Jackson County contains a larger area than the state of Massachusetts. In fertility, range of productions, climate and minerals, it is superior to that rugged state. But these are gifts of nature. Whether this will ever equal that in wealth, culture and influence is a problem to be solved by the people themselves.
    The county embraces eight thousand square miles extending across the Cascade Mountains eastward, including the lake region of Oregon. There are several large valleys in this county, the most prominent of which are the Klamath and Goose Lake valleys on the east, and the Rogue River on the west.
    Travelers on the stage pass through this region in the night, and are therefore unacquainted with its beauties by actual sight. The writer has passed through it three times, and although he had heard of its attractions, had no opportunity to behold them. The glimpses of it which the stage traveler catches do not disclose the best part of the valley.
    Mountain ranges define it on every side. The isolation is complete. But the valley is so broad that it produces no sensation of confinement. The southern boundary presents for the most part a precipitous barrier; on the other sides are gentle slopes, climbing to a great height, and rounded in verdant beauty. Some of these tops are clothed with grass of greenest hue, and some with giant firs, which in the distance look like shrubs. Anon, a bolder summit overtops the rest, crowned with spotless white.
    Between these towering ridges is spread out one of nature's fairest scenes. It is a broad plain intersected by the swift-flowing river, descending into it from the Cascade Range by a canyon of extraordinary wildness, through which it plunges with many a lofty leap. Into it from point to point flow the affluents which drain the adjacent vales, all bordered with deciduous and evergreen trees and oak openings, groups of trees and groves, with lordly pine and fir overtopping them with staid precision, [which] diversify the prospect. In various directions appear isolated hills, some of which from peculiarity of form are worthy of a nearer inspection.
    This valley is only a part of the area which may be properly designated the Rogue River region. There are other well-defined valleys which take their names from streams that empty into the river. All of these contain numerous settlements.
    The isolated position of these valleys naturally prompts the inquiry how they came to be so extensively settled. The wide range of production, ease of cultivation and genial and salubrious climate give the explanation.
    The capacity of the soil has been tested for twenty years. All sorts of grain, every variety of fruit known to the temperate zone, and some belonging to the tropics, grow and flourish here. Indian corn, so fickle in most places on the coast, is here a regular crop. Livestock was out on exhibition [sic], worthy of highest prizes. Splendid horses, strong, sleek, ponderous cattle, thick-set fleeces crop the rich pasture, and the ever-grunting swine is pushing snout into more redundant fatness.
    The climate is captivating. Some days in summer are very warm, but a hot term does not last long, and the mountains furnish delightful and very accessible retreats. The rains of winter are frequently suspended by cloudless skies, when sparkling sunshine and balmy breezes repel depression and make breathing a luxury. Rev. M. A. Williams, who has kept a meteorological record regularly for twelve years, reports a highly agreeable state of wind and weather, a remarkable equability of temperature, and a combination of climatic qualities which are highly favorable to health and longevity. Mr. Colver, who is known throughout the state, and knows it by intelligent observation, selected this valley for a home, after having traveled all the states of the Union, except two. He raises upon his splendid farm a great variety of fruits of delicious flavor, and regards the valley as able to compete with any agricultural region of the coast.
    Mr. S. D. Van Dyke, formerly a member of the Legislature, gives good reasons for a high estimate of the capabilities of this region.
    These are examples of views and opinions which are universally entertained by the inhabitants, and appear to be quite reasonable to strangers.
    The larger part of Jackson County lies east of the Cascade Range. The pass through the mountains presents some sublime views, mingled with some of nature's strangest freaks. Beyond it, on an elevated plateau among the mountains, is the "Dead Indian Country," which received its name from an occurrence which took place in the time of Indian hostilities. On this extensive tableland snow falls early and stays till May. But the grass grows under the snowy fleece, and when that covering is melted off makes amends for delay. The droves of cattle, which left the shortened herbage of the plains as the spring advanced and cropped the grass as they ascended towards the summit of the hills, wend their way in summertime through the pass and plunge into the luxuriant pasturage provided on that elevated plain. Thither not only the drovesbut the families also go and camp out for a season. Leaving artificial tastes at home, they seek natural luxuries. Putting an arrest upon fin and wing and hoof, and levying an income tax upon vine and berry bush, they luxuriate in the choicest gifts of nature. The mountain air exhilarates. Rest on the bosom of Mother Earth recruits exhausted energies. Communion with nature in her unprofaned haunts tends to independence of character and simplicity of life.
    Beyond this, on the lake level, is Fort Klamath, and six miles from it the Klamath Indian Reservation. Further still is Lost River and Goose Lake.
