below it are hundreds of prune orchards. The country all through there is part prairie and part rolling hills, and is nothing like Puget Sound. We left the main highway at Albany for the one leading through Corvallis, as we wanted to see Oregon Agricultural College. We camped about half way between Albany and Corvallis. The next day we went on to Corvallis and visited the college. The grounds are not very pretty. They have better buildings and more of them than the "U. of W.," but it was rather dead-looking.
Meet Younger Everettites
    We walked 13 miles that day and were looking for a place to camp when Mr. Delano, state agent for the Maxwell car, passed in a new Maxwell and offered us a ride and took us into Eugene, 10 miles. On the way we passed an automobile party and somebody yelled: "Hello, Pete!'--and who should it be but Leonard Wood. He and his mother and brothers were in the other car. Leonard is attending McMinnville college this year and they were coming north from California to their old home. We had quite a visit there on the road.
Noisy Roundup Crowd
    It was too late to camp when we reached Eugene, so we remained at a lodging house overnight. There were a lot of cowgirls and cowboys in town for the roundup and we were afraid people might confuse us with them, but we hoped they would not, for the roundup crowd certainly was a noisy bunch. We decided we were getting along too fast and agreed not to accept any more rides until we reached Roseburg. We saw the Oregon "U" at Eugene and liked it very much better than Oregon Agricultural College. It has a prettier campus, although nothing like that at "U of W."
Sleeps in Straw Stack
    We hiked 16 miles from Eugene and camped in a school yard. There was a lovely straw stack near so we decided to sleep on it. The night was grand and the straw made the finest kind of a bed, but next morning after about six inches of dew had fallen, that straw stack was about the dampest place in the world. Had it not been for the poncho over us we would have been drenched.
    The next day, Thursday, we felt lazy, so we hiked seven miles and camped by a little stream near Cottage Grove. We washed our clothing and then went swimming in the afternoon. An old man who lived near saw us and thought we must be the ones he had read about in the Portland newspaper and came over to talk with us. He is a Civil War veteran and an old Indian fighter and he told us a great number of interesting experiences through which he had passed.
Had Heard of Them
    Friday we walked 14 miles and camped at Leona. An automobile party, from near Bellingham, going to California, stopped and talked with us, and said they had heard about us and our trip and had been looking for us along the way. A great many living in Oregon have heard about or read about us. The country from here southward is somewhat mountainous, although the mountains are low. We crossed the Calapooia Mountains Saturday, and reached Yoncalla, where Mrs. McKern, Spencer's mother, lived when she was a girl.
The Maternal Home
    We met an old timer here who had known her and the uncle with whom she made her home, and he directed us to the farm where she had lived. That night we camped in a grove of poison oak--but neither of us were poisoned. The oak is thick all about here, and is wonderfully pretty, On this day, too, we met Cecil Bell, another "U of W" graduate. Sunday we reached Oakland, 14 miles further south, and had a chance to ride to Roseburg in the mayor's car, but declined. Monday we walked 12 miles to Winchester and camped in an oak grove. Tuesday we reached Roseburg, and now are camped across the river from the town.
Advancing Too Rapidly
    We expect to walk all the remainder of the way to California unless some reason develops to cause us to change our minds. We can reach San Francisco by the middle of November if we don't ride another mile, and that will make about an 800-mile hike. We have discovered that the best distance for a day with our packs is 12 miles, and we prefer to hike from early morning until noon or 1 o'clock and then camp in the afternoon. We have had fine weather all through Oregon and probably will have good weather ail the way south.
----
Medford, Ore., Oct. 4, 1916
Dear Mama:--
    We have just reached Medford, where we will camp. Tomorrow we will reach Ashland. The Rogue River Valley is the prettiest country by far we have seen since leaving Puget Sound. We are getting up in the mountains and it is a little cooler. There was ice on our bucket of water this morning.
