The open valley of the Rogue River is forty miles long by about ten miles wide. (The estimate, it will be observed, does not include the long line of valley extending from Rock Point to the boundary between Jackson and Josephine.) From the foothills of Little Butte to Jacksonville the width is not far from twenty miles; but from this central point it grows gradually narrower each way so that the average is materially cut down and will not exceed the figures above named. The best and most important part of what is called Rogue River Valley is not Rogue River Valley at all, and no sane man, conversant with the facts in the case, could be induced for a moment to believe it to be such; the inconsistency of such a supposition is too glaring and its fallacy too plain and palpable. And, though it should be proved beyond a peradventure that this river was the feeder of the great lake which, at one time, occupied its site, it does not necessarily follow that [it] formed or even assisted in forming the basin or receptacle into which its waters were discharged; but, on the contrary, the lay of the valley, its altitude, together with the adverse direction of the river, must conclusively prove that it did not, and could not in any conceivable way or by any conceivable route or means form the great valley which lies to the southeast [of it]. It is not, therefore, properly Rogue River Valley. Mary's River--better known as Bear Creek--flows the entire length of the valley, issuing from the Siskiyous and discharging into Rogue River. This stream divides the valley as near centrally as could have been done by the most competent surveyor. Let us "render under Caesar the things which are Caesar's," and unto this river that which is due it. Bear Creek or Mary's River Valley, and Rogue River, so far as this little honor [sic] is concerned, must take a back seat. The same may be said of Dry Creek, Antelope, Butte and Sams Valley, not one of which could be strictly called a valley of Rogue River. While the lower part of Sams Valley might claim this honor the upper part must indignantly deny it, and a "house divided against itself must fall." At best, we may write Rogue River's claim to this valley is--doubtful. The valley of Rogue River, taken in the strict sense of the term, in comparison with the valleys above mentioned--though there are many rich and valuable farms along its bank--is exceedingly limited and unimportant. It does not represent a tithe of the fertile land of this noble valley.
    By examination it will be found that the valley, so far as regards its soil, is divided into three divisions. All that part of the valley lying east of Rogue River and north of Bear Creek may be included in division 1st. This division presents a peculiarity of soil not found anywhere else in the valley. Here we find the noted "big sticky," a tough, gluey and tenacious kind of clay and loam mixed. The nature of this soil is such as to adhere with incorrigible obstinacy to everything brought within its reach, and won't let go worth a c-c-cent. Almost every foot of the upland of this division, in times past--and not very remote either--was a barren desert incapable of producing the lightest vegetation. Its reclamation is of comparatively recent date, and may be attributed solely to the wash of the hills that bound it on the east. This supposition approaches certainty, and may be satisfactorily proven. 1st--by a comparison of the valley soil with that of the hills. Second--by the fact that a large area lying along Rogue River and reaching towards the hills is yet totally desert, the wash not having yet reached it. Third--the unusual susceptibility of the soil to the motion of water. The whole region from Reese Creek to the Siskiyous is more or less cut up with drains or niches; and in some places these washes are so numerous and deep that stock hunters, unacquainted with the passes, experience great difficulty, and not infrequently delay, in finding a practical crossing. Now if these ditches were only seasonal, or confined to any particular locality in the given distance, they might be regarded as proving nothing; but on the contrary, along every little hollow, inclination or watershed of any kind, [water] has made its mark; and some of these "marks" are eight to ten feet deep and six or eight miles long.
    This whole side hill, from opposite Phoenix to its termination on the desert, is one succession of slides, and some of them, even now, so well defined as to be distinctly observable at a distance of five or six miles. Should the Butte Creek Ditch, now talked of, ever be built it will probably cross this spur (of the Siskiyou) east of the rocky butte, hence along the south side in a southeasterly direction, crossing the valley somewhere in the vicinity of Ashland. There is no enterprise, unless of a like nature, that would so speedily develop the resources of the country as the building of this ditch if found to be practicable. This division of the valley, though regarded as less valuable for farming purposes than either of the others, the fact is due, mainly, to the great difficulty experienced in working it--it will "stick"; yet wheat, oats and barley, when the season is favorable for working this peculiar soil, yield well, the average of wheat being about seventeen bushels per acre; oats and barley thirty per acre. When any attention is paid to gardening, vegetables rarely fail, and this part of the valley, if any difference, is superior in this respect to the black loam lying south of Bear Creek. Fruit has never as yet been fairly tested; and though there are a goodly number of young and promising orchards here and there, but little fruit, comparatively, is grown in this division. The whole district is well watered, produces excellent grass, and offers every facility for an easily accumulation or growth of stock with little or no expense. It will be found that this fact alone furnishes the key to the prosperity and independence of the many sterling citizens of this section.
    Several years ago a vein or bed of coal was discovered in the foothills north of Bear Creek, but on account of the superior attractions of gold, it was only sufficiently developed to prove the fact that it was veritable coal; and being tested by some of the 'smiths of this place, was pronounced first-rate. A notice in the Sentinel, at the time of its discovery, gave it as "anthracite coal of a good quality."

Last revised December 17, 2013