    Near the Dead Indian Country is Sunken Lake, a great natural curiosity. Mr. James S. Howard, surveyor of Jackson County, related to the writer some particulars respecting it, which he obtained by personal examination. It occupies a very lofty elevation, and exhibits with its surroundings a desolate scene. It must be fed by subterranean springs, since no viable stream, except rills from melted snow, ever enter it. Below it, and at a considerable distance from it, two streams glide away from it in opposite directions, one to Klamath River and lake, the other to Rogue River. If these proceed from this mountain reservoir, as is highly probable, they find their way out through subterranean cavities. The first view of it is very grand and thrilling. It discloses a chasm, like a vast excavation, in the depths of which the silent waters reflect the surrounding gloom. Perpendicular cliffs, like walls of masonry, rise from the water's edge and prohibit all access to it, except in two places, and the lowest point which overhangs the chasm Mr. H. estimated at 830 feet from the surface of the water. Its form is elliptical. The narrow diameter he reckoned at five miles, and the long one at eight miles across. The great gulf looks like the crater of a vast volcano, whose fires were extinguished by an irruption of water. And from this resemblance it is proposed to call it Crater Lake. A picture of this curiosity, probably the only one ever taken, is now on exhibition at Mr. Shanahan's in Portland. The painter, Mr. [James M.] Sutton, now a resident of Portland, estimates the diameter at five or six miles by twelve miles. But I must return to more utilitarian themes.
    As I was coming this way, men were looking northward. Here their gaze was divided. They were looking northward, and also towards the east. They were all looking for the locomotive. The announcement of a new railroad connection is received with enthusiasm. The California Pacific Eastern Extension Company propose to enter Jackson County near Goose Lake, send a branch track into this valley, and another to Ogden to connect with the Union Pacific. The Oregon Central will place this valley on the main coast line, and the new project will give it a direct connection through the transcontinental line, with the vast network of railroads on the Atlantic side. The prospect is very bright. These connections will undoubtedly be made, and all of Western Oregon and Washington, and the North Pacific Coast, will share in the benefit. Starting from Portland, travelers can then pass through to the Eastern States without change of cars, or being at the outset marked as way passengers, to be set down by a branch railroad, to wait for the train.
    The settlement of this valley is connected with gold mining. Mr. Colver's surveys led to the discovery of rich placer diggings 20 years ago. [Samuel Colver is not known to have any connection with the discovery of gold in Jackson County.] And the search for the precious metal in the surrounding mountains led to the discovery of gold quartz, silver, iron, lead and inexhaustible supplies of coal. Here are the ores of both precious and useful metals, and here is the coal to smelt them. Salt springs and medicinal waters also abound.
    A vast amount of gold has been lifted from its native deposits and carried out to enrich other localities--making the valley by so much poorer instead of wealthier. This seems to be the fate of mining localities. The yellow stream hastens to get away. It should be arrested, and made to irrigate the soil whence it first flowed. But no arbitrary law can effect this. The course which wealth takes is like the course of trade--it flows where it can be used and equivalents rendered for it. It is the old law of exchange and circulation, as inflexible as the law of nature. What the mining districts need, then, is an intelligent population, sustaining the institutions and promoting the ends of modern civilization, engaged in diversified pursuits, with cultivated tastes, happy families, attractive homes, and local attachments. Such a community manipulates the law of circulation within itself, as well as beyond. It keeps the golden stream meandering in every direction, sending off supplies on every hand, percolating the soil and distilling its drops like the dew.
    The foundations of such a society are laid in this valley. The men and women are here who helped to lay them, and now measure its course with joy. All honor to them! May they live to pluck the golden fruit!
    It is well that the precious deposits of this state have not all been extracted. Western Oregon is probably as richly endowed with valuable minerals as any portion of the globe of similar extent of surface, and no doubt the supply is inexhaustible. The introduction of varied industries will demand the extraction of these minerals, to be used at home or wrought for other markets.
    Western Oregon is beginning to feel the mighty movement of our age. She hears the locomotive blowing the bugle of a grand march. Its sonorous blast is awaking strange echoes in nature's solitudes. A few years of wise legislation, supported by intelligent and patriotic cooperation, will make her an empire in herself. Her three great valleys, interlinked by social and commercial, as well as political ties, uniting their advantages with those of the mountains and the sea, now invite an enlightened immigration to share in developing these inexhaustible measures.

