Those who have heard the accounts of travelers returning from Oregon and California can imagine the ideas I had of the personal character of the people with whom I would have to deal. They had been painted as rough, unrestrained and nomadic, generous while at the same time on the lookout for monetary gain. It was with these impressions that I went from Portland (a distance of 100 miles) to southern Oregon, the vast field of my future endeavors. I owe it to the truth, however, to point out that the facts far from corroborated my expectations. For ten years in Oregon and on the border of California, I have always found the people as civilized and sociable as the people of Canada; they equal or surpass them in activity and are at least as liberal. For example: the clergy and nuns travel on boats, railways and stages at half price, often for free. Everywhere they are the object of the courtesy and politeness of Americans, many of whom are not prejudiced. I am not speaking of religious bigots; they are always rude and intolerant. There are twice as many of them in Oregon as there are in California.
    It was November 23, 1863 that I took possession of the Jacksonville mission. The chapel was small, as was the assembly that came together for services. The
southern Oregon mission is 200 miles in length by 150 wide. As you see, it would make a vast diocese. You can see that the missionary must be a traveler, ordinarily covering one thousand miles in the space of a year, if he wants to visit his scattered sheep twice.
    Within a week, the missionary once traveled two hundred seventy-four miles
to minister to two dying patients.
     Here are some details on the Jacksonville mission: The main city of southern Oregon is incorporated; it is also the principal town of Jackson County; it is located on the edge of a beautiful valley and is the center of a district rich in mines, cattle and agricultural products. Its population is more than 1,000 souls; the rest
the county has 6 or 7,000. There are two churches in Jacksonville, the Catholic church and the Protestant church, and in addition several schools, among them St. Mary's Academy for  girls, under the direction of four Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Rich merchants, lawyers and even workers have beautiful  residences and shops. Two newspapers are published in Jacksonville, each following the colors of its political party.
     Sixteen years ago there was very little mention of the Catholic religion in these parts: no priest, no church, and only a small group of Catholics. Some priests from
Oregon and California visited while passing through the young village of Jacksonville and administered the sacraments to those who were there. In 1858 and 1860 Archbishop Blanchet also evangelized this colony as a simple missionary. In 1858, under the direction of His Grace, the Most Reverend Mr. Croke, now Vicar-General of San Francisco, built a small church under the patronage of St. Joseph. Although modest, it is well maintained. When decorated on holidays it is the glory of Catholics, and Protestants call it a pretty theater.
    Rev. Fierens, now Grand Vicar and Curé of Portland, administered St. Joseph parish for nearly two years, and all the old parishioners remember his zeal and piety.
François Xavier Blanchet, Dix Ans sur la Coté du Pacifique (Ten Years on the Pacific Coast), 1873, page 38

    ED. APPEAL: Since leaving Marysville, I have kept busy moving and working in our Temperance cause among the youth, and doing all in my power at the same time for the old folks; and we are having some encouragement and success. The Sons of Temperance have recently been effecting much good among the citizens in many of these northern mining districts. In some of the towns a most happy change is witnessed and acknowledged by all. Yet it is true that the great and effectual change can only be brought about by the proper training of the youth. And this will be done when the attention and judgment of our citizens can be fully reached, and aroused to action. The cause is really the great cause of the age--for intemperance is everywhere effecting results lamentable in the extreme--as is witnessed and admitted by all who are sensible and sober.
    Many of our liquor dealers, I am happy to say, show a willingness to encourage my work among the youth; and it is a rare thing to find anyone willing openly to oppose the object. I am happy to say the people are treating me with kindness and respect, and some of them show a thoughtfulness in affording a mite of pecuniary encouragement to the cause.
    The natural scenery in the northern portion of California is truly varied, and much of it sublime and grand beyond description. In the way of mountains, Trinity and Scott and Siskiyou are well calculated to leave large impressions. There are a number of beautiful valleys, too, settled and cultivated--grain, vegetables, fruit, butter, cheese, fowls, fine horses, fat cattle, sheep, hogs, honey--everything needed--nice families, smart children, and general good health. Mr. Redding, in Little Shasta Valley, told me he was the last bachelor left there. They are as nearly independent of everybody else in these valleys as any people I have ever seen.
    When in Little Shasta Valley, you seem to be near the base of the world-renowned Shasta Peak, though it would require some 25 miles travel to get round and up the accessible side to the pinnacle; and they say the ascent cannot be made this early in the season. This peak is now a grand sight towering as it does, in its snowy grandeur, above every object in the land.
    The Table Rock in this valley is a remarkable formation, having the Soda Springs near its base. [Waugh is relaying a false assumption.]
    In passing over the Siskiyou, the noted Pilot Rock lies on your right, and is said to be seen from the ocean. Crossing over Siskiyou Mountain, the Rogue River Valley opens on the vision in the distance, with its celebrated Table Rock, and other striking objects. The valley itself is delightful, containing many neat houses, fine farms, and orchards already bending under their loads of fruit.
    The road all the way from Shasta to Jacksonville, Oregon, is in fine condition; and to the sober, contented traveler is rendered a perfect pleasure ride--seated, as we are, in the California Stage Company's easy coaches, with horses well trained and spirited, and fine as care and money can make them; and with drivers sober, careful and accommodating. Indeed, the intelligent public traveling over this line cannot fail to be impressed with the fact that many thanks are richly due the company for the energy and pains they have exhibited in rendering traveling so easy, safe and rapid over such a country and such a distance. The heaviest portion of the road, I am informed, was constructed by the company with an enormous outlay of money--that portion, for instance, over the Scott Mountain--which is the greatest triumph in the way of road making in the state.
    My calculation is to return from this place, visiting the different settlements on my way down.
Marysville Daily Appeal, Marysville, California, June 18, 1863, page 3


Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, July 8, 1863, page 2


    Col. Drew, with an escort of thirty-three men, under command of Lieut. White, and a number of citizens of Jackson County, left Camp Baker on the 7th instant, for the purpose of exploring the country east and north of Mount McLoughlin, and for the purpose of finding a suitable situation for establishing a military post. Our first camp was on Butte Creek, fifteen miles from Camp Baker. Here Judge Prim came very near being bitten by a huge rattlesnake. This camp we named Rattle Snake.
    July 8th we camped on Rancheria Prairie, near the place where the Ledfords' party were murdered by the Indians in the spring of '59. The distance we came today was about twenty miles.
    July 9th we crossed the mountain on the trail taken by the Pathfinders in the spring of 1862, under command of Col. Ross, and soon come upon places where they had done considerable work, in the way of building bridges and sinking mining holes. Four miles from the summit, on the west side, we came to a beautiful lake, on the north side of which we camped. This is called Summit Lake, and is about four miles long. It reminded me somewhat of the description given of the "Lake of Como.'' The distance traveled today was about fifteen miles.
    July 10th we traveled down the west side of the lake and continued descending towards Klamath Lake Valley. From our camp at Summit Lake, to the foot of the mountain, it is about ten miles. We continued along the west side of the lake, traveling in a northerly direction, for about eight miles, and camped. The distance traveled today was about eighteen miles. In descending the mountain we occasionally caught a glimpse of the lake and valley below; the scenery was beautiful.
    July 11th traveled about twelve miles north and then changed our course to the east, across the head of the lake. Here we crossed a bridge over Martin's Creek, built by Col. Ross' party; eight miles further we came to Wood's River, where we camped.
    July 12th we had a fine mess of fish for breakfast; built a raft this morning and by eleven o'clock we were all on the east side of the river, safe and sound; four miles further and we came to the east side of the valley, where we camped on a beautiful stream of pure, cold water. Col. Drew crossed the stream and traveled down some four or five miles further, where they found La Lake's camp, but the old man was not at home. It appears from what we could learn from the Indians who were left in charge of the camp that they were holding a council of all the tribes in the valley east of where we were, making preparations for declaring war against the Pit River Indians. The Colonel continued his investigations down the east side of the valley until he struck the alkali soil, when he returned to camp.
    July 13th we have fish in "copious effusions." Mount Shasta could be seen very plainly from this point. It lay directly south of us. We traveled along the valley in a northerly direction, crossed several branches running into Wood River, the banks of which were high and dry, and camped in a fine grove of trees near the center of the valley. Here we left a number of men who had taken the mumps.
    July 14th crossed the head of the valley and struck an Indian trail running west over the mountain, and thinking that it might be a shorter cut through the mountains towards Rogue River Valley and that it might possibly connect with the wagon road, we ascended the mountain and camped about eight or ten miles from the valley. So far the trail has been very good.
    July 15th after following the trail a number of miles it gave out entirely and we traveled for some time on our own hook until we brought up all standing by a deep canon. We retraced our steps a few miles and camped.
    July 16th we continued our retreat in "good order." Our citizen friends, being anxious to return home, concluded today to take a shortcut and left us at the place we camped on the 14th. We have since learned that they had a hard time of it, and at last were compelled to beat a retreat and take the old road.
    July 17th we rested on our oars and caught fish.
    July 18th we turned our faces towards home and camped at the foot of the mountain.
    July 19th we crossed the mountain and camped on Lick Prairie.
    July 20th we reached Camp Baker.
    Klamath Lake Valley is one of the finest grass countries I have ever seen. The water is pure and cold; the fish are splendid. Game does not appear to be plenty at this season of the year. The soil is light and dry, and appears to be formed of pumice stone, of which the entire upper part of the valley is covered. The Indians are good looking, treacherous, bloodthirsty and thieving. They are a noble specimen of "Lo, the poor Indian!" Persons wishing to visit the valley should be very cautious and keep a close lookout for their "har."
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, July 22, 1863, page 2


Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, October 10, 1863, page 3


    Ed. Sentinel: Again, in the capacity of a correspondent, I indite you an epistle, from this fertile section of our unrivaled infant state.
    As much attention is now bestowed on this beautiful valley, by those who are in quest of a select and permanent homestead, and by those who are otherwise interested in the advancement of our flourishing settlement, to the former, if not to the latter, I trust the following observations may not be expressed in vain.
    The country which forms the subject of this letter is located upon the Coquille River, a beautiful tidewater stream, winding its circuitous course, in all the grandeur of Nature, in a westerly direction, through the ever-verdant and unsurpassed valley which bears its name, and flowing into the Pacific Ocean, north of Port Orford, in latitude 43° 84'.
    Prior to the year 1858 little was known of the vast and extensive resources which, in the valley and mountains of the Coquille, lie concealed from the world. In the year above named, an enterprising colony of Baltimoreans, in quest of homesteads on the Pacific's golden slope, upon the representations of those who had preceded them, directed their course and finally pitched their tents along the romantic and picturesque banks of this poetical stream. The unremitting and indefatigable toil of the past few years has fully convinced them of the wisdom of their first choice, and judicious selection of this valley as their future home.
    As the length of this article will admit of but few words, they must be "multum in parvo"; therefore, to begin and conclude:
    The principal advantages and inducements of this country, that first demand the attention of the inquiring emigrant, are, first: the proximity, by water, to the great
commercial metropolis of the Pacific Coast, San Francisco; secondly, its tidewater facilities, presenting a smooth and placid river navigable for vessels of large capacity for the distance of sixty miles, extending into the heart of the valley, especially of the present main settlement, thereby affording the benefits of an easy and convenient transit, the value of which those residing there can amply testify to; thirdly, the unparalleled fertility of the soil, the mammoth products of which, to be appreciated, must be seen; fourthly, the healthy and salubrious climate, made more agreeable by the gentle sea breezes, imparting vigor and animation truly delightful, and known only to those who daily enjoy it. As water is generally pure in all parts of Oregon, with few exceptions, it is preeminently so here, gushing in unrestrained violence in all its crystal purity as it leaps and tumbles from rock to rock, seeking the limpid and pearly-bed rivulet, to be conducted to larger channels.
    Fifthly: The lumber resources are here in all their variety, comprising, among the most prominent, in proper order of quantity and quality, the myrtle, maple, ash, red and white cedar, white, red and yellow fir, yew, manzanita, madrone, spruce, etc., etc. The country abounds in cedar in all its different phases, and at convenient distances from admirable water powers contiguous to the main river. Of the high order and value of the unrivaled myrtle, the public need not be reminded. On this department of our country's wealth, alone, an entire volume could be written.
    Coal of a superior quality has been discovered in different localities. Gold of a very coarse grain has for some years been successfully and profitably mined, at the mouth and on the source of this river. No country in the world can rival this as a berry-bearing land, the hillsides of which for miles are literally strewn with the most delicious of this enticing fruit--blackberries, whortleberries (red, black and blue), salmonberries, raspberries, salalberries, serviceberries, and strawberries comprising the most important varieties.
    Game abounds in the mountains and prairies in superabundance, among which the far-famed elk, in all their glory, rank foremost. With fish of numerous varieties in the streams to suit the palate of any epicure, and, in the spring and fall of the year, the immense hordes of wild geese, swans, ducks, etc., that congregate on the lower river, I might well exclaim, where is the country to excel this? or with equal justice ask, where is the land as favored with Nature's choicest blessings?
    As the communication with San Francisco by sea has been so convenient, little attention has been directed towards a wagon road communication with the Umpqua Valley. Recently, however, some efforts are being made to convince the public of all classes of the inestimable importance of this laudable enterprise. As but 30 miles of the proposed route require the construction of a road, acknowledged by all to be so valuable an acquisition to Southern Oregon, which the "Coquillians," with their limited wherewithal, or pecuniary aid, cannot adequately accomplish, amply would its construction and transit repay the investment of corporation capital.
    A further continuance of this letter may exclude the publication of other valuable matter. I am, therefore, constrained to add a concluding remark: To those who entertain the slightest distrust of the veracity of the preceding article, I would advise them in all candor and disinterestedness to visit this section and satisfy themselves, pro or con.
    Should there be any displeased with the great resources Providence has so lavishly bestowed, only a portion of which are so laconically enumerated in the foregoing, I would console myself with the droll reflection that there are many who, were they installed in Paradise, would, in a complaining voice, solicit a description of the Eternal Regions.
Oregon Sentinel, Jacksonville, October 31, 1863, page 4

Last revised May 15, 2023