Daily Herald, Everett, Washington, December 27, 1916, page 6


600 MILES ON FOOT OVER
"THE HONEYMOON TRAIL"
TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA
in which an Everett bride, in letters to her mother, details the experiences of herself and her husband on a "hiking" jaunt from Puget Sound to the Golden Gate
    On Aug. 26 last Mr. and Mrs. Spencer R. McKern, who were married here July 25 last, left Everett on foot, carrying all their equipment in shoulder packs, intending to "hike" to California, wayside tramps. They arrived at Berkeley November 20, having walked more than 600 of the 900 miles separating Puget Sound and the Golden Gate. Through the courtesy of the mother of Mrs. McKern the Herald is permitted to publish the letters received by her from the wanderers during their trip. These are brimful of interest, sketching the country traversed and detailing incidents of "life on the road" as they found it--a queer mixture of unusual and commonplace happenings; of pleasant and not-so-pleasant incidents. These letters will appear in a number of installments of which this is the second.
60 MILES--
    Ashland, Ore., Oct. 7, 1916.
Dear Mama:
    We reached Ashland Thursday and will remain here until Monday. Spencer's mother wrote us that an aunt and an uncle reside in Ashland. Spencer had met his aunt and uncle, but had never met his cousins, so we looked them up, and we are certainly glad. One of the cousins is county superintendent of schools in Jackson County, and one of the girls is candidate for county superintendent of schools in Klamath County, and is confident of winning. They were just dandy and have made us so welcome. Monday we are going to start onward, but we will start early enough to eat breakfast with one of the girls who is married and who lives just a little way out on the highway.
Hospitable Ashland
    Ashland is the prettiest little town we've seen. It is such a comfortable little home town, and it has a natural park extending away back up into a beautiful canyon. The park has three mineral springs piped into it--lithia, soda, and artesian, with a sulfur grotto and a sulfur spring. They have automobile camp grounds, with a kitchen equipped with gas in which auto tourists may prepare meals. Each camp has a cupboard and a gas plate, and the rate is 25 cents a day for gas. There are electric lights and a sink and dish, etc. and outside are the prettiest little rustic tables and seats.
Troubles
    The day after we reached Roseburg we had a scrap with a fellow who owned some bath houses where we were camped. They do not want fires built because they are afraid of burning their oak trees--which wouldn't burn if one poured oil on them. This fellow wanted to show his authority and so he was rather disagreeable and we had a regular set-to of words. We didn't have much use for Roseburg after that until one day Spencer went over to town to get some "grub" and someone hailed him as "Mac" and came up and gave him the K. of P. grip and said O. C. Gaston, of Everett, had written the K. of P. lodge at Roseburg about us and wanted the lodgemen to look out for us.
Made Them Feel Better
    This man, Mr. Wimberley, who is a newspaper publisher, introduced "Pete" to a lot of Knights of Pythias, among them the Baptist minister, Rev. Eaton, who took us all over Roseburg in his car and out to his home to meet his wife, who is a bride. They gave us a big write-up in the paper that night--and we liked the town better after the cordial reception had taken away the bad taste of our earlier experience.
    It ts 74 miles to Grants Pass, and we made it in four days, hiking all the way except about 12 miles. That was pretty good hiking, I think--18 miles Wednesday, 13 Thursday, 16 Friday, and waited over until Monday. It rained Sunday, but we had a good camp, so we were comfortable and we had done five days' hiking in four.
    Monday we went onward. We enjoyed camping in Grants Pass. We camped in the auto grounds furnished by the city. There were many others camped there, and they were mighty friendly--so much different from the park atmosphere at Roseburg. We have been getting up into the mountains ever since leaving Roseburg, and the scenery is growing prettier all the time. From Grants Pass we've been in the Rogue River Valley. Nearly everyone has been simply splendid to us.
The Tourist "Print"
    We met a traveling printer who has been all over the country, working his way, and he was intensely interesting. We've noticed that those who have knocked around the most and had the most experience are the friendliest and most accommodating. The other day we climbed a mountain in the morning--about 1,500 feet high--instead of hiking, but it certainly was worth while. We found an old mine near the top. We could see for miles up and down the valley. There are some interesting stories about some of the mountains near here. Uncle Jim is an oldtimer, having lived here about 60 years, and he has told us many interesting things. In two or three days we will be over the mountains. It is pretty cold now because we are getting up, but as soon as we cross the California line it will be warmer again.