    Yesterday we indulged in some general remarks about Oregon scenery. We now have something to say of a few of the particular scenes of much natural beauty or scenery in the southern portion of the state. At the store of Geo. W. Hillman, on First Street, above Morrison, can be seen two paintings, executed by an Oregon artist, named Sutton, which represent scenes in Jackson County. One is of landscape nature, and gives a pretty view of the noted Table Rock with the waters of Rogue River laving its precipitous basaltic base, and adjacent to it a portion of the valley which takes its name from the river. The artist, for one who may be termed an amateur, has done well, and yet it is no harsh dispraise to remark that he has omitted to present the beautiful and grand natural scenery he has attempted to the best advantage, or as a more experienced landscape painter would present it. Still, to those who have never seen the scenery in all its native beauty and grandeur, the painting will appear very well worth looking at or possessing.
    The other painting is of a large waterfall [Mill Creek Falls] near the head of Rogue River, far up in the rugged mountain gorge. The scene is splendidly wild. The falls are nearly one hundred and fifty feet in height, and the large volume of water leaps from the contracted rift above with one grand plunge into the seething basined chasm below. The deep and narrow mountain gorge, down into which the sunbeams radiate only during midday, is well delineated, and the artist discovers his manifest fondness for natural scenery in the fidelity with which he has treated the details of his praiseworthy picture--the rocks and trees and vegetation. It is singular that, although Rogue River Valley and the mountain regions for miles about there in every direction have been for twenty years explored and located and inhabited, these falls were discovered only a year or two ago. For years teamsters and travelers had passed over the road not more than half a mile from the verge of the great bold rock off which the waters plunge, and they had heard the tremendous roar which reverberated and echoed from the deep chasm into which these waters fall, but as it was known that the gorge was very steep and wild and narrow for a mile or more above, they all supposed the roaring and crashing sounds proceed from the angry torrent as it rushed and foamed down the river's rocky bed. But one fine day about two years ago, a teamster in hunting his stray animals wandered down into the gorge, and there discovered the falls. They are called, we believe, the Falls of Rogue River--a name at once appropriate and likely to last.
    A look at these paintings will well repay one for the walk from any portion of the city to Hillman's Art Gallery. There are likewise other sketches in watercolors and ordinary crayon in his collection of scenery in Oregon and in Washington Territory. The watercolor sketch of Snoqualmie Pass is a charming bit of art, well executed, and is worthy of a place among the art collections of our citizens.
Democratic Times, Jacksonville, September 2, 1871, page 1

    The following we take from the S.F. Bulletin of Sept. 15th. It is from the pen of Mr. Hugh Small, a gentleman of culture, who has recently visited this section of country:
Democratic Times, Jacksonville, September 23, 1871, page 2

    Table Rock Valley comprises that portion of country in Jackson County north of Rogue River, in the vicinity of Table Rock. The arable land contained therein is about equal to the Boise Creek Valley, in the same county; but being separated from the main thoroughfare, it has heretofore attracted but little notice. The expectation that the railroad will pass east of Table Rock has caused much excitement of late. Parties, mostly speculators, have gobbled up the best portion of the country. Yet there remains much good land subject to preemption or homestead.
    The time is not far distant when there will be extensive and valuable improvements in this part of Jackson County. It is contemplated to extend a water ditch of sufficient capacity for manufacturing and irrigating purposes from Hamar's ferry, on Rogue River, to the mouth of Sams Creek, a distance of about 25 miles. This done, it will open up to agriculture a large section of land which is now comparatively of little value, besides creating water power for mills and machinery to any extent desired.
    The timber upon the mountains, north of the valley, is not excelled in the state.
    Coal of excellent quality has been found in several localities, and is supposed to exist in large deposits; but little prospecting has been done, however, as yet, to develop that valuable mineral.
    Grazing is the principal occupation and yields better returns for the capital invested than any other employment.
    It is not necessary for me to say that Jackson County is the banner county this year for its yield of cereals, in proportion to the amount. Some corn in Table Rock Valley will compare favorably with the best crops in Iowa or Missouri.
    I think the climate in Southern Oregon much better than in the Willamette for those who have weak lungs. There is less cloudy weather in winter, and perhaps a few degrees colder. The summers are much like the Willamette.
    The White Sulphur Springs in Sams Valley (a portion of Table Rock Valley, situated at the west of lower Table Rock) possesses rare medical properties, and in time will be a favorite resort for invalids. The health has been excellent for the past year, very few cases of sickness having occurred in this portion of Jackson County.
    I would suggest to those who wish to try a different climate from the Willamette and escape from the rain and fogs there, and dread the severe cold of Eastern Oregon, to try this part of the state. All kinds of produce being abundant and cheap. Peaches, apples, pears, plums and grapes grow well here. Game in the mountains is easily captured, giving pastime to the sportsmen. Let me say, in conclusion, to those who are seeking homes, health or amusement, come and see us.
Democratic Times, Jacksonville, October 14, 1871, page 1