Not "Bad Mans"
    I certainly am glad we chose to come this way, for it is the best experience we've ever had, and I never remember feeling better. One of our odd experiences was at a little town, Gold Hill. There a little boy, about three years old, yelled at us: "Hello!" I answered him and he said: "Irene says you is bad mans. Is you?" I told him no, so he went on his way, very much relieved. We saw Irene, a tiny girl, in the store, and after looking us over she decided we weren't "bad mans" after all, and talked to us until we left.
----
Ashland, Ore., Oct. 8, 1916
Dear Mr. and Mrs. Professor:
    We've been thinking much of you, and so I've decided to tell you what a good time we've been having. We are stopping at Ashland for a few days. Spencer has an aunt and an uncle here and a lot of cousins he had never seen, and we are certainly having a family reunion. It's almost like getting home. We have had glorious weather nearly all the trip. Twice in Washington it rained so hard that we stopped in hotels. The nights here are pretty cold, as we are in the mountains.
Froze the Cow
    One morning we had a heavy frost, so that hydrants froze and there was a coating of ice in our water bucket and we had to thaw out the can of milk every time we used it, but as soon as we cross the Siskiyou Mountains we will be in warmer territory--and we will be there in a couple of days. Oregon certainly is beautiful, and the further south one goes the prettier it is. We thought it pretty around Salem where there are so many prune orchards, but when we reached the hilly Umpqua Valley, with its queer yellow hills and oak groves, we thought that was still prettier.
Incomparable Rogue River
    But none of them can compare with the Rogue River Valley. We hiked over mountain roads for more than a week, and every day we have seen prettier country than before. So many of the mountains around here are bare and yellow on the south slope and heavily timbered on the north slope. There are pear and apple orchards planted away up on the slopes. Yesterday Spencer and I climbed Pompadour Rock, about four miles from here. It is a rocky cliff on one side and a steep slope on the other, and is covered with sagebrush, poison oak, and manzanita. We had a fine view of the valley from the top.
Rattlers and Poison Oak
    We kept a sharp lookout for rattlers. Poison oak is thick all through Oregon. We've camped in groves of it, but we seem to be immune, for we haven't been poisoned. We have discovered that none need have any trouble getting to California. We could have gotten there in three weeks, without walking a fourth of the way, had we wanted to accept all the proffers of automobile "lifts" along the way. We don't want to arrive too soon, and we've turned down as many as five and six offers a day. There are hundreds of autos passing, and most of them will pick you up if there is room.
    In Washington a truck came along loaded to the gunwales with furniture, and with two men and a woman, and it looked as though it couldn't hold any more, but they stopped and picked us up and carried us into Portland. We had to pile in two deep, but it was lots of fun.
Everybody Helpful
    Everybody has been exceeding pleasant. The Portland Oregonian is circulated all through Oregon and so many have read of us, and have made it pleasant for us all along the way. We have met so many interesting persons, and those who have been around the most are the friendliest. I never felt so fit in my life as I have on this trip. This is certainly the life. We make camp early, sleep from about 7:30 p.m. to 6 a.m., eat as we always do in camp. There's one thing that somewhat peeves us: This is the inconsistency of the signs on the highway. When it's about noon and we've hiked 12 miles and we're getting "powerful" hungry and can't get lunch until we reach a town we hail with delight the sign that says: "One mile to town." But when we have hiked on for half or three-quarters of an hour and come to another sign that tells us again that it's "one mile to town" it's "sort o' discouraging," and we begin to doubt the existence of any town. We saw one sign that read: "277 miles from Portland." After hiking about five miles we saw another reading "256 miles from Portland." Those are fair samples of the "accuracy" of the signs along the highway.
----
Hornbrook, Cal., Oct. 10, 1916
Dear Mama:--
    It is now 2 a.m. Tuesday. We crossed the California line just a few minutes ago. We crossed the Siskiyou Mountains by moonlight, reaching the summit a little before midnight. This is written at the foot of the mountain on the California side, where we stopped, built a fire, and ate lunch. We expect to hike on into Hornbrook before daylight--a 20-mile hike tonight.
Daily Herald, Everett, Washington, December 28, 1916, page 6



Last revised January 13, 2026